THE 


STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK 


GUIDE  TO  PARTY  CATERING. 


IN  FIVE  PARTS. 


PART  i.— HOTEL   STE WARDING  AND  COMPOSITION 
OF  BILLS  OF  FARE. 

PART  2.— RESTAURANT  STEWARDING  AND  PUBLIC 
PARTY  CATERING. 

PART  3.— CATERING  FOR  PRIVATE  PARTIES,  AND 
HEAD  WAITERS  AND  THEIR  TROOPS. 

PART  4.— A  DICTIONARY  OF  DISHES  AND  CULINARY 
TERMS  AND  SPECIALTIES. 

PART  5.— HOW  TO  FOLD  NAPKINS. 


JESSUP  WHITEHEAD. 


FOURTH  EDITION. 
CHICAGO. 

JESSUP  WHITEHEAD  &  CO,,  PUBS. 

1899. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress  in  the  Office  of  the  Librarian,  at  Washington,  by 
JESSUP  WHITEHEA.D,  1887  and  1889. — All  rights  reserved. 


LIBRARY 

UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA* 
SANTA  BARBARA 


PREFACE. 


In  the  preparation  of  this  volume  my  aim  has  been  to  supply  just  such  a 
book  as  I  wished  for  myself  when  I  was  a  beginner  in  hotel  employment  and 
feaw  how  much  there  was  before  me  to  learn  before  I  could  reach  the  paying 
positions.  It  has  fallen  to  my  lot  to  be  the  first  to  write  down  what  have  hitherto 
been  the  unwritten  rules  of  hotel  management;  as  the  hotel  system  of  this  coun- 
try is  advancing  and  expanding,  I  have  looked  upwards  and  not  downwards  for 
my  examples;  and  I  beg  the  reader,  who  may  find  some  things  contrary  to  his 
preconceived  notions  of  hotel  interiors,  to  note  that  I  have  not  made  the  mistake 
of  imagining  that  I  had  to  invent  a  code  or  system,  but  have  only  had  to  state  the 
facts  as  they  exist  already;  the  expressions  of  opinion  or  advocacy  of  special  rules 
are  but  the  links  to  make  the  whole  plan  coherent,  where  otherwise  it  would  be 
broken  by  the  difference  in  practice  of  different  hotel-keepers.  It  is  due  to  those 
who  will  disagree  with  me  on  some  points  to  admit  that  my  friends,  the  editors, 
who  have  published  some  of  the  matter  serially,  found  some  statements  BO  op- 
posed to  their  previous  ideas  they  even  hesitated  to  print  them;  the  doctrine 
which  they  seemed  to  think  most  monstrous  is  that  laid  down  in  "  The  Steward 
and  His  Management  of  Help,"  beginning  at  the  bottom  of  page  23.  Perhaps 
they  read  it  hastily  or  misconstrued  it.  Though  not  too  dogmatical  to  review  my 
own  work  and  reconsider  it,  I  have  not,  after  a  year's  interval,  found  a  word  to 
change,  and  have  in  the  same  time  passed  through  experiences  with  two  hotel 
keepers  which  showed  that  they,  at  least,  did  not  misunderstand,  and  the  rule  is 
sound,  always  premising  that  the  incoming  man  is  a  real  steward  and  is  com- 
petent. It  is  a  formal  investment  of  the  steward  with  his  authority  that  is  advo- 
cated, the  old  and  efficient  hands  do  not  really  leave,  they  are  trained  to  the  sys- 
tem and  bow  and  accept  the  new  dictator.  The  "clean  sweep"  business  is 
named  in  connection  with  corruption  and  misdoing.  Let  us  suppose  a  case — or 
call  it  reality  if  you  will:  A  man  is  sent  for  by  a  hotel  proprietor  to  be  steward, 
and  the  proprietor  says:  "My  help  all  seem  to  be  unmanageable;  they  are  in- 
subordinate, noisy,  quarrelsome,  independent,  insolent;  I  want  you  to  change  all 
this;  it  is  injuring  my  business."  The  new  steward  finds  a  too-good  barkeeper,  a 
pet  of  the  proprietor,  too,  is  giving  the  hands  whisky,  and  this  ill-advised  liberal- 
ity with  his  employer's  property  is  making  the  barkeeper  the  most  popular  man 
in  the  house,  but  is  keeping  the  hands  half  drunk  and  unmanageable.  All  the 
power  the  steward  has  over  the  barkeeper  is  to  notify  him  not  to  treat  his  hands 
any  more,  but  that  does  not  help  much,  for  his  hands  are  then  sulky  and  sullen, 


li  PREFACE. 

his  bitter  enemies.  That  is  the  time  for  a  "clean  sweep,"  or  else  the  steward  must 
back  down  and  leave.  In  another  place  it  may  be  a  colored  girl,  my  lady's  pam- 
pered and  bejewelled  maid,  who  is  the  power  behind  the  throne;  who  orders  the 
cooks  and  sends  the  waiters  away  on  errands,  and  the  new  steward  finds  that 
when  he  gives  his  directions  the  help  all  look  to  the  pet  maid  to  see  whether  they 
are  to  obey  him  or  not.  If  the  decaying  proprietor  of  such  a  declining  business 
»s  this  symbolizes  wants  reform  there  must  be  a  "clean  sweep,"  not  necessarily  of 
ihe  maid,  too,  but  new  hands  must  come  in  who  have  not  learned  to  look  that 
way  for  orders. 

In  short,  I  have  entertained  the  idea  of  writing  this  book  for  years  past,  and 
made  observations  accordingly  so  extensive  and  thorough  as  to  be  able  to  claim  a 
full  preparation  for  the  task  before  it  was  undertaken.  The  interior  of  a  large 
hotel  is  not  a  place  of  pleasure  for  the  employes.  All  the  heads  of  departments 
are  autocrats  in  their  sphere  if  they  are  good  men ;  if  they  are  bad  men  they  may 
be  tyrants. 

In  regard  to  the  dictionary,  which  will  commend  itself  at  a  glance,  it  only 
needs  to  be  said  that  in  the  anticipation  that  it  will  find  a  welcome  not  only  among 
hotel  stewards  and  c/iefs,  but  among  diners-out,  bons-vivants,  club  men,  restaura- 
teurs, printers  who  set  up  bills  of  fare,  editors  with  gastronomical  proclivities,  and 
the  polite  world  in  general,  I  have  made  it  as  light  reading  as  was  practicable,  by 
embodying  the  brightest  and  best  paragraphs  on  every  subject  .in  turn  by  the  best 
writers  wherever  they  could  be  found.  This  is  the  dictionary  of  that  peculiar 
culinary  language,  which  is  not  to  be  found  in  the  regular  dictionaries  of  any 
tongue,  however  complete  otherwise;  it  is  the  language  of  epicurism  and  of  the 
table. 

Possibly  the  practice  which  has  prevailed  for  some  time  of  interpolating 
poetical  quotations  in  the  bill  of  fare  might  be  improved  by  the  introduction  of 
informatory  paragraphs  about  some  special  kind  of  game,  fish,  or  novelty  in  sweets, 
turning  the  attention  of  those  who  dine  upon  one  leading  feature  of  the  dinner  by 
giving  an  intimation  of  its  quality,  its  rarity,  its  merits,  its  relation  to  literature,  its 
origin.  Suitable  quotations  of  that  kind  will  be  found  abundant  in  this  volume. 
They  might  be  accredited  to  "The  Epicurean  Dictionary,"  which  will  be  fair  and 
impartial  to  all,  for  it  has  been  found  neither  expedient  nor  even  possible  to  name 
the  authors  whose  words  are  placed  in  quotation  marks  herein ;  some  of  them,  it  is 
true,  belong  to  the  most  famous  names,  but  the  greater  part  are  the  words  of  un- 
known contributors  to  current  literature  whose  terse  sentences  offered  the  briefest 

explanation  of  the  subjects  named. 

J.W. 


CONTENTS. 


THE  HOTEL  STEWARD  AND  HIS  DUTIES.— The  Steward  Out  of  Fash- 
ion.— A  New  Class  of  Stewards.— Stewards  of  Other  Days.— "The  Evil  Which 
Men  Do  Lives  After  Them." — The  Pernicious  Commission  System. — Some- 
thing Less  Manly. — A  Specimen  Letter. — The  Steward  the  Superior  Officer. 
—The  Steward  Deals  Only  With  the  Head  Men.— The  Steward  as  Buyer.— 
The  Steward  Puts  In  His  Fancy  Work. — All  Stewards  Carve. — Assistant 
Carvers.— The  Steward  and  the  Bill  of  .Fare.— The  Steward  Who  Does  Not 
Know. — The  Steward  Is  the  Overseer  First  and  Last. — The  Steward  as  a 
Worker. — The  Steward  Manages  the  Meats. — Stewards  Needed  Everywhere. 
— The  Steward  and  the  Landlady. — The  Steward  and  the  Housekeeper. — The 
Steward  and  the  Headwaiter. — The  Steward  and  His  Adversaries. — The 
Steward  and  the  Storekeeper. — The  Steward  and  His  Store-room. — The 
Steward  and  the  Care  of  Meats. — The  Steward  and  His  Management  of 
Help.— The  Steward  and  the  Hands'  Pay-Day.— The  Steward  and  the  Clerks. 
— The  Steward  and  the  Proprietor. — The  Inside  Steward's  Special  Duties. — 
The  Wine-room  Steward's  Special  Duties. — The  Steward  and  the  Dairy. — 
The  Steward  and  the  Dish-room. — The  Steward  and  His  Workshops. — When  * 
the  Steward's  Good  Time  Comes. — Who  Shall  Be  Stewards? — Promote  the 
Good  Cooks Pages  3  to  30. 

STOREKEEPING  AND  BOOK-KEEPING.— How  Stores  Are  Issued  and 
Charged. — Blank  Requisitions. — The  Storekeeper  Must  Rise  Early. — Store- 
room Hours. — The  Store-room  Issue  Book. — Example  of  Written  Book  (pages 
34-35) — Mammoth  Requisition  List  Showing  All  Articles  Needed  In  Hotels 
(page  36). — Pastry  Requisition  of  Same  House  (page  37). — Largest  Form  of 
Issue  Book  and  Grand  Total  of  All  Departments  (pages  38-39)  — The  Same 
by  a  Simpler  System  (pages  40-41).  Changing  Cooks  in  a  Large  Hotel. — 
How  the  New  Chef  Begins  His  Duties. — The  Drinking  Habits  of  Cooks. 
Pages  30  to  45. 

HOW  TO  WRITE  THE  BILL  OF  FARE.— The  American  Hotel  Dinner  Bill 
the  Standard. — The  Hotel  Press  and  Recent  improvements. — Bill  of  Fare  or 
Menu? — Headings  or  No  Headings? — What  Should  the  Headings  Be? — Serv- 
ing Potatoes  With  Fish.— Always  Serve  Fish  On  Small  Plates.— Which  First, 
Joints  or  Entrees? — Three  Royal  Examples. — The  Place  for  the  Cold  Meats. 
— Current  Criticisms. — A  Representative  Italian  Bill  of  Fare. — The  Dinner 
In  Courses. — The  Sorbet  or  Punch. — Those  Everlasting  Relishes. — Specimen 
Bill  of  Fare. — How  Many  Dishes? — One  Soup  or  Two? — How  Many  Kinds  of 
Fish? — How  Many  Entrees? — How  Many  Vegetables? — How  Many  Kinds  of 
Pastry? — Conclusions  In  Regard  To  the  Dinner  Bill. — Lunch  and  Dinner  or 
Dinner  and  Supper? — How  Much  for  Lunch? — What  Sort  of  Dishes  for 
?  —  The  Breakfast  Bill  of  Fare. — Specimen  Breakfast  Bills. — About  the 

(iii) 


Iv  CONTENTS. 


American  Breakfast.  —  A  Small  Pattern,  But  Sufficient.  —  The  American  Sup- 
per or  Tea.  —  Rising  Equal  to  the  Emergency.  —  Combination  of  Dinner  and 
Supper  With  Newly  Printed  Bills  Each  Day.  —  List  of  Dishes  for  Breakfast 
and  Supper  Bills  ............................................  Pages  45  to  76. 


RESTAURANT  STEWARDING.—  Comparison  of  the  Hotel  and  Restaurant  Sys- 
tems. —  The  Rise  of  the  Restaurant.  —  A  Typical  American  Restaurateur.  —  The 
Restaurant  Steward  and  the  Market  Men.  —  How  to  "Stand  In"  with  the  Market 
Men.  —  Keeping  Provisions.  —  A  Specimen  First-class  Restaurant  Bill  of  Fare. 

—  A  Few  Entrees  and  a  Little  Management.  —  The  Merchants'  Lunch  House 
and  Bill  of  Fare.  —  The  Bakery  Lunch.  —  The   Place  and  not  the  Man.  —  The 
Man  and  not  the  Place.  —  The  Bar-room  Free  Lunch.  —  A  Russian  Restaurant. 

—  The  Oyster  and  Fish  Restaurant  and  Bill  of  Fare.  —  How  the  Pay  is  Col- 
lected.— The  Common  Meal  Check.—  The  Written  Order  Check.—  The  Hidden 
Watch  System.  —  The  Great  American  Restaurant  System.  —  The  Bouillons- 
Duval  System.  —  Spiers  and  Pond's  London  Restaurant  System,  pages  7610  100. 
The  London  Check  System  ......................................  Page  202. 

American  Hotel  Check  System  ...................................  Page  203. 

CLUB  STEWARDING  AND  CATERING.—  About  Clubs  in  General.—  Part/ 
Catering.  —  Mistakes  in  Entertaining.  —  Rules  for  Party  Catering.  —  Some  F,r- 
ceptions.  —  Ball  Suppers.  —  How  to  Set  the  Tables.  —  Small  Tables.  —  Whafr,  to 
Set  Upon  Them.—  Difference  in  Cost  of  Suppers.  —  Quantities  and  Qualities.  — 
What  Decorated  Meat  Dishes  Consist  Of.  —  What  the  Ornamental  Baskets  of 
Cake  Contain.  —  What  the  Moulded  Ices  and  Jellies  Are.  —  Setting  Long 
Tables.  —  When  They  Dance  in  the  Dining  Room.  —  The  Stand-up  Supper.  — 
The  Bazar  Supper.  —  The  Handed  Supper.  —  The  Ornamental  Handed  Supper 
..........................................................  Pages  100  to  117. 

:E>.A_:R,T  in. 

CATERING  FOR  PRIVATE  PARTIES.—  Large  and  Small  Catering  Busi- 
nesses. —  Lady  Caterers.  —  More  Rules  for  Stewards  and  Caterers.  —  Ball  Supper 
for  200.  —  Provisions  and  Materials  Used.  —  A  Young  Lady's  Birthday  Recep- 
tion for  50.  —  Snow-bound  Dinner.  —  Church  Festival.  —  Club  Reception.  —  Cold 
Lunch  for  300.  —  Private  Reception.  —  Experience  of  an  English  Manager.  — 
Dinners  at  Various  Prices.  —  Base  Ball  or  Cricket  Lunches,  Various  Prices.  — 
A  Quotation  Menu  ........................................  Pages  125  to  135. 

FANTASIES  OF  PARTY  GIVERS.—  A  Pink  Dinner  in  Washington.—  A 
Yellow  Dinner  in  Boston.  —  A  White  Dinner  in  London.  —  A  Violet  Supper.  — 
A  Dinner  in  Scarlet  and  Black.  —  A  Pink  Rose  Dinner.  —  A  White  Lily  Din- 
ner. —  A  Mermaid  Dinner.  —  Crowns,  Stars  and  Diamonds.—  The  Plateau.  — 
Changing  Fashions  in  Wine  Glasses.  —  A  Figurative  Dinner.  —  A  Vari-colored 
Dinner  in  Buffalo.  —  A  Tropical  Dinner  in  New  York.  —  Fish  Dinners  in  Paris. 

—  French  Dinner  Table   Decorations.  —  Imitating  Lucullus.  —  Royal   Soup.  — 
The  Same  Idea  With  a  Purpose  In  It.  —  Floral  Decorations  at  President  Ar- 
thur's State  Dinners.  —  President  Cleveland's  Table.  —  Floral  Decorations  at  the 
Princess'  Ball.—  Tens  of  Thousands  of  Flowers.  —  Decorated  Dishes  at  Mrs. 
Vanderbilt's  Reception.  —  Mrs.  Vanderbilt's  Diamond  Ball.  —  The  Progressive 
Dinner  Novelty.—  The  Lady  Had  a  New  Idea.—  Couldn't  "Call  Off"  the  En- 
trees. —  Notions  In  Silver.  —  The  Vienna  Coffee  Fashion.  —  Different  China  for 


CONTENTS. 


Each  Course.  —  Candles  and  Glass  Shades.  —  Notions  in  Ices.  —  Changing  Dec- 
orations for  Each  Meal.  —  A  Boating  Club's  Fantasy.  —  Scene  Painted  Ball 
Suppers.  —  Sea  Caverns  and  Fairy  Grottoes.  —  A  Sea  Shell  Dinner.  —  A  Wed- 
ding Banquet.  —  Grand  Wedding  Receptions.  —  Wedding  Breakfasts  and  the 
Prices  Charged.  —  Eight  Specimen  Menus.  —  Something  About  the  Cost.  —  Ten 
Dollars  per  Plate.  —  Five  Dollars  per  Plate  Without  Wine.  —  Six  Dollars  With 
Wine  at  the  Cafe  Royal.—  Two  Dollars  Without  Wine.  —  A  Ten-dollar  Meal 
for  Five  Dollars.  —  Dinners  at  Thirty  Dollars.  —  Temperance  Catering.  —  Tipsy 
Fruit  at  a  Temperance  Banquet.  —  Prohibitionists  and  Fashionable  Cookery.  — 
Too  Rich  for  His  Blood.  —  Sarcastic,  But  Suggestive  .........  Pages  135  to  157 

STEWARDING  AND  CATERING  ON  A  GRAND  SCALE.—  Stewarding  at 
Harvard  University.  —  At  Vassar  College.  —  At  Windsor  Castle.—  At  a  Peni- 
tentiary. —  Steamship  Stewarding.  —  Purchasing  for  a  Large  Hotel.  —  The 
American  Game  List.  —  Lunch  .for  5,600  people.  —  The  American  Clam  Bake. 

—  How  It  Is  Done.  —  The  American   Barbecue.  —  The  Improved  Barbecue.  — 
The  Primitive  Barbecue.  —  An  Electric  Lighted  Barbecue.  —  How  an  Ox  Was 
Boiled  Whole.  —  The   Number,  Weights   and   Price  for  3,000.  —  The  French 
Governmental  Banquet  to  3,000  Mayors.  —  A  Railway  Eating  House  in  Sweden. 

—  Breakfast  for  10,500  people.  —  Catering  at  the  Manchester  Exhibition.  —  Hov\ 
30,000  Children  Were  Fed.  —  Catering  for  the  Multitude.  —  Stewarding  for  the 
Sultan.  —  The   Army   Hospital   Steward.  —  Exposition   Catering.  —  Catering  at 
the  Piedmont  Exposition.  —  Training  a  Storekeeper.  —  The  Store-room  Stock 
Book  .....................................................  Pages  157  to  184. 

THE   HEADWAITER    AND    HIS   TROOPS.—  The   Headwaiter.—  The   Head- 
waiter's  Importance.  —  The  Headwaiter  Does  No  Waiting.  —  Scarcity  of  Good 
Headwaiters.  —  The  Foreign  Headwaiter.  —  In  American  Hotels.  —  Organizing 
the    Troops.  —  Waiter's   Uniforms.  —  Telling   Off   the   Watches.  —  Watch   On, 
Watch   Off.  —  Let  the   Headwaiters   Tell   It.  —  Another   Headwaiter  Talks.  — 
'  What  the  Dining  Room  Chief  Talks  About.  —  Waiters  Drill  for  a  Banquet.  — 
Who  Are  the  Best  Waiters?  —  Waiters'  Wages   and   Tips.—  Cherubs   at   the 
Hotels.  —  Rough  on  the  Waiters.  —  London  Waiters.  —  Paris  Waiters.—  Disci- 
pline  in    Paris  Restaurants.  —  Accommodating  Waiters.  —  Tricky   Waiters.  — 
Berlin   Waiters.  —  A  German   Baron  Waiter.  —  How  Waiters  Fight  Duels.  — 
Female  Waiters.  —  New  York  Waiter  Girls.  —  A  Dining  Room  Juno.  —  The 
Pennsylvania-Dutch  Waitress.  —  The  Mischief  of  Pretty  Waiter  Girls.—  Girls 
on  a  Strike.  —  Another  Strike  of  Waitresses.  —  Respect  Instead  of  Money.  — 
Colored  Waiters.  —  Trcubles  Common  to  All.  —  The  Tyranny  of  the   Chef.  — 
Another  Trouble.  —  A  Few  Types  of  Waiters.—  Just  a  Plain  Waiter.  —  A  Wait- 
ter's  Valentine.  —  A  Waiter's  Wife.  —  A  Treasure  of  a  Waiter.—  Waiters'  Christ- 
mas ......................................................  Pages  184  to  218. 

:e>.A.:EtT  iv. 

IN  THE  DICTIONARY  OF  DISHES  will  be  found  under  the  respective 
letters  —  Consommes.  —  Drinks.  —  Egg  Cookery.  —  German  Cookery.  —  Greek 
Cookery.  —  Ices.  —  Italian  Cookery.  —  Jewish  Cookery.  —  Mexican  Cookery.  — 
Oriental  Cookery.  —  Potages.  —  Sauces.—  Soups.  —  Spanish  Cookery.  —  Scottish 
Cookery,  Etc.,  Etc  ............  .  ............................  Pages  219  to  464. 


SERVIETTES   AND    HOW   TO   FOLD   THEM,   fully   illustrated,    Appendix, 
..............................................................  Pages  i  to  29. 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


HOTEL  STEWARDING 


SHOWING  THE  INTERNAL  WORKINGS  OF  THE  AMERICAN 
SYSTEM  OF  HOTEL  KEEPING. 


THE    STEWARD'S    DUTIES 

IN    DETAIL   AND    IN    RELATION   TO   OTHER    HEADS 
OF    DEPARTMENTS. 


Steward's  Storekeeping,  Steward's  Bookkeeping, 

AND  MANAGEMENT  OF  HELP. 

ALSO, 

COMPOSITION  OF  BILLS  OF  FARE, 


THE  REASONS  WHY,  AND  NUMEROUS  ILLUSTRATIVE  MENUS 
OF  MEALS  ON  THE  AMERICAN  PLAN 


JESSUP  WHITEHEAD. 


CHICAGO. 

1899. 


Entered  accorm.j^-  to  Act  of  Congress  in  the  Office  of  the  Librarian,  at  Washington,  by 
JESSCP  WHITEHEAD,  1889. — All  rights  reserved. 


THE  HOTEL  STEWARD  AND  HIS  DUTIES. 


The  steward  is  out  of  fashion  just  at 
present,  although  there  are  indications 
that  the  time  is  coming  around  again 
when  he  will  take  his  proper  place  in  the 
hotel  economy,  a  place  second  in  import- 
ance only  to  that  of  the  proprietor.  He 
has  been  dropping  out  of  fashion  more 
and  more  every  year  for  a  long  period, 
while  the  chef  gained  the  ascendancy,  till 
now  the  steward  and  his  position  are  al- 
most forgotten.  It  used  to  be  sufficient  to 
say  that  Mr.  So-and-so  was  the  proprietor 
and  Mr.  Somebody  was  his  steward,  and 
that  included  everything,  for  the  steward 
had  his  headwaiter,  his  cook,  his  pastry 
cook.  Some  stewards  of  the  few  remaining 
write  my  cook,  etc.,  yet,  from  the  force  of 
old  habits,  but  really  there  are  but  few  and 
they  are  but  seldom  heard  of.  There  are 
plenty  of  indications  to  satisfy  anyone  that 
this  is  the  case.  There  is  no  employe*  of 
any  importance  about  a  hotel  or  restaurant 
so  seldom  mentioned  in  print  now  as  the 
steward,  and  if  one  of  them  does  appear 
in  print  through  his  own  writing,  he  gets 
but  a  nod  like  any  stranger,  and  at  once 
disappears.  It  is  very  rarely  that  any  ad- 
vertisement appears  of  a  steward  wanted, 
and  when  occasionally  a  steward  adver- 
tises for  a  situation  it  is  half-heartedly,  for 
most  of  such  advertisements  end  with  an 
offer  to  assist  with  something  else,  as  if  it 
was  scarcely  expected  that  any  hotel  keeper 
could  possibly  want  a  steward,  or  as  if  a 
steward's  duties  were  not  exacting  enough 
to  demand  every  minute  of  his  time ;  some, 
who  so  advertise,  have  been  stewards,  they 
say,  twenty  years  or  more;  that  is,  they  are 
of  the  old  stock  of  stewards,  remainders 
from  the  stewards  era,  and  cannot  help 
offering  themselves.  But  the  young  men 


who  advertise  numerously  wants  to  be 
assistant  managers,  managers  of  small 
houses,  caterers,  occasionally,  or  store- 
keepers and  assistant  clerks,  anything  but 
steward,  and  letters  of  inquiry  come  to  the 
hotel  newspaper  offices  innocently  asking 
what  the  steward's  duties  are,  almost  by 
implication  asking  what  stewards  are  for. 
About  a  year  ago  some  newspaper  man 
interviewed  the  proprietor  of  a  large  hotel 
in  Washington  and  asked  him  about  the 
methods  of  internal  management,  and 
asked:  "How  do  you  know  how  much  to 
cook?"  "I  confer  with  my  chef"  answered 
the  proprietor — and  then  we  do  thus  and 
so,  and  the  dialogue  included  many  such 
questions.  But  where  was  the  steward  in 
that  case? 

Another  such  indication  comes  to  hand 
in  a  very  late  number  of  the  Hotel  World, 
after  the  foregoing  had  been  written,  and 
must  be  repeated  for  its  worth  and  to  help 
confirm  the  position  taken,  that  the  steward 
is  out  of  fashion,  and  the  chef  is  in  the  as- 
cendant: 

The  chef  of  a  large  Saratoga  hotel  is  re- 
ported as  saying:  "We  receive  word  from 
the  office  every  morning  how  many  people 
there  are  in  the  house,  and  there  are  cer- 
tain well  established  rules  for  calculation. 
For  instance,  among  a  certain  number  of 
people  so  many  will  take  roast  beef,  and 
we  have  found  by  experiment  that  100 
people  require  a  side  of  beef  weighing 
about  forty  pounds.  Among  the  same  100 
people  forty  or  fifty  chickens  will  be  needed, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  chickens.  We 
can  calculate  pretty  closely,  but  we  have 
to  be  liberal,  so  that  if  fifty  or  sixty  people 
come  in  to  dinner  whom  we  did  not  expect, 
there  will  not  be  a  scant  supply.  I  make 


Emerea  accord*.**-  to  Act  of  Congress  in  the  Office  of  the  Librarian,  at  Washington,  by 
JESSUP  WHITEHEAD,  iSSo. — All  rights  reserved. 


THE  HOTEL  STEWARD  AND  HIS  DUTIES. 


The  steward  is  out  of  fashion  just  at 
present,  although  there  are  indications 
that  the  time  is  coming  around  again 
when  he  will  take  his  proper  place  in  the 
hotel  economy,  a  place  second  in  import- 
ance only  to  that  of  the  proprietor.  He 
has  been  dropping  out  of  fashion  more 
and  more  every  year  for  a  long  period, 
while  the  chef  gained  the  ascendancy,  till 
now  the  steward  and  his  position  are  al- 
most forgotten.  It  used  to  be  sufficient  to 
say  that  Mr.  So-and-so  was  the  proprietor 
and  Mr.  Somebody  was  his  steward,  and 
that  included  everything,  for  (he  steward 
had  his  head  waiter,  kis  cook,  his  pastry 
cook.  Some  stewards  of  the  few  remaining 
write  my  cook,  etc.,  yet,  from  the  force  of 
old  habits,  but  really  there  are  but  few  and 
they  are  but  seldom  heard  of.  There  are 
plenty  of  indications  to  satisfy  anyone  that 
this  is  the  case.  There  is  no  employe"  of 
any  importance  about  a  hotel  or  restaurant 
so  seldom  mentioned  in  print  now  as  the 
steward,  and  if  one  of  them  does  appear 
in  print  through  his  own  writing,  he  gets 
but  a  nod  like  any  stranger,  and  at  once 
disappears.  It  is  very  rarely  that  any  ad- 
vertisement appears  of  a  steward  wanted, 
and  when  occasionally  a  steward  adver- 
tises for  a  situation  it  is  half-heartedly,  for 
most  of  such  advertisements  end  with  an 
offer  to  assist  with  something  else,  as  if  it 
was  scarcely  expected  that  any  hotel  keeper 
could  possibly  want  a  steward,  or  as  if  a 
steward's  duties  were  not  exacting  enough 
to  demand  every  minute  of  his  time;  some, 
who  so  advertise,  have  been  stewards,  they 
say,  twenty  years  or  more;  that  is,  they  are 
of  the  old  stock  of  stewards,  remainders 
from  the  stewards  era,  and  cannot  help 
offering  themselves.  But  the  young  men 


who  advertise  numerously  wants  to  be 
assistant  managers,  managers  of  small 
houses,  caterers,  occasionally,  or  store- 
keepers and  assistant  clerks,  anything  but 
steward,  and  letters  of  inquiry  come  to  the 
hotel  newspaper  offices  innocently  asking 
what  the  steward's  duties  are,  almost  by 
implication  asking  what  stewards  are  for. 
About  a  year  ago  some  newspaper  man 
interviewed  the  proprietor  of  a  large  hotel 
in  Washington  and  asked  him  about  the 
methods  of  internal  management,  and 
asked:  "How  do  you  know  how  much  to 
cook?"  "I  confer  with  my  chef"  answered 
the  proprietor — and  then  we  do  thus  and 
so,  and  the  dialogue  included  many  such 
questions.  But  where  was  the  steward  in 
that  case? 

Another  such  indication  comes  to  hand 
in  a  very  late  number  of  the  Hotel  World, 
after  the  foregoing  had  been  written,  and 
must  be  repeated  for  its  worth  and  to  help 
confirm  the  position  taken,  that  the  steward 
is  out  of  fashion,  and  the  chef  is  in  the  as- 
cendant: 

The  chef  of  a  large  Saratoga  hotel  is  re- 
ported as  saying:  "We  receive  word  from 
the  office  every  morning  how  many  people 
there  are  in  the  house,  and  there  are  cer- 
tain well  established  rules  for  calculation. 
For  instance,  among  a  certain  number  of 
people  so  many  will  take  roast  beef,  and 
we  have  found  by  experiment  that  100 
people  require  a  side  of  beef  weighing 
about  forty  pounds.  Among  the  same  100 
people  forty  or  fifty  chickens  will  be  needed, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  chickens.  We 
can  calculate  pretty  closely,  but  we  have 
to  be  liberal,  so  that  if  fifty  or  sixty  people 
come  in  to  dinner  whom  we  did  not  expect, 
there  will  not  be  a  scant  supply.  I  make 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


out  the  bill  of  fare  for  each  day's  dinner  on 
the  afternoon  of  the  previous  day.  I  look 
over  my  stock,  ask  the  steward  what  he 
expects  to  have  in  by  the  morning  trains, 
and  thus  knowing  the  material  I  shall  have 
to  work  with  on  the  morrow,  the  bill  of 
fare  is  made  out." 

The  above  is  according  to  fact,  but  if 
everything  in  the  hotel  system  were  in  its 
proper  order  it  would  have  been  the  stew- 
ard who  did  the  taking,  conferred  with  the 
cook,  instead  of  being  questioned  by  the 
cook,  and  who  would  have  suggested  the 
bill  of  fare  and  revised  it  after  the  cJief  had 
written  it 

A  3rear  or  two  ago  a  young  proprietor  in 
sore  trouble  applied  to  the  writer  to  assist 
him  in  finding  a  different  variety  of  cooks 
from  those  he  had  met;  he  said  he  had 
tried  all  sorts,  the  high-priced  association 
cooks  among  the  rest,  and  he  stigmatized 
them  all  as  a  man  will  who  is  tormented. 
He  wrote:  "I  want  a  cook  who  can  com- 
pute the  cost  of  his  meals,  who  knows  the 
difference  between  skillful  work  and  com- 
mon extravagance,  who  will  remain  at  his 
post  until  the  meal  is  over,  and  be  as  will- 
ing to  earn  his  wages  as  I  am  to  pay  them.'' 
This  young  proprietor  has  come  into  the 
business  while  stewards  are  out  of  fashion, 
and  it  never  occurred  to  him  that  what  he 
really  did  want  was  a  steward.  There  are 
no  cooks  who  will  do  all  that  he  sees  should 
be  done,  none  that  have  learned  to  compute 
the  cost  of  meals,  except  with  the  coopera- 
tion of  the  steward  and  store-keeper; 
where  there  is  no  steward  something  is 
neglected  to  be  done.  Although  this  ne- 
cessary officer  may  be  absent,  his  duties  are 
there  to  be  performed  in  every  hotel,  and 
are  divided  amongst  several,  and  as  these 
cannot  do  as  well  as  a  man  trained  to  the 
special  duties  of  the  position,  there  must 
necessarily  be  irregularity,  incompleteness 
and  loss  in  the  hotel  system. 

A   NEW   CLASS   OF   STEWARDS. 

If  there  is  to  be  a  new  beginning,  if  the 
steward  is  to  catch  up  "with  his  proper  place 
In  the  line  of  hotel  improvement,  so  that 


he  will  be  found  where  he  ought  to  be  in 
every  hotel,  and  if  it  is  become  so  that  the 
steward  will  be  engaged  first  and  the  cooks 
at  any  time  afterwards,  instead  of  the  pres- 
ent general  practice,  there  must  be  a  model 
for  young  men  to  build  upon.  It  is  impos- 
sible now  to  give  a  satisfactory  answer  to 
the  inquiries  that  are  received  as  to  what 
constitute  a  steward's  duties,  for  it  is  too 
indefinite  a  question.  There  are  two  dif- 
ferent sorts  of  stewards  at  present  filling 
the  positions  where  they  are  filled,  and  one 
of  these  types  will  endure  and  be  the  hotel 
steward  of  a  few  years  later,  and  then  his 
duties  will  be  well  defined.  One  of  these 
is  the  New  England  steward,  the  other  is 
the  New  York  steward,  which  is  the  same 
as  the  ship  steward  and  the  Southern 
steamboat  steward  of  years  ago.  Nothing 
invidiously  sectional  is  meant  by  the  adop- 
tion of  these  distinguishing  terms.  There 
are  New  England  stewards  in  New  York 
and  stewards  of  the  New  England  type; 
they  are  the  men  who  go  from  the  North 
every  winter  to  take  the  same  positions  in 
the  same  Florida  hotels  year  after  year; 
not  all  of  them  are  of  New  England  birth, 
some  are  Canadians,  or  of  more  distant 
origin  still ;  when  by  chance  they  have  to 
advertise  for  a  position  they  describe  them- 
selves as  working  stewards.  And  there 
are  stewards  of  the  nautical  New  York 
type  in  New  England  (for  New  York  is 
but  the  rendezvous  for  steamship  men  and 
steamboat  men),  the  bossing  and  buying 
stewards,  who  are  officers  and  used  to  dis- 
cipline, yet  absolute  in  authority  in  their 
own  department,  and  fine  men  in  their  own 
sphere;  yet,  somehow,  they  do  not  assimil- 
ate with  the  hotel  system ;  neither  do  they 
who  learn  from  them.  Proprietors,  after  a 
trial,  prefer  to  carry  on  their  business  with- 
out them,  and  the  steward  drops  out  of 
sight  The  kind  of  man  that  is  coming  to 
the  front  is  a  bossing  and  buying  and 
working  steward,  too.  He  knows  what 
should  be  done,  how  it  should  be,  and  sees 
that  it  is  so,  and  when  there  is  any  neces- 
sity whatever  for  him  to  do  so  he  can  take 
hold  and  do  it  himself. 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


A  more  efficient  set  of  men,  who  yet  do 
not  suit  the  hotel  system,  cannot  be  imag- 
ined than  the  stewards  of  the  ocean  steam- 
ships and  old-time,  long-trip  river  steam- 
boats. They  have  entire  charge;  the  pas- 
sengers must  look  to  them  for  everything 
and  not  to  the  captain,  who  is  but  a  court 
of  appeal,  a  higher  authority  in  reserve. 
When  complaint  is  made  to  the  captain  he 
is  very  apt  to  say,  "Sir  or  Madam,  I  have  a 
steward  who  manages  all  those  matters,  he 
will  arrange  those  things  to  your  satisfac- 
tion, you  had  better  speak  to  him."  If  a 
polite  commander,  and  desirous  of  pleas- 
ing the  passengers,  perhaps  he  will  promise 
to  see  the  steward  about  it  himself ;  beyond 
that  he  does  not  interfere,  and  for  good 
reason,  for  he  has  other  cares  and  duties, 
those  connected  with  the  cargo  and  with 
navigation.  These  stewards  are  everything 
to  the  passengers ;  the  head  waiter  is  sec- 
ond steward;  his  next  best  man  is  third 
steward,  and  it  is  no  wonder  if  all  the  wait- 
ers come  to  be  called  stewards  irj  such  a 
case,  as  they  are  on  some  steam  vessels; 
and  this  practice  has  had  such  effect  that 
anywhere  south  and  southwest  from 
Washington  and  Baltimore  the  native  ho- 
tel proprietors  call  their  head  waiter  their 
steward,  and  when  they  engage  a  steward 
they  expect  he  is  going  to  take  charge  of 
the  dining  room  and  waiters,  if  not  wait  on 
table  himself.  But  these  efficient  steam- 
ship and  steamboat  stewards  are  not  suited 
to  even  the  modern  hotel,  because  the  pro- 
prietor must  have  something  to  do,  not 
having  any  cares  of  cargo  and  navigation 
on  his  mind,  and  if  such  a  steward  excer- 
cises  his  full  function  he  becomes  the  big 
man  and  the  proprietor  the  little  man  of 
the  house.  There  cannot  be  two  kings 
over  one  small  kingdom;  one  of  them 
has  to  abdicate.  The  proprietor  cannot  and 
does  not  deny  that  the  steward  is  right 
about  his  duties  and  prerogatives,  but  he 
does  a  quieter  way,  concludes  that  he  does 
not  need  a  steward;  will  perform  part  of 
the  duties  himself  and  puts  the  other  part 
upon  the  chef. 


STEWARDS   OF   OTHER    DAYS. 

Those  old-time  Mississippi  steamboat 
stewards  were  fine  models  of  executive 
ability;  they  were  remarkable  men  in  their 
way,  and  are  worth  a  passing  description, 
for  we  shall  never  see  their  like  again ;  the 
same  state  of  their  business  will  never  exist 
again,  for  they  were  without  the  telegraph, 
practically  without  mail  or  express,  since 
their  boat  carried  the  mail  and  they  could 
hardly  send  word  ahead,  and  the  express 
reached  only  the  railroad  points  which  were 
limited  then  to  the  northern  cities.  They 
were  models  for  the  summer  resort  stew- 
ard whose  hotel  is  off  the  regular  lines  of 
travel,  in  a  difficult  country,  destitute  of 
local  markets  and  with  slow  and  uncertain 
means  of  communication.  Indeed  those 
stewards  were  generally  resort  men  them- 
selves, for  the  boating  season  was  in  winter 
and  spring,  and  the  best  of  them  had  sum- 
mer engagements  at  the  various  fashionable 
"  Springs  "  to  pass  away  the  time  when  the 
rivers  were  low  and  the  crops  were  not 
ready  to  be  moved.  These  stewards  had 
entire  charge  and  control  of  the  victualling 
department  and  hiring  of  help  and  rate  of 
wages  to  be  paid.  The  captain  held  but  one 
powerful  restraint  upon  them ;  he  and  the 
chief  clerk,  who  was  the  cashier  and  pay- 
master, kept  up  a  rigid  comparison  of  the 
bills  for  each  month  and  for  the  same 
months  of  former  years,  and,  in  a  general 
way,  the  steward  who  could  run  the  boat 
with  the  smallest  monthly  bills  was  the 
man  they  wanted  for  that  position.  While 
this  fear  of  running  up  a  monthly  expense 
account  that  the  captain  wouldn't  stand, 
was  a  great  check  upon  the  entire  steward's 
department,  the  men  who  were  smart 
enough  to  be  stewards  were  fertile  in  ex- 
pedients for  dodging  a  direct  comparison, 
and  often  made  their  dearest  months  seem 
the  very  contrary,  either  by  collusion  with 
the  merchants  or  by  special  excuses  plaus- 
ibly presented.  The  captain  did  not  know 
the  waiters  nor  whence  they  came,  nor  did 
he  know  the  cooks,  unless  by  chance  he 
had  one  of  some  repute,  but  if  this  steward 
required  twenty  waiters  and  seven  cooks 


6 


THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


and  another  could  run  the  boat  with  fifteen 
waiters  and  five  cooks,  the  cheaper  man 
had  the  better  chance  of  the  position. 
These  are  the  same  checks  and  balances 
which  hold  good  in  the  hotel  of  to-day,  and 
everywhere,  but  there  were  other  checks 
in  the  thorough  first-class  steward's  favor, 
for  the  captains  were  desirous  of  a  good 
reputation  for  their  craft  and  had  rivals  in 
the  business,  and  the  dearer  man  often  had 
his  day  to  be  on  top  regardless  of  expense. 
Where  the  special  ability  of  this  class  of 
men  was  best  shown  was  in  the  provision- 
ing of  the  boat  in  advance,  and  so  manag- 
ing that  every  succeeding  day's  dinner 
would  be  better  than  the  last,  and  the  last 
dinner  of  the  trip  was  complete  with  every 
luxury  of  the  season,  although  it  might  be 
seven  or  eight  days  since  they  left  the  city 
and  the  markets,  and  there  was  always  a 
degree  of  uncertainty  as  to  how  many  pas- 
sengers might  come  on  board  at  the  various 
towns  and  landings  of  a  ten  or  twelve  or 
fifteen  hundred  mile  trip.  The  boat's  crew 
of  deck  hands  and  firemen,  amounting  to 
anywhere  from  twenty  to  sixty  or  seventy 
men,  were  also  provided  for  by  the  stew- 
ard, and  calculations  for  them  had  to  be 
made  as  well  as  for  the  cabin,  just  as  the 
hotel  steward  has  to  provide  separately  for 
a  large  portion  of  "  the  help." 

Going  down  stream  they  left  orders  at 
certain  landings  for  the  boat  storemen  to 
have  so  much  milk,  chickens,  eggs,  or  such 
things,  ready  by  a  certain  day  on  their  re- 
turn ;  for  the  rest  the  trusted  to  their  well- 
managed  ice-chests  and  store-room.  The 
steward  hired  the  stewardesses,  who  is  the 
same  as  the  hotel  housekeeper,  and  she 
generally  hired  two  girls  to  help  her.  The 
steward,  likewise,  hired  the  porter  and  bar- 
ber, but  had  nothing  to  do  with  the  bar- 
keeper, nor  engineers,  or  mate's  crew. 
There  was  a  pantryman,  who  did  not  wait 
at  table ;  the  fifteen  or  twenty  waiters  were 
divided  into  berth-makers  (instead  of  cham- 
ber-maids), lamp-trimmers,  knife-cleaners 
(for  plated  knives  had  not  yet  come  into 
use),  napkin-folders,  and  the  usual  side 
work,  and  they  filled  in  all  their  time  be- 


sides in  scrubbing  paint,  except  the  short 
interval  in  the  afternoon. 

These  waiters  had  to  carry  all  the  stores 
on  board  from  the  wharf,  whether  at  the 
city  starting  point  or  at  way  landings,  so 
that  the  steward  and  those  he  hired  and 
controlled  carried  on  the  entire  hotel  de- 
partment of  the  boat  without  aid  or  inter- 
ference from  anybody.  Steamboats  are 
still  running  under  much  the  same  rules. 
This  is  spoken  of  in  the  past  tsnse,  because 
it  refers  to  a  time  when  the  passenger  trade 
was  so  good  that  the  steamboat  table  was 
as  good  as  money  and  skill  could  make  it, 
and  the  time  on  each  trip  was  long  enough 
to  make  the  steamboat  more  like  a  hotel  in 
some  out-of-the-way  place  than  the  light- 
ning-express boats  of  to-day  can  possibly 
be ;  and,  besides  the  best  of  their  time  was 
from  ten  to  twenty  years  B.  W.,  which 
means  before  the  war.  So,  presumably, 
those  old-time  stewards  are  all  dead  and 
cannot  object  to  the  statements  contained 
in  the  next  chapter. 

"THE   EVIL   WHICH    MEN   DO   LIVES  AFTER 
THEM." 

These  men,  these  old-time  river  stewards, 
are  largely  to  blame  for  the  fact  that  there 
are  so  few  stewards  now  in  the  hotels. 
Their  standard  of  morals  was  generally 
very  low;  they  were  sharps,  they  were 
universally  "on  the  make."  When  the 
passenger  trade  was  taken  away  from  them 
by  the  building  of  railroads  they  naturally 
went  into  the  hotels,  where  they  were  not 
adapted  to  remain,  the  hotels  being  gen- 
erally not  large  enough  to  hold  them  and 
not  wealthy  enough  to  stand  the  "  bleed- 
ing" which  the  river  steward  could  not 
live  without  resorting  to. 

About  five  years  ago  a  party  of  four 
or  five  old  survivors  met  together  talk- 
ing, and  a  number  of  young  hotel  boys 
sat  around  learning  steward  wisdom  as  it 
fell  from  their  lips.  Said  one: 

"  What!  Don't  you  know  how  it  was  we 
river  fellows  never  could  make  a  go  of  it 
in  a  hotel  ?" 

"  No;  what  was  the  reason?" 

"Landladies!" 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


And  then  he  brought  his  lips  together, 
bulged  out  his  cheeks,  and  looked  around 
as  if  that  one  immense  word  was  all  that 
need  be  uttered.  Soon  he  resumed: 

"  You  know  there's  no  landladies  on  the 
boats  and — oh,  well,"  with  a  shrug,  "in  the 
hotel  pastry  room  and  kitchen  you  don't 
see  the  difference,  for  they  don't  go  there 
much,  but  we  are  all  about  the  house  and 
so  are  they,  and  when  we  go  to  run  it 
right  we  step  on  their  toes  every  once  in  a 
while." 

"Well,"  said  another,  "I  got  a  pretty 
good  'sit*  in  there  at  the  St  James,  and 
never  quite  knew  how  I  got  out  of  it,  but 
somebody  must  have  been  meddling.  You 

know  I  was  on  the  N No.  2  and  on  No. 

3;  they  both  burned  up,  and  then  I  went 
and  brought  out  the  new  No.  4,  but  there 
was  no  water  that  season  and  she  couldn't 

run ;  so  Captain  C took  me  over  to  the 

St.  James  and  gave  me  an  introduce,  and  I 
went  as  steward  of  the  house,  and  1  made 
up  my  mind  that  was  better  than  a  boat 
and  I  could  keep  my  family  cheaper.  There 
was  my  buggy  ready  for  me  at  five  every 
morning  to  go  the  rounds  of  the  markets, 
and  I  would  go  to  the  butcher's  and  pick 
out  what  I  wanted  for  the  day,  and  I  would 
pick  out  a  roast  for  myself  and  order  that 
sent  around  to  my  house  when  they  sent 
the  wagon  with  meat  to  the  hotel ;  then 
down  to  the  fish  market  and  vegetable  mar- 
ket and  do  the  same.  Then  I  drove  back 
to  the  house  and  when  the  stuff  came  in  I 
weighed  it,  footed  up  what  I  had  bought, 
took  the  bills  to  the  office  and  they  handed 
me  the  money  to  go  and  pay  them  with, 
for  they  paid  cash  on  the  nail  every  day, 
and  after  breakfast  I  went  around  again 
and  paid  for  everything  received  that  morn- 
ing. Every  week  or  two  I  would  say  to 
the  butcher,  '  Well,  what  do  I  owe  you  for 
what  you  have  sent  to  my  family  ?'  '  Oh, 
nothing,'  says  he,  'that's  all  right,'  and  not 
one  of  the  others  ever  charged  me  a  cent, 
either,  and  I  was  getting  along  as  good  as 
you  could  expect  of  a  hotel ;  but  somebody 
must  have  been  meddling,  for  I  had  a  little 
unpleasantness  in  the  office  and  I  quit." 


Then  another  took  up  the  conversation: 
"  We  hadn't  such  a  bad  time  with  those 
boats  when  the  seasons  were  right,  with 
plenty  of  water  in  the  rivers.  A  fellow  had 
to  be  in  with  the  boat  store-men  and  then 
he  was  all  right,  for  they  could  get  him  a 
berth  if  he  got  out,  and  would  pull  him 
through  a  hard  time.  Yes,  they  were  a 
clever  lot  of  fellows.  I  used  to  stay  around 
with  old  Tom  Curtice  and  son  at  Vicks- 
burg,  and  I've  seen  the  time  when  it  was 
pretty  hard  to  pull  through  from  one  season 
to  another,  I  tell  you,  but  whenever  I  went 
to  Curtice  he  would  say,  'Well,  Frank, 
how  is  it  now?'  'By  jing,'  says  I,  'it's 
pretty  tough  when  a  boat's  so  long  coming 
out.'  «  Well,  Frank,'  says  old  Tom,  « what 
do  you  want,  what  can  we  do  for  you ;  all 
you've  got  to  do  is  to  say  it?'  'Well,  Mr. 
Curtice,'  says  I,  'about  twenty-five  dollars 
to  pay  house  rent  is  the  size  of  it.'  Then 
without  another  word  he  would  turn  to  his 
son  and  say,  "  Richard,  open  the  drawer 
and  hand  Frank  twenty-five  dollars — no, 
give  him  thirty,  he  can  use  it,'  and  that's 
all  there  would  be  about  it.  It  might  be 
months  afterward,  but  sometime  I  would 
say,  '  Mr.  Curtice,  how  about  that  thirty 
dollars  I  owe  you?'  'Oh,  don't  name  it,' 
says  he,  'you  don't  owe  us  a  cent;  but  how 
many  tierces  of  ham,  bacon,  shoulders  and 
lard  shall  we  send  aboard  this  morning?' 
Well,  it  was  to  their  interest  to  be  clever  to 
us  and  they  knew  it.  The  captain  was  stuck 
on  having  all  the  stores  purchased  in  New 
Orleans,  but  in  the  first  place  it  was  not  his 
business  where  I  got  my  stores,  as  long  as 
the  price  was  right,  and  then  it  was  the 
easiest  thing  in  the  world  for  me  to  forget, 
or  have  it  come  from  the  New  Orleans 
house  late  enough  to  miss  the  boat,  and 
have  to  take  on  stores  at  Vicksburg,  any- 
way." 

Such  are  the  favorite  topics  the  old-tim- 
ers love  to  converse  upon  and  the  hotel 
boys  think  they  are  learning  from  them 
how  to  be  stewards. 

One  year  ago  one  of  these  same  young 
men,  who  listened  for  hours  to  the  talk  of 
the  party  above  named,  was  met  by  the 


8 


THE   STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


writer  in  the  South.  In  the  interval  he 
had  been  steward,  or  part  steward,  in  a 
hotel  in  a  town  on  the  Hudson,  and  what 
he  told  of  his  experience  showed  that  the 
lessons  in  stewarding,  he  had  listened  to, 
were  not  thrown  away  upon  him. 

When  met  he  was  the  roast  cook  in  a 
large  hotel  at  forty  dollars  per  month,  and 
In  answer  to  the  question  how  he  was 
getting  along,  he  replied : 

"Oh,  I  made  the  worst  sort  of  a  break 
for  myself  when  I  came  down  here.  I  had 
a  good  little  house  up  in  York  State ;  I  was 
c/ief,  but  the  house  did  not  keep  a  steward 
and  I  did  the  buying  for  them,  and  was 
doing  very  well,  but  I  kicked  because  they 
would  only  pay  sixty  dollars.  But  if  I  had 
looked  at  it  right  that  house  was  worth  a 
hundred  dollars  a  month  to  me,  every  cent 
of  it,  and  it  was  a  small  house  and  I  didn't 
have  to  work  hard." 

"But  how  was  it  worth  a  hundred  a 
month  to  you  ?" 

"Well,  for  one  thing,  I  was  sure  of  a  five 
dollar  bill  from  the  butcher  every  Monday 
morning,  and  all  the  others  I  traded 
with  chipped  in  a  little.  Then  I  made  the 
waiters  whack  up  to  me;  they  got  money 
and  they  had  to  divide  or  would  not  get 
anything.  Then  at  Christmas  time  I  got 
a  new  suit  of  clothes,  a  pair  of  fine  boots 
and  a  fine  hat  and  they  never  cost  me  a 
cent;  but  1  kicked  on  the  sixty  dollars  and 
they  got  somebody  else  and  I  quit  and 
came  down  here." 

And  so  the  young  would-be  stewards 
are  cut  down  like  the  green  grass  and  the 
race  is  in  danger  of  becoming  totally 
extinct. 

THS   PERNICIOUS   COMMISSION   SYSTEM. 

The  very  fact  that  these  old-school  stew- 
ards and  the  young  fledglings  who  think 
they  are  learning  the  steward's  duties  from 
them,  relate  these  money-making  exper- 
iences with  so  much  gusto,  and,  indeed, 
make  them  their  favorite  subject  of  con- 
versation, shows  that  they  do  not  consider 
bribe-taking  dishonest.  It  may  be  their 
moral  sense  is  very  dull,  but  if  they  need 


to  justify  themselves  they  can  find  abund- 
ant excuse  in  the  prevailing  system  of  per 
cents  and  commissions.  There  is  not  a 
thing  that  must  be  purchased  from  a  mer- 
chant but  bears  two  different  prices:  the 
list  price,  or  asking  price,  and  the  net  price. 
From  the  material  to  build  the  hotel,  the 
furniture,  ranges  and  crockery,  to  the  type 
to  print  the  bill  of  fare,  everything  comes 
priced  at  so  much,  but  with  five,  ten,  fifteen 
or  twenty-five  per  cent,  off  to  the  actual 
purchaser,  and  if  the  old -school  steward  is 
allowed  to  be  the  purchaser  there  is  no 
possibility  of  convincing  him  that  he  is  not 
entitled  to  that  commission,  and,  further- 
more, according  to  his  reasoning,  if  the 
distant  merchant  do  so  unsolicited  the 
home  mei  chants  must  be  made  to  do  the 
same.  And  the  home  merchant  who  wants 
his  trade  agrees  with  him,  and,  more  than 
that,  says  to  him,  "You  may  as  well  take 
the  commission;  if  you  don't  somebody 
else  will,  and  if  not  the  house  will  not  get 
the  benefit ;  the  price  will  be  the  same  and 
we  shall  keep  the  commission  ourselves, 
as  well  as  our  regular  profit." 

The  writer  knew  a  youthful  cook  in  a 
large  hotel,  only  a  few  months  ago,  who 
went  to  the  office  and  asked  the  proprietor 
to  send  for  a  list  of  knives  and  tools  for 
him  and  take  the  amount  out  of  his  current 
months  wages.  The  proprietor  did  so. 
The  bill  of  goods  was  in  the  neighborhood 
of  twenty  dollars ;  there  was  the  usual  dis- 
count allowed  and  it  amounted  to  about 
three  dollars  and  a  half.  The  proprietor, 
who  was  a  mercantile  man  himself,  charged 
the  cook  the  full  list  price  and  put  the  pur- 
chaser's commission  in  his  own  pocket. 
This  made  the  youthful  cook  and  probable 
future  steward  so  "mad"  that  he  would 
have  discharged  the  proprietor  if  he  could, 
but  as  he  could  not  he  tendered  his  own 
resignation  instead.  Yet  this  is  what  the 
old-school  stewards  think  is  the  right  thing 
to  do.  Human  nature  is  the  same  in 
proprietor  as  in  cook,  and  when  the  stew- 
ard pockets  the  commissions  which  he 
ought  to  obtain  for  the  house  and  not  him- 
self, the  proprietor  may  not  split  logic  over 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


9 


it,  but  he  is  liable  to  come  to  the  conclusion 
that  he  can  get  along  better  without  a 
steward,  and  if  the  butcher  is  making  so 
much  profit  that  he  can  aSord  to  give  five- 
dollar  bills  to  his  customers,  the  proprietor 
will  go  and  receive  his  share  himself.  The 
coming  steward  will  refuse  to  take  these 
bribes  for  reasons  apart  from  the  question 
of  morality  and  the  correctness  of  prevail- 
ing commercial  customs,  but  from  another 
motive,  to  be  dwelt  upon  further  on. 

SOMETHIXG   LESS    MANLY. 

While  these  old-time  stewards  took  such 
extreme  pleasure  in  talking  over  the  de- 
lights of  commissions  and  per  cents,  there 
was  another  source  of  profit  worked  by 
some  of  them  that  was  never  spoken  of. 
They  were  generally  a  rugged  and  manly 
set  of  men,  used  to  controlling  others,  and 
perhaps  were  conscious  that  there  was 
nothing  to  be  proud  of  in  this  sort  of 
brokerage.  It  was  the  selling  of  the  situ- 
ations under  them.  None  can  know 
whether  the  practice  was  general  or  to 
what  extent  it  prevailed,  but  it  was  well 
known  that  the  situations  on  some  boats 
could  only  be  obtained  by  purchase.  The 
stewards  kept  up  communications  and 
knew  where  every  available  porter,  second 
steward,  stewardess,  cook  and  baker  could 
be  found,  and  if  the  old  hands  were  not 
coming  back  some  such  trades  as  this 
took  place.  The  boat  paid  a  certain  price 
for  each  employe,  the  rate  being  fixed  by 
the  stewards  themselves,  and  no  man  or 
woman  was  wanted,  or  could  ever  after- 
wards obtain  a  situation,  who  would  offer 
to  come  and  take  less.  The  stewardess 
(housekeeper)  was  required  to  be  a  respect- 
able, matronly  sort  of  a  woman,  one  whom 
the  lady  passengers  could  feel  at  home 
with;  the  wages  for  such  was  usually  forty 
dollars  per  month,  but  she  did  not  secure 
it  all,  having  to  pay  part  of  it  to  the  stew- 
ard. In  the  case  of  a  cook  the  trade  would 
be  about  like  this: 

Steward — "This  boat  pays  eighty  dollars ; 
what  will  you  give  me  for  the  job — will 
you  pay  me  twenty  dollars  a  month  for  it?" 


Cook — "No,  I  will  pay  you  ten  dollars  a 
month." 

Steward — "You  can't  have  it.  But  you 
want  to  work?" 

Cook — "Yes,  I  want  to  work.1' 

Steward — "And  my  friend  up  the  river 
writes  me  that  you  are  a  good  cook ;  now, 
I  like  my  cook  to  be  a  good  one  if  he  does 
not  cost  me  too  much — I'll  split  the  differ- 
ence; you  shall  pay  me  fifteen  dollars  a 
month  for  the  job,  pay  every  trip  before 
you  go  ashore." 

Cook— "All  right,  I'll  do  that." 

Steward — "Well,  pull  off  your  coat  and 
go  to  work ;  I'll  go  and  enter  your  name 
on  the  cashier's  book." 

But  the  cook  generally  had  the  privilege 
of  hiring  and  discharging  his  kitchen  help, 
and  could  partly  recoup  himself  by  selling 
the  second  cook's  job  in  the  same  way. 

It  must  be  said  in  their  favor,  however, 
that  the  majority  of  river  stewards  thought 
this  a  despiceable  practice.  "Why,"  cried 
one  of  them  with  intense  scorn,  "a  man 
aint  fit  to  be  a  steward  that  can't  beat  his 
hand  out  of  all  their  money  at  cards. 
That's  the  way  I  always  do,  and  it  is  more 
honorable  than  grinding  them  down ;  what 
is  the  use  of  making  small  dickers!" 

A  SPECIMEN   LETTER. 

The  mixedness  of  the  ideas  of  a  stew- 
ard's duties  contained  in  the  following  let- 
ter is  easily  accounted  for  when  the  fact  is 
taken  into  consideration  that  there  are  two 
different  types  of  stewards  now  doing  busi- 
ness in  the  hotels  of  this  country ;  one  set 
does  and  the  other  does  not  do  as  the  writer 
says.  After  discussing  the  matter  from 
their  different  standpoints  we  will  endeavor 
to  draw  some  definite  conclusions  and  out- 
line the  duties  of  the  coming  steward. 
This  letter  is  from  New  Hampshire;  it  is 
written  on  paper  bearing  the  imprint 
"Kearsarge"  hotel;  it  is  one  of  the  best 
specimens  of  a  letter  of  inquiry  of  this  sort 
ever  received,  for  the  writer  has  ideas  of 
his  own  and  starts  the  subject,  and  the 
italics,  which  are  his  own,  intimate  very 


1U 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


clearly  just  what  points  were  in  dispute. 
It  runs: 

"Having  some  dispute  with  friends  in 
regard  to  the  duties  of  a  steward  in  a  first- 
class  house  I  told  them  I  would  leave  the 
matter  to  you  to  decide  as  I  knew  *  *  *  * 
I  told  them  that  the  steward  engages  all 
the  help  for  the  kitchen,  the  chef  included, 
also  headwaiter  (the  waiters  under  the 
headwaiter  may  be  hired  by  the  head- 
waiter  subject  to  the  steward's  approval), 
and  that  all  the  above  help  are  under  and 
subject  to  the  steward's  control;  that  the 
steward  does  all  the  buying  of  supplies  for 
the  table  and  all  kitchen  utensils;  that  the 
pastry  cook  or  confectioner  makes  all  ices 
and  creams ;  that  the  steward  does  no  carv- 
ing, as  that  is  done  by  the  cook  or  his  as- 
sistants; that  the  steward  gets  up  all  bills 
of  fare ;  that  it  is  not  his  duty,  or  his  assist- 
ants', to  carry  from  the  carving  room  and 
care  for  the  meats,  etc.,  that  may  be  left 
after  the  dinner  is  over,  that  duty  belong- 
ing to  the  cook ;  that  the  steward  does  no 
manual  labor,  but  is  the  head  and  director 
of  all  matters  pertaining  to  kitchen  and 
dining  room;  that  the  steward's  assistant 
prepares  all  meats  for  cooking,  but  not  the 
steward  personally. 

I  have  been  interested  in  small  hotels, 
not  large  enough  to  employ  a  steward,  and 
so  may  be  wrong  in  my  statement,  and  if 
so  will  you  please  give  me  the  correct  du- 
ties of  a  steward,  and  oblige,  etc." 

THE   STEWARD    THE    SUPERIOR    OFFICER. 

The  first  proposition  is  only  partly  right, 
the  steward  hires  the  chef  or  head  cook 
but  not  the  kitchen  help  under  him ;  the 
steward  hires  the  headwaiter  but  not  the 
waiters  under  him;  the  steward  hires  the 
baker,  pastry  cook  and  confectioner  but 
not  their  helpers — not  by  right,  but  he 
frequently  does  in  fact  as  a  matter  of  ac- 
commodation because  he  knows  where  to 
find  them  when  the  cooks  themselves  do 
not,  and  the  steward  always  has  the  power 
to  discharge  any  hand  for  disobedience  or 
misconduct,  or  to  suspend  or  fine  him. 

The  steward  is  the  superior  officer  over 


the  head  cook,  over  the  headwaiter,  over 
the  pastry  cook  and  the  rest.  He  is  next 
to  the  proprietor.  He  is  responsible  for  the 
good  or  bad  table  that  the  house  sets,  and 
for  the  quality  of  the  service.  If  he  does 
not  have  the  power  to  hire  or  discharge 
the  cooks  they  will  work  against  him  and 
there  will  be  no  harmony;  they  will  look 
to  the  higher  authority,  blame  the  steward 
for  the  poor  quality,  real  or  alleged,  of  the 
supplies  furnished  to  them,  and  muke  of 
him  little  more  than  a  market  man  and 
messenger,  and  the  headwaiter  will  take 
but  little  notice  of  the  complaints  the  stew- 
ard may  hear  and  report  to  him  concern- 
ing his  waiters'  conduct,  if  he  knows 
that  the  steward  has  no  power  except  to 
talk. 

THE    STEWARD     DEALS     ONLY     WITH    THE 
HEAD    MEN. 

But  the  head  cook  has  his  own  favorite 
second  who  goes  with  him  year  after  year, 
and  frequently  his  roast  cook  and, broiler 
and  several  others  whom  the  steward  never 
exercises  his  authority  over,  except  when 
they  wilfully  transgress  his  rules,  and 
rarely  ever  speaks  to,  for  whatever  they  do 
wrong  or  right  the  head  cook  is  responsible 
for,  and  all  orders  for  them  to  do  anything 
are  given  to  the  head  cook;  the  steward 
will  say,  "have  your  man  there  do  this,  or 
"your  vegetable  cook  is  not  giving  good 
satisfaction,  will  you  look  into  that  mat 
ter."  There  may  be  a  hand  in  the 
kitchen  or  bake  house  whom  the  steward 
thinks  is  exceptionally  good,  yet,  some 
day  the  head  cook  or  head  baker  may  dis- 
charge him  or  her  by  writing  on  a  piece  of 
paper,  "Steward,  please  pay  off  bearer — 
for  good  cause. — John  Smith,  cJief.  Sept. 
i,  1887."  And  the  steward  will  not  inter- 
fere, but  lets  the  hand  go  without  a  word — 
unless  he  is  ready  to  dispense  with  the  ser- 
vices of  the  chef.  The  same  with  the 
headwaiter.  There  is  not  probably  a  rec- 
ognized headwaiter  in  the  land,  one  who 
is  known  and  capable,  who  would  take 
charge  of  a  dining  room  where  the  side 
waiters  were  to  be  hired  by  the  steward  or 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


11 


any  one  else.  He  could  not  exact  perfect 
obedience  from  his  waiters  without  having 
the  power  to  dismiss  them  without  appeal. 
Nevertheless  the  steward  can  compel  the 
discharge  of  a  waiter  who  is  direlict  in  his 
duty  or  disobedient. 

THE     STEWARD    AS    BUYER. 

The  next  proposition  does  not  admit  of 
a  straightforward  answer.  It  is:  "The 
steward  does  all  the  buying  of  supplies  for 
the  table  and  all  kitchen  utensils."  Undoubt- 
edly the  coming  steward  will ;  he  is  wanted 
for  that  very  purpose,  but  as  a  matter  of 
present  fact,  as  the  correspondent  puts  it,  he 
does  not,  except  in  a  few  cases.  And  the 
hotels  are  the  worse  off  because  of  the  de- 
ficiency of  stewards,  the  buying  for  a  hotel 
being  a  trade  in  itself,  not  to  be  picked  up 
or  assumed  by  anybody  on  short  notice, 
but  requiring  long  practice  and  varied  ex- 
perienced to  become  proficient  in.  The 
steward's  functions  in  this  respect  are  often 
assumed  now  by  the  proprietor.  We  read 
that  one  or  other  of  the  proprietors  of  the 
largest  of  New  York  hotels  goes  regularly 
to  market  at  five  in  the  morning  and  makes 
the  purchases  for  the  day,  numbers  of 
prominent  hotel  keepers,  besides,  have 
been  noted  as  following  the  same  practice. 
If  it  be  a  lack  of  confidence  in  stewards  in 
general  which  has  led  to  their  being  shorn 
of  their  proper  authority,  it  is  likely  the 
stewards  of  past  years  have  themselves  to 
blame.  There  is  very  little  that  is  pleasant 
in  a  steward's  life,  he  has  to  be  a  sort  of  a 
policeman,  austere,  apparently  unsym- 
pathetic, and  he  cannot  permit  familiarity, 
nor  afford  to  be  sociable,  but  most  men  in 
the  position  find  a  pleasant  relaxation 
in  marketing  and  driving  good  bargains, 
and  when,  in  addition  to  the  pleasure  of 
smart  trading,  the  idea  of  making  a  little 
private  gain  in  a  seemingly  harmless  way 
is  entertained,  the  steward  is  very  liable  to 
give  that  part  of  his  duties  nearly  his  whole 
attention,  and  leave  the  disciplinary  portion 
inside  the  house  to  neglect  ;then  the  proprie- 
tor volunteers  to  do  some  part  of  that  duty 


that  his  steward  may  have  more  time  to 
"stay  in  and  look  after  the  help." 

Yet  no  volunteer  or  occasional  buyer 
can  leave  the  office  desk,  or  pantry,  or  store 
room  and  go  and  buy  at  once  cheaply  and 
intelligently.  The  experienced  steward 
does  not  have  to  memorize  a  lot  of  rules  to 
know  whether  game,  fish,  poultry  or  meats 
are  fresh  and  wholesome  or  not,  he  knows 
at  a  glance ;  he  has  no  chemist's  tests  about 
him  for  determining  whether  a  sample  ot 
butter  is  genuine  or  imitation,  he  knows  at 
once,  he  is  practiced  at  it.  The  volunteer 
buyer,  landlord  or  clerk  rushes  out  and 
buys  what  he  thinks  are  bargains  because 
below  the  retail  price,  while  the  practiced 
steward  comes  in  with  the  same  thing  twice 
as  good  and  bought  at  half  the  price.  The 
practiced  steward  does  not  buy  small  po- 
tatoes, nor  small  apples,  nor  stale  eggs 
because  they  are  under  price,  as  the  volun- 
teer buyer  does,  for  he  knows  they  will  all 
waste  away  in  use  and  cost  double  in  the 
long  run,  nor  does  he  buy  fruit  that  will 
not  keep  till  next  day,  nor  buy  anything  on 
a  falling  market.  He  knows  where  small 
supplies  of  a  scaice  article  may  still  be 
found  in  the  bye-ways  of  the  market  and 
keeps  them  in  view,  but  does  not  buy  till 
absolutely  compelled,  thinking  that  new 
offerings  and  cheaper  may  arrive  at  any 
hour.  The  volunteer  buyer  cannot  be  so 
systematic,  nor  can  he  watch  the  fluctua- 
tions of  the  market  in  staple  groceries  and 
provisions  to  take  advantage  of  them  as 
the  regular  steward  does.  The  coming 
steward  will  get  all  these  things  down 
finer  yet,  including  fuel  and  furnishing  in 
his  purchases,  and  he  will  not  sell  his  inde- 
pendence and  freedom  to  roam  the  markets 
over  to  any  merchant  for  "a  commission." 

THE    STEWARD  PUTS  IN  HIS  FANCY  WORK. 

Next,  our  correspondent  evidently  does 
not  say  what  he  means,  his  question  is  in- 
direct, he  says:  "The  pastry  cook  or  con- 
fectioner makes  all  ices  and  creams,"  he 
probably  means  it  is  not  the  steward's  duty 
to  make  them ;  right,  but  probably  the  com- 
ing steward  will  one  day  make  a  cream  or 


12 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


an  ice  and  another  day  an  entree  or  a  soup, 
whatever  else  he  a  n  beat  the  world  at,  just 
because  he  can,  and  for  the  credit  of  his 
table.  Even  now  there  are  hotels  employ, 
ing  bakers,  who  are  bread  bakers  only,  who 
cannot  make  a  biscuit,  or  a  common 
custard  or  pudding,  and  pastry  cooks  who 
consider  creams  and  ices  so  exclusively 
confectioners'  work  that  they  never  try  to 
make  them,  and  if  they  are  good  hands 
otherwise,  the  working  steward  steps  in 
and  supplies  the  deficiencies  out  of  his  own 
superior  knowledge.  The  writer  knows 
of  one  summer  resort,  where  the  number 
of  guests  often  reaches  three  hundred, 
where  the  creams,  ices  and  fancy  sweets  of 
all  sorts,  except  cakes  and  pies,  are  made 
by  the  proprietor's  sister,  with  plenty  of 
laboring  help  to  assist,  the  baker  having 
plenty  else  to  do,  and  it  is  often  said  that 
these  "little  desserts"  are  the  best  things 
the  house  has  to  serve,  which  illustrates 
the  point  that  the  pastry  cook  does  not  al- 
ways make  them,  although  it  certainly  is 
his  business. 

ALL   STEWARDS    CARVE. 

The  next  proposition:  "The  steward 
does  no  carving,  as  that  is  done  by  the 
cook  or  his  assistants,"  is  quite  wrong. 
The  only  point  that  all  sorts  of  stewards 
are  agreed  upon  is  that  it  is  the  steward's 
duty  to  carve.  The  ability  to  carve  is  one 
of  the  accomplishments  of  a  gentleman. 
The  necessity  of  the  steward's  carving  is 
obvious,  else  how  can  he  know  how  the 
meat  turns  out  which  he  is  buying?  how 
can  he  know  how  much  is  taken  and  how 
much  is  left  over?  how  can  he  know, 
whether  the  fault  found  with  the  meat  in 
the  front  of  the  house  is  attributable  to  the 
cook's  negligence  or  to  the  meat  itself? 
how  can  he  know  what  meat  goes  to  the 
officers'  dining  room,  what  to  the  nurses 
and  children,  and  what  to  the  help?  And 
if  the  head  cook  is  to  carve  who  is  to  dish 
up  the  entrees  he  has  made  which  nobody 
knows  how  to  dish  up  right  but  himself? 
and  who  is  to  watch  the  run  that  is  made 
upon  this  or  that  dish,  or  the  soup,  or  fish, 


or  salad,  or  vegetables,  and  provide  more 
before  the  last  order  is  gone,  if  his  atten- 
tion is  engrossed  at  the  carving  table?  The 
old  steamboat  stewards  always  carved  the 
meat,  sometimes  the  captain  assisted.  The 
New  York  City  hotel  stewards  carve,  onlv, 
when  the  hotel  is  large,  there  are  two 
stewards,  and  the  inside  steward  is  the 
carver,  the  outside  steward  has  no  time  for 
it.  The  New  England  stewards,  who  go 
South  every  winter,  all  carve.  A  steward 
of  the  writer's  acquaintance,  who  grew  up 
in  the  Niagara  Falls  hotels  and  was  troubled 
with  obesity,  begged  off  from  carving  be- 
cause he  suffered  from  the  heat,  but  he 
never  hinted  even  that  carving  was  not  his 
proper  duty.  A  certain  California  steward, 
who,  however,  has  been  every  where,where- 
ever  he  goes,  always  assumes  the  carving  as 
his  right,  and  his  skill  in  dismembering  a 
fowl  almost  instantaneously  is  really  mar- 
vellous. A  true  New  York  City  steward  in 
a  large  southern  hotel  used  to  make  his 
carving  time  very  short  and  got  the  head 
cook  totake  hold  for  him,  but  never  denied 
that  it  was  his  business  to  carve.  One  of  our 
model  New  England  stewards  is  now  a 
proprietor  of  two  resort  hotels  in  their  re- 
spective seasons,  but  still  acts  as  his  own 
steward,  and  his  cJief  told  the  writer,  in 
answer  to  questions  on  these  very  points, 
that  he  did  his  own  carving  until  the  house 
became  so  full  it  was  scarcelv  possible  for 
him  to  do  so,  and  then  the  chef  found  him 
a  carver  and  he  accepted  him  and  released 
himself. 

ASSISTANT    CARVERS. 

The  steward,  being  the  chief  carver,  does 
not  necessarily  do  all ;  in  a  large  hotel  there 
is  a  row  of  carvers,  from  three  to  six,  or 
more,  all  at  work  at  once,  and  there  can  be 
no  rule  about  these  assistants.  They  may 
be  both  inside  and  outside  stewards,  some- 
times the  second  cook,  for  he  is  often  set 
at  liberty  while  the  chef  dishes  up  the  en- 
trees. Sometimes  the  roast  cook  or  broiler, 
or  the  meat  cutter.  In  some  hotels  one  of 
the  clerks  is  an  expert  carver  and  assists,  in 
others  it  may  be  a  porter  who  regularly 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


13 


comes  in.  A  very  good  combination  is 
coffee  maker  and  carver.  The  coffee  man 
has  plenty  of  employment  at  breakfast  and 
supper  making  and  serving  the  coffee,  tea, 
chocolate  and  hot  milk  and  slicing  cold 
meats,  but  at  dinner  these  things  are  un- 
important and  the  coffee  man  finds  em- 
ployment at  the  carving  table  instead. 

THE  STEWARD  AND  THE  BILL  OF  FARE. 

Then,  says  our  correspondent:  "The 
steward  gets  up  all  the  bills  of  fare." 

The  coming  steward  will,  but  he  will  be 
a  true  maitre  d'  hotel^  he  will  be  a  scholar, 
a  man  of  taste  and  grammar,  he  will  know 
more  than  the  cook,  pastry  cook,  baker  and 
confectioner,  all  combined,  about  dishes 
and  trie  modes  of  preparing  them  and  about 
literary  composition.  There  are  a  very  few 
such  stewards  now,  they  make  the  bills  of 
fare,  therefore  they  rule  the  kitchen  and 
make,  or  break,  the  culinary  reputation  of 
the  hotel.  Here  is  a  recent  paragraph  from 
the  gastronomic  items  of  an  eastern  paper, 
that  reads  right:  "Young  turkey,  split  and 
broiled,  is  more  delicious  than  spring 
chicken.  It  is  a  dish  that  is  very  nicely 
cooked  and  served  under  the  supervision 
of  Mr.  R.  C.  Amos,  the  experienced  and 
judicious  steward  of  the  Revere  House, 
whose  cuisine  is  getting  to  be  much  talked 
about  and  tested." 

That  gives  us  the  impression  that  it  is 
the  steward  that  knows  what  is  good  and 
the  cooks  are  but  the  hands,  while  he  is 
the  head,  that  he  plans  and  they  execute,  all 
of  which  is  in  the  natural  order  of  things 
and  as  it  should  be.  But  a  person  who  sets 
up  to  be  a  steward  without  training  and 
without  study,  and  who  is  beholden  to  the 
cooks  for  his  culinary  information  and  his 
terms  for  the  bill  of  fare,  becomes  little 
more  than  a  tool  in  their  hands.  If  he  does 
not  know  more  than  they,  he  will  not  have 
their  respect,  and  he  will  have  no  real 
authority.  Cooks  generally  are  not  so  dis- 
interested as  to  work  hard  when  they  are 
just  as  free  to  work  easy.  The  chef  can 
make  his  bill  of  fare  so  that  it  will  take  the 
very  best  endeavors  of  all  his  assistants  to 


get  the  dinner  ready  in  time,  or  he  can 
make  it  so  that  there  will  not  be  enough 
work  to  fill  up  the  hours,  for  he  knows 
which  dishes  are  tedious  and  difficult  to 
prepare  and  which  dishes  are  mere  child's 
play  for  their  easiness,  and  if  left  alone  is 
prone  to  make  the  easy  and  commonplace 
dinners  every  day;  he  may  use  canned 
goods  almost  exclusively,  because  they  are 
ready  prepared  and  makes  the  inexperi- 
enced steward  his  errand  boy  to  go  out  con- 
tinually to  buy  him  some  more  ready-made 
goods.  If  a  new  cook  is  brought  into  the 
kitchen  he  is  likely  to  find  a  different  set  of 
utensils  to  work  with,  from  those  he  was 
used  to  in  the  last  place,  and  if  he  finds  the 
steward  inexperienced  and  weak  he  will 
get  him  to  buy  a  new  outfit  for  his  especial 
benefit.  The  cook  in  such  a  case  may  be 
right,  but  it  is  necessary  for  the  steward  to 
know  absolutely  the  merits  and  faults  and 
the  use  of  all  the  different  utensils  that  he 
may  be  the  judge  of  the  needs  in  the  par- 
ticular department,  and  discern  the  differ- 
ence between  a  real  need  and  the  whim  of 
a  cook.  The  steward  who  does  not  know 
this  cannot  take  the  bill-of-fare  writing  out 
of  the  chef's  hands  without  being  met  with 
hundreds  of  objections  to  his  own  bill,  on 
the  grounds  of  there  being  no  suitable  pot 
for  this,  or  pan  for  that,  no  time  to  make 
one  dish  and  no  material  for  another. 

THE  STEWARD  WHO  DOES  NOT  KNOW. 

On  the  other  hand  the  cooks  would  have 
good  cause  for  complaint  against  any 
steward,  inexperienced  in  culinary  affairs, 
who  should  try  to  get  up  the  bill  of  fare. 
There  is  a  character  in  Shakespeare's  Win- 
ters Tale  very  much  like  some  of  these  un- 
finished stewards — says  he:  "Three  pounds 
of  sugar;  five  pounds  of  rice;  rice?  What 
will  this  sister  of  mine  do  with  rice?  But 
my  father  hath  made  her  the  mistress  of 
the  feast  and  she  lays  it  onl  I  must  have 
saffron  to  color  the  warden  pies,  (pear  pies), 
mace,  dates ;  nutmegs  seven,  a  race  or  two 
of  ginger,  (but  that  I  may  beg) ;  four  pounds 
of  prunes,  and  as  many  raisins  of  the  sun." 

The  cooks  are  driven  wild  at  times  by 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


the  immature  steward's  sublime  uncon- 
ciousness  that  all  these  trifles  which  they 
ask  for  are  of  any  sort  of  consequence,  his 
vague  idea  that  any  time  in  the  course  of 
a  month  will  do.  "Turnips  and  carrots? 
what  are  turnips  and  carrots?  common  and 
cheap — I  don't  ever  eat  them,  who  cares 
for  turnips  and  carrots?"  But  the  c/iefc&n 
do  next  to  nothing  without  them.  "Chives, 
shalots,  leeks,  thyme,  what  good  are  they? 
Aniseed?  What  does  the  baker  need  ani- 
seed for,  and  cream  of  tartar,  and  paper 
and  hops  and  potatoes?  I'll  try  to  remem- 
ber them  sometime  when  I  go  down  town." 

But  if  the  chef  cannot  get  a  pound  of 
pork  of  bacon  at  the  proper  time,  he  will 
have  no  larded  fillet,  nor  rice-birds  wrapped 
in  bacon,  and  without  hops  for  yeast  the 
baker  will  have  no  bread.  It  would  be  use- 
less for  an  alleged  steward  of  this  sort  to 
try  to  make  bills  of  fare  for  the  cooks  to 
work  up  to.  But  the  genuine  steward 
knows  what  these  workers  want,  even  better 
than  they  do,  things  that  they  forget  and 
forget  purposely  to  avoid  work. 

The  old  palace  steamboat  stewards  made 
up  their  own  bills  of  fare  without  consult- 
ing the  cooks,  for  they  knew  what  they 
had  in  their  ice  chests  when  the  cooks  did 
not,  and  they  knew  what  they  were  going 
to  have  for  dinner  seven  days  ahead,  and 
the  bills  of  fare  they  sent  to  the  kitchens 
to  be  executed  drove  many  a  cook  to  strong 
drink.  A  few  hotel  stewards  are  now 
evidently  making  up  their  bills  of  fare  un- 
aided and  according  to  ther  own  notions, 
for  their  menus  are  original  in  their  leading 
features.  The  ordinary  practice  now  is  for 
the  chef  and  pastry  cook  each  to  make  out 
his  own  part  of  the  bill  of  fare  and  either 
steward  or  proprietor  looks  it  over,  perhaps 
^rewrites  it,  possibly  suggests  changes,  then 
sends  it  to  the  printer,  but  still  that  bill  is 
the  cook's  and  not  the  steward's.  So,  to 
come  back  to  the  original  question :  "Does 
the  steward  get  up  all  bills  of  fare?"  the 
answer  is  yes,  when  he  is  a  better  man 
than  any  of  the  cooks,  and  the  coming 
steward  will  be  that  and  higher  priced. 


THE     STEWARD    IS    THE   OVERSEER     FIRST 
AND   LAST. 

The  next  proposition  of  our  correspond- 
ent does  not  admit  of  a  straight  yes  or  no, 
either.  It  is:  "It  is  not  th<»  steward's  duty 
or  his  assistants',  to  carry  from  the  carving 
room  and  care  for  the  meats,  etc.,  that  may 
be  left  after  the  dinner  is  over,  that  duty 
belonging  to  the  cook." 

It  is  the  duty  of  the  steward  to  see  that 
nothing  is  wasted,  however  he  may  secure 
that  end,  and  there  is  no  part  of  a  steward's 
duty  more  important  to  the  proper  conduct 
of  a  hotel  than  his  duty  to  stay  in  the 
carving  room  or  kitchen  until  the  meal  is 
over.  Where  a  head  cook  is  doing  his  full 
duty  he  is  unable  to  stay  there  till  the  end; 
his  labor  is  of  a  sort  that  taxes  his  powers 
of  endurance,  he  begins  his  work  early  and 
finds  no  time  for  a  recess  until  dinner  is 
over,  his  own  meals  in  the  early  part  of  the 
day  are  swallowed  in  a  hasty  manner,  his 
mind  being  on  other  matters,  and  he  is  in 
no  condition  to  stand  at  the  carving  table 
two  hours  and  then  stay  till  the  last  watch- 
ing what  may  be  left  over.  It  is  the  cook's 
trade  to  cook  and  serve  the  meals  to  the 
waiters,  the  taking  care  of  the  surplus  de- 
volves upon  somebody  else.  The  actual 
carrying  and  putting  away  may  be  done  by 
the  second  cook  or  the  carver,  but  the 
steward  is  the  director  of  the  matter. 

In  a  paragraph  reprinted  in  a  former  ar- 
ticle on  this  subject  relating  to  a  Saratoga 
hotel  it  is  truly  stated  that  there  has  to  be 
an  exercise  of  liberality  in  apportioning  the 
quantities  to  be  cooked,  so  that  if  fifty  or 
sixty  people  extra  should  arrive  there  will 
still  be  plenty  of  dinner  for  them  all.  But 
if,  on  the  contrary,  the  fifty  or  sixty  do  not 
arrive  it  is  palpable  that  provisions  suffi- 
cient for  that  many  more  are  left  over. 
There  may  be  no  great  harm  in  that  if  the 
steward's  watchful  eye  is  over  all  to  see 
that  the  house  is  not  the  loser,  fo-  such 
things  as  chickens  and  green  peas  and  un- 
cut roasts  of  beef  are  as  good  as  new 
whether  hot  or  cold  for  the  next  meal. 
But  suppose  it  is  the  ordinary  style  of  ho- 
tel where  the  crowd  of  waiters  come  to  the 


THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


15 


carving  room  for  the  remainders  for  their 
own  dinner  (instead  of  being  fed  before  the 
meal  begins)  they  will  "go  for"  the  chicken 
and  green  peas  and  the  uncut  roast  of  beef, 
and  the  other  remainders  when  they  are 
done  will  be  remainders  still.  This  will  be 
the  case  if  the  steward  is  not  present,  be- 
cause the  carver  and  cooks,  even  the  head 
cook,  lack  the  power  to  compel  the  dis- 
charge of  or  to  fine  or  suspend  a  waiter, 
they  have  the  power  only  to  Quarrel  and 
threaten,  be  at  war  with  the  headwaiter 
who  defends  his  own  men,  and  disgrace 
the  house. 

The  way  these  rules  actually  are  com- 
promised and  worked  out  is  this;  The 
steward  who  is  carving  and  the  head  cook 
who  is  dishing  up  entrees  and  watching 
the  demand  upon  his  various  dishes  are 
both  busy  enough  during  the  first  hour  of 
the  meal.  About  that  time  the  business 
slacks  up,  the  orders  come  in  slowly;  the 
steward  says  to  the  cook,  "We  are  not 
going  to  need  that  whole  ham — I  shall  be 
able  to  pull  through  without  cutting  an- 
other roast — that  leg  of  mutton  will  not  be 
wanted."  Then  the  cook  himself,  perhaps, 
or  the  carver  who  will  slice  the  cold  meats 
for  the  next  meal  will  carry  them  off  to 
the  refrigerator.  Later,  when  the  steward 
learns  from  the  headwaiter  that  the  last  of 
the  always-late  people  are  in  the  dining 
room  and  have  been  served  he  takes  a  new- 
survey.  "This  whole  boiled  fish  is  good  for 
a  chowder,  a  fish  soup,  a  dish  of  scalloped 
fish,  a  dish  a  la  Bechamel,  a  fish  salad,  fish 
cakes  or  something  else,  take  it  away  and 
save  it.  That  baked  fish  is  thin,  dry,  will 
be  worthless  when  cold,  you  need  not  keep 
it."  If  the  head  cook  be  still  in  sight  as 
most  likely  he  will  be,  although  not  carv- 
ing and  no  longer  serving  entrees,  the 
steward  calls  him  and  asks  him  if  he  wants 
to  save  anything — and  he  generally  does 
want  to  save  the  consomme — and  if  he  has 
any  stews  or  ragouts  of  his  entrees  to  give 
away — as  he  generally  has — and  these 
things  being  all  understood,  the  carver  and 
vegetable  cook  may  be  left  to  serve  out  all 
that  remains  on  the  carving  stand,  and  the 


second  pastry  cook  to  give  away  the  re- 
mainders of  pudding  and  perishable  sweets. 

THE   STEWARD   AS   A   WORKER. 

Next:  "The  steward  does  no  manual 
labor,  but  is  the  head  and  director  of  all 
matters  pertaining  to  kitchen  and  dining 
room." 

In  reality  the  hotel  steward  who  does  his 
full  duty  is  the  most  hard-working  man  in 
the  house,  if  not  with  his  hands  then  with 
iis  head  and  feet.  But  our  correspondent 
was  thinking  about  a  steward's  personal 
dignity  and  his  keeping  a  dressed-up  ap- 
Dearanee,  and  supposes  that  a  steward 
never  puts  on  an  apron,  nor  has  to  do  any- 
thing that  will  soil  his  hands.  This  is  all 
wrong;  the  steward  never  does  any  menial 
duties,  yet  he  puts  on  an  apron  very  often. 
Even  as  a  buyer  in  bad  weather  the  active, 
energetic  steward,  clad  in  a  rubber  coat, 
slouch  hat  and  heavy  mud-defying  boots, 
does  not  much  resemble  the  parlor  dude 
which  country  hotel  boys  picture  the  great 
bossing  steward  to  be.  But  that  fearlesness 
of  work  does  not  detract  from  his  personal 
dignity,  but  rather  adds  to  it.  The  source 
of  personal  dignity  is  not  in  the  hands,  but 
in  the  eye ;  wealth  alone  cannot  buy  it,  a 
fool  cannot  inspire  respect;  some  rich 
chuckleheads  are  called  "Old  Billy"  or 

Old  Tommy"  on  all  sides  all  their  lives 
in  spite  of  their  unsoiled  clothing.  A  fifty- 
dollar  steward  once  objected  to  the  writer 
against  putting  on  an  apron  and  doing 
some  necessary  thing,  on  the  grounds  that 
if  he  worked  his  help  would  not  respect 
him  any  more  and  he  could  not  then  secure 
their  obedience.  He  was  not  a  bad  man, 
but  there  was  no  mental  or  moral  force  in 
him,  he  had  no  personal  dignity  to  spare 
and  had  to  be  very  stingy  in  the  use  of 
what  little  he  had ;  and  this  poor  man  came 
to  a  very  humiliating  end,  after  all,  for  he 
was  knocked  down  by  the  swill-man  and 
carried  out  by  the  police.  There  was  an- 
other steward  of  a  different  make  who  also 
took  fifty  dollars  because  it  was  all  the 
situation  was  worth  and  the  house  could 
not  afford  to  pay  more,  who  filled  in  his 


16 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


time  voluntarily  as  house  carpenter,  fur- 
niture repairer,  locksmith,  anything  that 
might  happen  to  want  doing,  in  fact,  bought 
for  the  house  and  cut  the  meats,  and  after 
all  put  on  his  good  clothes  and  took  a  four 
hours  watch  as  clerk  in  the  office  to  relieve 
the  proprietor,  who  was  struggling  to  pay 
for  his  house,  and  the  point  of  it  is  that 
whatever  else  might  be  forgot  or  neglected 
that  working  steward,  when  he  came  to  do 
his  carving,  never  failed  to  find  his  snowy 
apron  laid  ready,  his  towel  hanging  on  its 
peg,  his  carving  knife  fresh  ground  and 
whetted,  and  his  chair  placed  for  him  to 
rest,  while  waiting.  He  had  his  help  in 
subjection,  and  had  their  respect  because 
he  was  a  man  of  force  of  character,  no 
matter  what  he  might  choose  to  do.  An- 
other of  these  working  stewards,  another 
one  of  our  New  England  models,  though 
this  one  bears  a  foreign  name,  was  for- 
merly a  steward  in  the  Boston  Brunswick, 
but  the  writer  found  him  in  a  much  smaller 
establishment  where  he  was  at  once  the 
buyer,  the  store-keeper  or  receiver,  to  take 
in,  weigh  and  book  what  he  had  bought,  the 
pantryman,  preparing  and  serving  the  fresh 
fruits  in  good  style,  the  issuer  of  stores, 
the  writer  of  the  bill  of  fare,  the  preparer 
of  the  meats  for  cooking,  then  the  carver 
and  finally  the  keeper  of  the  keys  when  all 
doors  where  closed.  His  was  not  a  time 
of  kid-gloved  ease  and  he  was  well  aware 
of  the  fact,  but  then  it  was  only  of  tem- 
porary duration.  Two  different  owners  of 
large  and  fine  hotels,  hearing  where  he 
was,  went  personally  to  se  him  and  if 
possible  secure  his  services,  and  he  went  to 
one  of  those  houses,  as  soon  as  he  was  at 
liberty,  where  he  again  took  his  position  at 
the  head  of  a  full  force  of  hands.  Men 
of  this  sort  wield  a  power  over  their  subor- 
dinates greater  than  the  non-workers  ever 
can,  because  the  hands  know  the  steward 
can  always  get  along  without  them ;  he  can 
take  hold  and  help  himself  in  a  pinch. 

THE    STEWARD    MANAGES    THE    MEATS. 

Perhaps  the  remaining  proposition  dis- 
closes what  our  correspondent  was  really 


driving  at  in  asking  the  manual  labor 
question,  he  says:  "The  steward's  assistant 
prepares  all  meats  for  cooking,  but  not  the 
steward  personally." 

This  is  one  of  the  dividing  points  be- 
tween the  New  England  type  of  steward 
and  the  nautical  New  York  type.  The 
former  buys  the  meat,  cuts  it  up  (wirh 
assistance  if  necessary)  hands  it  over  to  the 
cooks,  carves  it  after  cooking,  does  every- 
thing except  the  cooking  of  it;  the  other 
does  not  cut  meats,  but  counts  that  the 
cook's  duty  and  has  what  he  calls  a  butcher 
cook  for  that  work. 

The  coming  steward  will  cut  meats,  not 
all  actually,  but  he  will  supervise  the 
assistants  who  do,  he  will  put  the  cut 
meats  away,  carry  the  keys  of  the  refrig- 
erators, and  hand  the  meats  out  to  be 
cooked.  The  modern,  improved,  system- 
atized hotel  organization  is  based  upon  the 
assumption  that  everv  man  is  honest  when 
it  is  to  his  interest  to  be  so,  and  temptations 
and  opportunities  to  be  otherwise  are  re- 
moved from  the  employe's  as  far  as  possible. 
One  employe*  is  made  to  be  a  check  and 
restraint  upon  another  as  far  as  practicable. 
The  steward  buys,  the  store-keeper  receives 
and  gives  receipts,  he  issues  and  charges. 
If  the  cook  sends  an  order  for  meat,  re- 
ceives it,  cuts  and  trims,  cooks,  carves  and 
serves  it,  there  is  no  check  upon  him  ex- 
cept the  uncertain  one  of  the  size  of  his 
daily  bill  at  the  store-room,  nobody  knows 
what  he  has  done  with  the  meat.  But  if 
the  steward,  carrying  the  keys  of  the  re- 
frigerator himself,  cuts  up  the  loins  of  beef 
and  sends  them  ready  cut  to  the  kitchen, 
when  the  tray  is  sept  back  for  more  while 
the  meal  is  going  on,  the  steward  may  say: 
"How  have  you  used  the  meat  I  sent  you? 
I  sent  you  fifty  porterhouse  steaks,  fifty 
tenderloin  steaks  along  with  one  hundred 
common  steaks,  now  you  send  for  more 
choice  steaks  so  early.  What  have  you 
done  with  the  others?  Has  your  broiler 
spoiled  them  in  cooking?  Have  you  allowed 
them  to  be  served  to  persons  not  entitled 
to  them?  Have  you  laid  them  away  in 
reserve  to  sell  to  some  private  favorites? 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


17 


Have  you  chopped  them  up  for  your  con- 
somme instead  of  waiting  and  sending  for 
a  piece  of  coarser  meat?"  Such  questions 
are  never  actually  put  in  words,  but  the 
cook  feels  that  the  steward  may  ask  them 
and  the  consciousness  of  restraint  makes 
him  watch  the  broiler  and  be  more  atten- 
tive to  the  orders  as  they  come. 

As  for  the  dinner  meats,  the  steward 
will  remember  that  he  issued  fifty  pounds 
of  roast  yesterday,  and  twenty  pounds  was 
left  over,  therefore  he  issues  less  to-day, 
and  holds  the  carver  or  cook  responsible 
for  that  which  they  took  charge  of  after 
yesterday's  dinner.  In  this  way  the  stew- 
ard holds  the  reins  of  government  and 
hotel  work  goes  on  with  the  same  precision 
as  if  it  were  a  large  factory.  The  hand 
labor  of  cutting  up  meat  for  hundreds  of 
people  in  a  large  hotel  is  no  small  matter, 
for  in  some  houses  it  keeps  two  active 
hands  busy  from  morning  till  night.  In 
such  cases  the  steward  only  directs  which 
meats  to  use  first,  and  receives  and  locks 
up  the  product  of  the  cutting.  Steaks  and 
chops  have  to  be  prepared  in  the  greatest 
amounts.  It  is  merely  mechanical  work, 
however,  and  easily  learned.  When  a 
young  man  under  the  steward's  instruction 
has  learned  to  cut  one  loin  of  beef  right  he 
has  learned  how  to  cut  all,  if  anything  un- 
usual is  to  be  done  in  the  way  of  boning  or 
trussing  the  cook  will  do  it  himself.  Con- 
sequently, when  the  hotel  has  not  business 
enough  to  require  the  employment  of  a 
meat  cutter  exclusively,  any  apt  hand 
about  the  house  may  be  trained  easily  into 
doing  the  mechanical  part  of  such  work, 
the  head  work  and  managing  not  to  lose 
any  meat  devolving  upon  the  steward. 

STEWARDS    NEEDED    EVERYWHERE. 

These  replies  cover  all  the  points  raised 
by  our  correspondent  except  the  statement 
that  there  are  some  hotels  too  small  to 
employ  a  steward.  Strictly  speaking  there 
are  no  such  hotels.  In  every  hotel  the 
steward's  duties  are  done  after  a  fashion 
by  somebody,  it  would  be  better  if  they 
were  performed  by  a  working  steward  who 


would  fill  up  his  time  as  some  do  by  com- 
bining these  with  other  duties.  The  proper 
combination  is  steward  and  head  cook 
where  there  is  not  work  enough  to  fully 
employ  a  steward.  A  very  common  com- 
bination is  steward  and  headwaiter  being 
oftenest  the  case  where  girl  waiters  are 
employed,  perhaps  from  the  fact  that  where 
male  waiters  find  such  an  arrangement  in 
force  the  smartest  one  soon  sets  himself 
up  as  headwaiter,  and  the  steward  being 
late  or  otherwise  employed  allows  it. 

THE    STEWARD    AND   THE    LANDLADY. 

The  recipe  for  getting  along  amicably 
with  the  proprietor's  wife  has  hitherto  been 
kept  a  profound  secret;  it  is  now  divulged 
and  is  alone  worth  the  price  of  this  book. 
It  is  this:  Make  yourself  thoroughly 
master  of  your  business  before  venturing 
where  the  landlady  is  one  of  the  ruling 
spirits,  after  that  go  in  confidently  and  be 
patient, 

Proprietor's  wives  are  always  prejudiced 
in  advance  against  the  steward  before  he 
comes.  They  fear  that  their  husband's 
importance  is  about  to  be  lessened  by  some- 
body usurping  his  authority;  the  house- 
keeping instinct  in  them  makes  them  ap- 
prehensive that  their  own  prerogatives 
also  are  to  be  interfered  with.  They  believe 
in  advance  that  the  steward  is  but  a  fraud 
and  a  pretender,  and  if  they  can  prove  him 
so  he  must  either  leave  or  lead  a  dog's  life, 
and  not  a  pet  dog's  either.  But  women 
generally  worship  efficiency.  Let  the  new 
steward  show  skill  and  knowledge  superior 
to  her  own,  let  him  stand  between  the 
tricky  traders  and  herself  and  husband,  and 
buy  better  and  cheaper,  bring  the  help  into 
a  state  of  discipline,  have  the  meals  on 
time  and  served  promptly,  and  secure  for 
their  house  more  praise  for  less  outlay  than 
before,  and  the  recalcitrant  landlady  is  soon 
subjugated  and  becomes  of  the  opinion  that 
a  steward  is  the  most  indispensable  adjunct 
to  the  hotel  business  and  she  couldn't  keep 
house  without  one. 

THE     STEWARD   AND    THE     HOUSEKEEPER. 

The  modern  hotel  is  so  far  different 
from  the  ship  and  steamer  that  the  steward 


18 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


does  not  hire  or  discharge  the  housekeeper 
here  as  he  does  the  stewardess  there. 
There  are  a  few  exceptions  among  the 
largest  hotels,  the  few  that  are  conducted 
as  purely  mercantile  establishments  where 
the  proprietor's  family  does  not  reside  in 
the  hotel,  and  one  of  the  two  or  thre  stew- 
ards employed — purchasing  steward,  inside 
steward  or  wine-room  steward — has  ab- 
solute control  over  all  the  employe's  outside 
of  the  office,  but  such  is  not  and  cannot  be 
the  general  practice.  The  hotel  house- 
keeper has  a  domain  of  her  own.  The 
housekeeper,  the  lady  guests  and  proprie- 
tor's wife,  who  are  accustomed  to  look  to 
her  for  attentions,  and  the  linen  and 
laundry  department  are  naturally  affiliated 
together,  and  the  steward  has  no  business 
to  intrude.  He  would  need  more  than  a 
sheriff's  posse  behind  him  who  would  go 
up  stairs  to  discharge  a  housekeeper  whom 
the  landlady  and  lady  guests  liked,  only  to 
put  another  in  her  place  more  suitable  to 
himself.  In  other  words,  the  steward  could 
never  exercise  his  authority  over  the  house- 
keeper if  he  were  invested  with  it,  without 
coming  in  direct  conflict  with  the  proprie- 
tress of  the  house. 

THE    STEWARD   AND   THE    HEADWAITER. 

"Well,  thank  God!  that's  over,"  ex- 
claimed a  head  waiter  as  he  closed  the  din- 
ing-room doors  after  breakfast,  "oh,  but 
they  scorched  me,  they  burnt  me  up! 
There  is  no  steward  out  there.  I  can't  get 
anything  out  of  that  kitchen.  My  waiters 
go  there,  but  never  come  back.  The 
head  cook  does  not  know  whether  he  is  on 
his  head  or  his  feet,  his  men  are  all  rattled, 
and  the  people  tear  me  to  pieces.  I  would 
not  go  through  another  such  season  if  they 
would  give  me  the  house." 

Thus  far  we  have  considered  only  the 
principal  meal  of  the  day,  the  dinner,  in 
relation  to  the  steward's  duties,  but  his 
presence  during  the  progress  of  the  other 
meals  is  no  less  important.  Perhaps  there 
is  no  time  when  his  supervision  is  felt  by 
all  to  be  so  necessary  as  during  breakfast 
the  urgency  of  this  need  is  what  impels 


proprietors  themselves  to  assume  part  of 
he  out-door  duties  that  the  steward  may 
remain  in  the  house;  this  need  is  what  first 
suggests  the  employment  of  an  inside  stew- 
ard when  the  proprietor  cannot  assist.     A 
ood   steward,   a   man   of  force,   can   get 
about  twice  as  much  work  out  of  a  set  of 
.vaiters  as   they  will   do  spontaneously  if 
:hey  are  left  alone.     Although  the  waiters, 
as  a  class,  are  higher  in  the  scale  of  respect- 
ability, there  is  such  a  similarity  of  method 
jetween   the   mate  of  a  steamer  and   his 
crowd  of  deck   hands   filing  past  on  the 
ang  plank  carrying  goods  on  board,  and 
the  inside  steward  urging  the  waiters  along 
during  the  rush  of  the  meal,  that  the  com- 
jarision  is  irresistible.   The  headwaiter  has 
no  business  in  the  kitchen  or  carving  room 
except  to  look  for  his  waiters  when  they 
et  lost,  he  cannot  stay  there  to  see  whether 
they  are  fooling  the  time  away,  or  where 
the  fault  lies.     When  they  pass  beyond  the 
dining  room  doors  they  are  out  of  his  power 
and  he  can  only  wait  till  the  powers  behind 
the  scenes  send  them  in  to  him  again.     And 
iome  waiters  will  "soldier."     One  of  them 
\\ill  see  with  a  side  glance  some  party  com- 
ing in  whom  he  does  not  want  to  wait  upon 
and  he  picks  up  a  dish  from  a  table  and 
darts  off  as  if  he  had  been  sent  for  some- 
thing,  knowing  that  another  waiter  will 
have  been  detailed  to  attend  that  party  be- 
fore he  returns,  and  some  old  dogs  at  the 
business  will  manage  it  so  that  they  never 
have  more  than  one  or  two  orders  at  a  time 
when  they  ought  to  take  six  or  eight.    The 
hotel  might  hire  fifty  or  a  hundred  waiters 
of  this  sort  and  still  never   have  enough. 
It  is  the  business   of   the   steward  to  see 
through  and  frustrate  all  such  tricks,  and 
also  to  help  the  waiters  along  by  seeing  that 
they  are  not  kept  waiting  for  supplies  at 
the  pantry  or  fruit  room,  or  bread  or  toast 
tables,  or  by  the  hot  milk  being  allowed  to 
run  out,  or  by  waiting  for  new  supplies  of 
meat  from  below  that  ought  to  be  brought 
up  in   time,   and  a  hundred   other  trifles 
which    require    forethought,   but    nobody 
thinks  of  but  the  head  man.     Then  there 
are  serious  knots  and  snarls  taking  place 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


19 


in  the  kitchen.  Twenty  waiters  are  wait- 
ing for  their  multifarious  orders  at  once, 
they  grow  vociferous,  the  more  energetic 
thrust  themselves  forward  and  secure  their 
orders  far  in  advance  of  their  turn,  while 
the  quieter  waiter  looses  his  turn  over  and 
over  again,  and  his  family  of  people  in  the 
dining  room  have  the  mortification  of  seing 
people  at  the  next  table,  who  came  in  later, 
receive  their  breakfast  promptly,  eat  it  and 
depart  before  their  own  waiter  even  makes 
his  second  appearance.  The  simple  re- 
straint of  the  steward's  presence  at  such 
a  time  is  often  sufficient  to  quell  the  noise 
and  correct  these  irregularities,  if  not,  he 
insists  on  the  taking  of  regular  turns,  and 
assists  the  cooks  to  know  who  comes  next. 
Under  such  a  supervision  the  meals  are 
served  in  the  least  possible  time,  without 
it  the  results  are  low  quarrels  and  confusion 
worse  confounded,  or,  at  the  best,  when 
the  business  slackens  up  the  kitchen  and 
neighboring  departments  become  a  play 
house. 

THE    STEWARD   AND   HIS    ADVERSARIES. 

The  headwaiter  in  some  hotels  is  a  ver- 
itable Warwick  the  king-maker,  he  can 
oust  the  steward  frequently,  and  cause  a 
change  of  chef  every  month.  This  is  cft- 
enest  the  case  in  what  are  called  family 
hotels.  It  is  necessary  to  have  the  head- 
waiter  under  the  steward's  control,  to  have 
him  hired  or  discharged  by  the  steward  to 
insure  thorough  discipline  and  harmony 
throughout  the  house  and  for  the  interest 
of  the  proprietors  themselves,  for  the  ob- 
vious reason  that  when  the  headwaiter 
knows  that  the  steward,  in  leaving  his 
situation,  will  most  likely  unseat  the  head- 
waiter,  too,  and  the  new  incoming  steward 
will  bring  his  own  man,  he  is  likely,  from 
motives  of  self-interest,  to  help  his  steward 
to  satisfy  the  people  instead  of  pulling  him 
down.  The  steward  in  any  case  has  his 
pleasures  of  wielding  authority  fully  bal- 
lanced  by  the  pains  of  bearing  the  blame 
for  every  untoward  happening  or  defi- 
ciency in  the  hotel.  The  headwaiter,  who 
may  not  be  under  the  direct  control  of  the 


steward,  can  make  things  appear  better  or 
worse  to  the  guests,  as  he  chooses,  and  it 
is  human  nature  to  detract  from  another's 
good  name  rather  than  build  it  up,  and  in 
depreciating  the  character  of  the  steward 
in  the  guests'  estimation,  he  necessarily 
injures  their  estimation  of  the  hotel  and  its 
proprietors. 

The  peculiarity  of  his  position  in  this  re- 
gard is  this :  He  is  always  a  man  of  respect- 
able appearance,  sometimes  quite  a  superior 
man  in  this  respect,  and  must  be  fairly  well 
dressed.  His  manner  is  polite  and  his 
speech  soft;  it  is  his  business  to  be  attentive 
and  appear  solicitous  for  the  comfort  of  the 
guests,  and  if  he  chooses  he  can  become 
on  very  familiar  terms  with  some  of  them, 
particularly  with  those  fond  of  gossipping 
about  the  hotel  which  they  are  making 
their  home,  and  there  is  no  more  fruitful 
subject  for  gossip  than  that  of  the  table  and 
the  illiberality  of  those  responsible  for  its 
furnishing.  Encouragement  from  the  head- 
waiter,  such  as  may  be  conveyed  by  a 
shrug,  a  significant  smile,  a  little  remark 
that  he  is  "sure  the  house  pays  enough  to 
have  the  best"  and  he  "can't  imagine  the 
reason  that  what  comes  in  is  really  so  unfit 
to  set  before  first  class  people,"  soon  leads 
to  the  current  talk  of  the  house  being  that 
the  way  that  hotel  is  conducted  is  a  dis- 
grace to  the  nineteenth  century  civilization, 
and  the  proprietors  becoming  frightened 
discharge  the  steward  and  chef.  Then  the 
harmless-looking  headwaiter  chuckles  in 
his  sleeve  and  softly  says:  "Next!"  This 
is  not  a  fanciful  supposition.  Names  and 
instances  could  be  given.  But  suppose 
tne  headwaiter  is  desirous  of  building  up 
instead  of  pulling  down,  how  he  can 
smooth  over  the  temporary  difficulties, 
softly  excuse  this  thing  being  out  or  that 
expected  delicacy  not  having  arrived  in 
time,  call  attention  to  the  excellency  of  this 
dish,  or  the  novelty  of  that,  and  promise 
something  to  come  next  day! 

THE     STEWARD    AND    THE     STOREKEEPER. 

Under  the  modern  hotel  system  the 
steward  does  not  hire  or  discharge  the 


20 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


storekeeper.  The  storekeeper  is  a  clerk, 
he  represents  the  proprietor  in  the  stoie- 
room,  he  is  employed  or  dismissed  from 
service  by  the  same  authority  that  engages 
the  other  clerks.  If  not  ostensibly,  he  is 
practically  a  check  upon  the  steward  in  the 
proprietor's  interest,  and  is  under  the  con- 
trol of  the  proprietor  direct.  He  receives 
all  goods  purchased  for  the  establishment, 
whether  provisions  or  crockery,  or  other 
furnishings,  or  fuel  or  ice.  He  demands 
an  invoice  with  every  purchase  from  the 
smallest  to  the  largest.  He  counts,  weighs 
or  measures  everything  that  comes  in, 
compares  his  tally  with  the  invoice  or  bill, 
notes  the  quality  and  condition  of  goods 
as  they  come  in,  marks  the  discrepancies, 
if  any,  then  enters  the  actual  weight  or 
number  received  in  his  book,  lying  always 
ready  for  the  purpose,  carries  out  the 
amount  according  to  the  price  per  invoice 
to  his  cash  column  and  files  the  invoice 
or  bill  away  for  future  use.  At  the  end  of 
each  day  he  foots  up  the  total  amount. 
The  hotel  has  a  stated  pay  day  for  staple 
merchandise,  usually  twice  a  month,  and 
the  dealers  on  that  day  send  in  their  bills. 
The  storekeeper  takes  each  bill  and  com- 
pares it  with  his  book,  and  if  the  amounts 
in  each  are  the  same  he  attaches  his  signa- 
ture and  "O.  K.,"  and  the  dealer  then  takes 
it  to  the  cashier  in  the  front  office  who  pays 
it  and  files  away  the  receipt.  If  the  amount 
of  the  bill  presented  is  not  the  same  as  that 
carried  out  in  the  storekeeper's  book  he 
turns  to  the  invoice  or  former  bill  on  file 
and  finds  what  he  wrote  upon  it  when  the 
goods  were  received,  as  so  many  pounds 
short  weight,  so  many  tubs  of  butter  be- 
low the  grade  invoiced,  fifty  per  cent,  of 
eggs  worthless,  so  many  pieces  spoiled,  so 
many  pieces  broken,  etc.,  and  explains  that 
much  to  the  dealer.  The  storekeeper  only 
records  the  facts  and  allows  payment  for 
what  he  actually  receives.  Any  difficulties 
that  arise  in  consequence  are  between  the 
dealer  and  the  steward,  who  must  settle 
them.  When  the  dealer  is  satisfied  his  bill 
as  corrected  is  allowed  and  he  take*  it  to 
the  cashier  to  be  paid.  When  transient 


marketing  is  bought  by  the  steward,  the 
amounts  are  weighed  by  the  storekeeper, 
who  makes  a  bill  of  each  lot,  signs  it,  and 
the  farmer  or  huckster  takes  it  to  the  cash- 
ier's desk  and  receives  payment  at  once. 

THE    STEWARD    AND    HIS    STOREROOM. 

The  steward  is  proud  of  his  well-stocked 
storeroom  and  spends  whatever  leisure 
time  he  may  have  in  it.  In  one  sort  of 
storeroom,  now  found  in  modern-built 
hotels,  the  steward  spends  most  of  his  time 
while  on  duty,  for  from  it  he  can  oversee 
all  that  is  going  on.  The  storekeeper  is  to 
all  intents  and  purposes  the  steward's  own 
clerk,  even  his  private  secretary,  who  saves 
him  a  vast  amount  of  care  and  book-keep- 
ing. Their  relations  are  precisely  that  of 
employer  and  employe  and  they  are  on  the 
most  friendly  terms,  the  trifling  fact  of  the 
storekeeper  being  an  appointee  of  the  front 
office  and  in  a  measure  independent  of  the 
steward  is  perhaps  seldom  thought  of  by 
either. 

There  are  two  different  patterns  of  store- 
room in  use  and  two  different  methods  of 
issuing  stores,  just  as  there  are  two  differ- 
ent classes  of  steward.  The  New  England 
style  of  storeroom  is  in  the  kitchen  itself, 
either  built  so  that  a  part  of  it  like  a  shop 
front  opens  into  the  kitchen  while  the  back 
opens  upon  the  street  where  the  goods  are 
taken  in,  or  the  room  originally  built  as  a 
kitchen  is  partitioned  off  that  part  may 
serve  as  a  storeroom,  and  here  the  store- 
keeper remains  all  day,  serving  out  goods 
to  the  different  departments  as  they  are 
applied  for,  starch  and  soap  to  the  laundry, 
toothpicks,  matches  and  stationary  to  the 
office,  fruit,  cheese,  milk  and  bottled  goods 
to  the  pantry,  lemons  and  sugar  to  the  bar, 
and  all  the  various  articles  except  meats 
needed  by  the  cooks  and  bakers.  He  enters 
all  the  items  in  his  book  and  charges  them 
to  the  various  departments,  and  the  rest 
of  his  time  is  taken  up  in  receiving  stores, 
auditing  accounts  and  taking  account  of 
stock  needed  to  be  ordered  and  once  a 
month  or  oftener  of  the  amount  of  stock 
on  hand.  In  this  storeroom  the  steward 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


21 


remains  airing  breakfast  and  lunch  or 
supper,  ana  such  times  as  he  is  not  carv- 
ing, for  here  he  can  hear  every  order  that 
is  given  and  all  that  goes  on  in  the  kitchen, 
being  ready  to  step  out  if  any  difficulty 
arises  or  any  special  rush  of  business,  and 
while  there  he  writes  his  letters  to  mer- 
chants and  supply  men,  looks  over  his  ac- 
counts, posts  up  his  books,  notes  down  the 
orders  for  supplies  suggested  by  the  store- 
keeper, and  keeps  count  of  the  changes 
among  the  help,  filling  out  a  blank  for 
each  and  handing  it  in  to  the  cashier.  One 
of  our  model  stewards  passes  the  most  of 
his  time  that  way,  there  being  no  local 
marketing  to  do  in  his  locality,  and  nearly 
all  orders  for  goods  having  to  be  sent  by 
mail  or  telegraph.  He  has  a  little  box  of 
an  office  in  the  corner  of  the  storeroom 
that  is  less  than  four  feet  from  the  kitchen 
table,  and  all  that  is  ordered  at  the  store- 
room counter  he  hears,  and  sees,  if  he  cares 
to,  where  it  goes.  This  may  not  be  per- 
fectly admirable.  Perhaps  neither  the 
reader  of  this  nor  the  writer  would  like  to 
work  under  such  close  surveillance,  yet  it 
shows  to  what  a  point  systematic  hotel- 
keeping  has  been  brought  In  this  instance, 
fortunately,  the  ever  present  steward  is  an 
amiable  man,  and  if  he  sees  his  workers  in 
their  easy  moments  he  also  is  with  them 
when  the  crowd  is  in  and  he  knows  how 
well  they  earn  their  money.  The  defect 
in  this  style  of  storeroom  is  in  its  requiring 
the  storekeeper  to  be  always  present,  and 
the  hotel  has  to  be  of  a  large  size  to  afford 
one  hand  for  that  one  duty.  The  intention 
under  that  system  is  that  the  cooks  shall 
never  have  in  posession  more  material  than 
they  need  immediately,  and  it  is  easy  for 
them,  for  the  storekeeper  becomes  in  effect 
a  waiter  to  hand  trifling  amounts  to  them 
continually.  On  the  other  hand  the  cook 
can  complain  that  he  has  no  check  upon 
the  storekeeper  when  the  order  system  is 
dispensed  with,  for  he  may  draw  fifty 
pounds  and  the  storekeeper  hating  him 
may  enter  in  his  book  seventy-five  pounds, 
and  so  injure  the  cook  by  the  apparant 
extravagance  of  his  bills.  By  the  other 


system  the  cook  sends  a  written  order  to 
the  storeroom  for  material  and  keeps  a 
duplicate  of  the  order  himself,  so  that  in 
case  of  an  accusation  of  extravagance, 
which  may  loose  him  his  situation  and  his 
character,  he  can  appeal  to  his  duplicate 
orders  to  see  whether  he  has  been  mis- 
represented. The  method  of  ordering  and 
issuing  supplies  from  the  other  style  of 
storeroom,  distant  from  the  kitchen,  is 
fully  detailed  in  another  place.  The  de- 
fect of  that  system  consists  in  the  propens- 
ity of  the  cooks  to  order  too  much  at  once ; 
having  a  day's  supply  on  hand  and  such 
apparent  plenty,  they  use  the  material 
more  lavishly  than  if  it  is  counted  to  them 
pound  by  pound.  A  competent  steward 
knows  how  to  remedy  the  defects  in  either 
case,  and  there  is  not  much  preference  to 
be  given  to  one  style  over  the  other.  It 
will  be  understood  that  the  written  order 
system  can  be  operated  as  well  in  the  open 
storeroom  adjoining  the  kitchen,  but,  as  it 
is  so  much  easier  and  quicker  to  do  with- 
out an  order,  it  rarely  or  never  is. 

THE    STEWARD  AND   THE  CARE   OF  MEATS. 

Take  care  of  the  meat,  all  the  rest  will 
take  care  of  itself.  It  seems  most  shocking 
to  people  in  general  to  waste  bread  because 
such  has  been  the  teaching  oi  their  child- 
hood, but  where  abundance  of  other  things 
besides  bread  is  in  hand,  as  in  our  hotels, 
the  expense  of  meat  makes  that  of  most 
other  items  seem  insignificant  by  com- 
parison. 

In  order  to  realize  how  like  the  wasting 
away  of  meat  is  to  that  of  a  block  of  ice  in 
the  sun  it  has  to  be  considered  that  only 
prime  cuts  of  the  carcass  are  selected  in  the 
first  place.  These,  under  the  latest  im- 
proved system,  are  subjected  to  a  preserv- . 
ing  process,  being  dipped  in  a  solution  of 
which  the  composition  is  at  present  a  secret, 
and,  whether  so  treated  or  not,  are  dried, 
chilled  and  sometimes  even  frozen  in  a 
cold-blast  refrigerator,  then  wrapped  in 
several  coverings  of  paper,  packed  in  hogs- 
heads and  shipped  by  rail  or  steamer  to  all 
parts  of  the  country,  usually  reaching  the 


22 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


destination,  which  may  be  a  thousand 
miles  away,  still  in  a  semi-frozen  condition. 
Still,  this  meat,  when  it  reaches  the  hotel 
meat-cutter's  block,  is  only  raw  material. 
There  is  the  bone  to  be  taken  out,  that  is 
from  one-fourth  to  one-third  of  its  weight 
gone;  there  is  the  outside  to  be  pared  off; 
there  is  the  inevitable  loss  of  weight  in 
cooking;  there  is  the  risk  of  loss  through 
the  negligence  of  cooks ;  then  the  cooking 
of  too  great  a  quantity  and  having  it  left 
over  with  the  chances  doubled  that  what  is 
so  left  over  will  not  be  useful  any  more, 
and  will  be  entirely  lost.  That  is  all  under 
the  most  favorable  circumstances. 

But  the  times  that  try  a  steward's  effi- 
ciency are  the  unfavorable  times  when  the 
meat  arrives  in  bad  condition,  when  the 
weather  suddenly  turns  warm  while  the 
hotel  meat  house  is  full  of  meat,  or  the 
number  of  people  to  be  fed  suddenly  di- 
minishes before  the  stock  on  hand  can  be 
worked  off;  and  other  unfavorable  times 
are  those  in  a  resort  hotel  where  the 
weather  is  most  trying  and  the  supplies  are 
irregular,  there  being  at  one  time  two  or 
three  carcasses,  and  barrels  of  poultry  to  be 
taken  care  of  at  once,  and  then  nothing 
fresh  for  several  days.  The  thorough 
steward  is,  however,  equal  to  the  task  of 
meeting  all  these  difficulties  and  makes  of 
them  no  difficulties  at  all,  when  the  un- 
trained and  inexperienced  man  stands  help- 
less, blames  the  weather  and  has  the  whole 
hotel,  the  kitchen,  carving  room  and  dining 
room  for  days  in  succession  full  of  the 
sickening  odor  of  tainted  meat 

Here  is  an  instance  of  the  employment 
of  steward's  common  sense  which  may 
prove  serviceable.  A  hotel  man  finding, 
himself  out  of  employment  at  the  end  of  a 
summer  season,  bought  the  dining  car 
privilege  on  a  train  carrying  a  very  large 
excursion  party  out  to  an  interesting  part 
of  the  country  on  the  newly  built  railroad. 
It  was  the  last  week  in  September,  oysters 
in  season,  but  still  dear.  The  man  loaded 
up  with  oysters,  raw,  soldered  tight  in  cans, 
which  came  by  express  packed  in  ice. 
There  was  every  prospect  that  the  oysters 


would  prove  the  favorite  dish  with  the 
excursionists  and  he  would  soon  sell  out 
his  stock,  and  such  might  have  been  the 
case  had  the  weather  remained  cool,  but  it 
changed  to  summer  heat  again  and  oysters 
were  not  in  demand,  and,  next,  the  train 
ran  into  a  lot  of  game,  which  interested 
the  passengers  and  kept  them  feasting  until 
their  return  home.  The  hotel  man's  cases 
of  oysters  remained  on  hand,  still  in  ice, 
but  highly  perishable  stock.  A  man  less 
accustomed  to  the  care  of  provisions  might 
have  sold  a  few  of  them  to  the  restaurants 
at  a  greatly  reduced  price  and  have  lost  the 
rest,  but  our  steward  packed  the  cans  in  an 
ice  chest  in  a  layer  of  broken  ice  and  salt, 
more  ice  and  salt  on  top,  more  cans  on 
that  and  more  of  the  freezing  mixture  on 
top  of  them,  and  the  oysters  were  half 
frozen  in  the  cans  and  could  have  been 
kept  for  weeks,  but  as  the  spell  of  warm 
weather  had  prevented  the  dealers  from 
ordering  any  for  a  few  days,  the  steward's 
frozen  stock  was  all  there  was  in  town  and 
he  retailed  them  out  at  a  good  profit.  An- 
other example:  A  new  steward  went  to  a 
citv  hotel  in  the  trying  time  of  midsummer 
and  found  that  tainted  meat  served  at  table 
was  the  rule  rather  than  the  exception,  and 
the  waste  of  meat  which  became  totally 
unfit  for  use  with  amazing  rapidity  was 
enormous.  He  took  the  meat  out  of  the 
refrigerator,  where  they  were  keeping  it, 
altogether.  He  had  a  long  discarded  ice 
chest  cleaned  out  and  a  draining  rack  of 
cross  pieces  laid  in  the  bottom.  He  placed 
his  loins  and  wasts  of  beef  and  quarters  of 
mutton  on  that.  He  bought  sheets  of  light 
canvas  and  laid  one  clean  washed  on  top 
of  the  meat,  and  on  the  canvas  he  spread 
plenty  of  ice.  On  the  ice  again  he  placed 
his  smaller  meats,  lambs,  poultry,  tongues, 
sweatbreads,  covering  them  with  a  sheet 
of  canvas,  and  that  again  with  ice  and  closed 
it  down.  Every  second  day  he  unloaded 
the  ice  chest,  placed  the  newly  killed  meats 
at  the  bottom,  to  remain  there'  and  season 
and  become  tender,  and  the  old  stock  on 
top  to  be  used  next,  and  refilled  the  box 
with  ice  and  occasionally  had  the  canvas 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


23 


sheets  washed  and  bleached.  This  going 
back  to  the  old  fashioned  ice  chest  looked 
like  retrogression,  for  the  upright  refrig- 
erator, where  meat  may  hang  up  and  keep 
dry  in  a  cold  atmosphere,  is  the  later  im- 
provement, but  the  requirements  of  differ- 
ent places  are  different  and  it  all  defends 
upon  hc~v  the  refrigerator  is  used,  whether 
it  is  the  best  preserver  of  meat  or  not.  In 
this  case  there  was  no  more  loss  from 
spoiled  meat ;  there  was  scarcely  another 
pound  thrown  away  that  summer.  Meat 
kept  in  ice  is  wet  and  in  danger  of  becom- 
ing soaked  and  divested  of  some  of  its 
juices  and  fine  flavor,  but  when  the  other 
alternative  is  a  hot  weather  taint  and  the 
greenness  of  incipient  decomposition,  the 
ice  box  method  is  infinitely  preferable. 

One  more  instance  of  very  recent  oc- 
currence may  prove  instructive:  A  large 
new  hotel  was  finished  up  and  furnished 
with  great  liberality,  as  regarded  the  ex- 
pense, the  desire  on  the  part  of  the  owners 
being  to  have  everything  right,  the  cost  of 
it  being  only  a  secondary  consideration. 
The  refrigerator  meat  house  was  therefore 
built  of  large  capacity.  The  upper  part 
would  hold  a  car  load  of  ice  at  once,  the 
lower  or  meat  room  was  a  good  sized 
butcher's  shop,  large  enough  both  for  stor- 
age of  a  good  lot  of  meat,  and  for  barrels  and 
boxes  besides,  and  still  had  room  left  for 
men  to  work  in.  Yet,  when  the  trying 
time  of  blazing  hot  days  and  sultry  nights 
came  the  refrigerator  utterly  failed  of  its 
purpose  and  the  meats  spoiled  in  it  with 
frightful  rapidity,  the  choicest  and  costliest 
imported  roasts  and  loins  having  to  be 
thrown  away  by  the  hundreds  of  pounds 
at  a  time.  This  was  largely  owing  to  the 
incapacity  of  the  cook,  but  the  immediate 
cause  was  the  too  frequent  opening  of  the 
refrigerator  both  at  top  and  bottom,  the 
general  arrangements  being  insufficient  for 
the  needs  of  the  house,  and  the  one  large 
receptacle  being  made  a  place  of  half-hourly 
traffic.  Hot  air  was  admitted  every  time 
the  door  was  opened  and  the  ice  sometimes 
was  diminished  to  a  small  quantity,  hence 
the  meat  spoiled  quicker  than  if  it  had 


never  been  chilled  at  all.  The  remedy 
applied  in  this  case  was  the  removal  of 
everything  but  the  fresh  meats  and,  there 
being  no  other  ice  house,  the  providing  of 
a  pile  of  blocks  of  ice  buried  in  sawdust 
outside,  to  be  drawn  from  for  every  other 
purpose,  and  the  refrigirator  was  then  kept 
strictly  closed  spite  of  all  excuses  and 
reasons  to  the  contrary,  and  then  it  proved 
effective  for  its  purpose. 

The  steward  who  has  meats  to  manage 
that  are  not  select  and  not  shipped  in  to 
him  ready  trimmed  avoids  loss  by  attend- 
ing to  the  selection  at  once  as  soon  as  it 
arrives.  He  has  the  shanks,  flanks,  necks 
and  breasts  cut  off  and  consigned  while 
fresh  and  untainted  to  the  soup  boiler,  to 
the  salt  beef  barrel,  to  stews  and  meat  pies, 
holding  back  live  poultry  and  things  that 
will  keep  till  these  perishable  goods  are 
used  up,  and  packs  away  the  choice  cuts 
in  refrigerators  or  ice  boxes  in  which  there 
is  plenty  of  room  and  of  ice  through  the 
roughness  having  been  first  disposed  of. 

The  other  possible  sources  of  loss  of 
meat,  which  the  steward  has  to  watch,  are 
the  great  stock  boiler,  the  cook's  roaring 
fire,  the  gaping  swill  barrel  and  the  surrep- 
titious back  door  basket.  Of  these  the 
stock  boiler  is  the  most  ravenous  and  con- 
sumes the  house's  substance  with  the  most 
harmless  and  innocent  expression  of  coun- 
tenance and  the  most  plausible  excuses 
and  the  promise  to  give  it  all  back,  which 
it  seldom  does.  The  roaring  fire  may  be 
satisfied  to  take  tainted  or  dirty  meat,  the 
swill  barrel  will  be  content  with  cold 
cooked  joints,  but  the  hungry  stock  boiler 
will  consume  a  hundred  pounds  of  the 
freshest  meat  and  relieve  the  cook  of  all 
trouble  of  working  it  up,  and  then  return 
nothing  but  a  consomme  which  nobodv 
cares  for,  and  which  will  be  rejected  even 
in  the  officers'  dining  room  where  it  is  that 
or  none. 

THE    STEWARD   AND    HIS    MANAGEMENT 
OF    HELP. 

A  new  steward  cannot  get  along  with 
old  help.  Such  is  the  rule.  The  old  hands 


24 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


all  think  they  know  more  than  he  possibly 
can  know,  they  do  not  want  to  do  new 
ways,  they  feel  disposed  to  tell  him,  he  be- 
ing a  stranger,  how  they  do  and  how  he 
ought  to  do,  instead  of  looking  to  him  for 
direction.  When  the  old  hands  are  good 
and  worth  keeping  the  proper  way  to  do  is 
to  call  them  up,  one  at  a  time,  offer  to  pay 
them  off  and  turn  them  over  to  the  new 
steward,  for  him  to  hire  them  over  again 
if  he  wants  them  and  if  they  want  to  re- 
main. It  may  be  productive  of  temporary 
inconvenience  to  have  any  of  them  leave, 
but  it  is  far  better  in  the  long  run,  for  it  is 
a  formal  investment  of  the  new  officer  with 
his  proper  authority,  without  which  he  can 
not  run  the  back  part  of  the-house  accord- 
ing to  his  best  ability.  When  a  head  cook 
leaves  his  second  expects  to  leave,  too,  or 
be  discharged;  only  a  few  exceptional  men 
in  that  position  ever  remain  without  the 
formality,  at  least,  of  being  paid  off  and  be- 
ginning anew  under  the  new  head  cook. 
So  in  the  case  of  a  new  steward ;  the  head 
cook  and  headwaiter  expect  that  their  situ- 
ations will  be  wanted  for  new  men  of  the 
steward's  own,  and  if  they  are  expected  to 
remain  it  is  best  to  go  through  the  same 
formality  with  them  and  let  them  all  begin 
anev.  In  most  cases  where  a  new  steward 
comes  in  it  is  to  be  inferred  that  either 
there  was  no  steward  employed  there  be- 
fore, or  else  there  has  been  laxity  of  ad- 
ministration or  corruption  or  misdoing 
which  has  led  to  the  change  being  made. 
Then  it  is  most  desirable  all  around  that 
"a  clean  sweep"  should  be  made.  Let  the 
really  good  hands  come  back  after  a  time 
and  be  hired  over  again.  This  rule  is  good 
and  even  necessary,  as  has  been  observed 
already  in  the  case  of  the  headwaiter,  for 
if  each  hand's  place  depends  upon  the  dur- 
ation in  office  of  the  steward,  each  one  will 
be  more  likely  to  uphold  him  and  his  rules 
than  to  oppose  him. 

As  a  measure  of  defense  when  he  is  but 
one  against  so  many,  the  steward  keeps 
other  hands  in  view  continually.  Perhaps 
he  finds  it  convenient  to  keep  in  communi- 
cation with  an  employment  agency,  more 


especially  for  the  finding  of  the  commoner 
sort  of  help,  who  are  alway  changing  their 
situations. 

He  does  not  seek  to  be  popular  with  his 
help.  It  is  not  good  business  policy  for  the 
steward,  or  head  cook  either,  to  let  the  help 
praise  them  too  much.  The  head  cook  is 
a  little  less  bound,  he  may  let  his  men  have 
a  half  day  off  by  turns,  considering  that 
they  have  no  Sunday,  but  the  steward  can 
not  afford  to  make  any  such  concessions 
of  his  own  accord.  The  least  familiarity 
leads  the  help  to  ask  favors  in  food  or  holi- 
days, or  drawing  pay  out  of  pay  times,  and 
if  the  steward  yields  in  any  case  his  power 
is  broken. 

He  decides  according  to  the  kind  and 
style  of  hotel  whether  the  waiters  shall 
have  their  meals  in  their  special  dining 
room  before  the  guests'  meal  time  arrives, 
or  whether  they  shall  eat  after  the  meals 
are  over,  he  also  fixes  the  time  for  meals 
for  all  the  other  hands,  then  posts  up  the 
rules  and  the  notice  with  them  that  they 
will  loose  their  meals  if  they  do  not  come 
within  half  an  hour  of  the  time  specified. 
The  steward,  after  consulting  the  cook, 
fills  out  a  printed  blank  bill  of  fare  each 
day  for  the  officers'  dining  room,  which 
takes  in  at  hs  several  tables  the  clerks, 
housekeeper,  linen  keeper,  engineers,  car- 
penter, barkeepers  and  various  others.  If 
there  are  two  soups,  this  bill  of  fare  has  one 
allotted  to  it,  fish,  perhaps,  and  one  or  two 
kinds  of  meat,  and  in  all  about  half  the 
variety  which  goes  to  the  guests,  and  all 
expensive  extras  are  omitted.  A  similar 
selected  bill  of  fare  is  allotted  to  the  nurses 
and  children's  ordinary.  As  regards  the 
discharge  of  the  hands  under  the  head  cook 
and  headwaiter,  the  steward  who  sees  they 
are  idle,  inefficient,  or  not  longer  needed 
requests  the  head  cook  or  headwaiter  re- 
spectively to  dismiss  them,  and  it  is  ex- 
pected that  they  will  at  once  comply  with 
the  request  since  it  is  but  a  matter  of  cour- 
tesy to  them.  But  for  all  flagrant  offences 
such  as  drunkenness,  using  profane ,  and 
obscene  language,  gambling  within  the 
house,  insulting  females,  insolence  to 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


25 


guests  and  patrons  of  the  house  and  the 
like,  the  steward  instantly  discharges  any 
hand  without  ceremony.  Fines  are  im- 
posed in  some  cases  for  minor  delinquen- 
cies and  under  some  circumstances  the 
direlict  hands  are  suspended  from  employ- 
ment and  thrown  upon  their  own  expenses 
temporarily. 

It  is  the  steward's  duty  to  ask  of  every 
strange  face  that  appears  is  his  depart- 
ments why  it  is  there,  to  watch  that  no 
idlers  are  admitted  and  to  be  sure  that 
every  hand  hired  is  at  once  entered  in  his 
book ;  name,  for  what  purpose  employed, 
wages,  date.  A  copy  of  this  memorandum 
he  transfers  to  a  printed  blank  and  hands 
it  in  to  the  cashier.  When  a  hand  is  to  be 
paid  off,  he  fills  out  another  printed  blank, 
with  date,  name,  time  due — that  is,  not  days, 
but  such  a  part  of  a  month  at  so  much  per 
month — occupation,  or  what  class  of  service 
the  money  is  paid  for,  signs  it  as  steward 
and  sends  the  hand  with  it  to  the  cashier's 
desk  to  be  paid. 

THE    STEWARD  AND  THE  HANDS'  PAY  DAY. 

All  rules  are  off  where  there  is  no  re- 
gular pay  day.  The  hotel  that  is  in  debt 
to  the  help  is  in  a  bad  way;  they  break 
away  from  the  restraints  of  dicipline,  work 
but  to  suit  themselves  and  always  have  it 
in  mind  to  say :  "If  I  don't  suit  you  pay 
me  off!"  and  in  such  a  house  the  steward 
has  no  business. 

The  good  hotel  rule  is  to  have  a  set  dav 
each  month  when  the  wages  due  is  handed 
to  each  and  every  employe  of  the  house  in 
a  sealed  envelope,  superscribed  with  the 
individual's  name  and  the  amount  of  the 
contents.  Most  hotels  pay  on  the  tenth 
of  the  month,  paying  up  to  the  first  and 
holding  back  ten  days'  pay  until  the  hand 
leaves  finally  and  then  the  ten  days  reserve 
is  paid.  Some  proprietors  choose  the  fifth 
for  pay  day,  keeping  back  only  five  days' 
pay;  a  few  choose  the  fifteenth,  keeping 
back  half  a  month.  Some  of  the  largest 
hotels,  however,  have  two  pay  days  each 
month,  as  the  thii  d  and  seventeenth,  or  fifth 
and  twentieth.  For  several  reasons  the  tenth 


of  the  month  is  the  best  day,  and  the  ten 
days'  pay  always  retained  till  the  hand 
leaves  is  sufficient  restraint.  Were  the 
employe's  paid  up  in  full  they  would  fre- 
quently leave  the  hotel  without  a  word  of 
notice.  If  paid  on  the  fifth  they  frequently 
sacrifice  the  five  days  pay  due  them  in  order 
to  get  away  without  giving  notice,  or  find- 
ing a  substitute  to  take  their  place.  When 
finally  paid  off  by  the  steward  the  ten  days' 
reserved  pay  very  frequently  is  all  they 
have  saved  to  live  upon  until  they  find 
new  employment,  and  its  retention  until 
such  a  time  is  a  real  benefit  to  them. 

On  the  morning  of  the  pay  day,  or  on 
the  day  before  in  a  large  hotel,  the  steward 
looks  over  his  time  book,  notes  time  lost 
by  absence,  by  sickness,  fines,  money  drawn 
(which  can  only  be  drawn  through  another 
blank  filled  out  by  the  steward),  and  any 
other  remark ;  sets  down  the  amount  due 
against  each  name,  with  particulars,  and 
hands  the  list  to  the  cashier,  who  compares 
and  corrects  his  own  books  accordingly, 
and  at  a  convenient  time  the  help  are 
ordered  to  go  to  the  cashier's  window  all 
at  once  and  .are  paid,  the  steward  standing 
by  to  identify  each  one  if  necessary.  In 
the  smaller  hotels,  however,  the  steward 
or  a  clerk  goes  around  and  hands  the  en. 
velopes  to  the  owners  without  their  having 
to  leave  their  work. 

THE   STEWARD   AND   THE   CLERKS. 

The  steward,  having  to  count  the  cost  of 
meals,  cannot  make  up  his  estimates,  nor 
complete  his  accounts,  without  a  daily  house 
count  from  the  office  made  up  as  is  fully 
detailed  in  this  book  in  another  place.  He 
therefore  applies  to  the  clerks  for  such 
house  count,  not  as  a  favor,  but  as  his  right 
and  their  duty.  Usually  the  night  clerk 
makes  the  count  before  breakfast,  if  he  fails 
the  steward  applies  to  the  chief  clerk  to 
have  the  remissness  corrected.  It  is  the 
duty  of  the  chief  clerk  or  the  proprietor,  as 
the  case  may  be,  to  notify  the  steward  oi 
the  expected  arrival  of  any  unusual  num- 
ber of  people  to  be  entertained  that  he  may- 
provide  accordingly,  and  in  like  manner  to 


26 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


•warn  him  of  the  departures  that  he  may 
reduce  his  kitchen  estimates  in  proportion. 

THE    STEWARD    AND   THE    PROPRIETOR. 

"And  what  shall  /  be  doing  all  this 
time!"  some  proprietor  will  ask,  who  has 
read  thus  far.  Well,  there  was  once  a  very 
handsome  and  popular  hotel  proprietor, 
whom  the  writer  knew,  sitting  on  the 
piazza  among  his  guests  and  one  of  them 
asked  him  about  something  in  the  back  of 
the  house  and  why  he  had  it  so.  "Well, 
sir,"  said  the  proprietor,  "I  have  a  steward, 
an  excellent  man,  and  very  capable,  to 
attend  to  all  those  matters,  and  I  think  I 
build  up  my  business  better  and  make  more 
money  by  remaining  in  front  and  looking 
after  the  comfort  and  pleasures  of  my 
guests,  than  I  could  by  hiding  myself  away 
in  the  interior  and  leaving  you  all  to  the 
small  share  of  attention  you  would  get 
from  the  over-worked  clerks.  Whatever 
is  worth  doing  is  worth  doing  well.  I  give 
my  steward  entire  charge  of  the  inside  of 
the  house  and  do  not  interfere  with  him, 
and  I  take  entire  charge  of  the  front  my- 
self." There  was  nothing  very  striking  in 
this  reply,  but  it  outlines  the- chief  duty  of 
the  proprietor  to  himself  as  he  understood 
it.  Very  few  men  are  adapted  by  nature 
to  be  at  once  a  genial  host  in  the  front  and 
an  austere  disciplinarian  inside  the  house. 
At  present,  it  is  true,  a  great  number  of 
proprietors  are  performing  the  more  re- 
sponsible part  of  the  steward's  duties,  be- 
cause they  have  no  steward,  and  the  head 
cook  is  trying  to  do  the  rest.  The  effect 
will  be  when  every  hotel  has  its  real  stew- 
ard in  his  proper  place  that  there  will  be 
fewer  managers,  assisstant  managers,  clerks 
and  men  of  mixed  duties,  there  will  be  more 
cooks  and  fewer  chefs. 

The  relation  of  the  hotel  steward  to  the 
landlord  is  the  same  now  as  the  land  stew- 
ard of  scriptural  days  >\  as  to  the  land  owner ; 
he  gives  an  account  of  his  stewardship. 

Under  the  modern  hotel  system  the 
steward  comes  to  the  proprietor's  private 
office  with  his  books  or  transcripts  of  them 
In  hand  and  shows  what  it  is  costing  per 


meal  and  per  day  to  run  the  house  in  its 

present  style.   His  accounts,  properly  kept, 

show  at  a  glance: 

How  many  people  were  in  the  hous*:  to-day. 

How  many  meals  where  served. 

How   much   value  of   material   the   meat 

cook  used. 

How  much  the  pastry  cook  used. 
How  much  the  pantry  man  or  woman  used. 
How  much  the  head  laundress  used. 
How  much  the  office  force  used. 
How  much  the  barkeeper  used. 
How  much  these   amounts  are   above  or 

below  the  average. 

How  much  per  meal  it  cost  for  all  hands. 
How  much  it  cost  for  the  guests. 
Cash  value  of  stock   in   store   room   this 

night. 

THE  INSIDE  STEWARD'S  SPECIAL  DUTIES. 

Where  there  is  too  much  work  for  one 
steward  two  are  employed.  The  purchas- 
ing steward  not  having  time  to  remain  in 
the  kitchen  and  carving  room  during  the 
two  or  three  hours  of  each  meal  the  inside 
steward  steps  in.  The  duties  are  not  differ- 
ent from  what  has  been  already  detailed, 
but  they  are  divided  between  two  and  the 
inside  is  the  second,  if  one  must  rank  the 
other,  the  purchasing  steward  having 
charge  of  the  accounts  and  the  cost  per 
meal  and  per  day  of  running  the  house, 
while  the  inside  steward  has  immediate 
control  of  the  kitchen  and  dining  room. 
The  special  need  of  an  inside  steward  is 
most  apparent  when  a  hotel  has  a  number 
of  private  dinners,  suppers  and  banquets  to 
get  up  as  a  part  of  the  regular  business. 
Then  the  inside  steward  is  the  one  to  be  con- 
sulted upon  the  subject  of  the  menu  for  each 
occasion.  He  is  required  to  be  acquainted 
with  all  dishes,  wines  and  the  etiquette  of 
the  table.  He  decides  the  choice  of  viands, 
knowing  which  are  in  season  and  which 
are  most  suitable  for  the  time,  due  regard 
being  had  to  the  amount  of  money  the 
purchaser  wishes  to  spend.  The  inside 
steward  is  more  than  a  headwaiter  and 
supersedes  him  in  many  cases,  for  the  in- 
side steward  enters  the  dining  room  and 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


27 


has  the  private  dinners  served  under  his 
own  supervision  and  management. 

THE    WINE-ROOM    STEWARD'S    SPECIAL 
DUTIES. 

Wine  stewards  are  employed  in  hotels 
where  a  large  bar  and  banquet  business  is 
done.  It  is  the  duty  of  this  steward  to  have 
his  store-room  open,  very  much  like  the 
kitchen  store-room,  during  meal  times 
and  be  ready  to  hand  out  the  bottled  wines, 
liquors,  ales,  mineral  waters,  etc.,  to  the 
waiters,  according  to  the  orders  written  on 
the  cards  and  signed  by  the  headwaiter, 
which  they  bring  to  him.  He  buys  wines, 
etc.,  for  the  house  by  the  barrel  and  bottles 
them  ;  perhaps  rectifies,  mixes,  compounds, 
bottles  and  labels  various  spirits  and  cor- 
dials. He  issues  supplies  to  the  bar  and 
books  the  amounts  the  same  as  the  store- 
keeper issues  material  to  the  kitchen,  and 
he  issues  to  the  store-room  supplies  of 
liquors  to  be  used  in  cooking,  and  wines 
and  beer  allowed  to  the  cooks  for  their 
meals,  where  such  is  the  rule,  and  charges 
the  same  to  kitchen  store-room  like  any 
outside  merchant.  He  also  has  charge  of 
the  cigars  and  tobacco  for  the  bar.  He 
mixes  and  sends  up  from  his  cellars  ready 
for  use  the  champagne  cups,  claret  cups, 
punches  and  the  like  required  for  the  priv- 
ate parties  taking  place  in  the  house,  and 
sends  the  bill  of  the  amount  at  once  to  the 
cashier  to  be  charged  in  the  guests'  bills. 

THE    STEWARD    AND   THE    DAIRY. 

The  steward  having  in  charge  the  fur- 
nishing of  the  table  is  responsible  for  the 
quality  of  the  milk  and  for  the  furnishing 
of  cream  for  the  coffee,  oatmeal  and  berries, 
etc.,  holding  somebody  .else  responsible  to 
him.  It  is  good  for  the  hotel,  its  table  and 
reputation  when  it  has  a  regular  dairy  de- 
partment in  connection  with  the  proper 
conveniences  and  a  dairy  woman  to  attend 
to  it  Where  such  is  not  the  pleasant  state 
of  affairs  the  steward  establishes  rules  of 
management  of  the  daily  supply  of  milk 
furnished  to  the  hotel  to  such  effect  that 
the  cream  from  it  will  be  secured  for  the 
coffee,  making  the  purchase  of  cream  so 
much  the  lighter  expense,  and  allowing 


only  the  skimmed  milk  to  be  used  for  culi- 
nary purposes.  Generally  some  hand  can 
be  found  among  those  already  employed 
who  has  a  special  aptitude  for  taking  care 
of  the  milk.  Sometimes  it  is  the  pantry 
girl,  sometimes  the  coffee  maker  or  the 
storekeeper. 

THE    STEWARD    AND   THE    DISH-ROOM. 

The  steward  is  directly  responsible  (hold- 
ing somebody  else  responsible  to  himself) 
for  the  appearance  of  the  crockery  and 
glassware  as  it  goes  to  table.  The  dishes, 
cups  and  saucers  and  all  the  rest  must  be 
bright  and  spotless,  not  showing  marks  of 
being  smeared  over  with  a  wet  and  much 
used  towel,  but  shining  with  the  polish  left 
by  clear  and  very  hot  water,  the  glassware 
the  same.  The  cream  pitchers  and  water 
pitchers  need  special  watching  that  the 
inside  be  well  cleansed.  The  steward  also 
watches  the  dishes  as  they  pass  him  com- 
ing from  the  kitchen  to  see  that  there  are 
no  thumb  marks  and  spatterings  of  gravy 
on  the  edges. 

He  has  to  see  that  the  dishes  after  wash- 
ing are  covered  up  and  effectively  secured 
from  flies  and  dust. 

He  is  responsible  also  for  the  dishes 
being  kept  warm,  in  a  dish-heater  or  other- 
wise, and  makes  rules  against  the  waiters 
and  others  destroying  dishes  by  placing 
them  to  get  hot  upon  the  range. 

Accordingly  he  has  shelves,  closets, 
draining  racks,  warm  closets,  dry  towels, 
mosquito  net  coverings,  and  all  such  ap- 
pliances made  in  the  manner  best  adapted 
to  the  particular  circumstances  of  his  house. 

The  dishwashers,  pantry  woman,  scrub- 
bers, ice  man  and  yard  man  are  directly 
under  the  steward's  control,  to  hire  and  dis- 
charge them  without  reference  to  any 
heads  of  departments  whatever.  The 
better  the  hands  he  can  secure  in  these 
menial  situations  the  lighter  will  be  his 
cares. 

THE    STEWARD   AND    HIS    WORKSHOPS. 

The  basement  story  of  some  large  hotels 
resembles  a  small  factory  where^ach  trades- 
man is  doing  his  part  towards  the  comple- 


28 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


tion  of  some  immense  work,  and  a  great 
number  of  trades  it  takes  to  keep  up  and 
supply  the  needs  of  a  large  hotel.  In  one 
of  these  rooms  is  a  soap  maker  and  assist- 
ants, and  the  necessary  tanks,  boilers, 
presses  and  drying  room,  all  furnished 
with  steam  heat.  The  soap  maker  not  only 
makes  the  common  sorts  for  the  laundry 
and  for  the  floor  scrubbers  to  use,  but 
makes  fancy  toilet  soap  for  the  guests' 
ropms,  the  name  of  the  hotel  stamped  on 
each  cake.  In  another  room  the  hotel  con- 
fectioner superintends  the  making  of  the 
jellies  and  preserves  for  the  house,  there 
being  one  or  two  assistants  employed  in 
these  operations,  and  at  other  times  in  the 
same  room  the  pickles,  catsups,  chow-chow 
and  sweet  pickles  are  made,  and  there  is 
an  occasional  canning  and  bottling  of  fruits 
and  vegetables  from  the  hotel  farm,  when 
the  ripening  season  is  on.  Further  on  the 
furniture  repairer  is  at  work  with  cabinet 
makers'  tools  and  glue,  and  a  turning  lathe 
and  scroll  saw  are  in  motion  close  by ;  then 
there  is  the  blacksmith's  shop  adjoining  the 
engine  room,  then  the  great  engine  that, 
perhaps,  operates  the  elevator,  keeps  the 
laundry  machinery  in  motion  and  whirls 
the  ice-cream  freezers,  and  another  engine 
for  the  electric  light.  The  meat-cutting 
room  is  very  likely  to  be  found  in  this  base- 
ment story,  and  the  oven  where  the  loaf 
bread  is  baked,  the  pastry  oven  having  to 
be  upstairs  and  near  the  dining  room  as 
the  kitchen  is,  for  convenience  of  service. 
All  of  these  are  under  the  control  of  the  pur- 
chasing steward  except  the  engineers,  and 
he  must  purchase  fuel  also  for  them.  The 
fruit  and  sugar  for  the  confectioner,  the 
materials  for  the  cabinet  maker  and  for  the 
soap  maker,  and  whatever  other  trades 
may  be  there  are  all,  in  these  largest  estab- 
lishments, purchased  by  the  steward,  and 
the  hands  are  accountable  to  him  for  their 
time  and  quality  of  workmanship,  the  same 
as  in  the  eating  and  drinking  departments 
above. 

Thus  it  is  seen  the  steward,  whether  he 
be  the  man-of-all-work  in  the  smallest  ho- 
tels, or  whether  multiplied  into  three  or 


four  of  one  name  in  the  largest,  is  the  real 
operative  hotel  keeper.  And  yet  some 
hotels  have  no  steward! 

WHEN  THE  STEWARD'S  GOOD  TIME  COMES. 

Compare  the  actual  duties  of  the  thor- 
ough hotel  steward,  as  they  have  been  de- 
tailed, with  the  ideas  of  those  who  think 
they  will,  as  stewards  only  have  to  go  to 
market,  buy  something  and  make  their 
own  little  "per  cent.",  walk  around  the 
house  a  time  or  two  and  then  sit  down  in  a 
shady  corner  and  doze  the  happy  hours 
away,  and  the  discrepancy  between  fact 
and  fancy  will  be  found  so  great  as  almost 
to  take  away  the  hope  that  truly  efficient 
stewards  ever  can  be  made  out  of  such  poor 
material  as  usually  offers.  Nor  does  there 
seem  to  be  much  encouragement  for  more 
capable  men  to  undertake  duties  so  arduous, 
unless  they  will  look  further  into  it  and 
behold  the  perfected  hotel  and  its  system 
of  working  departments  running  with  the 
smoothness  and  certainty  of  a  great  factory, 
wheel  within  wheel,  and  he  himself  the 
directing  head  of  all.  A  man  cannot  be 
steward  of  a  hotel  and  give  it  a  divided 
attention — it  takes  up  all  his  thoughts.  He 
cannot  be  steward  and  take  an  interest  in 
politics,  nor  write  a  book,  nor  a  play,  nor 
carry  on  a  business  of  his  cwn  down  town. 
Stewarding  is  of  all  things  a  thoughtful 
occupation.  Every  individual  that  meets 
the  steward  in  the  hotel  wants  something 
— something  to  be  purchased,  to  be  re- 
membered, to  be  tried  for  and  not  secured, 
and  tried  for  in  another  quarter.  Every 
individual  the  steward  meets  has  to  be  an 
object  of  his  mental  inquiry,  has  to  be 
thought  over  in  regard  to  duties  and  con- 
duct. Every  hour  of  the  day  has  its  special 
claim  upon  the  thoughts  of  the  steward, 
from  market  hours  to  meal  hours,  train 
times,  mail  times  and  appointments.  Every 
individual  in  the  house  blames  the  steward 
for  something,  either  openly  or  covertly, 
from  the  scullions,  who  complain  that  the 
steward's  soap  will  not  cleanse  anything, 
that  his  matches  will  not  light  and  his  stove 
wood  is  wet  and  will  not  make  a  fire, 


THE    STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


29 


through  all  the  departments  of  fault-finders 
to  the  dyspectic  guest  in  the  distant  room, 
who  blames  him  for  the  butter  or  syrup  or 
meat  or  bread  not  being  to  her  liking,  or 
for  the  failure  to  find  a  special  something 
in  market  that  was  not  there  to  find. 

Yet,  spite  of  all  this,  a  man  who  can 
govern  himself  and  therefore  can  govern 
others,  may  have  a  moderately  easy  time 
as  steward  of  a  good  hotel.  He  may  be 
like  that  one  of  our  model  stewards  men- 
tioned, as  sitting  in  his  office  in  the  corner 
of  the  store-room  within  four  feet  of  the 
kitchen  table.  He  has  telephone  connec- 
tions in  his  office  and  speaking  tubes  to  the 
different  departments.  His  storekeeper  is 
an  able  second  to  him  and  needs  no  watch- 
ing. His  head  cook  is  thoroughly  efficient 
and  reliable,  can  govern  his  kitchen  and 
needs  no  watching,  his  pastry  cook  the 
same.  The  headwaiter  is  one  of  the  best, 
is  on  the  most  friendly  terms  with  the 
steward  and  cooks,  and  hib  well-trained 
waiters  are  assiduous  in  their  efforts  to 
please  the  guests  and  are  free  from  all  the 
faults  which  some  waiters  need  watching 
for.  The  house  is  prosperous,  the  business 
is  steady,  each  one  employed  does  his  or 
her  part;  there  is  no  noise,  no  quarelling, 
no  friction  anywhere* 

This ,  is  the  easy  condition  reached 
through  the  firm  enforcement  of  rules  and 
the  steady  weeding  out  of  poor  help  and 
replacement  with  better,  and  the  encourage- 
ment of  well-doing  by  trifling  promotions 
and  judiciously  bestowed  words  of  praise. 
Then  the  steward  takes  his  hour  or  two  of 
recreation  in  the  evening  without  the  fear 
of  a  strike  among  the  waiters,  or  of  a 
desertion  of  cooks,  .or  unmade  fires  and 
late  meals  to  wear  him  out  in  the  morning, 
and  his  thoughts  run  out  to  the  pleasanter 
prospect  of  securing  the  first  strawberries 
of  the  season  or  a  new  variety  of  fish  for 
his  next  menu,  and  occasionally  he  finds 
time  to  bestow  a  pitying  thought  upon  any 
man,  who  has  not  yet  found  out  that  the 
hotel  he  stewards  for  and  his  table  are  the 
best  in  the  world. 


WHO   SHALL    BE    STEWARDS? 

Every  hotel  being  in  want  of  a  real 
steward,  and  only  a  small  number  being  at 
present  supplied  with  such,  it  is  evident 
that,  when  the  stewards  do  come  to  their 
own  again,  they  will  crowd  out  some- 
body that  is  now  standing  in  their  shoes. 
They  will  crowd  out  the  "assistant  man- 
ager." There  is  no  such  a  thing  as  an 
assistant  manager,  the  man  so  called  is 
occupying  the  steward's  place  without  do- 
ing the  steward's  hardest  work.  They 
will  crowd  down  the  present  crop  of  chefs 
and  make  head  cooks  of  them.  There  is 
no  such  word  as  chef  in  the  English  lan- 
guage, nor  in  American-English.  When  a 
head  cook  becomes  such  an  object  of  re- 
spect that  he  must  be  named  in  italic  print 
and  made  conspicuous  in  that  way  all  over 
a  newspaper  page,  it  shows  that  he  is  more 
than  head  cook,  he  is  a  grade  above,  and 
that  grade  in  English  is  steward ;  in  French 
also,  it  is  steward,  the  French  chef  is,  equiv- 
alent to  American  steward.  The  French 
cook  is  le  cuisinier.  The  French  chef-de- 
cuisini  is  the  chief  of  kitchen,  he  is  more 
than  cuisinier,  he  is  the  managing,  meat- 
cutting,  carving,  bill -of -fare  writing,  wine 
serving,  kitchen-governing  man,  known  to 
the  American  hotel  system  as  steward. 
The  French  chef  of  to-day  is  the  same  as 
the  maitre  d'  hotel  of  a  .century  ago. 
Maitre  cT  hotel  is  literally  master  of  the 
house;  every  French  nobleman's  house 
used  to  be  called  hotel,  his  steward  was  his 
maitre  d'  hotel.  We  are  accustomed  to 
reading  in  English  of  Ude,  Vatel,  Marin, 
Bechamel,  and  others  being  cook  to  such 
a  king  or  prince,  but  the  French  reading  is 
not  cook,  but  maitre  d1  hotel,  steward — 
something  higher  than  cuisinier — the  same 
thing,  in  fact,  as  our  working  and  govern- 
ing stewards,  who  can  invent  dishes  and 
show  others  how,  if  need  be.  The  old 
term  maitre  d^  hotel  seems  to  have  dropped 
out  of  use,  the  French  now  have  only  chefs 
— chiefs  of  the  kitchen,  with  all  that  it  im- 
plies. Jules  Gouffe  was  called,  and  called 
himself,  chef  to  the  Paris  jockey  club,  but 


THE   STEWARDS    HANDBOOK. 


he  was  far  more  than  a  cuisinier — he  was 
wine  steward  and  an  authority  on  wines ; 
he  was  an  authority  on  confectionery, 
canning  and  preserving,  and  on  meat  cook- 
ing as  well.  That  is  the  sort  of  man  he 
understood  a  ckefto  be — the  same  as  a  most 
accomplished  working  steward  is  with  us. 
Are  the  head  cooks  of  the  generality  of 
hotels  that  sort  of  men?  If  not,  why  call 
them  chefs  in  italic  conspicuousness  ?  If 
there  are  some  such  why  not  apply  the 
English  word  and  call  them  stewards? 
C/iefis  generally  thought  to  mean  cook. 
Steward  is  a  title  of  higher  rank,  and 
those  who  deserve  it  ought  to  wear  it. 

PROMOTE   THE    GOOD   COOKS. 

There  is  no  school  wherein  a  young  man 
can  learn  thoroughly  the  masterful  duties 
of  the  hotel  steward  but  the  live  hotel  itself. 
There  are  three  departments  in  which  the 
business  may  be  learned.  From  waiter  to 
headwaiter  and  then  steward  may  do  very 
well.  From  storekeeper  to  steward  is 
better.  From  head  cook  to  steward  is  best, 
and  is  in  the  natural  course  of  promotion. 

A  superior  class  of  young  men  have 
come  into  the  hotel  cooks'  ranks  of  late 
years.  They  are  no  longer  the  corner 
loafers  and  drunken  castaways,  the  ignor- 
ant, profane  and  obscene  outcasts,  .who 
secure  the  good  places  in  the  hotels.  Many 
of  the  cooks,  who  write  to  hotel  papers,  now 
write  good  business  hands  and  can  indite 
a  good  letter,  they  give  evidence  of  having 
received  a  good  common  school  education 
in  most  cases,  in  some  instances  they  ex- 
hibit much  more  than  that  These  are 
adapted  to  become  stewards.  They  have 
been  attracted  to  the  hotel  cook's  occupa- 
tion by  the  liberal  scale  of  wages  offered 
for  efficient  men  in  that  line,  and  they  find, 
on  trial,  that  the  hotel  cook  is  not  a  servant, 
but  a  master  mechanic  who  has  a  chance 
of  next  becoming  a  superintendent  or  stew- 
ard. Some  among  these  are  total  abstainers 
from  strong  drink,  or  else  have  control 
over  themselves  to  resist  excess.  They 
are  readers,  and  quick  to  detect  ridiculous 
blunders  in  a  bill  of  fare.  Some  of  them 
cherish  that  principle  of  free  citizenship 


which  makes  them  scorn  to  sell  their  vote 
for  a  bribe,  and  the  same  principle  will 
prevent  their  selling  their  independence 
to  any  trader  for  a  bribe.  They  know  the 
best  article  in  market  when  they  see  it, 
and  they  want  it  wherever  it  can  be  found, 
and  they  wear  nobody's  collar  and  buy  no- 
body's stale  merchandise.  These  are  the 
coming  stewards.  There  is  no  other  train- 
ing so  good  to  make  stewards  as  the  cook's 
training.  A  man  who  can  govern  the 
kitchen  can  govern  all  the  rest  of  the 
interior,  and  the  man  who  as  head  cook 
has  had  experiencfe  of  all  kinds  of  provi- 
sions and  has  practiced  writing  the  bill  of 
fare,  is  a  steward  almost  already.  Such 
men  should  be  promoted  to  the  position  of 
the  sort  of  steward  that  has  been  described 
in  the  foregoing  pages;  not  promoted  to 
the  lower  rate  of  compensation  which 
stewards  now  generally  are  receiving,  but 
promoted  to  still  higher  salaries  than  the 
citefs  are  getting,  with  all  the  honor, 
auiiiorHy  and  responsibility  of  stewardship 
superadded. 

HOW    STORES   ARE    ISSUED   AN'D    CHARGED. 

The  proprietor  of  a  hotel  of  small  or 
medium  capacity  generally  has  no  patience 
with  the  "red  tape"  methods  of  making 
requisitions,  booking  and  checking  and 
counter-checking,  which  he  may  hear  are 
practiced  in  metropolitan  establishments; 
he  says:  "if  I  didn't  think  my  man  was 
honest  I  would  not  have  him  in  my  house; 
if  he  is  determined  to  steal  from  me  he 
will  steal  anyhow,  and  blank  forms  to  fill 
out  would  have  no  effect ;  my  way  is  to 
hire  none  but  those  whose  honestv  I  have 
confidence  in,  and  then  I  trust  them  im- 
plicitly and  let  them  know  that  I  trust 
them."  Those  are  the  pleasant  sort  of 
men  to  deal  with,  and  theirs  are  the  houses 
where  employer  and  employe's  are  like  one 
family.  The  strict  rules  are  not  for  them. 
But  take  the  big  city  hotel  where  some  200 
hands  are  employed  and  some  among 
them  leave  every  week  and  strange  faces 
take  their  places,  and  the  united  family 
feature  disappears  and,  instead,  a  system 
as  hard  and  unsentimental  prevails  as  any 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


31 


that  governs  a  company  of  miners  or  mill 
operatives.  No  sympathy  exists  between 
the  lowest  grade  of  workers  in  the  various 
hotel  departments  and  employers,  who 
each  apper  to  be  seeking  to  take  advantage 
of  the  other  whenever  an  opportunity 
occurs. 

In  such  houses  all  the  doors  are  guarded. 
One  bears  the  notice  "No  admittance  to 
see  the  help  under  any  circumstances." 
Another  says,  "You  are  not  allowed  to  re- 
main in  the  store-room."  Another,  "You 
will  be  discharged  if  you  come  in  here 
without  permission."  There  the  coffee- 
maker  must  count  the  number  of  cups  he 
serves  out  and  on  no  account  give  out  a 
cup  to  any  employe"  without  express  per- 
mission, the  fruit  room  and  pantry  goods 
are  all  guarded  with  the  same  strictness 
and  a  watch  is  kept  upon  the  hands  em- 
ployed in  them,  the  sarre  as  upon  the 
coffee- maker. 

Even  where  a  more  cordial  feeling  exists 
the  great  number  of  employes  makes  a 
personal  acquaintance  impracticable,  much 
less  individual  trust,  and  a  strict  and  formal 
accounting  in  every  department  is  adopted 
as  a  measure  of  the  sternest  necessity. 

The  genial  hotel  keeper  who  objects 
most  strongly  to  those  "red  tape"  measures 
and  is  slowest  to  buy  the  necessary  blanks 
and  books,  after  once  becoming  accustomed 
very  seldom  abandons  them.  As  to  how 
much  of  them  should  be  adopted  in  any 
given  size  of  house,  must  of  course  depend 
upon  the  disposition  of  the  proprietor  and 
the  degree  of  personal  attention  he  gives 
the  business.  The  two  different  styles  of 
hotel  store  room  have  been  already  de- 
scribed. Apart  from  the  question  of  which 
is  the  better,  many  of  the  largest  and  best 
conducted  houses  have  no  ro  »m  for  a  store 
room  in  connection  with  the  kitchen,  it 
must  be  in  the  basement  because  the  plan 
of  building  did  not  allow  for  it  upstairs. 
In  such  places  the  chief  cook,  the  pastry 
cook,'  the  head  waiter,  the  housekeeper,  the 
chief  clerk  and,  perhaps,  the  barkeeper  and 
other  heads  of  departments  write  a  requisi- 


Beef  Loin,  

18      Ibs. 

"     Roast  . 

18 

"     Butts  

21 

Mutton  

6 

Veal  _ 

16 

Pork     .. 

18 

Fish  

JO 

Butter,  table  
"        kitchen  
Coffee  

VA 

2 

VA 

Tea  

4.    OZ. 

Syrup... 

i  quart. 

Milk.  

4.  emails. 

Lard  .  

2      Ibs. 

Oatmeal  

\y~     ' 

Gi  its  .  

4           4 

Sugar  cut  loaf.  .. 
"      powder  
"      help's  
Mackerel  

4 

4 

2^       ' 
1O           ' 

Esss 

6  doz 

tion  for  the  day's  or  half-day's  supplies  in 
a  printed  blank  like  this: 

HOTEL  BELVIDERE,  Nov.  24,  188- 
Storekeeper  deliver  to  bearer: 


JOHN  SMITH,  Chef. 

The  blank  book  from  which  this  is  torn 
has  a  duplicate  form,  which  the  chief  cook, 
or  other  requisitionist,  fills  out  with  the 
prices  and  total,  as  follows,  and  keeps  it: 

HOTEL  BELVIDERE,  Nov.  24,  :88. 
Storekeeper  delivered  to  bearer: 


Beef  Loin  i81bs.@i9c. 
"      Roast.  -.18     "       8c. 
"      Butts  21      "       9c. 
Mutton  6     "      90. 

3 
i 
i 

42 
24 
89 

C4. 

Veal  16     "  6>£c. 

i 

O4. 

Pork  18     "  6^c. 

i 

17 

Fish  10     "       8c. 

80 

Butter,  table..  3^"     3oc. 
"       kitchen  2     "     2oc. 
Coffee  yA  "     3oc- 

i 
i 

05 
40 
OS 

Tea  -__  4  oz.  @  6oc. 

i: 

Syrup  .__    i  qt.  @  6oc. 

I  e 

Milk     4gal@3oc. 

i 

2O 

Lard  2  lbs.@nc. 

22 

Oatmeal  ij£  "       40. 

6 

Grits      -_  4     "       3c. 

12 

Sugar  cut  loaf.  4     "       gc. 
"     powder  _  4     "       9C. 
"     help's  2>£  "       6c. 
Mackerel  10     "       3c. 
Eggs  6doz@2oc. 

i 

36 
36 

15 

30 

$16 

87 

JOHN  SMITI 

-i,  Chef 

82 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


It  may  be  asked:  "What  does  the  chief 
cook  want  with  the  duplicate,  when  the 
goods  have  been  entered  in  the  storekeep- 
er's books  before  he  receives  them?"  The 
answer  is,  it  is  a  part  of  the  unsentimental 
system  of  making  one  employ^  act  as  a 
restraint  and  a  check  upon  another.  The 
wa  ters  on  watch  cannot  close  up  and  leave 
the  dining-room  until  the  missing  knife  or 
spoon  has  been  found  or  charged  up  to 
some  delinquent;  the  chambermaid  cannot 
get  a  clean  towel  from  the  linen-room  un- 
til she  brings  the  dirty  one  to  be  exchanged 
for  it.  It  has  been  shown  how  the  steward 
becomes  a  check  upon  the  cook  and  the 
storekeeper  upon  the  steward,  and  now  the 
cook,  and  indeed  each  other  one  who  makes 
requisitions,  becomes  a  check  upon  the 
storekeeper. 

The  supposition  acted  upon  is  that  the  bar- 
keeper might  send  for  five  pounds  of  sugar 
and  the  storekeeper  might  enter  it  in  his 
book  ten  pounds;  or  the  cook  might  draw 
twenty  pounds  of  meat  and  the  storekeeper 
might  enter  it  thirty  and  might  then  thiow 
five  pounds  of  sugar  and  ten  pounds  of 
meat  out  of  the  window,  without  coming 
out  short  at  the  monthly  stock-taking. 
Without  looking  as  far  as  that,  the  cook 
keeps  the  duplicate  accounts  for  self-pro- 
tection, because  the  steward  will  come  to 
him  at  night  and  say,  "Your  bill  to-day 
was  twenty  dollars  more  than  yesterday ; 
the  proprietor  will  expect  an  explanation, 
do  you  know  what  made  the  difference?" 
and  the  cook  will  want  to  know  whether 
he  has  been  subjected  to  an  overcharge  in 
the  store-room  and  will  look  over  his  own 
account  for  that  and  the  preceding  day  to 
see  how  it  was,  for  it  is  to  be  observed  that 
an  unaccountable  increase  in  the  store-room 
bills  fastens  upon  the  cook  the  accusation 
of  extravagance  which  he  does  not  wish 
to  incur.  The  pastry  cook,  baker,  confec- 
tioner, pantryman  and  every  other  one 
who  draws  supplies  is  in  the  same  position 
as  regards  their  daily  accounts,  though  none 
have  such  large  amounts  to  answer  for  as 
the  chief  cook. 


THE    STOREKEEPER    MUST    RISE    EARLY. 

One  of  the  most  serious  of  the  minor 
difficulties  is  connected  with  the  issuing  of 
supplies  early  in  the  morning.  If  the  bakers 
and  cooks  get  a  late  start,  not  only  will 
the  breafast  be  ill-cooked  and  short  of  some 
of  the  dishes  which  the  bill  of  fare  promises, 
but  they  scarcely  will  catch  up  with  their 
work  during  the  whole  day.  The  bakers 
want  material  to  use  at  four  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  the  subordinate  cooks  need  nu- 
merous things  such  as  oatmeal,  lard,  pota- 
toes, cracker-dust,  onions  and  potatoes  to 
get  their  respective  shares  of  the  work  of 
preparation  done  before  the  head  cook 
comes.  The  requisitions  for  the  several  de- 
partments have  been  written  out  the  night 
before,  and  when  the  storekeeper  throws 
open  the  doors,  there  is  a  rush  of  work 
upon  him,  and  while  he  is  weighing, 
measuring  and  booking  the  supplies  issued, 
a  valuable  half-hour  or  more  is  lost,  per- 
haps, by  each  of  a  dozen  hands,  and  if  he  is 
late  himself  the  trouble  is  so  much  the  more 
serious.  It  is  contrary  to  good  hotel  rules 
and  to  good  policy  to  issue  the  stores  over 
night,  the  store-room  is  the  place  provided 
to  keep  such  property  locked  up  in.  But 
to  facilitate  the  morning  issues  the  good 
rule  is  to  have  the  requisitions  from 
kitchen  and  bakery  sent  down  over  night, 
together  with  the  pans  and  pails  to  hold 
the  goods,  the  storekeeper  fills  the  orders 
and  books  the  amounts  before  closing  up, 
and  when  the  doors  are  opened  next  morn- 
ing the  stores  can  he  handed  out  without 
delay. 

STORE- ROOM    HOURS. 

In  every  well  regulated  hotel  there  are 
four  times  in  the  day,  periods  of  one  hour 
each,  when  stores  are  issued,  after  that  the 
store-room  doors  are  locked,  and  it  must 
be  something  very  urgent  to  make  them 
open  again  before  the  next  regular  time. 
This  rule  is  necessary  to  prevent  the  store- 
keeper's time  being  consumed  by  a  con- 
stant doling  out  of  trifles,  it  makes  the 
cooks  and  others  think  what  they  are  going 
to  want  and  make  one  order  of  it.  For  the 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


33 


storekeeper  has  much  else  to  do  besides 
issue  provisions  as  has  been  already  shown, 
and  must  close  his  doors  in  order  to  do  his 
book-keeping,  receiving,  auditing  accounts 
and  stock-taking.  The  times  of  issue  aie 
early  in  the  morning  and  then  just  alter 
each  meal,  or,  rather,  while  each  meai  is  in 
progress  he  issues  for  the  next  meal,  be- 
cause it  is  absolutely  necessary  that  he 
shall  be  in  the  store-room  during  meals, 
to  be  ready  to  issue  special  goods  which 
may  be  unexpectedly  needed  for  some  par- 
ticular orders. 

THE    STORE-ROOM    ISSUE    BOOK. 

The  following  pages  show  three  differ- 
ent ways  of  keeping  the  issue  book.  The 
first  is  for  a  written  book,  an  ordinary  blank 
journal  will  answer,  and  the  storekeeper 
will  draw  a  line  or  two  on  each  page  as  he 
uses  it.  The  requisitions  which  come  from 
the  different  departments  repeat  themselves 
every  day  in  the  great  majority  of  items, 
only  varying  in  the  amounts  called  for, 
thus,  the  cook  always  call  for  the  staple 
meats,  fish,  poultry,  butter,  lard,  potatoes, 
etc.,  and  the  pastry  cook  or  baker  always 
repeats  flour,  meal,  sugar,  butter,  lard,  eggs 
and  the  other  staple  needs.  Therefore  the 
storekeeper  when  he  uses  a  written  book, 
takes  advantage  of  leisure  opportunities 
and  goes  several  pages  ahead  and  writes 
in  their  proper  lines  the  names  of  such 
daily  staples  as  is  seen  in  the  first  specimen 
page,  but  leaves  vacant  lines  to  write  in 
such  articles  as  are  only  called  for  occasion- 
ally, then  when  the  issues  are  made  he 
only  has  to  write  the  number  of  pounds  of 
the  staples  instead  of  the  whole  line.  The 
specimen  pages  here  following  show  the 
rest.  It  will  be  observed  that  a  comparison 
of  the  totals  of  the  bills  run  up  by  any  de- 
partment, can  be  had  instantly  by  turning 
over  the  pages  of  the  account  book. 

The  storekeeper  of  the  medium  size  hotel 


from  whose  written  pages  the  two  follow- 
ing are  copied,  has  not  added  the  prices  of 
articles  as  he  went  along,  as  the  frequent 
repetition  of  the  same  items,  and  his  thor- 
ough acquaintance  with  everything  through 
his  other  duty  of  booking  the  purchases 
and  examining  bills  and  prices  made  such 
itemization  unnecessary.  He  knew  that 
the  cost  of  kitchen  butter  was  fourteen 
cents  per  pound,  and  set  down  the  five-and- 
a-half  pounds  at  seventy-eight  cents,  avoid- 
ing superfluous  writing.  The  four  separate 
entries  of  butter  in  the  same  line  show  that 
a  requisition  for  that  commodity  was  sent 
from  the  kitchen  each  time  that  the  store- 
room was  opened. 

As  various  forms  are  used  in  different 
hotels  the  specimens  on  pages  36  and  37 
are  subjoined  for  the  purpose,  principally,  of 
showing  how  numerous  the  articles  are 
which  are  required  to  stock  the  storeroom 
of  a  large  hotel.  These  pages  are  copies, 
reduced  in  size,  of  the  ready-printed  requisi- 
tion lists  of  one  of  the  largest  hotels,  a 
house  capable  of  accommodating  one  thou- 
sand guests  at  once.  It  is  not,  however,  a 
pattern  to  copy  after  as  regards  its  interior 
organization.  These  printed  lists  are  in- 
tended to  serve  the  double  purpose  of 
saving  the  time  of  the  chief  cook  and  the 
baker,  by  giving  them  the  least  possible 
writing  to  do  and  to  take  away  the  excuse 
of  forgetfulness  and  frequent  sending  to 
the  storeroom  by  enumerating  almost 
every  possible  thing  that  can  be  wanted. 

When  these  requisitions  have  been  filled 
and  the  stores  issued,  the  items  and  amounts 
are  copied  from  them  into  a  book  as  in  the 
other  case,  at  the  storekeeper's  first  oppor- 
tunity. Any  party  who  may  be  concerned 
in  the  opening  of  a  new  hotel  may  find  it 
profitable  to  go  over  these  lists  attentively 
before  deciding  that  their  storeroom  is 
completely  stocked  and  ready. 


84 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


KITCHEN. 

Frida 

V->  De 

cc 

mber  //,  1688. 

Bro't  forward     

$22 

60 

Loins                            - 

oo 

Chocolate        .     ._   

OO 

Roast   16 

i 

28 

Chickens,  20  —  16  

•J 

2O 

Butts,  15  —  14  

2 

71 

Apples  

2O 

Lamb,  8  —  10  i  

I 

26 

Wine,  yz  

I  : 

Veal  

00 

C.  Fish,  4  Ib  

2.1 

Pork    12 

78 

Oysters      ._     

«      Salt        

oo 

Potash,  4  .     

28 

Liver  4 

30 

Salt,  Brine,  15 

IO 

Sausage,  S  .  

64 

Kraut,  3  

24 

Hams,  14  

j 

U4 

CA 

Turnips,  y2  

2t 

Tongues,  i  

.34 

L.  Peas,  5  

•Jr 

Bacon   5                        _ 

Barley,  i  V, 

12 

Fish,  10—  12        _ 

3° 

Turkev  s,  4 

84 

Mackerel,  S  

54 

Macaroni  y2 

IO 

Onions,  i  

20 

F.  Peas.  

2O 

Cabbage,  10  

18 

Oil,  i.  _  

I"! 

Parslev,  i                 - 

10 

C.  Berries,  i  

CO 

Irish  Potatoes  y2     i 

1  1 

Mushrooms,  i 

2; 

Sweet       "          i 

Candle,  Hall,  i  

O2 

4U 

Corn       .     -_ 

oo 

• 

Tomatoes,  i  —  i  -     

60 

$31 

31 

Grits,  4__ 

06 

Oat  Meal,  \y2  

06 

Corn     "          

oo 

Coffee  $%     2% 

20 

Tea  2     4 

18 

Rice,  4 

28 

W.  Sugar,  i  —  2  —  i  

2C 

Brown  Sugar  

OO 

Butter,  i  —  \l/2  —  2  —  i  
Lard    2 

78 

I  C 

Milk,  i    

23 

Efffs   10  —  ?     10 

7c 

Soap,  i  —  i  

IO 

Soda,  i      --  

Os 

$22 

69 

THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


35 


BAKERY. 


Friday,  December  n,  1888. 
D.  ROOM. 


C.  Meal,  8.—  

12 

Nuts,3  

45 

Milk,  4  

QO 

Raisins,  3  

JC 

Eggs,  6  —  3_. 

2 

07 

Oranges,  5  —  3  

06 

Butter,4  

60 

Apples 

20 

Lard,  3  

21 

W.  Sugar....  

oo 

W.  Sugar,  6  .. 

42 

C.  L.     "       A.  A.  A. 

oo 

Pow'd  "6 

to 

B.            "      2  !/       2  \f 

20 

Brown"     4  

26 

p.       "    

oo 

C  Loaf  "       -._       .   

oo 

S.  Milk,  4^  —  4  —  5 

•! 

08  V, 

Brandy,^    

15 

B.     "           

Molasses,  i_ 

IO 

Butter  y/t     y/i     y/i 

2 

(^ 

Apples,  5       _           ___  _- 

2C 

Syrup   i     i 

Pumpkin,  i     __     

^8 

Cheese   i^       _ 

20 

Currants,  3  .  

2A 

Preserves,  3    

"?"? 

Salt,  12  

08 

Crackers,  2  

12 

<£>f> 

•?c 

Bananas,  100...  ......  

I 

oo 

$11 

03 

LAUNDRY. 

2C 

OFFICE. 
Scrubbing  Brush  

15 

C   Paper  6 

C.A 

Blacking,  i  

•10 

Oil       

IS 

79 

Brooms,  i  —  i        _     ._   __ 

5° 

C  Paper,  6  

54 

Soap       _     ._..____..___ 

20 

RECAPITULATION. 
Kitchen               _   ...  

$3i 

$1 

64 

Bakery     

6 

28 

D    Room     _-   _______  _. 

ii 

03 

7Q 

Office        -     

i 

64 

Ice      -  

i 

4° 

TOTAL  ISSUES  

$52 

45 

' 

86 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


COOK'S 
Store  Room  Keeper  -will  deliver  the  articles  enumerated  beloiv  by  quantity, 188 


ARTICLES. 

ARTICLES. 

ARTICLES. 

Lbs. 

Pan  Fish. 

Pk. 

Cranberries. 

Lbs. 

Black  Pepper. 

" 

Boiled  Fish. 

Can. 

Green  Peas. 

<> 

R  d           '• 

«< 

Broiled  Fish. 

Pk. 

«        « 

Oz. 

Mustard. 

Cans 

Oysters. 

Can. 

String  Beans. 

Bot. 

Olive  Oil. 

.... 

Qts. 

Cans 

Clams. 

.... 

Pk. 
Can. 

Lima       " 

Qts. 

Turagon  Vineg»r. 
Apple              " 

.... 

Lbs. 

Roasting-  Beef. 

Qt. 

«           ii 

« 

White  Wine" 

.... 

'« 

"         Mutton. 

Bun. 

Asparagus. 

Pts. 

Wine  —  Catawba. 

No. 

Breast  of        " 

Can. 

«' 

" 

"      Rhine. 

«« 

Shoulder  of  Mutton. 

Doz. 

Green  Corn. 

« 

"      Port. 

«• 

Rack         "         " 

Can. 

if         <i 

" 

"      Claret 

« 

Loin          "    Veal. 

Pk. 

Tomatoes. 

" 

"      Sauterne. 

•i 

Rack         " 

Can. 

" 

" 

Cordial  —  Anisette. 

" 

Shoulder  "         " 

Pk. 

Cucumbers. 

" 

"          Maraschino. 

" 

Breast       "         " 

Bun. 

Radishes. 

ii 

"          Curacoa. 

" 

Loin           "    Pork. 

Can. 

French  Peas. 

<» 

"          Chartreuse. 

« 

Rack         " 

M 

"       Beans. 

<i 

American  Champagne. 

Lbs. 

Spare  Ribs,        " 

.... 

" 

Succotash. 

" 

Brandy. 

" 

Corned  Beef. 

* 

Macedoine. 

i< 

R'im. 

Cans 

X                     11 

«l 

Okra  and  Tomatoes. 

Lbs. 

Raisins. 

No. 

Turkeys. 

Qts. 

Split  Peas. 

«i 

Currants. 

.... 

" 

Chicken  Broilers. 

Navy  Beans. 

" 

Citron. 

" 

"        Roasters. 

Pk. 

Apples. 

Oz. 

Lemon  Extract 

'« 

Ducks. 

« 

Pears. 

« 

Almond. 

" 

Geese. 

Can. 

Salmon. 

ii 

Vanilla. 

Lbs. 

Liver. 

«« 

Crabs. 

Lbs. 

Flour. 

No. 

Kidneys. 

« 

Lobsters. 

« 

Corn  Meal. 

" 

Ox  Tails. 

« 

Shrimps. 

" 

Cracker  Meal. 

Lbs. 

Tripe. 

.... 

" 

Green  Turtle. 

" 

Oat  Meal. 

No. 

Calf's  Head. 

« 

Mock       " 

" 

Manioca. 

•i 

Sweetbreads. 

« 

Sardines. 

<« 

Cracked  Wheat. 

" 

Calf's  Brains. 

« 

Condensed  Milk. 

" 

Cornstarch. 

Lbs. 

Sausage. 

« 

Desiccated  Cocoanut 

«« 

Gelatine. 

,.!! 

No. 

Beef  Tongue  Pickled. 

."! 

< 

Peaches. 

«« 

Rice. 

*  ... 

" 

"          "        Smoked. 

' 

Pears. 

" 

Tapioca. 

-  ... 

" 

"          "        Fresh. 

' 

Apricots. 

.... 

" 

Sago. 

.... 

•« 

Hams. 

.... 

• 

Figs. 

'* 

Farina. 

PCS. 

Hreakfast  Bacon. 

• 

Cherries. 

" 

Grits.           • 

" 

Smoked  Beef. 

' 

Pineapple. 

" 

Barley. 

Doz. 

.Salt  Mackerel. 

Doz. 

Lemons. 

" 

It  ilian  Paste. 

Lbs. 

Salt  Codfish. 

" 

Oranges. 

'« 

Macaroni. 

Cans 

Codfish  Balls. 

" 

Bananas. 

" 

Vermicelli. 

Doz. 

Scotch  Herring'. 

Jar. 

Anchovy  Paste. 

" 

Spaghetti. 

" 

Holland      " 

Can. 

Mushrooms. 

Oz. 

Mace. 

.-.  .. 

Pks. 

[rish  Potatoes. 

" 

Russian  Caviar. 

" 

Allspice. 

'  « 

Sweet      "     ' 

Bot 

Truffles. 

" 

Cinnamon. 

< 

Turnips, 

" 

Gumbo  File. 

" 

Cloves. 

1 

Parsnips. 

«' 

Curry  Powder. 

" 

Nutmegs. 

.... 

' 

Beets. 

.... 

" 

Mushroom  Catsup. 

" 

Ginger. 

' 

Peppers,  Green. 

.... 

" 

Walnut              " 

" 

Whole  Pepper. 

.... 

' 

"        Red. 

.... 

" 

Cipers. 

" 

Sage. 

1 

Carrots. 

.... 

Pt. 

Olives. 

" 

Thyme. 

« 

Squash. 

" 

Worcestershire  Sauce. 

" 

Sweet  Majoram. 

.... 

Doz. 

Egg  Plant 

Bot 

Chow  Chow. 

" 

Celery  Seed. 

.... 

" 

Cauliflower. 

" 

M  xed  Pickles. 

" 

B:iy  Leaves. 

Pks. 

Salsify. 

" 

Gherkins. 

" 

Jhives. 

Hds. 

v.  abbage. 

.... 

Lbs. 

Currant  Jelly. 

" 

Chevril. 

Doz. 

Lettuce. 

«< 

Apple         " 

" 

Burnet 

Pk. 

Spinach. 

" 

Cheese. 

Lbs. 

Yeast  Powder. 

...! 

<« 

Turnip  Greens. 

Doz. 

Egsfs. 

" 

Hi.  Curb,  of  Soda. 

" 

Kale. 

Qts. 

Milk,  Fresh. 

Xo. 

Ball  Potash. 

!..! 

Bun. 

Parsley. 

Lbs. 

Butter. 

" 

Matches. 

«... 

" 

Mint. 

" 

Lard. 

" 

Twine. 

" 

Celery. 

" 

>rown  Sugar. 

" 

Paper. 

w 

Leeks. 

" 

A 

" 

Soap. 

" 

Garlic. 

" 

Pulverized  Sugar. 

" 

handles. 

" 

Cress. 

Pk. 

Salt. 

" 

i'encil  Tablets. 

Chief  Cook. 

Chief  Cook  is  earnestly  requested  not  to  order  in  excess  of  actual  wants,  and  to  return  all  articles  not 
used  at  the  end  of  each  meal  to  Store  Roorrt  Keeper.  He  will  also  see  that  none  of  his  subordinate* 
make  use  of  profane  or  obscene  language  while  on  duty. 


'ONLY  ECONOMICAL  COOKS  COMMAND  GOOD   POSITIONS.. 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


37 


HOTJSE 
BAKER'S  AND  PASTRY  COOK'S  REQUISITION. 


Flour  

Lbs. 

Peaches,  Pie  _  _ 

Cans, 

Rye  Flour 

u 

Peaches,  Table 

Graham  Flour  

u 

Apples  

u 

Buckwheat  Flour       

u 

White  Cherries  

H 

Corn  Meal 

u 

Red  Cherries 

It 

Butter 

(1 

Gooseberries  ____ 

H 

Lard 

It 

Raspberries      ._ 

M 

A  Sugar 

(I 

Blueberries  ... 

H 

Pulverized  Sugar 

u 

Blackberries 

H 

Svrup 

<( 

Muscatel  Grapes 

M 

Brown  Sugar 

<( 

Catawba  Grapes 

„ 

Corn  Starch 

(( 

Pie  Plant           

U 

Soda      .. 

H 

Green  Gages  .  _ 

„ 

•  Yeast  Powder  _. 

il 

Irish  Potatoes  

Pks. 

Hops.... 

u 

Sweet  Potatoes 

u 

Malt  

U 

Salt  

u 

Des.  Cocoanut 

(1 

Vanilla  Flavor 

Qts 

Chocolate  

u 

Lemon  Flavor  

u 

Raisins 

a 

Almond  Flavor 

H 

Currants,  Layers 

(t 

Raspberry  Flavor 

U 

Currants,  Seedless  

H 

Pineapple  Flavor  

U 

Citron  

u 

Strawberry  Flavor  

u 

Figs  .. 

it 

Rose  Flavor  

u 

Gelatine  

u 

Molasses  

u 

Apple  Jellv  

H 

Sweet  Wine  

u 

Quince  Jelly  

u 

Dry  Wine  

u 

Peach  Jelly  

It 

Brandy  

M 

Raspberry  Jelly  

(1 

Rum  

(1 

Mince  Meat  .  

« 

Condensed  Milk  

Cans 

Allspice  

(1 

Sweet  Milk  

Gal 

Cloves  

(« 

Sweet  Cream  

Mace  

u 

Lemons  

Doz. 

Cinnamon,  Ground  

u 

Bananas  

u 

Ginger 

u 

Oranges  

II 

Fennel  Seed 

u 

Farina    

Lb. 

Shelled  Almonds 

(1 

Sago    

a 

Apricots 

Cans. 

Tapioca  ..  

u 

Pineapple  

tt 

Eggs  

Doz. 

Date,. 


Baker  and  Pastry  Cook. 


Pages  38  and  39  show,  greatly  reduced  in 
size,  leaves  from  the  most  elaborate  form 
of  storeroom  account  book.  Blank  books 
of  this  pattern  with  the  headings,  rulings 
and  everything  printed  except,  of  course, 
the  figures  and  unusual  items,  are  copy- 
right property.  The  system  is,  however, 
only  the  same  as  that  on  pages  34  and  35 
carried  up  to  the  highest  class  of  hotel 
with  its  more  numerous  departments,  and 
the  book  large  enough  to  admit  the  totals 


from  the  receiving  books  and  meal  count 
and  steward's  daily  memoranda.  It  will 
be  seen  that  the  day's  transactions  are 
shown  by  this  book  at  a  glance,  and  the 
amount  of  stock  in  the  storeroom  is  known 
at  any  time.  There  is  a  monthly  stock 
taking,  however,  to  verify  these  totals. 
Taken  in  connection  with  the  previous 
explanations  of  the  workings  of  the 
steward's  department  this  example  ex- 
plainsitself,and  may  be  studied  with  profit. 


38 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


HOTEL 

Date,  Friday,  July  23, 


KITCHEN. 

FRUIT  PANTRY 

21  Ibs. 

38  « 

i  Bbl 

3  Ibs. 

%    " 
2  bars 

3  Dz- 

2      " 

i  pk. 
i    " 
12  qts. 
20 
i  Ib. 
i    " 
i  Can 
7  Ibs. 
ipkg 
2  cans 

2     " 

7  Ibs. 
8    " 
2  cans 

Mutton     

2 

7 
3 

!> 

I 

4 

3 
5 

63 
60 
50 

15 

12 

16 

00 

90 

75 

20 
96 

85 

43 
06 

19 
47 
10 
ii 
4o 
27 
25 

20 
Si 
19 

I  qt. 

2  cans 
8  qts. 

Vinegar  

2 

10 
32 

56 

80 

Loin    - 

Milk  •_  

Potatoes     .  

Figs  _. 

Rice 

Fruit.. 

Coffee 

Soap 

G.  Corn  

Parsley      

3 

78 

S.  Beans  

Beets 

Milk  

HELP'S  HAI  L. 

Chickens  -- 

Tea  

Crackers        

5  Ibs. 

2      " 

3  cans 
2  Ibs. 

"A"  Sugar  

35 
15 
48 

34 

Tomatoes  .  

Gran.  Sugar  

Gran.  Sugar  

Pearline  

Milk  

S.  Beans  

Butter  

Peaches  

Lima  Beans  

i 

32 

Pea  Beans  

Ham  and  Butter  
Butter  _..   ---       

PASTRY  ROOM. 

2  Ibs. 

2      " 
I      " 
I      " 

6    " 
6  cans 
i  bot. 
ipkg 

Raisins  

i 

30 

12 
08 
07 
42 
06 

70 
09 

Currants  

Citron  

Gran.  Sugar  

Pul.          "      

Milk  

Vanilla  

Yeast  

3 

74 

ENGINE  ROOM. 



LAUNDRY. 

ipkg 
2  doz 

Pearline  

10 

C.  Pins  - 

35 

24 

18 

THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


39 


:R,OO:M 


CIGAR  STAND. 

WINE  ROOM. 

Stock  on  hand,  morning- 
Issues  .  

Sales 

Stock  on  hand,  night  

BAR. 

Total  Receipts  forward.  _ 
Receipts  to-day  

2,318 
i«5 

56 

20 

6^Dz 
3,600 
8  Ibs. 

2 

60 

Coronado  Cigars 

Total.  

2,503 

70 

Pul  Sugar        _ 

56 

3 

16 

Total  Issues  forward  
Issues  to-day  

1,581 

47 

96 
76 

BILLI'D  ROOM. 

Total  

i/>J9 

72 

Stock  on  hand,  morning. 

736 

_iS5_ 
9^T 
47 

60 

20 

So 
76 

Stock  on  hand,  evening.. 

^74 

04 

OFFICE. 

Morning  Count  

37 

127 
34-3 

Actual  Meal  Count  
Actual  Average  Cost  

* 

RECAPITULATION. 

HOUSEKEEPER 

Kitchen 

35 
3 
3 

78 
74 
32 

i  cake 
2  bars 

Sapolio  . 

10 

16 

Fruit  Pantry 

Soap  

Help's  Hall..  

26 

Cigar  Stand  

44 

08 

TURKISH  BATH 

Bar  ._ 

3 

16 

Billiard  Room  

Wine  Room  
Barber  Shop  

Turkish  Bath  .... 

Laundry     

18 
26 

Housekeeper 

Office 

BARBER  SHOP. 

Engine  Room  

08 

Total  Issues  

47 

76 

THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


HOTEL   BELVIDERE. 

Date,  Friday,   July,  23,  1887. 


KITCHEN. 

35 

3 
i 

24 

78 
32 

BROUGHT  FOKWAKD. 

PASTRY  ROOM. 

40 
3 

3 

34 

74 

08 

18 

16 

21  Ibs. 
38   " 
i  Bbl. 
3  Ibs. 

1A    " 
2  bars 

3Dz- 

2     " 

i  pk. 
i    " 
12  qts. 
20 
i  Ib. 
i    " 
i  Can 
7  Ibs. 
i  pkg. 
2  cans 

2      " 

7  Ibs. 
2  cans 

Mutton  
Loin  

2 

7 
3 

i 

i 
4 

3 

5 

63 
60 
50 

15 

12 

16 

00 

90 

75 
20 
96 
85 
43 
06 

19 

47 

IO 

ii 
40 

27 

25 

20 

75 
19 

2  Ibs. 

2    " 
I     " 
I     " 

6   « 
6  cans 
i  bot. 
i  pkg. 

Raisins  
Currants  
Citron 

i 

30 
12 

08 

07 

% 

96 
70 
09 

Potatoes  
Rice 

Gran.  Sugar 
Pul. 
Milk  

Coffee  

Soap 

G.  Corn  
Parsley  
S.  Beans  
Beets  

Vanille  
Yeast  

ENGINE  ROOM. 

08 

Milk 

Chickens  
Tea  

Sandpaper  . 

Crackers  
Tomatoes  .. 
Gran.  Sugar 
Pearline  
S.  Beans  
Peaches  
Lima  Beans 
Pea  Beans.  . 
Corn  

LAUNDRY. 

IO 

08 

i  pkg. 
2  doz. 

Pearline  — 
C.  Pins.  ... 

CIGAR  STAND. 

Ham  and  Batter. 

i  tub 

Butter  

BAR. 

2 

60 

56 

6yt  Dz 

8  Ibs. 

Lemons  
Pul.  Sugar. 

BILLI'D  ROOM. 



FRUIT  PANTRY. 

:qt. 
2  cans 
8  qts. 

Vinegar  
Milk  

2 

IO 

32 
56 
So 

OFFICE. 

Figs  .. 

HELP'S  HALL. 

5  Ibs. 

2    " 

3  cans 
2  Ibs. 

"A"  Sugar.. 
Gran.  Sugar 
Milk  

35 
i5 
48 

34 

HOUSEKEEPER. 

IO 

16 

26 
~ 

i  cake 
2  bars 

Sapolio  
Soap 

Butter  

~r 

40 

34 

47 

THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


41 


STORE   ROOM    ACCOUNTS. 


BROUGHT  FORWARD 

BARBER  SHOP. 

47 

76 

1 
WINE  ROOM. 

Stc 

r 

Sal 
Stc 

>ck  o 
ling 

es 

n  hand,  mor- 
[ssues  

TURKISH  BATH 





»ck  on  hand,  night 

Total  Issues 

47 

76 

Total    Receipts  for- 
ward   

2318 

56 

185 

20 

2503 
1629 

874 

76 

72 

04 

- 

Receipt 
1 
Total  Is 
Issues 
1 
Stock  o 
ning. 

s  to-day  

fetal.  

sues  forward 
to-day  

1581 

96 

47 

76 

fatal  

n  hand,  mor- 

736 

i37 

44 

60 

Add 

Stock  on  hand,  eve- 
ning. 

Mornin 
Averag 
Actual 
Actual 

g  Count  
e  Cost  

37 

I27o 
34-8 

Meal  Count. 
A.verageCost 

A  blank  book  of  unusually  large  size  is 
required  for  the  elaborate  method  of 
keeping  the  store  room  accounts  shown 
on  preceding  pages,  in  fact  it  is  intended 
for  both  storekeeper  and  steward  or 
manager  to  make  entries;  the  former 
carries  out  his  own  part  showing  the 
amount  of  the  daily  issues  etc.,  and  the 
steward  using  Jr.k  of  another  color  (to 
show  which  were  his  own  entries,  in  case 
of  dispute)  fills  in  the  number  of  meals 
served  a::d  the  cost  per  head.  As  in  such 
a  case  the  storekeeper  is  almost  sure  to 
use  a  commo-  memorandum  book  to 


make  his  entries  in  first,  at  the  time  of 
issue,  and  copy  it  into  the  big  book  after- 
wards the  objection  of  "  double  trouble  " 
will  be  made  everywhere  but  in  the  larg- 
est hotels  and  another  method  is  here 
offered,  sufficiently  simple  for  use  in  a 
written  book  yet  more  comprehensive 
than  the  first  example.  The  "  recapitula- 
tion " — which  is  for  the  proprietor  to  see 
at  a  glance — is  here  unnecessary,  the  totals 
appearing  in  a  separate  column  plain  to 
see,  and  these  columns  added  separately, 
prove  each  other  and  reduce  the  chances 
of  making  mistakes. 


42 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


CHANGING    COOKS    IN    A    LARGE    HOTEL. 

This  is  the  most  serio-comical  occurence 
that  ever  takes  place  in  grand  establish- 
ments. Some  hotels  make  changes  so 
often  that  all  concerned  get  used  to  it,  they 
get  the  mode  of  procedure  down  to  a  fine 
point;  still  the  operation  is  always  a  critical 
one,  attended  with  serious  dangers,  which 
can  only  be  safely  laughed  at  after  the 
crisis  is  past.  For  everything  in  a  hotel, 
even  the  very  continuance  of  the  business, 
depends  upon  the  cooks,  the  lapse  of  even 
a  single  meal  would  shake  up  the  house 
and  bring  consternation  upon  the  people 
equal  to  a  small  earthquake ;  it  is  the  diffi- 
culty of  making  the  connections  so  close 
that  the  one  intervening  meal  will  not  be 
dropped  that  makes  the  experience  excit- 
ing. The  determination  to  make  a  change 
is  not  often  reached  suddenly,  but  the  com- 
plaints and  dissatisfactions  grow  and  in- 
crease through  several  weeks,  perhaps 
months.  There  is  no  particular  reason  why 
a  chief  cook,  who  does  not  give  satisfaction, 
should  be  retained  except  the  fear  of  under- 
taking the  delicate  task  of  making  a  change 
of  administration.  There  are  always  plenty 
of  fine  cooks  ready  to  take  employment  in 
the  hotels  which  will  pay  high  enough 
salaries.  So  the  complaints  go  on  and 
grow  for  a  while.  There  are  bickerings 
and  fencings,  defiance  and  sharp  words 
betwixt  the  chief  cook  and  those  in  author- 
ity over  him  so  constantly  that  a  state  of 
sullen  enmity  becomes  the  ordinary  rule 
of  their  relations.  All  at  once  a  change  of 
temper  takes  place.  The  steward  or  man- 
ager or  proprietor,  as  the  case  may  be,  be- 
gins to  act  very  pleasantly  toward  the  chef, 
they  treat  him  to  smiles — sarcastic  smiles, 
but  perhaps  he  does  not  detect  the  sarcasm. 
He  has  his  own  way  undisputed  and  grows 
good-natured,  too.  It  is  wonderful  then 
what  peace  and  harmony  pervades  all  the 
culinary  departments;  it  seems  impossible 
for  anybody  to  do  wrong,  for  no  more 
faults  are  found  and  there  is  no  more  driv- 
ing. The  fact  is  the  steward  and  proprietor 
have  been  telegraphing  and  writing  and 


have  secured  their  new  man,  and  try  to 
practice  such  extreme  secrecy  about  their 
movements,  lest  the  chef  should  suspect 
the  truth  too  soon,  they  nearly  overdo  it, 
and  it  is  only  the  latters  egotism  that  pre- 
vents him  from  seeing  that  something  is 
going  to  happen,  for  all  those  around  him 
are  conscious  that  things  are  not  what  the} 
seem,  and  while  they  whisper  about  among 
themselves,  not  really  knowing  anything, 
they  have  nothing  openly  to  say.  Next, 
there  are  two  or  three  strangers  seen  tak- 
ing back  seats  in  the  office  or  waiting  room . 
they  came  on  the  morning  train.  Strangers 
of  all  sorts  are  arriving  constantly,  that  is 
nothing,  but,  somehow,  these  do  not  seem 
to  be  of  the  usual  sorts.  One  of  them,  at 
least,  is  well  dressed,  but  they  do  not  act 
like  commercial  travelers  nor  like  men  of 
leisure,  the  very  hall  boys  observe  that,  and 
when  it  is  seen  that  the  steward  is  more 
concerned  with  them  than  the  clerks  are,  a 
light  begins  to  break  and  the  whisperings 
about  the  house  increase.  Then  the  stew- 
ard takes  the  strangers,  or  at  least  the  best 
dressed  one  of  them,  and  shows  him  inside 
the  dining  room,  then  the  breakfast  room 
and  ladies'  ordinary,  then  to  the  pantry,  if 
that  happens  not  to  be  in  plain  sight  of  th<. 
kitchen,  then  takes  him  back  to  the  office, 
where  they  have  a  long  talk.  By  that  time 
the  headwaiter  knows  all  about  it,  although 
not  a  word  has  been  said  to  him,  for  he 
knows  that  if  it  had  been  any  other  strang- 
er viewing  the  house  out  of  curiosity,  it 
would  have  been  the  proprietor  or  a  clerk 
showing  him  around  instead  of  the  steward. 
But  why  so  much  secrecy?  Because  the 
chef  above  all  things  hates  to  have  it  said 
that  he  was  discharged,  or  that  he  was 
'•rolled,"  t.  e.,  pushed  out  of  his  place  by 
another  chef.  He  may  not  care  for  the 
loss  of  the  situation,  may  even  be  glad  of  a 
rest,  but  he  wants  the  first  word  and  to  say 
that  he  quit;  and  if  he  knows  for  certain 
that  a  new  chef  has  come  to  the  house,  he 
will  pull  off  his  jacket  instantly  and  make 
his  second  and  third  cooks  do  the  same, 
will  gather  up  his  knives  and  all  will  go  to 
the  office  and  demand  to  be  paid  off.  The 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


steward  wants  the  first  word,  too,  but  he 
thinks  more  about  the  ensuing  meals  and 
desires  to  let  the  new  chef  in  at  night  when 
his  opportunities  for  getting  acquainted 
with  his  new  surroundings  will  be  better 
than  between  meals.  Therefore  he  con- 
tinues the  secrecy  to  the  latest  moment, 
waits  until  all  the  cooks  have  left  the  kit- 
chen in  the  afternoon,  then  shows  the  new 
chef  the  interior  and  takes  him  to  see  the 
Ice  chest,  and  as  soon  as  supper  or  evening 
dinner  is  well  ready,  he  informs  the  present 
head  of  the  kitchen  that  his  money  is  ready 
for  him  in  the  office  and  he  will  not  be  re- 
quired to  prepare  breakfast.  Some  men  at 
such  a  juncture  are  kinder  and  better  nat- 
ured  than  others  and  yield  gracefully,  that 
is,  thev  act  like  gentlemen  and  throw  no 
obstacles  in  the  way  of  their  successor. 
Common  men,  however,  immediately  go 
around  and  undo  whatever  they  can  that 
has  been  done  in  preparation  for  the  next 
day.  They  throw  out  their  soup  stock, 
their  salad  dressings,  their  espagnole  and 
other  sauces,  their  aspics,  their  croquette 
preparations,  their  codfish  balls,  which 
were  ready  for  breakfast;  they  stop  the 
vegetable  parers  from  their  work,  forbid 
the  replenishment  of  coal  and  kindling 
boxes,  in  short  do  whatever  they  can  think 
of  in  half  an  hour  to  make  it  hard  for 
the  fellow  that  comes  after  them.  The 
pastry  cook  under  the  same  circumstances 
throws  away  his  yeast  and  neglects  to  set 
the  sponge  for  the  morning  bread,  hides 
away  the  baking  powder,  puts  soda  in  the 
cream  of  tartar  package,  hoping  to  cause 
mistakes,  puts  salt  into  his  wine  jellies  and 
custard  mixtures,  hoping  the  new  man  will 
use  them,  breaks  the  oven  damper  and 
stuffs  rags  into  the  flue.  And  yet  the 
breakfast  appears  on  the  table  the  next 
morning  the  same  as  usual,  and  if  any  dif- 
ference is  observed  by  the  guests,  it  is  very 
likely  to  be  in  the  way  of  improvement, 
for  the  new  hands  are  anxious  and  doubly 
attentive. 

The  obstacles  thrown  in  the  way  of  the 
new  chef  do  not  set  him  back  because  the 
tricks  are  all  so  old,  he  knows  them  all 


himself.  He  takes  no  notice  of  what  his 
predecessor  has  done,  or  what  he  has  left 
behind  him,  but  begins  everything  anew, 
even  if  he  has  to  bribe  some  of  the  help  to 
work  late  that  night;  and,  if  the  former 
chef  has  left  a  can  of  his  favorite  sauce  or 
a  salad,  just  to  give  the  new  man  some- 
thing to  pattern  after,  the  new  man  puts 
on  a  scornful  smile  and  pitches  it  into  the 
swill-barrel.  The  new  pastry  cook  knows 
in  advance  all  about  the  yeast  trick,  and  has 
brought  some  fresh  yeast  in  his  pocket 
ready  for  the  fray;  he  tastes  and  tests 
everything,  walks  straight  to  the  chimney 
and  pulls  out  the  stuffing  of  rags,  throws 
out  the  former  pastry  ccok's  treacherous 
compounds,  which  he  knows  are  only 
snares  to  entrap  him,  and  then  goes  10 
work,  and  the  day  succeeding  sees  every- 
thing going  on  as  usual ;  the  crisis  is  past. 

HOW  THE   NEW  CHEF  BEGINS    HIS    DUTIES. 

Sometimes  the  change  of  cooks  is  made 
by  common  consent  when  the  one  wants- 
to  get  away  for  reasons  of  his  own,  and 
there  is  then  no  secresy  and  no  surprise, 
which  must  be  regarded  fortunate  for  the 
new  man,  for  no  matter  how  well  experi- 
enced he  may  be,  he  finds  the  first  day  in  a 
new  situation  a  hard  one,  even  when  every- 
thing is  left  running  on  in  its  proper  order, 
and  so  much  the  worse  when  the  late  in- 
cumbent has  done  all  he  can  to  make  it  hot 
for  him.  It  is  hard  at  first  to  find  any  article 
that  he  wants,  he  must  find  the  thing  by 
searching  in  various  places  instead  of  being 
able  to  lay  his  hand  upon  it  from  habit  with- 
out thinking,  and  then  his  kitchen  hands  are 
strange  to  him.  However,  he  has  his  own 
second  cook,  perhaps  one  or  two  more 
whom  he  knows.  Beginning  at  night,  he 
first  makes  sure  of  his  fireman,  finding  out 
if  he  can  be  relied  upon  to  have  the  fires 
made  early  enough,  and  he  sees  to  it  with 
his  own  eyes  that  the  fuel  is  good  and 
easily  reached.  He  divides  the  breakfast 
work  in  his  own  mind  into  three  divisions, 
the  meats,  the  fries  and  the  vegetables. 
The  meats  Include  everything  that  is  to  be 
broiled,  also  the  eggs,  and  he  sees  whether 


44 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


the  small  meats  are  ready  cut  and  in  the 
refrigarator,  if  the  whole  list  which  appears 
upon  the  breakfast  bill  of  fare  is  there,  or 
whether  only  part  is  ready ;  then  he  pro- 
ceeds to  cut  or  have  cut  and  prepared  the 
missing  articles,  which  may  be  chickens, 
fish  to  broil,  or  ham.  The  fries  include 
fish,  oysters  in  all  ways,  fried  potatoes,  chip 
potatoes,  fried  mush,  codfish  balls,  breaded 
cutlets,  liver  and  tripe.  The  vegetables 
are  not  really  vegetables,  but  are  miscel- 
laneous dishes  grouped  together  that  way, 
because  prepared  in  part  by  the  vegetable 
cook;  they  are  oatmeal,  cornmeal  mush, 
grits,  stewed  potatoes,  hash,  fried  onions, 
stewed  tripe.  Some  of  these  things  the 
vegetable  cook  carries  out  complete,  others, 
such  as  the  stews,  that  cook  only  prepares 
oy  cutting  up  ready  and  the  second  cook 
finishes.  The  meat  division  belongs  to  the 
second  cook,  though  he  probably  will  have 
the  meat  cutter,  or  some  other,  to  do  the 
broiling,  he  having  to  dish  up  orders  and 
do  the  most  of  the  egg  cooking ;  his  first 
part  of  getting  ready  for  breakfast  is  the 
making  of  the  stews  and  assisting  with  the 
frying  of  cutlets  and  breaded  fish,  the  third 
cook  being  busy  getting  enough  Saratoga 
chips  and  French  fried  potatoes  along  with 
other  fries  to  keep  ahead  of  the  orders. 
The  head  cook's  duty  is  to  "make"  his  eggs, 
as  the  kitchen  phrase  is,  that  is  to  cook 
them  as  ordered,  but  this  he  only  does  dur- 
ing a  rush  of  orders,  and  after  seeing  that 
everything  is  running  on  right  and  nothing 
has  been  forgotten,  he  leaves  the  front  of 
the  range  and  puts  in  every  minute  he 
possibly  can  in  preparing  his  soups  and 
entrees  for  lunch  and  dinner.  His  ability 
to  run  the  kitchen  is  according  to  his  abil- 
ity to  remember  everything  that  must  be 
done  and  every  item  of  material  that  will 
be  required  to  work  with ;  he  makes  out 
his  requisition  over-night,  and  it  will  be 
well  for  him,  if  he  does  not  forget  some- 
thing of  small  value  seemingly,  yet  quite 
indispensable,  and  it  is  no  less  important 
for  him  to  know  which  one  of  his  half 
dozen  assistants  will  do  each  particular 
thing,  and  to  give  them  their  orders  accord- 


ingly. After  the  first  newness  is  over, 
each  of  these  hands  will  know  the  part  he 
or  she  has  to  perform,  and  will  do  the  same 
every  day,  but  at  first  all  the  strain  is  upon 
the  head  cook. 

The  first  breakfast  is,  however,  only  half 
his  cares ;  at  the  same  time  of  survey  of  the 
breakfast  meats  over  night,  he  also  sees 
what  there  will  be  for  dinner,  plans  the 
bill  of  fare,  if  the  steward  has  not  planned 
it  for  him,  and  looks  about  for  the  where- 
withal to  make  his  first  dinner  in  the  house 
a  credit  to  himself,  and  then  he  must  see 
that  whatever  will  require  the  most  time  is 
begun  first,  and  must  plan  the  work  of 
each  one  of  his  helpers.  His  second  leaves 
the  breakfast  work  next  morning  like  him- 
self, and  begins  the  work  on  lunch  and 
dinner,  and  side  by  side  they  both  do  the 
«ame  work,  boning  veal  or  fowls,  stuffing, 
larding,  barding,  cutting  meat  small,  cook- 
ing, pressing,  cooling  and  re-cooking  sweet- 
breads, mincing  mushrooms,  onions, 
parsley,  cutting  truffles  in  dice,  boning, 
pressing  and  afterwards  cutting  up  the 
cooked  calfs  head  for  soup,  making  cro- 
quettes, filleting  fish,  cutting  croutons  of 
bread,  preparing  salads,  making  sau'- 
finishing  the  soups;  and  the  second  COOK 
as  his  special  duty  makes  the  sweet  entrees, 
while  the  third  or  roast  cook  roasts  and 
boils  the  plain  meats,  the  vegetable  cook 
prepares  all  the  vegetables,  except  such 
things  as  breaded  and  fried  egg-plant,  and 
another  cooks  meat  for  the  hands. 

When  the  sixty  or  eighty  different  oper- 
ations have  been  merged  into  the  thirty  or 
forty  dishes,  which  constitute  the  meat 
cook's  part  of  the  great  hotel  dinner  and 
the  meal  is  about  ready,  he  takes  a  bill  of 
fare  which  has  just  come  from  the  printers, 
calls  the  half  dozen  principal  helpers  to 
him  and  reads  off  each  item,  every  accom- 
paniment, every  sauce,  every  form  of  veg- 
etables, and  asks  if  that  is  ready.  If  any- 
thing has  been  forgot,  they  make  haste  to 
get  it  ready  yet  before  the  doors  open. 

When  the  dinner  is  about  over,  and  the 
quantities  have  proved  to  be  just  right,  and 
no  person  has  been  denied  anything  he 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


45 


called  for,  the  headwaiter  steps  into  the 
carving  room  and  passes  some  pleasant 
remark  to  the  steward ;  the  steward  strolls 
over  to  where  the  new  chef  stands,  makes 
some  pleasant  remark  to  him  and  they 
shake  hands.  Soon  after  the  chef  finds 
most  of  his  assistants  near  him,  and-  sud 
denly  he  says: 

"Well,  boys,  how  was  that  for  a  dinner?" 

"Went  off  first  rate,"  says  one  cautiously. 

"A  pretty  good  dinner,"  says  another, 
with  slowness  and  great  emphasis  on  each 
syllable. 

"Well  I  should  say  it  was !"  exclaims  the 
chef,  with  more  emphasis  still,  "consider- 
ing it  was  the  first  day,  too !  Boys,  there's 
a  bottle  of  beer  apeice  for  you  in  the  basket 
under  my  desk — there's  a  bottle  or  two  of 
Rhine  wine  there,  besides,  if  any  of  you 
would  rather  have  it,  help  yourselves." 
And  the  chef  goes  to  his  room. 

THE    DRINKING    HABITS    OF   COOKS. 

While  there  are  and  can  be  only  a  very 
few  hotels  of  the  largest  size  and  highest 
style,  what  few  there  are  have  great  in- 
fluence in  setting  the  fashions  in  interior 
management,  and  many  among  the  vast 
number  of  smaller  hotel  proprietors,  as 
well  as  their  employes,  have  had  unpleasant 
experiences  of  the  slighting  manner,  the 
real  contempt  with  which  the  cooks  from 
those  larger  hotels  speak  of  the  smaller  and 
less  pretentious  houses,  because  of  their 
denial  of  certain  privileges  and  their  greater 
regard  to  expenses.  But  one  of  the  cus- 
toms of  the  largest  hotels,  is  a  decidedly 
pernicious  one  and  brings  back  punishment 
upon  the  employer  by  increasing  the  habit 


of  intemperance  among  their  employe's, 
that  is  the  custom  of  serving  out  regular 
rations  of  liquor  and  an  almost  unrestricted 
issue  of  wines  and  liquors  on  demand, 
ostensibly  for  cooking  purposes.  It  looks 
generous  in  the  hotel-keeper,  but  it  is  not 
really  so,  but  the  cooks  secure  the  conces- 
sion through  their  united  demands.  When  a 
cook  is  wanted,  telegraphed  for,  written 
for,  as  shown  in  a  preceding  page,  he  first 
inquires  about  the  amount  of  salary  offered 
and  next  stipulates  how  much  liquors  and 
wines  per  day  shall  be  allowed  to  the  kit- 
chen. When  he  get?  to  work,  first  thing 
among  the  morning  issues  from  the  store- 
room comes  a  quart  of  whiskey,  which  he 
divides  among  the  hands,  taking  two  shares 
for  himself.  At  the  rooks'  nine  o'clock 
breakfast,  instead  of  coffee  they  each  drink 
a  pint  of  cheap  California  wine,  or,  if  they 
do  not  like  that,  they  are  allowed  a  pint 
bottle  of  beer,  and  at  least  once  or  twice 
more  during  the  day  wine  or  beer  is  served 
out  again,  while  the  chef,  as  well  as  head 
pastry  cook,  has  a  supply  of  various  liquors 
always  at  hand.  They  would  be  more 
than  human,  if  they  could  avoid  excess 
under  such  circumstances.  But  cooks  must 
drink  something,  theirs  is  a  thirsty  occu- 
pation. They  do  not  need  the  whiskey 
early  in  the  morning,  and  that  is  the  most 
harmful  of  all  their  allowances,  but  let  the 
hotel  keeper  or  steward  act  as  their  friend, 
give  them  the  needed  bottle  of  weak  wine 
or  cool  and  harmless  beer  in  the  heat  of 
the  day  when  the  work  is  hard,  and  never 
allow  bottles  of  rum  or  other  liquors  to  be 
issued  at  all.  He  should  pour  the  wine  in 
the  soup  and  brandy  or  rum  in  the  sauce 
himself. 


HOW  TO  WRITE  THE  BILL  OF  FARE. 


With  a  great  many  persons  occupied 
daily  in  the  preparation  of  the  hotel  din- 
ners, the  composition  of  the  bill  of  fare  is 
the  one  literary  effort  of  their  life,  it  is 
their  first  timid  step  upon  the  threshold  of 
the  temple  of  belles  lettres,  where  they  be- 
gin to  use  the  strange  words  of  a  strange 
language  and  watch  for  the  effect  to  see 
whether  they  are  understood  and  whether 
they  have  said  them  aright.  The  words 
and  the  language  and  the  whole  operation 
.  of  forming  the  bill  of  fare,  are  strange  for 
the  reason  that  our  people  generally  are 
not  "gastronomically  educated,"  as  the 
latest  phrase  has  it;  neither  the  great  mass 
of  the  people,  who  come  to  the  hotels,  nor 
many  of  those  whose  business  it  is  to  cater 
to  their  wants,  have  ever  studied  the  sub- 
ject of  the  composition  of  various  dishes 
and  their  proper  names,  or  thought  much 
about  the  correct  order  of  serving  them, 
while  still  it  is  felt  that  a  code  of  gastrono- 
mical  proprieties  must  have  been  form- 
ulated somewhere  in  the  upper  regions  of 
culture,  and  every  sort  of  writer  of  the  bill 
of  fare  tries  to  show  his  acquaintance  with 
it  according  to  his  light.  In  looking  over 
a  promiscous  collection,  especially  of  hotel 
dinner  bills,  it  is  not  difficult  to  pick  out 
the  bad  examples  which  show  how  "fools 
rush  in  where  angels  fear  to  tread,"  and 
also  the  specimens  which  have  emanated 
from  a  student  of  the  subject  who  feels  a 
proper  pride  in  his  performance,  because 
he  understands  the  motives  which  lie  at 
the  bottom  ;•  the  great  majority  are,  how- 
ever, of  the  sort  that  are  written  as  a  task 
which  must  be  performed  daily  by  some- 
body and  bear  no  marks  of  the  pleasure 
which  that  task  possibly  may  bring,  when 
the  reasons  for  every  line  and  every  sort 
of  arrangement  are  thoroughly  compre- 
hended. 


THE  AMERICAN    HOTEL   DINNER    BILL  THE 
STANDARD. 

Premising,  for  the  information  of  the 
learner,  that  there  are  other  forms  of  the 
bill  of  fare  suitable  for  private  parties, 
formal  banquets  and  for  club  dinners,  it 
may  confidently  be  asserted  that  the  pre- 
sent general  form  of  bill  in  use  at  the  hotels 
of  the  United  States  and  Canada  is  the  best 
for  the  purpose  of  the  regular  dinner  or 
table  d'  hote  system,  and  the  most  perfect 
which  could  be  devised,  both  for  the  display 
of  culinary  proficiency  and  for  the  allow- 
ance of  the  freest  choice  to  the  dinner. 
This  statement  is  made  for  the  benefit  of 
those  who  may  chance  to  pick  up  speci- 
mens of  old-country  bills  divided  into 
"First  Service — Second  Service,"  or  '•'•Pre- 
miere Service  —  Deuxieme  Service  —  Troi- 
sieme  Service"  and  the  several  different 
forms  adopted  by  various  clubs  for  the 
sake  of  singularity,  as  well  as  the  specimens 
of  dinners  served  in  courses,  all  of  them 
forms  not  suited  to  the  requirements  of  the 
hotel  dinner  and  therefore  not  to  be 
adopted  unawares  in  the  effort  for  improve- 
ment. 

The  present  form  has,  so  to  speak,  formed 
itself  in  accordance  with  the  tastes  and  re- 
quirements of  the  people  for  whom  hotels 
exist,  the  arrangement  of  dishes  is  accord- 
ing to  their  home-formed  habits;  by  which 
is  meant  that  our  people  take  meats  and 
savories  but  once  in  the  meal  and  do  not 
take  meats  again  in  the  "second  service," 
but  only  sweets  and  fruit. 

THE    HOTEL    PRESS    AND    RECENT    IM 
PROVEMENTS. 

The  good  taste  and  good  sense  which 
characterizes  the  hotel  bill  of  fare  in  general 
is  largely  attributable  to  the  course  of  teach- 
ing and  criticism  of  the  hotel  newspapers 
for,  up  to  a  few  years  ago,  a  vast  proportion 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


47 


of  the  bills  were  very  ridiculous  affairs  and 
the  greatest  mostrosities  among  them  were 
those  which  they  that  wrote  them  thought 
were  the  best.  It  is  only  about  a  dozen 
vears  since  hotel  papers  came  into  exist- 
ence. Before  that  time  there  were  no 
sources  of  information  on  such  subjects 
but  a  few  antiquated  cook-books  which 
taught  by-gone  styles,  and  the  mixed  bills 
of  the  cooks  of  various  nationalities  em- 
ployed in  the  larger  hotels.  These  showed 
lists  of  dishes  enough  and  good  ones,  of 
course,  but  without  the  translations  of  their 
names  into  plain  English  and  the  statement 
of  the  reason  for  their  appearing  in  any 
particular  order  of  succession,  su6h  exam- 
ples did  more  harm  than  good.  The  sub- 
sequent .intelligent  discussion  of  the 
questions  led  to  such  favorable  results  that 
there  is  no  diffculty  now  in  the  learner 
finding  a  riliable  pattern  since  the  bill  of 
almost  any  good  hotel  may  be  taken  as  a 
model,  while  the  main  arguments  on  the 
various  points  may  be  found  in  the  hotel 
books  now  in  existence  and  need  not  be 
gone  over  again  in  this  place.  Some  minor 
questions  still  arise,  however,  which  will 
be  briefly  stated  in  order  to  a  full  under- 
standing, it  being  noted  in  advance  that  a 
perfect  uniformity  in  the  bills  of  all  the 
hotels  would  be  very  undesirable ;  we  can 
usually  select  our  favorite  newspapers  from 
a  pile  of  papers  through  some  individuality 
of  appearance,  their  type,  their  make  up, 
their  color,  their  headings  or  absence  of 
them,  and  we  should  value  this  stamp  of 
individuality  just  as  much  in  hotel  bills  of 
fare  as  in  newspapers. 

BILL   OF    FARE    OR    MENU. 

Strictly  speaking  these  words  are  not  of 
quite  the  same  significance.  The  menu  is 
the  fare,  the  bill  of  fare  is  to  tell  what  the 
fare  consists  of;  the  menu  is  the  "lay  out," 
the  bill  of  fare  is  the  itemized  description 
of  the  "  lay-out,"  as  if  one  should  say,  "this 
is  my  library ;  this  is  the  catalogue  of  my 
library."  People  meet  and  discuss  or  enjoy 
the  menu  or  fare,  but  they  do  not  discuss 
the  bill  of  fare.  Nevertheless,  by  the 
elasticity  of  language,  menu  is  used  in  the 


same  sense  as  bill  of  fare,  and  either  word 
may  be  chosen  with  propriety;  menu  is 
thought  to  be  the  more  stylish  of  the  two 
and  is  oftenest  preferred  now  to  head  the 
dinner  list.  In  this  connection  it  may  not 
be  out  of  place  to  remark  that  cuisine  also 
has  a  double  sense,  meaning  both  kitchen 
and  cooking ;  la  cuisine  is  the  kitchen,  but 
when  it  is  said  that  any  hotel  is  noted  for 
its  excellence  of  its  cuisine  it  implies  the 
other  meaning  of  the  word — cooking. 
Many  hotels  reject  the  use  of  both  menu 
and  bill  of  fare,  and  head  their  bills  with 
the  word  "Dinner."  Others,  again,  follow 
the  mothod  of  the  annexed  example  and 
make  the  announcement  of  table  </'  hote 
(which  is  equivalent  to  our  plain  American 
"regular  dinner")  do  duty  instead  of  either 
term. 

In  regard  to  the  examples  of  bills  of  fare 
here  to  be  found,  it  must  be  explained  that 
they  are  taken  up  by  chance  from  a  very 
large  collection  and  are  neither  selected  as 
models  or  otherwise,  but  are  only  the  first 
that  came  to  hand  which  happen  to  illu- 
strate the  particular  point  under  consider- 
ation. 

Metropolitan  Hotel  Eestaurant. 

Thursday,  February  4,  iSSb. 

TABLE  D'  HOTE  3  TO  1  O'CLOCK 
INCLUDING  WINE,  $1.00. 

Oysters  on  half  shell 
Consomm£  vermicelli       Mock  turtle  i  la  Francaise 

Boiled  halibut,  lobster  sauce 
Potatoes  Hollandaise 

Smoked  tongue  with  green  kale 

Fricassee  of  chicken  wings  with  oysters 

Sauerkraut  &  la  Francfort  au  jus 
Fresh  beef  tongue  brais^e,  sauce  piquante 
Spaghetti  !!£  a  la  Napolitaine 


Spaghe 
Ribs  of  beef 


Stewed  tomatoes 
Boiled  rice 


Turkev,  cranberry  sauce 
Salad  " 

Mashed  potatoes 
Peas 


Bread  pudding,  wine  sauce 

Assorted  cakes  Strawberry  ice  cream 

Assorted  fruit 


French  coffee 


M  edoc 


English  cheece 


The  very  choicest  selection  of  Cigars  to  be  friai  in  ths 
City,  for  sale  in  Cafe. 

JOHN  M.  OTTER,  MANAGER. 


48 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


HEADINGS   OR   NO    HEADINGS? 

The  above  very  excellent  bill  is  strictly 
in  accord  with  the  opinions  and  teachings 
of  the  hotel  press,  unless  an  exception  be 
taken  to  the  cigar  line  at  the  bottom,  and 
particularly  so  in  regard  to  the  small  num- 
ber of  dishes,  the  absence  of  "relishes," 
and  the  absence  of  headings.  Here  is  an 
example  from  a  hotel  in  the  extreme  South, 
but  under  New  York  management  and 
running  at  four  dollars  a  day,  which  uses 
headings  and  includes  "relishes,"  and  there 
are  good  reasons  on  this  side  of  the  ques- 
tion, too. 


FROM  6  TO  8. 

MONDAY,  ALARCH  ib,  1885. 


St.  Germaine. 


SOUP., 

Consomin6  Printanier  Roval. 


FISH 

Boiled  Sea  Bass,  Sauce  Hoilandaise. 

Potatoes  Parisienne. 

RELEVE. 

Corned  Bjef  and  Cabbage. 

ENTREES. 

Becassines  en  Salmi  a  1'Anoienne. 

Fricandeau  of  Veal,  Biurgeoise. 

spaghetti  au  Gratin,  Piemontaise. 

Chocolate  Fritters,  Vanilla  Sauce. 

ROAST. 

Ribs  of  B-ef.          Ham,  Champagne  Sauce. 
Young  Turkey,  Stuffed. 

CAME. 

Bran;  with  Jelly. 

VEGETABLES. 

Boiled  Potatoes.  Mashed  Turnips. 

Green  Peas.         I'aked  Sweet  Potatoes. 


RELISHES. 

Horse  Radish.  Gherkins. 

Chow-Chow.      Lettuce. 


White  Onions. 
Olives. 


PASTRY  AND  DESSERT. 

Steamed  Raisin  Pudding,  Brandy  Sauce. 

Apple  Pie.          Pound  Cake.          Chocolnte  Slices. 

Jelly  Drops.        Lemon  Sherbet. 

Apples.        Oranges.        Asorted  Nuts.        Raisins. 
Roquefort,  Edam  and  Orange  Co.  Cheese. 

Crackers. 
COFFEE.  TEA. 

Waiters  are  furnished  -with  Wine  Cards. 

All  Dishes  not  on  the  Bill  of  Fare,  and  all  Fruit  or 
Lunch  taken  from  Table  will  be  charged  extra. 

Guests  having  friends  to  meals  will  please  register 

at  office. 
BREAKFAST  FROM  7  to  10;  SUNDAY  FROM  8  to  n. 

The  writer  of  these  lines  prefers  to  use 
headings,  always  writes  his  bills  that  way, 


considering  that  the  hotel  is  an  inn,  a  car- 
avansary where  people  come  as  strangers, 
and  the  ways  of  the  house  should  be  made 
as  plain  as  possible  for  them.  Very  few  of 
these  transients  are  "gastronomically  edu- 
cated," few  of  them,  comparatively,  have 
ever  ordered  from  a  bill  of  fare,  and  with  a 
waiter  standing  by  waiting  for  them  to 
speak,  they  have  trouble  enough  to  order 
their  meal  intelligently  even  with  the  help 
of  plain  headings ;  the  bill  without  headings 
must  seem  like  a  mass  of  dishes  thrown 
together  without  order  and  without  a  pur- 
pose. Witness  the  following  bill  without 
headings,  divisions  or  spaces,  as  it  is  found 
in  a  New  York  hotel  paper.  Possibly  .the 
original  was  better  looking. 

WICTORIA  HOTEL. 

Blue  Point  Oysters 

Creme  a  la  Windsor    Consomme  Xapolitaine 

Fondu  of  Cheese  on  Toast  Krench  Sardines 

Saucisson  D' Aries     Celery    Queen  Olives 

Boiled  Redsnapper,  Sauce  Fiamande 

Potatoes    Nature!    Sautees    au    Beurre 

Turkev  Boiled,   Celery  Sauce  Smoked  Jowl  with 

Sauerkraut  Loin  of  veal  stuffed,  Sauce 

Andalouse 

Sirloin  of  Beef  larded  a  la  Lithuanienne 
Lamb  Chops  Farandale 

Rice  Croquettes  with  Apricots 
Sherbet  au  Citron 

Ribs  of  Beef        Capon,  Giblet  Sauce         Saddle  of 

Mutton    Spare  Ribs  of  Deerf oot  f arm  pork, 

Apple  Sauce    Red  head  Duck  with 

Orange  Marmalade 
Salads — Chicken  Mayonnaise  Lobster  Potato 

Lettuce 
Pate  de  Foie  Grass  Truffe         Boned  Chicken  with 

Jelly 

Plain  Lobster  Tongue  Etc 

Boiled  Potatoes    Mashed  Potatpes    Boiled  Onions 

Rice    Peas    Beets    Spinach     Baked  Sweet 

Potatoes  Squash  Fried  Oyster  Plant 

Spaghetti  Italienne 

Rice  Pudding,  Port  Wine  Since 

Cocoanut  Pie,    Green  Gape  Pie,    Almond  Slices, 

Gateaux    Boston  Cream  Cukes    Wine  Jelly 

Vanilla  Ice  Cream. 
Xuts     Raisins     Figs     Fruits 

American,  Rouquefort,  Brie  and  Neufchatel  Cheese 
cafe 

The  reason  given  for  omitting  headings 
from  the  bill  of  fare  is  that  it  is  more 
"tony"  to  do  without  them  Their  absence 
implies  a  compliment  to  the  guests  by  the 
supposition  that  they  are  "gastronomically 
educated,"  that  they  do  know  the  proper 
order  of  dishes  and  the  locality  in  which  to 
look  for  them  without  anv  guiding  signs. 
It  will  be  seen,  then,  that  the  bill  without 
headings  is  proper  for  select  family  hotels, 
but  not  best  for  commercial  hotels,  railroad 
depot  hotels,  nor  for  the  generality  of  re- 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


49 


sort  houses.  And  if  the  bill  without  head- 
Ings  is  desired  in  such  establishments,  the 
dishes  should  be  few  as  in  our  first  sample 
menu,  so  that  they  may  be  comprehended 
at  once  and  the  dinner  selected  with  ease 
even  by  a  stranger  to  hotel  customs. 

WHAT    SHOULD   THE    HEADINGS   BE? 

The  ordinary  headings  are  soup,  fish, 
boiled,  roasts,  entrees,  vegetables,  cold 
dishes,  pastry,  dessert.  That  is  for  com- 
mon life  without  any  pretentions  to  style, 
and  the  order  of  arrangement  is  as  the 
people  generally  want  it,  in  that  order  they 
take  their  dinner.  And  here  it  may  as 
well  be  explained  that  pastry  is  not  prop- 
erly called  dessert,  although  it  is  the  gen- 
eral custom  to  apply  the  term  dessert  to  all 
the  sweets  which  constitute  the  second 
service  of  the  dinner.  "Pastry  and  dessert" 
is  the  most  convenient  foi  m  as  it  admits 
everything,  but  "dessert"  alone  means 
fruit,  confectionery,  very  light  sweets  and 
ices.  But  where  something  above  the  or- 
dinary is  desired,  when  the  meals  and  the 
menu  are  intended  for  something  above 
the  run  of  common  life,  more  divisions 
appear  and  more  headings.  The  first 
example  menu  and  the  second  are  alike  in 
one  particular,  they  make  the  "Boiled" 
appear  before  the  "Entrees"  and  the 
"Roast"  after  them,  and  the  second  uses 
the  word  "Releve"  instead  of  "Boiled,"  as 
would  be  the  case  in  the  first  example  were 
headings  used  in  it  at  all.  This  arrange- 
ment is  immaterial  and  merely  a  matter  of 
literary  taste,  as  the  people  for  whom  the 
dinner  is  prepared  nearly  always  take  all 
their  meats,  whether  boiled,  roasted,  entrees 
or  game,  at  one  and  the  same  time,  and  the 
vegetables  of  their  choice  with  them.  If 
the  third  example  menu  were  properly 
strung  out  and  the  headings  inserted,  it 
would  show  cold  hors  d'oeuvres,  soup,  hot 
hors  d'ceuvres,  fish,  releves,  entrees,  sorbet, 
roasts,  game,  salad,  and  cold  dishes,  veg- 
etables, pastry,  dessert,  thirteen  headings 
besides  cheese  and  coffee,  which  usually  go 
as  distinct  items  without  headings,  but 
which  nevertheless  make  up  the  thirteen 


courses  into  which  such  a  dinner  can  be 
divided.  The  Victoria  menu  is  faulty  in 
respect  to  mixing  the  hot  and  cold  hors 
d  'ceuvres  or  side  dishes.  Oj  sters  raw,  al- 
though some  what  of  an  American  specialty, 
are  but  one  of  the  cold  hors  d  ''ceuvres,  or 
appetizers,  preliminary  to  the  meal  and  no 
more  entitled  to  stand  alone  than  the 
others,  "French  Sardines  —  Saucisson 
d' Aries — Celery  and  Queen  Olives,"  which 
all  strictly  belong  in  the  same  place  as  the 
oysters.  The  hot  hors  d'' ceuvres  belong 
where  the  one  in  that  bill  appears ;  it  is  the 
"Fondu  of  Cheese  on  Toast,"  or  Welsh 
rarebit.  All  of  this  style  is,  however,  felt 
to  be  very  cumbersome ;  it  is  difficult  to 
handle  all  these  formalities  in  strict  pro- 
priety and  the  sensible  thing  is  to  drop  the 
superfluities — there  is  no  use  for  the  hot 
hors  d'aeuvre,  except  in  a  formal  course 
dinner,  and  that  being  omitted,  such  side 
dishes  as  sliced  tomatoes,  olives  and  celery 
are  placed  after  the  soup  instead  of  it. 

COMPLIMENTARY  banquet  given  by  Mr.  Alder- 
rnan  Whitehead  to  Major  and  Sheriff  Davies  and  a 
large  number  of  the  inhabitants  of  Cheapward,  at 
the  Guildhall  Tavern,  London,  on  the  26  of  October. 
The  catering  was  up  to  Messrs.  Ritter  &  Clifford's 
best  form,  and  the  menu  as  follows: 

HOKS  D'CEUVRES. 
Haute  Sauterne.    Sardines.      Prawns.      Caviare. 
Foie  Gras.     Olives. 


Clear  Turtle.    Thick  Turtle. 

Soles  a  la  Normande. 

Stewed  Eels  en  Matelotte. 

Turbot,  Hollandaise  and  Tartar 

Sauces. 
Fried  Smelts. 

Lobster  Cutlets. 
Sweethreads  with  Truffles. 

Salmi  of  Widgeon. 
Roast  Turkey   Poults. 

Ox  Tongue. 

Boiled  Capons  and  Cumberland 
Hams. 

Saddle  Mutton,  French  Salads. 
Braized  Calves  Head. 

Wild  Ducks.     Partridges. 
Mushrooms. 

German    Puddings. 

Curacao  Jelly. 

Maraschino  Jelly. 

Chartreuse  of  Grapes. 

Swiss  Pastry. 

DESSERT. 

ICES. 

Lemon  Water. 
Raspberry  Cream. 


Turtle  Punch. 


Vino  de  Pasto. 

RudesheimerBerg. 

Irroy,  iSSo. 

Veuve  Clicquot, 
1880. 

Piper's  Tres  Sec., 

iSSo. 
Perinet  et  Fils, 

1880. 
Pommery  et  Greqo, 

1880. 


Claret. 
Chateau  la  Rose. 


Sandeman's  Old 
Port. 


50 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


If  headings  are  used  and  kors  cCceuvres 
appear  under  their  proper  head,  they  are 
not  designated  as  hot  or  cold,  however,  for 
their  place  in  the  bill  shows  of  which  de- 
scription they  are,  as  the  bill  of  fare  on  the 
preceding  page  illustrates.  Had  this  been 
in  the  United  States  the  first  section  would 
have  been  "Blue  Point  Oysters,"  and  there 
might  have  been  a  total  omission  of  all  the 
other  cold  hors  d'ceuvres,  just  as  in  this  bill 
there  is  a  total  omission  of  the  vegetables, 
which  of  course  they  had,  as  not  worth 
mentioning. 

To  be  fair,  however,  here  is  an  example 
where  both  classes  of  Itors  d'cettvre  are 
printed  after  the  soup,  the  "Bouchees 
Viennoises"  being  Vienna  patties,  a  hot 
kors  d'aeuvre,  as  most  of  those  small  trifles 
are,  which  in  our  American  bills  are  classed 
as  entrees. 

Menu  of  a  dinner  served  at  the  Continental,  Paris, 
being  a  banquet  given  to  Hon.  Geo.  Walker  by  the 
Stanley  Club.  The  dinner  was  of  thirty  covers,  and 
this  is  what  they  had: 

MENU. 

Consomm^  aux  pointes  et  quenelles  bisque. 

Hors  d'ceuvre  vane's. 

Bouchees   Viennoises. 

Turbot,  sauce  crevettes  et  Hollandaise. 

Poulardes  a  la  Chevali6re  aux  truffes. 

Langouste  a  la  Parisienne. 

Sorbet  Jamaique. 
Faisans  et  perdreaux  sur  croustades. 

Salade. 
Pat<5s  de  foie  gras  de  S'raebourg. 

Petits  pois  a  la  financiere. 
Bomb  Glac6e  vaniile  et  abricots. 

Gateau  Havana  is. 
Corbeilles  de  fruis.     Bonbons. 

Petits  fours. 

Xeres.    Chateau  Durcc.    Chateau  Clemens. 

Pommard.          Bacherolles.          Medoc  en  carafes. 

Champagne.     Heidsieck.     Monopole. 

Caf6  et  Liqueurs. 

As,  perhaps,  not  one  in  ten  thousand  in 
this  country  understand  French,  as  applied 
to  dishes  in  a  menu,  and  as  these  articles 
are  intended  to  be  informatory,  the  above 
may  be  translated  thus : 

SOUPS — clear  soup  with  Asparagus  points 
and  the  thick  soup  which  we  call  cream  a 
la  duchesse.  HORS  D'CEUVRES  —  various 
(varies),  as,  for  example,  in  the  London  bill 
preceding.  HORS  D'CEUVRE — (hot)  Vienna 
patties  or  bouchees  ati  salpi<^on.  FISH — 
turbot,  with  choice  of  two  sauces,  shrimp 
and  hollandaise.  ENTREES — chicken  fried, 
truffle  sauce,  sea  crayfish  or  small  lobster 
in  Parisian  style.  SORBET — with  Jamaica 


rum,  perhaps  a  new  name  for  Roman  or 
ri:m  punch.  GAME — pheasants  and  par- 
tridges on  ornamental  fried  toast.  SALADS 
— not  specified  what  kind.  Raised  pies  of 
foie-gras  (Strasbourg  fat  goose  liver),  green 
peas  in  sauce,  moulded  vanilla  ar.J  apricot 
ice  creams,  Havana  cake,  baskets  of  fruit, 
candies,  small  cakes,  wines,  coffee  and 
liqueurs. 

PIFTH  AVENUE  HOTEL,  New  Y 
Oysters  on  half  shell 

SOUPS. 
Paysanne  Clarr. 

FISH. 

Boiled  Haddock,  shrimp  sauce  Baked  Sole,  Genoise 
Small  Potatoes 

RELEVES. 

Leg  of  Mutton,  caper  sauce        Corned  Beef  and 
Cabbage    Chicken  and  Pork     Calf's  Head 
brain  sauce      Beef  Tongue       1 

COLD  DISHES. 

Beef  Tongue     Roast  Beef     Ham      Bor.erl  Turkey 

Lobster  plain    Chicken  Salad    Lobster  Salad 

Lamb         Head  Cheese 

ENTREES. 

Sirloin  of  Beef  Ji  la  Bordelaise 
Snipe  bardie  sur  croustade 

Epigramme  of  Lamb  aux  pet::- 

Bouch^es  of  Ovsters  a  ia  R-eine 
Chicken  &  la  Chassei:: 

Cream  Fritters,  ' .-j.n'\..z  flavor 
ROASTS. 

Chicken      Ham  champagne  sauce      Mongrel  Duck 
Beef       Saddle  of  Mutton      1u:-"<-y 

Curacoa  Sherbet 

GAME. 

Antelope 
VEGETABLES. 

Boiled  Potatoes          Onions          Stew-ed  Tomatoes. 
Mashed  Potatoes      Beets      Swee:  P 
Hominy    Fried  Parsnips    T 
Spinach          String  Bear.s 
PASTRY  AND  DESSERT. 
Suet  Pudding,    -vine  sauce 
Rice  Pudding         Sliced  Apple  Pie 
Cocoanut   Pie  Fancy    Mac:- 

Holland  Cake        Charlotte  Russe        Ladies'  Cake 
Almonds     Oranges     Raisins     Pecan  Xuts 

Apples      Grapes     Pears      Bar 
Hickory  Xuts     Figs     English  Walnuts 
Vanilla  Ire  Cream 
Coffee. 

When,  in  the  matter  of  these  side  dishes 
or  of  any  other  question  of  arrangement, 
there  seems  to  be  such  diversity  of  practice 
even  amongst  the  higher  class  of  caterers, 
we  come  back  to  the  fact  that  there  is  such 
a  thing  as  an  American  hotel  bill  of  fare  that 
is  a  pattern  to  itself,  and  indeed  is  becoming 
a  pattern  to  many  on  the  other  side  of  the 
Atlantic  as  numerous  printed  bills  of  their 
hotels  show,  and  the  old  forms,  which  are 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


51 


more  perplexing  than  useful  to  follow,  are 
In  our  bills  of  fare  ignored  and  left  over 
for  those  to  carry  out  whose  duties  compel 
them  to  conform  to  foreign  usages.  The 
hotel  narr.ed  on  preceding  page  will  be  re- 
cognized as  a  representative  one  and  one 
of  the  largest  size,  yet  its  bill  of  fare  is  very 
faulty  in  arrangement,  if  it  is  to  be  judged 
by  foreign  rules ;  it  is,  curiously  enough,  the 
desperate  effort  to  make  an  American  hotel 
bill  conform  to  a  Parisian  pattern,  in  reason 
and  without  reason,  which  makes  it  faulty, 
for  it  is  neither  the  one  nor  the  other;  the 
curacoa  sherbet,  the  antelope,  the  snipe  and 
the  salads  are  all  out  of  their  proper  places 
beyond  dispute,  while  other  dishes  and 
even  divisions  stand  upon  disputed  ground. 
But  to  finish  the  hors  d'ceuvres  question: 
One  object  of  inserting  the  Fifth  Avenue 
Hotel  hill  on  preceding  page  was  to  show 
that  even  the  best  hotels  do  not  always 
enumerate  such  things  as  come  under  that 
designation,  but  if  they  do,  the  proper  place 
for  celery,  olives,  sliced  tomatoes  and  sim- 
ilar cold  trifles  is  after  the  soup.  It  is 
necessary  to  state  this  definitely  because 
serious  contentions  often  arise  between 
steward  and  proprietor  on  just  such  ques- 
tions, and  there  are  some  who  maintain 
that  such  cold  "appetizers"  should  be 
written  in  after  the  fish  "  to  take  away  the 
taste  of  fish,"  as  they  reason.  In  the 
smaller  hotels,  where  the  cold  trifles  are 
placed  on  the  table  in  advance  to  facilitate 
quick  service  and  save  waiters'  labor,  the 
particular  line  occupied  in  the  bill  of  fare 
is  of  little  consequence,  but  the  best  usage 
decides  after  the  soup.  For  example: 

HORS   D'CEUVRE. 

Oysters  on  half  shell. 

SOUPS. 
Clam  Paysanne 


Celery    Olives    Sardines    Prawns    Caviar 


FISH. 

Boiled  Haddock,  shrimp  sauce  Baked  Sole  Genoise 
Parisian  Potatoes. 

SERVING    POTATOES    WITH    FISH. 

A  cursory  examination  of  the  hotel  bills 
of  fare  from   all  parts  of  the  country  will 


show  that  the  custom  of  serving  potatoes 
in  some  fancy  form  with  fish  has  become 
very  general,  so  much  so  that  a  bill  does 
not  seem  to  be  complete  nor  as  stylish  a» 
it  might  be  if  that  feature  happens  to  have 
been  omitted.  It  is  a  recent  custom  which 
originated  in  the  famous  restaurants  of 
Paris,  notably  at  Brebant's,  for  whom  one 
of  the  forms  of  potatoes  is  named,  that  we 
designate  a  la  Brabant.  It  comes  quite  as 
natural  to  eat  vegetables  with  fish  as  with  - 
meat,  yet  foreign  custom,  and  particularly 
English  custom,  has  confined  us  hereto- 
fore to  bread — generally  brown  bread — 
with  that  course.  The  ornamental  addi- 
tion of  potatoes  to  the  sauce  is  the  more 
satisfactory,  because  the  individual  style  of 
service  of  the  present  day  shuts  out  most 
of  the  ornamental  styles  of  dishes  that 
used  to  be  served  whole.  Potato  croquettes 
and  croquette  balls,  leaf,  heart  and  star 
shapes  of  duchesse  potatoes  carefully  egged 
over  and  baked,  and,  indeed,  all  the  varia- 
tions  that  are  in  use  are  great  helps  to  the 
appearance  of  a  plate  of  fish. 

ALWAYS   SERVE    FISH    ON   SMALL   PLATES. 

New  waiters  generally  have  to  be  in- 
structed on  this  point,  as  they  are  most  apt 
to  take  a  meat  dish  for  fish.  But  if  they 
serve  it  so,  the  person  at  table  will  slip  it 
from  the  dish  to  his  plate,  and  the  dinner 
plate  will  then  have  to  be  changed  for  the 
meat  course.  Apart  from  that  considera- 
tion, the  fish  looks  better  on  a  dessert  plate, 
and  it  cannot  be  transferred  to  another 
without  "mussing"  it  up  with  its  sauce. 
The  diner  eats  it  from  its  own  small  plate, 
garnished  as  the  cook  sends  it  in. 

WHICH    FIRST,  JOINTS    OR    ENTREES? 

It  will  be  observed  that  in  all  the  ex- 
ample bills  of  fare  thus  far  shown  the  roast 
meats  appear  after  the  entrees;  in  the  first 
one  the  entrees  come  next  after  the  fish,  in 
the  others  the  "fence  is  straddled"  and  the 
boiled  meats  precede  entrees  and  roast 
meats  follow  them  in  another  place.  Here 
is  a  Scottish  bill  that  looks  a  good  deal  like 
American  style  except  that  it  has  no  vege- 


52 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


tables  or  other  minor  mention,  and  in  this, 
too,  the  entrees  follow  the  fish.  The  cor- 
respondent writes : 

"A  presentation  dinner  was  given  by 
the  Queen's  Own  Yeomanry  Cavalry  to 
their  major  on  the  occasion  of  his  leaving 
for  India.  I  got  hold  of  the  bill  of  fare — 
a  good,  healthy  volunteer  menu — which  I 
now  present: 

Hare  Soup.  Oyster  Soup. 

Clear   Oxtail. 


Turbot,  Lobster  Sauce. 

Dressed  Cod,    Oyster  Sauce. 

Filleted  Sole. 


Mutton   Cutlets,   Sauce  Piquante. 
Sweetbreads  with  Mushrooms. 

Curried  Rabbit. 
SuprCme  of  Chicken  aux  Truffes. 

Sirloin  of  Beef. 


Haunch  of- Venison. 


Braised  Turkeys,  Celery  Sauce. 

Roast  CLickens.  Yorkshire  Ham. 

Ox  Tongues. 

Victoria  Pudding.        Lemon  Pudding. 

Berlin  Tarts.       Swiss  Souffles. 

Stewed  Fruits.  Blancmange. 

Noyeau  Jellies. 

Dessert. 

Now,  all  of  these  try  to  follow  the 
French  custom  of  serving  the  entrees  first, 
only  because  it  is  the  French  way,  and 
those  who  split  the  difference  and  place 
boiled  on  top,  entrees  in  the  middle  and 
roasts  next,  get  the  roast  beef  and  such 
solid  joints  so  far  down,  because  the  French 
roasts  are  placed  there  in  French  bills, 
without  taking  notice  that  such  French 
bills  never  contain  any  plain  boiled  meats, 
nor  plain  roast  beef,  nor  mutton.  Their 
roasts  (rots)  are  some  choice  kinds  of  small 
game,  something  that  is  considered  better 
in  some  way  than  the  made  dishes  or  en- 
trees. The  French  idea  is  that  plain  roasted 
or  boiled  meats  are  not  good  enough  for  a 
fine  menu.  (Look  at  the  representative 
menu  of  the  dinner  given  in  Paris  by 
the  Stanley  Club,  a  little  way  back — no 
boils  or  roasts  are  there.)  Instead  of  crowd- 
ing the  English  favorite  boiled  leg  of 
Southdown  mutton  into  that  Parisian  bill 
just  under  the  turbot,  and  the  American 


favorite  rare  roast  beef  into  the  place  occu- 
pied by  pheasants  and  partridges  sur  crou- 
stades,  we  do  better  to  make  our  own  style 
of  bill  of  fare  according  to  the  preferences 
of  our  own  people,  who,  generally  speak- 
ing, regard  the  joints  as  the  principal  part 
of  a  dinner  and  all  the  rest  as  little  nic- 
nacks,  very  nice  in  their  place,  but  of  no 
great  consequence. 

Practically  it  does  not  make  much  dif- 
ference whether  the  entrees  or  the  boils 
and  roasts  are  placed  first  in  order,  for  ex- 
perience shows  that  people  choosing  from 
a  bill  of  fare  nearly  always  select  whatever 
meats  they  intend  to  partake  of  all  at  one 
time,  boiled  joints,  roasted  joints,  entrees 
or  game,  and  their  favorite  vegetables  with 
them,  without  regard  to  the  order  in  which 
they  are  ranged  in  the  printed  list;  still  it 
is  most  proper  to  place  the  substantial 
meats  before  the  entrees,  in  conformity 
to  the  principles  laid  down  by  the  French 
gastronomers  themselves. 

Here  is  the  ideal  menu  embodied  in  a 
recent  sketch  by  a.  feuilletonist  of  the  day, 
"Max  O'Rell."  He  depicts  a  little  party  of 
three  or  four  "gastronomically  educated'' 
individuals,  Paris  gourmets,  in  fact,  seri- 
ously engaged  in  the  absorbing  question 
what  to  order  for  dinner  at  the  fashionable 
restaurant,  where  they  are  seated,  and  the 
subjoined  shows  the  outcome  of  their  de- 
liberations: 

"Consomme'  aux  pois. 

Oysters  and  a  sole  Normande. 

Pheasant  a  la  Sainte-Alliance. 

Chateaubriand. 
Tenderest  of  asparagus  a  1'Amazone. 

Suprfemes  de  mauviettes. 

Ortolans  a  la  Provencale. 

Meringues  a  la  vanille. 

Ice,  cheece,  dessert." 

But  it  is  easy  to  see  that  "  Max  O'Rell " 
has  been  studying  Brillat  Savarin  and  the 
Physiology  du  Gout  for  his  purpose;  the 
dishes  are  Savarin's  favorites,  the  "pheas- 
ant a  la  Sainte-Alliance"  was  his  own  in- 
vention, the  menu  is  necessarily  good  and, 
which  is  most  to  the  point,  its  arrangement 
of  dishes  in  place  is  according  to  one  of  the 
axioms  laid  down  by  that  much  admired 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


53 


teacher  that  the  order  of  dishes  should  be 
from  the  plain  and  substantial  to  the  more 
light  and  delicate,  the  motive  being  to  pro- 
long the  pleasure  of  eating  by  leading  on 
from  dish  to  dish,  from  good  to  better  and 
best.  In  this  the  ideal  menu  of  this  literary 
man  is  precisely  the  same  as  the  best  spe- 
cimens of  the  American  hotel  bill  of  fare. 
After  the  soup  and  fish  comes  the  roast 
pheasant,  equivalent  to  our  every-day  roast 
chicken  or  turkey  stuffed;  the  Chateau- 
briand, which  comes  next,  is  the  fillet 
of  beef,  with  natural  beef  juice  for  its 
sauce;  it  is  to  all  intents  the  same  as 
our  roast  beef  and  the  nearest  thing  to 
plain  roast  beef  that  a  proper  Parisian 
menu  ever  shows.  More  delicate  and 
more  piquantly  seasoned  than  those 
are  the  larks  and  then  the  ortolans,  the 
fattest  of  small  birds,  and  called  the  choic- 
est morsel  that  is  known  to  epicures.  Ac- 
cording to  that  rule,  our  entrees,  seasoned, 
flavored  and  spiced,  decorated  to  tempt  the 
appetite  that  is  already  satisfied  with  plain 
food,  should  be  placed  after  the  substantial 
boiled  and  roasted  meats,  instead  of  before. 
And  yet  we  would  not  have  every  bill  look 
alike. 

THREE   ROYAL   EXAMPLES. 

Not  to  depend  upon  the  idealism  for 
high  sanction,  however,  the  following 
menu  of  an  actual  affair  shows  a  pretty 
good  pattern  of  the  American  style ;  that 
is  of  the  essential  part,  for  these  menus 
never  mention  the  vegetables  unless  they 
are  made  into  a  good  dish  such  as  we  call 
a  vegetable  entree  and  they  call  entremets, 
just  as  our  bills  never  mention  bread  un- 
less it  is  made  up  into  some  form  like  crou- 
stades,  sippets  or  toast: 

"Gala  dinner  served  at  Prince  Fursten- 
berg's  palace,  at  Kremsier,  to  the  Emperors 
of  Austria  and  Russia  and  seventy-six 
guests.  The  table  was  laid  with  the  costly 
service  of  gold  plate  from  the  Imperial 
Palace  of  Schtfnbrunn.  The  following 
menu  was  placed  before  the  illustrious 
diners: 


Tortue  Claire^ 

Bouchees  a  1'Empereur. 

Filets  de  Saumon  a  la  Cardinal. 

Piece  de  Boeuf  et  Selle  de  Veau. 

Supreme  de  Poularde  a  la  Financiere. 

Chaudfroid  de  Cailles. 

Sorbet. 

Selle  de  Chevreuil,  Salade  et  Groseilles  de  Bar. 

Fonds  d'Artichauts  a  la  Demidoff. 

Pouding  a  la  Creme  de  Vanille. 

Gelee  au  Muscat  Lunch 
Fromages.     Glaces  aux  Noisettes.     Dessert." 

There  is  a  clear  turtle  soup ;  a  hot  hors 
d'ceuvre\  fillets  of  salmon  with  a  sauce 
made  red  with  lobster  coral ;  a  piece  of  beef 
and  saddle  of  veal,  roasted  of  course;  a 
rich  fricassee  of  chicken,  white,  and  a  rich 
fricassee  of  quails,  brown,  for  the  entrees ; 
then  punch.  Next,  the  game,  saddle  of 
venison  with  currant  jelly  and  a  salad,  and 
artichoke  bottoms  for  the  vegetable  to  eat 
with  it.  Then  a  vanilla  cream  pudding, 
muscat  wine  jelly,  cheese,  ices,  nuts  and 
fruit.  The  piece  of  beef  and  saddle  of  veal 
above  the  entrees  is  the  feature  that  makes 
it  like  an  American  bill  of  fare  and  differ- 
ent from  French  bills,  and  it  has  a  familiar 
appearance  all  through. 

"The  following  is  the  bill  of  fare  of  a  nice 
little  dinner  given  by  the  Archduke  Joseph 
of  Austria  to  a  select  party  of  guests  at  his 
charming  country  seat  on  Marguerite 
Island,  on  the  Danube,  near  Buda-Pesth. 
Count  Zichy  presided,  the  Archduke  being 
prevented  from  appearing  at  the  table 
owing  to  his  being  in  court  mourning: 

MENU. 

Potage  a  la  Colbert 

Piece  d'esturgeon,  sauce  remoulade. 

Filet  de  boeuf  al'Ans^laise. 

Bouch6es  a  la  Reine. 

Perdreaux  r6tis. 

Salade   Francaise. 

Turas-Haluska. 

Glace   panachee. 

Cafe'.        Liqueur  Zichy.       Creme. 

Partaken  of  to  the  melodious  accompani- 
ment of  a  band  of  Tziganes  (Anglice, 
Hungarian  band),  and  washed  down  with 
various  bottles  of  Hungarian  wines, 
amongst  which  reigned  supreme  a  regi- 
ment of  Imperial  Tokay,  1834." 


54 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


There  is  a  soup  to  be  found  in  American 
bills  any  day;  piece  of  sturgeon  with  a  va- 
riation of  tartar  sauce,  or  mayonaise  with 
minced  pickles  in  it;  fillet  of  beef  in  En- 
glish style,  which  is  plain  roasted  with 
mushrooms;  only  one  entree,  which  is  a 
patty  that  might  do  equally  well  as  a  hors 
d'cEti-ure;  then  roast  partridge  and  a  French 
salad.  Turas-Haluska  is  a  Hungarian 
pudding;  then  comes  tri-colored  or  Neapol- 
itan ice  cream  and  dessert. 

"Menu  of  a  September  lunch  served  at 
Mar  Lodge  upon  the  occasion  of  the 
Prince  of  Wales'  visit  to  the  Earl  of  Fife : 

Consomm6  de  volaille. 

Turbot  creme  au  gratin. 

S&lmis  de  grousses  a  la  Mar  Lodge. 

Poulets  a  la  Viennoise. 

Filet  de  bceuf  Bordelaise. 

Quartier  d'agneau  r&ti,  sauce  menthe. 

Perdreaux  r6tis. 

Petits  pois  Franjais. 

Souffle   Bearnaise  chaud. 

Mousse  au  cafe." 

In  that  there  is  a  quarter  of  lamb,  roasted, 
with  mint  sauce,  and  a  fillet  of  beef.  The 
arrangement  of  dishes  is  slightly  different 
from  others,  due  to  the  preferences  of  the 
French  c kef  who  prepared  the  menu.  The 
last  dish  named  is  a  coffee-flavored  whipped 
cream,  a  froth. 

These  selections  are  more  than  mere  in- 
teresting reading;  they  may  serve  as  ex- 
amples for  occasions  which  are  continually 
arising  in  our  hotels  when  traveling  dig- 
nitaries and  celebrities  are  to  be  enter- 
tained, and  they  show 'that  it  is  not  the 
proper  thing  then  to  make  the  bill  of  fare 
twice  as  long  as  it  usually  is  made  for 
common  use.  But  to  return  to  the  ordi- 
nary hotel  bill : 

THE    PLACE    FOR    THE    COLD    MEATS. 

Those  who  wish  to  find  good  authority 
for  placing  the  small  side  dishes  of  cucum- 
bers, celery,  etc.,  after  the  fish  instead  of 
before,  with  the  idea  of  "something  to  take 
away  the  taste  of  fish,"  have  excellent  pat- 
terns to  follow  in  the  three  hotel  bills  of 
fare  here  following.  A  person  having  to 
decide  what  form  to  adopt  could  hardly  do 


better  than  take  either  the  first,  which  is 
from  the  Bates  House,  Indianapolis,  or  the 
third,  which  has  the  name  of  the  hotel  at- 
tached. The  latter  shows  another  way  of 
putting  in  those  little  dishes,  "small  onions" 
and  "olives"  appearing  in  smaller  type 
after  the  entrees,  while  "celery"  follows  the 
fish. 


OYSTERS. 

New  York  Counts 


Mulligatawny 


Consomm^ 


FISH. 

Striped  Bass,  Madeira  Wine  Sauce 

Boiled  California  Salmon,  French  Pea» 

Potato  Croquettes 


Spanish   Olives 


Sliced   Tomatoes 


Olives 


BOILED. 

Fowl,  Oyster  Sauce 
Leg  of  Lamb,  Caper  Sauce 

ROAST. 

Sirloin  of  Beef 

Young  Turkey  with  Dressing 
Cranberry  Sauce 

ENTREES. 
Tenderloin  of  Beef,  Larded,  Tomato  Sauce 

Sweet  Breads,  Braised,  Mushrooms 

Banana  Fritters,  Rum  Flavor 

GAME. 
Roast  Pheasant,  Bread  Sauce 

Mallard  Duck,  Plum  Jelly 

CHAMPAGNE  ICE. 
COLD. 

Celery  Salad         Mayonnaise  of  Chicken         Lamb 

Smoked  Beef  Tongue 
Roast  Beef  Crab  Salad 

VEGETABLES. 

Mashed  Potatoes        Boded  Potatoes 

Steamed  Rice 

Cauliflower  Stewed  Tomatoes  Red  Slaw 

Jersey  Sweet  Potatoes  Baked 

PASTRY,    ETC. 

Oriental  Pudding,  Steamed,  Brandy  Sauce 

Lemon  Meringue  Pie 

Mince  Pie        Charlotte  Russe 

Almond  Macaroons          Fancy  Assorted  Cake 

VANILLA   ICE  CREAM. 

Raisins          Mixed  Xuts  Figs 

Fruit  in  Season 

Edam  and  Xew  York  Cream  Cheese  Crackers 

Coffee. 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


55 


These  trifling  variations  show  how  bills 
may  differ  without  being  wrong  in  ar- 
rangement. The  middle  one  of  these  three 
bills  of  fare  is  from  the  Sherwood,  a  fash- 
ionable hotel  in  New  York;  it  shows  cu- 
cumbers after  the  fish,  not  because  that  is 
the  place  chosen  for  the  cold  hors  d  'ceuvres, 
as  some  of  them  appear  lower  down  under 
the  head  of  "mayonnaise,"  but  for  the  rea- 
son that  it  is  proper,  according  to  French 
ways,  to  serve  cucumbers  with  fish.  But 
suppose  one  has  an  antipathy  and  cannot  eat 
sliced  cucumbers  with  the  French,  is  it  not 
equally  proper  to  eat  sliced  tomatoes  with 
the  Americans?  And  if  both  cucumbers 
and  tomatoes  are  proper  why  not  celery, 
also,  and  olives?  The  inquiring  reader  is 
to  remember  that  these  momentous  ques- 
tions can  never  be  definitely  settled  —  never 
so  long  as  the  world  stands,  but  there  may 
come  a  moment  sometime  in  the  midst  of 
a  heated  debate  when  he  will  thank  us  for 
giving  him  this  argument  and  the  Sher- 
wood bill  of  fare,  which  illustrates  it. 


Tuesday,  March  i,  l8&j. 

Blue  Point  Oysters  on  Half  Shell 

SOUP. 

Chicken  with  okra  Consomme 

FISH. 

Boiled  Halibut,  anchovy  sauce 

Cncumbers  Potatoet 

BOILED. 

Corned  Beef  and  Cabbage 

REMOVES. 
Ribs  of  Beef  Chicken  Leg  of  Mutton 

Cold  Meats,  Etc. 
MAYONNAISE. 

Chicken  Fetticus  Lobster  Lettuce 

Tomato  Cold  Slaw 

ENTREES. 

Fillet  of  Beef,  sauce  Be'arnaise 
Calf's  Feet  a  la  Poulette 

VEGETABLES. 

Macaroni  a  la  Milanaise  Bermuda  Potatoes 

Rice        Tomatoes        Oyster  Plant,  fried 

Mashed  Turnips    Cream  Spinach 

DESSERT. 

Boiled  Apple  Dumpling,  brandy  sauce 
Peach  Pie         Charlotte  Russe         Assorted  Cakes 

Orange  Water  Ice      Vanilla  Ice  Cream 
FRUITS         NUTS         CHEESE         COFFEE 

An  extra  charge  will  be  made  for  dishes  ordered  not  on  the 
bill  of  fare. 

DINNER    FROM  6  TO    7.30. 


SoUP. 

Green  Sea  Turtle,  a  1'Anglaise       Consomme  Royal 
FISH. 

Baked  Florida  Trout,  aux  Fines  Herbes 
Celery  Potato  Croquette* 

BOILED. 

Corned  Beef  and  Cabbage 
Leg  of  Southdown  Mutton,  Caper  Sauce 

ROAST. 

Ribs  of  New  York  Beef,  with  Yorkshire  Pudding 

Sirloin  of  Beef,  with  Browned  Potatoes 

Young  Chicken,  Stuffed,  Giblet  Sauce 

Sugar  Cured  Ham,  Sherry  Sauce 

ENTREES. 
Tenderloin  of  Beef,  Saute,  with  Mushrooms 

Calf's  Head,  a  la  Toulouse 

Apple  Fritters,  Glace  au  Rum 

Olives  Small  Onion 

COLD  DISHES. 
Roast  Beef      Ham      Corned  Beef      Shrimp  Salad 

VEGETABLES. 

Boiled  Potatoes  Mashed  Potatoes 

Carolina  Rice  Stewed  Tomatoes 

Sweet  Potatoes  Extra  Sifted  Peas 

Vegetable  Oyster  Plant,  Cream  Sauce 

Asparagus. 

PASTRY  AND  DESSERT. 
Fruit  Cake,  Glace  au  Rum  Lady  Fingers 

Almond  Macaroons 
Meringues,  a  la  Parisienne  Peach  Pie 

Vanilla  Custard,  au  Meringue 

Steamed  Cabinet  Pudding,  Claret  Sauce 

Ice  Cream,  au  Muscat 

FRUITS. 


Edam  and  Cream  Cheese    Wafers     French  Coffee 

Japan  and  Gunpowder  Tea 
Sweet  Milk  Butter  Milk 

KIMBALL  HOUSE,  Jan.  9,  1887. 

But  the  real  object  of  introducing  these 
examples  is  to  show  the  best  place  to  locate 
the  cold  meats,  that  is  at  the  end  of  all  the 
other  meats ;  if  entrees  are  the  last  let  cold 
meats  follow  them,  if  game  appears  after 
the  entrees  let  cold  meat  come  after  the 
game.  The  Fifth  Avenue  and  the  Sher- 
wood have  them  higher  up,  and  they  do 
not  look  so  well  up  there  dividing  the  hot 
meats.  That  is  about  all  the  argument 
there  is  in  the  case,  for  this  division  is  the 
b&te  noir  of  the  tasty  bill  of  fare  writer. 
The  majority  of  hotel  caterers  try  very 
hard  indeed  to  twist  their  table  d'hote  bill 
into  the  shape  of  the  French  course  dinner 
bill,  with  its  sorbet  or  punch  in  the  middle 
and  its  game  after  the  punch  and  salad 
after  the  game ;  and  they  manage  that  far 
very  well,  but  when  the  cold  meats  di- 
vision has  to  come  in  they  are  at  a  loss ; 


56 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


the  Parisian  course  dinner  has  no  cold 
meats  division  so  they  have  no  guide.  But 
the  hotel  customers  don't  care  a  fig  about 
that,  and  want  cold  meats  just  the  same. 
As  caterers  to  the  tastes  of  hotel  patrons 
we  have  but  little  concern  with  their  mo- 
tives, but  we  know  from  experience  that 
no  matter  what  the  hot  meats  may  be  some 
few  out  of  a  number  always  call  for  the 
cold  cuts.  It  may  be  that  at  the  mid-day 
dinner  some  people  restrict  themselves  to. 
selecting  only  a  lunch,  taking  their  hot 
meal  at  supper  time,  or,  at  evening  dinner 
some  people  allow  themselves  only  a  light 
supper,  letting  all  the  rich  and  savory  hot 
dishes  severely  alone  at  that  time  of  day  or 
night.  The  "cold  meats"  division,  therefore, 
has  to  be  tolerated;  the  only  thing  to  be 
done  is  to  fill  it  with  but  few  items,  and 
one  or  more  should  be  of  the  rich  and  or- 
namental sort — aspics,  mayonaises,  boar's 
head,  galantines,  raised  pates.  The  inquir- 
ing reader  should  note  in  these  examples 
the  two  different  ways  of  placing  the  date: 
with  and  without  the  day  of  the  week;  at 
top  and  at  lower  left-hand  corner;  and  the 
subsidiary  lines,  and  also  that  all  three 
have  headings  to  the  different  divisions, 
and  at  the  same  time  make  no  mention  of 
"relishes."  Attention  is  also  directed  to 
the  example  of  two  New  York  hotel  bills 
— the  Sherwood  here  and  Victoria  in  a 
previous  article  of  this  series — in  serving 
macaroni  and  spaghetti  as  a  vegetable,  or 
with  the  vegetables ;  that  is  not  an  over- 
sight, misfit  or  mistake,  but  all  those  dishes 
are  properly  classed  as  entremets  by  those 
who  wish  to  have  things  that  way ;  so  are 
puddings. 

CURRENT    CRITICISMS. 

In  one  respect,  at  least,  the  writer  of 
these  lines  has  always  been  misunderstood 
by  some  readers.  He  has  never  denied 
that  the  French  are  the  leaders  of  the 
fashions  in  dining  as  well  as  in  other 
things,  but  has  denied  that  French  fashions 
are  applicable  to  American  hotel  dinners. 
He  has  never  denied  that  the  French  know 
more  about  cooking,  taking  them  as  a 


people,  than  any  other  people;  but  has 
always  contended,  and  contends  yet,  that 
to  adopt  strictly  French  cooking  in  an 
American  hotel  would  drive  most  of  the 
customers  away.  This  is  not  supposition, 
but  observation  and  experience.  The 
French  cooks  themselves  make  the  same 
observations  and  go  back  to  France  in  dis- 
gust, complaining  of  a  lack  of  appreciation, 
or  else,  if  they  stay  here,  they  change  their 
ways  somewhat  to  suit  our  people. 

But  yet,  if  some  amongst  our  hor-;l  pat- 
rons will  follow  French  fashions  and  dine 
upon  fashionable  dishes  in  fashionable  for- 
mality we,  as  hotel  caterers,  are  required 
to  understand  the  subject  with  all  the  whys 
and  wherefores,  and  for  that  reason  these 
different  samples  of  bills  of  fare  are  pre- 
sented, showing  different  forms;  only  pres- 
sing one  line  of  opinion,  viz:  that  while 
French  cooking  and  French  ways  are  the 
very  best  for  the  French,  we  need  a  little 
different  system,  because  we  are  a  different 
people  and  do  not  like  the  same  things  in 
the  same  ways  as  they  do.  The  real  point 
of  contention,  and  where  the  writer  may 
possibly  appear  to  be  eccentric,  if  not  or- 
iginal, is  in  this:  that  while  most  of  the 
fine  writers  and  would-be  gastronomical 
educators  say,  "  But  you  ought  to  do  thus 
and  so  because  the  French  do  so,"  the  argu- 
ment of  these  articles  has  always  been :  let 
the  French  go  their  ways ;  few  of  us  like 
their  oil,  their  garlic,  their  glaze,  their 
espagnole,  their  nutmeg  (in  meats  and 
potatoes),  their  herbs,  their  thin  soups, 
their  anchovies,  their  snails,  their  many 
things,  and  we  cannot  help  these  likes  and 
dislikes  in  food.  The  French  say  we  can 
not  have  good  cooking  unless  we  employ 
French  cooks  at  their  own  prices,  but  we 
will  say  we  will  educate  our  own  cooks 
and  see  what  French,  Italian,  German  and 
Spanish  cooks  know,  that  we  want;  and 
will  adopt  so  much  of  their  knowledge  as 
is  applicable  to  our  own  people,  and  leave 
the  rest.  The  above  is  partly  in  answer  to 
criticisms.  There  are  some  partisans  who 
are  disappointed  when  there  is  not  a  fight, 
and  they  look  for  a  running  down  and  de- 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


57 


preciation  of  every  French  form  only 
because  it  is  French,  and  because  they 
do  not  understand  it.  That  would  be 
extremely  ridiculous.  The  object  of 
these  writings  is  to  show  the  meaning 
and  the  merits  of  other  people's  fashions 
that  we  may  hold  fast  that  which  is  good 
and  agreeable,  and  leave  the  remainder  for 
them  that  like  them,  although  we  do  not 
like  them  ourselves.  If  it  were  necessary 
to  adopt  some  other  country's  fashion  for 
a  model  the  Italian  bill  of  fare  would  come 
nearer  to  our  predictions  than  the  French. 
It  is  from  the  Italians  we  get  Our  "sweet 
entrees;"  our  favorite  "fritter"  is  thefritto 
of  the  Italian  bill  of  fare,  an  indispensable 
course  in  every  Italian  dinner.  The  best 
known  names  among  the  noted  cooks  and 
caterers  of  New  York  are  Italians;  the 
fancy  cake  and  confectionary  business  of 
London  is  largely  in  the  hands  of  Italians 
— it  is  almost  given  up  to  them ;  and  it  does 
not  follow  that  because  they  are  excellent 
in  some  branches  of  the  art  we  should 
make  our  bill  of  fare  all  of  the  Italian  pat- 
tern, nor  made  up  all  of  Italian  dishes  any 
more  than  French,  although  a  steward, 
having  to  provide  for  the  entertainment  of 
a  distinguished  party  of  Italians,  may  be 
very  glad  to  have  the  following  example 
for  a  guide. 

The  following  is  the  bill  of  fare  of  a 
dinner  of  a  national  character,  prepared  for 
Italians  by  an  Italian,  and  it  helps  to  ex- 
plain why  some  of  our  American  hotel 
bills  of  fare  are  formed  as  they  are; 
it  is  the  mixture  of  Italian  with  French 
•ways.  The  employment  of  fine  Italian 
cooks  in  many  hotels  causes  the  bills  of 
fare  of  such  hotels  to  be  really  Italian  in 
form,  and  therefore  seem  to  be  wrong 
when  compared  with  French  patterns,  and 
hence  some  of  the  apparent  confusion,  and 
hence  another  argument  in  favor  of  adopt- 
ing a  distinctly  American  bill  of  fare: 

A    REPRESENTATIVE    ITALIAN   BILL   OF 
FARE. 

Banquet  to  Signer  Salvini,  given  by  the 
Italian  Colony  in  London,  at  the  Panton 


Hotel  (proprietor,  Mr.  R.  Pratti).  Covers 
laid  for  fifty.  Dining  room  profusely  de- 
corated with  flowers  and  with  Italian  and 
English  flags. 

MENU: 

Ostriche  Native. 

ANTIPASTO. 

Caviale,     Sardine,     Salame,    Tonno,    Selleri,    etc. 

ZUPPA. 
Ravioli  al  Brodo.         Risotto  con  TartuflL 

FRIT  TO. 
Frittura  Mista. 

PESCE. 

Salmone  Bellito,  Salsa  alia  Genovese 
e  Salsa  Hollandese. 

ENTREES. 

Polio  Saute  alia  Salvini.         " 
Animelle  di  Vitello  alia  Minuta  con  Tartuffi. 

PUNCH  ALLA  ROMANA. 

Asparag-i  alia  Milanese. 
Aspic  d'Aragosta  alia  Garibaldi. 

ROSTO. 

Agnello  allo  Spiedo. 

Insalata  assortitia. 

SELVAG1UME. 

Quay-lie  rostite. 

DOLCE. 

Zabbaglione. 

Ananas  all'  Orientale. 

Croccante  di  Amandole. 

Gelati  alia  Napolitana. 

Gateau  alia  Vanille. 
Petits  bouffles  all'  Indiana. 

DESSERT   ASSORTITO. 

Caffe  e  Liquori. 

V1NI. 

Sauterne. 
Chianti.  Barolo. 

The  first  dish  above  named  is  not  ostrich, 
but  oysters — English  "natives,"  raw,  of 
course,  and  it  is  very  rarely  that  a  French 
menu  is  formed  that  way,  for  the  cold  hors 
d'ceuvres  here  follow  the  oysters  under  an- 
other heading;  the  Italians  call  them  anti- 
pasto,  and  regard  them  as  much  a  neces- 
sary part  of  a  good  dinner  as  the  soup  or 
fish.  After  them  the  soup,  and  after  the 
soup  the  hot  hors  d'ceuvre,  which  Italians 
call  \hefritto.  After  that  the  fish  with 
two  sauces  but  no  potatoes,  the  fancy  form 
of  potatoes  with  fish  seeming,  therefore, 


58 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


not  to  be  an  Italian  fashion.  After  the 
fish  comes  the  entrees,  just  as  seen  in  so 
many  New  York  bills,  and  after  them  the 
punch,  which  is  according  to  French  fash- 
ion as  well.  The  cold  dishes  following  the 
punch  js  just  like  some  New  York  bills  of 
fare  and  still  more  are  the  two  next  di- 
visions where  there  are  roast  lamb  and 
assorted  salads  in  the  same  place  as  the 
French  roti  and  salade  would  be,  but  is  dif- 
ferent in  having  still  another  "game"  di- 
vision for  the  roast  quail.  All  the  rest  are 
sweets  and  wines. 

THE  DINNER   IN   COURSES. 

Perhaps  a  better  illustration  of  the  form 
of  making  up  an  American-French  course 
dinner  could  not  be  found  than  the  annexed 
novelty,  which  turns  up  at  the  right  time 
to  verify  the  foregoing  statements.  The 
principal  difference  betwixt  this  and  the 
table  d^hote  form  is  that  nobody  can  choose 
which  dish  they  will  take  and  which  they 
will  pass  by  in  the  course  dinner,  but  each 
one  is  served  the  same,  while  at  table  d: 'fiote 
each  individual  may  choose  one  thing  or 
twenty,  at  discretion.  This  was  an  annual 
dinner  of  an  association  of  traveling  men 
held  at  the  Metropolitan  Hotel,  New  York. 
The  menu  is  written  in  imitation  of  a 
railroad  ticket,  with  coupon  attachments, 
and  must  be  read  from  bottom  to  top,  the 
first  coupon  to  be  torn  off  being  the  first 
course,  of  which  there  are  ten  in  all — from 
Drawing  Room  to  Oysters ;  from  Oysters 
to  Soup;  from  Soup  to  Hors  d'oeuvre; 
Hors  d'ceuvre  to  Fish  (with  potatoes  and 
cucumbers);  from  Fish  to  Releve;  from 
Releve  to  Entrees;  from  Entrees  to  Punch; 
from  Punch  to  Roast  and  Salads;  from 
Roast  to  Pastry  and  Creams;  from  Pastry 
to  Fruit,  Cheese,  Coffee  and  Liqueurs.  It 
will  be  noted  that  the  wines  appear  with 
the  dishes.  "Old  Reserve"  is  sherry  with 
the  soup.  The  aptness  of  the  quotation 
under  the  hot  hors  d'aeuvre  consists  in  the 
word  mouthful,  bouchee  means  mouthful. 
This  is  termed  an  American- French  menu 
because  it  has  Blue  Points,  Diamond-back 
Terrapin,  Kennebec  Salmon,  Red-head 


Duck   ("dear,"   too)    and   a  good   deal   ol 
French  language.   But  it  is  a  good  pattern: 


CAFE  AND  COGNAC  TO  A  FLOW  OF  SOUL. 

"Serenely  foil  the  epicure  would  say — 
Fate  cannot  harm  me,  I  have  dined  to-day." 

—Sidney  Smith. 
"And  all  the  people  said — 'Amr.'  " 


ENTREMETS  TO  FRUITS. 

Fromage,  Cafe,  Cognac  and  Liqueurs 

'Spirits,  which  by  mine  art  I  have  from  their  confines  call'd 

to  enact 
Hy  present  fancies." 

— "Tempest,"  Act  IV,  Scene  L 


ROTI  TO  ENTREMETS. 

Pudding-  a  la  Reine  au  Cognac 

Jelly  au  Champagne 
Bombes  a  la  Windsor  Petits  Fours. 

"I  will  make  an  en  J  of  my  dinner,  there's  pippins  and  cheeM 
to  come." 

—"Merry  Wives  of  Windsor,"  Act  I,  Scene  U. 


PUNCH  TO  ROTI. 

Red-Head  Duck  Lettuce 

Chambertin 

"O,  dainty  dock!    O,  dear!" 
—"Midsummer  Night's  Dream,"  Act  T,  Seen*  1 


ENTREES  TO  SORBET. 

Punch  au  Kirsch 

"Is  it  a  party  in  the  parlor! 
Crammed  just  as  they  on  earth  were  crammed. 
Some  sipping  punch." 
— Wordsworth's  "Peter  Bell"  (Suppressed  passage). 


RELEVE  TO   ENTREES. 

Supreme  of  Chicken,  a  1'Imperial 

Petit  Pois  Francaises 

Diamond -Back  Terrapin  a  la  Maryland 

Champagne 

•This  lapwing  runs  away  with  the  shell  on  her  head." 

—"Hamlet,"  Act  V,  Scene  U. 


POISSON  TO  RELEVE. 

Filet  de  Bceuf  pique  aux  Truffes 
Haricots  Verts        La  Rose 

"If  you  give  me  any  conserves,  give  me  conserve  of  beef." 

— "Taming  of  The  Shrew"  (Introduction). 


HORS  D'CEUVRE  TO  POISSON. 

Kennebec  Salmon  a  la  Hollandaise 

Concombres  Pommes,  Parist«one 

Haut  Sauterne 

"She,  that  in  wisdom  never  were  M  frail, 

To  change  the  cod's  head  for  the  salmon's  tail." 

—"Othello,"  Act  U,  Seen*  li. 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


POT  AGE  TO  HORS  D'CBUVRE. 

Petites  Bouche'es  a  la  Montglas. 

"  •  •  pl»ys  and  tumbles,  driving  the  poor  fry  before  him, 
and  at  last  devours  them  all  at  a  mouthful.  ' 

—"Pericles,"  Act  II,  Scene  i. 


HUITRES  TO   POTAGE. 

Cream  of  Celery  aux  Croutons 

Consomme,  Colbert  Royal 

Old  Reserve 

"Mingles  with  the  friendlr  bowl, 

The  feast  of  reason  and  the  now  of  soul." 

— Pope's  "Imitation  of  Horace.' 


SALON    TO    HUITRES. 

Blue  Points 

"The  banquet  waits  our  presence,  festal  Joy 
Laughs  in  the  mantling  goblet,  and  the  night 
Illumin'd  by  the  taper's  dazzling  beam, 
Rivals  departed  day." 

— Brown's  "Barbarossa.1 


Another  good  example  of  the  course 
dinner,  right  side  up,  is  that  Parisian  menu, 
printed  in  a  former  article,  of  the  Stanley 
Club;  incomplete,  however,  in  not  naming 
vegetables. 

Complimentary  banquet  tendered  to  the 
New  England  Grocers  at  the  Grand  Cen- 
tral Hotel,  New  York,  Tuesday  afternoon, 
Nov.  ist,  at  2  o'clock: 

Blue  Point  Oysters  on  the  half  shell 

SOUP 
Green  Turtle 

FISH 

Filet  de  Sole  au  gratin  i  1'Italienne 
Potatoes  Brabant 

RELEVE 

Filet  of  Beef  pique  a  la  Bordelaise 
Potatoes  Parisiennes  Cream  Spinach 

ENTREE 

Chicken  Croquettes  £  la  Toulouse 
String-  Beans 

ROAST 

Stuffed  Turkey,  Cranberry  Sauct 
Baked  Sweet  Potatoes 

PUNCH 
Punch  a.  la  Romaine 

GAME 

Roast  Partridge 
Celery  Mayonnaise 

PASTRY 
English   Plum   Puddirg,  Hard  and  Brandy  Sauce 

Vanilla  Ice  Cream 

Mixed  Cakes  Apple  Pie 

Pumpkin  Pie 

DESSERT 

Nuts  and  Raisins        Ice  Cream 

Roquefort  Cheese  Bent's  Biscuits 

Fruit        Coffee 


For  a  good  practical  exa/ 
in  courses  the  preceding  may  be  . 
is  open  to  criticism  on  some  points,  suci. 
using  the  French  spelling  of  filet  instead 
of  English  fillet,  and  in  another  respect, 
perhaps  not  worth  naming,  but  it  happily 
adapts  American   favorite  dishes,  such  as 
roast  turkey  and  sweet  potatoes,  to  the  uses 
of  an  unfamiliar  form  of  service.     It  is  to 
be  observed  that  in  a  course  dinner  each 
dish  of  meat  and  game,  as  well  as  fish,  has 
its  own  vegetable  accompaniment,  and  the 
vegetables  are  not  to  be  bunched  together 
as  they  are  in  the  table  d'hote  bill  of  fare. 

THE    SORBET    OR    PUNCH. 

There  is  a  growing  desire  among  pro- 
prietors and  stewards,  who  endeavor  to  set 
the  best  tables,  to  adopt  the  punch,  which 
appears  in  the  middle  of  the  French  course 
dinner  bill,  between  entree  and  game.  The 
example  may  be  noted  in  several  of  the 
bills  of  fare  shown  in  preceding  articles, 
and  the  usually  selected  place  for  it  is  there 
seen,  likewise.  It  is  no  longer  always  Ro- 
man punch,  nor  frozen  punch,  but  after  all 
these  have  had  a  run  some  stewards  have 
taken  to  serving  champagne  cup,  claret 
cup,  Balaklava  cup,  and  all  the  punches 
with  fine  names  which  can  be  found  in  the 
"barkeepers'  guides."  Some  of  these  are 
poured  from  pitchers  or  decanters  into  the 
guest's  glass  that  is  already  set  upon  the 
table.  The  various  frozen  punches — which 
are  never  quite  solidly  frozen — should  be 
served  in  deep  punch  glasses,  cup  shaped, 
with  handles. 

There  is  a  strong  argument  against  the 
serving  of  punch  gratis,  however,  in  that 
it  tends  to  lessen  the  sale  of  wine  and 
bottled  ale  and  beer,  which  some  hotel 
keepers  find  a  source  of  profit  equal  at  least 
to  the  cigar  stand,  which  in  many  houses 
is  sufficient  to  pay  the  rent.  It  is  argued 
that  to  give  the  diner  a  glass  of  rum  punch 
with  his  dinner  takes  away  his  desire  to 
order  anything  from  the  bar,  and  where 
the  addition  of  wine  to  the  dinner  is  offered 
as  an  advertisement,  to  introduce  a  sorbet 
or  punch  would  be  injudicious. 


GO 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


•'THOSE    EVERLASTING    RELISHES." 

This  is  a  minority  report.  There  is  al- 
most always  a  minority  that  disagrees; 
somtimes  the  minority  is  called  a  respect- 
able one,  and  it  is  allowed  to  present  a  re- 
port even  after  the  question  has  been  de- 
cided against  it.  It  is  decidedly  in  bad 
taste  to  include  "Relishes,"  with  big  black 
letters,  as  a  heading  in  a  bill  of  fare,  and 
being  in  bad  taste  it  is  wrong,  and  is  so 
acknowledged  by  nearly  all,  for  the  finest 
Sunday  bills  and  Christmas  and  New 
Years  bills,  which  are  sent  out  for  show, 
seldom  include  any  "relishes";  yet  a  mi- 
nority of  those  who  send  them  out  put 
"relishes"  on  their  bills  the  very  next  day, 
and  every  day,  for  the  home  folks  and  for 
that  class  of  travelers  that  wants  a  large 
and  plentiful-looking  bill  for  so  much  a 
meal.  A  part  of  this  minority  runs  "re- 
lishes" in  order  to  encourage  manufactur- 
ers of  table  .delicacies,  inventors  of  new 
table  sauces,  importers  of  foreign  novelties, 
purveyors  of  pure  oils,  the  makers  of  all 
that  glittering  array  of  finely  bottled  and 
artistically  labeled  goods  which  makes  the 
shelves  cf  the  dealers  in  fancy  groceries 
the  handsomest  display  in  the  city;  and,  as 
there  is  no  limit  to  the  enterprise  of  some 
hotel  keepers  and  stewards,  who  make  the 
excellence  of  their  table  the  pride  of  their 
life,  they  constantly  look  over  the  columns 
of  their  hotel  papers  to  see  what  new  oils, 
catsups,  soys,  chutneys,  salad  dressings, 
fish  sauces,  flavored  vinegars,  or  whatever 
else  have  lately  come  into  use  and  fashion, 
and  to  find  the  places  to  buy  them.  Others 
still,  belonging  to  the  minority,  grow  very 
tired  of  catering  to  people  who  are  not,  in 
the  mass,  gastronomically  educated,  and 
they  try  to  educate  their  customers  to  a 
point  beyond  Worcestershire  sauce  by 
placing  on  their  tables  such  things  as  mush- 
room and  walnut  catsups,  Uengal  and 
Madras  chutneys,  chili-colorado,  Tabasco 
sauce,  anchovy  essence,  Harvey's  sauce, 
India  soy,  tarragon  vinegar,  and  com- 
pounds of  that  class  to  the  number  of  about 
fifty,  in  turn,  and  when  they  find  the  bottles 


remain  untouched,  or  scarcely  a  bottle 
used  up  in  a  year,  because  these  are  such 
mysterious  things,  they  put  the  names  of 
such  "relishes"  on  their  bill  of  fare,  know- 
ing that  as  everybody  has  read  about 
everything  in  this  land  of  newspapers,  their 
boarders  and  visitors  will  thus  be  led  to 
appreciate  the  provision  made  for  their 
more  luxurious  dining. 

The  fight  against  "relishes"  in  the  bill  of 
fare  has  never  been  made  against  the  re- 
finement of  the  table,  however,  but  was, 
and  is  still,  directed  against  the  silly  "pad- 
ding out"  of  the  bill  to  make  it  look  big 
and  plentiful,  though  there  is  nothing  in  it; 
against  such  parades  as  used  to  be  met 
with  often,  as :  "  Plain  Pickles,  Mixed 
Pickles,  Stuffed  Pickles,  Spiced  Pickles, 
Cucumber  Pickles,  Sharp  &  Soursauce's 
Celebrated  Piccalilli,"  —  which  would  all 
be  strung  out  in  one  bill,  followed  by 
"Plain  Mustard,  French  Mustard,"  and  a 
lot  more  such  stuff,  and  this  brought  the 
whole  department  of  relishes  into  disrepute. 
In  this  connection  it  must  be  noted  again, 
and  still  on  the  side  of  the  minority,  that 
recent  innovations  in  setting  the  table  have 
done  away  with  the  chance  of  the  guests 
seeing  what  they  want  when  the  bill  of  fare 
does  not  mention  it.  The  best  of  the  first- 
class  hotels  now  have  no  cruet-stands  on 
the  tables,  but,  instead,  a  small  regiment 
of  tiny  ornamental  vases,  decanters,  jugs, 
pitchers,  amphorce,  ampullce,  of  china — such 
things  as  are  found  on  the  ornamental 
shelves  and  in  the  show-windows  of  the 
dealers  in  hotel  china;  these  hold  the  va- 
rious accessories  of  condiments  and  relishes, 
and  yet  give  no  outward  token  of  their 
contents;  the  guest  cannot  be  fure  that 
even  his  familiar  Worcestershire  sauce  and 
tomato  catsup  are  there  until  he  gets 
acquainted;  he  must  either  learn  them 
from  daily  use,  or  ask  the  waiter,  or  come 
and  go  in  ignorance  of  the  fact  that  the 
thing  wished  for  was  so  near,  or  else  the 
bill  of  fare  must  tell  him.  There  is  no 
need  of  a  heading  for  "Relishes"  to  tell 
this ;  one  line  across  the  bill  might  be  In- 
troduced to  tell  all  that  is  worth  telling. 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


61 


The  line  might  be  in  smaller  type  than  the 
main  body  of  the  bill,  as  has  been  shown 
in  several  bills  printed  on  preceding  pages. 

SPECIMEN    IRISH    BILL    OF    FARE. 

Thi*  specimen  banquet  bill  from  Ireland 
is  very  much  like  an  American  bill,  and 
remarkable  for  being  in  plain  English. 
There  are  too  many  kinds  of  meat  for  any 
use,  as  if  they  had  learned  that  bad  habit 
from  our  hotels,  and  it  does  not  regard  the 
vegetables  worth  naming;  but  the  vege- 
tables over  there  are  said  to  be  poor  and 
scanty — not  like  ours: 

Banquet  given  by  the  Mayor  of  London- 
derry (Sir  R.  McVicker,  J,  P.)  to  the  Hon- 
ourable the  Irish  Society.  The  dinner  was 
provided  by  Mr.  James  Johnston,  a  well- 
known  local  caterer,  and  served  in  Corpo- 
ration Hall: 

SOUPS. 

Clear  Turtle,  a  la  Reine. 
Green  Pea 

FISH. 

Turbot — Lobster  Sauce 

Salmon — Parsley  and  Butter. 

Fillets  of  Soles,  a  la  Maitre  d'Hotel. 

ENTREES. 

Lobster  Cutlets.       Lamb  Cutlets  and  Peas. 
Sweetbreads — Mushroom  Sauce. 
Veal   Cutlets  —  Cucumber  Sauce. 

REMOVES. 

Roast  Chicken  Roast  Turkey  Poults. 

Roast  Beef .  Roast  Haunches  Mutton.  Roast  Lamb. 

Boiled  Chicken.  Green  Goose. 

Hams.  Tongues. 

Grouse— Lobster  Salad. 

ENTREMETS. 

Marmalade  Pudding.          Fig  Puddings. 

Sultana  Pudding.          Jellies.  Victoria  Cream. 

Apple  and  Greengage  Tarts. 

DESSERT. 

Pineapples,  Grapes,  Greengages,  Melons,  Apples, 
Pears,  Plums,  etc. 

ICES. 
Lemon  Water  and  Strawberry  Cream. 


SPECIMEN     ENGLISH     COMMERCIAL    HOTEL 
BILL. 

Somebody  in  an  English  city  has  opened 
a  hotel  specially  for  the  commercial  trav- 
elers' trade  (doesn't  say  whether  "sample 
rooms  on  the  first  floor,"  or  "the  best  in 


town"),  and  this  is  one  of  the  bills  of  fare 
of  the  dinner  served  at  fifty  cents: 

SOUPS. 

Mock  Turtle,  Julienne,  Vermicelli. 

FISH. 
Salmon,  Halibnt,  Stewed  Eels. 

JOINTS. 

Roast  Beef  with  Yorkshire  Pudding, 

Boiled    Leg  Lamb,   Ducklings,   Spring  Chickens, 

Pigeon  Pies. 

ENTREES. 

Curried  Rabbit,  Fricasses  of  Chicken, 
Lamb  Cutlets,  Beef  a  la  mode. 

LEGUMES. 
Potatoes,  Peas,  Spinach,  Beans,  Vegetable  Marrow. 

ENTREMETS. 

Iced  Venice  Pudding, 

Raspberry  and  Red  Currant  Tart, 

Pineapple  Fritters,  Black  Currant  Pudding. 

CHEESE. 

•Gruyere,  Wensleydale,  Cheddar. 
SALAD. 

Cheese  and  salad  are  expected  to  create 
a  demand  for  ale  and  beer  or  hot  cups  of 
some  kind. 

HOW    MANY   DISHES? 

A  glance  over  a  number  of  hotel  bills  of 
fare  of  the  same  date  will  show  that  a  great 
difference  of  opinion  exists  on  this  point, 
even  to  go  no  farther  than  New  York,  for 
the  makers  of  the  bill  of  one  large  and 
wealthy  establishment  think  it  worth  while 
to  enumerate  every  kind  of  nuts  and  such 
small  items,  as  well  as  all  the  sorts  of  cold 
meats  besides  a  long  list  of  entrees,  while 
another  presents  only  about  one-third  as 
many,  and  there  is  no  reason  to  suppose 
that  ideas  of  frugality  form  the  leading  mo- 
tive for  the  smaller  display.  But  there  is 
no  doubt  that  it  requires  "more  nerve"  in 
a  man  to  set  out  a  small  bill  of  fare  while 
expecting  to  compete  with  another  house 
displaying  a  very  voluminous  one,  on  ac- 
count the  constitution  of  the  general  pub- 
lic, which  is  apt  to  look  for  quantity  first, 
and  the  obtaining  of  a  large  amount  for  its 
money.  The  advocates  for  a  fewer  num- 
ber of  dishes  properly  claim  that  it  is  in 
better  taste  and  that  a  small  number  of 
viands  can  be  better  cooked  and  served 
than  the  interminable  list  of  things  pro- 


62 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


mised  by  some  bills,  and  that  a  freshness 
in  the  daily  change  of  dishes  is  attainable 
•with  a  small  list  that  is  not  possible  when 
everything  appears  in  the  bill  at  once,  day 
after  day.  It  used  to  be  urged  in  favor  of 
the  long  lists  of  the  great  hotels,  especially 
of  the  seaport  cities,  that  they  offered  in 
their  great  variety  something  to  suit  the 
national  taste  of  every  foreign  visitor ;  that 
the  cooking  was  of  a  cosmopolitan  char- 
acter and  each  guest  could  select  from  the 
abundance  offered  to  suit  himself,  not  be- 
ing restricted  to  the  limited  offerings  of 
fare  provided  for  the  provincial  customer 
But  of  late  years  it  has  become  a  feature 
of  the  business  for  every  large  hotel  to 
have  a  restaurant  attached,  some  have  two, 
called  respectively  restaurant  and  cafe,  so 
that  whoever  is  not  fully  satisfied  with  the 
hotel  table  can  indulge  his  particular  habits 
and  fancies  at  one  of  these.  The  sound 
policy  in  regard  to  this  question,  as  in 
many  others,  lies  in  the  adoption  of  the 
golden  mean,  though  some  hotel  men  like 
to  run  to  extremes.  One  says:  "If  I  must 
provide  forty  pounds  of  meat  I  may  as 
well  have  ten  different  kinds  of  four  pounds 
each  as  to  have  but  two  of  twenty  pounds 
each,  and  in  the  same  way  he  says  it  is  as 
easy  to  have  a  little  of  ten  different  vege- 
tables as  to  have  much  of  only  two  kinds, 
and  the  six  pies  may  as  well  be  of  six  dif- 
ferent sorts  as  to  be  all  of  one;  then  every- 
body can  have  what  they  like  best  and  it 
makes  no  difference  to  me."  But  that  old 
argument  is  fallacious.  There  is  just 
enough  truth  in  it  to  warrant  a  reasonable 
variety  in  the  dinner,  but,  in  fact,  the  ex- 
pensiveness  of  a  meal  increases  according 
to  the  increase  of  the  number  of  different 
items ;  there  is  a  certain  inevitable  waste  in 
every  separate  operation  in  cooking;  a 
portion  of  everything  will  be  left  over  and 
lost,  instead  of  a  portion  of  only  one  or 
two  things,  and  the  more  things  are  offered 
the  more  some  of  the  guests  will  order,  if 
only  to  "sample"  and  waste  them. 

It  is  in  favor  of  a  reasonable  variety  in 
the  viands  to  remember  that  some  kinds 
must  cost  less  than  others,  and  every  order 


made  on  the  cheaper  dish  lessens  the  run 
upon  the  dearer  one,  and,  again,  it  often 
happens  that  the  cooking  capacity  of  a 
place  is  not  sufficient  to  provide  enough  of 
the  one  or  two  articles  and  half  a  dozen 
more  of  other  sorts  must  come  in  to  divide 
the  calls;  the  same  reasons  obtain  when 
the  favorite  article  cannot  be  procured  in 
sufficient  quantity  to  stand  all  the  pressure 
alone,  then  it  has  to  be  offset  with  some- 
thing else  almost  equally  in  demand. 
These  considerations,  and  others  like  them, 
have  far  more  weight  with  those  practically 
engaged  in  the  preparation  of  the  meals 
than  any  ideas  of  whether  a  greater  or  less 
display  is  in  the  better  taste. 

ONE    SOUP   OR    TWO? 

The  soup  question  is  one,  again,  of  "gas- 
tronomical  education."  The  general  pub- 
lic, as  we  know  it  by  hotel  contact,  de- 
mands thick  soup,  and  all  thin  soups,  clear 
soups,  consommes,  are  repelled  as  insults 
to  a  good  appetite,  as  signs  of  stinginess, 
as  "dishwater."  But  writers  like  Sir  Henry 
Thompson,  author  of  "Food  and  Feeding," 
are  opposed  to  thick  soups,  especially  to 
cream  soups,  at  least  as  preliminary  to  a 
dinner,  because  they  take  the  appetite  away. 
And  yet  thick  soups  are  very  good  indeed, 
and  among  the  best  things  which  the  best 
cooks  can  produce,  and  the  cream  soups 
are  the  prime  favorites ;  it  is  not  the  soup, 
but  the  proper  use  of  it  which  should  be 
considered.  An  impecunious  or  frugal- 
minded  man  with  fifteen  cents  in  his 
pocket  may  step  into  a  Chicago  restaurant 
in  the  proper  season  and  obtain  for  that 
sum  a  bowl  of  genuine  turtle  soup,  of  more 
than  a  pint,  thick  with  meat,  and  a  plate  of 
bread  accompanying  it,  and  of  that  he 
makes  a  meal,  a  good  wholesome  meal, 
and  walks  out  unburdened  by  over-feeding 
and  in  good  trim  for  business  or  labor. 
But  if,  after  the  soup,  even  though  in  small 
quantity,  he  should  seriously  set  himself  to 
consume  his  share  of  a  complete  hotel  din- 
ner he  would  do  himself  an  injury,  and  if 
the  dinner  were  his  primary  object  he  should 
take  only  a  thin  soup,  the  thinner  the  better. 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


63 


The  human  stomach  will  hold  but  a 
quart  of  semi-solid  food,  but  liquids  are  ab- 
sorbed and  out  of  the  way  immediately. 
Doctor  Andrew  Coombe,  himself  a  victim 
of  hereditary  dyspepsia,  some  forty  years 
ago  went  to  a  French  watering-place  to 
study  the  subject  of  the  "Stomach  and  its 
Difficulties,"  and  seeing  how  some  patients 
would  drink  as  much  as  ten  pints  of  spring 
water  before  breakfast  and  then  without 
any  diminution  of  appetite  would  straight- 
way go  and  eat  a  full  meal,  understood 
that  the  water  was  immediately  absorbed 
through  the  coats  of  the  stomach  and  did 
not  interfere  with  its  capacity  to  hold  solid 
food.  People  who  are  gastronomically 
educated  act  upon  such  knowledge,  and 
take  only  a  small  quantity  of  clear  soup  or 
consomme,  which  is  sufficiently  thin  to  be 
soon  absorbed,  as  a  preparation  of  the 
stomach  for  a  full  meal  to  follow,  or  else, 
if  they  take  a  thick  soup,  they  make  a  meal 
of  that,  at  least  in  part.  The  hotel  table, 
well  provided,  offers  two  soups,  a  thick 
and  a  thin  one,  and  the  diners  choose  as 
they  please.  The  mistaken  notion  should 
not  be  entertained,  however,  that  the  thin 
soup  is  cheap;  as  it  is  made  by  the  best 
cooks  it  is  quite  expensive,  partly  because 
it  is  a  strong  essence  of  meat,  a  sort  of 
beef  tea  with  all  solid  particles  removed 
from  it,  and  partly  because  of  the  large 
amount  of  white  eggs  wasted  in  clarifying 
it  to  that  very  transparent  and  brandy-like 
thinness  which  so  many  of  our  patrons 
condemn  it  for.  And,  again,  when  there 
is  no  particular  need  of  adding  to  the  num- 
ber of  dishes  merely  for  style,  one  soup  is 
sufficient,  and  that  should  be  a  thick  one, 
as  the  hotel  table  will  gain  the  more  credit 
for  it.  But  hotel  providers  often  run  to 
extremes  in  this  line,  also,  and  serve  abom- 
inable mixtures  as  thick  as  porridge, 
messes  that  can  be  taken  up  on  a  knife 
point.  That  is  not  what  is  meant  by 
thick  soups  so  much  as  is  having  soups 
with  something  in  them ;  neatly  cut  pieces 
of  meat  or  vegetables,  of  clams  and  po- 
tatoes, of  fried  crusts  or  sippets;  not  pjr- 
ridgp,  but  soups  with  morsels  to  be  found 


with  the  spoon  and  enjoyed  because  the 
appetite  is  then  fresh  and  keen.  That  is 
the  motive  as  well  with  clear  soups,  the 
consomme  with  green  peas  or  asparagus 
tips.  If  the  soup  is  worth  serving  at  all, 
there  should  be  at  least  a  third  of  a  plate- 
ful, if  not  half;  let  the  people  leave  a  little 
if  they  will,  but  the  mere  spoonful  that  just 
covers  the  plate,  as  served  in  some  places, 
affords  no  satisfaction  to  anybody,  not  even 
to  the  cook,  who  knows  that  there  is  not 
enough  in  such  a  portion  to  allow  his 
efforts  at  a  skillfull  combination  to  be 
appreciated.  But,  of  course,  if  your  soup 
is  bad  the  less  you  serve  the  better. 

HOW   MANY   KINDS    OF    FISH? 

Probably,  in  pursuance  of  a  desire  to 
please  everybody,  it  would  be  best  to  have 
two  kinds  of  fish,  as  a  baked  and  a  boiled ; 
a  fish  in  fillets  with  tomato  or  Spanish 
sauce,  and  another  whole  with  only  the 
simple  melted  butter.  Ordinarily,  it  must 
be  allowed,  one  kind  is  enough,  while  yet 
there  are  fishing  resorts  and  other  places 
peculiarly  situated  where  several  dishes  of 
fish  have  to  be  offered  daily.  When  serv- 
ing fish  as  only  a  part  of  the  hotel  regular 
dinner  two-ounce  portions  are  enough  un- 
less some  person  wishes  to  pass  the  middle 
or  latter  courses  of  the  dinner  by  and  re- 
quests a  full  order. 

HOW    MANY    ENTREES? 

While,  very  often,  it  is  a  difficult  matter 
to  find  materials  to  make  a  given  number 
of  entrees  or  made  dishes  every  day,  and 
cooks  are  glad  to  run  in  very  common  and 
useless  dishes  merely  to  fill  up  the  list,  still 
at  other  times  a  number  of  small  meats 
and  remainders  of  poultry  and  game  are  left 
on  hand  that  will  make  excellent  dishes 
for  this  list,  but  could  not  be  utilized  other- 
wise, so  that  there  are  motives  of  economy 
as  well  as  excellence  of  the  table  in  favor 
of  keeping  up  a  medium  sized  list  of  en- 
trees. Three  or  four  entrees  each  day  it 
about  the  right  number. 


64 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


HOW    MANY    VEGETABLES? 

If  a  profusion  of  dishes  be  excusable 
anywhere  it  should  be  in  the  line  of  vege- 
tables, and  every  improvement  in  the 
methods  of  cooking  them  should  be  en- 
couraged both  from  motives  of  economy 
and  of  health.  And  on  general  principles 
the  consumption  of  vegetables  should  be 
encouraged,  instead  of  meat,  as  tending  to 
reduce  the  cost  of  living.  A  wide  field  for 
the  exercise  of  the  cook's  art  exists  in  the 
richness  of  our  American  vegetable  pro- 
ducts, and  it  has  not  been  worked  out  as 
meat  and  pastry  cooking  have,  but  affords 
plenty  of  room  for  new  methods  to  be 
introduced.  There  should  be  six  or  eight 
vegetables  each  day  and  different  ways  of 
cooking  some  of  them  introduced  almost 
as  often. 

HOW   MANY   KINDS   OF   PASTRY? 

The  exti  aordinary  fondness  of  Americans 
for  pie,  so  often  remarked  upon,  is  only 
apparent,  not  real.  We  like  the  pastry  de- 
partment just  as  well  as  any  other  nation 
of  people  does,  and  no  better;  the  reason 
why  pie  appears  so  prominent  is  because 
we  call  those  things  pie,  which  the  English 
and  French  call  by  other  names,  conse- 
quently we  have  ten  times  as  many  pies 
(so  called)  as  they  have.  The  English  pie 
has  always  a  top  crust ;  the  things  which 
we  call  corn-starch  pie,  lemon  pie,  custard 
pie,  and  the  like,  they  make  the  same  way 
in  a  deep  dish,  with  a  thin  bottom  crust  of 
paste,  and  call  them  puddings,  or,  if  small, 
cheesecakes ;  and  our  open  fruit  pies  they 
call  tarts.  There  is  an  English  cook  book 
that  contains  recipes  for  making  one  thou- 
sand puddings,  but  a  large  proportion  of 
them  over  here  would  be  called  pies;  that 
is  how  it  is  we  seem  to  be  the  only  pie-eat- 
ing nation.  For  mere  good  living  one 
kind  of  pudding  or  pie  is  sufficient,  but 
from  motives  of  policy  the  hotel  table 
should  be  provided  with  two  kinds,  per- 
haps three — that  is,  a  pudding,  a  covered 
pie  and  an  open  pie — and  as  ornamental 
considerations  have  the  more  weight  to- 


wards the  end  of  a  dinner,  when  the  appe- 
tite is  not  so  obtrusive,  it  is  as  well  to  care 
a  little  for  the  contrasts  in  appearance  of 
the  pastry,  and  let  a  showy  meringue  shine 
along  with  a  dark  fruit  pie  and  a  red  cran- 
berry along  with  a  white  or  yellow  custard. 
The  universal  liking  for  ice  creams,  the 
ease  of  making  them  now  with  the  im- 
proved freezers  and  universal  supply  of 
'ce,  and  the  many  varieties  of  such  creams 
and  frozen  compounds  now  generally 
known,  have  almost  driven  out  the  favorite 
sweets  of  years  ago. 


CONCLUSIONS    AS    TO    THE     AMERICAN 
DINNER   BILL   OF   FARE. 

Some  bills  of  fare  of  the  best  American 
hotels  which  appear  to  be  quite  wrong  in 
arrangement  when  compared  with  French 
models  are  quite  right  according  to  Italian 
fashions.  Some  that  are  quite  wrong  ac- 
cording to  the  Italians  are  right  according 
to  the  French.  Those  that  are  right  ac- 
cording to  one  or  both  of  them  are  wrong 
again  according  to  German,  or  Spanish,  or 
English,  or  Russ-ian  or  other  fashions.  The 
only  way  to  be  right  is  to  adopt  an  Ameri- 
can form  of  bill  of  fare  and  count  all  of 
them  wrong  in  the  degree  that  they  depart 
from  it  The  conclusions  to  be  drawn 
from  the  foregoing  examples  and  com- 
ments are: 

1.  There  is  a  good  form  of  American 
bill  of  fare  already  in  use  in  the  great  ma- 
jority of  our  hotels,  but  better  specimens 
of  it  can  be  had  from  any  part  of  the  United 
States  than  from  New  York  City. 

2.  It  is  necessary  to  have  a  top  heading 
to  the  bill,  and  it  is  correct  and   quite  op- 
tional to  use  either  Bill  of  Fare,  Menu, 
Dinner,  or  Table  d^Hote. 

3.  It  is  best,  on  account  of  the  strange- 
ness of  strange  people  in  most  hotels,  to 
have  headings  to  the  divisions  of  the  bill  of 
fare,  and  nearly  all  foreign  menus,  except 
French   fashionable  party   cards,   set  the 
same  example;  yet,  if  the  hotel  does  not 
receive  many  strangers,  headings  are  not 
required  for  regular  residents.    There  is  no 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


need  of  running  to  the  extreme  of  big 
black  letter  headings  in  one  case  nor  to  a 
confused  jumble  of  di>hes  in  the  other. 

4.  American  preferences  favor  the  pre- 
liminary course  of  raw  oysters  in  the  sea- 
son  and   clams   as   a   substitute   at  other 
times,  and  most  of  the  cold  side  dishes. 
The  hot  hors  d  '<zuvre  to  be  eaten  after  the 
soup  is  not  an  American  favorite  in  tha' 
place  and  is  not  needed.     It  is  found  to  be 
most  convenient  to  place  the  oysters  in  a 
separate  line  preceding  the  soup  and  the 
cold  hors  d'ceuvres  or  side  dishes  after  the 
soup,  instead  of  the  superfluous  hot  mouth- 
ful or  bouchee. 

5.  Good  foreign  sanction  can  be  found 
for   the   above   arrangement,  and  equally 
good  authority  in  the  French  fashion  for 
placing    such   side   dishes   as   cucumbers, 
olives,   celery,  sliced  tomatoes,  etc.,   after 
the  fish  instead  of  after  the  soup,  and  some 
of  the  best  American  bills  of  fare  show  the 
preference  of  many  hotel  keepers  for  that 
arrangement,  which  is  quite  an  optional 
matter  and  immaterial. 

6.  The  serving  of  fancy  forms  of  po- 
tatoes with  fish  should  be  adopted  as  a  part 
of  the  American  fashion. 

7.  The  solid  boiled  and  roasted  meats, 
which  the  English  put  under  the  heading 
of  "Joints,"  should  be  placed  in  the  Amer- 
ican bill  of  fare  after  the  fish  and  before 
the  entrees,  because  that  is  the  order  in 
which  they  are   generally  called   for.     If 
high  foreign  sanction  is  wanted  it  can  be 
found  in  two  out  of  the  "three  royal  ex- 
amples" given  hi  a  former  article,  where 
the  roasts  come  first,  and  also  is  the  teach- 
ing of  the  French  gastronomers  that  the 
plain  and  substantial  dishes  should  come 
first. 

8.  When  game  appears  in  its  season  it 
should  be  placed  in  the  American  bill  un- 
der a  separate   "game"   heading   immedi- 
ately after  the  roast  meats  and  before  the 
entrees. 

9.  The  gratuitous  sot-bet  or  punch  is  an 
added  luxury,  but  is  in  a  general  way  detri- 
mental to  the  hotel  keepers'  interests.     If 
wanted  in  the  bill  it  should  be  placed  after 


the  roast  meats  in  the  table  d'hote  arrange- 
ments of  dishes,  for  if  placed  lower  down 
it  only  becomes  a  preliminary  to  the  pastry, 
seeing  that  most  people  take  meats,  entrees 
and  vegetables  all  at  one  serving,  and  the 
punch  should  go  with  them  or  immediately 
after.  This  feature  is  never  found  in  a 
fashionable  English  dinner.  They  have 
no  use  for  punch  anywhere  but  with  turtle 
soup,  unless,  perhaps,  instead  of  wine  after 
dinner. 

Making  allowance  for  the  slight  varia- 
tion caused  by  the  insertion  of  "game;"  the 
annexed,  one  of  chef  Theodore  Pierrot's 
Sunday  bills,  may  be  taken  to  show 

A  REPRESENTATIVE  AMERICAN-PLAN 

BILL  OF  FARE: 

HOTEL  EMERY. 

DINNER. 
Sunday,  March  ist,  1885, 

SOUP. 
Bisque  of  Oysters        Consomm6  Royal 

FISH. 

Filet  of  Sole  a  1'Orly 

Parisienne  Potatoes 

Chow  Chow  Olives 

BOILED. 
Ham  and  Cabbage       Turkey,  Oyster  sauce 

ROAST. 

Ribs  of  Beef 

Young  Turkey  stuffed,  Cranberry  Jelly 

ENTREES.- 
Sweetbreads  braized  aux  petits  Pois 

Deviled  Crabs,  Baltimore  style 
Filet  Mjgnon  saute,  sauce  Madeira 

CARDINAL  PUNCH. 

GAME. 
Prairie  Chicken  en  Salmi,  sauce  Mushrooms 

SALADS.  « 

Fresh  Lettuce         Chicken  Mayonnaise 

VEGETABLES. 

Mashen*  Potatoes        Boiled  Potatoes 

Stewed  Tomatoes      Green  Peas      Stuffed  Cabbage 

Asparagus,  Cream  sauce 

PASTRY. 
Mince  P'e       Peach  Meringue  Pie       Pumpkin  Pie 

Queen  Pudding,  Wine  Cream  sauce 
Apple  Dumplings,  Family  style 

Sago  Pudding  with  Cream  sauce 

DESSERT. 

Vanilla  Ice  Cream        i  harlotte  Russe 
Champagne   Wine  Jelly 

Assorted  Fancy  Cake 

Fruits  Cheese    "        Crack'rs 

Coffee 


66 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


10.  There  should  be  two  soups,  but  not 
of  the  same  character ;  one  should  be  clear, 
the  other  thick. 

11.  The   dishes   regularly  in  a  bill  of 
fare  should  be  sufficient  in  number  to  give 
opportunities  to  use  up  small  quantities  of 
provisions  and  remnants  of  good  things 
and  to  tax  the  ingenuity  of  the  cooks,  but 
beyond  that  there  should  be  no  lavishness. 

12.  Many  of  the  additions  to  our  food 
known  as  relishes  are  real  luxuries,  and 
should  be  named  in  the  bill  in  a  line  by 
themselves  without  a  heading. 

LUNCH  AND  DINNER  OR  DINNER  AND 
SUPPER? 

This  question  comes  up  whenever  any 
hotel  assumes  the  rank  of  first-class,  and  is 
often  a  very  perplexing  one,  for  a  few  in- 
sist that  they  must  dine  at  about  six  or 
seven  in  the  evening  or  never,  and  if  that 
hour  is  adopted  a  greater  number  are  made 
uncomfortable  by  it,  for  to  dine  in  the 
middle  of  the  day  is  natural  (according  to 
our  national  habits);  to  dine  at  night  is 
artificial,  the  habit  of  the  few  who  retire 
late  at  night  and  rise  late  in  the  morning. 
When  the  artificialists  have  their  way,  and 
the  dinner  hour  is  in  the  evening,  a  new 
contention  arises,  for  then  there  is  a  lunch 
at  mid-day,  or  about  one  o'clock,  which  for 
the  hotel  keeper's  interest  ought  to  be  a 
light  and  inexpensive  meal,  a  cold  repast, 
but  then  the  plain-mannered  people  try 
their  best  to  make  their  accustomed  mid- 
day dinner  out  of  it,  and  the  hotel  caterer 
is  urged  to  have  this  thing  and  that,  to  the 
end  that  they  may  make  a  complete  meal, 
and  the  result  is  apt  to  be  that  the  hotel 
gives  two  expensive  dinners  every  day  in- 
stead of  only  one  dinner  and  a  light  supper, 
and  at  last  it  settles  down,  in  many  places 
where  the  rates  are  high  enough,  to  the 
setting  out  of  four  meals  a  day,  or  even 
five:  breakfast,  lunch,  then  dinner  and 
supper,  both  nearly  together  at  from  five 
to  seven  o'clock,  and,  in  the  few  places,  to 
having  both  lunch  and  mid-day  dinner  and 
then  late  dinner  and  supper  also.  This  is 
the  state  of  the  case  as  experience  compels 


it,  and  we  have  but  little  to  do  with  people's 
motives,  yet  when  it  is  left  purely  optional 
with  the  hotel  proprietor  there  are  some 
arguments  in  it  worth  thinking  over.  It 
is  a  positive  fact  that  heavy  dinners  or  sup- 
pers are  very  unhealthy  for  people  who  go 
to  bed  at  ordinary  hours;  the  hotel  man 
whose  guests  and  boarders  adopt  such  habits 
will  have  a  lot  of  cross  and  uncomfortable 
people  at  breakfast  times  who  cannot  enjoy 
anything  and  cannot  possibly  be  pleased. 
Those  who  eat  meat  dinners  at  night 
should  remain  up  and  in  activity  until 
twelve  at  least,  and  then  take  a  cracker  or 
slice  of  bread  before  retiring.  But  there  is 
a  business  class  of  merchants  and  bankers 
who  have  no  time  for  a  regular  formal 
dinner  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  and  a 
plausible  reason  in  the  necessity  of  the 
case  can  be  given  for  them,  but  in  the  in- 
terests of  good  health  and  cheerfulness  if 
they  are  to  indulge  in  the  profusion  of  the 
hotel  dinner  they  should  dine  as  early  as 
possible — from  five  to  six.  A  majority 
(but  by  no  means  all)  of  the  really  first- 
class  hotels  serve  dinner  in  the  evening, 
and  take  pains  to  publish  it  in  their  bill  of 
fare  as  being  the  higher  fashion,  yet  those 
who  know  all  about  the  business  are  apt  to 
doubt  whether  the  guests  really  fare  as 
well  as  under  the  other  style.  It  costs 
more  to  have  dinner  at  night;  it  keeps  the 
cooking  operations  going  on  all  day ;  there 
is  no  "let  up"  to  hotel  work  until  dinner  is 
over,  consequently  dinner  at  night  means 
late  work  as  well  as  early,  and  more  hands 
are  required  for  it.  Three,  if  not  four, 
soups  are  required  each  day,  and  the  in- 
ducement is  strong  to  make  the  soup  that 
is  left  over  from  lunch  serve  also  for  the 
evening  dinner  with  only  a  change  of 
name,  and  the  same  with  roast  meats  and 
ice  cream.  When  the  proprietor,  manager 
or  steward  is  determined  that  the  evening 
dinner  shall  be  all  fresh  cooked  he  is  care- 
ful to  see  that  no  more  is  cooked  for  lunch 
than  will  be  consumed  at  once.  The  con- 
clusion is  that  the  night  dinner  is  not  the 
best  on  general  principles ;  where  business 
considerations  compel  its  adoption  there  U 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


67 


nothing  to  be  said,  but  where  it  is  but  a 
matter  of  choice,  as  in  a  great  many  resort 
hotels,  the  proprietor,  manager  or  steward 
will  find  it  best  to  lean  towards  the  dinner 
In  the  middle  of  the  day.  In  many  cases 
all  parties  may  be  satisfied  with  the  dinner 
hour  at  two,  half  past,  or  three  o'clock,  and 
only  a  light  cold  meat  and  hot  bread  sup- 
per afterwards. 

HOW   MUCH   FOR   LUNCH? 

The  hotel  man,  as  already  observed,  will 
find  himself  pulling  the  other  way  from  a 
great  number  of  his  guests  who  want  to 
make  a  good  square  meal  out  of  the  one 
o'clock  lunch,  and  as  the  waiters  and  cooks 
are  disposed  to  be  accommodating  he  may 
soon  find  that  the  lunch  is  bigger  and  cost- 
lier than  the  evening  dinner  if  he  does  not 
act  with  firmness  to  keep  it  down,  and  with 
equal  firmness  to  close  the  doors  at  the 
stated  time,  otherwise  the  lunch  is  the 
longest  drawn  out  and  least  satisfactory  of 
all  meals ;  very  few  people  can  be  satisfied 
with  it  in  any  case. 

This  is  a  very  fair  example  of  a  lunch 
bill  of  fare.  It  is  from  a  New  York  hotel. 
The  number  of  dishes  offered  is  sufficient. 
Duration,  from  one  to  two  o'clock: 

LUNCH. 

FROM  i  TO  a. 

SOUP. 

Creme  a  la  Duchesse 

COLD  MEATS. 

Turkey  Beef  Tongue         Roast  Beef 

HOT  DISHKS. 

Salmi  of  Venison,  Champignons 
Chicken  Rissoles 

SALADS. 

Mayonnaise  de  Volaille  Cold  Slaw 

Beets       Salad  a  la  Russe       Potato 

RELISHES. 

Horse  Radish      Gherkins      White  Onions 
Olives         Chow-Chow 

PASTRY  AND  PRESERVES. 

Quince  Roll,  Lemon  Sauce 

Green  Gage  Plums        Cake 

COFFEE  TEA 

Dinner  from  5  :y>  to  8. 

Al  Dishes  ordered  not  on  Bill  of  Fare  will  be 
charged  a  la  Carte 

TUESDAY,  February  3,  1888. 


Peculiar  circumstances  sometimes  cause 
a  deviation  from  general  rules.  The  writet 
was  once  concerned  in  a  place  where  the 
lunch  was  by  four  or  five  times  a  better 
meal  than  the  evening  dinner,  both  in  the 
number  of  people  and  in  the  dishes  served. 
It  was  a  fine  hotel  at  the  end  of  a  railroad 
which  brought  daily  excursions  at  half 
past  twelve,  too  early  to  have  dinner  in  any 
first-class  hotel,  so,  lunch  it  was  called,  and 
that  being  a  pleasure  resort,  with  a  brass 
band  playing,  the  lunches  were  immense, 
though  the  dinners  were  very  modest 
affairs  for  only  a  few  regulars. 

WHAT   SORT  OF   DISHES   FOR   LUNCH? 

In  the  hotel  cook  books  may  be  found 
sample  lunch  bills  of  fare  which  show  how 
some  hotels  serve  a  number  of  breakfast 
dishes,  such  as  hominy  and  milk,  also 
baked  beans,  pigs'  feet,  codfish  balls,  and 
various  odds  and  ends  to  make  up  a  good- 
sized  list.  In  a  general  way  those  dishes 
may  be  chosen  which,  a1  though  good, 
seem  hardly  good  enough  or  elaborate 
enough  for  a  dinner  entree;  the  salmi  of 
venison  in  the  specimen  biil  of  fare  shown 
in  a  preceding  article  of  this  series  is  an 
example.  There  is  nothing  wrong  about 
it,  yet  we  can  but  think  it  was  only  sliced 
venison  with  thin  mushroom  sauce;  one 
would  rather  have  birds  of  some  kind  for  a 
salmi  for  dinner.  Then  all  the  hot  hors 
d'oeuvres,  which  it  is  hard  to  find  a  place 
for  in  the  dinner  bill,  are  just  right  for 
lunch;  the  chicken  rissoles  of  the  above 
mentioned  bill  is  an  example  in  point  All 
sorts  of  salads  come  in  place  for  lunch,  and 
all  sorts  of  cold  ornamental  dishes,  galan- 
tines and  cold  raised  pies  or  f  'Sites.  Besides 
these,  the  same  list  to  be  found  further  on, 
of  dishes  suitable  for  supper,  is  equally 
applicable  to  the  lunch  bill  of  fare.  This 
bill,  like  the  dinner  bill,  is  changed  every 
day,  and  has  to  be  either  printed  daily  or 
written. 

The  next  is  an  example  of  the  small  bill 
of  fare  selected  for  children  dining  sepa- 
rately in  care  of  nurses,  in  a  large  resort 
hotel  where  at  least  three  times  as  many 


68 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


dishes  were  served  in  the  great  dining  room 
an  hour  later  for  the  adults. 

A  number  of  these  bills  will  be  found 
with  lines  and  reading  notices  apparently 
superfluous  for  the  object  of  these  articles, 
especially  the  breakfast  bills  now  to  follow ; 
they  are  given  entire,  however,  to  show 
the  usages  of  good  hotels  in  these  respects, 
purely  for  information. 

HOTEL  SAN  MARCO, 

St.  Augustine,  Fla. 


CHILDREN'S  ORDINARY. 


DINNER, 
SUNDAY,         •        -        -        APRIL  10,  1887. 

SOUP. 
Chicken  Consommi 

FISH. 
Boiled  bass 

BOILED. 

Mutton 

ROAST. 

Ribs  of  beef 

ENTREES. 

Pineapple  fritters  Macaroni,  a  1'Italienne 

VEGETABLES. 

Mashed  potatoes  Stewed  tomatoes 

Baked  sweet  potatoes 

COLD. 

Tongue        Ham        Roast  Beef 
Lobster  Salad 

PASTRY  AND   DESSERT. 

Baked  Indian   pudding1 

Lime  meringue  pie          Appple  pie 

Assorted  cake  Strawberry  ice  cream 

Apple  sauce 
Crackers          Nuts          Raisins 


THE   BREAKFAST   BILL    OF   FARE. 

The  common  custom  is  to  print  the 
breakfast  and  supper  bills  in  advance,  per- 
haps a  thousand  at  a  time,  and  endeavor  to 
have  every  dish  that  is  named  each  morn- 
ing or  else  mark  it  off.  Where  the  hotel 
keepers  and  stewards  are  progressive  and 
the  additional  expense  of  printing  is  not  an 
obstacle  a  newly  corrected  bill  is  printed 
for  every  meal  and  a  smaller  list  is  suf- 
ficient, there  always  being  something  fresh 
to  expect.  Comparatively  few  of  those 


who  have  had  experience  with  the  dinner 
bill  and  its  daily  changes  have  had  much 
practice  in  changing  the  breakfast  and  sup- 
per lists,  and  many  will  find  it  hard  to 
think  of  new  dishes  to  change  with,  and 
for  their  convenience  a  list  of  suitable 
dishes  is  given  in  the  pages  following  these 
example  bills. 

PEABODT   HOTEL. 

BREAKFAST. 

Fruit  in  Season 

Oat  Meal        Cracked  Wheat          Grits 

FISH.          Fried  or  Broiled  Fresh  Fish 

Boiled  or  Broiled  Salt  Mackerel 

BROILED.  Mutton  Chops 

Sirloin  Steak,  Plain,  with  Onions,  Tomato  or 

Creole  Sauce 
Ham      Bacon      Calves'  Liver      Tripe 

FRIED.  Veal  Cutlets,  Breaded  Kidneys 

Ham       Sirloin  Steak,  with  Brown  Gravy 

Calves'  Liver,  with  Salt  Pork      Corned  Beef  Hash 

Hamburg  Steak      Mush      Sausage 


STEWED. 
EGGS. 


Mutton        Kidneys 


Tripe 

Fried        Boiled        Poached 

Shirred        Scrambled 

Omelets,  Plain,  with  Parsley,  Cheese, 

Onions  or  Jelly 

COLD.        Roast  Beef        Roast  Mutton 

Corned  Beef  Boiled  Ham 

POTATOES.        French  Fried      Stewed  in  Cream 
Lyonaise  Boiled  Saute 

BREADS,  ETC.        French,        Vienna,        Cream 

Graham,        Corn  and  Plain  Bread 
French  Rolls    Graham  Muffins    Corn  Muffins 

Toast          Crackers 
Corn,  Wheat  and  Buckwheat  Gnddle  Cakes 


Maple  White  Rock 

New  Orleans  Molasses 


SYRUP. 

3 

COFFEE    CHOCOLATE    TEA    MILK 


HOURS  FOR  MEALS. 
Breakfast,  7-1 J.        Dinner,  1-4.        Supper,  6-9. 

SUNDAY. 
Breakfast,  7:30-11.      Dinner,  1:30-4.       Supper,  6-9. 

CHILDREN   AND   NURSES. 

Breakfast,  7.        Dinner,  i.        Supper,  6 

The  first  is  from  a  hotel  that  prints  a 
new  supper  bill  every  evening,  but  has 
this,  its  breakfast  bill,  stationary.  Any 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


69 


hotel  keeper  or  steward  who  may  be  in  the 
act  of  choosing  a  form  of  bill  for  a  new 
hotel  or  other  beginning  will  find  use  for 
all  the  particulars  of  headings,  hours  for 
meals,  notices  and  all  such  particulars 
which  are  much  better  shown  than  written 
about 

BREAKFAST. 


Wheat  Flakes 


FRUIT. 

Oat  Meal 

FISH. 


Wheaten  Grits 


Salt  Mackerel  Fish  Balls 

Broiled  or  Fried  Fresh  Fish 

BROILED. 

Beefsteak  Ham  Lamb  Chops 

Breakfast  Bacon 


Ham 


FRIED. 

Rasher  of  Bacon 
Frankfort  Sausage 


Tripe 


Stewed  or  Fried  Pigs'  Feet  Stewed  Kidneys 

Smoked  Beef  with  Eggs  or  Cream 

EGGS. 

Boiled       Fried       Scrambled        Poached  on  Toast 
Omelets,  plain,  with  Cheese,  Parsley  and  Jelly 

COLD  MEATS. 


Baked 


POTATOES. 
Hashed  with  Cream 


French  Fried 


BREAD,  ETC. 

Corn  Muffins        Graham  Bread 

French  Rolls        Toast         Plain  Bread 

Oolong  and  English  Breakfast  Tea 
Coffee  Chocolate  Cocoa 


HOURS  FOR  MEALS. 
Breakfast  7  to  9.        Dinner  i  to  3.        Supper  6  to  8. 

NURSES  AND  CHILDREN: 
Breakfast  7.      Dinner  12:30.      Supper  5:30. 

An  extra  charge  for  dishes  ordered  not  on  the 
Bill  of  Fare. 

The  second  of  these  bills  is  from  a  hotel 
that  prints  a  new  bill  for  every  breakfast, 
making  the  changes  on  wheat  flakes,  cere- 
aline,  hominy  grits,  graham  farina,  cracked 
wheat  mush,  rolled  avena,  and  all  the 
names  which  the  manufacturers  and  mer- 
chants invent  for  such  farinaceous  wares; 
that  is  for  the  first  line,  and  all  the  others 
are  similarly  changed,  especially  the  styles 
of  potatoes  and  breads  and  the  entrees. 


BREAKFAST. 

FRUIT. 
Oat  Meal  and  Grits  with  cream 

Green,  English,  Breakfast  and  Japan  Teas 
Coffee  and  Chocolate 

BROILED. 

Beefsteak,  Plain,  Tomato  Sauce  or  Onions 

Veal  Cutlets,  Plain  or  Breaded 

Mutton  Chops,  Plain,  Breaded  or  with  Tomato  Sauce 

Lamb  Chops    Calf's  Liver    Mutton  Kidneys 

Ham  Tripe  Breakfast  Bacon 

Pigs'  Feet,  Plain  or  in  Batter 

COLD. 

Lamb  Tongues        Roast  Beef       Smoked  Tongue* 
Pressed  Corn  Beef 

FISH. 
Broiled  or  Fried  Trout      Sheephead      Redfish 

Croaker    Redfish  Courtbouillon 
Tenderloin  of  Trout,  Sauce  Tartar 

Salt  Fish  with  Cream. 
Codfish  Balls  Salt  Mackerel 

EGGS. 
As  Ordered 


Saratoga  Chips, 
Lyonaise  Baked  and  Stewed  Potatoes 

Broiled,  Raw,  Stewed  and  Fried  Oysters 

Stewed  Kidneys,  Tripe  and  Corned  Beef  Hash 

Sausages 

Fried  Hominy        Boston  Brown  Bread 

Vienna  and  French  Rolls      Egg-  Muffins 

Graham  and  Plain  Bread     Dry  and  Milk  Toast 

Buckwheat  Cakes    Maple  Syrup    Honey 


BREAKFAST  WINES. 


SAUTERNES.          Pts.     Qts. 
Haute  Sauterne...tl  00    $2  00 


CLARETS. 


Pts.    Qti. 


St.  Julien $0  75    $1  25 


La  Tour  Blanche... 2  00      Chateau  Bouiliac...     75      125 

Sauterne 100      2  00  |  St.  Estephe 76      125 


Breakf  .ist  from  6  to  9:30        Dinner  from  I  to  3 

Supper,  6  to  9. 

Breakfast  on  Sunday,  8:00  to  10:30 
Dinner  "  "  2:00  to  4:00 
Supper  "  "  6:30  to  9:00 


Dishes  ordered  not  on  this  Bill  will  be 
charged  extra.    , 


70 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


The  third  breakfast  bill  shows  another 
style.  It  is  the  winter  breakfast  bill  of  a 
large  New  Orleans  hotel,  one  of  the  best 
in  the  South,  printed  a  thousand  at  a  time 
and  showing  a  rich  variety,  but  yet  has  two 
blank  lines  left  to  write  in  any  novelty  or 
fresh  acquisition  from  the  markets.  The 
list  of  breakfast  wines  accords  with  the 
customs  in  that  part  of  the  country. 

"THE  SAN  MARCO? 
BREAKFAST. 

Oranges 
Tea    Coffee    Chocolate    Shells    Hominy 

Oatmeal  mush       Hot  rolls       Dry  and  Cream  toast 

FISH. 

Broiled  shad          Smoked  herring 
Smoked  salmon     Codfish  balls    Codfish  and  cream 

Codfish  hash        Fried  oysters 
Stewed  oysters       Broiled  salt  mackerel 

BROILED  AND  FRIED. 

Sirloin  steak     Bacon     Mutton  chops    Veal  cutlets 

Venison  steak  Pickled  tripe 

Liver      Sausages      Ham 

Pickled  pig's  feet 

Mutton  chops,  breaded,  tomato  sauee 
Stewed  tripe  Stewed  chicken 

Veal  cutlets,  breaded,  tomato  sauce 
Corned  beef  hash  Fried  hominy 

Fried  Indian  meal  mush 
Stewed  kidneys  Fried  banana* 

EGGS. 
Boiled     Fried     Scrambled     Poached     Omelettes 

POTATOES. 

Baked      French  fried      Saratoga      Lyonnaise 

Hashed  browned    Hashed,  with  cream 

Baked  and  fried  sweet 

Gridle  cakes  Buckwheat  cakes 

Maple  Syrup 

The  fourth  is  the  breakfast  bill  of  one  of 
the  finest  winter  resort  hotels  in  Florida, 
under  northern  management.  This  is  a 
stock  bill  of  fare,  printed  a  thousand  at  a 
time,  but  has  a  style  of  its  own  and  is  de- 
void of  notices  or  any  extraneous  additions. 


THE   SHERWOOD. 

BREAKFAST. 


BAKED  APPLES 
OATMEAL 


TOMATOES 

FRUITS  STEWED   PRUN1 

HOMINY  CRACKED   WHEAT 


BREAD,  CAKES,  ETC. 
French  Rolls        Graham  Rolls       English  Muffin* 

Boston  Brown  Bread      Corn  Bread 

Rye  Bread        Rice  Cakes        Wheat  Muffin* 

Rice  Muffins    Indian  Cakes    Crumpets 

Wheat  Cakes 

FISH. 
Salt  Codfish  with  cream        Fish  Balls 

Baltimore  Roe  Herring-        Salt  Mackerel 
Codfish  Hash       Smoked  Salmon       Smelts 
Shad          Codfish  steak 

BROILKD. 

Beefsteak        Ham        Pig's  Feet  broiled 

Mutton  Chops        Veal  Cutlets        Breakfast  Bacon 

Mutton  Kidneys        Calf's  Liver  and  Bacon 

Chicken     Pork  Chops 
Chicken  Livers  en  brochette 

STEWED. 
Mutton  kidneys  with  mushroom* 

Chicken  Livers  with  mushrooms 
Clams    Oysters    Roast  Beef  Hash    Chicken  Hash 
Corned  Beef  Hash 

FRIED. 

Hominy      Mush      Deerfoot  Farm  Sausage* 
Oysters  Scollops 

EGGS. 

Boiled        Scrambled        Poached        Fried 
Shirred        Omelet 

POTATOES. 

Baked        Hashed  with  cream        Fried 
Lyonnaise        Sautees 


Breakfast,  7  to  n. 

Dinner,  6  to  7 130. 


Lunch,  i  to  a. 
Supper,  9  to  11:30. 


The  fifth,  a  New  York  City  hotel  bill, 
with  a  list  as  rich  and  abundant  as  any, 
shows  different  ways  of  grouping  the  ar- 
ticles together  and  is  suggestive  of  many 
suitable  breakfast  dishes.  Nothing  could 
show  so  well  as  this  bill  how  much  work 
must  be  done  in  a  hotel  before  breakfast. 
Undoubtedly  there  are  too  many  dishes 
offered  in  all  but  one  or  two  of  these  bills, 
still,  as  a  good  many  of  them  are  not 
cooked  until  ordered  the  destruction  of 
provisions  is  not  quite  as  serious  as  it  looks. 

Manifestly  the  proper  rule  in  composing 
the  breakfast  bill  is  to  place  the  dishes  in 
the  order  that  they  are  eaten  by  the  gen- 
erality of  people.  It  is  the  custom,  and 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


71 


the  fashion,  too,  to  eat  fruit  as  a  beginning, 
and  then  oatmeal  or  hominy  or  cracked 
wheat  with  cream ;  only  small  portions  are 
served.  After  that  the  fish,  meats,  eggs 
and  potatoes  and  bread  are  selected  from 
all  at  once,  and  it  makes  little  difference 
except  for  the  appearance  of  the  bill  what 
order  they  are  printed  in,  but  waffles,  crum- 
pets, and  all  kinds  of  griddle  cakes  are 
eaten  last  and  should  appear  last  in  the 
bill,  as  they  do  in  most  of  the  examples. 
The  San  Marco  bill  is  the  best  model  as 
regards  the  arrangement  of  different  classes 
of  dishes. 

ABOUT   THE    AMERICAN   BREAKFAST. 

There  is  no  French  pattern  for  the 
American  breakfast  bill;  the  French  do 
not  know  anything  about  any  such  break- 
fasts as  our  hotels  set  out.  The  English 
have  some  idea  of  it,  for  they  believe  in 
taking  a  tolerably  substantial  meal  to  begin 
the  day  upon,  but  their  ideas  of  what  some- 
thing substantial  consists  of  do  not  reach 
up  anywhere  near  the  displays  of  actual 
meals  in  the  five  breakfast  bills  of  the  fore- 
going pages.  The  French  custom  is  to 
take  a  light  breakfast  of  coffee  or  chocolate 
and  rolls  or  bread,  and  defer  the  eating  of 
a  hearty  meal  until  the  middle  of  the  day; 
the  English  expect  for  breakfast,  besides 
the  coffee  or  tea,  a  chop,  or  bacon  and 
eggs,  hot  rolls  from  the  bakers,  and  butter, 
or  toast  with  some  sort  of  appetizing  addi- 
tion such  as  potted  tongue,  anchovies  or 
marmalade,  and  that  is  thought  to  be  a 
sufficiently  plentiful  meal  to  last  until 
lunch  at  noon ;  dinner  taking  place  at  two 
or  three  o'clock  and  a  cold  supper  some 
time  between  candle-lighting  and  bed-time, 
according  to  the  habits  of  the  family,  and 
the  same  form  prevails  in  the  hotels. 

Without  leaving  our  proper  domain  and 
going  into  that  of  the  doctor's  it  may  at 
least  be  asserted  that  our  people  eat  too 
much  for  good  health  and  at  the  wrong 
times.  Could  anybody  reasonably  contend 
that  such  an  immense  number  and  variety 
of  viands  are  necessary  as  appear  on  the 
third,  fourth  and  fifth  breakfast  bills  pre- 


ceeding?  And  yet  a  necessity  of  a  certain 
kind  does  exist,  it  is  the  business  necessity 
which  obliges  the  hotel  keepers  to  try  to 
please  people  who,  having  eaten  too  much 
the  day  and  night  before,  have  no  real 
healthy  appetite  for  breakfast,  but  pick 
around,  find  fault,  and  imagine  that  if  there 
was  only  something  else  which  is  not  there 
they  could  eat;  that  oysters  stewed  and  fried 
are  perhaps  very  good,  but  as  for  them  they 
can  never  eat  them  any  way  but  broiled,  and 
while  the  friend  at  their  right  must  have 
fresh  fish,  yet  criticises  the  shad  for  its 
bones — for  their  part  .if  all  the  fishes  of  the 
sea  were  there  they  can  only  pick  a  bit  of 
smoked  salmon.  While  such  an  unreason- 
able demand  for  quantity  exists  the  de- 
mand will  be  supplied. 

"My  dear  Careme,"  once  said  the  Prince 
Regent  to  his  famous  cfief,  "your  dinner 
yesterday  was  superb.  Everything  you 
gave  me  was  delicious,  but  you  will  make 
me  die  of  indigestion." 

"Mon  Prince,"  returned  Careme,  bowing 
low,  "my  duty  is  to  flatter  your  appetite, 
not  to  control  it." 

There  is  no  doubt,  however,  that  it  is 
frequently  the  case  in  our  hotels  that  the 
hotel  man,  the  proprietor,  manager  or 
steward,  as  the  case  may  be,  has  it  quite 
within  his  own  control  to  provide  a  small 
but  excellent  spread  instead  of  such  an 
overgrown  catalogue  as  those  shown.  It 
is  sometimes  ill-naturedly  charged  that 
these  bills  of  fare  are  not  true  representa- 
tions of  the  actual  meals,  that  a  large  por- 
tion of  the  dishes  are  "  crossed  off  "  before 
the  bill  goes  to  table.  In  fact,  there  is 
nothing  more  distasteful  to  the  hotel  keeper 
or  steward  than  to  have  a  "scratched"  bill 
go  to  the  table,  and  great  trouble  is  often 
taken  and  considerable  expense  to  obtain 
some  scarce  article,  not  so  much  because 
it  is  really  needed  as  because  it  is  on  the 
bill  of  fare.  So  where  it  is  optional,  or 
nearly  so,  with  the  hotel  man  whether  he 
will  make  out  a  big  list  of  dishes  or  a  small 
one  he  should  limit  the  number  to  a  rea- 
sonable amount,  and  limit  the  styles  oi 
cooking,  too ;  for  the  more  ways  of  cook- 


72 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


Ing  allowed  the  more  utensils,  more  hands 
(or  more  haste),  the  more  previous  prepara- 
tion and  more  waste.  Whatever  else  may 
be  said  of  the  hotel  breakfast,  it  is,  unless 
under  very  good  management,  the  most 
wasteful  meal  of  all,  chiefly  through  the 
propensity  of  the  guests  to  order  and  leave 
things  which  they  have  not  the  appetite  to 
eat,  and  in  a  great  measure  through  the 
number  of  things  offered  necessitating  the 
preparation  of  so  many  steaks,  chops,  pota- 
toes, breads,  fruits,  pieces  of  fish  and  the 
whole  list  according,  which,  if  not  used,  are 
the  more  liable  to  be  lo&t  through  being  so 
prepared. 

A  SMALL   PATTERN,   BUT   SUFFICIENT. 

Rather  than  be  compelled  to  include  al- 
most everything  in  a  stock  bill  of  fare,  and 
to  cross  off  several  dishes  each  morning 
because  unattainable,  it  is  better  to  name 
too  few;  have  the  bill  printed  with  a  blank 
line  or  two,  and  write  in  something  special 
every  morning.  It  may  be  chicken  or 
oysters,  perhaps,  in  some  places,  but  if  only 
one  kind  of  hash  (the  New  York  breakfast 
bill  has  three)  it  will  be  better  thought  of 
for  being  special  that  day  than  many  of 
the  stock  dishes  already  printed  in.  This 
example  shows  the  form : 

BREAKFAST. 

FRUIT 
COFFEE  TEA  HOMINY          OATMEAL 


FISH. 

SALT  FI$H  AND  CREAM 
ROILED   MACKEREL 


FRESH   FISH 

CODFISH  BALLS 


BROILED  AND   FRIED. 

SIRLOIN  STEAK.  LAMB  CHOPS 

BREAKFAST  BACON  BROILED  HAM 

FRIED  SALT  PORK  BROILED  TRIPE 


EGGS. 
BROILED  FRIED  SCRAMBLED 


COLD. 

TONGUE 


POTATOES. 

LYONNAISE 


OMELETTES 


TRENCH    ROLLS 


HOT  CORN   BREAD 


DRY  TOAST.   MILK  TOAST,    BUTTERED  TOAST. 


As  a  commentary  upon  the  absurd  pro- 
fuseness  of  the  American  hotel  breakfast 
these  bills  of  fare,  from  one  of  the  Penin- 
sular and  Oriental  Royal  Mail  steamships, 
are  appended.  It  is  true  they  do  not  enu- 
merate the  breads,  coffee  and  vegetables, 
but  neither  do  they  offer  many  varieties  of 
meats  or  fish,  or  of  porridge,  or  miscel- 
laneous ways  of  cooking. 

BILLS  OF  FARE. 


P.  &  O.  ss.  "Thames"  (at  sea  between  Gibraltar 
and  Plymouth.) 

BREAKFAST. 

Porridge 

Fried   Fish 

Mutton  Chops 

Minced  Col  lops 

Grilled  Bacon 

Scrambled  Egg* 

Curry  and  Rice 

Cold  Ham 

LUNCHEON 

Soused  Herrings  a  la  Sardine 

Corned  Brisket,  Roast  Mutton 

Bologna  Sausages,  Galantine  of  Veal 

Salad 
Mashed  Potatoes,  Cheese,  Buns 

DINNER. 
SOUP — Green  Pea 

FISH— Salmon  Cutlets  a  la  Maitre  d'Hotel 

JOINT — Roast  Beef  and  Horse-radish  Sauce 

ENTREES — Rissoles  of  Pheasant  a  la  Pompadour 

Macaroni  a  i'ltalienne 
POULTRY — Roast  Capon  and  Ham 

CURRY — Mutton 

PASTRY— Lemon  Jelly 

Almond  Custard 

Plum  Pudding 

Therein  m?y  be  found,  likewise,  good 
sanction  for  a  class  of  "breakfast  entrees,'' 
such  as  our  sample  bills  show;  there  are 
minced  collops,  and  curry  and  rice.  Also, 
an  idea  for  making  curry  a  standing  dish 
with  a  permanent  heading,  the  kind  ol 
meat  to  be  changed  at  will,  tor  dinner. 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


73 


A  SPECIAL  BILL  WHICH   IS  LARGE    ENOUGH 
FOR    ALL   TIMES. 

PEABODT    HOTEL. 
BREAKFAST. 

SUNDAY,  MAY  16,  1886. 


Strawberries   with  Cream 


Oat  Meal  Cracked  Wheat 


Grits 


BROILED— 

Spanish  Mackerel,  Maitre  d'Hotei  Sauce 

Duchesse  Potatoes 

Spring  Chicken,  Water  Cress 
Trench  Fried  Potatoes 


EGGS—  Fried 

Shirred 


Omelets  Boiled 

Poached 


BREAD,  ETC.— 

French  Rolls  Graham  Muffins 

Corn  Muffins  Brioches 

Wheat  Cakes  Corn  Cakes 


Coffee          Chocolate  Tea 


THE    AMERICAN    SUPPER   OR   TEA. 

The  same  thing  that  has  been  done  for 
the  breakfast  could  not  be  done  for  the 
supper ;  that  is,  the  presenting  of  a  set 
bills  that  fit  alike  all  hotels  in  any  part  of 
the  country,  for  while  there  is  great  uni- 
formity of  practice  in  one  respect  there  is 
extreme  diversity  in  the  other.  The 
American  breakfast  is  always  a  substantial 
meal ;  the  supper  may  be  anything  to  suit 
the  place,  or  may  not  appear  at  all.  The 
general  American  habit  is  to  partake  01 
only  three  meals  a  day :  a  good  breakfast 
a  good  dinner,  a  light  supper.  In  many 
hotels,  such  as  those  in  country  towns  anc 
at  resorts,  houses  that  are  not  too  fashion- 
able— that  is  to  say,  not  too  city-like — these 
healthful  habits  can  be  kept  up ;  the  hote 
keeper  provides  a  very  plentiful  dinner,  al 
his  assistants  work  hard  for  it,  and  after 
that  all  is  quiet ;  the  third  meal  of  the  day 
is  easy.  In  the  middle,  southern  and  west 
ern  states  it  is  called  supper ;  in  the  north 
ern  section  and  in  Canada  it  is  called  tea 
In  a  great  many  hotels  which  make  ligh 


of  this  meal  the  bill  of  fare  is  headed  "Tea 
Dard,''  and  the  guests  are  not  encouraged 
:o  expect  much  from  it.  Before  the  rail- 
roads had  spread  all  over  the  country  it 
used  to  be  a  saying  "the  pastry  cook  makes 
the  supper,"  which  meant  that  hot-breads, 
cakes  and  toast  and,  perhaps,  baked  pota- 
toes were  all  that  would  be  especially 
cooked ;  cold  meats,  stewed  fruit,  coffee, 
tea  and  milk  serving  to  complete  the  meal. 
Hotel  proprietors  used  to  be  divided  in  two 
classes :  those  who  gave  hot  beefsteak  for 
upper  and  those  who  did  not,  and  there 
was  a  subdivision  of  those  who  gave  hot 
beefsteak  every  night  except  Sunday  and 
those  who  gave  it  every  night  in  the  year, 
Sunday  making  no  difference.  The  only 
other  hot  dish  allowed  in  the  beefsteak 
houses  was  boiled  salt  mackerel.  But  there 
was  great  choice  of  breads,  rolls,  rusks, 
coffee  cakes,  coiled  buns,  corn-bread,  muf- 
fins, ginger-bread,  buttermilk,  biscuits, 
beaten  biscuits,  waffles,  batter  cakes,  toast 
and  cold  bread  of  several  varieties. 

One  reason  why  the  hotel  supper  has 
changed  from  the  old  simple  style  is  found 
in  the  arrival  of  railroad  trains  at  supper 
time;  the  travelers  coming  to  the  hotel 
must  have  a  good  meal,  and  the  supper 
bill  is  almost  equal  to  the  breakfast  bill 
shown  a  little  way  back.  The  broiled  steak 
and  boiled  mackerel  are  found  there  as  of 
old,  but  in  addition  there  are  chops  and 
cutlets,  fried  fresh  fish,  spare-ribs,  eggs, 
oysters,  chicken — more  things  than  we 
care  to  enumerate.  Another  cause  is  the 
desire  of  a  few  in  almost  every  town  to 
dine  at  supper  time  instead  of  mid-day, 
when  the  hotel  keeper,  not  caring  to  change 
his  hours  to  please  a  few,  sets  out  a  supper 
bounteous  enough  to  allow  them  to  call  it 
dinner  if  they  please.  The  annexed 
example  is  the  very  moderate  bill  of  fare 
of  a  very  large  hotel  which  is  in  exactly 
the  above  described  position,  the  regular 
dinner  being  served  at  from  one  to  three 
and  no  dinner  in  the  evening,  unless  spe- 
cial for  a  party.  This  is,  as  far  as  it  goes, 
an  excellent  pattern,  the  better  because  it 
allows  so  few  varieties  of  hot  meats. 


74 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


SUPPER. 

Vienna  Coffee  Chocolate 

Japan  and  Gunpowder  Tea 

Sweet  Milk 

French  Rolls  Johnny  Cake 

Saratoga  Rolls 
Graham,  Rye  and  Wheat  Bread 

Broiled  Sirloin  Steak 
Fried  Black  Fish 

Eggs — Boiled,   Fried,  Shirred,   Scrambled 

Omelettes  Plain,  with  Parsley,  Onions 

Tomatoes  or  Ham 

French  Fried  Potatoes 

Saratoga  Chips  Baked  Irish  Potatoes 

Pearl  Grits 

Cold  Roast  Beef  Cold  Roast  Mutton 

Cold  Corned  Beef  Cold  Smoked  Tongue 

Cold  Boiled  Ham 


Beet  and  Cabbage  Salad 


Potato  Salai 


Assorted  Small  Cakes 
Frozen  Tapioca  Custard 

Articles  taken  or  sent  from  the  table,  and  dishes  or- 
dered not  on  this  Bill  of  Fare,  -will  posi- 
tively be  charged  for  extra. 

RISING   EQUAL   TO   THE   EMERGENCY. 

For  a  hotel  in  a  large  and  growing  city, 
where  bankers  and  merchants  who  would 
like  dinner  to  be  In  the  evening  if  it  were 
convenient,  are  numerous  among  the 
guests,  and  where  the  trains  bring  many 
passengers;  also  at  those  resorts  where 
many  people  of  fashion  contend  in  favor  of 
the  late  dinner,  the  happiest  combination 
of  a  supper  with  some  dinner  dishes  added 
is  this  in  practice  at  the  hotel  named  below. 
It  is  the  conception  of  the  accomplished 
steward  of  that  house,  Mr.  George  Fulwell, 
who  is  a  specialist  in  bills  of  fare,  taking  as 
much  pleasure  in  the  development  of  ideas 
in  that  particular  line  as  some  men  do  in 
producing  a  new  variety  of  fruit  and  others 
do  in  carrying  off  the  honors  at  the  exhib- 
itions; but  he  has  paid  attention  to  this 
branch  and  knows  how  to  put  his  practical 
knowledge  of  jthe  steward's  business  to 
account  in  suiting  the  tastes  and  conveni- 
ence of  all  the  patrons  of  the  hotel  alike. 


PEABODT    HOTEL, 
MEMPHIS,  TRNN. 

SUPPER. 

Cerealine  Porridge 

ENTREES— Broiled  Veal  Chops 

Stewed  Turkey  Giblets,  with  Peas 
Ragout  of  Mutton,  with  Tomatoes 

Blanquette  of  Rabbit,  Milanaise 

Fried  Codfish  Balli 

COLD— Roast  Beef  Roast  Duck 

Venison  Salad 

EGGS— Shirred  Boiled  Scrambled 

Omelets,  with  fine  herbs 

POTATOES— Baked  Saratoga  Chips 

German  Fried 

BREAD,  ETC.— French    Cream     Graham    Plain 

Vienna  Rolls        Tea  Biscuits        Toast 

Rye  Griddle  Cakes 

SYRUPS— Maple  White  Rock 

New  Orleans  Molasses 

Coffee  Tea  Milk 

Preserved  Cranberries  and  Assorted  Cakes 


.  HOURS  FOR  MEALS. 
Breakfast,  7-11.  Dinner,  1-4.  Supper,  6-9. 

SUNDAY. 
Breakfast,  7.30-11.      Dinner,  1.30-4.      Supper,  6-9. 

CHILDREN   AND   NURSES. 

Breakfast,  7.  Dinner,  i.          Supper,  6. 

Tuesday,  January  3,  iS8S. 


SUPPER. 


Oat  Meal  Porridge 
OYSTERS— Stewed          Fried 

ENTREES— Broiled  Pig's  Feet 

Fried  Veal  Cutlets,  Robert  Sauce 

Stewed  Kidneys,  Madeira  Sauce 

Braised  Beef,  with  Mushroomf 

COLD— Venison  Pork 

Mutton  Salmon  Salad 


POTATOES— Baked  Hollandaise 

Saratoga  Chips 

BREAD,  ETC.— French    Graham    Cream     Plain 

Finger  Rolls  Currant  Coiled  Buns 

Toast  Flannel  Griddle  Cakes 


SYRUPS— Maple         White  Rock 

New  Orleans  Molasses 


Coffee 


Tea 


Milk 


Canned  California  Cherries  and  Assorted  Cake* 
Wednesday,  January  4,  :888. 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


75 


Two  of  these  bills  of  succeeding  dates 
are  printed  to  show  where  the  changes 
come  in.  It  will  be  observed  that  this  is 
far  in  advance  of  the  regular  stock  bill  of 
fare,  in  being  a  fresh  composition  printed 
daily  and  changed  in  nearly  every  partic- 
ular, yet  without  depriving  the  guests  of 
their  accustomed  favorite  dishes ;  the  hotel 
does  not  abandon  the  mid-day  dinner 
which  the  greater  number  of  people  like 
best,  but  changes  the  make-up  of  the  sup- 
per without  adding  to  the  number  of  dishes 
so  that  they  can  dine  at  night  who  wish  to 
do  so.  There  is  no  beefsteak,  therefore 
fewer  loins  of  beef  to  cut  up ;  and  no  soup 
to  be  re-christened  from  a  mid-day  lunch, 
but  there  are  eggs  one  evening  and  oysters 
the  next ;  the  potatoes,  breads,  cold  meats 
and  supper  fruit  are  all  changed  about,  just 
enough  to  give  freshness  and  variety  with- 
out depriving  any  person  of  the  regular 
diet  of  rolls,  baked  potatoes  or  batter  cakes. 
In  those  hotels  where  the  dinner  hour  is 
changed  to  evening  the  greatest  discontent 
is  occasioned  by  the  disappearance  from  the 
menu  of  h  t  rolls  and  biscuits,  fried  pota- 
oes  and  batter  cakes,  and,  be  the  dinner 
never  so  plentiful,  nothing  that  can  be  of- 
fered can  quite  make  up  the  loss  to  those 
who  have  been  in  the  habit  of  eating  and 
enjoying  those  popular  articles  of  diet  for 
supper  all  their  life.  The  new  form  of  bill 
under  consideration  appears  to  be  a  compro- 
mise for  all  parties.  A  compromise  used  to 
be  thought  a  good  thing  in  the  time  of  the 
great  Henry  Clay,  and  a  compromise  at  one 
time  was  thought  to  be  all  that  was  needed 
to  avert  the  war  of  secession ;  this  com- 
promise bill  of  Mr.  Fulwell's  by  a  parity  of 
reasoning  ought  certainly  to  be  effective  in 
keeping  the  peace  between  the  early  and 
late  dinner  factions,  even  in  a  growing  com- 
mercial city  like  Memphis.  "Back  num- 
bers" of  these  bills  (for  the  system  has  been 
in  satisfactory  operation  for  several  months) 
show  variations  in  the  plan  of  this  expert, 
whose  efforts  to  rise  above  the  commons 
place  are  worthy  of  re-cognition  especially 
in  this  land  where  gastronomical  education 
is  at  present  at  a  low  stage  and  teachers  are 
few.  One  sample  more  is  inserted  here  with 
very  good  will  towards  the  author: 


SUPPER. 


Tuesday,  September  6,  1887. 

Rolled  Oats  Porridge 
OYSTERS— Fried 


Stewed 


Liver,  with  Breakfast  Bacon 


BROILED— 
Pig's  Feet 


FRIED— Croquettes  of  Veal,  French  Peas 

MISCELLAN  EOUS— 

Braised  Beef,  with  Vegetables 
Boiled  Salt  Mackerel  Welsh  Rare -Bit 


COLD— Roast  Beef      Roast  Veal       Chipped  Beef 
Roast  Chicken         Corned  Beef 


Italian  Salad 


Sardines  in  Mustard 


POTATOES— Baked    Saratoga  Chips    Provencal* 

BREAD,  ETC.— French,  Graham,  Vienna,  Cream 

and  Plain  Bread 

Vienna  Saltz  Kipfel  Rolls        Cream  Scones 
Toast        Flemish  Gridle  Cakes 


SYRUPS—  Maple  White  Rock 

New  Orleans  Molasses 


Coffee         Chocalate 


Tea 


Milk 


French  Prunes  and  Assorted  Cakes 


PORRIDGE  DISHES  AVAILABLE  FOR  SUPPER 
AND   BREAKFAST. 

Cornmeal  Mush. 
Shredded  Maize  Porridge. 
Rolled  Oat.  Porridge. 
Cracked  Wheat  Porridge. 
Rolled  Avena  Porridge. 
Cracked  Wheat  with  Cream. 
Cerealine  Porridge. 
Farina  Mush  and  Milk. 
Home-made  Hominy. 
Wheaten  Grits. 
Pearl  Grits. 
Stewed  Wheat. 
Steamed  Rice. 
Apple  Tapioca  and  Cream. 
Cracked  Wheat  with  Milk. 
Oatmeal  with  Milk. 
Oatmeal  Porridge. 
Mush  with  Milk. 
Graham  Mush. 
Oatmeal  with  Cream. 
Graham  Farina  Porridge. 
Hominy  Grits  and  Cream. 
Rice  Grits  and  Milk. 
Wheat  Flakes  with  Cream. 
Large  Hominy  and  Milk. 
English  Furmety. 
Cream  Sago. 
Manioca  Porridge. 


[A  condensed  description  of  the  composition 
of  every  dish  in  these  lists,  'which  is  not  suffi- 
ciently apparent  by  its  name,  will  be  found 
in  the  Dictionary  of  Dishes,  soon  to  follow.] 


76 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


FISH     ENTREES     AVAILABLE     FOR     SUPPER 
AND   BREAKFAST. 

Broiled  and  Fried  Fish  of  all  Kinds. 

Cutlets  of  Black  Bass,  Genoise  Sauce. 

Salmon  Steak,  Sicilian  Sauce. 

Fillets  of  Whitefish,  Remoulade  Sauce. 

Fondue  of  Fish. 

Scalloped  Fish. 

Panned  Perch  with  Bacon. 

Canned  Salmon. 

Smoked  Bluefish,  Boiled. 

Spanish  Mackerel,  a  la  Maitre  d'HOtel. 

Codfish  Balls. 

Codfish  Cakes. 

Picked-up  Fish  in  Cream. 

Mackerel  in  Tomato  Sauce. 

Sardines  in  Mustard. 

Sardines,  TruSes. 

Barbecued  Redfish. 

Baltimore  Roe  Herring. 

Salt  Codfish  in  Cream. 

Codfish  Steak. 

Codfish  Hash. 

Broiled  Salt  Mackerel. 

Redfish  Courtbouillon. 

Oregon  Salmon. 

Mullet  Roes,  Fried. 

Smoked  Salmon. 

Smoked  Halibut. 

Smoked  Haddock. 

Boiled  Salt  Mackerel. 

Smoked  Herring. 

Trout  Courtbouillon. 

Salmon  with  Parsley  and  Butter. 

Fillets  of  Soles,  k  la  Maitre  d'Hdtel. 

Baked  Mullet,  Fine  Herbs. 

Baked  Whitefish. 

Broiled  Florida  Trout. 

Broiled  Pompano. 

Codfish  Tongues  on  Toast. 

Fresh  Shrimps. 

Potted  Shrimps. 

Buttered  Shrimps. 

Curried  Shrimps. 

Curried  Lobster. 

Anchovy  Cakes. 

Shrimp  Omelette. 

Potted  Lobster  on  Toast. 

Sardines  and  Watercress. 

Scalloped  Codfish. 

Smoked  Finnan  Haddock. 

Fried  Slices  of  Cod. 

Anchovy  Toast. 

Hot  Boiled  Crab. 

Sar'dines  on  Toast. 

Shrimp  Pie. 

Shrimp  Patt  es. 

Broiled  English  Bloaters. 

Curri°d  Oysters. 

Fish  Quenelles. 

Fish  Croquettes. 

Lobster  Cutlets. 

Fresh  Fish  in  Cream. 

Fish  Flakes,  a  la  Bechamel. 


Boiled  Codfish  Palates. 

Curried  Sardines. 

Bloaters  in  Batter. 

Shrimps  and  Boiled  Rice. 

Scalloped  Lobster. 

Fresh  Herrings  Stuffed. 

Broiled  Kippered  Salmon. 

Salmon  and  Macaroni. 

Stewed  Mackerel. 

Lobster  Rissoles. 

Herring  Roe  and  Mushrooms. 

Lobster  Creams. 

Dressed  Crab. 

Anchovy  Toast  with  Egg. 

Sardines  en  Caisse. 

Lobster  a  la  Creme. 

Canapes  of  Sardines. 

Scalloped  Shrimps. 

Sardine  Sandwiches. 

Shrimp  Canapes. 

\Otlier  fish  dishes  -with  description  of  all 
can  be  found  in  the  Dictionary  of  Dishes 
further  <?#.] 

OYSTER  ENTREES  AVAILABLE  FOR  SUPPER 
AND   BREAKFAST. 

Fried  Oysters. 
Stewed  Oysters. 
Oysters  with  Macaroni. 
Oysters  in  Small  Loaves. 
Oyster  Toast. 
Steamed  Oysters. 
Oyster  Patties. 
Vol  an  Vents  of  Oysters. 
Oysters  in  Croustades. 
Scalloped  Oysters. 
Oysters  a  1'Indienne. 
Oyster  Kromeskies 
Oysters  a  la  Brochette. 
Oyster  Omelets. 
Oysters  en  Caisse. 
Broiled  Oysters. 
Oyster  Rissoles. 
Oyster,  Fritters. 
Oysters  in  Wafer  Shells. 
Oysters  Broiled  in  Bacon. 
Oyster  Chowder. 
Oysters  Fried  in  Batter. 

Clams  in  same  ways  as  oysters. 
Scallops  in  same  ways  as  oysters. 

EGG      ENTRIES     AVAILABLE      FOR     SL  PPER 
AND    BREAKFAST. 

Eggs  in  about  one  hundred  ways  are 
available,  for  which  see  the  dictionary  of 
dishes  further  on. 


It  is  unnecessary  to  follow  further  with 
such  lists,  as  all  the  forms  of  meat  entrees 
and  ways  of  cooking  potatoes  are  already 
familiar  to  those  who  prepare  the  dinner 
bills  of  fare.  The  foregoing  lists  are  in- 
tended to  help  those  who  have  to  make 
new  breakfast  and  supper  bills  daily,  which 
is  comparatively  new  business. 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


SZEOOZDsTID. 


RESTAURANT   STEWARDING 

COMPRISING  A   SURVEY  OF  VARIOUS  STYLES  OF 

RESTAURANTS  AND  THEIR  METHODS. 
CLUB  STEWARDING  AND  CATERING, 

PUBLIC  PARTY  CATERING,  BALL  SUPPERS, 

BASE  BALL  LUNCHES,  HOTEL  BANQUETS,  ETC 

HOW  TO  PREPARE  AND  HOW  TO  SERVE  THEM;  WITH* NUMEROUS 

PATTERN  BILLS  OF  FARE  CARRIED  OUT  TO 

QUANTITIES,  COST  AND  PRICE 

PER  HEAD. 


BY 

JESSUP  WHITEHEAD. 


CHICAGO. 

1899. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress  in  the  Office  of  the  Librarian,  at  Washington,  bjr 
JESSUP  WHITEHEAD,  1887  and  1889. — All  rights  reserved. 


RESTAURANT  STEWARDING. 


"The  difference  between  hotel  and  res- 
taurant, did  you  ask?  Oh,  everbody  knows 
that.  The  difference  is — well,  let's  see — 
the  difference  is,  at  a  restaurant  you  can 
get  your  meals  any  time  you  want,  and  in 
a  hotel  you  can't,  because  they  close  their 
doors.  The  restaurant  man  is  glad  to  see 
you  come  in  at  any  hour  of  the  day  or 
night,  while  in  the  hotels  they  look  at  a 
fellow  like  he  had  felonious  intentions  if 
he  tries  to  get  in  to  eat  after  their  time  is 
up." 

Good  enough  as  far  as  it  goes,  but  if  we 
think  it  over  a  little  we  shall  find  greater 
differences  than  that. 

Hotel-keeping  is  good  housekeeping  on 
a  magnificent  scale;  restaurant- keeping  is 
merchandizing  in  meat  and  drink.  The 
hotel  Boniface  keeps  a  good  house;  the 
restaurateur  has  command  of  the  markets. 
The  hotel-keeper  takes  care  of  people; 
the  restaurateur  attends  upon  people  who 
try  to  take  care  of  themselves.  The  hotel- 
keeper  provides  a  home  for  a  number  sub- 
ject to  rules;  the  restaurateur  provides  a 
refuge  for  those  who  know  no  rules  or  are 
ruled  out.  The  hotel-keeper  thinks  the 
most  of  his  customers  in  the  aggregate  and 
will  not  change  his  ways  to  suit  different 
individuals;  the  restaurateur  thinks  most 
of  the  individuals  and  is  not  disturbed  if 
their  tastes  differ  to  wide  extremes.  The 
hotel-keeper  provides  meals  for  numbers 
by  wholesale  methods,  such  as  would  cost 
the  individual  three  or  four  times  as  much 
to  provide  singly  for  himself;  the  restaura- 
teur provides  by  retail  methods  the  separ- 
ate meals  as  ordered  and  charges  for  his 
services.  The  hotel-keeper  thinks  and 
manages  for  all;  the  restaurateur  invites 
each  one  to  think  and  manage  for  himself 
and  adapts  his  establishment  to  meet  every 
caprice. 

The  model  restaurant  keeper  stocks  up 
like  a  merchant  with  everything  that  will 
sell;  secures  the  latest  novelties  like  a 
merchant ;  displays  his  goods  like  a  mer- 


chant; advertises  like  a  merchant ;  makes 
his  prices  according  to  the  demand ;  makes 
his  money  out  of  the  luxuries  rather  than 
the  necessities  of  his  customers. 

When  the  hotel  steward  goes  to  market 
and  finds  some  desirable  thing,  the  question 
with  him  is  "  Will  it  pay?  "  The  restaurant 
steward  asks  himself,  "  Will  it  sell ? "  The 
first  must  limit  his  purchases  within  the 
bounds  of  the  price  per  day  charged  by  his 
house;  the  other  must  judge  whether  any 
among  the  known  or  probable  patrons  of 
his  restaurant  will  buy  the  fresh  delicacy 
at  the  price  demanded.  The  hotel  bill  of 
fare  shows  how  much  can  be  done  for  a 
certain  fixed  price  per  head ;  the  restaurant 
carte  shows  what  there  is  in  market,  and, 
consequently,  in  the  restaurant  larder,  and 
what  it  will  cost  if  ordered. 


The  hotel  steward  hiring  hands  expects 
to  have  but  one  set  for  the  day ;  only  one 
continuous  watch.  He  hires  them  for 
long  days,  not  comparable  with  the  days 
of  other  classes  of  workers,  if  counted  in 
hours,  yet  broken  up  and  made  easy  by 
intervals  between  meals.  He  has  times  to 
close  his  doors  and  give  most  or  all  of  the 
hands  a  recess.  The  restaurant  steward 
hires  them  for  so  many  hours  continuous 
work  without  breaks  or  intervals;  and 
when  the  clock  strikes  the  watch  on  duty 
stops  work  and  the  next  watch  takes  hold 
as  promptly  as  in  a  factory;  he  strives, 
therefore,  to  apportion  the  workers  to  the 
duties  to  be  performed  in  such  a  way  that 
their  time  will  be  fully  employed  during 
all  the  hours  he  pays  them  for.  He  rarely 
closes  his  doors  at  all.  The  restaurant 
meals  are  never  over,  but  always  begin- 
ning. The  most  unseasonable  hours  are 
often  the  best  for  business.  When  the 
hotel  is  asleep  and  the  theatre  is  over  the 
restaurant  is  most  awake,  and  the  fresh 
hands  newly  come  on  watch  then  render 
their  best  work  in  cooking  and  service. 


(TT) 


78 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


The  restaurant  exists  for  odd  times, 
unseasonable  hours ;  to  oe  outside  of  com- 
mon rules  and  habits;  to  meet  sudden 
emergencies,  unusual  demands,  transitory 
fancies  and  pacing  fashions.  The  success- 
ful restaurateur  is  like  a  courtier,  making 
cash  customer  in  turn  think  he  is  the  only 
one  that  really  knows  how  to  order  a  din- 
ner, or  has  a  true  appreciation  of  what  is 
good  and  en  regie.  The  successful  steward 
is  one  who  can  carry  a  stock  so  varied, 
even  of  perishables,  that  he  can  never  be 
taken  unawares  by  the  most  unexpected 
orders,  and  who  yet  loses  the  least  through 
the  spoiling  of  provisions. 


The  best  cooks,  probably,  are  hotel  cooks 
who  have  had  a  previous  restaurant  train- 
ing. Hotel  cooks  attain  their  greatest  ex- 
ce'lence  in  that  most  valuable  knowledge 
of  cookery  which  the  French  common 
people  are  credited  with  possessing  as  a 
birthright,  which  Alexis  Soyer  gave  such 
a  brilliant  example  of  when  he  showed  the 
British  soldiers  in  the  Crimea  how  to  take 
the  rations  which  they  were  starving  and 
dying  upon  and  make  them  into  palatable 
and  nutritious  soups  and  stews,  such  as 
their  French  neighbors  and  allies  were 
concocting  so  well  from  the  same  poor 
supplies.  Hotel  cooks  learn  good  manage- 
ment; they  learn  the  economies;  to  make 
much  of  little;  to  suit  the  average  greatest 
number ;  but  the  restaurant  cooks  are  the 
more  ornamental  in  their  work ;  they  must 
learn  styles  and  fancy  touches  and  take 
instructions  from  many  critical  or  whim- 
sical customers.  The  individual  style  ser- 
vice of  hotel  dinners  in-  small  dishes  has  a 
certain  prettiness  of  its  own  and  a  propri- 
etary exclusiveness  about  it  which  delights 
many,  but  the  restaurant  entire  dishes  for 
parties  of  four,  six  or  eight  give  the  cooks 
room  and  opportunities  for  styles  of  decor- 
ation which  untraveled  hotel  cooks  have 
no  inkling  of.  A  restaurant  cook  having 
to  serve  even  so  common  an  order  as  saus- 
age and  mashed  potatoes  for  two,  price  a 
few  cents,  will  place  four  separate,  smooth 
spoonfuls  of  potato  cross-fashion  in  the 


dish,  a  brown  fried  sausage  pressed  half- 
way in  the  top  of  each  and  gravy  over  all, 
and  sends  in  an  attractive  dish  with  a 
shape  to  it,  when  in  inexperienced  hands  it 
would  be  nothin.-,  but  potato  in  one  dish, 
sausage  in  another,  common  and  unnotice- 
able;  alike  in  the  commonest  boarding 
house  and  the  best  hotel.  From  such 
simples  the  restaurant  cook's  work  rises  to 
whole  dishes  of  fish,  fowl  and  game,  with 
foreign  names,  styles  and  ornamental 
accessories.  At  the  same  time  the  restau- 
rant cook  has  an  expensive  liking  for  large 
portions,  choice  cuts,  whole  steaks,  whole 
fishes,  plentiful  wines  to  stew  in  and  the 
free  use  of  imported  rarities  encouraged  by 
a  class  of  customers  who  pay  a  dollar  or 
several  dollars  for  a  single  dish,  but  which 
he  must  modify  to  some  extent  in  the 
hotel  according  to  its  style  and  prices. 


The  hotel  headwaiter  having  a  party  or 
a  family  whom  he  desires  to  have  particu- 
larly well  served,  after  locating  them  at  the 
pleasantest  table,  looks  around  among  his 
wai-ers  for  one  who  has  experience  in  a 
restaurant.  The  restaurant  waiter  may 
seem  slow  and  ine  fficient  amongst  a  crowd, 
but  he  is  the  one  they  want  when  minute 
personal  attentions  are  required;  the  one 
who  never  forgets ;  is  never  in  a  hurry  to 
get  away ;  neither  hears  nor  sees  anything 
at  his  lable  except  his  own  duties.  Res- 
taurant training  makes  that  sort  of  waiter. 


But  as  everybody  knows,  they  are  not 
all  restaurants  that  are  called  by  that 
name.  The  real  restaurants  of  the  original 
Parisian  sort  are  very  few.  Some,  even 
of  the  most  famous  of  modern  French 
establishments  have  closed  up  within  the 
last  few  years.  Some  writers  account  for 
the  decrease  by  saying  the  rising  genera- 
tion is  becoming  more  mercenary  and  pre- 
fers the  table  d'hote  with  its  fixed  price  for 
dinner  or  supper  to  the  gilt-edged  restau- 
rant with  its  fancy  prices  and  the  latter 
falls  into  decline  through  the  growth  of 
economical  tendencies.  However,  the  or- 
iginal pattern  of  restaurant  will  still  exist, 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


few  but  remarkable,  and  there  are  modifi- 
cations of  it  growing  everywhere  in  in- 
creasing numbers. 

THE    RISE    OF    THE     RESTAURANT. 

The  rise  of  the  restaurant  is  nearly  al- 
ways alike — semi-accidental.  It  might 
seem  a  curious  line  of  argument  to  pursue, 
but  it  is  more  than  likely  it  could  be  proven 
that  of  those  who  >'open  a  restaurant" 
nineteen  out  of  twenty  fail.  There  seems 
to  be  a  special  adaptation  to  the  business 
required,  a  love  of  it,  and  a  kind  of  talent 
not  often  to  be  had  for  money.  The  first 
great  Parisian  restaurants,  which  attracted 
world-wide  notice  and  imitators  in  all 
countries  have  been  n  entioned  so  often — 
Beauvilliers' — Very's — Robert's — that  one 
is  loth  to  touch  again  upon  a  subject  so 
old,  yet  all  the  mention  is  of  them  in  their 
prime,  in  their  success;  nobody  knows 
how  they  began,  nor  by  what  accident  of 
patronage  their  originators  were  started. 
Here  is  a  modern,  a  very  recent  instance, 
which  is  an  illustration  that  will  suit  nearly 
every  case  and  shows  that  restaurateurs 
are  "born,  not  made."  It  is  of  one  Joseph 
— he  has  another  name,  but  as  Joseph  only 
he  is  noted  in  the  papeis — who  had  a  small 
restaurant  somewhere  in  Paris,  "Joseph's 
restaurant,"  and  became  the  favorite  of  an 
appreciative  few.  He  had  some  specialties, 
some  special  ways  of  pleasing  his  patrons 
which  we  may  not  know — they  were  his 
special  points  of  adaptation  which  made  him 
successful  and,  perhaps,  were  generally  of 
too  small  dimensions  to  be  described,  they 
were  characteristics.  But  one  point  was 
of  sufficient  saliency  to  be  taken  hold  of; 
something  he  did  which  became  the  talk 
of  gastronomical  Paris.  What  was  it? 
What  could  one  obscure  man  in  a  small 
restaurant  do  that  made  all  the  gilded  and 
glittering  establishments  of  old  standing 
envious?  He  served  as  nobody  else  could, 
Canard  Saavage,  Sauce  au  Sang — WTild 
Duck  with  Blood  Sauce — roast  wild  duck 
with  its  natural  gravy.  It  is  hard  to  avoid 
writing  cynically  about  such  a  matter,  but 
we  will  try.  Some  of  these  things  which 


catch  the  passing  fashion  are  so  exceed- 
ing small,  the  admiration  of  them  seems 
asinine;  yet  somebody  must  uphold  and 
magnify  them — the  restaurateur  must.  To 
tell  how  it  was  done  is  but  a  parody  on 
another  old  story  of  how  some  wondrous 
cook  electrified  a  court  and  charmed  all 
Christendom  by  the  genius  shown  in  cook- 
ing two  beefsteaks  and  squeezing  the  gravy 
out  of  one  to  pour  over  the  other  which 
was  for  the  prince.  M.  Joseph  roasted  his 
ducks  very  rare,  then  cut  the  breasts  in 
slices  upon  a  chafing  dish  (a  metal  dish 
with  an  alcohol  lamp  under,  to  keep  it  at 
cooking  heat),  the  gravy  from  the  rare- 
cooked  slices  flowing  freely.  All  the  rest 
of  the  carcass  he  squeezed  dry  to  obtain 
the  juice  for  the  slices  of  breast  of  duck, 
and  he  let  all  finish  cooking  in  the  dish, 
the  gravy  of  course  thickening  itself,  and 
served  the  meat  so  in  its  own  juices.  It 
may  be  he  added  flavorings  and  seasonings, 
the  reporters  do  not  say,  and  if  so  they 
were  but  incidental.  Canard  Sauvage^ 
Sauce  au  Sang  was  the  dish.  And  let  the 
host  of  carvers  of  "Roast  Beef  Rare"  at 
the  merchants'  lunch  houses,  chop  houses, 
restaurants,  dining  rooms,  cafes  and  hotels 
remember  it  when  they  see  the  "natural 
gravy"  flow  into  the  dish  of  the  hot  carv- 
ing table  and  cook  and  become  thick  there 
— that  is  the  sauce  au  sang,  the  blood  gravy 
which,  when  drawn  from  wild  ducks,  a 
large  number  of  Parisian  gourmets  went 
into  ecstacies  over  and  made  M.  Joseph 
famous.  Next,  a  wealthy  American — one 
of  the  very  wealthiest — was  taken  by  a 
party  of  friends  to  M.  Joseph's,  not  ne- 
cessarily to  partake  of  canard  sauvage,  but 
to  patronize  the  pet  restaurateur  of  the 
day,  and  they  commissioned  him  to  prepare 
a  dinner  for  them  of  his  own  choosing, 
which  he  did ;  a  thoroughly  simple  dinner 
of  roast  quail  and  a  few  other  viands,  with 
which  they  were  so  delighted — because  it 
was  prepared  by  the  only  M.  Joseph — that 
they  ordered  the  same  for  the  next  day  and 
for  several  succeeding  days.  After  they 
were  gone  their  ways  a  great  Parisian  c&f6 
secured  the  services  of  M.  Joseph,  just  as 


80 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


an  operatic  manager  secures  a  star  per- 
former, and  he  officiated  at  a  silver  chafing 
dish  with  a  silver  duck-squeezer;  and,  later 
and  latest,  he  was  enticed  away  from  the 
cafe*  by  the  very  wealthy  citizen  of  the 
United  States  by  the  offer  of  a  very  large 
salary,  and  is  now  in  this  country  in  pri- 
vate service.  Such  is,  in  nearly  every  case, 
the  history  of  the  rise  of  the  high-priced, 
fashionable  restaurant — there  is  a  natural 
adaptation  of  a  cook  and  an  enthusiastic 
love  of  his  profession ;  then  the  patronage  of 
wealthy  admirers  and  it  is  an  accomplished 
fact.  But  where  is  the  restaurant  in  the 
case  of  M.  Joseph?  Most  probably  it  is 
coming.  We  are  not  writing  of  the  res- 
taurant of  the  last  century.  M.  Joseph  is 
of  to-day ;  his  restaurant  may  come  to- 
morrow. Some  morning  the  papers  will 
say :  "Delmonico  is  likely  to  meet  with  a 
formidable  competitor  shortly,  in  a  magni- 
ficent restaurant  after  the  Parisian  fashion, 
to  be  opened  by  the  $10,000 M.Joseph,  the 
famous  ex-chef  to  Mr.  Vanderbilt,"  etc., 
etc.  They  all  aspire  to  it.  Did  not  Presi- 
dent Arthur's  chef  open  a  restaurant? 
Did  not  Presidents  Hayes'  and  Garfield's 
steward  open  a  restaurant?  What  became 
of  them  afterwards  does  not  belong  to  the 
story.  When  the  hero  and  heroine  of  a 
novel  get  married  the  interest  ceases  and 
the  story  ends.  Likewise,  every  man  thinks 
to  get  to  keeping  a  high-class  restaurant 
is  heaven — until  he  has  a  chance  to  try  it. 

A   TYPICAL   AMERICAN    RESTAURATEUR. 

As  true  a  type  as  flhe  French  M.  Joseph 
of  the  restaurateur,  as  distinguished  from 
the  hotel  keeper  by  all  the  traits  we  have 
already  enumerated  is  the  American,  Mr. 
Taft,  pictured  below.  He  must  indeed  be 
an  enthusiast,  as  the  correspondents  all 
agree  in  calling  him,  to  carry  his  hobby  of 
keeping  everything  that  can  be  called  for 
always  on  hand  to  such  a  successful  extent 
as  is  described.  Says  one,  recounting  a 
visit  to  the  place : 

"Taft's  is  a  great  institution,  and  the 
person  who  visits  Boston  and  does  not  go 
there  has  seen,  or  rather  eaten,  nothing. 


The  fish  dinners  gotten  up  at  that  famous 
resort  are  not  equalled,  probably,  anywhere 
in  the  world.  Mr.  Taft  is  an  old  gentle- 
man of  over  seventy,  thin  and  tall  as  a  rail, 
with  snow-white  hair.  He  is  the  greatest 
enthusiast  we  ever  saw.  It  is  a  sight  to 
see  him  bring  in  dish  after  dish,  every  one 
prepared  under  his  personal  superintend- 
ence, and  carry  it  around  the  table  for  the 
inspection  of  every  guest.  His  face  is  all 
aglow  with  pride  and  excitement  and  his 
features  plainly  say:  'What  do  you  think 
oftht?  Isn't  it  magnificent?'  We  asked 
him  were  he  learned  to  cook.  'My  mother 
chucked  me  under  the  kitchen  table  when 
I  was  three  weeks  old  and  there  I  stayed,' 
was  his  answer;  and  we  believe  him.  Din- 
ners of  twenty  and  more  courses  are  com- 
mon occurrences'  here,  and  the  charges  are 
not  exorbitant.  The  old  gentleman  was 
asked  why  he  brought  the  'turbot,'  which 
he  claims  is  the  finest  fish,  in  the  world, 
first  on  the  table.  'Ah,'  he  replied,  'the 
best,  to  be  fully  appreciated,  must  always 
be  eaten  when  the  appetite  is  keenest ;  then 
you  relish  it  immensely.'  Logic  which 
certainly  proved  correct  in  our  case,  for  we 
thought  that  turbot  the  finest  thing  we 
had  ever  tasted." 

Taft  has  a  printed  bill  of  fare  or  card  of 
what  can  be  had  at  his  establishment,  in 
which  it  is  his  pride  to  enumerate  nearly 
all  the  edible  birds  and  fishes,  ending  with 
humming  birds  served  in  nut  shells.  The 
list  has  been  printed  in  the  newspapers  as 
a  curiosity  frequently.  It  would  be  impos- 
sible to  give  a  more  graphic  and  interest- 
ing account  of  the  man  and  the  place,  or 
particulars  more  readable  to  restaurateurs 
than  this  from  the  Philadelphia  Ne-vs.  It 
is  better  than  a  lecture  on  restaurant-keep- 
ing. This  writer  remarks : 

"  'Taft  does  not  serve  general  meals  as 
does  a  restaurant,' "  but  it  does  not  imply 
that  Taft's  is  not  the  truest  kind  of  a  res- 
taurant, it  is  one  devoted  to  the  specialties 
of  fish  and  game,  the  very  opposite  of  the 
table  d'hote ;  a  place  where  '  you  can  easily 
run  your  bill  up  to  forty  or  fifty  dollars' 
for  dinner. 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


81 


"  Boston  has  what  I  consider  the  greatest 
gastronomic  prize  in  the  world  in  Taft's. 
The  name  stands  for  both  the  man  and  the 
place.  I  can  truthfully  say  of  it  that  the 
bon  -civant  who  confesses  ignorance  to  his 
and  its  existence  has  no  right  to  claim 
that  he  has  lived.  Taft?  I  hear  you  say. 
I  don't  suppose  there  are  a  hundred  men 
in  Philadelphia  who  ever  heard  the  name 
before,  and  yet  it  is  the  only  place  in  the 
wide  world  where  you  can  obtain  any 
edible  fish  that  swims,  perfectly  cooked. 
Only  one  divinely  inspired  can  cook  a  fish. 
A  man  of  fair  culinary  education  can  ac- 
complish marvels  with  meats  and  vege- 
tables and  sweetmeats,  but  how  few  of 
even  our  famous  chefs  can  give  a  fish  that 
delicate  treatment  without  which  it  has  no 
temptation  for  the  educated  palate.  At 
Gloucester,  in  the  planked  shad,  we  have 
a  dish  that  should  stand  second  in  the  list 
of  piscatorial  delicacies.  The  first  place 
should  unquestionably  be  given  to  the  tur- 
bot  as  cooked  at  Taft's. 

"Taft  is  a  white-haired  octogenarian 
who  owns  a  roomy  frame  structure  on  the 
shore  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean  at  Point 
Shirley,  seven  miles  from  Boston.  I  took 
dinner  there  two  weeks  ago,  but  it  lives  in 
my  memory  as  vividly  as  though  it  were 
yesterday.  I  can  never  forget  it.  Old 
Taft  entertained  us  for  some  time  when 
we  entered  the  parlor  with  reminiscences 
of  the  famous  men  who  have  visited  his 
house.  When  Charles  Dickens  was  in 
this  country  he  and  Nathanial  Hawthorne, 
Henry  W.  Longfellow,  Charles  Sumner 
and  John  W.  Forney  frequently  sat  to- 
gether in  one  of  the  little  dining  rooms. 
Taft  takes  great  delight  in  exhibiting  the 
treasures  of  his  larder.  Men  who  have 
visited  his  house  send  him  trophies  of  the 
gun  and  rod  from  every  quarter  of  the 
globe.  I  thought  I  would  nonplus  him 
when  he  proudly  said :  '  Gentlemen,  I  can 
furnish  you  with  any  edible  fish  or  bird 
that  you  may  name.'  1  said:  '  Have  you 
any  reed  birds?"  He  looked  at  me  quiz- 
zically and  said :  «  You  are  from  Philadel- 
phia? '  I  said :  '  What  makes  you  think  so? ' 


'  Because,'  he  replied,  '  it  is  the  only  place 
in  this  country  where  you  get  reed  birds — 
except  here,'  and  he  held  up  a  bunch  of 
little  bursting  balls  of  golden  fat  —  the 
little  cherubs  that  the  Philadelphia  epicure 
bows  down  before  and  worships.  He 
showed  me  even  plump  little  humming 
birds,  each  one  snugly  packed  in  the  half 
of  an  English  walnut  shell.  But  his  dis- 
play of  fish!  It  makes  my  mouth  water  to 
simply  think  of  the  tempting  sight.  He 
had  every  finny  delicacy  I  had  ever  heard 
of  and  many  that  were  entirely  new  to 
me,  even  by  name.  '  Try  again,'  he  said 
to  me,  laughingly.  '  Perhaps  you  can 
name  a  fish  I  haven't  got.'  I  naturally 
thought  that  the  simplest  of  all,  and  yet 
one  of  the  sweetest,  would  be  forgotten  in 
this  wonderful  array,  and  so  I  said :  '  I 
want  some  Schuylkill  catfish.' 

" '  Now  I  know  you  are  from  Philadel- 
phia,' he  said,  smilingly,  as  he  reached  far 
down  in  a  big  ice  box  and  produced  a 
string  of  our  humble  '  catties.' 

"  Taft  does  not  serve  general  meals  as 
does  a  restaurant.  He  will  provide  you 
with  a  strictly  fish  dinner  or  a  strictly 
game  dinner  or  a  combination  of  both. 
For  the  fish  dinner,  which  is  really  a  cul- 
inary marvel,  he  charges  two  dollars  with- 
out wines.  For  what  he  terms  his  '  regu- 
lar' game  dinner  he  charges  three  dollars 
and  a  half,  but  if  you  wish  to  select  from 
his  larder  what  you  wish  you  can  very 
easily  run  your  bill  up  to  forty  or  fifty 
dollars,  even  though  there  are  but  three  or 
four  in  the  party.  The  dinner  I  partook 
of  was  especially  ordered,  and  was  a  com- 
bination of  both  fish  and  game.  I  want  to 
say  right  here  by  way  of  apology  for  the 
tale  I  have  to  tell  that  the  appetites  of  my- 
self and  companions  had  been  sharpened 
to  a  keen  edge  by  a  carriage  ride  of  seven 
and  a  half  miles  in  « a  nipping  and  an  eager 
air,'  salted  with  the  spray  that  the  wind 
swept  in  from  the  bosom  of  the  broad 
Atlantic. 

"  We  began  the  feast  by  each  one  con- 
suming about  fifty  steamed  clams — not  the 
tough  little  morsels  that  we  call  delicacies, 


82 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


but  the  long,  soft  shell  tid-bits,  of  which 
you  eat  only  the  sweet  morsels  at  the  end 
after  you  have  dipped  it  in  melted  butter. 
Fifty  are  looked  upon  as  constituting  only 
a  moderate  appetizer.  Each  dish  that  fol- 
lowed this  was  labeled  by  a  small  card 
bearing  in  letters  of  gold  the  name  of  the 
subject  about  to  be  discussed  and  held  in 
place  and  aloft  by  a  toothpick  piercing 
both  the  card  and  the  fish  or  bird,  which- 
ever the  dish  happened  to  be.  The  first 
dish  proved  the  piece  de  resistance.  It  was 
a  large  turbot.  The  card  bore  this  legend : 


TAFT'S  TURBOT. 
KING  OF  THE  SEA. 


"  It  was  truly  a  beautiful  sight.  At  the 
edges  it  was  of  a  creamy  white,  that  deep- 
ened on  the  sides  into  a  golden  hue  that 
became  gradually  richer  and  richer,  until 
at  the  top  it  became  a  delicate  brown.  And 
then  what  snowy  flakes  it  broke  into  under 
the  fork  I  And  what  sweetness  when  it 
entered  the  mouth!  I  can  truthfully  say 
that  I  have  never  eaten  fish  before.  Its 
memory  haunts  me  still.  I  confess  that 
M-hen  I  had  fully  realized  the  wonder  of 
that  turbot  I  reached  over  the  table  and 
seized  that  little  card,  and  I  have  it  before 
me  now. 

"  The  next  fish  placed  before  us  was  a 
rock  cod,  which  was  excelled  in  delicacy 
and  sweetness  only  by  the  glorious  turbot, 
of  which,  by  the  way,  we  did  not  leave  one 
morsel.  Taft  accompanied  each  dish  into 
the  room  and  for  our  especial  benefit  de- 
livered a  brief  dissertation  on  its  merits. 
The  rest  of  the  banquet  consisted  solely 
of  game.  The  list  may  make  your  mouth 
water.  We  had  chicken  grouse  and  Lake 
Erie  teal,  both  the  finest  I  ever  tasted  in 
my  life;  jack  snipes,  ;  eeps — wee  litt'e  birds 
and  very  toothsome ;  reed  bids — not  equal 
to  those  of  Philadelphia;  and  last  of  all 
humming  birds  cooked  in  nut  shells.  The 
last  were  really  not  worth  eating,  being 
dry  and  tasteless.  But  I  wanted  to  say 
that  I  had  eaten  a  humming  bird,  and  now 
I  can  say  it.  Taken  altogether,  it  was  a 


banquet  fit  for  the  gods,  and  it  made  me 
feel  glad  that  I  was  permitted  to  live — and 
to  be  at  point  Shirley!" 

THE     RESTAURANT     STEWARD      AND     THE 
MARKET     MEN. 

Mr.  Taft  evidently  f  xperienced  keen  en- 
joyment in  his  avocation,  yet  it  may  be 
doubted  whether  he,  being  practically 
without  competitors,  ever  knew  the  su- 
preme exultation  of  the  city  restaurant 
steward  who  "  get's  a  scoop "  on  all  his 
rivals  in  the  business  by  securing  the 
entire  supply  of  some  coveted  delicacy  and 
compelling  the  best  patrons  of  other  estab- 
lishments to  come  to  his  place  for  it.  He 
may  have  absolutely  all  the  frogs'  legs  the 
city  contains,  and  the  blissful  knowledge 
that  no  more  can  arrive  for  a  week;  or  all 
of  the  early  chickens,  or  the  very  last 
quail  and  partridges.  And  such  being  the 
object  of  his  ambition,  he  must  think  of 
ways  to  gain  the  preferences  of  the  market 
and  commission  men,  for  if  he  fails  to 
make  friends  of  them,  unless  he  has  very 
good  private  sources  of  supply  from  out- 
side markets,  he  may  as  well  quit  the  busi- 
ness. When  a  thing  is  cheap  and  plenti- 
ful he  will  be  solicited  to  buy  even  if 
disliked  and  despised,  but  then  he  does  not 
want  it;  and  when  it  is  scarce  and  in  de- 
mand, he  may  hear  of  its  being  obtainable 
at  this  or  that  restaurant,  but  if  not  in  the 
circle  of  favorites  the  dealers  will  take 
great  pains  to  be  "  just  sold  out "  every 
time  he  tries  them.  And  still  his  favored 
rivals  are  getting  all  they  want  from  hid- 
den stores  for  days  in  succession.  Many 
a  new  restaurant  that  is  opened  with  a  dis- 
play of  gilding  and  plate  glass  fails  of  suc- 
cess through  this  unconsidered  particular 
of  not  having  a  steward  or  buyer  who  can 
secure  the  good  will  of  the  dealers  in 
specialties,  the  game  dealers,  fish  importers, 
the  merchants  who  can  always  obtain 
everything  worth  having;  not  depending 
i  upon  the  northern  markets  alone,  nor  the 
southern  markets  alone,  but  wiring  to  fifty 
places  if  necessary;  knowing-  where  the 
goods  are  to  be  found.  Without  this  com- 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


83 


mand  of  the  markets,  and  the  co-operation 
of  the  market  merx  the  restaurant  fai's 
from  inability  to  "fill  the  bill."  After 
two  or  three  disappointments  the  most 
profitable  patrons  become  chagrined  and 
pass  the  place  by  with  the  contemptuous 
remark:  "Oh,  you  can  never  find  anything 
there." 

HOW   TO  "STAND    IN1'  WITH    THE  MARKET 
MEN. 

The  surest  and  best  way  to  secure  favors 
from  the  dealers  is  to  be  in  a  measure  in- 
dependent of  them  by  opening  communi- 
cation with  the  same  sources  of  supply 
which  they  draw  from,  at  least  often 
enough  to  show  them  that  their  withhold- 
ing of  supplies  in  favor  of  old  friends  will 
not  have  the  effect  of  destroying  the  new 
restaurant,  which  may  possibly,  by  reach- 
ing out,  even  gain  advantages  over  all  the 
older  houses,  and  wake  them  up  to  a 
realizing  sense  that  they  don't  yet  own  the 
tarth.  This,  however,  is  only  possible 
with  a  command  of  capital  to  stand  occa- 
sional losses.  Some,  having  but  a  limited 
business,  can  join  another  party,  or  several 
whose  places  are  far  enough  apart  not  to 
compete,  and  import  profitably  that  which 
one  alone  could  not  afford. 

Next  best  way  to  secure  a  fair  share  and 
even  a  preference  in  what  is  going,  is  to 
pay  cash  on  the  spot.  Old  friendships  and 
well-ripened  business  relationships  may  be 
strong,  but  cash  in  hand  will  draw  the 
last  and  best  thing  from  the  darkest  back 
corner  of  the  refrigerator  when  the  other 
fellow  is  not  looking,  nevertheless. 

To  stand  well  with  the  market  men  it  is 
not  necessary  to  attempt  bribery,  or  to  buy 
favors  in  that  way.  There  is  a  good  deal 
in  having  a  pleasing  address  and  sociable 
ways,  but  there  is  a  kind  of  reciprocal 
accommodation  which  these  dealers,  being 
business  men,  appreciate  above  everything 
else — they  want  the  buying  steward  to 
help  them  out  occasionally  when  their 
enterprise  has  led  them  to  bring  on  too 
much  stock  which  threatens  to  spoil  on 
their  hands.  They  will  not  urge  the  man 


they  have  sometimes  favored  with  the 
things  that  were  scarcest  to  help  to  unload 
them  in  a  glut,  but  if  on  once  asking  he 
does  not  see  what  is  the  matter,  and  do 
what  he  can  afford  by  taking  more  or  less, 
they  are  liable  to  remember  it  against  him 
at  some  future  time  when  perhaps  they 
wil  have  the  only  basket  of  turkeys  or 
sucking  pigs  in  the  whole  city,  and  he 
wants  them  badly. 

KEEPING    PROVISIONS. 

Not  the  least  of  the  means  of  keeping 
abreast  with  the  foremost  in  the  trade  is  a 
thorough  knowledge  of  how  to  keep  pro- 
visions after  they  have  been  procured. 
The  best  restaurants  have  refrigerators  of 
special  make,  cold  rooms,  fitted  with 
drawers  and  shelves  in  which  prepared 
provisions  are  kept  awaiting  orders  to  cook 
them.  In  some  places  the  main  depend- 
ence is  upon  large  ice  boxes  containing 
broken  ice,  and  cotton  sacks  full  of  small 
quantities  of  such  things  as  are  not  injured 
by  being  kept  wet  are  buried  deep  in  the 
ice  where  they  keep  for  a  Lng  time. 

A   FIRST-CLASS    RESTAURANT    BILL    OF 
FARE. 

Regarded  as  reading  matter  a  bill  of  fare 
may  not  have  very  strong  claims  upon  the 
attention,  but  as  showing  what  need  the 
restaurateur  has  of  extensive  acquaintance 
with  the  markets  and  of  ways  and  means 
of  keeping  a  vast  number  of  articles  in 
good  condition  when  secured,  the  grand 
bill  of  fare  here  shown  must  prove  an  ob- 
ject of  lasting  interest.  Merel  y  as  a  list  of 
dishes  for  the  composition  of  bills  of  fare 
it  will  be  found  useful ;  as  a  list  of  prices 
charged  where  prices  are  the  highest  it 
will  serve  to  brace  up  the  timid  ones  who 
don't  know  how  to  charge.  Tw  .  dollars 
and  a  half,- it  must  be  admitted  is  a  good 
"  live  and  let  live  "  price  for  a  beefsteak  — 
see  the  list  of  "  Dishes  to  Order."  A  por- 
tion of  the  price  of  every  dish  in  this  place 
was  needed,  however,  to  pay  for  the  music 
of  Gilmore's  band  playing  outside. 


84 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


Manhattan  Beach  Hotel. 


Guests  will   please   Pay  their  Checks  to  the  Waiters,  and  see  that  Prices 
charged  correspond  with  those  on   Bill   of  Fare. 


BILL.   OF    FARE. 


,    CTTJIDsnE    14,     18  - 


SHELL    FISH 


Little  Neck  clams  on  half  shell  ..................  25 

Clams,  stewed  ...................................  40 


fried 


Clam,  roasted  ....................................  40 

"    Little  Neck,  roasted  .......................  50 

steamed  ....................................  40 


fritters  ...................................  40    Plain  lobster  .....................................  40 

Soft  shell  crabs  ..................................  50 


Consomme1 
Clam  chowder 


SOUPS 

25    Printanier  Royal 
25    Mock  Turtle 


FISH 


Baked  bluefish.  wine  sauce  ...............  45 

Eels,  tartar  sauce  ................................  50 

Striped  bass,  broiled  .............................  40 

Bluefish  "       .............................  4° 

Sheepshead  .............................  5° 

Fresh  codfish     "       ...........................  40 

Fresh  codfish,  hollandaise  .......................  50 


Boiled  sheepshead,  hollandaise  ...........  60 

Connecticut  River  salmon  broikd  ................  50 

Spanish  mackerel  "       ................  50 

Blackfish  "       ................  40 

Sea  bass  "       ................  40 

Filet  of  sole,  tartar  or  tomato  sauce  ..............  50 


BOILED 


Leg  of  mutton,  caper  sauce  ......................  50 

Corned  beef  and  cabbage  ........................  45 

Ox  tongue  with  spinach  .........................  45 


Turkey  with  pork  ...............................  60 

Chicken,  Florentine  sauce  .......................  75 


Ribs  of  Beef 
Lamb,  mint  sauce 
Spring  turkey...  j 


ROAST 

40  I  Spring1  chicken  with  cresses,  whole 
50  half 

60  |  Ham  glac6,  champagne  sauce 


ENTREES 

Blanquette  of  Veal  a  la  Poulette  .............  .  .........  60 

Poulet  saut6  a  1'Estragon  ..............................  75 

Lamb's  Kidneys  a  ITtalienne  ..........................  60 

Lobster  Croquettes  aux  fines  herbes  ...................  60 

Frog's  Legs  sautes  a  la  Hollandaise 


60 


CAME 


50 
English  snipe,  on  toast  ..........................  50 


Philadelphia  squab...   ..........................  60 

Plover,  on  toast  ..................................  60 


VEGETABLES 

Potatoes,  boiled..,  ............  10  I  Potatoes,  a  la  Parisienne  ......  20 

"         fried  ..................  10  I         "         a  la  Lyonnaise  .......  20 

"         Saratoga  .............  10  |  Boiled  rice  .....................  15 


mashed  ..............  10 

a  la  mattre  d'hOtel....  15 

sautes  ................  J$ 


Stewed  tomatoes  ...............  20 

Green  peas  ....................  25 


Asparagus  .....................  25 

New  beets  .....................  20 


Macaroni  a  1'Italienne  .........  25 

Spaghetti  ......................  30 

French  peas  ...................  35 

Stuffed  tomatoes  ...............  30 

Canned  corn 


French  string  beans  ............  35 

String  beans  ...................  .25 


SALADS,  RELISHES,  ETC. 


Lettuce,  plain  dressing  ..........................  25 


with  egg  ................................  30 


with  mayonnaise  ........................  35 

Potato  salid  .....................................  20 


Sliced  tomatoes  ..................................  25 

Tomato  salad,  mayonnaise  .......................  35 

Cucumbers  .........  .  ............................  20 


Watercress  ......................................  20 


Currantjelly  ....................................  15 


French  or  English  pickles  .......................  15 

Chow  chow  .....................................    15 


Olives  ...........................................  15 

Pickled  beets  ....................................  10 

Radishes  ........................................  10 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


85 


PASTRY   AND    ICE  CREAMS 


Charlotte  nisse iS  I  Eclairs 15 

Apple  pie 15     Lady  fingers 15 

Peach  pie 5     Fancy  cakes ao 

Pineapple  pie 15    Blanc  mange 20 

Custard  pie 15    Cabinet  padding ao 

Rum  Jelly 25 

Chocolate  ice  cream 25  |  Lemon  ice 25 

Vanilla  or  strawberry  ice  cream 25     Tulli  Frutti 25 

Meringue  glacee o°  I 

FRUIT  DESSERT  CHEESE 

Strawberries  and  cream 25    Pecan  nuts 15    American 10 

Oranges 20    Almonds 15     Knglish 15 

Rum  omelette 35     Mixed  nuts 25    Swiss 20 

Kaisms 20     Neufchatel 20 

Stilton 25 

PRESERVED    FRUIT 

Strawberries 25     Brandy  peaches 35 

Ginger 25     White  cherries 25 

Damsons 25    Orange  marmalade 25 

COLD    DISHES 

Roast  beef 40  Corned  beef 40  Chicken  salad .65 

"  turkey 60  Ham 40  Lobster  sauid 50 

"  lamb 50  Beef  tongue 401  "  plain 40 

Half  chicken 60  |  |  Sardines 35 

Ham  sandwuh 15    Tonsrue  sandwich 15 

Corned  beef  sandwich 15     Chicken  sandwich aj 

DISHES    TO    ORDER 

Beefsteak,  plain 50    Squab  broiled  with  cress 60 

"          \vithonions 60         "    with  peas 80 

"          wilh  mushrooms 75    Sweetbread  broiled 70 

Sirloin  steak 75  "          k  la  mace'doine 75 

"          "     with  mushrooms I  oo  with  Frem  h  peas 85 

Tenderloin  steak So  "          with  mushrooms i  oo 

"  "    wirh  madeira  sauce 90    Mutton  chops 50 

"  "     with  mushrooms I  oo  sauce  piquante 60 

"    a  la  Bordelaise 150  with  peas 70 

"  "    with  truffles i  50  "  a  la  jardiniere 70 

Filet  Chateaubriand,  plain i  50    Lamb  chops,  plain 60 

"  with  mushrooms 200  "  a  la  Soubise 75 

"  "  a  la  Trianon 225     Calf's  head  a  la  vinaigrette 50 

"  "  with  truffles 250  ,  a  la  poulette 50 

Porterhouse  steak,  plain i  25  "          en  tortue 80 

"       with  mushrooms i  75     Chicken  broiled  on  toast  (half) 60 

"  "       extra  large,  plain 200  "       saute  with  mushrooms i  oo 

"  "  "  mush  rooms....  2  50  "  "     a  la  bordelaise i  oo 

Veal  Cutlet,  plain 50  "  "     a  la  Marengo 125 

breaded,  tomato  sauce oo    Welsh  rarebit 40 

"  a  1'Italienne bo    Golden  Buck 50 

"  en  papillote 70    Soft  shell  crabs 50 

Frog's  Legs  breaded 50 

MISCELLANEOUS 

Cream  toast 35  French  or  graham  bread 10  Boston  brown  bread 10 

Milk  toast 20  Bread  and  milk 25  Plain  bread 10 

Dipped  toast 15  Tea  biscuit 15  Cream,  per  glass 20 

Dry  toast 10  Milk,  per  glass 10 

Oolong  tea,  per  cup 10    Green  or  Japan  tea,  Chocolate,  per  cup 15 

per  pot 20  per  pot  only. .....  20  "          per  pot 25 

Eng.  Breakfast  tea,  per  cup..  ..10  I  Broma,  per  cup 15  Coffee,  per  cup 10 

"  "          per  pot. ...20  I        "       per  pot 25          "       per  pot..., 20 


Iced  Coffee,  per  glass 15 


Iced  Tea,  per  glass 15 


86 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


A   FEW    ENTREES    AND   A   LITTLE    MAN- 
AGEMENT. 

No  matter  how  high  the  prices  or  how 
wealthy  the  establishment,  it  is  found  most 
difficult  to  keep  a  restaurant  strictly  on  the 
"cooked  to  order"  method;  provisions, 
however  well  cooked,  will  remain  uncalled 
for  and  must  either  be  lost  in  large  aggre- 
gate quantities  or  turned  to  the  use  of  a 
regular  dinner.  Delmonico  claims  that 
consideration  of  the  great  loss  of  provisions 
which  must  be  of  the  best,  must  be  kept  in 
readiness,  yet  must  be  parted  with  if  in  the 
least  deteriorated,  as  his  reply  to  the  charge 
of  keeping  the  dearest  restaurant  in  the 
world.  We  see  in  this  great  bill  of  fare, 


therefore,  five  fresh  entrees  every  day,  and 
scanning  them  with  the  eyes  of  experience 
we  may  find  a  judicious  use  to-day  has  been 
made  of  some  good  things  which  did  not  sell 
in  the  other  lists  where  they  appeared  the 
day  before.  That  much  is  borrowed  from 
the  hotel  plan.  A  few  good  entrees  are 
made  and  offered  without  waiting  for  the 
accident  of  their  being  ordered,  and  in  that 
way  they  always  sell  well  to  the  people 
who  would  much  rather  have  somebody 
get  dinner  ready  for  them  and  call  them 
to  it  than  have  the  trouble  of  planning  and 
ordering  a  dinner  themselves. 

This  is  the  list  of  entrees  which  appeared 
the  next  day  after  the  former  bill,  and 
shows  the  only  changes  made  in  the  en- 
tire list 


ENTREES 

Filet  of  beef  larded  a  la  Jardiniere 70 

Epigram  me  of  spring  lamb,  tomato  sauce .....60 

Calf's  brains  breaded,  sauce  tartare 65 

Vol-an-vent  of  chicken  a  la  Financiere 80 

Philadelphia  squab,  en  crapaudine 70 


The  wine  list  printed  on  the  fourth  page 
of  the  original  bill  of  fare  folder  was  in 
small  type  as  voluminous  of  items  as  the 
dinner  list  inside  and  the  front  page  was 
taken  up  with  the  programme  of  the  grand 
concerts. 

THE  MERCHANTS'  LUNCH  HOUSE. 

Of  a  contrary  description  is  the  mer- 
chants' lunch  house — a  kind  of  restaurant 
that  thrives  by  the  necessities  and  not  the 
luxuries  of  its  patrons.  One  that  is  not 
obliged  to  secure  new  and  inviting  comes- 
tibles and  not  obliged  to  command  the 
markets  nor  carry  a  varied  stock.  The 
lunch  house  restaurant  is  useful  rather 
than  ornamental ;  not  sought  for  pleasure, 
but  through  the  driving  necessity  of  taking 
in  some  sustenance  without  delay.  To 
live  and  be  a  business  success  it  must  be 
located  in  the  most  densely  packed  portion 
of  the  city,  in  cramped  quarters  and 
pinched-up  places  on  valuable  ground,  but 
easily  accessible;  then  it  must  furnish 
something  to  eat  and  drink — it  makes  but 
little  difference  what — for  the  men  whose 
pursuits  are  such  as  to  prevent  their  going 


far  for  their  mid-day  meal.  There  may  be 
added  to  the  main  dining  hall  or  counter, 
or  whatever  the  feeding  place  may  con- 
sist of,  a  few  private  rooms,  perhaps  an 
upstairs  dining  room  with  some  pretensions 
to  elegance,  where  men  of  some  leisure  or 
merchants  who  take  a  country  customer 
to  dinner  may  have  a  table  to  themselves 
and  at  least  half  of  a  waiter's  attention. 
These  conditions  being  secured  a  plain 
man  with  plain  business  sense  may  make 
an  income  which  runs  up  into  the  thou- 
sands each  year  without  much  hard  work 
or  anxiety;  without  attracting  the  least 
notice  or  even  bare  recognition  from  his 
constant  customers,  who  only  come  to  his 
place  because  it  is  the  nearest  and  is  not 
very  bad.  This  sort  of  a  house  has  no 
business  on  Sundays  and  may  as  well  close 
on  that  day  as  not.  The  few  essentials  to 
make  it  successful  in  the  matters  of  the 
table  are  that  it  furnish  the  best  of  beef 
plainly  cooked,  the  best  of  coffee,  best 
butter  and  bread.  All  sorts  of  extras,  of 
course,  are  offered  and  a  good  deal  sold  of 
fish  and  games  and  the  ordinary  pastries, 
but  nobody's  reputation  is  affected  whether 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK 


87 


ARTICLES  HAYING  NO  PRICE  ATTACHED  NOT  SERVED  TO-DAY. 

BOIS  BLANC'S 
RESTAURANT  AND   MERCHANTS>  LUNCH. 

SOUP. 

Beef  Broth , 15    Bean 15 

FISH. 

Boiled  Fresh  Cod,  Egg  Sauce 35     Yellow  Perch 

Trout  Steak White  Fish,  broiled  or  fried 

Fresh  Mackerel Yellow  Pike 

Spanish  Mackerel Fresh  Salmon 

Black  Bass Boiled  Haddock,  with  Oyster  Sauce 

COLD    MEATS. 

Lobster  Salad 30  Potato  Salad 15 

Chicken  Salad 30  Shrimp  Salad 40 

Bean  Salad 25  Pickled  Lamb's  Tongue 25 

Pressed  Corned  Beef 25  Baldwin  Ham 25 

Smoked  Tongue 25 

ENTREES. 

New  England  Boiled  Dinner 35  Cod  Fish  Balls 

Irish  Stew  with  Vegetables 30  Beef  a  la  mode 

Baked  Chicken  Pie Boiled  Leg  of  Mutton,  Caper  Sauce 

Chicken  Friraseed  on  Dry  Toast Poik  and  Beans., 25 

Tenderloin  of  Beef  with  Onions Chicken  Giblets  on  Toast 

Pigs'  Feet Boiled  Turkey,  with  Oyster  Sauce 40 

Honey  Comb  Tripe,  Tomato  Sauce Boiled  Chicken,  with  Salt  Pork 

Baked  Macaroni  with  Cheese .15  Corned  Beef  Hash,  with  One  Poached  Egg 35 

Minred  Turkey,  with  One  Poached  Egg Turkey  Wings,  Stewed,  with  Vegetables 

Chicken  Pot  Pie 35  Pork  Tenderloin,  with  Fried  Apples 35 

Pigeon  Pot  Pie Veal  Cutlets,  Breaded 

ROASTS. 

Loin  of  Beef 35    Pork,  Apple  Sauce 

Veal,  Stuffed Young  Spring  Chicken 

Rib  Ends  of  Beef 25    Turkey,  Cranberry  Sauce 

Venison,  Cranberry  Sauce 40    Young  Goose,  Cranberry  Sauce 

Saddle  of  Mutton Canvass  Back  Duck 

Teal  Duck,  with  Jelly Mallard  Duck 

VEGETABLES 

Mashed  Potatoes Elgin  Corn Succotash I  Sugar  Beets 10 

Asparagus  on  Toast..  15     Squash 10  Stewed  Tomatoes 10  '  Baked  Sweet 

Lima  Beans I  Young  Onions Fried  Parsnips Potatoes IO 

Boiled  Onions 10  1  Potatoes Turnips,  mashed 10 

RELISHES 

Cucumber  Catsup 1  Sweet  Pickles i  Cold  Slaw I  Worcestershire  Sauce, 

Tabasco  Sauce |  Tomato  Catsup |  | 

PUDDING    AND    PIES. 

Granula  Pudding,  Vanilla  Sauce 10     

Mince  Pie,  10.    Apple  Pie,  10.     Custard  Pie. 

Lemon  Pie.        Cranberry  Pie.        Pumpkin  Pie,  10 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Codfish  Tongues  on  Toast Shrimps,  per  plate 

Scollops Sardines,  per  box 

Frogs' Legs "  "      for  two 

Fresh  Lobster,  whole Soft  Crabs,  per  pair 

"  «•        half 

TEA,    COFFEE    AND    CHOCOLATE. 

French  Coffee,  per  pot 25     Coffee,  per  cup IO 

with  Cognac "          "     pot,  for  one 15 

Tea,  per  Cup 10          "         "      "      "    two 35 

"    pot,  for  one 15     Chocolate,  per  cup 15 

"      "      "      "    two 25  per  pot,  for  one 25 

"      "       "    two 40 

ALL    FANCY    AND    MIXED    DRINKS,    CALL    FOR. 

Budweiser  Beer,  Qts 30  cents;  Pints 30  cents. 

Best's  Milwaukee  Lager  Beer 10  cents. 


88 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


such  dishes  are  good  or  not,  or  whether 
genuine  or  mere  imitations  and  substitutes, 
and  one  who  would  try  to  carry  out  ideas 
of  a  better  order  of  things  would  be  left 
behind  by  duller  competitors  who  are 
better  fitted  for  the  position.  In  short,  the 
busy  merchants,  insurance  men,  lawyers, 
agents  of  all  sorts,  and  proprietors  of  every 
business  in  the  heart  of  a  city  experience 
a  difficulty  in  finding  a  suitable  lunch  place, 
for  the  reason  that  in  the  locality  where 
most  wanted  the  rents  are  generally  too 
high  for  lunch  houses  to  pay ;  when  some 
man  does  get  a  footing  in  such  a  place  his 
custom  is  assured  from  the  first  with  only 
a  small  effort  on  his  part;  his  struggle  is 
not  to  make  his  house  and  table  most  ex- 
cellent, but  to  make  it  pay  the  rent  and 
himself. 


Such  a  necessity  for  a  place  to  take  a 
rapid  lunch  was  felt  by  an  enterprising 
firm  of  liquor  merchants  in  Chicago  some 
years  back,  and  with  more  thought  for  the 
convenience  of  the  thing  than  the  rent 
value  of  the  rooms  they  gave  a  restaurant 
man  a  chance  by  letting  him  have  the 
necessary  space  in  their  own  building  at  a 
nominal  rent,  and  by  the  time  they  became 
tired  of  the  rather  one-sided  arrangement, 
which  was  at  the  end  of  three  years  when 
they  took  charge  of  the  place  themselves, 
the  restaurant  man  had  deposited  in  the 
bank  ten  thousand  dollars  as  his  net  pro- 
fits. That  on  the  preceding  page  was  his 
bill  of  fare.  He  served  no  breakfasts  and 
did  not  keep  open  on  Sunday. 

The  bill  was  not  too  good,  but  just  good 
enough ;  the  prices  were  not  too  high,  but 
just  high  enough.  Nothing  admirable 
about  it  further  than  that  it  is  the  bill  oi 
fare  of  a  Chicago  Merchants'  Lunch  that 
succeeded. 

The  same  bill  of  fare  would  fit  equally 
well  another  one  of  Chicago's  most  suc- 
cessful lunch  house  restaurants;  Thomp- 
son's, however,  very  conveniently  situatec 
with  plenty  of  room  in  a  building  to  itself 
Said  the  chief  cook  of  the  place  to  the 
writer,  one  day:  "Yes,  we  serve  all  of 


three  thousand  meals  a  day;  they  are 
nearly  all  to  regular  customers;  never 
enough  strangers  among  them  to  make 
any  particular  difference.  We  don't  stop 
to  garnish  our  dishes  with  parsley  and 
lemons,  you  know,  but  what  we  give  'em 
is  good,  and  we  manage  to  give  most  of 
our  customers  seats  at  the  tables;  and  I 
think  the  reason  we  do  one  of  the  biggest 
businesses  of  the  kind  is  because  we  serve 
the  meals  quicker  than  any  other  place 
can.  Why,  good  lord,  sir!  I  can't  tell 
you  how  we  serve  them  quicker;  but  I 
have  six  carvers  and  each  one  has  a  rib 
roast  of  beef  before  him,  and  it  seems  to 
me  they  must  carve  a  dish  of  beef  apiece 
every  two  seconds,  and  that's  about  as  fast 
as  the  people  can  come  in  at  the  doors — 
roast  beef  and  mashed  potatoes  is  thirty- 
five  cents  an  order;  if  you  want  to  count 
up,  you  can — as  for  me,  you  know,  every- 
body doesn't  take  roast  beef  and  what  they 
do  take,  why  that  falls  on  me  to  look  after- 
with  my  other  men.  About  thirty  hands 
in  the  kitchen  is  what  we  have,  and  thirty 
or  forty  waiters,  but  some  of  them  only 
work  through  dinner  time." 

Here,  too,  the  breakfasts,  though  consid- 
erable, were  light  in  comparison  with  the 
noon  lunches  or  dinners.  The  proprietor 
of  the  place  (recently  deceased)  was  the 
owner  of  the  building,  a  very  valuable  one» 
of  which  he  used  only  the  lower  floor  for 
his  lunch  house  business,  and,  besides,  died 
possessed  of  $150,000,  said  to  have  been 
made  in  the  restauraurant  business,  which 
he  kept  by  him  in  cash.  He  was  an  illit- 
erate man,  and  was  afiaid  to  trust  his 
money  to  the  banks. 

An4  close  by — for  all  three  of  these 
places  were  situated  in  the  same  block — 
was  a  "fine"  restaurant,  where  they  did 
garnish  their  dishes  and  served  every 
delicacy  to  order,  and  did  really  good  work ; 
but  its  patronage  was  small,  and  it  changed 
proprietors  three  times  in  two  years.  It 
was  the  right  kind  of  a  restaurant  in  the 
wrong  place,  except  for  the  demands  of 
the  few. 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


89 


THE    BAKERY    LUNCH. 

One  of  the  greatest  successes  among 
Chicago  lunch  businesses  is  remarkable  for 
the  narrow  compass  in  which  it  is  carried 
on  and  the  lack  of  any  outward  indications 
that  would  lead  a  stranger  to  suspect  its 
existence,  much  less  to  surmise  the  im- 
mense extent  of  the  feeding  done  on  the 
premises.  It  is  a  narrow  store  building 
with  ordinary  bake-shop  windows  showing 
some  bread  and  cakes  and  no  other  sign. 
But  signs  are  needless,  the  place  within  is 
taxed  to  its  fullest  capacity  in  every  inch 
of  space  to  meet  the  demands  of  a  singing 
multitude  of  pie  eaters,  and  no  more  can 
be  accommodated;  no  more  can  get  in. 
The  pressure  begins  at  twelve  o'clock  each 
day,  and  some  of  the  more  ingenious  or 
less  restrained  among  the  customers  man- 
age their  business  so  as  to  resort  there  for 
their  pie  and  milk  between  the  hours  of 
eleven  and  twelve,  and  so  avoid  waiting  in 
line  for  the  stool  of  their  choice;  after 
noon  and  until  two  o'clock  there  is  no 
other  chance,  but  to  stand  and  wait  for  a 
turn,  loving  the  men  in  "front  who  take 
custard  pie,  because  they  can  swallow  it 
quickly  and  move  on,  and  hating  them 
that  give  the  unusual  order  for  ham  sand- 
wiches, two  courses  of  apple  dumplings  or 
meringoes  and  iced  coffee  with  a  straw, 
because  that  means  delay  for  the  men  who 
stand  behind. 

Great  stories  have  been  told  of  the 
enormous  amounts  of  pastry  of  all  kinds 
consumed  at  this  principal  bakery  lunch 
house  of  the  city,  and  the  hundreds  of 
thousands  of  customers  served  each  year, 
but  this  is  not  to  our  purpose.  There  is  a 
suggestion  in  it,  however,  that  almost 
every  town  of  consequence  would  support 
well  a  bakery  lunch  house  carried  on  in 
the  right  way:  serving  the  very  best  of 
pastries  of  all  varieties  in  liberal  portions 
at  a  small  price.  The  profit  on  each  cus- 
tomer is  necessarily  small,  but  the  aggre- 
gate, like  the  two  cent  stamp  business  of  a 
post  office,  soon  runs  up  to  hundreds  and 
thousands..  The  various  pastries  and  cakes 


are  produced  in  these  large  and  successful 
establishments  by  the  best  bakery  machin- 
ery and  baked  in  rotary  ovens  of  enormous 
capacity.  It  is  often  asked  why  such 
crowding  as  these  places  show  should  be 
allowed;  why  more  roomy  quarters  are 
not  provided  and  better  accommodations. 
But,  probably,  the  conditions  noted  are  the 
only  ones  possible ;  to  attempt  to  change 
the  business  would  destroy  it.  It  is  the 
public  need  that  builds  np  such  a  trade; 
the  men  who  own  the  business  do  not 
make  the  tide,  they  only  ride  upon  it. 

THE    PLACE   AND   NOT    THE    MAN. 

Examples  of  successful  places  where  the 
man  and  his  efforts  amount  to  nothing, 
but  the  location  is  everything,  are  plenti- 
ful enough.  Here  is  a  sample  of  a  curious 
kind  of  business  dependent  only  upon  the 
time  and  place,  mentioned  by  a  foreign 
correspondent: 

"  One  of  the  minor  industries  in  the  Pa- 
risian catering  trade  is  that  of  the  vendors 
of  milk  in  the  early  hours  of  the  morning, 
who  are  to  be  found  under  the  fortes- 
cochere  of  a  house  in  almost  every  street, 
and  who  supply  the  public  with  cafe-au- 
lait,  chocolate,  hot  milk,  crescents  and 
rolls,  besides  cold  milk.  The  hot  drinks 
can  be  consumed  on  the  premises,  a  bench 
or  two  and  a  table  being  at  the  customer's 
disposition,  fn  some  parts  of  the  town 
these  enterprising  ladies  do  a  rattling  busi- 
ness in  spite  of  the  short  hours  allotted  to 
them,  and  the  comparatively  high  rents 
they  have  to  pay.  In  the  house  where  I 
live,  the  laitiere  pays  ten  pounds,  about 
$48.50,  per  annum  for  the  use  of  the  door- 
way and  entrance  for  two  hours  every 
morning,  from  5.30  to  7.30,  and  yet  I  be- 
lieve she  does  a  famous  business.  In  other 
parts  of  the  town  the  rent  is  still  higher, 
rising  to  twenty  pounds  per  annum  in  very 
crowded  thoroughfares.  The  prices  are 
id.  a  cup  of  hot  milk,  and  i^d.  for  a  large 
bowl  of  hot  coffee  and  milk,  or  chocolate." 

But  that  is  very  much  like  our  southern 
"French  market"  stands,  the  rents  in  the 
market  stalls  being  high  enough  for  the 
few  morning  hours  they  are  occupied. 

THE    MAN    AND    NOT   THE    PLACE. 

On  the  other  hand  here  is  a  present 
instance  of  a  man  changing  utter  disaster 
into  remarkable  success  in  spite  of  the 


90 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


place.  When  prohibition  struck  Atlanta 
with  the  usual  inevitable  effect  of  breaking 
up  many  a  prosperous  man's  business,  it 
extinguished  for  a  moment  the  proprietor 
of  one  of  the  best,  most  respectable  and 
most  profitable  bars  on  the  main  street  of 
the  city,  and,  likewise,  his  popular  head 
barkeeper,  whose  occupation  certainly 
was  gone  completely.  The  building,  like 
scores  of  others,  seemed  to  be  of  no  further 
use,  was  dismantled  of  its  bar  fixtures  and 
stood  deserted.  But  an  idea  struck  the 
proprietor  to  open  a  merchants'  lunch  and 
restaurant  in  the  place,  and  his  popular 
barkeeper  should  be  the  steward.  Neither 
of  them  had  had  restaurant  experience, 
but  the  owner  had  capital  and  business 
capacity,  the  amateur  steward  had  a  pleas- 
ing face  and  a  real  interest  in  making 
everybody  feel  well,  and  their  success  has 
been  amazing.  The  city  is  spoken  of  far 
and  wide  as  one  that  will  not  support  a 
good  restaurant;  the  business  has  been 
tried  time  and  again,  before  and  since,  and 
everybody  fails  except  these  whilom  liquor 
sellers.  Their  place  has  progressed  from 
stove  to  small  range;  from  that  to  large 
range;  from  that  to  hot- water  tanks  and 
steam-cooking  and  a  hot  carving  table; 
from  that  to  renting  a  run-down  sort  of 
boarding  house  up  stairs  and  changing  the 
whole  thing  into  a  fine  "  European  Hotel." 
When  the  prohibition  legislation  was  re- 
pealed this  place  did  not  go  back  to  the  old 
bar  business  as  others  did  with  a  rush,  but 
keeps  on  in  the  new  line  of  success.  Nat- 
ural adaptation  to  the  business  is  the  secret 
of  success  in  this  case,  both  men  know 
what  is  good  themselves,  and  buy  only 
what  is  good,  and  if  the  jolly  ex-barkeeper, 
now  steward,  is  the  cheerful  giver,  the 
owner  is  the  careful  manager,  and  they  are 
both  in  love  with  what  they  are  doing.  It 
would  be  space  wasted  to  print  their  bill  of 
fare — their  show  window  is  their  best  card, 
nor  would  it  profit  to  repeat  the  stories 
told  of  the  large  amount  of  money  made, 
such  are  always  exaggerated,  sufficient  it  is 
to  know  that  their  success  is  of  the  sub- 
stantial kind  that  satisfies  them. 


THE    BAR    ROOM    FREE    LUNCH. 

And  yet,  after  all,  perhaps  the  bartender 
of  the  preceding  instance  gained  an  insight 
of  the  restaurant  business  through  the 
practice  prevalent  in  some  cities  of  serving 
a  roast-beef -and-trimmings  lunch  free  to 
patrons  of  the  bar.  New  Orleans  is  called 
the  original  home  of  the  free  lunch,  and  it 
is  true  to-day  that  the  best  lunch  obtain- 
able in  that  city  can  be  had  at  the  bar- 
rooms; not  free  to  all,  but  upon  payment 
of  fifteen  cents  for  drinks  of  some  kind  at 
the  counter.  There  is  a  soup,  fish,  roast 
beef  of  the  very  best  quality,  salads  of 
beets  and  potatoes,  and  bread.  The  best 
cooks  find  easy  employment  on  these  hot 
lunches  and  similar  midnight  suppers.  The 
excellence  of  the  repasts  furnished  at  such 
merely  nominal  rates  has  much  to  do  with 
the  making  New  Orleans  the  poor  hotel 
city  it  is  known  to  be.  The  stranger  in 
the  city  who  does  not  know  of  the  free  hot 
lunches  at  the  liquor  palaces  knows  noth- 
ing. New  Orleans  has  been  famous  for 
its  restaurants,  also,  but  the  reports  vary 
according  to  the  humor  or  the  good  or  bad 
fortune  of  some  visitor  who  writes  about 
them.  To  avoid  going  over  old  ground, 
to  show  that  restaurants  are  the  same  the 
world  over  and  that  the  same  complaints 
fit  St.  Petersburg  that  would  apply  to  New 
Orleans  let  us  append  this  growl  of  an 
Englishman  in 

A  RUSSIAN  RESTAURANT: 

"  If,  however,  you  wish  to  attempt  one 
of  the  fashionable  restaurants  in  the  Great 
Morskaia,  two  hospitable  houses  on  either 
side  of  the  way  open  wide  their  tempting 
portals.  Which  shall  it  be?  Desseaux  on 
the  right,  or  Borel  on  the  left?  Scylla  over 
the  way,  or  Charybdis  on  this  tide?  For 
surely  neither  Scylla  nor  Charybdis  ever 
seized  the  unwary  traveller  with  such 
irresistible  force,  or  devoured  him  to  such 
good  purpose.  . 

"Entering  Desseaux's  'Restaurant  des 
Nobles,'  you  are  received  with  civility 
amounting  to  obsequiousness.  One  small 
waiter  relieves  you  of  hat  and  stick;  an- 
other, a  little  larger,  removes  your  great- 
coat; and  a  third,  quite  full-sized  and  rather 
fat,  awaits  your  instruct'ons  with  a  winning 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


91 


smile  and  many  low  bows.  '  Nyet  Russki ' 
should  be  your  first  remark ;  and  the  fact 
of  your  being  a  stranger  being  thus  ascer- 
tained, No.  3  disappears  and  fetches  the 
linguist  of  the  establishment,  a  very  portly 
man,  who  asks  you  for  your  orders  in  fair 
French.  An  habitue  would  reply,  '  A 
plain  soup,  a  mutton  cutlet  done,  on  the 
grid,  a  roast  gelinotte  and  salad,  Russian 
beer ; '  but  you,  a  stranger,  overawed  by  the 
stout  linguist,  by  his  magnificent  shirt- 
front,  and  above  all  by  the  morocco-bound, 
gilt-edged,  brass-clasped  bill  of  fare,  as  for- 
midable as  a  family  Bible,  which  he  holds 
out  for  your  inspection,  will  not  think  of 
ordering  so  simple  a  dinner.  And  if  you 
have  an  inclination  that  way,  the  sight  of 
three  huge  champagne-coolers,  containing 
long-necked  bottles,  which  grace  a  table 
occupied  by  a  couple  of  young  Guardsmen 
in  their  gorgeous  uniform,  will  remind 
you  that  you  did  not  come  to  Desseaux's 
for  a  chop  and  a  glass  of  beer,  and  that 
more  is  expected  of  you,  although  you 
don't  know  what  to  order.  But  some  feel- 
ing akin  to  pity,  some  recollection  of  the 
days  when  he  too  was  a  stranger  in  a  for- 
eign land,  seems  to  stir  within  Mezzofanti's 
broad  bosom.  For  instead  of  allowing  you 
to  flounder  hopelessly  through  fifty-eight 
stiff  pages  of  the  bill  of  fare,  he  kindly  helps 
you  by  suggesting  that  perhaps  you  would 
Hke  le  diner  du  jour;  and  at  the  same 
time  he  produces  an  elegant  menu,  printed 
in  dark-blue  on  cream-tinted  paper  with  a 
flowery  pink  border.  The  cream-tinted 
paper  appears  to  you  like  the  flag  of  hope ; 
it  is  the  traditional  straw  at  which  the 
drowning  man  clutches,  and  you  gasp 
« Oui,  oui,'  hysterically.  Thus  you  have 
chosen — you  must  eat,  not  what  you  like, 
but  what  suits  Desseaux's  pocket;  and  you 
drop  down  on  one  of  the  comfortable  sofas 
in  the  pleasant  dining-room,  and  hear  the 
young  Guardsmen  exchange  opinions  (in 
bad  French)  about  the  last  new  dancer  at 
the  Theatre  Berg,  till  soup  arrives,  and 
•with  it  another  magnificent  volume — this 
time  the  wine-list,  naturally  open  at  the 
page  containing  champagne  at  six  roubles 
and  upward.  But  you  are  not  to  be  taken 
in,  and  turning  back,  select  a  pint  bottle  of 
St.  •  Julien  at  two  roubles — a  good,  safe 
wine,  you  imagine  you  know.  After  the 
soup  (which  is  good,  but  enriched  with  too 
many  quenelles,  croquettes,  etc.),  and  the 
inevitable  petits  pate's,  you  get  stewed  beef, 
which  you  recognise  as  first  cousin  to  the 
Rindfleisch  of  Germany  and  the  bouilli  of 
France;  only  the  latter  costs  sixpense  a 
plateful,  while  his  Russian  relation  is  more 
expensive  and  more  stringy.  To  console 


yourself,  you  turn  to  the  St.  Julien.  What 
is  your  horror  at  finding  a  sweet,  fiery 
compound,  of  which  the  curious  astrin- 
gency  evidently  proceeds  from  sloes,  and 
which  has  nothing  common  with  French 
wine  except  its  color!  You  proceed  natur- 
ally to  sterlet  (a  small  fish  of  the  sturgeon 
family)  a  la  Jfusse,  which  perhaps  you  will 
like.  But  after  this  rich  dish  you  feel  the 
want  of  a  little  good  wine,  and  therefore 
rather  indignantly  have  the  pretended  St. 
Julien  removed,  and  order  half  a  bottle  of 
Margaux.  Calf  s  head  stewed  a  lafinan- 
dere  follows,  and  would  be  good  in  its  way 
if  it  were  not  too  rich,  like  all  Russian 
dishes.  The  Margaux  now  arrives,  and 
proves  to  be  a  little  more  fiery  and  a  little 
less  sweet  than  the  St.  Julien,  but  no  more 
like  claret  than  its  predecessor.  However, 
it  drinks  better  when  diluted,  or  perhaps 
you  are  getting  used  to  it  God  forbid  the 
latter!  for  then  your  palate  is  hopelessly 
blunted,  your  taste  gone,  and  you  will 
never  again  appreciate  the  Sauterne  of  the 
Maison  Doree  or  the  delicious  Lafitte  of 
Bignon!  However,  a  dish  of  intensely 
green  peas  now  appears,  and  you  only  find 
out  when  you  try  them  that  they  are  pre- 
served, and  very  badly  preserved,  too.  Ax 
last  comes  the  roast,  and  if  Desseaux  doe* 
his  duty  it  will  be  fowl,  and  not  game;  for 
the  former  is  much  more  expensive,  and 
therefore  considered  more  delicate.  Des- 
seaux does  his  duty,  and  you  have  the 
pleasure  of  carving  a  chicken  about  the 
size  of  a  large  sparrow,  and  consisting  of 
skin,  bone,  and  a  few  stray  feathers.  This 
fine  bird  is  accompanied  by  pickled  cu- 
cumbers, but  as  both  your  own  aversion 
and  your  doctor's  orders  prevent  your  par- 
taking of  this  Russian  substitute  for  salad, 
you  feel  that  you  have  hardly  dined,  al- 
though you  have  finished  dinner.  You 
order  a  little  cheese,  then  coffee  and 
liqueur;  and  when  your  bill  is  brought, 
you  philosophize  on  how  much  a  man 
can  spend  on  his  dinner  without  getting 
enough  to  eat  or  anything  fit  to  drink. 
Here  it  is : 

Rbs.  Kps. 

Diner 3        0 

Pain 0      20 

St.Julien 2        0 

Margaux 3        0 

CaK 0      40 

Liqueur,  etc 0      40 

Fromage 0      40 

~~9 40,  or  £1  7s. 

And,  let  it  be  added,  Desseaux  is  not  by 
any  means  the  dearest  restaurant  in  St. 
Petersburg,  nor  the  -worst" 

An   odd  coincidence!  That  sketch  of  a 
St.  Petersburg  restaurant  brings  us  back  to 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


Manhattan  Beach  and  the  great  bill  of 
fare.  There  is  the  same  soup,  the  same 
something  a  la  financiered  the  same  diner 
dujour — d  nner  of  the  day — with  perhaps 
the  same  five  entrees;  the  same  froinage 
and  things  at  about  the  same  prices  and 
the  same  wines.  The  restaurants  of  that 
class  are  all  alike. 

THE    OYSTER    AND   FISH    RESTAURANT. 

For  something  different  from  the  con- 
ventional style  of  first-class  restaurant  and 
which  may  be  claimed  as  peculiarly  Amer- 
ican, we  turn  with  pleasure  to  the  first 
class  oyster  house,  very  probably  the  source 
of  more  real  enjoyment  combined  with  a 
sufficiency  of  tone  or  style  than  any  other 
class  of  public  eating  house  whatever ;  and 
as  sea  foods,  in  the  natural  order  of  things, 
become  the  greater  luxuries  in  proportion 
to  their  distance  from  the  sea,  we  shall 
find  the  best  specimens  of  the  oyster  and 
fish  house  in  the  very  centers  of  the  con- 
tinent, in  the  large  cities  of  the  interior, 
probably  nowhere  better  than  in  Chicago. 
All  that  the  famous  gourmands  and  epi- 
cures named  in  history  could  do  was  to 
obtain  rare  and  costly  kinds  of  meats  and 
fish,  and  make  them  more  costly  still  by 
obtaining  them  from  immense  distances 
whither  their  competitors  and  their  purses 
could  not  reach,  and  even  the  king  of 
romancer,  Dumas,  could  imagine  no  higher 
achievement  for  one  of  his  most  sumptu- 
ous heroes  than  his  feat  of  procuring  a  rare 
and  peculiar  fish  found  only  in  one  par- 
ticular river  of  the  world,  brought  across 
the  wilds  of  Russia  in  a  tank  of  water  and 
landed  in  Paris  alive,  to  be  served  at  this 
wonderful  entertainer's  next  reception. 
The  railroads  and  express  service  have 
done  much  to  bring  all  parts  of  the  country 
to  the  same  dead  level  of  equality  of  mar- 
kets, and  yet  there  is  a  small  fence  of  ex- 
clusiveness  raised  around  the  inland  oyster 
house  by  the  express  charges  and  "oysters 
on  the  half  shell,"  which  may  be  too  com- 
mon at  ten  cents  a  dozen  at  a  fish  stall  on 
the  sea-board  for  their  intrinsic  excellence 
to  be  really  appreciated,  when  enhanced  in 


flavor  by  so  much  per  pound  charged  for 
transporting  them  a  thousand  miles  or 
more  become  a  luxury  worthy  of  the  mirr- 
ored marble  and  mahogany  halls  and 
elaborate  styles  of  service  and  all  accesso- 
ries of  the  best  Chicago  oyster  houses. 

The  fine  restaurants  make  the  most  of 
the  great  American  specialty,  oysters,  in 
all  styles,  employing  the  best  cooks  in  that 
peculiar  line  that  money  can  procure  and 
adopting  every  new  device  for  presenting 
the  lusciou;.  bivalve  in  the  most  tempting 
forms.  In  addition  they  serve  fish  of  every 
saleable  variety,  shell  fish  such  as  lobsters, 
crabs,  clams,  crayfish,  scallops  and,  since 
Dumas'  fls,  salade  Japonaise  has  gained 
notoriety,  the  humbler  mussel  which  ent- 
ers into  its  composition.  Salads  of  all  sorts, 
but  more  especially  fish  salads,  are  made 
here  in  perfection.  Very  little  attention  is 
paid  to  the  ordinary  meat  dishes  of  the 
restaurants,  yet  a  steak  or  chop  with  pota- 
toes can  be  had  if  any  member  of  a  party 
happens  to  have  a  distaste  for  fish  foods. 
While  these  oyster  and  fish  houses  do  a 
good  business  at  all  times  of  the  day  they 
are  in  their  glory  only  at  night,  when,  after 
the  ordinary  closing  hours  of  business  and 
the  closing  of  theatres  and  other  places  of 
amusement,  they  are  crowded  to  their  ut- 
most capacity  and  long  charcoal  ranges 
are  covered  with  oysters  roasting  in  the 
shell,  clams  likewise,  and  further  on  with 
broils,  fries,  stews,  soups,  steams  and  chow- 
ders. The  chief  drawback  to  this  business 
is  that  it  must  take  a  vacation  during  three 
or  four  months  of  summer,  when  oysters 
are  out  of  season  ;  or  the  business  must  be 
temporarily  changed  to  something  to  suit 
the  time  and  re-organized  every  fall.  The 
following  appended  as  a  sort  of  guide  to 
prices  for  any  one  entering  the  business  is 
the  bill  of  fare  of  a  Fulton  market  oyster 
and  fish  house.  Considering  the  location  it 
ought  to  show  the  bottom  prices  which  a 
good  house  can  afford  to  accept  close  to 
the  chief  source  of  supply ;  Chicago  prices 
ought  to  be  and  probably  are  higher,  and 
Denver  or  other  more  distant  cities  should 
obtain  prices  higher  still: 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


93 


AN  OYSTER  AND  LUNCH  ROOM. 

Bill  of  Fare 

FUL  TON  MARKET,  NEW  YORK  CITY. 

SOUPS. 

Ox  Tail  Soup 20    Bisque  of  Oysters »o 

Chicken  Soup 20          "       '•   Clams 20 

Green  Turtle  Soup 40 

OYSTERS. 


Saddle  Rock  Roast 35 

FT 3S 

Stew 35 

Raw 35 


Extra  Saddle  Rock  Roast 50 


Plate  of  Raw 20 

Stew 35 

Boston  Stew 5° 

Fancy  Broil 50 

Box  Stew 30 

3S 


Ovster  Fritters. 


Pickled  Oysters  ..................................  25 

Oyster  Pattie  ....................................  25 

Kricassee  Oysters 


CLAMS. 


Saddle  Rock  Fry  in  Box  .........................  35 


Steamed  Clams 35 

Clam  Chowder 25 

"      Stew 25 

Fry 35 

Roast 35 

Fried  Scallops 35 

FISH. 
ib  Salad 50    Smelt 


Clam  Fritters 35 

Saddle  Rock  Clam  Fry 35 

"          "          "      Stew 35 

Raw  Clams 20 

Stewed  Scallops 25 


Omelet 50    Codfish 


Blue  Fish 40 

Weak  Fish 40 


Mackerel 

Striped  Bass 

Fish  Cakes . . . 


Plain  Lobster 35 

Lobster  Salad 40 

Stewed  Lobster 40 

Lobster  Pattie .35 

Eels 


Kins 

Seal 


Fish. 


.40 
.40 

Black  Bass 40 

Deviled  Crabs,  per  doz.,  to  order i  50 

Salmon  Steak 50 

Soft  Crabs 50 

Pompano 75 

Spanish  Mackerel. 


5° 

White  Bait 50 

Fish  Chowder  (Fridays) 25 


Halibut 40  _ 

All  other  kinds  of  Fish  in  Season. 

MEATS.   ETC, 


Porterhouse  Steak 75 

for  two i  oo 


Double  Porterhouse '. i  25 

Tenderloin  Steak 60 

Sirloin  Steak 50 

Roast  Beef 40 

"     Lamb 40 

Mutton  Chops 40 


Veal  Chops 40 

Lamb  Chops 40 

Boiled  Ham 30 


Cold  Boiled  Chicken 40 

Sweetbreads 50 


Broiled  Chicken 60 

Chicken  Salad 50 

Chicken  Pattie 40 

Liver  and  Bacon 40 

Ham  and  Eggs 40 

Scrambled  Eggs 25 


Poached  Eggs 25 

Two  Eggs  (Boiled  or  Fried) 15 

Plain  Omelet 25 

35 


Fried  Frogs 50    Ham 

Sandwich 15 

VEGETABLES. 

Celery 20     Fried  Sweet  Potatoes 15 

?  Plant ...20    Stewed  Potatoes...  ...ib 


Green  Peas 15 

Asparagus...  ,..] 


Lyonnaise  Potatoes  10 

French  Fried  Potatoe 


Stewed  Corn i  e,     Saratoga  Potatoes 

Green  Corn 15    Tomatoes  (Stewed  or  Raw) 10 

Cucumbers ,  10 


Home-made  Pies 10 

Rice  Pud  rl  ing 10 


DESSERT. 


Farina  Jelly.. 10  I  Corn  Starch. 


Water  Melon 10 

Musk 


Peaches  and  Cream..' 20  |  Ice  Cream 15 

Apple  Fritter.~ 20 


MISCELLANEOUS 

Coffee 10  I  French  Pan 


Cake 25 


Tea 10  I  Wheat  Cakes ....15 

Pot  Tea 15     Rolls,  each. 


Extra  Pot  Tea 25     Chocolate. 

Coffee  or  Tea  and  Roll 15  "        Iced 

Crackers  and  Milk 15 

CAME. 

English  snipe 60  |  Squab  on  Toast 

Other  Game  in  Season. 


94 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


HOW    THE    PAY    IS   COLLECTED. 

One  purpose  of  going  over  the  different 
classes  of  business  in  a  talk  about  restau- 
rant stewarding  was  to  observe  the  differ- 
ent methods  which  restaurateurs  adopt 
for  collecting  the  pay  from  customers. 
Many  men  think  this  is  the  most  difficult 
department  to  control  of  all  in  the  business, 
and  no  man  pretends  yet  that  he  has  found 
a  perfect  plan  for  getting  all  the  money 
that  is  due  him.  In  a  very  small  personal 
business  it  may  be  quite  easy  for  the  pro- 
prietor to  keep  watch  of  each  customer's 
order  and  remember  the  amount,  but  the 
difficulty  increases  as  the  volume  of  trade 
grows  larger  and  personal  watching  is 
given  up  altogether  and  some  plan  insti- 
tuted which  affords  protection  both  to  cus- 
tomer and  owner.  It  is  pleasing  to  think 
that  honesty  is  the  rule  and  the  contrary 
the  rare  exception,  yet  these  exceptional 
cases  give  a  world  of  trouble  and  uneasi- 
ness, and  in  the  largest  cities,  where  thiev- 
ing is  the  trade  of  a  few,  the  opportunities 
afforded  by  the  crowded  restaurants  and 
lunch  houses  are  duly  improved  and  every 
device  of  ingenuity  is  brought  into  play  by 
expert  thieves  in  waiters'  dress  to  intercept 
the  money  paid  in  by  the  customers  on  its 
way  to  the  cas>h  box,  one  of  the  commonest 
being  to  overcharge  the  customer  and 
keep  the  extra  money  themselves.  The 
most  noted  and  successful  Parisian  restau- 
rateur of  the  present  time,  according  to 
the  story-tellers  of  the  press,  was  at  one 
time  on  the  very  verge  of  financial  ruin 
although  doing  an  immense  business,  and 
was  only  saved  from  the  final  crash 
and  lifted  up  to  great  wealth  by  the  dis- 
covery of  an  effective  system  of  checking 
meals  as  sold. 

THE   COMMON    MEAL   CHECK. 

The  common  way  and  which  seemingly 
is  good  enough  for  a  small  business  is  to 
provide  small  cards  printed  with  the  small 
sums  and  perhaps  a  line  or  two,  as: 


YOUR  BILL  Is 

20  Cents. 

PLEASE  PAY  AT  THE  CASHIER'S 
DESK. 


These  are  kept  in  separate  compartment 
boxes  like  silver  change  according  to  their 
denomination ;  the  headwaiter  or  cashier 
or  cook,  or  whoever  has  the  responsibility 
of  keeping  them  in  charge,  hands  one  to 
the  waiter  with  the  order,  who  lays  it  be- 
side the  customer's  plate.  If  the  latter 
orders  something  additional  the  waiter 
takes  away  the  first  check  and  replaces  it 
with  another  bearing  the  larger  amount. 
On  leaving,  the  customer  hands  the  check 
and  his  money  to  the  cashier  or  proprietor. 
This  is  the  simplest  and  commonest  of  all 
methods,  yet  it  affords  scarcely  any  pro- 
tection to  the  proprietor  if  the  waiters  care 
to  be  in  collusion  with  customers,  as  they 
can  easily  manage  to  change  checks  or 
give  those  of  less  denomination  than  the 
dish  ought  to  be  sold  for;  in  short,  for  a 
dozen  reasons  this  plan  is  useless  for  pro- 
tection, but  is  merely  a  means  of  expedit- 
ing business  by  putting  all  the  changing 
of  money  into  the  hands  of  one  person,  the 
cashier,  who  does  nothing  else.  Yet,  this 
is  the  only  method  employed  in  the 
crowded  bakery  lunch  houses  before  men- 
tioned, where  the  waiters  carry  assorted 
checks  loose  in  their  apron  pockets  and 
hand  them  out  to  customers  as  near  right 
as  they  can  remember  to  do,  or  as  near  as 
the  checks  in  pocket  will  fit  the  case,  for 
they  have  not  time  to  go  after  more  always. 
There  the  great  effort  of  the  proprietors  is 
to  prevent  the  customers  going  out  with- 
out yielding  up  either  the  check  or  the 
money,  and  watchmen  try  to  keep  eyes  on 
the  occupants  of  the  lunch  stools  as  they* 
change  and  move  towards  the  door.  The 
same  free-and-easy  plan  suffices  for  the 
dairy  lunch  houses  and  most  of  the  com- 
mon restaurants  in  Chicago,  and  it  speaks 
well  for  the  honor  and  honesty  of  both 
customers  and  waiters  that  such  an  insuffi- 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


cient  system  of  checking  can  prevail  to 
such  an  extent  and  the  proprietors  not  feel 
any  appreciable  loss  from  it.  Even  in  the 
best  oyster  houses,  where  the  individual 
bills  may  vary  from  fifty  cents  to  five  dol- 
lars or  any  higher  sum,  the  method  is  the 
same  and  only  a  little  more  strict  in  the 
custody  of  the  tickets,  the  proprietors  re- 
ceiving the  money  perhaps  being  able  to 
keep  a  very  fair  run  of  the  orders  as  they 
are  served. 

THE  WRITTEN  ORDER  CHECK. 

One  of  the  restaurant  keepers  briefly 
alluded  to  in  a  former  chapter,  professed 
not  to  believe  in  the  honor  or  honesty  of 
any  person  where  money  is  concerned. 
It  may  have  been  only  his  business  code 
which  he  thus  expressed,  for  some  men 
are  different  when  they  put  off  their  busi- 
ness coat  and  become  more  human.  This 
strict  man  had  to  let  the  ordinary  iunch 
business  of  his  place  run  on  with  only  the 
common  check  in  use  in  so  many  places, 
trusting  something  to  the  tried  old  em- 
ployes, whom  he  had  watched  for  years, 
and  much  to  his  own  keen  supervision  of 
receipts  and  expenditures;  but  in  his  res- 
taurant, where  the  amounts  of  the  bills 
were  larger  and  the  orders  more  compli- 
cated, he  had  a  system  of  double  checking, 
or  more  strictly  triple  checking,  which  was 
clumsy,  but  "it  woiked"  to  his  satisfaction. 
He  had  a  colored  headwaiter  and  a  white 
cashier — the  less  likely  to  be  too  friendly 
and  in  collusion  against  him — both  having 
the  same  desk  for  headquarters,  the  cashier 
of  course  seated,  the  headwaiter  here  and 
there  and  back  again.  When  a  customer 
came  in  and  ordered  from  the  bill  of  fare 
the  headwaiter  wrote  down  his  order  in 
full  with  the  money  total  added,  numbered 
it,  tore  the  leaf  from  the  tab  and  deposited 
it  like  a  ballot  in  a  box,  gave  the  waiter  the 
next  leaf,  which  was  a  duplicate  with  the 
same  number,  to  place  by  the  customer's 
plate,  and  so  went  on  with  the  next  order. 
When  the  customer  departed  he  brought 
his  check  to  the  cashier  and  paid  it,  and 
the  cashier  dropped  the  check  into  his 


ballot  box.  When  the  customer  ordered 
something  additional,  an  additional  num- 
bered check  was  given,  and  the  same  per- 
son might  have  four  or  five  checks  in  hand 
instead  of  one.  At  convenient  intervals 
the  proprietor  would  go  over  the  head- 
waiter's  original  checks  and  the  cashier's 
currency,  and  if  there  were  any  discrepan- 
cies the  matter  could  be  explained  while 
the  transaction  was  still  fresh  in  the  mind 
— as  it  might  have  occurred  that  Mr.  Such- 
a-number  refused  to  pay  for  a  certain  dish 
or  changed  his  order  to  something  else. 
In  this  case  the  headwaiter  was  required 
to  be  a  rapid  writer  and  the  business  was 
only  of  moderate  dimensions,  it  might  not 
have  worked  so  well  in  a  crowd. 

THE    HIDDEN    WATCH    SYSTEM. 

In  many  places  there  are  various  cash 
articles,  such  as  cigars,  drinks,  fruits,  con- 
fectionary, etc.,  sold  and  paid  for  at  the 
same  time  that  the  meal  check  from  the  res- 
taurant is  paid,  and  a  watch  is  placed  over 
the  cashier  to  keep  tally  of  the  things  sofd. 
Usually  this  is  an  elevated  box  like  a  pew 
in  a  church  with  a  curtain  screen,  in  which 
perhaps  the  proprietor's  wife,  or  some  such 
interested  person,  spends  part  or  most  of 
the  day ;  the  entrance  being  so  arranged 
that  the  party  handling  the  cash  never 
knows  when  the  watcher  is  absent,  if  ever. 
A  similar  watch  is  placed  in  some  estab- 
lishments over  the  order  department  in  the 
kitchen. 

THE    GREAT    AMERICAN    RESTAURANT 
SYSTEM. 

There  is  a  curious  though  distant  resem- 
blance between  the  most  carefully  con- 
ducted English  hotels  and  such  American 
restaurants  as  are  attached  to  the  great 
resort  hotels,  in  their  methods  of  dealing 
with  the  issuance  of  cooked  dishes  to  the 
waiters.  The  former  keep  the  cooking 
separate  from  the  carving  and  serving  de- 
partment. Each  joint  of  meat  or  measure 
of  cooked  vegetables  is  weighed  as  it  leaves 
the  kitchen  in  presence  of  a  clerk,  who 
enters  the  amount  in  a  book,  and  the  carv- 


96 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


ing  and  serving  department  is  required  to 
show  what  becomes  of  it  aftei  wards  and 
whether  each  dish  returned  a  profit  or  loss. 
The  great  restaurant  system  is  simpler. 
The  kitchen  sells  each  dish  outright  to  the 
waiter,  who  must  pay  for  what  he  calls  for 
and  sell  it  in  turn  to  the  customer  in  the 
dining  room.  It  may  be  observed  that  the 
Manhattan  Beach  bill  of  fare  has  at  the 
top  in  bold  type  this  notice:  "Guests  will 
pay  their  bills  to  the  waiters  and  see  that 
the  prices  charged  correspond  with  those 
in  the  bill  of  fare."  The  restaurant  is  al- 
ready secured ;  the  party  at  the  table  must 
see  to  it  that  the  waiter  does  not  impose 
upon  him,  charge  him  too  much ;  bring  a 
half  portion  and  charge  for  a  whole;  bring 
a  steak  for  one  and  obtain  pay  for  a  steak 
for  two. 

The  proprietors  of  one  of  these  crowded 
resort  restaurants,  whose  customers  are 
numbered  by  thousands  daily,  told  a  re- 
porter there  is  positively  no  other  way,  it 
is  the  only  method  possible  where  over  a 
huifdred  waiters  are  employed;  by  any 
other  plan  the  waiters  would  manage  to 
secure  all  the  profits  to  themselves. 

THE   BOUILLONS-DUVALS  SYSTEM. 

The  system  of  popular,  cheap  and  good 
Parisian  restaurants,  world-renowned  un- 
der the  name  of  the  Bouillons-Duvals, 
•have  received  the  most  unbounded  praise 
and  also  most  unmitigated  abuse,  yet  their 
growth  and  success  has  been  so  remarkable 
as  to  prove  their  excellence  and  value  in 
spite  of  all  detractors.  The  truth  seems  to 
be  that  they  disappoint  some  visitors  with 
their  small  portions  served,  their  bare 
marble  tables  without  tablecloths;  their 
female  waiters ;  a  certain  sort  of  want  of 
style ;  and  that  is  really  what  they  are  for 
and  why  they  succeed — they  are  popular 
restaurants.  But,  whatever  may  be  said, 
nobody  doubts  the  perfect  soundness  of  the 
methods  employed  to  secure  for  the  estab- 
lishment every  cent  of  the  money  it  earns, 
without  a  shadow  of  injustice  to  the  patron. 
This  is  the  system  which,  it  seems,  ought 
to  supersede  the  present  crowded  lunch 


counters  of  Chicago  and  all  other  large 
cities.  The  same  urgent  \\ant  of  a  place  to 
obtain  a  decent  meal  in  the  shortest  time 
and  at  a  small  cost  was  felt  in  the  great 
city  of  Paris  that  is  experienced  here,  and 
his  Duval  plan  proved  to  be  the  right 
thing  at  the  right  time.  Beginning  with 
one  small  soup  house  the  Duval  system 
has  grown  to  a  powerful  company  running 
over  fifty  restaurants  in  one  city,  their 
buying,  importing,  butchering  and  baking 
operations  being  now  of  as  great  magnitude 
as  if  all  the  hotels,  restaurants  and  lunch 
houses  of  Chicago  should  throw  their  trade 
into  one  pool, 'all  drawing  from  the  same 
supply  warehouses.  Bouillon- Duval  has 
a  rather  pretty  look  in  French,  but  in 
literal  English  it  is  but  Soup-Duval — we 
should  say  Soup-John's  restaurant.  Duval 
was  a  poor  butcher  who  in  1854  opened  a 
small  place  where  he  sold  at  first  nothing 
but  soup  and  beef,  the  Frenchman's  home 
fare,  bouilli-et- bouillon — boiled  beef  and  the 
broth  it  was  boiled  in — but  these  midday 
lunches  crowded  him  so  that  he  had  to 
move  into  larger  quarters  and,  needing 
assistance,  he  found  it  necessary  to  marry 
a  young  woman  who  was  quick  at  figures 
and  had  a  talent  for  business.  They  in- 
creased the  scope  of  their  restaurant  busi- 
ness somewhat  and  got  along  so  fast  that 
Duval  did  what  so  many  do  disastrously, 
he  rented  a  fine  and  expensive  building, 
furnished  it  "with  all  the  modern  improve- 
ments"— presumably  on  credit — and  also 
with  a  new  project  of  his  own;  a  scheme 
for  furnishing  free  soda  water  to  each  table 
and  put  in  the  necessary  apparatus.  But 
this  enterprise  broke  him  up.  He  came 
out  the  loser  of  about  $40,000.  Then  he 
began  again  in  a  small  way,  and  his  wife, 
looking  back  over  what  had  occurred, 
thought  she  saw  plainly  the  cause  of  their 
misfortune  in  the  reflection  that  when  they 
did  a  small  business  they  could  control  the 
receipts  themselves  and  secure  all  that  was 
coming  to  them ;  when  the  business  became 
so  large  that  their  employe's  had  part  con- 
trol they  lost.  Their  business  increased, 
or,  rather,  their  former  patrons  stuck  to 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


97 


them,  and  Madame  Duval  invented  the 
check  system  which  is  till  in  use  in  all  the 
Duval  establishments ;  it  is  called  the  key- 
stone of  the  whole  Duval  system.  After 
that  Duval  went  on  prospering  and  increas- 
ing the  number  of  his  restaurants.  He 
died  in  1870  worth  over  a  million.  He  had 
previously  converted  his  extensive  business 
into  a  joint  stock  affair,  himself  being  pre- 
sident of  the  company,  and  when  he  died 
his  widow  was  appointed  to  the  same  office 
in  his  place. 

One  distinguishing  peculiarity  of  the  Du- 
val system  is  its  dealing  in  very  small 
change ;  it  does  not  disdain  the  copper  cent. 
This  might  militate  against  its  adoption  in 
our  western  cities,  and  yet  it  must  be  re- 
membered that  the  one-cent  and  two-cent 
newspapers  were  met  at  the  start  with  the 
same  obstacle,  but  overcame  it.  In  a  Du- 
val restaurant,  while  a  person  must  pay  for 
what  he  orders,  he  needs  not  pay  even  for 
a  slice  of  bread  more  than  he  wants;  bread 
is  charged  for  the  same  as  anything  else, 
and  if  a  loaf  cost  four  cents  the  customer 
will  have  to  pay  only  i  cent  for  a  quarter. 
But  this  does  not  prevent  a  customer  from 
spending  as  many  dollars  as  he  pleases  in 
ordering  a  fine  dinner  with  wines  and 
extras. 

Another  is  the  employment  of  female 
waiters  only.  They  must  be  respectable 
married  women ;  all  are  dressed  in  a  sort 
of  uniform,  which  a  correspondent  likens 
to  the  Sisters  of  Charity;  the  reality  is, 
however,  the  establishment  supplies  them 
with  dresses  of  black  or  gray  alpaca,  white 
apron,  tulle  cap  and  white  linen  sleeves, 
and  a  silvered  brooch  bearing  their  num- 
ber in  plain  letters.  This  number  they 
are  obliged  to  mark  on  the  customer's 
ticket  when  taking  his  order.  They  each 
have  to  wait  on  sixteen  chairs ;  work  from 
nine  in  the  morning  until  nine  at  night, 
and  receive  twelve  dollars  per  month 
wages  and  two  meals  a  day.  It  is  supposed 
that  most  of  them  make  about  a  dollar  a 
day  average,  besides,  from  gratuities. 

The  Duval  system  of  checking,  upon 
which  so  much  stress  is  laid  and  with 


which  these  waitresses  have  much  to  do, 
consists  in  this:  A  person  entering  is 
handed  a  ticket  from  the  window  of  the 
controlleur,  a  bit  of  pasteboard  a  good  deal 
like  the  conductor's  check  showing  the 
towns  and  distances  on  our  railroads ;  it  is 
a  miniature  bill  of  fare  containing  some 
sixty  or  seventy  items  with  prices  at- 
tached. When  he  has  taken  his  seat  at 
a  table,  the  waitress  takes  his  ticket  and 
marks  a  charge  of  i  cent  for  "the  cover" — 
for  the  setting  of  the  plate,  knife  and  fork, 
salt  and  pepper  and  glass  of  water.  If  he 
wants  a  tablecloth  instead  of  the  bare 
marble,  he  can  have  one  for  an  additional 
cent;  if  ice  in  his  drinking  water  it  will  be 
one  cent  more,  and  then  he  goes  on  to 
order  his  lunch  or  dinner  of  pretty  much 
the  same  dishes  that  are  served  at  lunch 
houses  and  restaurants  of  the  cheaper  sort 
in  this  country.  The  prices  are  low,  but 
the  portions  served  are  likewise  small — 
they  are  such  portions  as  our  friends  the 
drummers  term  samples  and  kick  at  in 
some  of  our  really  excellent  hotels,  but  in 
either  place  the  hungry  man  can  order 
more.  The  Duval  waiters  will  bring  an- 
other portion  and  add  another  small  charge 
for  it  to  the  ticket,  in  fact  would  keep  on 
doing  so  all  day;  these  restaurants  sell  at 
the  cheapest  rate,  but  do  not  give  an  ounce 
of  anything  for  nothing. 

The  customer  on  departing  leaves  two 
or  three  cents  by  the  side  of  his  plate  for 
the  waitress,  takes  his  ticket  to  the  lady 
cashier  who  adds  up  the  amount,  takes  his 
money,  stamps  the  ticket  and  gives  it  back 
to  him  and  he  then  delivers  it  to  the  con- 
troller, from  whom  he  received  it,  as  he 
passes  out.  A  correspondent,  remarking 
upon  the  various  kinds  of  restaurants  in 
Paris,  says  there  is  no  possibility  of  collu- 
sion, the  system  is  a  perfect  protection.  •  In 
regard  to  a  quite  satisfactory  dinner  he  took 
in  company  with  a  friend,  he  says:  "We 
had  tapioca  soup,  fried  sole,  roast  beef  with 
potatoes  and  celery,  chicory  salad,  maca- 
roons, and  coffee,  ice  cream,  a  quart  and  a 
half  of  Sauterne,  and  a  pint  of  champagne. 
The  bill  was  exactly  thirteen  francs  or 


98 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


about  $2.47.  In  any  other  restaurant  that  I 
ever  dined  at  the  bill  would  certainly  have 
been  $5,  the  quality  of  the  food  being  the 
same.  In  New  York  the  amount  of  the  bill 
would  not  have  paid  for  the  wine." 

It  is  said  the  total  number  of  meals 
served  in  the  combined  Duval  restaurants 
of  Paris  aggregate  three  and  a  half  millions 
each  year. 

The  most  extensive  firm  of  London  res- 
taurant keepers,  Messrs.  Spiers  and  Pond, 
about  two  or  three  years  ago  started  a  Du- 
val restaurant  in  London,  which  doubtless 
is  running  yet.  It  was  patterned  after  the 
Paris  original  in  nearly  every  respect,  yet 
there  were  slight  modifications  made  to 
accord  better  with  British  tastes,  and  the 
prices  charged  were  considerably  higher 
than  the  original  Duval's.  An  enterpris- 
ing American  hotel  man,  who  is  now  the 
proprietor  of  the  Hotel  Bellevue,  Phila- 
delphia, a  year  or  two  ago  adopted  or  tried 
to  adopt  the  Duval  system  of  checking,  if 
nothing  else;  the  result  of  the  experiment 
is  not  known  to  the  one  writing  this.  It 
is  said  of  the  first  introduction  of  that  check 
system  in  Paris:  "There  was  at  first  some 
difficulty  in  inducing  the  public  to  accept 
the  card  on  entering,  while  many  refused 
to  give  it  up  on  leaving.  Ultimately,  how- 
ever, good  sense,  firmness  and  courtesy 
triumphed,  the  system  was  securely  estab- 
lished, and  thenceforth  the  success  of  Du- 
val was  assured." 

SPIERS    AND    POND'S    LONDON    RESTAU- 
RANTS. 

The  great  firm  of  London  caterers  men- 
tioned above  as  instituting  a  Duval  restau- 
rant in  the  English  capital  "on  trial,"  in 
that  proceeding  did  but  give  another  ex- 
ample of  the  wonderful  push  and  enter- 
prise which  has  made  them  famous  as  the 
leading  firm  in  the  refreshment  catering 
line  of  the  present  time,  probably  of  any 
rime,  for  the  number  and  magnitude  of 
their  contracts  have  no  parallel,  and  a  his- 
tory and  description  of  their  operations 
alone  would  fill  a  book.  Messrs.  Spiers 
and  Pond  (the  latter  recently  deceased)  are 


Australians  who  went  to  London  and  com- 
menced business  in  a  small  way.  The 
individuality  of  the  firm,  like  that  of  the 
Duval's  in  Paris,  was  merged  in  a  stock 
company  after  awhile,  and  the  most  re- 
markable of  their  operations  since  have 
been  in  the  line  of  catering  for  thousands 
at  a  time  at  expositions  and  celebrations. 
Still  they  have  a  number  of  restaurants  in 
operation  in  various  parts  of  the  great  city, 
the  largest  and  perhaps  the  best  represent- 
ative of  their  particularly  English  methods 
is  the  Criterion,  which  a  correspondent  of 
the  Boston  Advertiser  describes  as  follows : 

"  One  of  the  unique  fixtures  of  London, 
and  a  fixture  which  has  nothing  resem- 
bling it  in  any  city  of  the  United  States,  is 
the  far-famed  Criterion,  that  monster  pur- 
veyor to  the  wants  of  the  inner  man,  both 
fluid  and  solid. 

"New  York  has  her  Delmonico's  and 
Boston  has  her  Young's;  but  the  Criterion 
is  not  to  London  what  these  two  vast  eat- 
ing establishments  are  to  their  respective 
cities.  Both  Young's  and  Delmonico's 
cater  to  the  ultra-fashionable  class  to  a 
greater  or  less  extent,  while  that  class  of 
people  in  the  English  metropolis,  when 
they  dine  publicly  at  all,  frequent  the  Me- 
tropole,  the  Langham  or  the  Bristol.  Still, 
at  the  Criterion  one  finds  at  different  times 
almost  all  classes  of  people,  from  the 
countryman,  the  business  man,  the  how- 
ling swell,  up  to  that  class  which  just  falls 
short  of  the  '  very  nobs '  themselves. 

"  The  Criterion  fronts  on  Picadilly,  Re- 
gents Circus,  from  which  busy,  noisy  local- 
ity one  ascends  a  few  broad  steps  and  finds 
himself  in  the  main  dining  room  and  bar 
of  Messrs.  Spiers  and  Pond's  sumptuous 
eating  house.  You  find  none  of  that  gaudy 
show  in  decoration  which  is  peculiar  to  our 
American  bar  room  or  dining  hall.  Every- 
thing about  the  place  speaks  for  itself  in 
the  good,  true,  heavy,  old  English  style. 

"Your  attention  is  first  attracted  as  you 
enter  the  Criterion  by  the  stalwart  retainer, 
with  his  silver  chain  around  his  neck,  ready 
to  answer  any  and  all  questions  which  the 
new-comer  might  put  to  him,  and  to  direct 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


99 


you  this  way  or  that.  On  your  left  as  you 
enter  and  at  the  further  end  of  this  apart- 
ment is  what  to  the  native  American  might 
be  considered  as  the  most  peculiar  feature 
of  this  most  complete  establishment. 

"To  the  man  who  is  accustomed  to  order 
his  champagne  cocktail  or  his  gin-fizz  from 
a  row  of  '  bar-keeps,'  clad  in  their  spotless 
linen  and  duck,  their  whole  make-up  the 
very  pink  of  perfection,  the  sight  of  eight 
or  more  fine,  buxom,  wholesome  looking 
English  girls  behind  the  mahogany  would 
probably  be  a  novel,  not  to  say  a  pleasing 
and  interesting  picture.  At  any  rate,  pleas- 
ing or  displeasing,  this  is  in  store  for  him 
who  visits  the  Criterion,  and  the  writer 
believes  that  hundreds  of  visiting  Ameri- 
cans go  in  there  just  for  the  purpose  of 
feasting  the  eje  on  this  array  of  female 
talent. 

"These  bar  maids  are  all  of  them  selected 
for  their  fine  physique,  their  hair  cut  short, 
man  fashion,  their  white  collars  turned 
down  over  their  black  gowns.  They  are 
girls  of  good  repute,  attending  strictly  to 
their  business,  and  allowing  no  familiarity 
or  freedom  of  speech,  although  a  part  of 
their  stock  in  trade  is  to  be  possessed  of 
pleasing  and  taking  manners,  easy  flow  of 
words,  a  certain  knack  at  wholesome  re- 
partee, and  other  like  characteristics  which 
shall  command  a  certain  amount  of  custom. 
At  this  bar  you  will  find  groups  of  men, 
young  and  old,  calling  for  their  '  mug  of 
bitters,'  their  'thr' penny'  or  'fo'penny' 
glass  of  'cold  Irish'  or  'cold  Scotch,' 
and  these  latter  drinks  are  not  served  to 
the  customer  in  the  bottle,  with  the  priv- 
ilege of  taking  a  'bath'  or  anything  of  that 
sort.  If  you  call  for  a  'fo'penny  Irish' 
you  get  a  '  fo'penny  Irish '  and  no  more. 
Your  girl  in  black  draws  it  from  little 
wooden  kegs,  measuring  it  in  a  gauged 
measure,  pouring  it  into  the  glass  and 
setting  it  before  you. 

"  There  is  no  elaborate  display  of  glass- 
ware. Great  shining  'beer  pulls'  show 
themselves  at  stated  intervals,  and  heavy 
decanters  of  sherry,  port  and  other  wines 
are  in  sight  everywhere.  These,  together 


with  a  goodly  display  of  dainty  bits  just 
suited  for  the  noon-day  lunch,  and  not  for- 
getting the  girls  behind  it,  go  to  make  up 
the  furnishing  of  the  noted  bar.  Every- 
thing here  is  straight,  no  mixed  drinks 
be  ng  served. 

"Directly  opposite  the  bar  are  small  tables, 
placed  in  little  crescent-shaped  alcoves, 
around  which  are  luxuriously  upholstered 
wall  seats,  the  very  place  for  a  cozy  tete-a- 
tete  lunch  with  your  best  friend. 

"Do  you  wish  for  a  mixed  drink?  The 
place  for  that  is  the  American  bar,  In  a 
little  room  leading  off  the  main  room. 
Here  one  can  get  American  drinks  served 
in  the  most  approved  American  style.  The 
only  thing  about  them  that  might  not  be 
approved  by  all  Americans  is  that  the 
price  for  every  drink  served  over  this  bar 
is  one  shilling;  with  no  two-for-a-quarter 
transactions  about  them.  The  sherry  which 
you  pay  •  fo'penny'  for  at  the  large  bar  is 
the  identical  sherry  which  you  pay  a  shil- 
ling for  at  the  American  bar,  a  fact  which 
proves  that  one  must  know  the  ins  and 
outs  in  order  to  save  his  pence.  The 
American  bar  is  patronized  to  a  consider- 
able extent  by  Englishmen  as  well  as  by 
the  nationality  after  whom  it  takes  its 
name.  This,  as  well  as  the  main  room,  is 
patronized  by  the  American  colony  of 
actors  which  of  late  have  been  so  favorably 
received  in  London. 

"  Nearly  opposite  the  further  end  of  the 
bar  you  pass  through  an  embossed  glass 
door  and  down  the  easy  flight  of  steps 
which  lead  you  into  the  famous  'Grill 
Room.'  Placed  around  this  room  are  little 
tables  for  two,  covered  with  snow-white 
cloths.  Here  you  can  order  a  'chump 
chop,'  a  broiled  pork  sausage  with  broiled 
tomatoes,  all  of  which  dishes  are  specialties 
of  the  grill  room.  Steaks  or  cuts  from  the 
joints  are  served  here  in  the  most  approved 
English  style,  and  are  kept  nicely  hot  with 
little  pewter  covers  for  each  individual 
plate,  which  fit  over  it  to  perfection.  In 
this  room  the  patrons  are  of  a  more  solid 
character,  with  here  and  there  the  pater- 
familias with  his  rosy-cheeked  daughters 


100 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


in  town  for  a  day's  shopping.  There  is  a 
back  entrance  to  the  grill  room  from  Jer- 
myn  street,  by  means  of  which  ladies  can 
enter  without  being  obliged  to  run  the 
gauntlet  of  observing  eyes  in  front  of  the 
bar.  As  you  pass  out  of  the  back  entrance 
you  run  accross  one  of  those  omnipresent 
'drop-in-a-penny '  affairs,  by  means  of 
which  you  may  obtain  a  finely  flavored 
Egyptian  cigarette  if  you  wish  it. 

"  The  two  stories  above  the  main  room 
are  fitted  up  with  special  rooms,  set  apart 
for  different  classes  of  dining.  As  you  go 
up  the  stairs  yr>u  meet  with  placards,  for 
instance,  on  which  you  read  '  Diner  Pari- 
sien,  5  francs,'  and  on  which  placard  is 
given  the  bill  of  fare  for  the  day.  On  an- 
other you  will  see  '  Dinner,  5  shillings,'  to- 
gether with  an  English  menu.  In  this 
French  dining  room  the  waiters  are  all 
French  and  small  individual  tables  are 
daintily  set,  each  table  lighted  by  candela- 
bras  in  the  evening,  placed  in  the  centre 
and  shedding  a  soft  and  pleasant  light  over 
the  room.  The  English  dinner  is  such  as 
•would  meet  the  requirements  of  the  purely 
English  good-liver.  Other  rooms  are  de- 
voted to  the  use  of  private  parties. 

"  Perhaps  one  of  the  pleasant  features  of 
the  Criterion  is  what  is  known  as  the 
•Glee  Dinner.'  The  room  where  this  is 


given  occupies  almost  the  entire  upper 
floor  of  the  building,  and  is  a  very  large 
and  spacious  apartment,  with  tables  hold- 
ing from  four  to  a  dozen,  the  whole  room 
capable  of  seating  200  or  more.  The  din- 
ner costs  you  'three  and  six,'  with  three 
pence  additional  for  attendance.  For  this 
moderate  sum  you  get  soup,  fish,  choice  of 
several  joints,  choice  of  several  entrees, 
choice  of  several  vegetables,  followed  by  a 
sweet.  The  attractive  feature,  however, 
is  the  music  given  by  a  chorus  of  glee 
singers  to  while  away  the  waits  between 
the  courses.  On  a  raised  platform  at  one 
end  of  the  room  is  a  double  quartet  of  men 
and  a  dozen  or  more  boys,  chosen  from 
the  churches,  who  sing  old  English  glees 
at  intervals  during  the  evening,  while  din- 
ner is  going  on,  and  the  music  is  really 
admirable. 

"  Such  are  a  few  of  the  many  features  of 
the  Criterion.  The  whole  establishment 
is  over  the  Criterion  Theatre,  where 
Wyndham's  famous  company  nightly  de- 
light London  audiences,  and  which  theatre 
is,  as  every  one  knows,  entirely  below  the 
street  level.  In  coming  out  of  the  building 
you  find  yourself  once  more  in  busy  Picca- 
dilly with  its  continuously  passing  throng, 
and  you  say  to  your  friend,  '  See  you  again 
to-morrow  night  in  the  glee  room  at  six.' " 


CLUB  STEWARDING  AND  CATERING. 


Clubs  having  no  "proprietor"  or  one 
who  stands  in  the  hotel  landlord's  place, 
are  organized  as  to  their  eating  and  drink- 
ing departments  in  either  of  these  two 
ways:  The  smaller  clubs  have  a  house 
committee  which  hires  a  steward  and  puts 
him  in  full  charge  of  the  culinary  depart- 
ment, holding  him  accountable  in  monthly 
statements  to  the  committee,  when  his 
books  are  required  to  show  whether  the 
kitchen  is  making  or  losing  money  for  the 
club.  As  the  club  members  are  tacitly 


expected,  but  not  bound,  to  take  their 
meals  and  extra  suppers  at  the  club  the 
steward's  ability  as  a  caterer  to  set  an  at- 
tractive table  often  has  a  telling  effect 
upon  the  club's  prosperity. 

Some  of  the  largest  and  most  noted  clubs 
of  the  world  pursue  a  different  plan  and 
appoint  a  caterer,  who  acts  very  much  in 
the  position  of  an  independent  tradesman, 
agreeing  to  furnish  the  meals,  whether 
regular  or  private,  entirely  on  his  own 
responsibility,  taking  his  own  risks  of  sell- 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


101 


ing  or  not  selling  and  rendering  accounts 
to  no  one  but  himself,  being  really  the 
restaurant-keeper  of  the  club's  restaurant, 
with  an  established  scale  of  prices  and 
making  all  he  can  out  of  the  club's  patron- 
age. Such  a  caterer  has  to  employ  inside 
stewards  and  all  other  employe's  very  much 
the  same  as  a  hotel  proprietor  does,  the 
special  difference  being  that  the  caterer  is 
usually  chosen  by  the  club  on  account  of 
his  being  already  a  renowned  cook,  who 
will  exercise  his  special  function  for  the 
club's  benefit,  and  in  that  respect  he  is  far 
different  from  the  mere  refreshment  con- 
tractors, who  undertake  the  feeding  of  a 
multitude  at  so  much  per  head.  To  be  the 
steward  of  a  club  is  not  materially  different 
from  being  steward  of  a  first-class  hotel, 
where  a  man  to  fill  the  position  must  be 
well  up  in  party  giving;  in  small,  but  ex- 
pensive suppers,  and  he  must  have  a 
knowledge  of  wines  and  liquors,  more 
intimate  and  critical  than  the  average 
hotel  steward  has  any  need  of. 

ABOUT    CLUBS    IN    GENERAL. 

A  good  deal  has  been  said  about  the 
difficulty  of  filling  the  positions  offered  by 
club  houses,  and  it  is  true  that  only  a  few 
men  are  adapted  to  become  the  abject  ser- 
vants which  the  aristocratic  club  idea  re- 
quires them  to  be.  There  are  in  the  largest 
cities  healthful  and  useful  sorts  of  clubs, 
like  the  Union  League  Club  of  Chicago, 
where  business  men  derive  real  benefit 
from  having  a  central  place  of  their  own 
in  which  to  lunch  or  dine,  to  take  a  friend 
and  pass  an  evening.  They  order  from 
their  own  kitchen  whatever  special  dishes 
they  please,  but  at  the  same  there  is  a  reg- 
ular lunch  and  dinner  prepared  by  the  best 
cooks,  who  are  allowed  the  same  freedom 
to  make  the  bill  of  fare  include  their  own 
best  dishes  and  specialties  that  they  would 
be  accorded  in  any  fine  hotel,  much  to  the 
advantage  of  the  members,  who  thus  bene- 
fit by  whatever  their  employes'  experience 
may  have  taught  them.  Some  clubs  in  Lon- 
don and  elsewhere  have  been  noted  for  cer- 
tain specialties  in  diet,  the  same  as  many  res- 


taurants, and  the  club  members  anywh.re 
are  proud  of  any  such  distinguishment. 

About  the  "softest  job"  for  a  steward 
who  is  not  over-scrupulous  is  to  be  found 
in  the  provincial  club  of  some  small  town. 
These  clubs  are  little  more  than  drinking 
houses  in  disguise,  probably  genteel  gamb- 
ling houses  as  well.  The  members  affect 
the  airs  of  large  city  clubs,  but  are  not 
numerous  nor  wealthy  enough  to  support 
the  pretention.  For  waiters  they  have 
lackeys  dressed  in  swallow-tail  coats  with 
brass  buttons,  who  are  required  to  tremble 
when  they  frown,  and  they  do  frown  ter- 
ribly when  the  waiter,  who  has  to  put 
i he  suger  in  their  tea  and  stir  it  up  for 
them,  makes  the  dreadful  error  of  putting 
in  three  lumps  when  he  ought  to  know 
they  never  take  but  two.  They  have  a 
steward  upon  whom  they  rest  all  the  care' 
and  responsibility  of  running  their  kitchen, 
restaurant  and  liquor  "  cellar."  They  are 
usually  in  debt  for  their  building  and  losing, 
money  every  month  besides,  and,  while  a 
church  society  in  such  a  case  can  resort  to 
various  means  of  raising  the  indebtedness, 
the  club  is  too  proud  to  do  anything  but 
suffer.  But  all  this  does  not  affect  the 
steward's  position  or  lessen  its  value.  Only 
the  club  members  are  to  be  pitied.  They 
are  obliged  to  spend  their  money  at  the 
club  restaurant  and  take  their  meals  there 
to  help  it  along,  and  obliged  to  buy  the 
wines  and  suppers  for  their  friends  there, 
although  the  fact  of  the  club's  being  in 
debt  is  excuse  enough  for  everything  being 
charged  for  higher  than  would  be  the  case 
at  Delmonico's  in  New  York.  But  "  they 
that  dance  must  pay  the  fiddler;"  the  stew- 
ard who  finds  himself  in  such  a  position 
must  expect  frequent  changes  to  occur  and 
must  do  the  best  he  can.  As  the  club 
system  combines,  at  least  in  the  case  of 
business  men's  clubs,  both  the  table  d'hote 
or  hotel  plan  for  regular  club  boarders  and 
the  restaurant  or  private  party  plan,  an 
intimate  knowledge  of  both  is  required  by 
the  club  steward  and  a  special  readiness  to 
tell  how  much  such  a  meal  will  cost  for 
how  many. 


102 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


PARTY   CATERING. 

The  tendency  to  choose  the  principal 
hotels  of  a  city  as  the  place  to  give  party 
spreads  as  well  as  public  banquets  is  on 
the  increase,  and  it  is  now  the  case  that  in 
some  of  the  largest  there  is  scarcely  a  night 
in  the  week  during  the  winter  season  that 
one  or  several  such  entertainments  do  not 
take  place,  and  it  has  come  to  be  a  part  of 
the  hotel  business  and  is  provided  for  with 
special  dining  halls  and  all  proper  catering 
appliances  to  a  great  extent  independent  of 
the  regular  daily  business.  Where  such 
arrangements  are  made  for  the  purpose, 
:he  probabtlities  of  the  little  supper  or  the 
fashionable  reception  or  grand  banquet 
being  served  in  a  satisfactory  manner  are 
much  greater  than  when  it  is  ordered  from 
some  professed  caterer's  independent  es- 
tablishment, the  latter  having  to  contend 
with  the  scarcely  surmountable  difficulties 
of  transporting  the  prepared  food  and  re- 
freshments in  wagons  through  the  streets 
to  their  destination  with  all  the  shaking 
up,  mixing  and  disarrangements  attending 
such  an  operation.  The  experienced  ca- 
terer is  always  seeking  means  and  appli- 
ances to  prevent  such  damage,  and  the 
successful  men  are  those  who  accomplish 
most  in  the  way  of  prevention.  However, 
the  hotel  has  immense  advantages  in  that 
respect. 

The  stewards  in  such  cases  are  called 
upon  to  meet  requirements  as  widely  dif- 
ferent as  can  be  imagined ;  the  character 
of  the  entertainments  running  through  all 
stages  from  the  most  economically  planned 
charitable  affairs  to  the  most  elaborate  and 
costly  complimentary  banquets,  and  noth- 
ing is  more  common  than  for  two  just  such 
extremes  to  meet  on  the  same  night  in  the 
same  hotel.  While  I  propose  to  give  some 
examples  of  actual  spreads  with  the 
amounts  of  provisions  consumed  and  the 
cost,  I  will  say  plainly  that  they  are  far 
less  likely  to  help  the  inexperienced  stew- 
ard than  will  be  the  learning  of  a  few  fun- 
damental rules,  which  I  have  found  so  use- 
ful myself  as  to  regard  them  as  infallible. 


I  will  name  them  in  order  and  also  note 
the  exceptions  and  occasional  disappoint 
ments,  which  are  in  the  nature  of  accidents 
which  nobody  can  entirely  guard  against. 
But  first  as  to 

MISTAKES    IN    ENTERTAINING. 

We  can  never  find  out  from  the  pub- 
lished reports  in  the  newspapers  whether 
an  entertainment  tendered  for  some  speci- 
fic purpose  was  satisfactory  to  those  en- 
tertained or  not,  particularly  if  the  good 
name  of  the  town  is  involved,  it  is  the  pa- 
pers' business  to  say  the  pleasant  things 
and  leave  the  unpleasant  unsaid,  and  com- 
mon politeness  compels  the  guests  if  dis- 
appointed to  keep  their  thoughts  to  them- 
selves, or  at  least  among  themselves,  and 
so  we  can  go  on  committing  the  same 
blunders  over  again.  I  venture  to  think 
that  grave  mistakes  are  being  made  con- 
stantly when  complimentary  dinners  and 
suppers  are  tendered  through  the  hotel 
trying  to  "  show  off  "  too  much,  at  the  ex- 
pence  of  the  enjoyment  of  the  people  en- 
tertained. As  caterers,  stewards  and  cooks 
we  are  not  always  responsible  for  this,  for 
those  who  order  must  have  style  at  what- 
ever sacrifice,  but  as  we  are  often  consulted 
and  frequently  given  entire  control  I  will 
show  what  seems  to  me  to  be  mistakes  by 
two  or  three  instances. 

An  excursion  party  of  prominent  men 
from  a  distant  state,  numbering  about 
twenty,  went  to  a  noted  summer  hotel 
upon  invita'ion  of  the  proprietors  in  the 
height  of  the  season  and  arrived  just  as 
dinner  was  beginning.  If  the  real  enjoy- 
ment of  these  guests  and  enduring  pleas- 
ant memories  of  the  visit  had  been  the 
chief  thought  and  object  of  the  entertain- 
ers, they  would  have  been  delayed  half  an 
hour,  perhaps  an  hour,  and  then  conducted 
to  the  best  tables,  given  good  waiters  and 
the  very  same  bill  of  fare  which  the  hund- 
red or  two  of  gaily-dressed,  summer-enjoy- 
ing regular  guests  were  deriving  pleasant 
satisfaction  from ;  they  would  have  chosen 
as  they  pleased,  had  sociable  surroundings, 
could  have  finished  dinner  in  an  hour  and 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


103 


made  to  feel  at  home.  The  only  man  con- 
sulted about  it  chose  differently,  however, 
and  thought  nothing  would  do  justice  to 
the  occasion  but  a  dinner  in  about  ten 
courses,  and  as  it  was  neither  advisable 
nor  practicable  to  cook  a  fresh  dinner  some 
portion  of  the  regular  dinner — already  old 
— was  saved.  The  guests  were  kept  wait- 
ing for  two  hours  after  arrival,  a  special 
long  table  was  set  lonesomely  enough  in  a 
corner  of  the  great  dining  room  and  the 
tedious  course  dinner  doled  into  the  poor 
fellows  through  two  weary  hours,  they 
being  forced  to  sit  and  submit  for  polite- 
ness' sake,  although  before  they  got 
through  the  other  watch  of  waiters  was 
buzzing  around  them  preparing  the  tables 
for  the  next  grand  meal.  The  published 
resolutions  of  thanks  in  the  papers  next 
day  were  ail  right,  yet  I  don't  believe  they 
enjoyed  the  visit  or  the  dinner  or  would 
consent  to  go  through  it  all  again,  and 
don't  think  that  was  the  way  they  should 
have  been  treated.  What  did  they  care 
whether  that  particular  headwaiter  knew 
how  to  serve  dinners  in  courses  or  not? 
They  were  on  a  summer  pleasure  trip  and 
wanted  summer  fare  and  lightsomeness. 

A  similar  affair  occurred  in  another 
place  where  the  guests — also  an  excursion 
party  present  by  invitation — did  express 
their  impatience  with  a  too  tedious  banquet 
and  arose  and  left  it  unfinished.  They 
were  well-known  capitalists,  about  seventy 
in  the  party,  and  had  been  feasted,  recep- 
tioned  and  banqueted  to  the  limit  of  endur- 
ance and  came  to  this  place  at  night  tired. 
The  proprietors,  just  retiring  from  the 
business,  seized  the  opportunity  to  make  a 
parting  display  and,  instead  of  the  informal 
little  reception  at  first  .intended,  spread 
themselves  out  and  made  a  really  elaborate 
and  expensive  banquet  in  ten  courses. 
The  guests  intended  to  be  honored  sat 
down  and  managed  to  contain  their  impa- 
tience while  course  after  course  was  rushed 
in  with  all  possible  expedition  until  they 
had  endured  nearly  two  hours  of  it,  when 
they  incontinently  rose,  locked  the  doors 
that  led  in  from  the  kitchen,  marched  out 


of  the  front  doors  and  went  to  bed,  leaving 
the  remaining  one  third  of  the  luxuries  for 
whom  it  might  concern.  And  they  did 
just  right. 

The  next  instance  of  overdoing  was  not 
stamped  a  mistake  in  any  such  emphatic 
way,  and  the  local  papers  were  good 
enough  to  apply  their  choicest  terms  of 
praise  after  it  was  over,  yet  I  have  it  among 
my  foremost  examples  of  blunders  in  this 
line.  About  200  Knights,  of  no  matter 
what  order,  from  a  western  city  were  to  be 
entertained  by  the  local  lodge  of  a  country 
town  acting  as  a  committee  for  the  town, 
the  citizens  at  large  having  subscribed  to 
defray  the  expenses.  They  let  the  job  to 
a  caterer  for  a  set  sum  and  left  everything 
to  his  discretion,  only  evincing  an  excus- 
able anxiety  to  have  the  affair  redound  to 
the  credit  of  the  town.  Two  or  three 
assistants  were  set  to  work  and  decorated 
dishes  usur  sccle"  and  tall  cakes  were  pre- 
pared and  a  stylish  sort  of  menu  for  a  hot 
supper  prepared,  with  green  turtle  soup  in 
the  foreground  and  oysters  occupying  a 
rather  modest  place  in  the  rear.  The  sup- 
per passed  off  successfully  and,  as  already 
said,  received  plenty  of  newspaper  praise. 
The  grand  mistake  consisted  in  not  making 
it  a  grand  fried  oyster  supper,  as  the  event 
showed,  for  the  green  turtle  soup,  so  far 
from  being  appreciated  as  a  luxury  in  that 
far  western  country,  was  absolutely  not 
even  called  for  while  the  oysters  in  every 
style  could  not  be  served  fast  enough  by 
all  the  hands  available.  The  line  of  rea- 
soning had  been  that  oysters  were  too 
common  to  make  a  fine  entertainment 
even  there,  for  oysters  in  bulk  frozen  were 
plentiful  and  every  little  party  and  every 
sort  of  festival  had  been  serving  oysters 
till  there  was  nothing  so  common.  It 
made  no  difference,  however,  the  200 
wanted  oysters  and  cared  for  nothing  else. 
The  supplies  had  been  laid  in  so  judiciously 
that  fried  oysters  could  be  and  were  served 
half  a  dozen  to  each  person,  and  stewed 
oysters  without  limit,  so  there  was  no  mis- 
fortune. What  was  wanted  to  make  that 
the  most  memorable  feast  those  Knights 


104 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


and  ladies  had  ever  attended  was  a  plate 
of  a  dozen  double-breaded  large  oysters, 
properly  garnished  in  Chicago  oyster 
house  style,  with  more  in  reserve  if  the 
dozen  did  not  suffice,  and  two-thirds  of  the 
rest  of  the  banquet  might  have  been  left 
unmade,  and  one  day's  work  of  preparation 
would  have  made  more  real  success  than 
the  three  days  and  nights  that  were  really 
consumed  in  it. 

RULES    FOR    PARTY    CATERING. 

i.  Never,  if  possible  to  avoid  it,  agree 
to  furnish  refreshments  for  a  party  without 
having  the  committee  to  bind  itself  to  pay 
for  some  certain  number  whether  they 
come  or  not.  Four  times  out  of  five  where 
it  is  a  pay  party  there  will  be  fewer  people 
in  attendance  than  were  expected,  and  the 
hotel  keeper  or  caterer  who  agrees  for  so 
nuch  per  head  has  to  lose  all  that  he  has 
prepared  in  excess,  when  it  sometimes  is 
the  case  that  not  more  than  a  fourth  of 
those  provided  for  ever  come.  It  is  made 
the  worse  for  the  caterer  because  'he  mem- 
bers of  the  committee  are  apt  to  become 
excited  over  prospective  numbers  and  in- 
duce the  provider  of  the  feast  at  his  own 
risk  to  provide  excessive  amounts ;  if  on 
their  own  risk  they  will  be  more  cautious. 
A  few  months  previous  to  this  writing  a 
hotel  manager  was  applied  to  to  furnish 
dinner  on  a  stated  day  for  500  locomotive 
engineers  on  their  annual  celebration,  and 
acting  on  advice,  the  same  as  above  laid 
down,  obtained  a  contract  for  500  dinners 
at  a  dollar  a  head.  The  hotel  was  already 
crowded,  but  by  an  effort,  such  as  hotel 
people  can  make  when  they  try  themselves, 
the  extra  500  dinners  were  prepared  and 
the  crowd  arrived  on  time,  but  only  360 
came,  and  they  were  well  entertained. 
There  was,  of  course,  a  surplus  left  over 
of  about  140  dinners,  but  the  hotel  man- 
ager having  his  contract  all  right  got  his 
pay  for  them  and  was  so  much  ahead.  In 
too  many  cases  the  result  is  different;  the 
hotel  man  takes  the  risk,  loses  the  140 
meals  and  thereby  loses  all  his  profits  on 
the  transaction  and  works  for  nothing. 


When  it  is  a  free  or  complimentary  feast, 
the  proper  way  is  to  contract  for  the  prob- 
able number  and  agree  to  feed  all  above 
that  number  at  a  certain  price  per  head. 

2.  When  agreeing  to  furnish  refresh- 
ments bear  in  mind  that  the  number  agreed 
for  does  not  represent  all ;  there  will  be 
musicians,  drivers,  attendants,  press  repre- 
sentatives, and  various  "complimentaries" 
not  counted  by  the  committee ;  calculations 
must  be  made  for  these,  especially  in  an 
expensive  spread,  and  the  price  made  ac- 
cordingly.    It  may  be  a  quail  or  terrapin 
supper,  where  it  will  not  be  practicable  to 
make  distinctions   among  those  who  eat 
and  twenty,  thirty  or  forty  "compliment- 
aries" may  consume  all  the  profits  if  the 
caterer  allows  his  estimate  and  contract  to 
run  within  too  narrow  margins,  particu- 
larly when  the  affair  is  but  thinly  attended. 

3.  If  your  hotel  waiters,  cooks,  pantry- 
men, dishwashers  and  others  do  the  extra 
work  of  a  party  without  extra  cost  to  you, 
that  is  no  affair  of  the  party-givers,  the 
prices   charged  ought  to  cover  the  extra 
work  done  by  the  hands.    All  other  trades 
and  professions  charge  their  customers  for 
the  labor  of  their  employes,  and  charge  a 
profit  upon  that  labor  besides,  and  there  is 
no  reason  why  hotel  keepers  should  do  dif- 
ferently. 

4.  Never,  unless  for  very  special  reasons, 
agree  to  furnish  refreshments  "just  for  the 
fun  of  the  thing,"  imagining  that  as  the  ho- 
tel is  already  running  it  will  not  really  cost 
anything.     Such  extra  spreads  disarrange 
your    store-room    keeper's   accounts    and 
make  extra  book-keeping;  they  make  tired 
help  and  poor  meals  and  poor  service  for 
the  hotel  next  day,  perhaps  for  several  days, 
and   great  incidental  waste  and   expenses 
which  the  proprietor  scarcely  knows  of  ex- 
cept in  the  final  reckoning.  The  very  special 
reasons  noted  may  be  the  necessity  of  ad- 
vertising a  new  hotel;  a  sort  of  throwing 
bread  upon  the  waters.  Thebread  costs  some- 
thing, perhaps  a  good  deal,  nevertheless. 

While  the  foregoing  rules  are  principally 
directed  to  hotel-keepers,  the  next  is  a  most 
valuable  guide  to  every  sort  of  caterer  and 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


105 


provider  of  meals,  and  ought  to  be  kept  in 
memory.  The  worst  feature  of  hotel  party- 
giving  is  the  large  excess  of  provisions 
always  prepared  and  left  over;  the  prepar- 
ing of  twice  as  much  as  will  be  needed. 
The  fear  that  there  may  not  be  enough  is 
the  reason  of  this  superabundance,  when 
feasts  are  prepared  without  any  basis  of 
calculation,  yet  it  is  easy  to  know  in  ad- 
vance how  much  will  be  consumed  by  any 
given  number. 

5.  One  hundred  people  at  a  party  will 
eat  one  hundred  pounds  of  food  and  drink 
one  hundred  pints  of  fluids. 

That  is,  each  person  on  an  average  eats 
a  pound  and  drinks  a  pint. 

One  hundred  women  eat  less  than  the 
same  number  of  men  —  many  men  eat 
much  more  than  a  pound,  but  in  a  mixed 
gathering  the  average  remains  as  stated. 

6.  To  furnish  one  hundred  pounds  of 
cooked  meat,  it  is  necessary  to  buy  two 
hundred  pounds,  because  meats  in  an  aver- 
age way  lose  half  their  weight  in  cooking 
and    trimming.       Chickens    and    turkeys 
lose  more  than  half  their  raw  weight,  hams 
and  tongues  lose  less ;  fresh  meats  and  fish 
just  about  half;   consequently  the  calcula- 
tion of  two  hundred  pounds  of  raw  meats, 
poultry  and  fish  for  one  hundred  persons 
is  near  enough  for  the  average  and  is  a 
rule  easy  to  remember. 

7.  As  each  person  at  a  party  will  eat  a 
pound  of  something,  where   cheapness   is 
demanded  the  feast  should  be  made  up  as 
much  as  possible  of  things  made  of  flour, 
sugar  and,  sometimes,  eggs.     A  supper  of 
all  sorts  of  fancy  yeast-raised  cakes  with 
lemonade  or  ice  cream  can  be  furnished 
for  a  few  cents  per  head,  while  nothing  in 
the  meat  line  can  be  served  for  less  than 
fifty   cents   and   upwards, — to   serve  only 
one- half  of  a  canvas-back   duck   to   each 
person  may  cost  one  dollar  per  head  for 
that  one  item  alone. 

8.  Allow  one  quail  for  each  person  and 
one-third  more  as  a  reserve  for  repeated 
orders  at  a  quail  supper  or  breakfast,  but 
half  a  quail  is  enough  for  each  person  at  a 
course  dinner,  when  quail  forms  the  game 


course.  Smaller  birds  such  as  snipe  can 
not  be  divided.  Spring  chickens  should 
be  calculated  to  serve  half  a  chicken  to 
each  person,  but  a  good  deal  depends  upon 
their  sizes  and  upon  the  consideration 
whether  chicken  is  to  be  the  leading  dish 
of  the  meal  or  only  a  part  of  a  dinner  of 
many  courses. 

9.  To  know  how  much  of  each  kind  of 
meat,  game  or  fish  will  be  required  in  an 
ample  feast  calculate  that  each  person  eats 
two  ounces  of  each  kind — a  cut  of  beef  or 
ham  weighs  about  two  ounces,  a  quarter 
of  a  young  chicken  about  two  ounces,  an 
ordinary  helping  of  fish  about  two  ounces, 
sandwiches  weigh  one  or  two  ounces  each 
according  to   the   thinness  of  the  bread. 
Eight  different   kinds  of  food   served   in 
two-ounce  portions  will  make  up  the  pound 
that  fills  the  capacity  of  the  human  stom- 
ach for  solids. 

10.  Guard    against    disaster  by  being 
well  fortified  with  a  reserve  of  ice  cream 
and  cake,  cold  chicken  or  turkey  and  ham 
sandwiches.     The  feast  may  be  all  con- 
sumed, the  dinner  or  supper  over,  but  if 
these  things  remain  all  the  late   arrivals 
can  be  made  happy. 

11.  In  some  cases,  such  as  winter  ex- 
cursion parties,  the  one  thing  of  paramount 
importance   is   hot    coffee   and   means   of 
getting  it  served  in  short  order.     In  all 
cases  the  coffee  is  the  first  consideration. 
Provide  three-fourths  of  a  pint — that  is  two 
cups — for  each  person  expected,  or  nine 
gallons  for  a  hundred  people.     This  will 
require  four  and  a  half  pounds  of  ground 
coffee  or  a  pound  for  two  gallons  of  ordi- 
nary  coffee,  but  for  strong  coffee  for  a 
regular  dinner  a  pound  to  one  gallon  is 
required  and  less  than  half  the  quantity  of 
coffee  is  wanted  by  each  person   than  is 
necessary  to  provide  for  an  excursion. 

12.  For  an  oyster  supper  calculate  a 
pint  of  soup  or  stew  for  each  peison,  made 
up  of  one-half  oysters  (raw  measure)  and 
one  half  milk.     As  both  oysters  in  bulk 
and  milk  are  bought  by  the  gallon  this  is 
an  easy  calculation,  it  is  twelve  gallons  for 
one  hundred  persons  of  which  six  gallons 


106 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


are  bulk  oysters  and  six  gallons  milk.  But 
the  oysters  yield  a  large  amount  of  liquor 
in  cooking,  and  when  the  stews  are  made 
in  these  proportions  the  result  will  be  only 
one-third  or  even  one-fourth  of  cooked 
oysters  in  a  bowl  of  oyster  stew. 

13.  Large  and  choice  oysters  for  frying 
are  bought  by  the  hundred.     A  dozen  will 
fill  an  ordinary  coffee  cup.     A  dozen  is  a 
portion  for  an  oyster  supper;  four  to  six 
for  each   person   are   plenty   for  a  hotel 
breakfast.     When  oysters  form  part  of  a 
course  dinner  four  to  six  for  each  person 
are  enough ;  that  will  be  a  cupful  of  selects 
for  three  persons,  or  four  or  five  gallons  of 
large  oysters  for  a  hundred  persons.     It 
will  readily  be  understood  that  there  is  a 
great  difference  between  the  requirements 
of  the  boarders  at  a  hotel  table,  where 
oysters  are  served  as  commonly  as  beef  or 
bread,  and  a  party  supper  where  the  people 
come  especially  to  eat  oysters. 

14.  Dinners  served  in  courses  require 
the  preparation  of  greater  quantities  than 
for  ordinary  meals  or  party  suppers,  for 
two  reasons:  first,  although  all  persons  do 
not  eat  the  same  things  and  some  will  eat 
the  relishes  or  vegetables  and  not  touch 
the  fish  or  meat  that  is  set  before  them, 
yet  it  is  necessary  to  place  upon  the  table 
enough   for  every   one  of  each   separate 
course,  and  some  of  the  dishes  may  be  re- 
turned  to   the  kitchen   scarcely  touched; 
and,  second,  the   usual   long  duration  of 
course  dinners,  being  anywhere  from  one 
to  three  hours,  allows  the  stomach  to  be- 
come partially  emptied  of  the  first  suste- 
nance and  enables  people  to  actually  eat 
more  at  a  sitting  than  the  average  suffici- 
ency.   They  sit  and  perhaps  sip  stimulants 
until  they  almost   become  hungry  ag&in, 
and  the  caterer  may  as  well  make  his  cal- 
culations double  for  such   occasions  and 
his  charges  according.     However,  nature 
will  assert  itself  at  last  and  the  caterer  gets 
even  who  has  to  furnish  a  few  succeeding 
meals  to  the  same  persons. 

SOME    EXCEPTIONS. 

And  now,  having  penned  down  the  fore- 
going rules  which  experience  has  shown 


me  are  reliable  guides  to  base  calculations 
upon — most  especially  the  pound-to-a-per- 
son  rule,  the  pint-of-fluids  rule  and  the 
two-ounce-portion  rule, — I  am  obliged  to 
talk  over  some  exceptional  cases,  for  fear 
some  unguarded  young  business  man  may 
be  led  into  trouble  through  placing  a  too 
implicit  faith  in  people.  Our  calculations 
are  made  for  the  class  of  people  one  ex- 
pects to  meet  at  a  genteel  party  gathering 
and  for  well-fed  and  discriminating  hotel 
boarders,  who  do  not  generally  fast  a  whole 
day  beforehand  to  make  ready  to  gorge 
themselves  at  the  caterer's  spread  at  night 
It  is  a  good  many  years  ago,  though  I  re- 
member it  as  if  yesterday,  a  young  fellow 
recently  started  in  the  restaurant  and  bak- 
ing business,  came  to  me  at  the  hotel  where 
I  was  employed  and  said  he  had  just  been 
offered  the  contract  to  furnish  supper  for 
200  at  fifty  cents  per  head ;  should  he  take 
it?  The  occasion  was  a  cheap  ball  at  a 
dollar  a  head  including  supper,  to  take 
place  in  a  public  hall.  Being  like  all  new 
beginners,  anxious  to  secure  a  run  of  busi- 
ness, he  concluded  he  would  and  asked  me 
to  help  him  with  his  calculations.  I  had 
no  rules  to  work  by  then,  but  we  argued 
that  as  the  hotels  could  furnish  such  a  good 
and  abundant  dinner  as  they  do  for  fifty 
cents,  there  must  certainly  be  a  good  profit 
to  be  made  out  of  a  cold  supper  at  the  same 
price,  no  very  elaborate  work  being  de- 
manded nor  anything  particularly  expens- 
ive. Then  we  sized  up  the  amount  of 
dinner  that  would  be  needed  in  a  hotel  for 
200,  and  he  proceeded  on  that  basis  and 
made  ready  for  the  night.  But  a  terrible 
night  he  had  of  it.  He  set  his  pretty  tables 
as  a  young  fellow  will,  with  whole  chick- 
ens, hams  and  tongues  decorated,  expect- 
ing his  assistants  to  carve  them  and  serve 
everybody  as  orderly  as  in  a  hotel,  but  he 
did  not  know  the  people  he  had  to  feed. 
They  had  evidently  been  starving  them- 
selves for  the  purpose  of  making  a  gorge- 
ous feast  out  of  this  fifty-cent  banquet: 
they  waited  for  nothing,  but  after  three 
minutes  of  wild  clamor  they  went  for  the 
tables.  One  seized  a  whole  ham  on  its  dish 


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107 


and  took  it  to  the  corner  where  his  family 
sat;  another  took  a  dish  of  chickens;  an- 
other, finding  no  meat,  took  a  whole  cake, 
another  a.  pyramid  of  something  else;  in 
about  eight  minutes  there  was  not  a  mor- 
sel of  anything  left  on  the  tables,  a  few 
little  bunches  of  people  had  secured  every- 
thing and  the  majority  really  had  nothing. 

There  is  a  warning  and  a  lesson  for  be- 
ginners in  that,  the  meats  should  all  have 
been  cut  up  beforehand  and  many  hun- 
dreds of  sandwiches  prepared;  whether 
sliced  meats,  sandwiches,  bread,  oysters  or 
cake,  everything  should  have  been  in 
small  portions  upon  hundreds  of  plates,  so 
that  the  people  should  all  have  fared  alike 
whether  they  got  what  they  wanted  or  not, 
and  the  provisions  should  have  been  served 
from  behind  a  barrier — like  a  table  set  a 
few  feet  back  covered  with  plates  of  supper 
with  another  table  in  front  as  a  counter  to 
serve  from — or  else  out  of  small  windows. 

But  to  resume:  my  young  friend  was 
then  in  serious  trouble,  his  supper  was  all 
gone,  yet  very  few  had  been  fed  and  a  riot 
was  beginning.  He  got  some  of  the  big 
bugs  of  the  crowd  to  spread  the  word  that 
he  had  plenty  more  in  his  bakery  and 
would  have  it  brought  up  immediately. 
Then  he  took  all  his  assistants  and  brought 
up  everything  eatable  that  his  restaurant 
and  bakery  contained,  beginning  with  cold 
meats,  canned  goods,  boiled  eggs,  taking 
every  pie  and  cake  and  loaf  of  bread  and 
at  last  giving  up  his  boxes  of  crackers, 
raisins  and  candies.  And  still  the  people 
were  unappeased,  and  scores  of  them  de- 
clared they  had  not  got  a  morsel  to  eat  yet. 
There  is  no  doubt  but  a  good  deal  of  stuff 
was  pocketed;  then  some  were  beginning 
to  see  there  was  lots  of  fun  in  this  thing, 
particularly  those  who  had  secured  lion's 
shares  of  whole  dishes  and  were  laughing 
at  the  others,  and  some,  perhaps  half 
drunk,  were  hiding  and  witholding  eatables 
out  of  pure  devilment.  But  my  young 
friend  still  continued  his  efforts  to  satisfy 
them  all;  he  was  anxious  about  his  reputa- 
tion and  also  feared  that  the  committee 
might  try  to  withold  the  pay  if  he  did  not 


fulfill  his  part  of  the  contract  to  furnish 
suppers  for  all ;  then  he  came  to  me,  there 
being  no  place  open  to  buy  at  after  mid- 
night, and  we  persuaded  a  good-natured 
hotel-keeper  to  sell  him  all  the  bread  and 
cooked  meat  there  was  in  the  house,  and 
with  that  relay  and  the  impatience  of  the 
company  to  go  on  with  the  dance,  the 
trouble  was  tided  over.  The  young  man 
got  his  pay  from  the  committee  without 
trouble,  and  all  but  a  few  of  those  present 
thought  the  affair  was  a  fine  joke  after  it 
was  over.  Of  course  the  caterer  lost 
money,  far  beyond  what  he  had  hoped  to 
gain  in  profits,  and  was  badly  scared.  As 
this  recital  is  but  supplementary  to  the 
rules  above,  I  must  add  here  some  maxims 
not  less  important.  Cooking  and  service 
go  together.  A  pound  to  a  person  is  suf- 
ficient, but  you  must  see  that  each  person 
gets  his  dues.  If  one  person  gets  away 
with  four  portions  the  other  three  may 
raise  a  riot  and  be  in  the  right,  although 
you  have  done  your  part  in  one  respect. 
The  getting  of  each  portion  to  each  person 
is  the  art  of  service.  The  art  of  providing 
and  cooking  is  only  half,  service  is  the 
other  half,  without  which  the  first  is  use- 
less. 

The  other  instances  which  I  intended  to 
relate  were  of  private  receptions,  where 
the  youthful  guests — perfect  bunches  of 
flowers  to  look  at — acted  astonishly ;  but 
on  second  thought  I  have  concluded  to  say 
nothing  about  them,  but  leave  the  circum- 
stances to  the  readers'  imagination,  for 
really  all  of  us  who  cook  and  cater  have  a 
sort  of  secret  love  of  the  hearty  eaters,  and 
these  young  people  of  the  very  good  soci- 
ety of  very  good  cities  are  quite  excusable 
for  going  without  their  home  suppers  and 
even  their  home  dinners  in  order  to  be 
ready  to  do  full  justice  to  all  the  good 
things  we  make  for  ihem.  They  live  fru- 
gally at  home,  as  they  must  for  the  sake 
of  their  healthy  growth,  and  the  beautiful 
simple  hygienic  foods  which  they  grow  so 
lovely  upon  are  still  rather  insipid  and 
tasteless.  They  come  to  our  parties  and 
every  mouthful  they  try  has  a  new  rich- 


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THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


ness,  every  morsel  has  some  exquisite  and 
unwonted  flavor  and  they  cannot  resist, 
they  must  eat  and  ask  for  more,  they  can 
not  help  it,  even  though  the  astonished 
hostess  who  has  invited  them  has  to  go  to 
bed  with  a  sick  headache  in  consequence, 
and  the  young  and  unsophisticated  caterer 
becomes  old  and  gray-haired  through  the 
terrible  experience  of  a  single  night.  I 
would  not  even  have  alluded  to  these 
things  but  for  the  purpose  of  saying  the 
caterer,  whoever  he  or  she  may  be — for 
many  ladies  are  now  engaged  in  the  busi- 
ness of  furnishing  refreshments  to  order  to 
•'society"  people's  entertainments — should 
fortify  themselves  by  having  a  reserve  of 
something  plain  and  common,  a  quart  or 
gallon  of  the  thinnest  ice  cream  unflavored, 
a  lot  of  stale  cake,  something  like  sponge 
cake  two  weeks  old,  or  heavy  pound  cake 
to  taper  off  these  abused  feasts  with.  The 
grown  people,  the  appreciative  people,  all 
take  their  sufficiency  of  the  delicacies  and 
there  is  an  end  as  far  as  they  are  con- 
cerned, and  the  others,  hollow  young  boys 
and  girls  who  cannot  stop,  have  to  be 
weaned  and  choked  off  with  something 
common. 

BALL    SUPPERS. 

It  is  so  commonly  the  case  that  the 
dance,  and  the  supper  both  have  to  take 
place  in  the  one  room,  the  hotel  dining 
room,  because  there  is  not  a  second  room 
large  enough,  that,  in  offering  these  sug- 
gestions, I  shall  always  have  to  consider 
that  the  likeliest  contingency ;  yet  it  is  by 
no  means  the  best  or  pleasantest  way  to 
carry  out  such  affairs.  The  best  of  all 
such  parties  that  I  can  call  to  mind  have 
been  those  where  there  was  a  ball  room 
separate  from  the  supper  room,  where  the 
latter  might  be  prepared  in  a  leisurely 
manner,  decorated,  set  with  the  best  skill 
of  the  best  table  men,  made  to  look  hand- 
some, and  at  the  appointed  moment  the 
doors  were  thrown  open  and  the  guests 
marched  in.  Some  pleasantly  arranged 
hotels  have  a  parlor  so  large  that  it  serves 
the  purpose  of  a  ball  room  in  ordinary 
times,  that  is  for  everything  but  grand 


balls  attended  by  large  numbers,  and  a 
little  forethought  excercised  by  the  build- 
ers of  hotels  might  generally  lead  to  the 
grand  parlor  and  ladies'  ordinary,  or  the 
reading  room  or  some  other  adjoining, 
being  fitted  with  sliding  or  removable 
doors,  all  to  be  thrown  into  one  ball  room 
without  interfering  with  the  main  dining 
hall  at  all.  The  city  halls  which  caterers 
serve  entertainments  in  are  so  arranged  as 
to  have  separate  dancing  and  supper  rooms, 
else  they  are  not  fit  for  the  purpose,  and 
the  caterer  who  finds  the  hall  not  so  fitted 
should  think  twice  before  he  undertakes 
the  job,  for  supper-giving  becomes  a  more 
complicated  and  troublesome  affair  when 
the  dancers  have  to  be  asked  to  please  stop 
while  the  tables  are  set  in  the  same  room, 
and  again  while  they  are  cleared  away. 

HOW  TO  SET  THE  TABLES — SMALL  TABLES. 

The  most  entirely  satisfactory  way  of 
setting  out  a  ball  supper,  if  the  pleasure  of 
the  participants  is  to  be  the  main  object,  is 
the  setting  of  the  small  separate  tables  the 
same  as  they  are  at  dinner,  although  there 
may  be  something  grander  and  more  im- 
posing in  the  sight  of  two  or  three  long 
tables  the  whole  length  of  the  hall.  Your 
small  tables  are  for  bix  or  eight  seats  each ; 
the  people  sit  around  them,  sociably,  com- 
fortably, and  have  the  proprietorship  of 
the  one  waiter,  who  knows  his  station  and 
cannot  be  called  away.  Supposing  there 
are  twenty  tables,  the  requirement  is  that 
each  table  be  set  alike  with  cold  dishes  in 
advance  of  the  meal,  with  plates,  silver 
and  napkins  as  for  dinner;  the  people 
march  in  when  the  signal  is  given,  take 
their  places  in  groups  at  their  favorite 
tables  and  help  themselves  to  the  supper 
already  before  them,  the  waiters  being  to 
pass  dishes  from  one  end  to  the  other,  to 
bring  in  the  ices  and  coffee  at  the  right 
time  and  replenish  any  dish  that  may  be 
insufficient  in  the  first  setting. 

WHAT    TO   SET    UPON    THEM. 

There  should  be  a  center  piece  of  flowers 
or  ferns  or  something  ornamental.  The 


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109 


ordinary  cruet  stands  are  not  admisssible, 
but  small  novelties  in  china,  silver  or  glass 
for  the  purpose  of  holding  the  three  or 
four  common  seasonings  may  be  found  in 
some  inconspicuous  position,  and  silver 
sugar  bowls  newly  filled,  likewise.  On 
each  side  of  the  center  piece  set  one  de- 
corated dish  or  bowl  of  salad,  one  decorated 
dish  of  meat,  and  a  small  pyramid  of  neatly 
shaped  sandwiches  piled  upon  a -hand- 
somely folded  napkin.  The  two  salads 
upon  each  table  to  be  of  different  kinds, 
the  two  dishes  of  decorated  meats  different, 
the  sandwiches  different. 

Besides  these  there  must  be  plates  of 
bread  or  beaten  biscuits,  olives,  pickles 
or  cress.  The  waiter  in  attendance  at  each 
table  observes  and  when  the  time  to  re- 
move the  dishes  has  arrived  he  immedi- 
ately replaces  the  empty  meat  dishes  with 
ornamented  baskets  of  assorted  cakes  and 
bon-bons  and  choice  fruit,  which  he  has 
already  brought  in  upon  his  large  tray  and 
kept  upon  his  sideboard  or  stand-table;  he 
then  changes  the  plates  and  at  once  pro- 
ceeds to  bring  in  the  ices  and  jellies, 
moulded  and  turned  out  upon  a  dish  raised 
in  the  middle  and  covered  vith  a  fancy 
folded  napkin  (or  dish  inverted  in  a  larger 
dish  and  covered  with  the  napkin),  and 
lastly,  brings  in  the  coffee  in  small  cups, 
an  individual  silver  pitcher  of  cream  along 
with  each  cup. 

WHAT    MAKES   THE    DIFFERENCE    IN   COST 
OF   SUPPERS. 

Referring  to  the  foregoing  as  a  sample, 
I  will  offer  a  little  information  now  to  the 
committees  who  come  proposing  "a  nice 
pleasant  social  hop,  you  know,  and  a  little 
plain  refreshments — we  don't  want  much, 
but  want  it  decently  served,  rather  elegant, 
you  know,  but  nothing  costly — we  have 
been  thinking  we  ought  to  have  a  couple 
of  salads,  two  or  three  kinds  of  cold  meats 
or  sandwiches  or  both,  and  a  little  cake  and 
ice  cream  to  finish  off  with — that  won't  be 
much  trouble,  will  it?  Now,  what  will  it 
cost  .us?  How  low  can  it  be  done?" 

"Well,  sirs,  I  am    sorry  to  say   a  little 


plain  pleasure  should  cost  so  much,  but 
that  Httle  supper  will  cost  you  two  dollars 
a  head,  four  dollars  a  couple." 

"Oh,  nonsense,"  says  committee  impa- 
tiently, "the  tickets  to  the  ball  including 
supper  and  everything  are  only  five  dollars 
a  couple,  and  you  would  leave  only  one 
dollar  for  all  the  remaining  expenses?" 

"  Well,  as  you  have  not  specified  what 
the  particular  meats  and  salads  and  creams 
are  to  be,  we  will  retrench  a  little  and  put 
it  down  at  a  dollar  and  a  half  a  head,  but 
there  is  no  inducement  in  it  at  that  price." 

"  That  is  altogether  too  high  yet,"  says 
committee,  "  what,  for  a  little  cold  meat, 
salad,  ice  cream  and  cake  a  dollar  and  a 
half  apiece!  We  can  go  to  your  best  hotel 
and  have  the  best  dinner  they  can  get  up 
any  day  for  a  dollar,  and  here  you  want 
for  a  plain — " 

"Wait,  gentlemen,  let  me  tell  you  how 
that  is,  you  can  have  the  supper  for  a  dol- 
lar a  head  if  you  have  it  as  plain  and  scanty 
as  your  words  would  describe  it.  It  was 
your  putting  in  the  little  words  elegant  and 
decently  served  that  raised  it  to  two  dollars, 
for  those  expressions  imply  decoration, 
skilled  labor,  extra-paid  over-time,  trained 
waiters  and  plenty  of  them,  good  table 
ware  and  plenty  of  it,  and  choice  viands 
instead  of  cheap  ones.  There  is  no  mean- 
ing in  'a  little  ice  cream  and  cake,'  for 
there  must  be  enough  in  quantity  or  none, 
but  plain  cake  and  plain  ice  cream  you  can 
have  cheap  enough ;  if  you  run  to  varieties 
of  molded  ices,  jellies  and  macaroons  it 
takes  up  much  time  of  skilled  hands  with 
several  assistants,  and  thus  the  expense 
grows  the  same  as  with  the  mea's." 

QUANTITIES   AND   QUALITIES. 

If  you  have  the  roast-cook  to  plain-roast 
40  chickens  for  part  of  the  supper  of  the 
150  or  160  persons,  who  will  be  seated  at 
the  20  eight-seat  tables  before  mentioned, 
and  when  the  chickens  have  become  cold 
have  some  careful  but  ordinary  helper  to 
cut  them  up  and  place  the  pieces  into  20 
dishes,  one  for  each  table;  it  is  a  plain  and 
simple  matter  of  small  expense.  But  if, 


110 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


after  the  chickens  become  cold,  the  meat 
must  be  pulled  from  the  bones  and  freed 
from  skin,  then  be  cut,  not  hashed,  and 
added  to  a  similar  lot  of  celery,  and  there 
must  be  made  by  a  skillful  cook  from  two 
to  four  quarts  of  mayonaise  dressing  for  it, 
consuming,  before  the  salad  is  complete, 
about  a  gallon  of  fine  olive  oil,  the  chicken 
begins  to  be  expensive.  If  then  it  is  to  be 
kept  in  a  pan  or  large  platter  and  dished 
out  by  spoonfuls  it  is  still  not  very  dear 
nor  at  all  elegant.  But  if  on  the  contrary, 
it  is  to  be  shaped  in  a  suitable  mould, 
turned  out  into  20  dishes,  one  for  each 
table  and  all  alike,  and  then  spread  over 
with  the  dressing  skillfully,  decorated  with 
perhaps  a  dollars  worth  of  capers,  a  similar 
value  in  olives,  and  as  many  quartered 
eggs,  the  40  original  roast  chickens  have 
become  "elegant,"  but  also  expensive,  and 
that  not  so  much  owing  to  the  materials  as 
to  the  tediousnesss  of  all  the  operations, 
occupying  for  several  hours  one  or  two 
skilled  hands  and  some  assistants,  and  the 
little  salad  is  but  one-eighth  or,  likelier, 
one-twelfth  of  all  the  dishes  to  be  made. 

The  40  plates  of  sandwiches  which  are 
part  of  the  sample  supper  previously  de- 
tailed— two  plates  to  a  table,  the  kinds  be- 
ing different,  may  be  equally  plain,  mere 
sliced  bread  and  meat,  or  may  consume 
hours  in  their  preparation,  as  when  made 
of  grated  tongue,  minced  ham,  sardines, 
anchovy  butter  and  veal  or  chopped 
pickled  oysters  and  butter,  and  the  various 
combinations,  the  bread  having  to  be  very 
thin  and  cut  to  symmetrical  shapes  all  of 
one  size  and  appearance.  The  most  tedious 
are  rolled  sandwiches,  each  one  having  to 
be  tied  with  a  ribbon  and  the  more  trouble- 
some when  the  bread  is  of  a  contrary 
nature,  too  brittle  to  roll  easily. 

To  mould  the  charlottes  and  jellies, 
whether  in  160  individual  moulds  or 
whether  in  40  moulds — two  for  each  table 
— is  another  time-consuming  operation  and 
requires  room  in  the  refrigerators  to  set 
them,  which  is  often  very  hard  to  find 
whereas  if  only  to  be  "  spooned  out "  they 
may  be  kept  easily  in  a  tub  of  ice-water  and 


served  cheaply.  To  mould  ice  creams  and 
turn  them  out  successfully  requires  skilled 
workmen  instead  of  helpers  from  first  to 
last,  and  doubles  or  more  than  doubles 
their  cost 

These  examples  should  serve  to  explain 
why  the  very  same  eatables  can  either  be 
served  at  a  profit  for  one  dollar  or  served 
at  a  less  profit  for  two  dollars.  I  have  no 
inclination  to  pursue  the  subject  to  the 
point  of  tediousness,  but  it  remains  to  say 
that  a  .cheap  supper  must  be  attended  by 
but  half  as  many  waiters  or  even  one  third 
as  many.  All  of  the  dishes,  both  meats 
and  sweets,  can  be  put  upon  the  tables  at 
once  and  the  guests  left  almost  entirely  to 
help  themselves,  and  instead  of  making 
two  courses  or  "  services  "  of  it  all  the  few 
waiters  have  to  do  is  to  begin  to  bring  in 
the  plain  saucers  of  ice  cream  as  soon  as 
they  can  in  order  to  get  all  served  without 
any  having  to  wait.  For  it  is  to  be  remem- 
bered always  that  a  ball  supper  is  only  an 
incident  of  the  ball,  an  interval  in  the  danc- 
ing, which  many  people  wish  to  make  short 
and  not  lose  much  time  over;  it  is  not  the 
principal  object  in  the  meeting  and  haste 
in  serving  it  is  always  excusable. 

WHAT    DECORATED    MEAT    DISHES   CON- 
SIST  OF. 

The  40  decorated  cold  meat  dishes  named 
for  our  sample  ball  supper  may  consist  of 
anything  in  cold  meats  which  is  named  in 
any  of  the  bills  of  fare  to  be  found  in  these 
pages;  but,  to  be  explicit,  the  plainly  cut 
up  roast  chicken  already  instanced  may 
be  arranged  in  neat  shape  in  the  dishes 
and  bordered  with  water-cress  or  garden 
cress,  or,  rather,  the  cress  should  be  placed 
in  the  dish  first  and  chicken  upon  it.  The 
cress  is  a  good  relish  to  eat  with  the 
chicken,  but  if  none  to  be  had  then  border 
with  parsley,  and  it  becomes  a  decorated 
meat  dish.  To  do  better  than  that,  the 
breasts  only  of  the  chickens  should  be  cut 
in  thin  slices,  without  bones,  trimmed  a 
little  to  make  them  nearly  of  one  shape 
and  size,  laid  in  order  in  the  dish  and  bord- 
ered with  green  and  with  sliced  lemons. 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


Ill 


Next  above  that  may  be  instanced  breast 
of  chicken  (or  turkey)  decorated  with  jelly, 
the  jelly  chopped,  put  into  a  paper  cornet 
and  pressed  out  of  the  point  in  piping  the 
same  as  in  icing  cakes,  also,  the  jelly  in 
any  kind  of  fancy  shapes  placed  with  a 
knife.  Next  may  be  smoked  tongue  thinly 
sliced  and  decorated  in  the  dishes  or,  com- 
moner, red  corned  tongue.  There  are  such 
dishes  as  white  veal  cut  into  round  pieces 
like  silver  dollars,  two  pieces  together  with 
grated  tongue  between  and  a  spot  of  jelly 
on  to?)  cold  oyster  pies  or  patties  or  sim- 
ilar potties  and  vol-au-vents  filled  with 
finely  cut  game  or  chicken  in  a  sauce,  cold 
but  rich  and  as  firm  as  jelly.  There  are 
boned  chickens  and  galantines  of  various 
things  which  are  in  effect,  ornamental  and 
spicy-flavored  rolls  of  boneless  meat,  very 
handy  to  slice  and  savory  eating,  and 
among  the  most  expensive  decorated  cold 
meat  dishes  may  be  named  boned  quail 
and  other  birds  in  aspic  jelly  and  stuffed 
or  decorated  with  truffles  and  plovers' 
eggs.  It  is  the  tediousness,  trouble  and 
elaborateness  of  these  things  which  makes 
most  of  the  difference  between  one-dollar 
and  two-dollar  suppers,  and  the  addition  of 
wine  that  makes  the  difference  between 
five  dollars  and  ten. 

WHAT   THE   ORNAMENTAL   BASKETS   OF 
CAKE     CONTAIN. 

As  far  as  the  giving  an  inviting  appear- 
ance to  the  tables  is  concerned  the  baskets 
or  stands  of  cut  cake  have  quite  as  good 
an  effect  as  elaborately  ornamented  cakes, 
provided  the  cut  cakes  are  made  suitable 
for  the  purpose.  Ordinary  slices  of  cakes 
baked  in  deep  moulds  cannot  be  made 
much  of,  they  are  slices  of  cakes  and  noth- 
ing more.  Bake  cakes  of  different  sorts  in 
thin  sheets,  differently  flavored  and  of  dif- 
ferent tints  and  textures.  Place  some  of 
the  sheets  two  together  with  jam  and  jelly 
between,  and  leave  some  as  they  are. 
Take  a  bowl  of  fine  powdered  sugar  and 
wet  it  either  with  wine,  with  bright-colored 
fruit  syrups,  with  yolk  of  eggs  for  yellow, 
with  chocolate  syrup  or  with  plain  water; 


for  each  sheet  of  cake  make  this  plain 
sugar  coating  a  different  flavor,  make  the 
wet  sugar  so  thick  that  it  will  just  barely 
settle  down  smooth  and  glossy  when 
poured  on  the  sheets  of  cake,  and  ice  over 
the  top  of  every  sheet  so  prepared,  except 
one  for  plain  cake  for  those  who  prefer  it 
Besides  the  plain  white,  chocolate  and  yel- 
low, the  fruit  syrup  will  have  made  a  red 
or  pink  sheet,  if  not,  color  one  bowl  of  wet 
sugar.  It  needs  no  beating,  this  kind  of 
icing,  and  will  dry  on  the  sheets  of  cake 
in  an  hour.  To  further  increase  the  vari- 
ety, chop  some  of  the  greenest  citron  and 
sprinkle  it  over  a  white  sheet  while  still 
wet,  do  the  same  for  a  pink  sheet.  Take 
some  grated  fresh  cocoanut,  clean  and  free 
from  specks  and  strew  it  over  one  or  two 
other  sheets  while  still  fresh-iced  and  wet, 
and  scatter  split  almonds  or  walnuts  over 
another.  To  make  another  kind  mix  grated 
or  scraped  almond  paste  with  the  sugar 
and  spread  that  upon  a  sheet  or  between 
two  sheets.  Let  the  flavors  be  various; 
almond,  pineapple,  orange,  vanilla,  banana, 
lemon,  anise,  peppermint,  peach. 

These  broad  sheets  of  cake  having  been 
prepared,  the  next  thing  ornamental  is  to 
cut  them  carefully  and  the  special  recom- 
mendation of  this  plain  sugar-and-water 
icing  is  that  it  will  not  break,  but  can  be 
cut  into  any  fancy  shape  that  the  cake  will 
bear.  Cut  some  of  the  sheets  into  crescents 
with  a  biscuit  cutter,  cut  some  in  dia- 
monds, some  in  squares.  Now  bring 
alongside  an  assorted  lot  of  macaroons, 
egg  kisses,  solid  kisses,  hollow  kisses,  or 
meringues  a  la  cr&me  baked  on  boards; 
chocolate  meringues,  rose  meringues,  and 
stars  and  fingers,  and  covering  the  basket 
with  a  handsomely  folded  napkin  you  can 
stack  up  a  pyramid  of  assorted  cakes  that 
will  be  more  immediately  attractive  and 
give  more  satisfaction  than  an  elaborately 
ornamented  cake  on  which  two  to  three 
days'  work  has  been  put  could  do,  and 
these  assortments,  fortunately,  are  not  par- 
ticularly tedious  to  make,  if  we  except  the 
meringues  in  large  quantities.  In  addition, 
or  for  a  change  from  these,  there  are  the 


112 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


jelly  rolls,  variously  iced  and  colored  and 
coated  with  almonds  or  fresh  cocoanut 
before  slicing;  there  are  the  various  sponge 
drops  and  fingers,  wafers  and  curled  snaps 
and  small  cakes  iced  with  chocolate  and 
piped  with  white. 

But  in  the  more  elaborately  set  table  the 
one  basket  of  this  sort  will  be  matched  on 
the  other  side  by  a  whole  cake  with  some 
light  and  fragile  kind  of  ornamentation 
raised  upon  it,  but  this  cake  under  present 
fashions  must  be  cut,  if  only  one  section 
taken  out,  to  invite  immediate  use.  It 
must  be  of  little  weight,  shallow  in  the 
mould,  regularly  iced  with  white-of-egg 
icing  and  beautifully  bordered  and  flowered, 
besides  the  raised  ornamentation,  and 
forms  the  pastry  cook's  offset  and  compet- 
itor to  the  meat  cooks'  decorated  galantine. 

WHAT    THE     MOULDED    ICES    AND    JELLIES 
ARE. 

It  is  a  pity  to  have  to  say  what  they  are, 
for  the  grand  endeavor  of  caterers  both 
public  and  private  is  to  get  something  new 
in  this  line  to  beat  somebody  else.  There 
is  an  effort  to  make  new  effects  in  the  meat 
line,  but  that  is  more  difficult;  but  when  it 
comes  to  the  sweets  it  is  thought  they  are 
like  toys,  only  passing  fancies,  and  may  be 
used  to  further  any  fantastic  notions  that 
igenious  people  may  adopt.  However,  as 
this  might  seem  a  formidable  task  to  have 
to  invent  a  new  device  for  every  ball  sup- 
per or  other  party,  it  is  encouraging  to 
remember  that  every  old  invention  is  new 
in  any  place  where  it  has  never  been  seen 
before,  and  the  fancy  form  of  ice  which 
may  have  been  served  up  to  the  queen  of 
Sweden  thirty  years  ago  is  still  a  charming 
novelty  in  almost  any  town  or  city  where 
the  caterers  have  not  been  too  enterprising 
already.  All  the  cook  books  and  all  the 
confectiona'.-y  books  therefore  will  furnish 
notions  for  something  beyond  plain  ice 
cream.  There  is  the  brick  of  ice  cream  in 
three  colors  to  be  sliced,  that  is  the  pana- 
chee  or  Neapolitan ;  the  brick  or  mould  of 
any  kind  having  an  outside  coat  of  one 
color,  the  inside  filled  with  a  different  kind; 


that  is  the  bombe.  The  plain  yellow  ice 
cream  may  be  pinched  up  between  a  pair  of 
pewter  moulds  hinged  together  (or  first 
dipped  in  water),  and  the  ice  cream  drops 
out  when  they  are  opened  in  the  likeness 
of  a  peeled  banana.  Another  pair  of  moulds 
makes  a  pear  or  a  peach,  a  little  pink  ice 
being  placed  in  the  mould  to  make  the 
blush;  another  pair  makes  an  egg,  another 
a  stalk  of  asparagus,  with  some  green  pista- 
chio nut  ice  in  the  end  to  make  the  head. 
These  moulds,  dipped  in  water  after  each 
form  is  made,  will  form  the  ice  cream  out 
of  the  large  freezer  as  fast  as  they  can  be 
carried  in  by  the  waiters,  if  three  or  four 
hands  be  employed  at  it  at  once. 

To  give  an  idea  of  what  the  caterers  do 
in  the  city  society  circles,  where  nothing 
whatever  is  new  and  the  party  givers  have 
a  great  repugnance  to  repeating  what  some 
society  rival  has  already  done,  the  follow- 
ing extracts  from  correspondents'  letters 
will  prove  useful. 

It  has  to  be  said  further  in  praise  of  the 
small  tables  for  party  suppers  that  they 
admit  of  the  adoption  of  all  the  new  de- 
vices of  private  parties,  it  being  only  neces- 
sary to  multiply  them,  one  for  each  of 
twenty  or  forty  tables — itself  an  achieve- 
ment worthy  the  ambition  of  any  hotel 
manager  or  caterer;  and,  besides,  the  room 
full  of  small  tables,  and  they  fully  occupied 
by  people  in  full  dress,  makes  just  such  a 
scene  as  only  th^  finest  appointed  restau- 
rants in  the  world  can  equal  during  their 
best  hours.  But  to  our  extracted  para- 
graphs : 

"  The  desire  of  the  fashionable  world  for 
some  new  things  lead  them  into  queer 
freaks  now  and  then.  One  of  the  queere&t, 
and  to  my  mind  the  nastiest,  is  the  latest 
form  in  which  ices  are  served.  Last  year 
the  favorite  method  of  serving  them  was 
pretty  and  picturesque,  consisting  of  little 
plated  silver  candlesticks.  These  contained 
a  colored  ice  frozen  in  the  form  of  a  fancy 
candle.  In  the  top  of  this  was  thrust  a  wax 
taper  to  be  lit  just  before  serving,  and  the 
whole  crowned  with  a  tiny  silk  shade. 
When  they  were  served  with  the  tapers 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


113 


lit  the  effect  was  extremely  pretty,  and, 
after  admiring  it,  one  pulled  off  the  shade, 
extinguished  the  taper  and  proceeded,  like 
the  Esquimaux,  to  lunch  upon  candles. 

"  But  this  year  the  very  latest  Parisian 
idea  is  to  serve  the  ices  in  the  shape  of  a 
family  washtub,  filled  to  the  brim  with 
meringue  in  imitation  of  soap  suds,  and  in 
these  white  masses  one  is  permitted  to  fish 
at  random  to  bring  up  whatsoever  piece  of 
the  family  wash  fate  or  luck  assigns  one. 
To  some  fell  a  stocking  in  pink  ice,  an- 
other gets  a  cuff  or  a  collar,  or  a  square 
that  is  supposed  to  represent  a  handker- 
chief. The  whole  idea  is  revolting,  and, 
strange  to  say,  has  been  very  popular. 
Much  more  charming  were  the  ices  at  a 
luncheon  given  by  the  Misses  Furniss  the 
other  day  to  thirty  young  women,  where, 
It  being  a  "  hen  party,"  the  ices  appeared 
in  the  shape  of  a  big  motherly  hen  sitting 
In  a  nest  of  spun  sugar  surrounded  by  eggs 
of  vari-colored  ices. 

"The  most  novel  dinner  device  of  which 
I  have  heard  recently  was  a  mould  of  wine 
jelly  in  the  midst  of  which  was  set  an  elec- 
tric light.  The  dish  had  to  be  arranged 
on  the  table  beforehand,  but  it  was  con- 
cealed by  a  big  silver  cover,  which  was  in 
turn  hidden  by  flowers  so  as  to  form  a  centre 
piece  to  the  table.  When  the  cover  was 
removed  and  the  jelly,  with  its  cluster  of 
red  and  golden  and  purple  fires,  was  dis- 
closed, the  effect  was  quite  tremendous. 
One  lady,  it  is  true,  asked  her  escort  if  he 
didn't  suppose  the  jelly  would  taste  elec- 
trical, and  another  in  eating  it  declared  she 
felt  as  if  she  were  swallowing  a  Leyden  jar; 
but  the  device  was  really  very  pretty,  as 
well  as  novel  and  striking." 


And  here  is  a  pretty  fancy,  which  words 
would  be  insufficient  to  describe,  orange 


peel  baskets  filled  with  jelly.  One  such 
dish  for  each  of  our  20  tables  would  be 
about  right.  There  are  eight  of  them,  just 
enough  to  go  around. 

SETTING   LONG   TABLES. 

These  small  tables  may  be  placed  end  to 
end  to  make  two  long  tables  down  the  hall, 
but  in  locating  them  it  is  necessary  to 
ascertain  by  actual  trial  whether  after  plac- 
ing the  two  rows  of  chairs  there  will  be 
room  between  them  for  the  waiters  to  pass 
along  freely,  if  not  some  other  form  of  ar- 
rangement may  be  necessary,  as  some- 
times there  is  a  long  table  and  another 
across  the  end  in  the  form  of  a  T.  And 
to  save  waiters  and  make  expeditious  ser- 
vice in  such  a  hall,  there  are  often  side 
stands  or  tables  set  with  some  of  the  dishes 
or  having  the  ice  cream  behind  them  as 
behind  a  counter,  all  so  near  the  main 
tables  that  the  work  of  handing  over  is 
but  very  slight. 

The  long  tables  are  the  more  imposing, 
and  are  always  to  be  preferred  when 
speech-making  is  to  follow  the  supper  or 
dinner,  for  the  obvious  reason  that  the 
company  already  faces  the  speaker  either 
from  the  right  or  left  without  moving  the 
chairs. 

The  tables  are  set  according  to  the  occa- 
sion ;  for  a  grand  banquet  they  are  deco- 
rated with  tall  designs  in  flowers,  which  it 
is  the  florists'  special  business  to  furnish, 
and  at  times  with  statuettes,  if  possible 
emblematical  of  the  cause  of  the  gather- 
ing, and  at  such  times  great  use  is  found 
for  the  confectioners'  images  modelled  in 
sugar,  and  significant  designs  even  in  pyra- 
mids of  meat.  For  the  less  formal  ball 
supper,  the  tables  being  decorated  with 
flowers  and  foliage  according  to  the  chang- 
ing fashions,  which  may  call  for  loosely 
trailing  vines,  mats  of  moss  and  scattered 
roses  or  violets  this  year  and  tall  vases  of 
flowers  only  next  year,  may  still  be  much 
enriched  by  small  stands  of  decorated 
meats,  baskets  of  cake  and  ornamented 
cakes,  precisely  as  for  the  small  tables  al- 
ready described  in  detail.  It  is  only  re- 


114 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


quired  that  these  stands  of  handsomely 
prepared  eatables  shall  be  of  but  a  secon- 
dary prominence,  not  so  large  or  so  nu- 
merous as  to  make  the  tables  look  like  a 
candy  stand  at  a  fair.  They  are  to  be  to  a 
well  set  table  what  statuary  is  in  a  grove, 
or  like  bunches  of  ready-ripe  fruit  in  a  late 
orchard. 

One  waiter  to  every  ten  chairs  is  the  re* 
quirement  for  this  style  of  table,  and  if  an 
oyster  supper,  or  partly  hot  and  partly  cold 
meal,  as  the  people  all  come  in  at  once  and 
expect  instant  service,  the  oysters  should 
be  placed  at  each  place  at  the  minute  be- 
fore the  doors  are  thrown  open,  and  the 
bulk  of  the  supper  being  already  on  the 
table  the  waiters  have  little  to  do  except 
pass  the  dishes  within  reach  until  the  time 
comes  for  the  ices  and  sweets. 

WHERE   THEY    DANCE    IN   THE    DINING 
ROOM. 

That  is  all  very  fine  and  easy  of  accomp- 
lishment where  there  is  a  ball  room  as  well 
as  a  dining  room  and  where  the  setting  of 
the  tables  and  furnishing  ihem  with  new 
and  startling  effects  may  begin  three  or 
four  hours  or  even  a  day  before  the  ban- 
quet, but  where,  as  in  thousands  of  hotels, 
there  is  but  the  one  room  large  enough  a 
different  line  of  management  has  to  be 
pursued. 

THE    STAND-UP    SUPPER. 

It  is  not  to  be  inferred  that  these  follow- 
ing described  ways  of  serving  suppers  are 
any  less  the  ways  of  the  Jiaut-ton,  are  any 
less  fashionable  and  proper  than  the  regu- 
lar set  table  because  they  are  specially  re- 
ferred to  the  places  of  limited  accommoda- 
tions, they  are  simply  less  troublesome, 
stiff  and  formal,  and  their  very  informality 
causes  these  methods  to  be  chosen  in  places 
where  the  facilities  are  as  ample  for  any 
other  method.  The  stand-up  supper  is 
credited  to  the  inventive  genius,  perhaps 
we  might  say  to  the  leader-like  boldness, 
of  Ude,  the  celebrated  cook  or  maitre 
d'hotel  to  one  of  the  later  French  kings, 
Louis  XVI,  perhaps,  and  who  flourished 


about  a  century  ago.  It  was  the  stand-up 
supper  idea  which  first  made  him  talked 
about  in  every  fashionable  gathering,  for 
there  was  a  touch  of  philanthropy  about  it 
on  his  part,  and  the  court  beauties  praised 
him  for  his  sympathy  with  their  dilemma 
— they  could  not  sit  down  and  were  doomed 
to  see  the  most  magnificent  feasts  spread 
out  of  which  they  could  not  enjoy  a  mor- 
sel. The  peculiar  fashions  in  dress  at  that 
time  caused  the  trouble.  A  lady  fashion- 
ably attired  for  a  ball  could  not  sit  in  a 
chair  without  ruining  her  dress,  and  most 
of  them  in  consequence  made  martyrs  of 
themselves  by  not  tasting  snpper,  prefer- 
ing  to  stay  so  crinolined,  starched  and 
frilled  till  the  close  of  the  festival  rather 
than  eat  at  the  sacrifice  of  their  toilettes. 
Ude  said,  when  he  was  catering  for  these 
brillant  court  festivities,  that  as  fashion 
could  not  come  to  the  supper,  the  supper 
should  come  to  fashion,  and  he  set  his 
tables  and  spread  his  feasts  without  having 
a  chair  in  the  room.  He  filled  the  dishes 
with  small-cut  dainties,  placed  them  on 
raised  sideboards  in  front  of  great  mirrors 
and  placed  at  each  place  nothing  to  eat 
with  but  a  fork,  and,  naturally,  for  this 
accommodating  change  of  custom  the 
brilliant  beauties  were  grateful  and  the 
stand-up  supper  was  thereafter  the  proper 
thing  throughout  the  fashionable  world. 
Ude  and  the  fashion  makers  of  that  time 
"builded  wiser  than  they  knew,"  for  the  re- 
sort to  the  stand-up  method  has  helped  out 
unnumbered  thousands  of  caterers  as  noth- 
ing else  would.  A  man  has  a  large  enter- 
tainment to  serve;  he  can  secure  a  hall  or 
some  place  that  will  answer  for  one,  but  it 
is  unfurnished ;  he  can  make  impromptu 
tables  of  planks  upon  trestles,  can  cover 
them  if  need  be  with  the  finest  damask 
tablecloths  and  then  his  roughly  made 
tables  may  serve  the  temporary  purpose  as 
well  as  if  they  were  mahogany  and  marble, 
but  it  may  be  very  difficult  to  procure 
chairs  and  rough  boards  for  seats  will  not 
do.  Or  it  may  be  the  supper  is  calculated 
down  to  the  lowest  degree  of  cheapness; 
to  procure  chairs  for  so  many  will  neces- 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


115 


sitate  the  employment  of  wagons  and 
hands  to  bring  and  carry  back  and  would 
greatly  increase  the  cost  of  the  entertain- 
ment. In  such  cases  the  stand-up  supper 
is  resorted  to.  But  more  frequently  it  is 
adopted  because  of  the  scarcity  of  room. 
Even  while  the  people  are  dancing  one 
side  or  one  end  of  the  hall  can  be  taken 
possession  of  by  the  caterer,  steward  or 
headwaiter  and  long  tables  can  be  set.  It 
is  better  in  such  cases  if  there  can  be  a 
screen  to  temporarily  part  off  that  part  of 
the  room ;  it  may  be  even  worth  while  to 
have  such  a  screen  made  for  the  purpose. 
Then  the  table  or  tables  are  set  almost  the 
same  as  for  dinner,  but  with  the  plates 
nearer  together,  with  as  many  plates  and 
forks  as  there  are  guests.  It  is  an  object 
to  do  almost  entirely  without  waiters,  but 
place  the  decorated  dishes  of  meats—every- 
thing ready  sliced — the  salads  with  a  spoon 
in  each  dish,  the  small  pastries,  al!  of  indi- 
vidual size  and  everything  else,  except  ice 
cream  and  coffee,  in  numerous  small  dishes 
quite  near  together  so  that  there  will  be  no 
need  of  waiters,  but  every  gentleman  can 
reach  a  portion  of  everything  for  any  lady, 
and  not  see  something  different  or  better 
further  down  the  table — that  is  to  say:  the 
tables  should  be  set  exactly  alike  from  one 
end  to  the  other  with  a  portion  of  every 
kind  in  everybody's  reach. 

But  here  is  a  grand  caution  to  be  ob- 
served. The  ice  cream  and  coffee  have 
still  to  be  brought  in  and  the  people  will 
be  so  closely  packed  together  at  the  tables 
these  trays  cannot  be  carried  in  behind 
them  without  risk  of  the  direst  accidents 
to  the  ball  dresses,  besides  the  awkward- 
ness of  everybody  having  to  turn  around 
and  step  aside  to  admit  the  service.  Nothing 
is  more  frequent  than  to  see  these  ill-con- 
sidered arrangements  put  into  operation 
during  the  season  of  public  entertainments, 
the  difficulty  seeming  never  to  be  thought 
of  until  it  is  experienced.  The  ways  to 
avoid  it  and  admit  of  a  little  waiter-service 
all  through  the  supper  is  to  set  double 
tables;  that  is  two  tables  or  even  broad 
boards  nearly  together,  but  with  just  room 


enough  for  a  waiter  or  two  to  pass  down 
between  them  and  hand  the  cups  of  coffee 
over,  the  guests  occupying  only  the  out- 
side of  the  two  long  tables.  The  most  con- 
venient of  all  is  to  set  the  tables  in  horse- 
shoe fashion  or  a  hollow  square,  the 
servers  being  inside,  but  where  there  is 
not  room  for  them  the  tables  may  be  ranged 
along  the  wall,  with  only  just  room  enough 
between  the  wall  and  tables  for  waiters  to 
pass  along. 

THE    BAZAAR    SUPPER. 

This  is  the  prettiest  form  of  stand-up 
supper — it  might  almost  be  termed  the 
walk-around  supper.  It  admits  of  the 
supper  being  spread  in  several  smaller 
rooms  where  there  is  but  the  one  large 
enough  for  dancing,  and  tables  may  even 
be  set  in  hallways  and  verandas.  It  is  like 
the  going  from  one  table  to  another  for 
different  viands  at  the  festivals  and  bazaars 
which  the  ladies  conduct  in  every  town 
during  the  season.  In  preparing  for  a 
large  number,  however,  it  is  necessary  to 
have  a  number  of  tables  set  exclusively 
with  meat  dishes — the  cut  meats,  salads, 
sandwiches,  etc.,  and  other  tables  beyond 
containing  only  sweets — the  berries  and 
cream,  cakes,  coffee,  confectionery,  etc. 
Some  evening  entertainments  of  many 
descriptions  besides  balls  and  hops  are  very 
successfully  managed  on  this  plan,  where 
people  stroll  by  twos  to  the  tables  and  eat 
standing  though  the  simultaneous  seating 
of  so  many  would  be  quite  impracticable. 

THE    HANDED    SUPPER. 

It  is  not  to  be  denied,  however,  that  the 
stand-up  supper  is  but  the  meal  of  expedi- 
ency; not  the  most  comfortable  for  the 
participants,  but  only  the  best  that  can  be 
done  under  certain  circumstances.  It  may 
well  be  supposed  that  the  very  court 
ladies,  for  whose  benefit  it  was  first  insti- 
tuted, would  have  preferred  to  be  seated  if 
they  could.  There  is  another  motive  for 
the  stand-up  repast  which  has  not  been 
mentioned,  that  is  the  desire  to  cut  the 
supper  short,  for  the  people  who  would  sit 
perhaps  an  hour  in  leisurely  enjoyment  at 
a  regular  set  table  will  get  through  a 


116 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


stand-up  in  fifteen  minutes,  a  very  import- 
ant consideration  where  many  speeches 
have  to  be  made  in  another  hall,  or  a  num- 
ber of  figures  of  a  german  gone  through 
before  daylight  comes. 

The  real  social  hop  supper  is  the  handed- 
around  one,  the  best  known  way  and  mnst 
generally  adopted  in  hotels,  and  next  to 
the  regular  set  table  the  pleasantest.  This 
can  be  managed  in  two  ways,  of  which  the 
plainest  is  to  serve  everything  on  trays 
brought  from  the  kitchen  or  pantry,  the 
guests  remaining  seated  in  the  ball  room. 
If  it  is  the  hotel  dining-room  the  tables 
have  been  carried  out,  and  all  else,  but  the 
chairs  remain  ranged  around  the  walls. 
The  man  who  "calls  off"  the  dances  an- 
nounces that  after  the  next  dance  refresh- 
ments will  be  handed  around  by  the  wait- 
ers and  ladies  and  gentlemen  are  requested 
to  keep  their  seats  where  they  are.  When 
the  time  arrives  waiters  come  in  and  hand 
a  napkin  to  each  of  the  guests,  who  spread 
it  on  their  lap,  and  other  waiters  follow 
with  trays  filled  with  small  plates,  filled  as 
at  private  receptions,  with  portions  of  per- 
haps three  or  four  different  kinds;  for 
example:  a  spoonful  of  shrimp  or  lobster 
salad,  a  slice  of  breast  of  turkey,  one  or 
two  beaten  biscuits,  three  or  four  pitted 
olives,  and  a  fork ;  or  a  portion  of  chicken 
salad,  a  grated  tongue  sandwich,  a  slice  of 
boned  turkey  with  currant  jelly,  a  buttered 
biscuit  and  a  pickle  or  two.  As  soon  as 
all  are  served  with  these  the  waiters  begin 
to  bring  in  trays  of  ice  cream  and  cake — 
the  necessity  if  condensation  requiring  the 
saucer  of  ice  cream  or  punch-glass  of  sher- 
bet to  be  placed  on  the  same  plate  with  the 
two  or  three  pieces  of  cake  and  a  spoon — 
and  pass  around  to  whomsoever  may  be 
ready  first,  taking  up  the  meat  plates  and 
replacing  with  the  sweets.  It  does  not 
work  well,  unless  the  waiters  are  well 
accustomed  to  it  and  watchful,  to  let  one 
go  along  and  take  up  the  meat  plates  and 
another  follow  with  the  sweets,  as  some 
are  sure  to  be  missed  altogether.  Each 
waiter  should  have  but  a  small  load  easily 
handled  and  make  the  change  complete  as 


he  goes  along.  After  that  coffee  is  offered 
in  the  same  way,  while  lemonade  or  glasses 
of  water  should  be  passed  about  the  room 
freely  by  other  waiters  during  the  whole 
time  of  supper,  until  all  hands  are  required 
to  gather  up  the  plates  and  napkins  at  the 
finish. 

THE   ORNAMENTAL    HANDED    SUPPER. 

The  last  described  being  the  plainest  and 
easiest,  the  portions  on  the  plates  all  pre- 
pared outside  and  no  whole  dishes  having 
to  be  shown,  is  the  sort  of  supper  which 
hotel-keepers  can  best  afford  to  give  in  a 
complimentary  way  to  their  guests,  as  they 
are  so  often  obliged  to  do,  and  is  for  many 
reasons  the  least  troublesome  and  least 
expensive.  Here  is  another  way  of  doing 
nearly  the  same  thing,  which  perhaps  may 
be  claimed  to  be  the  best  of  all  (but  only 
for  genteel  pcop'e  who  can  be  depended 
on  to  behave  well)  as  it  gives  a  chance  for 
display  and  leaves  the  most  lasting  impres- 
sion upon  the  visitors.  It  is  to  bring  a 
table  or  two  or  three,  of  the  ordinary  small 
size,  ready  set  with  some  tall  ornamental 
dishes  or  pyramids  into  the  dining  room 
when  the  dancing  ceases  and  serve  the 
supper  to  the  people,  all  seated  as  in  the 
other  instance,  from  these  tables  instead  of 
from  the  outside.  In  this  service  there  is 
a  little  less  of  the  "keep-your-seat"  sort  of 
restraint  than  by  the  other  way.  The 
tables  hold  something  to  be  looked  at  and  it 
follows  that  the  people  walk  around  them 
to  see  what  there  is,  and,  later  on  the 
gentlemen  have  a  chance  to  assist  the  ser- 
vice in  a  way  which  they  generally  are  very 
glad  to  do  by  helping  the  ladies  to  some 
coveted  dainty  from  the  tables  or  replen- 
ishing a  plate  before  the  waiter's  attention 
can  be  secured.  Nevertheless,  it  is  a  nap- 
kin supper  like  the  last,  and  these  serviettes 
are  to  be  passed  around  (only  to  those  who 
are  found  seated),  and  then  plates  with 
portions  of  three  or  four  dishes  sent  to 
them  from  the  tables  as  fast  as  they  can 
be  filled  and  distributed. 

It  is  an  object  to  make  the  table  or  tables 
hold  all  that  is  required  for  the  supper. 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


117 


They  may  be  set  while  the  dance  is  going 
on,  in  the  kitchen  or  carving  room  or  any 
handy  place  and  when  the  time  comes 
carried  in  by  a  sufficient  number  of  hands 
through  the  doors  into  the  dining  room 
without  disarranging  anything.  In  the 
center  may  be  a  tall  piece  of  the  pastry 
cook's  be&t  work ;  a  number  of  dishes  of 
salad  all  decorated  should  be  placed  at 
intervals  along  with  all  other  such  dishes 
as  have  been  suggested  already  for  the 
supper  with  small  set  tables,  the  grand 
advantage  of  this  style  being  that  one 
elaborately  ornamented  dish  of  a  kind  is 
sufficient  for  all  the  company  to  see,  while 
the  other  way  calls  for  one  such  for  every 
separate  table.  After  the  meats  have  been 
served  the  dishes  may  be  removed  and  the 
moulded  ices  or  plain  ice  cream  and  wine 
jellies,  charlotte  russe,  orange  baskets,  me- 
ringues, or  whatever  could  not  be  crowded 
on  the  tables  at  the  first  setting  may  be 
brought  in  their  places  and  served  from 


the  table  as  they  were.  It  is  quite  essential 
in  setting  these  show  tables  to  allow  room 
enough  for  piles  of  small  plates,  glass  cake 
plates,  glass  jelly  saucers,  punch  cups, 
forks,  spoons,  and  a  few  knives  besides  the 
crockery  on  a  side  table  for  the  waiters' 
use,  in  order  that  the  guests  may  have 
facilities  for  helping  themselves  and  each 
other  when  the  service  is  slow.  All  orna- 
mental cakes  for  such  a  supper  should 
have  a  small  section  already  cut  out  and  a 
knife  placed  ready,  to  show  that  they  are 
for  use  and  not  for  ornament  only,  and 
then  the  quantities  needed  for  the  supper 
may  be  calculated  according  to  rules  al- 
ready given  so  closely  that  these  decorated 
affairs  will  have  to  be  cut  up  in  order  to 
make  enough — however,  when  there  are 
not  so  many  people  present  as  provisi6n 
was  made  for  these  larger  pieces,  like  de- 
corated hams,  iced  cakes  and  galantines 
cased  in  jelly,  are  the  dishes  best  worth  re- 
serving. 


A  CHARTREUSE  OF  VEGETABLES. 


A  TURBAN  OF  FILLETS  OF  FISH. 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


TZHCIIRID. 


COMPRISING 


Catering  for  Private  Parties 

o 

A  GUIDE  TO  PARTY  CATERING. 

WEDDING  BREAKFASTS,  FANTASIES  OF  PARTY  GIVERS, 

Model  Small  Menus  and  Noteworthy  Suppers, 


"WITH 

ALSO, 

CA  TERING  ON  A  GRAND  SCALE 

ORIGINAL    AND    SELECTED    EXAMPLES    OF 

MAMMOTH  CATERING  OPERATIONS,  SHOWING  THE  SYSTEMS 
FOLLOWED  BY  THE  LARGEST  CATERING  ESTAB- 
LISHMENTS IN  THE  WORLD. 

ALSO,    A   DISQUISITION    ON 

HEAD  WAITERS  AND  THEIR  TROOPS. 


JESSUP  WHITEHEAD. 


CHICAGO 

1899. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress  in  the  Office  of  the  Librarian,  at  Washington,  by 
JESSLT  WHITEHEAD,  1887  and  1889.— All  rights  reserved. 


CATERING  FOR  PRIVATE  PARTIES. 


Large  catering  establishments  are  like 
large  hotels,  few  in  number,  of  slow 
growth,  costly  to  rear,  expensive  to  carry 
on,  difficult  to  buy  or  succeed  to,  but  still 
there  is  small  work  for  small  caterers  in 
tens  of  thousands  of  places,  and  real  de- 
mand for  skill  and  talent  in  that  line  the 
same  as  for  excellent  cooks  and  waiters  in 
hotels.  It  is,  of  course,  a  peculiar  line  of 
work  taking  it  all  together  for  which  only 
a  few  are  adapted ;  it  is  not  sufficient  to  be 
a  good  cook,  there  must  be  a  special 
knowledge  of  the  dishes  most  suitable  for 
party  suppers  and  dinners  and  of  what  is 
fashionable,  which  may  entirely  exclude 
the  things  which  a  cook  may  beat  the 
world  at  for  hotel  dinners,  and,  in  addition, 
there  must  be  a  knowledge  of  table  setting 
and  waiter  work  and  various  matters  of 
propriety.  The  beginnings  of  the  party 
catering  trade  are,  however,  simple  enough. 
A  man  keeps  a  small  restaurant  or  bakery 
and  confectionery,  or  all  combined,  and  is 
applied  to  by  some  simple-minded  lady 
who  asks  him  how  much  he  will  charge 
her  to  make  and  bake  a  cake  for  her  party 
if  she  furnishes  the  materials,  or  what  he 
will  charge  to  roast  her  turkey  if  she  sends 
it  already  prepared  for  cooking  and  sends 
butter  to  baste  it  with,  and  how  much 
butter  will  it  take?  The  man  gives  a  smil- 
ing and  courteous  answer,  whether  he  ac- 
cepts such  a  contract  or  not,  and  the  next 
may  be  a  lady  who  has  heard  talk  of  some 
fine  thing,  perhaps  a  fillet  of  beef,  larded, 
being  served  at  a  private  party  somewhere 
and  asks  if  he  can  furnish  such  a  dish  for 
her  coming  entertainment,  is  probably 
pleased  and  proud  to  find  that  he  can  and 
may  end  by  giving  him  an  extensive  order 
and  his  first  opportunity  to  show  whether 
he  is  capable  of  doing  the  society  party 
Work  of  the  town.  A  man  who  is  a  cook 


only  finds  one  who  is  a  head  waiter  01 
competent  to  be  one ;  a  waiter  or  butler 
starting  in  such  a  business  finds  an  accom- 
plished cook,  and  the  two  together  make 
it  go.  Cooking  and  service  must  go  to- 
gether. 

In  tens  of  thousands  of  cases  where 
parties  are  given,  the  right  combination  is 
not  available.  Society  entertains  every- 
where ;  the  ladies  carry  on  the  service  part 
and  only  call  on  the  cooks.  There  are 
numbers  of  cooks  in  every  city  of  medium 
size  and  in  some  large  towns,  who  never 
take  regular  employment,  but  hold  them- 
selves for  all  such  odd  jobs  of  cooking  for 
parties,  in  private  houses,  and  sometimes 
take  little  contracts,  hire  waiters,  furnish 
everything  and  carry  an  affair  through 
themselves.  For  cooking  by  the  day  they 
get  good  wages,  ranging  from  five  to  ten 
dollars  a  day  or  for  the  day  and  part  of  the 
night  taken  up  in  serving  the  feast,  and  for 
some  elaborate  spreads  the  work  of  pre- 
paration may  keep  them  employed  for  a 
week,  and  one  who  gains  a  reputation  for 
special  skill  and  reliability  may  be  em- 
ployed every  day  during  the  social  season ; 
may  have  more  offers  of  employment  than 
he  can  accept;  may  secure  an  advanced 
price  for  his  services,  but  as  in  all  other 
lines  "  it  is  the  longest  pole  that  knocks 
the  persimnron,"  the  man  must  excel  in 
something  or  he  will  never  be  more  than 
a  laborer.  There  is  never  a  private  enter- 
tainment but  the  lady  at  the  head  of  it 
would,  if  she  could,  have  something  to  beat 
some  other  party ;  would  like  to  have  some- 
thing which  her  friendly  rivals  have  never 
had,  particularly  anything  mentioned  in 
the  fashion  papers  or  fashion  correspond- 
ence, as  in  vogue  somewhere,  but  which 
no  lady  of  her  round  of  acquaintances  has 
yet  been  able  to  secure.  Then  the  caterer 


(126) 


126 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


of  whatever  grade  who  can  furnish  the 
most  novelties  comes  to  the  top.  This  is 
really  a  very  serious  phase  of  the  whole 
society  catering  business  from  its  smallest 
stage,  where  some  new  cook  with  a  bunch 
of  novelties  can  come  and  take  the  bread 
out  of  the  mouths  of  the  old  residents,  to 
the  largest  establishment,  which  is  obliged 
to  change  from  china  to  silverware,  from 
silver  to  glass,  from  flowers  in  general  to 
flowers  of  one  or  two  rare  sorts,  from  banks 
of  moss  and  trailing  vines  on  the  table  to 
tall  vases  only,  all  because  of  the  changes 
of  the  fashions,  and  is  bound  to  be  on  the 
watch  to  import  every  new  idea  and  be 
ready  to  supply  the  newest  favorite  dish,  as 
otherwise  the  class  of  patrons  who  are  able 
to  make  high-class  catering  most  profitable 
to  the  caterer  will  send  away  and  import 
for  themselves  what  they  cannot  procure 
at  home.  Small  catering  businesses  are 
often  offered  for  sale  like  any  other  busi- 
ness, and  a  man  well  posted  in  the  require- 
ments, at  such  times  may  find  his  oppor- 
tunity to  step  in  and  build  up  an  important 
and  profitable  trade  where  another  had 
been  "poking  along"  or  failed  entirely. 

LADY    CATERERS. 

Many  ladies  are  engaged  in  catering  for 
private  parties;  they  may  be  found  in  every 
town  and  city.  They  usually  carry  on 
some  other  small  shop  business  or  a  ladies' 
restaurant  for  down  town  shoppers ;  and  do 
little  or  none  of  the  work  themselves,  but 
are  acquainted  with  the  people  who  give 
parties  and  with  the  requirements  of  sev- 
eral kinds  of  entertainments,  and  know  all 
the  available  hands  for  such  employment, 
the  cooks,  waiters,  wagoners,  house-clean- 
ers, and  where  they  can  be  found,  also 
where  silver  and  other  table  ware  can  be 
had  for  hire,  and  prove  themselves  friends 
in  need  to  many  who  find  themselves 
obliged  to  entertain,  yet  lack  the  experi- 
ence necessary,  and  these  caterers  make  a 
good  income  solely  by  employing  others. 
The  following,  clipped  from  a  society  pa- 
per, shows  still  another  department  for 
ladies,  much  like  the  place  occupied  by  the 


steward  of  a  hotel.  This  one  indeed  is  the 
manageress,  as  they  are  called  in  England, 
for  the  time  being.  A  man  caterer  called 
in  and  given  entire  charge  of  a  reception 
or  other  party  indeed  does  all  that  this  lady 
does,  if  it  is  required  of  him,  sending  the 
proper  hands  to  look  after  the  silver,  etc., 
making  out  the  menu  and  getting  it  printed 
and  ordering  or  furnishing  everything  for 
a  round  sum ;  still  the  lady  fills  a  different 
position  in  standing  in  place  of  the  lady  of 
the  house  herself  and  being  the  employer 
of  the  caterer  and  florist,  perhaps,  besides. 
"A  New  York  lady,  who  had  made  her 
father's  dinners  famous  by  their  elegance 
and  perfection,  was  left  penniless.  She 
knew  that  many  ladies  refrain  from  dinner 
giving  because  they  feel  unequal  to  the 
ordeal,  but  are  quite  willing  to  pay  any 
one  who  can  relieve  them  of  the  responsi- 
bility and  worry.  An  old  friend  of  social 
position  to  whom  she  unfolded  her  plan  of 
dinner  superintendence  agreed  at  once  to 
employ  her,  and  influenced  her  wealthy 
friends  to  try  the  novel  plan.  It  worked 
admirably,  and  she  probably  earns  more 
than  any  lady  teacher  in  the  city.  Her 
plan  is  to  go  to  the  dinner  giver  as  soon  as 
the  invitations  are  sent  out,  and  discuss 
the  courses,  etc.  She  knows  just  what  is 
in  season,  and  does  the  marketing  if  the 
lady  wishes.  She  finds  out  what  sum  the 
hostess  is  willing  to  expend  for  flowers, 
menus,  etc.,  rind  buys  them  for  her,  taking 
great  pains  to  get  novel  and  artistic  de- 
signs. The  afternoon  of  the  dinner  she 
sees  that  the  table  is  properly  laid,  inspects 
the  polish  of  the  silver  and  the  lustre  of 
the  glass,  makes  sure  that  the  changes  of 
plates,  etc.,  are  ready  on  the  sideboard,  at- 
tends to  the  finger-bowls,  and  arranges  the 
shades  on  the  candles  to  secure  that  soft 
radience  that  ladies  find  so  becoming.  She 
foresees  every  probable  emergency  and 
provides  for  all  contingencies  that  may 
arise." 

MORE    RULES    FOR    STEWARDS    AND 
CATERERS. 

Scarcely  ever  two  party  affairs  are  ex- 
actly alike  and  set  patterns  seldom  fit  the 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


127 


case,  but  the  individual  comes  in  and  exer- 
cises his  own  skill  and  knowledge  within 
certain  bounds  of  propriety  and  good  taste. 
Some  rules  have  been  laid  down  in  a 
former  page,  by  which  a  man  may  take  a 
pencil  and  paper  and  approximate  very 
closely  the  amount  of  provisions  which 
will  be  necessary  to  prepare  for  any  given 
number  of  people,  and  how  much  it  will 
cost  him  can  be  determined  by  finding  the 
prices  prevailing  in  his  markets.  Then 
questions  are  raised  of  what  is  right  and 
proper,  as,  for  example,  "  should  a  soup  be 
served  at  a  wedding  breakfast?"  (which  is 
really  an  elaborate  luncheon  and  not  the 
breakfast  ordinarily  understood)  or  "  what 
dishes  should  be  served  at  such  and  such  a 
high-class  entertainment?''  and  so  forth, 
and  as  a  guide  in  such  matters  likewise  the 
following  rules  are  offered: 

1.  To  determine  whether  this  thing  or 
that  is  proper,  examine  the  many  menus  of 
all    sorts   of    fashionable    entertainments; 
which  are  to  be  found  abundant  in  these 
pages  and  are  printed  for  the  very  purpose 
of  reference. 

2.  To  know  what  to  give  and  what  to 
charge  for  a  high-priced  spread,  look  over 
the  large  bills  of  fare  with  prices  attached 
of  the  high-class  restaurants,  likewise  to  be 
found  in  these  pages,  select  from  among 
their  dishes  and  take  the  prices  for  a  guide 
what  to  charge,  remembering  possibly,  if 
the   occassion    requires   concessions,   that 
those     restaurant     dishes     are    generally 
enough  for  two  persons,  if  not  more.     It 
is  claimed  for  the  Hotel  Richelieu  of  Chi- 
cago that  each  dish  served  for  an  individual 
order  is  sufficient  for  three  or  four.     In 
some  establishments  they  never  divide  any 
ordinary  sized  fish — nothing  except  salmon 
or  halibut  to  cut  into  steaks — the  rule  is  to 
buy  fish  of  a  suitable  size,  two  or  three 
pounds   each,   and    serve    nothing    but  a 
whole  one  to  each  customer.      At  high- 
priced   suppers    generally   the   same  rule 
obtains,  each  one  of  the  guests  has  a  one- 
pound  or  two-pound  trout  or  pompano  or 
bass    set    before    him  to  take    what    he 
pleases  from,  and  when  that  is  removed  a 


whole  broiled  teal  or  large  portion  of  any 
other  larger  fowl,  and  so  on  through. 
Cheaper  dinners  and  suppers  in  courses 
have  divided  portions  in  large  dishes  passed 
along  the  table. 

3.  When  deciding  what  viands  to  order 
select  the  least  common  for  the  locality. 
Grouse  in  Kansas  has  been  so  common 
that  the  farmers'  hands  refused  to  be  fed 
upon  it,  demanding  other  meat;  people  in 
the  Rocky  Mountain  towns  reject  antelope 
and  think  little  of  black-tail  deer  because 
they  have  a  surfeit  of  them,  and  still  these 
all  are    prime    delicacies  in   New  York. 
Something    far-fetched,     unusual,     novel 
should  be  introduced  when  possible,  but 
with  judgment  not  to  exclude    standard 
favorites  which  will  be  expected  as  well. 

4.  To  know  what  special  sorts  of  food 
to  provide  for  entertainments    given   by 
various  nationalities  or  people  from  distant 
sections,  look  over  the  menus  of  similar 
feasts  given  in  other  places  by  competent 
parties,  generally  by  caterers  of  the  same 
nationality,  which  likewise  may  be  found 
in  these  pages,  and  refer  besides  to  remarks 
on  such  national  cookery  also  discussed  in 
other  pages  under  the  proper  letter. 

5.  To    excel  as  a  caterer,    keep  well 
posted  on   what  is  going  on   by  reading 
fashion  correspondents'  letters  in  the  pa- 
pers, and  the  hotel  and  catering  journals. 
Most  of  the  "  new  wrinkles  "  may  be  triv- 
ial in  the  extreme,  yet  one  never  knows 
which  of  them  will  "catch  on"  and  turn 
out  to  be  a  fashionable  craze.      Society 
entertainments  were  supported  during  one 
season  at  least  almost  entirely  on  "  cheese 
straws,"   and   another   season  or  two  on 
"salted   almonds."      The   whole   catering 
world  is  a  company  of  inventors  constantly 
seeking  for  some  new  thing,  and  he  who 
cannot  invent  for  himself  may  learn  from 
those  who  can,  if  he  cares  to  watch. 

6.  Look   over  the  dictionary  of  dishes 
and  learn  in  how  many  various  ways  the 
same  edibles  may  be  served,  and  find  sug- 
gestions and  new  wrinkles  applicable  to 
every  conceivable  occasion. 


12S 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


A  GUIDE  TO  PARTY  CATERING. 

ANNIVERSARY  BALL  SUPPER  FOR  2OO. 

The  committee  wanted  it  "  fine  "  for  $5 
per  couple  including  ball.  One  hundred 
couples  expected.  It  was  a  good-sized 
town  (called  a  city),  with  two  or  three 
hotels,  but  without  a  regular  caterer  in 
business.  Committee  applied  to  a  hotel 
chef,  who  undertook  the  supper  for  a  fixed 
sum  for  the  labor  only,  the  committee  to 
supply  everything  according  to  written 
requisition.  Committee  secured  the  town 
hall  for  dancing  and  a  large  vacant  store 
underneath  for  the  supper  room,  with  large 
room  at  the  back  for  kitchen,  borrowed  or 
hired  the  various  utensils  found  in  a  neigh- 
boring restaurant,  which  was  then  closed 
awaiting  a  purchaser,  and  borrowed  400 
pieces  of  silver  from  a  summer  hotel,  then 
closed.  Glasses,  plates,  etc.,  obtained  from 
local  stores.  Two  long  tables  were  set  and 
nearly  everything  was  set  upon  them. 
Chairs  were  obtained  from  various  places, 
principally  from  the  hall  or  "opera  house." 
A  bill  of  fare  was  printed,  not  for  any  use 
to  order  from,  everything  but  oysters  and 
ice  cream  being  in  sight  on  the  tables,  but 
from  motives  of  display.  This  was  the 
supper  provided: 


Celery. 


Raw  Oysters. 
Pickles.  Cold  Slaw  Olives. 


Fried  Oysters. 


Stewed  Oysters. 


Cold  Wild  Turkev.  Cold  Roast  Chicken. 

Cranberry  Jelly. 

Chicken  Salici.          Shrimps,  with  I^ettuce. 
Mayonaise  of  Lobster.  Hollandaise  Salad. 

Truffled  Galantine  in  Aspic. 
Decorated  Ham.  Decorated  Buffalo  TongTies. 

Newport  Tartlets.     Curacoa  Bavarian. 

L  mon  Butter  Tartlets. 

Wine  and   Fruit  Jellies. 

Meringue  Cakes.          Glazed  Cream  Puffs. 

Chocolate  Layer  Cake. 
Candies.          Dehnonico  Ice  Cream.         Lemonade. 

Oranges.        Apples.        Nuts.        Raisins. 
Cheese.  Crackers.  French  Coffee. 

PROVISIONS   AND   MATERIALS    USED. 

Oysters  (bulk)  10  gallons,  of  which  3 
gallons  were  used  raw,  3  gallons  stewed,  4 
gallons  fried. 

Turkeys,  80  pounds. 


Chickens,  50  pounds.  That  was  the 
quantity  actually  used,  though  the  com- 
mittee became  excited  as  preparations  went 
on  and  thought  there  would  not  be  half 
enough,  therefore  had  more  prepared 
which  was  left  over  at  last.  Had  and  used 

3  turkeys  boned,  stuffed  with  meat  of  6  of 
the   chickens;    4  chickens    (fowls)    made 
enough  salad.     Remainder,  5  turkeys  and 

4  chickens  were  sliced  for  cold  roast,  and 
all  eaten. 

Ham,  one,  weighed  n  pounds,  but  little 
used. 

Smoked  tongues,  4.  Purported  to  be 
buffalo  tongues  from  Montana.  Used 
three  sliced  and  decorated,  other  one  in 
galantine  stuffing. 

Truffles,  one  $1.50  can.  All  utilized  for 
outside  decoration. 

Shrimps,  12  cans,  all  used. 

Lettuce,  2  dozen  heads,  all  used. 

Lobsters,  2  cans.  Not  much  needed. 
More  for  display  of  kinds  in  menu  than  for 
real  use. 

Potatoes,  for  hollandaise  salad,  used 
about  8  pounds. 

Celery,  6  dozen  heads,  just  right  as  or- 
dered ;  used  best  part  in  celery  glasses  on 
table,  remainder  in  salads. 

Cabbage,  2  heads,  about  S  pounds,  used 
most  for  slaw  with  oysters. 

Beets,  used  about  3  pounds  in  decorating 
salads. 

Cracker-meal,  for  breading  oysters,  used 
12  pounds. 

Lard,  for  frying  oysters  and  for  short- 
ening in  biscuits  and  pastry,  used  20 
pounds — oysters  frying  is  most  destructive 
of  lard,  as  it  soon  becomes  too  dark  and 
thick  with  cracker  dust  for  further  use. 

Butter,  used  for  all  cooking  purposes 
(none  on  table),  10  pounds. 

Flour,  used  30  pounds. 

Baking  powder,  used  i  pound. 

Sugar,  for  all  purposes,  including  lemo- 
nade, used  30  pounds. 

Milk,  used  for  oyster  stews  and  other 
purposes,  12  gallons. 

Cream,  for  coffee  and  other  purpose*, 
used  3  gallons. 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


129 


Chocolate,  for  cakes  and  puffs,  }£  pound. 

Currant  jelly,  for  tartlets,  I  pound. 

Gelatine,  for  wine  jelly,  orange  jelly,  etc., 
and  for  aspic,  used  10  packages  or  about  i 
pound. 

Sherry,  for  jellies,  I  quart. 

Curacoa,  for  Bavarian  cream,  very  small 
quantity,  used  i  pint. 

Extracts,  used  4  ounces. 

Eggs,  15  dozens  actually  ordered,  needed 
and  used  (but,  as  in  case  of  turkeys,  com- 
mittee anticipating  a  greater  crowd,  caused 
the  using  of  10  doz.  more,  product  left 
over  and  not  counted  herein). 

Of  the  14  items  above  was  made  and  all 
eaten:  Cream  Puffs,  150;  Biscuits,  200; 
Puff  Paste  Tartlets,  100;  Ice  Cream,  6 
gallons ;  Wine  Jelly,  8  quarts ;  Aspic  Jelly, 
for  meat  decoration,  2  quarts;  cake,  about 
24  pounds,  needed  on  table  for  show,  but 
half  eaten,  as  all  took  puffs  and  pastries. 

Besides  these  were  used : 

Bread,  5  loaves — nearly  all  preferred  the 
beaten  biscuits. 

White  Wax,  for  ornamental  purposes, 
$  i  worth,  together  with  some  mutton  fat. 

Paper,  2  kinds,  2  quires. 

Olive  Oil,  2  quarts. 

Olives,  2  bottles. 

Lemons,  all  purposes,  used  6  doz. 

Pickles,  2  quarts. 

Coal  for  range,  used  500  pounds. 

Salt,  for  freezing,  etc.,  25  pounds. 

Ice,  nominal,  winter,  plenty  free. 

Coffee,  used  8  pounds  Java — ought  to 
have  had  10  pounds — great  run  on  coffee 
and  nothing  large  enough  to  make  it  In. 

It  would  not  serve  any  useful  purpose 
to  say  what  the  supper  above  detailed  cost. 
The  amounts  and  quantities  will  be  found 
trustworthy  as  a  guide  for  similar  occur- 
ences ;  the  probable  cost  in  any  case  can  be 
ascertained  by  reference  to  prices  in  the 
local  markets.  The  number  at  the  tables, 
known  by  the  number  of  chairs,  was  quite 
200  including  the  promoters  of  the  affair, 
committees  and  comphmentaries,  but  mu- 
sicians and  others  at  second  table  were  so 
many  additional  for  which  the  same  spread 
was  sufficient. 


The  waiters  were  paid  by  the  committee ; 
it  being  in  a  country  town  they  found 
waiters  enough  to  volunteer  for  the  occa- 
sion for  little  or  nothing;  if  paid,  the  15  or 
20  waiters  and  helpers  would  have  cost 
$10  to  $15.  The  kitchen  work  required 
assistants  who  were  paid  altogether  $5.50, 
the  skilled  labor  together  with  time  lost  in 
preliminary  arrangements  amounted  to  5 
days  and  the  night  of  the  supper,  besides. 

A  YOUNG  LADY'S  BIRTHDAY   RECEPTION 
FOR  50. 

Had  2  small  turkey  galantines ;  one  sliced 
on  plates,  other  decorated  in  a  mould  of 
aspic  on  table  and  about  half  used. 

Chicken  salad  of  4  chickens  and  i  do*, 
heads  of  celery  and  one  quart  of  dressing, 
all  used. 

Charlotte  russe,  had  50  individual  size  in 
ornamental  white  paper  cases ;  cake  portion 
made  with  a  3-pound  sponge  cake  mixture, 
that  is,  with  3  pounds  sugar,  2  doz.  eggs 
and  2^f  flour;  rilling  with  3  quarts  whipped 
cream  stiffened  with  i  package  gelatine,  i 
pound  sugar. 

Meringue  shells  rilled  with  jelly ;  had  50 
pairs,  size  of  ducks'  eggs,  baked  on  boards, 
scooped  out,  filled  like  saucers  in  pairs, 
with  2  colors  of  jelly  cut  in  cubes  and 
mixed — had  3  quarts  jelly,  part  maraschino, 
remainder  port  wine. 

White  cakes  and  layer  cakes  decorated, 
on  table. 

Bisque  of  preserved  ginger  ice  cream; 
had  8  quarts. 

Lemonade.  Biscuits.  Candies.  Ma- 
laga Grapes. 

Quantities  about  right;  a  little  of  each 
left  over,  but  not  more  than  was  wanted. 

SNOW-BOUND    DINNER. 

Dinner  for  about  200  railroad  passengers 
snow-bound  on  a  train  in  the  far  West; 
dinner  given  free  by  the  railroad  company 
at  the  next  station  reached.  Made  a  west- 
ern hotel  dinner,  but  greater  part  ready  set 
on  two  long  tables.  i 

Cooked  and  used: 

Fresh  meats,  100  pounds  (raw  weight). 

Ham,  20  pounds. 


130 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


Chickens,  40  pounds. 

Clams  in  baked  chowder,  12  cant. 

Oysters  in  soup,  20  cans. 

Lobster  in  salad,  8  cans. 

Potatoes,  75  pounds. 

Pies,  48. 

Tarts,  various,  150. 

Cake,  28  pounds. 

Pudding,  4  quarts. 

Charlotte  russe,  12  quarts,  in  15  moulds 
on  tables. 

Jelly,  13  quarts,  in  18  moulds  on  tables. 

Bread,  and  various  vegetables,  not 
counted. 

Coffee,  about  15  gallons. 

CHURCH   FESTIVAL. 

"To  be  as  cheap  as  possible,"  to  raise 
money  to  pay  the  pastor.  Committee  fur- 
nished the  raw  material  only ;  the  hotel- 
keeper  gave  everything  else,  use  of  rooms, 
fire,  lights,  cooking  and  incidental  labor. 

The  raw  material  cost  the  church  com- 
mittee about  $15.  Prices  were  higher  then 
than  now.  Had  about  100  persons  to  sup- 
per, which  was  made  up  of: 

Ham  sandwiches,  7^  pounds,  of  which 
5  pounds  was  ham,  net  trimmed,  which  is 
equal  to  a  9-pound  ham  raw. 

Pressed  corned  beef,  sliced  on  dishes, 
decorated,  4  pounds. 

Yeast-raised  short  biscuits,  ico. 

Bread,  6  loaves,  sliced. 

Fancy  small  pastries,  showy,  cheap,  too. 

Cream  puffs,  120. 

Lemon  jelly,  3  quarts. 

Macaroons  and  kisses,  made  of  3  pounds 
sugar,  i  pound  almonds. 

Cakes,  about  9  pounds. 

Coffee,  used  4  pounds  Java. 

Tea,  used  4  ounces. 

Cream  for  coffee,  2  quarts. 

There  was  no  ice  cream. 

The  cost  of  material  was  about  15  cents 
per  head.  About  12  pounds  butter  was 
used,  some  upon  the  table,  rest  in  cakes, 
etc.,  and  15  pounds  sugar,  and  a  gallon  of 
milk,  some  citron  and  lemons. 

CLUB    RECEPTION. 

For  26  persons,  both  ladies  and  gentle- 
men, the  material  cost  about  $60,  of  which 


$20  was  for  terrapin.  Flowers  and  florists 
services  about  $40;  catering  about  $40;  and 
with  the  hire  of  ten  different  sets  and  pat- 
terns of  china  and  other  incidentals  the 
total  cost  to  the  giver  of  the  party  was 
something  over  $200,  without  the  wines, 
or,  making  a  round  estimate  to  include 
wine,  say  $10  per  plate.  The  caterer  was 
instructed  on  various  points  and,  among 
others,  not  to  give  them  a  clear  soup — 
"  they  were  so  tired  of  clear  soups." 

A  table  was  handsomely  set  in  the  club 
drawing-room  for  this  special  occasion,  not 
to  disturb  the  regular  daily  arrangements 
of  the  club;  a  florist  being  employed  to  de- 
corate it  with  designs  and  bouquets  and  to 
festoon  the  chandeliers.  Several  tall  de- 
corated dishes  and  ornamental  cakes  were 
set  on  table  amidst  the  green. 

First.  Passed  around  pony  glasses  of 
whisky  cocktail. 

Second.  Cream  of  cauliflower  soup — 
cauliflower  (fiom  a  distance)  and  soup  cost 
about  $1.25. 

Third.  Deviled  oysters  in  shell,  cost 
with  garnishing  about  $2.50. 

Fourth.     Celery,  imported,  $2.50. 

Fifth.  Turkey  stuffed  with  chestnuts,  i 
turkey  $1.40,  with  vegetables,  jelly  and 
trimmings  whole  cost  $3.75. 

Sixth.  Brains  saute"s  in  butter,  with 
vegetables,  garnishing,  etc.,  cost  $4.35. 

Seventh.  Terrapin  with  wine  and  gar- 
nishings,  $21.40. 

Eighth.     Curacoa  punch,  $1.60. 

Ninth.  Roast  quail,  $4.30,  bardes,  chips, 
endive  salad,  garnish,  etc.,  whole  cost, 
$6.20. 

Tenth.  Ornamental  pieces  (galantine  of 
partridges  flanked  with  larks  in  aspic),  cost 
of  material,  $5.10. 

Eleventh.  Harlequin  ice  cream  and 
moulded  jellies  in  ornamental  borders  filled 
with  maraschino  whipped  cream,  cost 
$3.60. 

Twelfth.     Assorted  fruit,  $3  50. 

Thirteenth.  Coffee,  cream,  incidentals, 
about  75  cents. 

Wines,  etc.,  from  the  club  cellars. 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


131 


COLD   LUNCH   FOR   3OO. 

Governor's   Guard   and  other    military 
companies  passing  through. 
Prepared  and  used: 

1.  Salted  round  of  beef,  bound  around 
with  twine,  boiled,  pressed  while  cooling ; 
raw  weight  50  pounds,  weight  when  cooked 
37  pounds.     All  used. 

2.  Bread,  48  bakers'  loaves. 

3.  Cold  ham,  2  hams,  raw  weight  18 
pounds;  weight  when  cooked  12  pounds. 
All  used. 

4.  Ham   sandwiches,   300;   made  of   2 
hams,  raw  weight  25  pounds,  net  cooked 
meat  18  pounds. 

5.  Salad  of  10  fowls  and  6  doz.  heads 
celery,  some  cabbage  to  mix  in ;  about  20 
quarts  of  salad  on  20  dishes. 

6.  Tarts,  puff  paste  with  apple  jam ;  300 
all  used. 

7.  Butter  on  table,  used  10  pounds. 

8.  Cake,  on  table,  20  pounds ;  half   left 
over. 

9.  Ice  cream,  6  gallons  used. 

10.  Fruit  on  table,  apples,  oranges,  not 
counted. 

n.  Coffee,  15  gallons;  not  much  left 
over. 

12.  Sugar  on  table,  used  about  12  Ibs. 

13.  Milk   for  coffee,   mustard,    sauces, 
etc.,  not  counted. 

Had  30  waiters. 

PRIVATE    RECEPTION. 

For  70,  in  May,  at  a  family  residence ; 
parlor  and  dining  room  connected  by  slid- 
ing doors.  Hostess  provided  material  on 
written  requisition ;  work  done  in  the  house. 
Florist  called  in,  decorated  dining  room 
with  a  central  design  and  festooned  room 
and  chandelier.  Had  on  table  six  deco- 
rated dishes,  of  which  two  were  cakes  with 
sugar  work  and  baskets  about  20  inches 
high,  set  to  flank  the  floral  design  in  center; 
two  were  decorated  salads  at  opposite 
corners  of  table ;  one  was  a  border  mould 
of  jelly  filled  with  whipped  cream,  the 
other  rings  of  meringue  baked  separately, 
built  up,  decorated  and  inside  filled  with 
stiffened  cream  and  chopped  jelly.  More 


of  same  kinds  on  dishes  in  the  pantry 
outside,  together  with: 

i.     Rolled  sandwiches. 

a.     Shaved  smoked  tongue. 

3.  Cheese  straws. 

4.  Shrimp  salad. 

5.  Chicken  salad. 

6.  Claret  cup. 

7.  Assorted  cakes. 

8.  Mammoth    strawberries  with   pow 
dered  sugar. 

9.  Ice  cups  or  bombes,  of  red  raspberry 
water  ice    frozen  in  6  doz.  tumblers  and 
filled  with  green  pistachio  ice  cream. 

10.  Vienna  coffee  in  small  cups. 
Guests,  being  over  70  in  a  private  house, 

sat  around  on  sofas,  chairs,  settees,  etc., 
informally,  and  stood  around  the  dining 
room,  and  waiters  carried  plates  from  the 
pantry  with  portions  to  them.  After  first 
round  gentlemen  began  and  helped  the 
ladies  from  the  show  dishes  on  table. 
Hostess  made  and  served  the  coffee  herself 
from  a  swinging  silver  urn  in  the  dining 
room. 

Expen  ses  without  provision  s :  florist,  $15; 
music,  3  pieces,  $7;  caterer,  $25;  5  waiters, 
$5.50.  Incidentals,  extra 'hire,  wagons, 
carriages,  etc.,  not  counted. 

CATERING    EXPERIENCE     OF     AN     ENGLISH 
MANAGER. 

"Many  land  owners  give  audit  dinners 
(or  rent  day  dinners)  in  hotels,  when  the 
tenant  farmers  come  to  pay  their  rent. 
These  dinners  are  sometimes  very  cheap, 
still  they  are  often  attended  by  a  large 
number  of  guests,  and  it  requires  some 
close  calculation  to  render  them  profitable 
as  well  as  successful.  Served: 

DINNER   FOR  6  AT  60  CENTS.        (2S.  6D.) 

Salmon  and  Parsley  Sauce. 

Roast  Leg  of  Mutton. 

Cauliflowers,        Potatoes. 

Rhubarb  Tart.  Custard  Puddings. 

Bread.     Cheese.     Butter.    Salad. 
Wines  or  beer  extra.      (.No  coffee.) 

DINNER   FOR  30  AT  65  CENTS.      (2S.  pd.) 

Spring  Soup. 

Turbot  and  Lobster  Sauce. 
Boiled  Fowls.         Bacon. 

Roast  Beef.     Horseradish  Sauce. 

Two  Vegetables. 

Apple  Tarts.        Cream. 

Bread.         Butter.        Cheese.        Salad. 

Wines  or  beer  extra. 


182 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


DINNER  FOR   I£O  AT  6j  CENTS.      (2S.  9D.) 

Mock  Turtle  and  Clear  Soups. 

Serving-Table. 

3  Ribs,  3  Sirloins  Beef. 

I  Boiled  Round  of  Beef. 

Chairman. 

a  Roast,  3  Boiled  Legs  Mutton. 

8  Veal  and  Ham  Pies. 

^ 

^              j 

<)                    <! 

j 

V>  Cauliflowers.        I  Sack  Potatoes. 
16  Rhubarb  Tarts.        16  Cabinet  Puddings. 

~' 

|             1. 

1.          e 

I 

150  Dinner  Rolls. 

H 

r. 

O                            0 

3              3 

• 

Bread,  Butter,  Cheese,  and  Biscuits. 

• 

g             S 

CA                            W 

" 

Wines  or  beer  extra. 

LUNCH  FOR  $0  AT  $I.2O.       (JS.) 

S 

a 

to 

Clear  and  Ox-tail  Soups. 

'£. 

3 

o 

2    1 

I 
o 

£.               £ 

s   ^ 

o    » 

COLD. 

8 

X 

!?              <? 

x 

?               1 

^    * 

a  Fore  Quarters  Lamb.        I  Sirloin  Beef. 

S 

• 

S 

•* 

5    "* 

3  Veal  and  Ham  Pies.      2  Tongues. 

to 

fa 

u. 

8  Roast  Fowls.        i  Ham. 

a  Mavonnaise  Salmon.    4  Lobster  Salads. 

4  Jellies.    4  Creams.      4  Fancy  Pasties. 

*; 

$5              ^ 

-;                 g 

^ 

Wines,  etc.,  extra. 

g 

2s            S5 

-                 p 

J 

I 

!      f 

f                f 

8 

LUNCH  FOR  275  AT  75  CEN'TS.      (38.) 

• 

CQ                              00 

GO                              W 

P 

90  Quarts  Clear  Soup. 

COLD. 

4  Large  Joints  Roast  Beef. 

Serving-Table. 

4  Roast  Legs  Mutton. 

48  Fowls. 

2  Large  Hams. 

a  Galantines  of  Veal. 

2  Pieces  Pressed  Beef. 

8  Steak  Pies. 

8  Veal  and  Ham  Pies. 

18  Jellies.         18  Creams. 

18  St.  Clair  Puddings. 
18  Rhubarb  Tarts  in  deep  soup  plates. 

18  Mince  Pies  in  deep  soup  plates. 

a$o  Rolls.        Cut  Bread,  Butter,  Cheese,  etc. 

ij£  Sack  Potatoes.    75  Cauliflowers. 

Wines  or  beer  extra. 


"The  autumn  bills  of  fare  can  be  served 
at  the  same  rate;  but  substituting  thick 
soups  for  clear,  giving  such  fish  as  may  be 
in  season,  and  adding  roast  pork  to  the 
menu. 

"To  avoid  confusion  (if  possible)  I  allot 
two  rooms,  one  for  the  landlord,  or  his 
agent,  to  use  as  an  office  where  each  tenant 
pays  his  rent.  The  tenants  wait  in  the 
smoking,  billiard,  or  other  public  rooms; 
and,  if  they  number  only  twenty  or  thirty, 
I  have  their  dinner  spread  in  the  ladies' 
coffee-room,  made  private  for  the  time 
being.  But  in  cases  where  there  are  over 
a  hundred  I  manage  this  way. 

"We  will  take  No.  3  dinner  served  as 
follows;  I  had  three  long  tables  (seating 
fifty  persons  at  each)  down  the  room,  and 
a  serving  table  top  and  bottom. 


As  the  price  was  so  low,  I  could  not  afford 
to  hire  special  waiters,  so  placed  my  ov/n, 
one  on  either  side  of  each  table,  giving  him 
two  girls,  housemaids  or  otherwise,  one  on 
each  hand,  thus  allowing  one  waitress  to 
every  eight  guests,  and  one  waiter  to  nine 
ditto.  Ten  minutes  before  dinner  time  I 
marshalled  them  in  their  places,  indicating 
how  far  down  the  table  each  was  to  look 
after  the  comfort  of  the  visitors,  and  strictly 
enjoining  that  no  one  should  run  about  or 
•wait  on  any  fart  of  the  table  other  than  that 
allotted  to  him  or  her.  Each  waiter  was 
instructed  to  keep  a  sharp  look  out  all 
down  his  side  of  the  table  to  see  that  the 
two  waitresses  were  serving  correctly,  their 
experience  not  being  equal  to  his. 

"Having  settled  the  question  of  atten- 
dance, I  had  the  porters  ready  to  bring  up 
at  a  moment's  notice  the  soup,  joints,  and 
vegetables  all  boiling  hot  from  the  kitchen. 
Four  servers  took  their  position  at  the  top 
serving-table,  another  four  going  to  the 
bottom.  Directly  the  guests  entered,  the 
porters  brought  up  the  soup  in  the  stock 
pots  (covered  round  with  coarse  white 
cloths).  There  was  no  need  for  hot  soup 
plates,  as  the  liquor  was  actually  boiling  on 
the  serving  tables.  The  eight  servers  soon 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


133 


supplied  the  eighteen  attendants,  who  as 
quickly  served  the  guests;  and  as  they 
collected  the  dirty  soup  plates,  the  servers 
were  carving  the  joints  and  pies,  two  of 
their  number  transferring  the  vegetables 
direct  from  the  steamers  into  dishes  to 
hand  round  as  required.  This  arrange- 
ment ensuring,  as  it  did,  fresh  and  hot 
vegetables  was  much  appreciated  by  the 
guests.  I  personally  assured  myself,  by 
walking  round  the  tables,  that  every  guest 
was  served,  and  properly  served.  Two 
young  lads  were  deputed  to  go  round  with 
bread  after  the  rolls  were  consumed,  so 
that  no  one  "waited  for  that  very  necessary 
article,  as  is  so  often  the  case  at  large  din- 
ners. 

"At  the  proper  time  the  sweets  were  sent 
round,  and  such  was  the  celerity  of  serving 
that  the  150  diners  were  satisfied;  every- 
thing (not  wanted  on  the  table)  removed ; 
and  the  chairman  rose  to  make  his  speech 
•within  the  hour  from  the  time  of  first  sitting 
down.  The  porters  had  been  taking  away 
the  dirty  plates,  etc.,  during  the  dinner,  so 
that  when  I  withdrew  from  the  room  with 
the  waiters  and  waitresses,  having  only 
been  there  forty-five  minutes,  I  had  noth- 
ing to  do  beyond  dividing  such  sweets  as 
were  left  amongst  the  girls,  who  had  come 
from  their  ordinary  occupations  and  as- 
sisted so  willingly.  I  may  here  add  I  find 
a  little  thoughtful  kindness  like  this  makes 
them  ready  volunteers  for  any  great  pres- 
sure. As  soon  as  the  guests  departed,  I 
took  the  staff  into  the  room  again,  and 
each  one  looked  up  and  secured  the  vari- 
ous things  belonging  to  their  different 
departments,  thus  avoiding  loss  or  con- 
fusion. Three  hours  after  the  dinner 
everything  was  in  proper  order  again,  and 
the  usual  business  of  the  hotel  was  never 
at  any  time  interfered  with. 

"The  above  hints  will  assist  the  experi- 
enced to  serve  dinners  of  any  size,  and  the 
same  rules  may  be  carried  out  with  regard 
to  large  cold  luncheons.  I  have  served 
the  latter  for  700  persons  in  less  than  one 
hour,  with  only  fifteen  waiters  and  thirty 
girl-helpers.  In  the  case  of  the  No.  5 


lunch,  the  fowls  -were  carved  and  dislied, 
and  ham,  pressed  beef,  galantines  of  veal, 
etc.,  sliced  and  served  up  on  salad,  and 
placed  each  side  of  the  fowls.  All  these 
make  very  pretty  dishes,  if  nicely  orna- 
mented with  colored  kale,  parsley,  or 
flowers.  No  one,  unless  they  try  the  plan, 
can  conceive  what  a  saving  is  effected  by 
this  mode  of  serving;  for  what  would  be 
only  one  joint  can  be  made  into  a  dozen 
dishes,  and  each  person  can  help  himself 
to  a  neatly  carved  slice,  whereas  few  can 
carve  under  such  circumstances,  and  much 
fewer  care  to  be  troubled  to  do  so  for 
strangers. 

BASE  BALL  OR  CRICKET  LUNCH   FOR  $O  AT  60  CTS. 

Boiled  Round  of  Beef,  about  20  Ibs. 
Roast  Sirloir  (with  horseradish),  about  20  Ibs. 

2  Beefsteak  Pies,  2  Veal  and  Ham  Pies. 

S  each  Rhubarb  and  Gooseberry  tarts.    8  Custards. 

Salad,  Bread,  Butter,  Cheese,  New  Potatoes 

and  Ice. 


BASE  BALL  LUNCH  FOR  JS  AT  8$  CTS.    (38.  6D.) 

20  Ibs.  Pickled  Salmon  and  Sliced  Cucumber. 

18  Roast  Fowls.     I  Ham. 
Fore  and  Hind  Quarter  Lamb. 

Boiled  Round  Beef. 
Roast  Sirloin,  horseradish. 
12  Fruit  Tarts.     12  Velvet  Creams.     12  Jellies. 
Plenty  of  Salad,  Bread,  Butter,  Cheese,  New  Pota- 
toes, and  Ice. 

BASE  BALL  LUNCH   FOR    IOO  AT  ONE  DOLLAR. 

Mayonnaise  of  Salmon,  30  Ibs. 
Pressed  Beef.  4  Pigeon  Pies. 

Roast  Sirloin  Beef,  horseradish. 

18  Roast  Fowls.         4  Tongues.        i  Ham. 

12  Swiss  Pastry.    8  Assorted  ditto.    4  Fruit  Tarts. 

18  Dishes  Stewed  Fruits.   6  Devonshire  Cream. 

Plenty  of  Salad,   Bread,    Butter,   New   Potatoes, 

Peas,  and  Ice. 


BASE  BALL  OR  CRICKET  LUNCH  FOR  So 
AT  $1.20.   (SS.) 

20  Ibs.  Mayonnaise  of  Salmon.        6  Lobster  Salads. 

1  Forced  Turkey.      2  Targets  of  Lamb. 

4  Pates  de  Foie  Gras  in  Aspic.     4  Raised  Pies. 

12  Roast  Fowls,     i  York  Ham.    3  Tongues. 

i  Roast  Sirloin  Beef.    8  Boiled  Fowls  "Bechamel." 

6  Dishes  Compotes  Fruit.     2  Genoise  Pastry. 

2  Dishes  Baba  Cakes.      2  Small  Pastry. 

6  Dishes  Fruit  Tarts.    6  Custards. 

6  Dishes  Stewed  P'ruit.    6  Devonshire  Cream. 

Plenty  Salad,  Bread,  Butter,  Cheese,  New  Potatoes, 

Green  Peas,  and  Ice. 


"The  foregoing  were  all  supplied  on  the 
field,  in  a  tent  erected  for  that  purpose. 
We  did  not  provide  the  tent  nor  seats,  but 
sent  everything  else,  such  as  plate,  glass 
cutlery,  linen,  kettles,  saucepans,  washing- 
up  tins  and  cloths.  We  had  a  small  Amer- 
ican stove  on  the  outside  of  the  tent,  and 
cooked  the  new  potatoes  and  green  peas 


134 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


when  required — everything  else  was  sent 
ready  prepared  from  the  hotel;  but  we 
dished  and  decorated  the  luncheon  after 
Its  arrival,  so  that  it  looked  perfectly  fresh. 
Everything  that  would  admit  of  it  was 
carved  beforehand  and  dished,  so  that 
guests  could  help  themselves ;  the  waiters 
cutting  the  heavy  joints  as  required,  pass- 
ing round  the  vegetables,  bread,  etc.,  as 
wanted,  and  attending  to  the  orders  for 
wines,  which  were  under  the  special  charge 
of  the  headwaiter.  Every  bottle  of  wine, 
spirits,  beer,  or  mineral  water  was  booked 
to  him,  and  after  the  luncheon  he  was  re- 
quired to  return  either  the  stock  in  full  or 
its  value  in  money.  We  made  a  sort  of 
bar-counter  at  the  end  of  the  tent  so  as  to 
avoid  all  delay  in  serving.  I  may  here 
add  that  this  temporary  bar  did  duty  all 
day  for  whatever  drinks  were  required. 
(Mem.:  It  is  necessary  to  obtain  a  special 
license  from  the  magistrates  to  enable  any 
one  to  sell  excisable  articles  at  or  in  any 
other  place  than  their  own  properly  licensed 
premises;  but  you  may  pack  any  quantity 
from  the  hotel  in  a  luncheon-basket  with- 
out the  special  license,  provided  it  is  or- 
dered and  paid  for  in  the  hotel,  and  not 
retailed  or  sold  afterwards.)  When  serving 
out-door  luncheons,  etc.,  be  sure  to  be  well 
supplied  with  bread,  salt,  etc.,  etc.,  cork- 
screws, champagne-nippers,  ice,  ice-ham- 
mers, needles,  washing-up  tins  and  cloths. 
I  have  known  most  excellent  repasts  al- 
most spoiled  by  the  omission  of  one  or 
more  of  these  very  necessary  articles.  Also 
be  careful  to  have  a  plentiful  supply  of 
good  water  carried  up  to  the  field,  if  there 
is  not  a  well  very  near. 

"  I  have  always  had  the  viands  taken  up 
in  locked-up  boxes,  keeping  the  jellies, 
creams,  etc.,  in  their  moulds  till  really 
needed  to  place  on  the  table.  The  chef  has 
gone  up  to  the  cricket  field  and  turned  out 
the  sweets  at  the  given  time,  as  we  easily 
procured  hot  water  from  the  American 
stove  for  dipping  the  jelly  and  cream 
moulds  into.  At  the  same  time  he  also 
carved  and  dished  up  the  fowls,  so  they  did 
not  become  dry  from  standing  long  ex- 


posed. Flowers,  parsley,  and  other  gar- 
nishes should  be  put  on  the  different  viands 
the  last  thing,  as  they  so  soon  lose  their 
freshness. 

"The  above  bills  of  fare  are  only  intended 
as  examples  when  the  luncheons  are  given 
outside  the  house  and  at  moderate  prices. 
I  have  always  found  that  simple,  but  sub- 
stantial, dishes  are  much  preferred  by  the 
hungry  cricketers  to  what  Shakespeare 
calls  "pretty,  tiny  little  kickshaws." 
Should,  however,  the  match-ground  be 
near  enough  for  the  players  to  come  to  the 
hotel,  a  much  more  varied  repast  can  be 
given  for  the  same  price,  as  the  labor  and 
loss  of  serving  in  the  house  is  nil  when 
compared  with  the  trouble  and  expense  of 
catering  at  a  distance.  I  have  had  many 
cricket-luncheons  served  in  the  hotel  when 
to  the  quoted  bills  of  fare  have  been  added 
clear  soup — if  the  club  wished — or  some 
nice  little  entree,  such  as  mutton  cutlets 
and  fresh  tomatoes,  fillets  of  beef  and  mush- 
rooms, lamb  chops  and  asparagus,  hot 
crabs  or  lobsters  and  cucumbers.  This 
last  dish,  by  the  way,  was  always  so  much 
liked  that  we  never  could  quite  satisfy  the 
many  who  wanted  a  second  helping. 

"  It  will  be  well  to  mention  here  that  I 
have  found  it  more  satisfactory  to  supply 
one  good  entr&e,  but  plenty  of  it,  than  a  little 
of  two  or  three  kinds ;  for  it  is  a  curious 
fact  nearly  all  want  the  same,  and  it  is 
mortifying  after  an  entr&e  has  served  about 
a  dozen  to  find  twenty  other  guests  asking 
for  that  particular  dish,  and  obliged  to  go 
without,  whereas  there  may  be  a  couple  of 
entries  scarcely  touched  at  all. 

"I  remember  on  one  occasion  serving 
fifty  splendid  hot  crabs  and  cutting  up 
twenty  large  cucumbers  (in  vinegar  with 
pepper  and  salt,  the  same  as  would  be 
served  with  salmon),  and  not  an  atom  of 
either  was  left;  whereas  a  dish  of  beef  ris- 
soles was  untouched,  and  only  one  eaten 
from  the  chicken  and  ham  patties. 

"  Do  not  forget  to  have  plenty  of  ice  on 
the  tables,  whether  the  refreshments  be 
served  in  the  house  or  on  the  field ;  nor  yet 
when  luncheon  baskets  are  packed  for 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK.  135 


races  or  picnics.  Much  the  same  fare  will 
do  on  any  or  all  occasions;  only  when 
packing  for  races  I  have  always  had  the 
fowls  carved  and  tied  together  with  white 
ribbon ;  salad  nicely  washed  and  placed  in 
tin  cases;  salad-dressing  and  mint  sauce 
made  and  bottled ;  butter,  cheese,  etc.,  etc., 
put  into  earthenware  pots,  with  a  plentiful 
supply  of  bread,  salt,  pepper,  mustard,  etc., 
not  forgetting  the  corkscrews,  nippers,  ice, 


ice-needles  and  hammer;  also  napkins, 
crockery,  cutlery,  glass,  spoons,  forks,  and 
requisites  for  washing-up  purposes. 

"NOTE. — Unless  the  committee  finds 
the  tents,  seats,  etc.,  an  extra  charge  must 
be  added  for  these  in  accordance  with  the 
hire-payment  made  by  the  hotel-keeper." 
— From  the  London  Caterer  and  Hotel 
Proprietor's  Gazette. 


.A.    IR-IEOIEIE'TIOlsr. 
COMPLIMENTARY    TO    A   LADY    AT    A    MEMPHIS    HOTEL. 


E  N 


BOUILLON. 
"From  the  hand  to  the  mouth  the  soup  is  often  lost." — Trans,  fr.  Fr. 


CELERY. 

FRIED    OYSTERS. 

"An  oyster  may  be  crossed  in  love." — Sheridan. 


PETITS  BOUCHEES,  AUX  SALPICON. 

"  Such  dainties  to  men,  their  health  it  might  hurt, 

It's  like  sending-  them  ruffles  when  wanting  a  shirt." — Goldsmith. 


DEVILED    CRABS,    IN    SHELLS. 
"  He  must  have  a  long  spoon  that  must  eat  with  the  Devil."  —  Comedy  of  Errors. 


COLD—  ROAST    TURKEY.  OX    TONGUE. 

"  There's  cold  meat  in  the  cave,  I  browse  on  ftaA.."—Cymbeline. 


CANETON    DESOSSE.  GALANTINE    DE    VOLAILLE. 

CAP.— What's  there?    1ST  SERV. — Things  for  the  cook,  sir;  I  know  not  what. — Romeo  and  Juliet. 

PAIN    DE    GIBIER,    AUX    TRUFFES. 
1    "Ay!    That  way  goes  the  game." — Tempest. 


MAYONNAISE    OF    SHRIMPS. 
"  This  sort  were  well  fished  for." 


CHARLOTTE    RUSSE.  VANILLA  ICE  CREAM. 

'These  trifles  will  lead  to  serious  mischief."  "You  are  the  vanilla  of  society." 

—Horace.  —Sydney  Smith. 

ASSORTED    CAKES. 
"  Would'st  thou  both  eat  thy  cake  and  have  '^"—Herbert. 


MALAGA    GRAPES. 
••  Meaning  thereby  that  grapes  were  made  to  eat  and  lips  to  open."— As  you  like  it. 


COFFEE. 
"The  cups  that  cheer,  but  do  not  inebriate." — Coivper, 


"Night  wears  away,  and  morn  is  near,  the  stars  are  high,  two-thirds  of  night  are  past; 
The  greater  part, — and  scarce  a  third  remains." — Bryant. 


"On  with  the  dance!  let  joy  be  unconfin'd;  no  sleep  till  morn,  when  youth  and  pleasure  meet."— Byron. 
JANUAKY  13,  1888. 


FANTASIES  OF  PARTY  GIVERS. 


It  has  been  remarked  already,  the  whole 
world  of  party  givers  are  constantly  strain- 
ing after  something  new,  or,  if  not  a  fresh 
invention,  something  new  to  their  own 
circle,  and  by  way  of  showing  what  devices 
are  hit  upon,  we  will  give  specimens 
gathered  from  various  sources.  And,  first, 
the  series  of  dinners  of  one  prevailing 
color. 

A   PINK    DINNER    IN    WASHINGTON. 

"  In  the  dining  i  oom  the  idea  of  a  pink 
dinner  had  been  carried  out  in  every 
detail,  even  to  the  pink  globes  on  the  large 
chandelier.  The  centrepiece  of  the  table 
was  composed  of  an  elongated  square  of 
ferns,  the  four  corners  formed  of  great 
clusters  of  odorous  carnations,  while  from 
the  middle  rose  long-stemmed  and  La 
France  and  American  beauty  roses.  At 
each  of  the  four  corners  were  fairy  lamps 
under  pink  shades.  The  silver  candelabra 
were  filled  with  candles  under  shades  of 
the  same  color.  The  menu  was  printed 
on  a  broad  piece  of  pink  satin  ribbon, 
fringed  at  either  end,  and  bearing  on  the 
left-hand  corner  at  the  top  the  name  of  the 
guest  for  whom  it  was  intended.  The 
rolls  at  each  plate,  cheese  sticks  and  wafers, 
were  tied  up  in  small  bundles  with  a  tiny 
pink  ribbon,  while  the  icing  of  the  small 
cakes,  confections,  and  ice  cream  were  all 
of  the  same  color.  The  individual  salt 
cellars  and  punch  glasses  were  also  pink. 
A  boutonniere  of  carnation,  or  pink  rose 
bud,  lay  at  each  plate.  On  the  mantels 
were  large  vases  of  white  chrysanthe- 
mums." 

A    YELLOW    DINNER    IN    BOSTON. 

"  In  dinner-party  arrangements  a  pretty 
custom  is  rapidly  gaining  ground;  this  is 
to  make  one  color  in  varied  shades  rule 
the  roast,  and  to  have  one  flower  the  pre- 
siding genius  of  the  feast.  Take  the  yel- 
low, for  instance.  Golden-hued  chrysan- 
themums would  be  the  most  appropriate 


bloom  to  harmonize  with  this  color  in  the 
shades  of  the  large  lamps  on  the  side  tables 
and  sideboard,  and  the  delicate  fairy  lamps 
marshalled  on  the  dinner  table.  Careless 
posies  of  the  same  flower  are  suspended 
over  the  heads  of  the  diners,  and  separate 
sprays  lie  carelessly  at  their  sides,  and 
grouped  together,  decorate  the  center  of 
the  table.  All  the  service  used  at  the  meal 
must  be  in  harmony,  and  in  some  instances 
the  very  cloth  covering  the  table  is  of  pale 
canary  satin.  At  one  dinner  of  eight  a 
well-known  entertainer  carried  out  the 
golden  lead  in  the  viands  themselves — the 
soup  was  golden,  so  also  were  the  fish  and 
its  sauce,  entrees,  sweets,  and  dessert  all 
following  suit." 

A   WHITE    DINNER    IN    LONDON. 

"  During  lent  dinners  au  blanc,  or  white 
dinners,  are  fashionable.  In  many  houses 
the  fair,  white  damask  tablecloths  replace 
the  covers  of  colored  velvet,  satin,  plush, 
or  sateens  with  their  exquisite  surdoths  of 
laces,  or,  if  colors  are  used,  it  is  the  soft 
violet  shade,  so  beloved  by  the  adherents 
to  the  third  empire  in  France  and  the  high 
church  party  in  England.  This  is  the 
menu  of  a  white  dinner  recently  given. 
MENU  BLANC. 

Hors  <f(Euvre. 
Hultres  en  Coquille. 

Soups. 
Potage  au  riz.          Puree  de  Morue. 

Poisson. 
Brochet  au  Citron.          Alose  a  la  Matrons. 

Releves. 
Poulette  au  blanc.  Filet  de  Veau  a  la  Pere  Francois. 

Entrees. 

CEufs  Farcies.     Rissoles  de  Boeuf.     Filets  de 
Canards  aux  Navets. 

Roti. 
Agneau.        Carr£  de  Pore  Roti. 

Entremets.          * 
Creme  de  Noyau.     Pannier  de  Roseblanc. 

Frangepane  de  Moelle. 
Canapees  de  Fromage  a  la  Diable. 


Glaces. 

Citron.        Cerises  Blanc. 
Dessert. 


(136) 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


137 


A    VIOLET    SUPPER. 

"A  '  Cinderalla'  supper,  recently  served 
in  Paris,  was  rendered  quite  charming  by 
the  free  introduction  of  the  modest  flower 
which  'opens  with  the  earliest  breath  of 
spring.'  All  the  ladies  wore  violets  in 
abundance  on  their  white  dresses,  and  each 
gentleman  wore  a  button-hole  of  the  poet- 
lauded  flower.  Supper  was  served  at  little 
tables — the  parties  carrees,  or  sets  of  four, 
being  quite  usual  in  Paris  now.  Each 
table  was,  instead  of  being  covered  with  a 
cloth,  strewed  with  a  bed  of  fragrant  pale- 
tinted  violets." 

A    DINNER    IN    SCARLET    AND   BLACK. 

l>  O.ie  of  the  dinner-table  decorations  for 
this  season  is  Mephistophelian,  out  of 
compliment,  doubtless,  to  the  great  Lypeum 
success.  It  is  done  entirely  in  flame-color 
flowers  with  black  foliage,  and  is  beautifully 
diabolic.  The  candle  shades  are  also  flame- 
color,  and  the  menu  the  same." 

A    PINK    ROSE    DINNER. 

"  One  of  the  notions  in  table  decoration  is 
a  pink  satin  tablecloth  of  the  very  palest 
tone.  Only  eight  inches  of  this  is,  how- 
ever, visible,  merely  enough  to  allow  room 
for  the  plates.  All  the  rest  of  the  table  is 
hidden  by  grey  gypsophila.  In  this  is 
intermixed  all  tones  of  pink  roses  from  the 
lightest  to  the  deepest  shade.  In  front  of 
each  guest  is  a  slender  glass  vase  with  a 
rose.  Those  who  have  never  tried  the 
grassy  gypsophila  for  decorating  tables  are 
recommended  to  do  so,  for  it  is  both  beau- 
tiful and  durable." 

A   WHITE    LILY   DINNER. 

"The  floral  decorations  at  fashionable 
tables  this  season  have  been  largely  con- 
fined to  one  color.  At  a  dinner  given 
recently  at  the  Russian  Embassy  a  charm- 
ing effect  was  obtained  with  one  single 
kind  of  flower — the  white  lily.  Every 
variety  of  this  exquisite  bloom  was  used, 
however,  but  beyond  their  own  green 
leaves  and  creamy  buds  and  a  lovely 
bronze  foliage,  judiciously  blended,  there 


was  no  mixture  whatever,  and  a  more  per- 
fect result  could  not  possibly  be  imagined." 

A    MERMAID   DINNER. 

"  A  fish  dinner  has  lately  been  the  fash- 
ionable novelty  in  New  York.  Not  only 
was  the  menu  unique,  but  so  also  was  the 
costume  of  one  of  the  belles  who  graced 
the  occasion.  The  private  dining-room 
was  turned  into  a  bower  of  bright  green, 
with  seaweeds  in  profusion  and  quaint 
embellishments  of  shells,  while  borrowed 
pictures  of  pisciculture  and  water  com- 
pleted the  aquatic  decoration.  However, 
it  was  in  one  of  the  elaborate  toilets  that  a 
clever  conceit  was  most  remarkably  car- 
ried out.  The  wearer  was  a  pretty  girl, 
and  belonged  to  a  distinguished  family. 
Her  hair  was  loosened  and  embellished 
with  sea-grass,  a  necklace  and  bracelets 
were  pearls  and  coral ;  the  sleeveless  and 
low-cut  corsage  was  delicate  pink  satin, 
shading  off  into  the  green  of  draperies 
fashioned  in  artistic  imitation  of  a  mer- 
maid's lower  half.  The  scaliness  of  a  fish 
was  imitated  by  means  of  bead-work,  the 
skirt  was  narrow,  and  a  short  train  was 
shaped  like  the  tail  of  a  fish." 

CROWNS,  STARS    AND    DIAMONDS. 

"The  floral  decorations  at  fashionable 
dinner-parties  are  often  arranged  on  a 
novel  plan.  At  a  recent  Belgravian  dinner 
a  crown  was  made  the  central  feature  of 
the  table.  The  cloth  was  left  white,  and 
in  the  center  was  a  white  satin  cushion, 
upon  which  was  placed  a  crown  of  the 
most  vivid  crimson  flowers,  and  from  it 
long  trails  of  crimson  flowers  reached  to 
the  four  corners  of  the  table;  a  few  small 
dishes  of  flowers  at  the  head  and  foot  of 
the  table  completed  it.  But  dishes  or 
vases  are  very  little  used  now — the  flowers 
are  arranged  on  the  cloth.  The  star  shape 
is  a  most  effective  form  of  placing  them, 
and  is  most  beautiful  when  a  cunning  hand 
has  led  the  color  by  gradations,  from  a 
vivid  center  to  a  pale  shade  at  the  points, 
where  the  tapering  ray  should  end  in  a 
single  leaf. 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


139 


THE    PLATEAU. 

The  engraving  on  the  preceding  page 
makes  it  easy  to  explain  what  is  meant  by 
Ihe  very  old  and  most  enduring  fashion  of 
the  plateau  or  central  ornament  of  the  din- 
ner table.  The  table  shown  has  no  plateau 
strictly  so  called,  but  it  has  something  in 
the  place  of  it — a  bank  of  moss  and  flowers. 
The  plateau  is,  very  often,  a  mirror  laid 
flat  on  the  table  to  represent  a  lake,  and 
there  must  be — that  is  to  say,  there  used  to 
be — a  rock  castle  or  chateau,  or  monastery 
or  temple,  or  something  of  the  sort,  in  the 
center,  with  boats,  swans,  etc.,  around,  and 
the  edges  of  the  mirror  covered  in  any 
fanciful  way  to  represent  the  shores  of  the 
sheet  of  water.  This  form  is  by  no  means 
abandoned.  Sometimes  now  the  fashion 
takes  the  shape  of  real  water,  with  a  foun- 
tain playing  and  live  fish.  Only  so  re- 
cently as  President  Cleveland's  inaugura- 
tion dinner — to  be  found  mentioned  further 
on — there  was  a  large  mirror  laid  flat  upon 
the  table,  with  at  each  end  a  ship  built  of 
flowers,  and  a  sea-piece  of  the  cook's  make 
was  set  afloat  on  the  mirror.  Another 
thing  to  be  noted  is  the  large  number  of 
glasses  at  each  plate.  For  several  years 
now  perhaps  eight  or  ten — it  has  been  the 
fashionable  rule  to  place  a  different  glass 
for  every  kind  of  wine  all  on  the  table  at 
once  before  the  dinner  began,  as  seen  in 
the  picture.  As  indicating  a  change  of 
this  fashion  there  comes  to  hand,  while 
this  book  is  in  preparation  for  the  press,  a 
letter  from  the  premier  of  all  catering  cor- 
respondents, the  Paris  correspondent  of 
of  the  London  Caterer,  in  which  he  re- 
marks of  "a  dinner  at  the  house  of  one  of 
the  richest  financiers  in  France,  and  the 
dinner  was  worthy  of  the  host: 

"This  dinner  was  served  throughout  on 
crockery  representing  the  best  old  Rouen 
period.  The  glasses  to  each  cover  were 
numerous,  though  it  is  novj  the  fashion  in 
Paris  to  put  one  glass  to  each  cover,  and  to 
Change  the  glass  at  each  fresh  service  of 
wine.  It  is  also  fashionable  to  change  the 
set  of  plates  with  each  course,  that  is  to  say, 
to  have  a  plate  of  a  different  pattern  of 


porcelain  for  each  new  dish.  The  decora- 
tion consisted  of  a  large  epergne  full  of 
flowers,  dishes  of  fruit,  dessert,  etc. 


Potage  Crfime  Princes&e. 

Rissoles  k  la  Pompadour. 

Turbans  de  Soles  a  la  Cardinal. 

Filet  de  Bojuf  a  la  Godard. 

Poularde  a  1'Ivoire. 

Quartier  de  Chevreuil,  Sauce  Poivrade. 
Croustade  de  Koie  Gras  Charvin. 

Salade  a  la  Russe. 

Petits  Pois  a  i'Anglaise. 

Gateau  k  1'Officier  de  i'Acad&flie. 

Glace  Revenez-y. 

Desserts. 

"The  filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Godard  was  an 
English  sirloin  served  with  trimmings  of 
truffles  boiled  in  cognac,  mushrooms  and 
cockscombs.  The  poularde  a  1'ivoire  ap- 
parently owed  its  name  to  the  beautiful 
whiteness  and  firmness  of  the  fowl's  flesh. 
The  quartier  de  chevreuil,  which  was  most 
delicious,  was  served  with  red  currant  jelly, 
a  very  great  improvement,  suggested  to 
her,  as  my  amiable  hostess  said,  by  the 
English  fashion.  The  croustade  de  foie 
gras  was  a  large  timbale  of  most  delicious 
crust.  The  gateau  a  1'officier  de  I'acade'mie 
was  a  sponge-cake  decorated  with  cream. 
Its  name  was  a  topical  allusion  to  the  re- 
cent decoration  of  one  of  the  guests,  the 
most  popular  actor  at  the  Come'die  Fran- 
gaise.  As  for  the  glace  revenez-y  (or  come- 
back-to-the-ice),  it  was  a  tutti-frutti  bomb 
of  particular  excellence. 

"The  wines  served  at  this  dinner  wer; 
claret,  champagne  of  two  kinds,  hock,  and, 
with  the  foie  gras,  some  most  delicious 
Romance  Conti.  This  was  served  cold, 
after  the  fashion  in  Burgundy,  and  being 
cold  made  an  excellent  substitute  for  the 
mid-prandial  sorbet,  or  iced  punch,  which, 
as  will  be  seen,  was  wanting  in  the  above 
menu.  As  a  rule  I  prefer  all  burgundies  at 
normal  temperature.  I  found  the  Romance 
Conti,  however,  on  this  occasion  perfect, 
though  cold.  The  above  menu  was  written 
on  rough-edged  paper,  with  crossed  spoons 
in  the  left-hand  corner,  the  guest's  name 
being  written  obliquely  in  the  right-hand 
corner.  Gaudy  menus  are  out  of  fashion 
in  Paris  just  now,  and  I  am  glad  of  the 
change." 


140 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


"  At  a  dinner  lately  given  by  Mrs. 
Mackay  (wife  of  the  American  'Silver 
King ')  the  flowers  were  arranged  in  this 
star-shape,  the  center  a  heart  of  flame,  and 
the  rays  shading  to  the  palest  tint  as  they 
tapered  off.  The  places  for  the  guests  are 
laid  just  in  between  these  rays;  and  the 
effect,  as  may  be  imagined,  is  exceedingly 
good." 

A    FIGURATIVE    DINNER. 

"  Moore  used  to  speak  of  a  dinner  party 
at  Prince  Esterhazy's,  where  he  had  the 
honor  to  'assist.'  All  the  meats  were 
represented  in  carved  wood,  beautifully 
painted.  The  guest  pointed  to  the  dish  he 
wished  for,  and  servants  brought  it  to  him 
in  its  real  shape." 

A   VARI-COLORED   DINNER    IN   BUFFALO. 

While  the  following  in  the  first  place  is 
only  amusing  it  really  contains  a  service- 
able hint  to  those  who  have  artistic  pieces 
to  display : 

"A  gentleman  who  was  invited  out  to 
dine  at  a  Delaware  residence  lately  ob- 
served that  the  chandelier  over  the  dining- 
room  table  was  of  peculiar  construction  so 
that  there  was  a  light  over  the  head  of 
each  guest.  The  globes  were  of  various 
colors,  some  amber,  some  red,  and  some 
blue.  '  What  is  the  object  of  having  the 
globes  of  different  colors  ? '  the  guest  asked 
of  the  hostess.  'Why,  you  see,'  said  she, 
'when  one  gives  a  dinner  or  tea  one  must 
invite  some  people  whom  one  hates.  Now, 
last  Tuesday  I  gave  a  supper  and  had  to 
invite  two  women  whom  I  despise.  But  I 
had  to  invite  them  or  some  of  the  young 
men  I  wanted  would'nt  come.  I  had  my 
revenge  on  my  fair  enemies,  however.  I 
placed  each  of  these  two  women  under  one 
of  those  pale  blue  lights  at  table.  They're 
usually  considered  beautiful  women,  but 
under  that  light  they  had  the  most  ghastly 
look  you  ever  saw.  They  were  perfect 
scarecrows.  They  seemed  to  have  aged 
twenty  years  the  minute  that  they  sat 
down.  The  men  noticed  it,  of  course,  but 
they  did  not  divine  what  caused  it.  They 


were  quite  taken  aback  and  awfully  glum 
at  first.  But  finally  one  of  them  turned 
with  a  sigh  and  began  talking  with  a  real 
lovely,  homely  little  thing  that  was  kitting 
under  a  ruby-colored  light.  Why,  she 
was  perfectly  charming  under  it.  So  you 
see  that  when  I  want  people  to  look  per- 
fectly hideous  I  put  them  under  the  blue 
lights.  It  kills  everything.'  The  gentle- 
man looked  up.  He  was  under  a  blue 
light." 

A   TROPICAL    DINNER    IN    NEW    YORK. 

"Just  before  Lent  a  tropical  dinner  was 
given  here  by  a  wealthy  man.  The  floral 
decorations  were  all  tropical  plants.  Fo» 
the  ferns,  palms,  ivy,  mandarin  trees 
Florida  and  Central  and  South  America 
were  ransacked.  The  truffles  were  brought 
from  France  and  a  bouquet  of  ten  straw- 
berries was  placed  before  each  guest. 
These  cost  ten  dollars  a  bunch.  The  table 
was  arranged  around  a  miniature  lake,  in 
which  palms,  lillies  and  ferns  appeared  to 
be  growing,  while  tropical  trees  rose  from 
the  banks  amid  miniature  parterres  of 
flowers.  Small  electric  lights,  with  vari- 
colored globes,  were  arranged  about  the 
lake,  and  by  an  unique  arrangement  elec- 
tricity was  introduced  under  the  water  of 
the  lake  and  caused  to  dance  about  in  imi- 
tation of  vari-colored  fish.  Twenty  courses 
were  served.  There  was  no  cloth  on  the 
table.  A  beautiful  palm-leaf  fan  was  placed 
on  the  table  before  each  guest,  and  on  these 
the  plates  rested.  The  individual  decora- 
tions on  each  plate  cost  $30,  while  the 
favors  cost  as  much  more,  and  the  menus 
$10  each.  Roman  punch  was  served  in 
oranges  hanging  on  the  natural  trees,  the 
pulp  of  the  fruit  having  been  deftly  re- 
moved so  that  the  favored  guests  could 
pick  their  own  fruit.  The  dinner  cost  $175 
per  cover.  The  wine  and  music  were 
extra." 

FISH    DINNERS    IN    PARIS. 

"The  Paris  'fish  dinners'  for  Wednes- 
days and  Fridays  are  especially  studied  by 
hostesses  to  impress  their  visitors  with  the 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


141 


cleverness  of  their  cook,  who  can  serve  up 
a  most  varied  banquet  without  hurting  the 
most  tender  devotee's  conscience  by  heret- 
ical meats.  There  is  even  a  churchly  touch 
in  the  menu,  which  represents  a  tiny  illu- 
minated missal.  Flowers  are  banished 
from  the  table,  but  foliage  of  all  kinds  and 
tints  is  equally  pretty  and  more  novel  for 
decoration.  At  dessert  the  fruits  are  no 
longer  put  on  dishes,  but  served  up  as  if 
hanging  on  their  own  trees,  grapes,  apples, 
and  oranges  being  deftly  fastened  on  small 
shrubs,  and  the  pots  being  hidden  by  gold- 
embroidered  plush  coverings." 

FRENCH   DINNER   TABLE    DECORATIONS. 

"From  information  supplied  by  a  Parisian 
caterer  it  appears  that  there  are  at  present 
four  fashionable  styles  of  dinner-table  de- 
corations in  vogue  in  the  Gay  City.  These 
are  known  respectively  as  the  '  Diner  Par- 
terre,' the  « Diner ForetVierge,'  the  'Diner 
Virtuine,'  and  the  'Diner  Reposoir.'  In 
the  first  the  table  is  ornamented  with  little 
flat  silver  saucers  filled  with  green  moss,  in 
the  centre  of  which  is  a  glass  tulip-lamp. 
In  the  second  the  decorations  consist  of 
numerous  old  Dresden  china  statuettes  and 
similar  articles  de  vertu  in  porcelain: 
Cupids,  Venuses,  Watteau  lords  and  ladies, 
set  here  and  there  singly  or  in  groups  or 
half  hidden  in  clusters  of  flowers.  The 
object  of  the  Diner  Reposoir  is  to  remind 
one  of  the  simple  decoration  of  the  village 
church  on  the  occasion  of  the  great  Catho- 
lic festival  of  the  Fete-Dieu.  A  garland, 
thick  in  foliage  and  composed  of  roses, 
violets  and  ivy,  goes  round  the  table.  In 
the  centre  a  large  basket  containing  the 
same  flowers  is  placed.  In  the  Diner 
Foret  Vierge  the  decoration  consists  of  a 
number  of  silver  baskets  fashioned  in  the 
shape  of  the  bales  or  hampers  in  which 
coffee  is  shipped  from  the  plantations. 
These  baskets  are  filled  with  bunches  of 
orchids  tied  together  with  knots  of  bril- 
liantly colored  and  variegated  ribbons." 

IMITATING    LUCULLUS. 

"The  fashionable  dinner  parties  in  Paris 
have  taken  up  a  new  craze — to  have  all 


their  principal  viands  brought  from  great 
distances.  These  chic  dinners  have  sterlets 
brought  from  the  distant  Volga,  haunch 
of  reindeer  from  Lapland,  a  bear  ham 
from  the  frozen  regions  of  North  Russia, 
and  other  novelties  from  other  inhospitable 
and  uncomeatable  places." 

ROYAL   SOUP. 

"Emperor  William  recently  expressed 
to  Grand  Duke  Vladimir,  of  Russia,  his 
regret  at  not  being  able  to  get  a  taste  once 
more  of  a  certain  Russian  soup,  called 
ucba,  of  which  he  had  been  excessively 
fond  on  his  former  visits  to  St.  Petersburg, 
and  the  proper  recipe  for  which  seemed  to 
be  a  secret,  even  to  his  chief  cook.  He 
was  pleasantly  surprised  shortly  afterward 
at  having  this  favorite  dish  served  to  him 
in  a  masterly  manner.  Grand  Duke  Vla- 
dimir had  quietly  sent  his  cook  to  Berlin 
with  two  enormous  live  sturgeons,  taken 
fresh  from  the  Volga,  this  fish  forming 
the  essential  ingredients  of  the  ucha.  The 
difficulty  attending  this  little  attention  may 
readily  be  appreciated  from  the  fact  that 
the  sturgeon  had  to  be  transported  from 
the  frontier  of  Asia,  and  that  this  fish,  like 
trout,  has  to  be  kept  constantly  supplied 
with  fresh  water  during  the  transit  in  order 
to  keep  it  alive." 

THE    SAME    IDEA    WITH    A  PURPOSE    IN    IT. 

"The  bill  of  fare  at  the  banquet  which 
was  given  at  Madrid  last  week  in  honor  of 
the  anniversary  of  the  discovery  of  Amer- 
ica was  an  international  curiosity  in  its 
way.  By  way  of  doing  'homage  to  Co- 
lumbus' the  guests  who  sat  down  to  dine 
at  the  Theatre  Royal  on  the  I2th  inst. 
were  supplied  with  the  following  menu: 
Soup — Isabel,  the  Catholic  and  American 
soup;  fish  from  the  port  of  Palos,  from 
which  Columbus  set  sail  on  his  first  voy- 
age to  America,  loin  a  1'Amiral,  Castilian 
partridge,  Andes  pheasants,  Jamaica  punch, 
roasted  Brazilian  peacock,  Estremadura 
beans,  Havana  sweetbread,  New  York  ices, 
Granada  fruit,  and  Puerto  Rico  coffee." 


142 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


FLORAL  DECORATIONS  AT  PRESIDENT 
ARTHUR'S  STATE  DINNERS. 

"  The  Marine  Band  was  stationed  at  the 
large  entrance  hall  and  played  during  the 
evening,  and  the  apartments  on  the  lower 
floor  were  thrown  open  and  decorated.  In 
the  East  Room  the  mantels  were  banked 
with  plants  and  mosses,  and  fan  and  date 
palms  and  tropical  plants  were  grouped  in 
angles  and  window  embrasures.  Chains 
of  smilax  on  the  chandeliers  and  mirror 
frames  enhanced  the  beauty  of  the  apart- 
ment. The  red,  blue  and  green  parlors 
were  similarly  decorated  with  palms  and 
plants,  and  at  the  end  of  the  corridor  the 
silver  Hiawatha  boat,  filled  with  roses,  was 
on  an  antique  marble  table. 

"The  guests  arrived  before  8  o'clock  and 
were  first  conducted  to  the  dressing  rooms 
on  the  upper  floors.  When  all  had  as- 
sembled in  the  East  Parlor  the  President 
was  summoned,  and,  descending  with  Mrs. 
McElroy,  greated  his  guests  and  led  the 
way  to  the  state  dining-room  with  Mrs. 
Freilinghuysen  as  the  first  guest  of  honor. 
The  state  dining-room  was  appropriately 
decorated  with  palms,  blooming  azalias, 
and  other  plants,  and  the  table  was  orna- 
mented with  a  large  set-piece  in  flowers, 
intended  as  a  fanciful  representation  of  the 
hanging  gardens  of  Babylon.  The  raised 
garden  overhung  the  long  central  mirror 
which,  as  a  lake  with  coral  grottoes  and 
mossy  shores,  bore  a  fleet  of  tiny  boats 
loaded  with  roses.  The  garden,  in  canopy 
shape,  rose  three  feet  or  more  from  the 
table  and  was  nearly  six  feet  in  length. 
It  was  composed  of  red  and  white  carna- 
tions, with  banks  of  Marshal  Niel  and  bon 
silene  roses,  set  with  orchids.  At  the  ends 
of  the  mirror  lake  were  tall  gilt  candelabra, 
bearing  shaded  wax  lights,  and  beyond 
them  large  crystal  bowls,  overrunning 
with  long-stemmed  roses.  Circular  plaques 
of  roses,  carnations  and  lillies  of  the  valley 
flanked  by  silver  candelabra,  were  at  the 
extreme  ends  of  the  table. 

"The  board  was  laid  for  thirty-six  covers. 
Six  wine  glasses,  a  water  carafe  and  goblet 
were  at  each  place,  together  with  the  menu 


cards  and  boutonnieres  for  the  gentlemen, 
and  large  corsage  bouquets  of  roses  or 
lillies  of  the  valley  for  the  ladies.  Sixteen 
courses  were  served." 

PRESIDENT    CLEVELAND'S    TABLE.  —  RE- 
VOLVING GLOBE.     BASS   IN  JELLY. 

"The  centre  of  attraction  in  the  dining 
room  was  the  long  white  damasked  table, 
about  which  the  thirty-eight  guests  of  the 
evening  sat  with  the  President  and  Miss 
Cleveland.  The  gilded  central  plateau, 
which  ran  almost  its  entire  length,  had  its 
upright  edges  twined  with  smilax,  and  its 
central  ornament  was  an  immense  floral 
globe  fully  ten  feet  in  circumference.  It 
revolved  under  a  square  support  and  up- 
right frame,  and  was  set  so  high  that  it  did 
not  obstruct  the  view  across  the  table. 
The  land  surface  was  marked  by  solid 
clusters  of  carnations  in  red,  white,  pink, 
and  scarlet.  The  oceans  were  represented 
by  the  lapped  leaves  of  shining  camellias, 
and  the  bays,  rivers,  and  small  streams 
were  marked  by  tiny  strands  of  smilax. 
The  square-framed  support  was  garlanded 
in  smilax,  and  above  it  was  a  single  star  in 
red  immortelles.  The  globe  almost  rested 
on  a  field  of  bon  silene  roses,  set  in  a  mass 
of  smilax.  Two  ships  rode  at  anchor  on 
the  mirrored  surface  of  the  plateau,  their 
hulls  made  of  pink  and  white  carnations. 
The  bow  was  filled  with  Catharine  Mermet 
roses,  and  the  stern  freighted  with  Parma 
violets.  The  rigging  was  twined  with 
smilax.  Two  overflowing  gilded  vases  of 
Marechal  Niel  and  bon  silene  roses  marked 
the  extreme  ends  of  the  table,  and  flat  bou- 
quets the  added  corners  that  accommo- 
dated four  extra  guests.  A  sea  bass  envel- 
oped in  jelly  rode  proudly  in  a  chariot 
drawn  by  sea  nymphs,  and  round  fanci- 
fully arranged  moulds  of  /a7e  defoie  gras 
were  the  French  chefs  contributions  to  the 
beauty  of  the  table." 

FLORAL    DECORATIONS    AT    THE    PRINCESS* 
BALL. 

"The  ball  to  the  Princess  Louise  and 
the  Marquis  of  L/orne  at  the  Windsor  Ho- 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


143 


tel  in  Montreal,  b  ought  out  the  elite,  and, 
as  it  was  the  farewell  to  the  Queen's 
daughter,  more  than  ordinary  attention 
was  paid  to  it.  Decorations  in  the  floral 
way  from  Boston,  the  rarest  flowers  from 
hot-houses,  and  all  that  decorative  artists 
from  New  York  could  devise  was  done  to 
make  the  ball  room  attractive.  The  ball 
room  was  magnificent,  and,  in  fact,  the 
Windsor  Hotel  never  looked  so  gay.  The 
scarlet  and  black  of  the  infantry  and  blue 
and  gold  of  the  cavalry  and  the  stately 
dress  black,  with  the  hundred  and  one 
shades  of  silk  and  satins  worn  by  the  ladies, 
together  with  the  flashing  of  diamonds, 
gave  the  grand  promenade  a  bewildering 
appearance.  Soon  after  the  dancers  had 
entered  the  room,  Princess  Louise  entered 
upon  the  arm  of  the  Marquis,  and  they 
took  places  upon  a  dais.  The  Princess 
wore  a  white  brocade  cape  overdress 
trimmed  with  crimson  velvet  flowers,  a 
rich  diamond  necklace  and  head-dress  of 
diamonds,  simplicity  itself.  She  looked 
very  beautiful.  The  noticeable  feature  of 
the  ladies'  toilet  was  the  absence  of  low 
neck  and  few  floral  head-dresses,  and  dia- 
monds were  generally  worn  in  their  place. 
There  were  many  celebrities  present." 

TENS    OF   THOUSANDS    OF    FLOWERS. 

A  Boston  florist,  who  was  engaged  to 
furnish  part  of  the  floral  decorations  for 
the  Princess  Louise  ball  at  the  Windsor 
Hotel  in  Montreal,  had  them  transported 
in  a  special  car.  There  were :  20,000  roses, 
20,000  carnations  of  different  colors, 
1,000  .spikes  of  tube  roses,  500  bunches  of 
violets,  1,000  sprays  of  heliotrope,  2,000 
strings  of  smilax,  and  2,000  yards  of  En- 
glish laurel. 

DECORATED    DISHES   AT    MRS.    VANDER- 
BILT'S    RECEPTION. 

"  One  piece  was  a  game  pie  of  pheasants, 
the  pie  resting  on  a  flat  surface  of  wax,  the 
entire  piece  upheld  with  deer's  antlers. 
The  sides  of  the  pie  were  trimmed  with 
quails.  Underneath  were  two  rabbits  play- 
ing cards,  while  to  the  side  of -the  players 


was  a  bridge,  under  which  gleamed  a  lake 
of  water  with  goldfish  swimming  about. 

"Another  was  a  fruit  dish  in  wax,  in 
which  were  placed  imitation  eggs  and 
potted  reed  birds. 

"Another  piece  was  a  fillet  of  beef,  with 
a  garniture  of  vegetables  of  all  kinds  rest- 
ing on  the  shoulders  of  a  Hercules;  on 
either  side  were  placed  some  cupids,  the 
figures  being  of  wax  and  very  cleverly 
executed. 

"  One  of  the  most  artistic  pieces  was  a 
two-foot  salmon,  resting  in  a  wax  boat, 
while  on  the  back  of  the  fish  sat  a  cupid ;  the 
boat  was  supported  by  a  Neptune  at  each 
end,  seated  in  sea  shells  and  driving  sea 
horses  before  them  in  a  lake  of  real  water 
in  which  fish  were  swimming  around. 

"A  fine  piece  was  a  flying  Mercury  poised 
upon  a  ham,  the  ham  being  finely  orna- 
mented with  a  delicate  tracing  of  truffles. 

"About  midnight  the  following  artistic 
supper  was  served : " 

MENU  DU  SOUPER. 

Consomm6  en  tasse  Huttres  a  la  poujette 

Croquettes  de  volatile     Bouche'es  a  la  reine 
Terrapin  a  la  Maryland  Canvas-back  duck 

Galatine  de  chapon 

Filet  de  boeuf,  jardiniere 

Aspic  de  foie-gras,  belle  yue 

Chaudfroid  de  mauviettes   Pate  de  gibier,  chasseur 

Pate  de  Strasbourg,  naturel 

Saumon  a  la  Vatel      Jambon  a  la  gelee 

Salade  de  poulet  Salade  de  homard 

Voliere  de  cailles      Sandwiches  varies 

Charlotte  moderne 
Gel6e  macedoine  aux  fruits        Glacis  assorties 

MRS.  VANDERBILT'S  DIAMOND  BALL. 

The  grandest  and  probably  most  expen- 
sive ball  which  ever  took  place  in  New 
York  was  given  by  Mrs.  Vanderbilt  about 
three  or  four  years  previous  to  the  recep- 
tion alluded  to  above.  It  was  described  as 
"an  Eden  of  tropical  exotics— musical  strains 
from  a  rose-embowered  arbor — flashing 
diamonds  on  a  sea  of  silken  waves — a  sup- 
per fit  for  the  gods,  fringed  by  a  cataract 
of  wine."  The  menu  makes  but  a  small 
figure  in  print  for  an  occasion  that  was 
reported  to  have  cost  $30,000.  But  this 
is  it: 

The  menu  was  engraved  in  delicate 
script  and  printed  on  a  heavy  bevelled 
bristol  card,  with  gilded  edges,  three  and 


144 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


a  half  inches  wide  by  five  inches  in  depth. 
In  the  centre,  near  the  top,  was  the  Vander- 
bilt  coat  of  arms  in  raised  gold. 

CHAUD. 

Bouillon. 

Hultres  frites.  Croquettes  de  volailles. 

Terrapine  a  la  Maryland. 

FROID. 

Saumon  a  la  Rothschild. 
Galantine  de  volaille  aux  truffes. 

Filets  de  boeuf  a  la  gelee. 
Jambon  a  la  gel6e.  Poulet  a  la  gel^e. 

Chaudfroid  de  mauviettes. 
Aspic  de  foie  gras  en  bellevue. 

Salade  de  volaille  au  celeri. 

Mayonnaise  de  homard  laitues. 

Sandwiches  a  la  Windsor.          Pain  de  Rilette. 

Baba  au  rum. 

GLACES. 

Napolitaine.  Biscuit  glace1. 

Merveilleuse.        Diable  rose. 

Vanille. 

[Translation  of  the  above  menu.'] 

HOT. 
Bouillon. 

Fried  oysters.  Chicken  croquettes. 

Terrapin,  Maryland  style. 

COLD. 
Salmon  a  la  Rothschild. 

Boned  fowl,  truffled. 

Fillet  of  beef  in  jelly. 

Ham  in  jelly.  Chicken  in  jelly. 

Chaudfroid  of  reed  birds. 
Aspic  of  foie  gras  en  bellevue. 

Chicken  salad  au  celery. 

Mayonnaise  of  lobster  and  lettuce. 

Sandwiches  a  ia  Windsor.  Rilette  bread. 

Baba  au  rum. 
Five  varities  of  ices. 

THE    PROGRESSIVE   DINNER    NOVELTY. 

"The  progressive  dinner  has  leaped  at  one 
bound  into  popular  favor.  This  new  freak 
of  New  York  festivities  imposes  on  each 
geust  of  the  masculine  persuasion  the  duty 
of  moving  at  the  end  of  each  course  one 
seat  to  the  left  until  he  has  completed  the 
circuit  of  the  dinner  table,  tarrying  for  a 
brief  period  at  the  side  of  each  lady  of  the 
party.  When  he  has  safely  completed  the 
hazardous  voyage  and  has  steered  once 
more  into  the  haven  of  refuge  provided  by 
his  first  love,  there  he  may  rest  till  the 
chairs  are  pushed  back  and  a  final  adjourn- 
ment taken.  A  much  moie  careful  choos- 
mg  of  guests  to  harmonize  each  with  all  is 
sure  to  be  the  result  of  this  last  of  fashion's 
mandates,  so  a  woman  who  has  obeyed  it 
tells  me,  if  the  notion  of  the  week  is  to  en- 
dure even  for  a  fortnight,  for  a  single  dis- 
cordant note  mars  the  effect  of  all.  Any 


sandwiching  in  of  dull  folk  or  prosy  folk 
is  sure  to  be  revealed  in  this  puss  in  the 
corner  game." 

THIS   LADY    HAD   A   NEW    IDEA. 

"  Recently  Sefiora  Romero,  the  wife  of 
the  Mexican  Minister  at  Washington,  gave 
a  special  afternoon  reception,  at  which 
Mexican  chocolate  was  made  by  a  Mexican 
girl  before  the  company.  The  girl,  who 
was  unable  to  speak  a  word  of  English,  is 
a  member  of  the  company  of  Mexicans 
now  here  who  have  recently  established 
the  unique  show,  the  Mexican  village.  On 
a  square  table  in  front  of  the  girl  was  a 
native  charcoal  stove  of  red  earthenware 
in  the  shape  of  a  gentleman's  hat,  and 
called  by  the  Mexicans  'brasero.'  A  half 
moon  cut  in  what  would  be  the  top  of  the 
hat  furnishes  the  necessary  place  for  a 
draught  to  keep  the  coal  above  near  the 
brim  warm  and  glowing.  The  chocalate, 
which  is  in  large  cakes,  is  then  finely 
broken  into  an  earthen  jar,  on  one  side  of 
which  is  a  handle.  Into  this  jar  is  then 
put  cream,  sugar,  and  the  white  of  egg  and 
cinnamon,  which  are  mixed  by  a  small 
instrument  resembling  a  churn-stick,  which 
the  girl  moves  rapidly  between  her  hands 
by  rubbing  them  together.  The  compound, 
which  in  appearance  resembles  the  choco- 
late ordinarily  prepared,  is  thoroughly 
heated  through  by  being  placed  on  the 
glowing  coals  in  the  earthen  jar  in  which 
it  is  made.  From  this  it  was  transferred 
to  the  silver  urn  on  the  dainty  spread  table, 
and  served  by  the  young  ladies  presiding." 

CotlLD'NT   "CALL   OFF"    THE    ENTREES. 

"  The  Greek  consul  in  Boston  is  an  hon- 
ored and  esteemed  member  of  the  New 
England  Club,  who  sit  down  to  a  pleasant 
little  family  gathering  at  Young's  every 
Saturday  afternoon.  Yesterday  happened 
to  be  his  birthday,  and  the  president  has 
been  engaged  in  devising  a  little  surprise, 
not  only  for  the  genial  consul,  but  for  the 
whole  club.  It  had  been  announced  that 
'Greece'  was  to  be  the  subject  of  the 
!  weekly  discussion,  but  when  the  members 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


145 


arrived  at  Young's  yesterday  afternoon, 
and,  after  exchanging  greetings,  sat  down 
around  a  well  laden  board  and  took  up  the 
menu  cards,  their  faces  at  once  assumed  a 
puzzled  look,  which  gradually  gave  place 
to  expressions  of  utter  despair  or  broad 
gleams  of  fun.  Then  the  waiters  appeared, 
gazed  at  the  bills  helplessly  and  hopelessly, 
and  retired  for  consultation.  The  entire 
bill  of  fare  was  printed  in  Greek.  There 
were  long  words  and  short  words,  and 
whole  strings  of  hieroglyphics,  which  am- 
bitious members  vainly  sought  to  translate 
into  the  nomenclature  of  the  modern  cui- 
sine. At  last  one  member  cut  the  Gordian 
knot  by  summoning  a  chuckling  waiter 
and  boldly  ordering  'some  of  No.  i.' 
Others  followed  suit,  and  so  the  whole  list 
of  goodies  was  disposed  of  amid  much 
hilarity  and  many  earnest  discussions  as  to 
whether  'No.  6'  was  ever  better,  or  whether 
any  member  in  his  whole  experience  ever 
remembered  a  time  when  'No.  3'  or  'No.  7' 
tasted  so  good  to  him  as  on  that  particular 
occasion.  Ex-president  Folsom,  not  fully 
satisfied  by  the  course  arbitrarily  prescribed 
by  the  bill  of  fare,  varied  the  monotony  by 
demanding  'Socrates  hash,'  and  was  loudly 
seconded  by  another  member  who  wanted 
'Acropolis  beans,'  and  yet  a  third  who  de- 
clared for  '  ham  and  eggs  £  la  Diogenes.'  " 

THE    SAME    THING    ELSEWHERE. 

"  One  of  the  most  curious  menus  ever 
issued  to  guests  was  that  arranged  by  the 
members  of  the  British  Medical  Associa- 
tion and  served  at  the  Ship  Hotel,  Green- 
wich." 

The  entire  bill  of  fare  was  printed  in  the 
newspaper — it  was  a  large  one,  containing 
many  courses,  and  every  word  and  head- 
ing was  printed  in  Latin. 

NOTIONS    IN    SILVER. 

"Among  accepted  novelties  in  dinner 
giving  in  Paris  must  be  mentioned  the 
now  general  fashion  of  much  silver  bric-a- 
brac  upon  the  tables.  To  each  guest  a  tiny 
silver  salt  cellar,  of  a  different  shape  to 
each  cover.  This  in  the  shape  of  a  mar- 


mite,  this  of  a  saucepan,  that  of  a  shell. 
Also  at  small  familiar  dinners  to  each 
uest  a  little  butler  dish,  also  of  silver,  in  a 
fanciful  shape  and  a  tiny  knife  thereto — an 
excellent  addition  to  a  table  when  oysters 
are  served,  and  pretty  withal,  also  appetiz- 
ing with  the  ice-spangled  pat  of  yellow 
butter  in  the  silver  shell.  Still  at  the 
'diner  intime,'  in  front  of  the  host  the 
mustard  pot,  the  pepper  mill.  Yonder  a 
silver  pickle  jar.  The  table  should  re- 
semble a  children's  feast.  Lilliputian 
trifles  everywhere.  Candles  are  much 
used  now,  with  tinted  shades,  in  silver 
candlesticks." 

THE    VIENNA   COFFEE    FASHION. 

"  The  latest  agony  in  silver  table  decora- 
tion is  a  very  large  platter  with  a  swan  at 
one  end.  On  this  coffee  cups  are  placed, 
with  a  cream  jug  and  sugar  bowl.  The 
latter  should  be  of  Saxon  manufacture  to 
be  entirely  correct.  The  huge  swan,  with 
its  outstretched  wings  and  curved  neck,  is 
in  reality  a  coffee  pot,  which  the  hostess 
can  swing  on  and  off  the  platter  to  serve 
the  fragrant  beverage,  lifting  each  time  the 
delicate  throat  of  the  bird.  It  is  an  old 
Louis  XV.  model  rejuvenated  and  a  trifle 
modernized." 

DIFFERENT    CHINA    FOR    EACH   COURSE. 

"  A  few  years  ago  the  dinner  set  signi- 
fied every  piece  used  upon  the  table  from 
the  soup  set  to  the  after  dinner  coffees, 
but  fashion  has  changed  all  this  and  the 
different  courses  are  much  more  effective 
served  with  dishes  contrasting  in  color  and 
ornamentation.  Very  little  extra  expense 
is  involved  in  this  change,  as  some  of  the 
china  or  porcelain  fish  sets,  soup,  game  or 
oyster  sets,  with  neat  dessert  and  fruit  sets 
of  the  most  artistic  shape  and  decoration, 
can  be  had  at  a  very  small  price  compared 
with  that  of  a  complete  set  a  few  years 
ago.  Oyster  sets  are  really  not  essential, 
yet  it  is  very  nice  to  have  them.  The 
half  dozen  oysters  may  be  served  upon 
any  dinner  plate  with  a  bit  of  lemon  in  the 
center  and  should  be  upon  the  table  when 


146 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


dinner  is  announced.  A  handsome  soup 
set  adds  much  to  the  table,  but  fish  may 
be  served  upon  any  dining  plate  that  can 
be  heated.  A  fish  set  showing  designs  of 
salmon  or  trout  strung  upon  hooks  or  in 
the  meshes  of  a  net  or  from  a  forked  stick 
is  certainly  not  a  very  appetizing  sight. 
The  potato  dish  should  be  in  harmony 
with  the  fish  service,  whether  it  be  plain 
or  decorative.  Glass  dishes  may  be  used 
for  olives,  pickles  or  cucumber  salad, 
which  is  very  nice  served  with  fish.  These 
may  remain  on  the  table  during  the  entire 
dinner. 

«'  Meats  should  not  be  served  on  plates 
fancifully  painted,  a  border  only  being  in 
better  effect.  Dinner  plates,  meat  platter 
and  vegetable  dishes  should  be  alike,  and 
although  the  coffee  cups  must  be  the  same 
size  or  shape,  they  may  exhibit  different 
colors  and  ornamentations.  Haviland 
porcelain  is  among  the  elegant  table  ware, 
and  its  value  is  according  to  the  decora- 
tions, which  are  from  the  finest  landscape 
painting  to  the  quaintest  genre.  Minton 
china  shows  a  white  ground  with  floria- 
tions  veined  and  edged  with  gold.  The 
Danish  porcelain,  which  is  especially 
adapted  to  dessert  sets,  shows  the  edges 
open.  The  low,  wide  amber  glass  finger 
bowls  are  fashionable  and  pretty,  and 
those  in  other  styles  and  the  elegant  cut 
glass  bowls  are  often  selected  by  the 
wealthy." 

CANDLES   AND   GLASS   SHADES. 

"The  candle  on  the  dinner  table  holds 
its  place  still.  The  latest  device  that  the 
art  ware  establishments  have  contrived  for 
its  adorning  is  a  sliding  scale  that  falls  im- 
perceptibly as  the  candle  burns  lower.  The 
shade  is  made  in  the  simple  Bohemian 
glasses,  in  decorated  art  glass  of  every  de- 
scription, arid  is  sometimes  seen  in  rare 
jewelled  glass  in  every  rich,  soft  hue.  The 
shaded  candle  sheds  over  table  furnishings, 
flowers  and  faces  of  the  guests  the  very 
perfection  of  light  that  the  dinner  givers 
have  looked  for  these  many  years  in  vain." 


NOTIONS    IN    ICES. 

"At  a  Cinderella  ball  the  ices,  of  the 
biscuit  glace,  form  in  paper  cases,  each  con- 
tained a  gift,  either  a  small  coin,  a  tiny 
thimble,  a  ring,  or  some  of  the  pretty  toy- 
like  patterns  in  silver  broches  and  watch 
charms,  cornelian  hearts,  sparkling  flowers 
in  jewelry,  all  of  the  smallest  description. 
The  gifts  were  wrapped  in  transparent  cara- 
mel paper  and  pushed  down  at  one  side  of 
the  ice,  and  the  outside  of  each  case  bore  a 
motto.  Handsome  flower-bordered  cards, 
with  written  quotations  from  the  poets, 
were  attached  to  the  spoons,  which  with 
the  plates  were  selected  by  the  young  ladies 
and  young  gentlemen  for  each  other  in 
turn." 

CHANGING  DECORATIONS  FOR  EACH  MEAL. 

One  of  the  British  princes  was  recently 
entertained  at  the  country  seat  of  a  noble- 
man at  a  "hunt  breakfast"  and  dinner, 
and  the  decorations  and  table  ware  were 
changed  for  each  as  follows : 

HUNT  BREAKFAST  MENU. 

Broiled  Kidneys.        Pulled  Fowl. 

Salmon  Steaks.  Scuffed  Tomatoes. 

Sheeps  Tongues.  Potted  Pigeons. 

Broiled  Rump  Steaks.        Qunelles. 

Croquettes  of  Rice  and  Ham. 

Chickens  in  Bechamel. 

Potted  Game.  Pate  M6K. 

Cold  Sirloin  of  Beef.         Pressed  Tongues. 

York  Hams.        Raised  Pies  (various). 
Normandy  Pippins.  Stewed  Prunes. 

Clotted  Cream. 

Roast  Snipes.     Woodcocks.     Trushes. 

Apple  Marmalade.     Apricot  Jam.      Currant  Jelly. 

Vanilla  Milk.          Caf^  au  Lait.  Tea. 

liqueurs. 

"The  tables  on  this  occasion  were  dressed 
with  white  cloths  and  decorated  a  lajardi- 
ni&re.  The  silver  antique  jardinieres  were 
filled  with  ferns  and  spring  flowers,  peep- 
ing out  of  mosses  of  various  kinds.  Large 
silver  bowls  and  epergnes  on  the  side-board 
and  side  tables  were  filled  with  exquisite 
arrangements  of  hyacinths,  tulips,  wood 
violets,  snowdrops,  etc.,  in  mosaic  patterns; 
whilst  hanging  baskets  graced  the  win- 
dows, filled  with  the  spiritulle  cyclamen 
light  foliage,  interspersed  with  yellow  and 
red  flowers,  that  gave  the  grand  old  oak 
hall  a  splendid  appearance.  The  display 
of  antique  plate  would  have  delighted  the 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


147 


heart  of  the  most  enthusiastic  antiquary, 
and  the  tout  ensemble  seemed  to  give  the 
young  prince  much  pleasure. 

"  The  vanilla  milk,  which,  by  the  way, 
was  half  cream,  found  great  favor,  and  was 
served  steaming  hot  in  silver  cups.  Some 
added  curacoa  to  it,  others  a.fetit  verre  de 
Cognac,  but  the  majority  preferred  the 
sweet  beverage  simply  as  prepared  in  the 
kitchen  by  my  worthy  old  friend,  the  chef, 
who  is  too  modest  to  allow  me  to  give  his 
name." 

The  dinner  menu  was  as  follows: 


SOUPS. 
Vermicelli.         Mulligatawney. 

Salmon,  Fennel  Sauce. 

Boiled  Cod,  Oyster  Sauce. 

Poulet  £  ia  Albert  Victor,  Mushroom  Sauce. 

Pigeons  a  la  Zetland,  Madeira  Sauce. 

Veal  a  la  Piedmontese. 

Blanquet  de  Mouton. 

Roast  Sirloin,  Horss-radrsh  Sauce. 

Turkev,  Sauce  Athenian. 
Asparagus  en  Croustade.  Artichoke  Fritters. 

Bondon  Cheese  a  la  Diable. 

Apricot  Pudding.     Devonshire  Clotted  Cream. 

Bread  and  Butter  Pudding,  Wine  Sauce. 

Salad.  Dessert. 

"The  room  was  decorated  with  palms, 
choice  tropical  plants,  and  exqusite  exotic 
flowers,  forming'  a  complete  change  to  the 
morning  decorations.  The  band  played 
In  an  ante-room  adjacent,  which  was  cur- 
tained off,  and  also  profusely  decorated 
with  mirrors  and  floral  beauties.  The  din- 
ner service  ivas  of  very  handsome  old  china, 
the  floral  decorations  on  the  table  were 
laid  in  the  Oriental  style  now  so  fashion- 
able." 

A   BOATING   CLUB'S   FANTASY 

"The  table  was  decorated  with  glass  ware 
In  the  shape  of  small  boats  mounted  on 
plateaux  of  looking-glass,  surrounded  by 
sage-green  plush  borders,  fringed  by  silk 
blond  lace  of  a  lighter  shade.  The  boats 
rested  on  four  glass  oars,  crossed  at  either 
side,  and  forming  a  stand.  Light  trailing 
foliage  depended  from  the  boats,  and  trailed 
on  the  glass  plateaux.  Spring  flowers 
from  the  sunny  South  filled  the  boats  and 
nestled  amidst  ferns  and  mosses  arranged 
round  the  gunwales.  At  the  prows  of  the 
larger-sized  bateaux  were  little  flags  and 


ensigns.  Small  glass  boats  were  laid  at 
each  cover,  filled  with  dark-blue  violets 
and  French  or  Italian  grown  forget-me- 
nots  in  alternate  boats.  The  violets  for 
the  gentlemen,  the  light-blue  flowers  for 
the  fair  visitors.  The  menus  were  printed 
on  cards  representing  a  yacht's  sail,  silver- 
edged  and  supported  at  the  back  by  an 
oar,  which  fixed  the  card  easel-fashion. 
The  napery  was  folded  a  la  bateaux,  and 
the  gunwales  formed  of  violets,  snowdrops, 
and  primroses,  intertwined  with  light  foli- 
age and  mounted  on  wire,  so  that  they 
were  readily  removed  by  the  guests  and 
kept  in  form  without  the  untidy  litter  often 
caused  by  the  insertion  of  loose  sprays  in 
the  serviettes.  In  the  centre  of  the  table 
was  an  epergne  filled  with  fruit  and 
flowers.  In  the  middle  of  the  large  glass 
dish,  on  the  top,  was  an  Undine  boat,  filled 
with  flowers,  and  an  exquisite  wax  model 
of  Undine,  the  water  spirit,  in  their  midst. 
The  boat  was  surrounded  by  fruits  and 
flowers  of  the  most  expensive  class,  inter- 
mixed with  young  palm-leaves  and  natural 
grasses.  At  the  foot,  beside  the  claws  (re- 
presenting four  lions  cotichant),  were  groups 
of  little  sailor  dolls,  representing  the  crews 
and  their  friends,  no  doubt,  some  with 
small  polished  oars,  others  with  flags,  and 
a  couple  with  flagons  in  their  hands.  The 
tout  ensemble  was  very  pretty." 

SCENE    PAINTED   BALL    SUPPERS. 

"  The  buffet  was  shaped  in  the  conven- 
ient horse-shoe  style,  and  dressed  with  the 
usual  holly,  mistletoe,  bay,  laurel,  and 
rosemary ;  also  a  goodly  show  of  chrysan- 
themums and  hot-house  flowers — the  latter 
arranged  in  baskets.  A  plentiful  supply 
of  French-grown  feathermoss,  sent  in 
boxes,  was  a  wonderful  help  to  the  buffet 
dressing.  One  feature  of  the  decorations 
must  not  be  forgotten,  and  it  is  a  point  that 
caterers  would  do  well  to  insist  on  being 
adopted,  as  it  is  good  for  trade  and  a  real 
boon  to  the  guests.  I  refer  to  the  coterie 
nooks  in  the  ball-rooms,  ante-rooms,  and 
conservatories.  In  this  case  they  were 
replicas  of  a  moonlight  scene.  The  land* 


148 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


scape  painted  in  distemper  on  canvas  at 
the  back.  The  moon,  full  or  crescent,  let 
into  the  canvas  and  made  of  oiled  paper, 
and  a  lamp  hung  behind ;  a  bed  of  moss 
reached  slantwise  from  the  scene  to  the 
ground;  chairs  and  'sociables'  were  placed 
amongst  palms,  shrubs,  etc.  Fairy  rings 
were  made  of  mushrooms  (edible  ones,  too, 
for  they  were  formed  of  sugar- work);  in 
the  moss,  and  at  a  square  coterie  tabJe, 
stood  a  neat-handed  Phyllis,  with  pins, 
needles  and  threads,  perfumes,  and  a  light 
array  of  light  refreshments — ices,  sherry, 
champagne  syphon,  and  aerated  waters; 
also  plain  iced  water,  eau  sucre,  and  fruits. 
It  saves  partners  leaving  to  rush  to  the 
salle-b-manger  in  search  of  ices,  wines,  etc., 
for  their  lady  friends,  and  if  slight  acci- 
dents occur  to  the  pretty,  fairy-like  or  gor- 
geous toilets  of  the  fair  dancers,  they  are 
soon  repaired  without  the  inevitable  with- 
drawal to  the  cloak-room.  Fairy  lamps, 
in  wreaths,  and  peeping  out  from  the  foli- 
age, completed  most  harmonious  scenes." 

SEA  CAVERNS   AND  FAIRY   GROTTOS. 

"At  Lord  X's,  one  of  the  wealthiest 
peers  of  the  realm,  great  preparations  are 
being  made  for  the  coming  of  age  of  the 
heir.  He  was  a  veritable  Christmas  box 
to  his  family,  being  born  on  boxing-day, 
and  the  festivities  are  to  be  of  quite  an  elab- 
orate character.  There  are  to  be  two  sup- 
per rooms — one  Oriental  and  the  other  a 
representation  of  ocean  caves.  The  latter 
is  a  wooden  building  thrown  out  from  the 
piazza,  leading  from  the  dining-room  win- 
dows, and  taking  the  whole  area  of  the 
three  windows  and  the  lawn.  This  hint 
as  to  mode  of  decoration  may  be  useful 
both  to  restaurateurs  and  caterers.  The 
caves  are  formed  of  cork,  whitewashed, 
and  then  brushed  over  with  a  solution  of 
Epsom  salts  and  permitted  to  dry;  this 
forms  crystals,  and  is  mixed  with  other 
pieces  of  cork  finished  by  being  dusted 
whilst  wet  with  ground  glass.  Glass  dust 
is  procurable  at  a  very  cheap  rate  from  the 
glass  works.  These  pieces  of  cork,  when 
finished,  are  to  be  nailed  to  the  roof  and 


sides  of  the  room,  and  pots  of  grass  inter- 
spersed amongst  the  wall  decorations. 
Coke  coated  with  whi'ewash  .for  the 
ground.  Gas  jets  with  reflectors  of  glass 
mounted  on  discs  with  red,  green  and 
white  tinfoil  at  the  back  will  be  grouped 
so  as  to  give  quite  a  fairy-like  beauty  to  the 
scene;  and  one  large  electric  lamp  will  be 
placed  in  the  wooden  building,  the  same 
machine  supplying  the  electricity  as  that 
used  for  the  ball  room.  This,  bv  the  way, 
is  a  continuation  of  the  central  hall,  which 
acts  as  reception  and  crush  room,  and  for 
the  buffets  of  ices,  claret  and  champagne 
cups,  etc." 

A    SEA    SHELL    DINXER. 

"The  host  has  a  favorite  hobby — con- 
chology — and  a  most  superb  collection  of 
shells,  corals,  and  algae,  and  the  caterer 
pressed  the  whole  into  his  service,  and 
turned  out  what  the  hostess  was  pleased  to 
term  'one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  novel 
table-dressings  she  had  met  with ; '  and  her 
experience  is  wide. 

"The  huge  masses  of  white,  pink,  and 
smaller  clusters  of  red  coral  were  disposed 
of  down  the  centre  of  the  table,  seaweeds 
(dried,  of  course)  clustering  around  their 
base.  Chrysantemums — white,  red,  yellow, 
etc. — and  their  smaller  brethren,  the  pom- 
pons, were  arranged  in  groups  on  rocks  to 
resemble  sea-anemones,  and  in  clusters  on 
the  base  of  the  corals.  Star-fish  and  sim- 
ilar Crustacea  were  of  the  greatest  service. 
In  the  fountains  and  at  the  foot  of  the 
flower  vases  was  a  plentiful  supply  of  gold 
and  silver  carp. 

"There  was  not  nearly  enough  coral 
branches  for  the  design,  so  imitation  clus- 
ters were  formed  by  making  wire  frame- 
works, wrapping  them  evenly  and  regu- 
larly over  with  soft-finished  hank  darning 
cotton;  then  melting  vermillion  and  pale 
yellow  wax  and  dipping  in  the  clusters. 
The  separate  groups  required  to  be  sus- 
pended by  wire  and  to  be  dipped  in  when 
the  wax  is  a  little  cool,  then  allowed  to 
hang  with  the  points  of  the  sprays  down- 
wards. When  nearly  set,  have  a  few  fine 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


149 


needles  or  pins  set  in  a  cork  and  prick  the 
whole  surface  of  the  wax  over,  so  as  to 
imitate  the  cells  in  the  larger  coral  growths. 
Large  clam  shells,  one  nearly  ^  yard 
across,  served  as  flower  vases,  whilst  their 
smaller  polished  confreres  of  the  sea,  nau- 
tilus and  cup-like  bivalves,  made  excellent 
fruit-stands,  in  groups  of  three  between 
each  guest. 

"They  used  a  species  of  fairy-lamp, 
mounted  on  electro-silver  stands,  shading 
from  pale  yellow  to  deep  orange,  from  pale 
blue  to  a  very  delicate  Alexandra  tint,  and 
rose  to  damask.  These  in  two  and  threes, 
with  nautilus  shells  between,  filled  with 
delicate  white  sprays,  gave  a  subdued  and 
beautiful  softness  to  the  whole  of  the  table 
decorations.  Nougat  shells  and  rockeries 
helped  out  the  mise-en-sckne.  Nor  must  I 
forget  the  mermaids,  made  from  dolls' 
heads  having  long  fair  hair,  and  finished 
with  fish-tails  formed  from  wax,  and  tinted 
as  one  would  shade  wax  flowers  or  fruit. 
The  colors  were  laid  here  and  there  on 
silver  and  gold  leaf,  so  as  to  shade  from 
silver  white  to  lead  or  steel  grey,  and  from 
gold  to  deep  orange  yellow.  A  traditional 
looking-glass  and  coral  spray  as  a  comb 
completed  the  toilet,  according  to  our  Ay- 
toun's  old  ballad: 

'  For  aye  she  cambed  her  yellow  hair, 
And  syne  she  sang  sae  sweet.' 

Only,  the  dolls  did  not  sing;  but  the  string 
band  in  an  adjacant  chamber  discoursed 
some  very  fine  music,  classical  and  other- 
wise, instead  of  the  siren's  song,  which  no 
doubt  the  guests  appreciated  highly." — 
Cordon  Bleu  in  the  British  Baker,  Confec- 
tioner and  Purveyor. 

A   WEDDING   BANQUET. 

The  following  is  the  menu  of  a  wedding 
banquet  served  at  the  Southern  Hotel,  St. 
Louis.  Covers  were  laid  for  one  hundred 
and  fifty  persons.  It  was  quite  a  swell 
affair,  the  contracting  parties  being  Mr. 
Johannes  Kluchu,  of  Hamburg,  Germany, 
and  Miss  Gustana  Busch,  daughter  of  Mr. 
Adolphus  Busch,  the  great  St.  Louis  lager 
beer  brewer.  The  menu  card,  tied  with 


blue  favors,  was  an  artistic  production  in 
the  form  of  two  hearts,  and  was  much 
admired  for  its  elegance  and  novelty: 

Consomm^  en  tasses. 

Pate's  aux  hultres.     Sliced  tomatoes.     Cucumbers. 
Pompano.  Potatoes,  Duchesse. 

Haut  Sauternes. 
Tenderloin  of  beef,  aux  truffes. 

French  peas. 

Chateau  Bouillac. 

Terrapin,  a  la  Maryland. 

Amontillado  sherry. 

Punch  a  la  Romaine. 

Bride's  cake. 
Snipe  au  cresson.        Fresh   asparagus. 

Mumm's  extra  dry. 
Charlotte  Russe.  Assorted  cakes.     . 

Veuve  Cliquot. 

Roquefort  cheese  and  hard  crackers. 

Ice  cream.        Fruits.       Coffee. 

Apollinaris  water. 

GRAND    WEDDING    RECEPTIONS. 

"  In  the  first  place  it  is  necessary,  when 
receiving  the  order  for  the  'wedding  col- 
lation,' to  see  the  premises.  The  confec- 
tioner, clief,  or  contracting  party  must  view 
the  rooms.  The  shape  of  the  drawing 
room  or  grand  hall  decides  where  the  bride 
and  bridegroom  are  to  receive  their  guests. 

"The  parents  of  the  'happy  couple'  stand 
at  the  entrance  of  the  room  and  receive 
the  visitors  as  at  a  ball.  The  guests  then 
pass  on  to  the  top  of  the  room  where  a 
small  raised  dais  is  usually  erected,  covered 
with  crimson  cloth  and  snow-white  wool 
or  hair  rugs.  The  bride  is  surrounded  by 
her  bridesmaids  and  pages  on  the  left-hand 
side,  and  the  groom  by  his  best  man,  etc., 
on  the  right.  The  dais,  chairs,  steps,  etc., 
are  decorated  with  garlands  of  beautiful 
white  flowers,  such  as  edelweiss,  azaleas, 
roses,  stephanotis,  jessamine,  myrtle,  vio- 
lets, picotees,  nicotiana  afHnis,  stocks,  lili- 
umcandimum,  narcissus,  hyacinths,  bou- 
vardia,  etc.,  etc.,  which  are  all  available, 
and,  being  pure  white,  are  used,  not  only 
for  the  reception  platform,  with  its  ortho- 
dox three  steps,  but  also  for  the  stand  or 
table  on  which  the  cake  is  placed  to  the 
left  of  the  bride's  platform;  and  the 
wedding  present  table  on  the  bridegroom's 
right  hand.  If  the  presents  are  very 
numerous,  boards  and  tressels  are  used, 
covered  with  velvet  or  plush  and  lace, 
generally  guipure,  to  match  the  round  or 
oval  table  on  which  the  cake  is  placed.  A 


150 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


bow-window,  an  alcove  well  lighted,  or,  if 
a  square  room,  I  have  seen  the  hearth  used 
for  the  reception,  whilst  a  perfect  bower  of 
flowers,  delicate  fei  ns,  and  feathery  green 
foliage  was  made  over  the  pier  glass,  on 
the  surface  of  the  mantle  slab,  in  the  grate 
itself,  and  wreaths  entwined  like  lattice 
work  depended  from  the  corners  of  the 
mantlepiece  to  the  foot  of  the  dais. 

"  A  crimson  cloth  leads  from  the  door  to 
the  reception  platform.  It  throws  up  the 
beauty  of  the  bride's  white  dress,  and 
should  it  be  a  widow  remarried,  with  a 
lavender-gray  dress,  the  effect  is  equally 
rich  and  beautiful.  The  two  chairs,  used 
during  long  receptions,  are  generally  gilt, 
covered  with  crimson  Utrecht  velvet,  pre- 
ferably, as  being  a  dead  color  resting 
against  the  ivory  satin  or  repp  silk  of  the 
bride's  dress.  If  a  white  velvet  train  is 
worn,  the  caterer  must  have  repp  chairs, 
so  that  the  contrast  may  be  perfect.  He 
has  all  this  to  consider  and  arrange. 

"Now  for  the  Salle  a  Manger.  Every- 
thing that  is  admissible  at  a  high  class  ball 
supper  is  required  here.  The  people  who 
only  offer  sandwiches  are  'enough  to  make 
a  fellow  wild,'  as  Johnny  Toole  has  it,  and 
they  are  decidedly  not  bon  ton,  even  if  they 
offer  their  guests  the  forty  varieties  noticed 
by  'En  Route'  on  Lang's  celebrated  buffets. 
But  a  nos  moutons.  If  more  than  one  hun- 
dred guests  are  to  be  arranged  for,  form  the 
buffets  round  three  sides  of  the  room,  in 
the  horseshoe  shape,  it  will  please  the  bride 
and  her  mother,  the  feminine  deities  of  a 
household  being  peculiarly  superstitious, 
deny  the  soft  impeachment,  if  they  can? 
But  to  the  caterer  these  corners  are  useful. 
Raise  a  screen  across  each  angle,  pile  vir- 
gin cork  t«  imitate  rock  work,  also  mosses, 
grasses,  ferns,  and  flowers  against  it.  They 
make  nice  places  for  your  '  wash-ups,'  and 
the  storage  of  an  ice  safe  or  two,  relays  of 
pastry,  fowls,  etc.,  etc.,  and  for  urns  of  the 
larger  size  with  tea,  coffee,  etc.,  which  if 
near  the  displayed  ices  and  jellies  might 
do  serious  damage.  At  all  fashionable  and 
k  la  mode  weddings  there  are  two  bride's 
cakes.  The  major  or  best  cake  in  the 


drawing  room  and  the  minor  in  the  refresh- 
ment room.  From  forty  to  fifty  small 
tables  are  arranged  with  four  seats  to  each, 
menu  cards  form  the  centre-piece.  The 
prettiest  I  have  seen  were  triangular,  of 
white  porcelain,  headed  with  a  cupid 
perched  in  a  tree,  and  a  slim  fair  maiden 
in  robes  of  white,  with  cornflowers  in  her 
Leghorn  hat,  standing  in  a  very  fre-Ra- 
pfiaelite  field,  with  one  of  the  archer  god's 
darts  in  her  breast  and  her  hand  on  it. 
Whilst  an  Adonis  of,  I  must  confess,  rather 
dusky  hue,  and  curly  hair,  was  issuing 
from  behind  a  tree.  By  the  way,  I  may  as 
well  here  give  the 


Caviare  noir.          Caviare  de  Xorwe"ge. 

Huitres. 

Pate  de  foie  gras. 
Galantine  de  tete  de  veau. 
TERRINES   (Potted  meats). 

Terrines  de  leveret. 
Et  perigord,  bceuf  ,  f  aison,  etc. 

Mayonnaise  du  saumon. 

Mayonnaise  vert,  blanc  et  jaune. 

Andouiliettes,  vol  au-vents  de  crSme  de  poulette. 

Crfime  de  veau,  etc. 

Godivaux  et  quenelles. 

Langue  de  bceuf  glace1.    Boeuf  r6ti  et  garni. 

Poulettes.       Jambons  de  Yorke. 

Dindon  rflti  et  en  galantine,  chevreuil  rote. 

Pat6  de  venaison.          Pate  de  faisan. 

Faisan  r6ti.    Faisan  a  1'Indienne. 

Mayonnaise  de  perdreaux.  Pat6  de  perdreaux. 

Florendines  de  lievre.    Trophee  de  be"casse. 

Pate"  de  b^casse.        Pluviers  en  broche. 

Ortolans  en  aspic.    Cailles  en  aspic. 

Aspics  de  poisson,  de  pigeon  et  de  legumes. 

Pates  des  gibers.          Salaries. 

PATISSERIES. 

Puits  d'amour.     Meringues.      Nougats.    Gateaux. 
Creams.   Jellies.    Ices,  etc. 

WINES. 

Champagne.    Claret  cup.    Port.  .  Sherry. 

Chablis.         Liqueur  d'Or.         Liqueur  chartreuse. 

Maraschino.        Noyeau,  pink  and  white. 

Punch  and  lovinf  cup. 
Fruits,  fresh  and  dried.      Tea.      Coffee,  etc. 

"The  arrangements  of  the  buffet  are  in 
this  wise.  In  the  centre  of  the  horseshoe 
table  is  the  wedding  cake,  ornamented  with 
a  wreath  of  natural  white  flowers  and  green 
foliage  of  a  light  character  round  its  base. 
The  various  tiers  are  dressed  with  group- 
ings of  designs  in  sugar  work,  showing 
forth  some  Shakesperean  love  story  ;  Ten- 
nysonian  idyll  ;  or  groupings  of  historic 
scenes  from  the  family  history.  The  edges 
are  piped  in  white,  and  the  wreaths  on  the 
cake  are  of  sugar  work.  If  natural  flowers 
are  used  they  are  not  placed  on  the  sugar 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


151 


work  or  icing  direct,  but  in  delicate  vases, 
and  the  stems  wrapped  in  damp  cotton 
wool,  as  no  water  must  touch  the  icing, 
and  the  flavor  of  flowers  and  plants  do  not 
add  to  the  gout  of  the  cake's  icing.  There 
are  usually  stands  of  three  tiers  about  four 
feet  long,  draped  in  crimson  or  pale  blue 
sateen  with  lace  valances,  on  which  rest 
the  lighter  pastries,  jellies,  creams,  etc., 
interspersed  with  groups  of  many-hued 
flowers  in '  pots,  together  with  bouquets, 
and  stands  of  cut  exotics,  e*pergnes  of  fruits. 
Trophies  of  game,  fowl  or  sweets  rests  on 
the  buffet  itself,  whilst  between  the  four- 
feet  tiers  spaces  are  left  where,  behind  the 
buffet,  the  carvers,  in  their  spotless  white 
dress  and  caps,  are  to  be  seen  busily  en- 
gaged, and  their  assistant  servers,  neatly 
dressed  young  women,  handing  the  plates 
to  the  army  of  well-trained  servants  and 
waiters  attending  to  the  guests,  who  group 
themselves  at  the  small  tables  or  sit  down 
at  a  long  dining  table  in  the  centre  of  the 
room. 

"The  rage  just  now  is  to  have  a  high- 
class  string  quartette  band  playing  really 
good  chamber  music,  and  not  a  few  of  dear 
old  Abbe  Lizzt's  pieces,  Mendelssohn's 
songs  without  word«,  music  from  the  Mid- 
summer Night's  Dream,  selections  from 
Flotow,  Gounod,  etc.,  find  their  way  into 
the  programme  of  sweet  sounds.  The 
cake  in  the  Salle  a  Manger  is  not  supposed 
to  be  cut  till  the  bride's  parents  or  sisters 
send  it  out  to  their  absent  friends  and 
relatives.  To  dream  on,  eh?  It  is  the  cake 
in  the  reception  room  that  receives  the 
honor  of  distribution,  and  is  partaken  of 
with  light  wine  at  the  reception." — Cordon 
Bleu  in  British  and  Foreign  Confectioner. 

WEDDING    BREAKFASTS,    AND   THE    PRICES 

CHARGED. 
[From  the  London  Caterer^ 

Lent  will  soon  be  over,  then  comes  the 
time  when  so  many  marriages  are  cele- 
brated, and  as  it  has  now  become  much  the 
fashion  to  hold  the  wedding  breakfast  at 
some  good  hotel,  I  think  it  just  possible  I 
may  be  able  to  give  some  useful  hints  to 


the  inexperienced  hotel  keeper  by  publish- 
ing menus  of  a  few  of  the  many  wedding 
breakfasts  I  have  had  prepared,  together 
with  a  short  description  of  the  table  ar- 
rangements, number  of  guests  present  at 
each,  and  the  charge  per  head. 

MENU  NO.  i. 

Consomm6  a  la  Victoria. 

Aspic  of  Prawns.      Lobster  Salad. 

Roast  Fowls.  Cumberland  Ham. 

Roast  Lamb.         Pressed  Be  ef. 

Swiss  Cake.      Fruit  Jellies. 

Strawberry  Cream  and  Lemon  Water  Ices. 

Dessert  and  Bonbons. 

The  above,  as  will  be  seen,  was  a  very 
simple  breakfast,  as  we  were  restricted  to 
price,  75.  6d.  ($2.00)  per  head,  including 
half  a  pint  of  wine  to  each  person".  Sixteen 
sat  down.  The  table,  a  long  one,  seating 
seven  persons  on  either  side  and  one  at 
each  end,  was  laid  in  the  ladies'  coffee-room 
(kept  private  for  the  day),  and  was  prettily 
decorated  with  a  border  of  flowers,  about 
one  foot  wide,  just  inside  the  plates;  oppo- 
site the  latter  were  sixteen  rustic  branches 
rising  from  the  flower  border,  to  support 
the  menus,  which  were  printed  in  silver  on 
a  white  ground.  A  small  cake,  sent  by  the 
bride's  parents,  was  in  the  centre.  The 
table-napkins  were  folded  like  tents,  the 
bridegroom  being  an  officer  in  the  army. 

MENU  No.  a, 

Consomm6  a  la  Nelson. 
Mayonnaise  of  Salmon.        Lobster  Patties. 

Lamb  Cutlets  and  Green  Peas. 

Capons  Bechamel  a  la  Belle  Viie. 

Galantine  of  Veal.  Game  Pies. 

Italian  Salad. 
Wine  Jellies.        Velvet  Cream. 

Charlotte  a  la  Parisienne. 

Chocolate  and  Strawberry  Ices. 

Dessert  and  Bonbons. 

The  above  was  served  for  twenty-four 
persons  at  IDS.  6d.  ($2.50)  per  head,  includ- 
ing a  pint  of  wine  for  each  person.  The 
table,  a  long  one,  was  laid  in  the  ladies' 
coffee-room,  kept  private  as  before.  The 
cake,  a  very  high  one,  was  sent  in  by  the 
bride's  friends.  The  bridegroom  being  a 
naval  officer,  we  decorated  the  table  with 
little  satin  flags,  suggestive  of  a  ship  on 
some  great  holiday.  From  the  cake  (form- 
ing the  centre  or  highest  mast)  depended 
twenty-four  silk  ropes,  on  which  were 
threaded  the  tiny  flags.  These  were  ter- 


152 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


minated  by  a  china  figure  of  a  sailor  boy 
holding  the  menu  to  each  guest.  The  menu 
was  very  pale  blue,  printed  in  a  deeper 
shade.  The  table-napkins  folded  like  boats, 
and  the  most  beautiful  sea-weeds  were 
mixed  with  the  flowers.  The  effect  was 
charming  and  gained  me  warm  approbation 
from  those  who  gave  the  breakfast. 

MENU  No.  3. 

Palestine  Soup. 
Pate"  de  Foie  gras  en  Aspic. 

Croustade  de  Ris  de  Veau. 
Mutton  Cutlets  a  la  Princesse. 

Lobster  Salad. 
Petits   Poulets  bouilli  k  la  Cr6me. 

Pat6  &  la  Parisienne. 
Poulet  R6ti.    Quartier  d'Agneau.     Quails. 

Crfime  aux  Fraises.          Gele'es. 

Pouding  glace  i  la  Nesselrode,  Iced  Gooseberry 

Fool,  Dessert,  and  Bonbons. 

The  above  was  served  in  the  general 
coffee-room  (kept  private  for  the  time). 
Thirty  sat  down.  Charge,  125.  6d.  ($3.00) 
per  head,  including  pint  of  wine.  The 
table  was  T-shaped,  a  short  table  being 
placed  at  the  upper  end  of  the  longer  one. 
The  cake,  supplied  by  bride,  was  in  centre 
of  the  long  table,  and  the  decorations  were 
flowers  in  low,  flat  dishes,  placed  entirely 
round  the  principal  joints,  etc.,  and  little 
china  figures  of  children  holding  a  small 
bouquet  in  one  hand,  the  menu  in  the  other, 
to  each  guest  The  table-napkins  were 
folded  like  a  letter,  held  together  by  a  sil- 
vered quill  pen,  menus  the  same,  the  bride- 
groom being  a  solicitor. 

MENU  No.  4. 

Oysters.        Nouille  Soup. 

Aspic  of  Lobster. 

Fillets  of  Soles  in  Savoury  Jelly. 

Fillets  of  Chicken,   Tartar  Sauce, 

Galantine  of  Veal.          Boiled  Fowls  with  Truffles. 

Roast  Chickens.    Ox  Tongue.    Pressed  Beef. 

Partridges.     Black  Game.     Grouse. 

Chartreuse  of  Fruit.        Cold-water  Jelly. 

Neapolitan  Cakes.          Fanchpnettes. 

Compote  of  Peaches.     Trifle. 

Apricot  Cream  and  Orange-water  Ices. 

Dessert  and  Bonbons. 

Forty-five  sat  down  to  the  table.  Charge, 
15s.  ($3-75)  Per  head,  including  pint  of 
wine  to  each.  Long  table,  same  as  Nos.  i 
and  2 ;  but  in  addition  to  the  cake  provided 
by  the  bride's  relations,  and  which  formed 
the  centre,  we  had  six  very  handsome  sil- 
ver e"pergnes,  and  the  flowers  were  fes- 
tooned right  down  the  table,  the  cake  and 


e*pergnes  forming  the  supports.  A  pair  of 
tinted  doves  were  placed  before  each  guest, 
one  holding  the  menu  in  its  beak,  the  other 
a  few  choice  flowers.  Table  napkins  folded 
like  a  large  Lily  of  the  Nile. 

MENU  No.  5. 
Consomme  a  la  Princesse.        Pure'e  i  la  Reine. 

Homard  Jt  la  Victoria. 

Cailles  farci  aux  Perigord. 

Mayonnaise  de  Volaille  aux  Olives. 

Timbale  de  Pigeons  £.  la  Gel£e. 
Supreme  de  Volaille  a  la  Jardiniere, 

Petits  Bouchers  aux  Hultres. 

COtelettes  d'Agneau  aux  Cocombre. 

Langue  de  bceuf  d'e'carlate.  Poulet  roti  aux  Cresson. 

Dame  de  Saumon  &  la  Montpellirr. 
P4t6  de  Gibier.     Poulets  bouilli  &  la  Bechamel. 

Quartier  d'Agneau.      Dames  d'Honneur. 

Compete  d'Orange.  Gelees  &  la  Royal  et  d'Or. 

Genoise  Glace.      Crfime  aux  Pafait  d  Amour. 

Eau  d'Ananas.        CrSme  aux  Fraises. 

Dessert  and  Bonbons. 

Fifty  sat  down  to  the  above.  Charge, 
175.  6d.  ($4.25)  per  head,  including  pint  of 
champagne  to  each  person.  The  table  was 
laid  in  the  table  d'hdte  room,  and  was  most 
beautifully  decorated  with  flowers  and 
many  valuable  articles  of  glass  and  plate 
lent  by  the  families  of  the  bride  and  bride- 
groom. Noticeable  amongst  these  were 
fifty  silver  ornaments,  including  cupids, 
shepherds  and  shepherdesses,  doves,  and 
other  birds,  for  holding  the  menus,  which 
were  of  white  satin,  printed  in  bright  blue, 
but  very  small  type.  Table-napkins  folded 
in  various  shapes,  so  as  to  hold  a  small 
bouquet  of  flowers. 

MENU  No.  6. 
Potage  aux  Kultres.         Consomme"  k  la  RoyaL 

Salade  d'Homard  Mont6. 

Pat(5  de  Foie  Gras  a  la  Gel<§e. 

Supreme  de  Volaille  aux  Truffes. 

Pate'  de  Gibier  k  la  Strasbourg. 

Roulades  braise  a  la  Royale. 

Mayonnaise  de  Saumon  &  la  Montpellier. 

Petits  Poulets  aux  Champignons.        Quails. 

Gateaux  a  la  Lome.        Meringues  au  Cafe  Mocha 

Gt-le'es  aux  Ponche  et  d'Or. 

Fanchonettes  &  la  Cr6me. 

Chocolate  Cream  and  Cherry  Water  Ices. 

Dessert  and  Bonbons. 

The  above  was  for  twenty  persons. 
Charge,  2 is.  ($5.00)  per  head,  including 
pint  of  champagne  to  each  person.  This 
was  served  in  a  large  private  sitting-room, 
T-shaped  table,  charmingly  ornamented 
with  twenty  little  arches  formed  of  flowers, 
under  which  stood  a  little  alabaster  figure, 
holding  the  menu  opposite  each  guest. 
Arches  were  also  formed  over  the  principal 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


dishes,  these  being  surmounted  by  tiny 
white  and  red  satin  flags,  bearing  the  united 
monograms  of  the  bride  and  bridegroom. 
The  effect  was  exceedingly  good,  and 
gained  a  deal  of  praise. 

MENU  No.  7. 

Potage  de  Gibier  Clair. 

Petits  Croustades  aux  Huitre=. 

Choxix  froid  de  Perdrix  aux  Truffes. 

COtelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Provencale. 

Salades  d'Homard  k  la  Victoria. 

Mayonnaise  de  Volaille  aux  Pois. 

Poulet  aux  Meriton.     Jambon  a  1'Ecarlate. 

Langue  de  Bceuf  Mont6.  Petits  Poulets  r6tis. 

Boeuf  Brais6.        Coq  de  Bruyere. 

Baba  a  la  Polonaise.      Lonidor  de  Raisins. 

Vetille  a  Comfiture.  Gateaux  de  Savoie. 

Vanilla  Cream  and  Currant-water  Ices. 

Dessert,  Bonbons. 

The  above  was  served  for  eighteen  at 
2is.  ($5.00)  per  head,  including  pint  of 
champagne  for  each  person.  The  table 
was  a  long  one,  with  cake  in  the  centre. 
Its  entire  surface  was  covered  with  flowers 
In  low  flat  dishes  between  the  different 
viands.  The'  napkins  were  folded  like 
artichokes,  every  fold  being  filled  with 
flowers,  so  that  each  napkin  looked  like  a 
bouquet.  A  miniature  sword  and  gun  were 
crossed  and  placed  upright  before  each 
guest,  so  as  to  support  the  menus,  which 
were  silver  laid,  made  in  the  form  of  a 
shield,  and  printed  in  bold  red  type. 

MENU  No.  8. 

Soup  £  la  Reine.        Asparaarus  Soup. 

Salmon,  Sauce  Hollandaise.        Fillets  of  Soles. 

Ovsttr  Patties.  Quenelles  of  Chicken. 

lEscallopes  of  Lark.        Leveret  Cutlets. 

Truffled  Turkey.     Russian  Tongue. 

Roast  Lamb.     Spring  chicken. 
Pigeons  in  Jelly.          Terrine  de  Foie  Gras. 

Quails.      Lobster  and  Italian  Salads. 

Small  Pastry.       German  Tart.        Fruit  Jellies. 

Vanilla  Creams.     Ice  Pudding. 

Dessert  and  Bonbons. 

The  above  was  served  for  twenty -eight 
persons  at  255.  ($6.00)  per  head,  including 
a  pint  of  champagne  for  each.  The  table 
was  a  large  square  one,  formed  of  four 
smaller  ones  placed  together,  so  as  to  seat 
seven  at  each  s'de.  The  cake,  a  very  large 
one,  was  placed  in  the  centre,  and  a  sloping 
bank  made  all  round  to  come  about  eighteen 
inches  on  to  the  table.  From  this  raised 
bank  twenty-eight  festoons  of  flowers  de- 
pended, each  terminating  opposite  a  guest, 
and  finished  by  a  little  cupid  holding  the 
menu,  which  was  white  satin  bordered  with 


a  row  of  small  pearls.  The  effect  was 
charming,  and,  indeed,  the  table  was  pho- 
tographed for  its  beauty  and  the  photos 
sold  locally,  the  bridegroom  being  a  public 
man  and  popular  in  the  neighborhood. 

In  all  cases  the  entire  service  was  of 
white  china.  The  waiters  wore  white 
gloves  during  the  breakfast.  Crimson 
cloth  was  laid  on  the  front  steps  and  down 
to  the  carriages.  A  large  drawing  room 
was  set  apart  for  the  guests  to  assemble  in 
before  breakfast,  and  bedrooms  allotted  for 
the  ladies  and  gentlemen  to  leave  their 
ha's,  cloaks,  etc.,  etc. 

I  made  a  point  to  have  everything  ready 
long  before  the  time  required.  All  the 
dishes  decorated  the  last  thing  with  fresh 
flowers.  Plenty  of  ice  on  the  table,  and  a 
sufficient  number  of  waiters  (allowing  one 
to  five  guests),  with  extra  hands  to  carry 
to  and  from  the  rooms.  No  talking  al- 
lowed amongst  the  servants,  and  a  good 
supply  of  extra  cutlery,  glass,  cloths,  and 
anything  else  that  might  be  wanted.  Prob- 
ably in  attention  to  these  details  may  be 
found  the  chief  reason  why  these  enter- 
tainments passed  off  so  successfully  as 
they  did. 

SOMETHING   ABOUT   THE   COST. 

"  A  dozen  big  suppers  have  been  given 
this  winter  at  a  cost  of  $50  per  person. 
The  flowers  at  the  famous  Vanderbilt  ball 
cost  $12,000.  The  roses  for  Mrs.  Bradley 
Martin's  dinner  and  cotillon  cost  $15,000. 
One  hundred  guests  sat  down  to  the  din- 
ner. It  cost  $75  per  person,  inclusive  of 
the  flowers  and  the  favors.  The  Living- 
ston ball  and  supper  in  Delmonico's  in 
January  cost  $30,000. 

"A  dinner  was  given  the  other  evening 
in  one  of  the  highly  decorated  apartments 
of  an  uptown  hotel  that  cost  $75  per  plate. 
Nine  guests  sat  down  to  this  feast,  which 
was  worthy  of  Lucullus.  Hand-painted 
menus,  worthy  of  preservation  as  works 
of  art,  cost  five  dollars  each.  The  cigars 
were  specially  imported  from  Havana  with 
a  brand  prepared  for  the  occasion.  Many 
of  the  wines  were  specially  ordered." 


154 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


TEN    DOLLARS    PER    PLATE. 

Press  Club  banquet  at  Delmonico's  ;  250 
plates  at  $10.00  per  plate,  including  wine: 


Sauteraes  Ire  Hultres 

Sherry  Poiages 

Consomme  a  la  Douglas 

Bisque  d'Homards 
Varies        Hors  d'GEuvres        Varies 

Timbales  a  la  Rcine 
Sauternes  Ire  Poisson 

Saumon  de  1'Oregon  a  la  Nantaise 

Pommes  de  Terre  Per^ihade 
Pommery  sec  Releves 

Filets  de  Bceuf  a  la  Montebello 

Choux  ae  rfruxelles 
St.  Julien  Superieur    Entrees. 

Poulardes  Braisees  a  la  Lyonnaise 
Croquettes  de  ris  de  veau 

Petits  pois  au  buerre 

Haricots  verts 
Sorbet  a  1  "Imperial 
Macon  Veauz  Roti 

Canvas-back  Duck       Salade  de  Laitue 
Entremets  de  Douceur 

Pouding  aux  Bananes 

Gauffres  a  la  Crfime       Gelee  aux  pistaches 
Liqueurs  Pieces  Montees 

Glaces  Napohtaine        Biscuit  Diplomate 

Fruits        Petits  fours        Caf£ 

Cigares  et  Cigarettes 

FIVE   DOLLARS   PER   PLATE   WITHOUT 
WINE. 

The  Brooklyn  Eagle,  commenting  on 
Dr.  Parker,  the  now  famed  English 
preacher,  says:  "Dinner  was  his  great 
meal,  and  it  generally  put  him  in  a  condi- 
tion of  gentle  torpidity  for  two  hours  after 
his  encounter  with  it.  But  his  other  meals 
were  by  no  means  to  be  sneezed  at  Here 
is  one  of  his  suppers,  eaten  at  i  r  o'clock  at 
night  in  his  rooms  in  the  St.  George.  It 
is  an  average  light  meal  for  him. 

Green  turtle  soup  for  two  .............  $1.00 

Fried  smelts  for  two  ..................    i.oo 

Porterhouse  steak  for  two  ............    i.oo 

One  whole  broiled  chicken  ............    i.io 

Baked  potatoes  for  two  ...............      20 

Ice  Cream  for  two  ....................      40 

Total  ..............................  $4-70 

SIX    DOLLARS    WITH    WINE    AT    THE    CAFE 
ROYAL,    LONDON. 

For  the  man  who  wishes  to  entertain  a 
party  at  dinner,  and  who  can  afford  to  dis- 
regard expense,  the  Royal  offers  exceptional 
advantages.  We  give  the  menu  of  a  dinner 
for  which  the  management  were  respon- 
sible. They  were  told  to  draw  up  a  menu 


for  a  first-class  dinner  and  to  fix  their  own 
charge  per  head.  The  charge  was  £i  55., 
and  the  menu  as  follows: 


Chablis  Clos. 
iSSi. 

Amontillado. 
Marcobrunner. 

MOet  et  Chandon 

iSSo, 
Cuvee  Xo.  300. 

Ch.  Brown 
Cantenac,  1875. 

Fine 
Champagne. 

Porto. 


Hultres. 
Imperalrice. 

Saumon,  Sauce  Mousseline. 

Pommes  Chateaubriand. 

Salade  de  Concombres. 

BlanchailleJ  au  Xaturel  et  a  la 

Diable. 
Coquilles  de  Crustaces  a  la  Caf$ 

Hoyal. 
Poulets  dc  Printemps  sautes 

a  la  Chasseur. 
Quartier  d'Agneau,  Sauce 

Menthe. 

Petits  Hois. 

Pommes  Rissol^es. 

Cailles  bardees  a  la  Casserole. 

Salade. 

Mousse  a  la  Napolitaine  glacee. 
Fromages.  Dessert. 


TWO   DOLLARS    WITHOUT    WINE. 

For  dinners  in  private  rooms  the  prices 
vary.  Here  is  the  menu  of  a  dinner  at  75. 
6d.  a  head,  given  by  the  editor  of  a  societj 
paper  to  his  staff  of  lady  contributors : 

Consomme"  de  Volaille  a  la  Rosalie. 

Garbure  lie. 

Filets  de  Soles  a  la  Mornev. 

Blanchailles  au  Naturel  et  a  la  Diable. 

Petits  Ris  en  Caisse  aux  Pointes  d'Asperges. 

Pitreons  de  Bordeaux  sau'e's  a  la  Nicols. 

Quartier  d'Agneau,  Sauce  Menthe. 

Pommes  rissolees. 

Petits  Pois. 

Poulets  de  Printemps. 

Jambon  d'YorK. 

Salade. 

Be^gnets  de  Pommes. 

Souffles  au  Chocolat  glaces. 

Fromages.  Dessert. 


A  TEN-DOLLAR    MEAL    FOR    FIVE    DOLLARS. 

If  you  are  a  frugal  man  you  will  never 
go  to  the  Brunswick  or  Delmonico's  alone. 
Take  your  wife,  your  daughter  or  your 
sweetheart  along,  for  in  these  establish- 
ments each  portion  served  will  be  found 
sufficient  for  two,  and  each  is  intended  for 
two.  The  extra  service  costs  nothing.  If 
you  have  no  lady  iriend  or  relative  in  town 
take  a  gentleman  along,  and  remember,  if 
you  are  on  terms  of  close  intimacy  with 
him,  that  there  is  no  impropriety  in  throw- 
ing out  a  gentle  hint  that  the  expense  be 
borne  equally  by  each.  Your  repast  may 
cost  you  each  a  dollar,  or  it  may  cost  ten 
dollars.  Take,  as  an  instance,  this  very 
general  order: 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


155 


Rockaway  oysters $0.50 

California  brook  trout i.oo 

Shoulder  of  lainb 0.80 

Mallard  duck 1.5° 

Bermuda  potatoes 0.25 

Celery 040 

Asparagus o.lto 

Champagne ,  quart  bottle S'°° 

Malaga  grapes 0.40 

Turkish  coffee 0.20 

This  sums  up $10.65. 

Give  the  waiter  eleven  dollars  and  ac- 
cept no  change,  otherwise  he  will  be  of- 
fended and  ^  will  be  sure  to  receive  you 
with  a  scowl  next  time  yon  call.  Your 
meal  will  thus  cost  you  each  five  dollars 
and  a  half.  There  is  no  extra  charge  for 
occupying  a  private  room,  but  you  cannot 
have  one  unless  your  party  is  sufficiently 
large  to  fill  it.  The  smallest  of  these 
rooms  is  intended  to  accommodate  four 
persons.  A  costly  display  of  ornamenta- 
tion is  rarely  made  or  desired  for  small 
parties.  Regularly  organized  societies  or 
clubs  and  associations  of  college  graduates 
have  the  .  monopoly  of  these  things,  and 
the  expense  can  be  made  light  or  heavy  as 
the  guests  desire.  A  small  fortune  can  be 
expended  in  a  night  on  flowers,  menus  and 
souvenirs. 

DINNERS    AT   THIRTY    DOLLARS. 

The  chef  at  the  Brunswick  says  that  no 
dinner  has  recently  been  served  at  the 
establishment  at  which  the  cost  per  cover 
exceeded  thirty  dollars.  In  one  instance 
the  party  consisted  of  forty  ladies  and 
gentlemen,  who  believe  that  the  acme  of 
human  happiness  is  to  sit  perched  aloft  on 
a  tally-ho  as  it  rumbles  over  the  highways. 
A  bright  and  chatty  waiter,  employed  in 
the  place,  said :  "  Dinners  at  thirty  dollars, 
or  even  at  twenty  dollars,  are  as  few  and 
far  between  as  those  at  seventy-five  dollars. 
You  will  be  about  correct  if  you  sav  a 
complete  dinner  with  wine  can  be  served 
to  small  parties  for  from  twelve  to  fifteen 
dollars  each,  and  for  large  ones  at  from 
eight  to  ten  dollars  each." 

TEMPERANCE     CATERING. 

"  Do  you  cater  to  the  so-called  temper- 
ance people?"  asked  the  writer. 


"  Yes,  and  while  there  is  no  wine  served 
from  bottles,  we  manage  to  introduce 
enough  of  it  to  make  the  company  lively. 
There  is  mighty  little  inspiration  to  be  ob- 
tained out  of  a  glass  of  water,  and  that 
class  of  people  knows  this  as  well  as  we  do. 
They  don't,  as  a  rule,  order  us  to  fortify 
the  viands  with  wine,  but  I  notice  that 
dishes  which  contain  spirits  are  usually 
selected  from  the  bills  of  fare  submitted 
for  their  consideration.  Roman  punch  is 
always  acceptable  to  them  and  is  jokingly 
called  'the  life-saving  station'  of  a  tem- 
perance dinner.  Fritters  of  fruits  and 
vegetables  having  maraschino  sauce  is  an- 
other temperance  delight  not  often  ob- 
jected to. 

"Terrapin  may  be  good  eating  without 
a  little  sherry,"  continued  the  caterer,  "but 
I  have  never  served  it  without  adding 
sherry  to  it.  Every  one  knows  that  it  is  the 
wine  which  improves  its  flavor.  Terrapin 
is  a  very  popular  dish  among  so-called  tem- 
perance diners.  There  are  a  variety  of 
sauces  which  are  served  with  meats  that 
contain  more  or  less  wine.  The  one  most 
favored  at  these  temperance  dinners  is 
sauce  Bordelaise.  The  electric  pudding, 
so  called  because  it  is  liberally  charged 
with  brandy,  was  invented  by  a  temperance 
dinner-giver.  Here  are  three  of  their  bills, 
of  fare  having  tipsy  parson  pudding  on 
them.  In  desserts  we  can  furnish  an  end- 
less variety  of  dainties  well  calculated  to 
losen  the  tongues  of  temperance  after-din- 
ner speakers.  When  you  want  to  give 
that  kind  of  a  banquet  come  and  see  me." 

TIPSY    FRUIT   AT   A   TEMPERANCE 
BANQUET. 

•'The  most  notable  anecdote  of  Hayes' 
administration  seems  to  have  been  that 
relating  to  the  device  resorted  to  to  turn 
the  flank  of  Mrs.  Hayes'  determination  to 
allow  no  intoxicating  beverages  at  her 
table.  Mr.  Evarts,  Secretary  of  State,  re- 
fused to  permit  the  Diplomatic  Corps  to  be 
invited  to  their  customary  annual  dinner 
unless  wine  could  be  on  the  table.  This 
Mrs.  Hayes  refused  to  allow ;  but  the  stew- 


',56 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


ard  managed  to  gratify  those  fond  of  some- 
thing stronger  than  lemonade.  Among 
the  delicacies  on  the  table  were  an  extra- 
ordinary number  of  oranges,  and  waiters 
were  kept  busy  replenishing  the  salvers  on 
which  the  tropical  fruit  lay.  Glances 
telegraphed  to  one  another  that  the  miss- 
ing link  was  found,  and  that,  concealed 
within  the  oranges  was  delicious  frozen 
punch,  a  large  ingredient  of  which  was 
strong  old  Santa  Croix  rum.  This  phase 
of  the  dinner  was  named  by  those  who 
enjoyed  it  'the  life-saving  station.'  " 

PROHIBITIONISTS    AND    FASHIONABLE 
COOKERY. 

There  is  no  little  stir  among  the  prohi- 
bitionists who  attended  the  great  banquet 
•at  Martinelli's  the  other  night,  for  it  has 
been  discovered  that  brandy,  wine,  white 
and  red,  and  other  liquors  were  served  to 
them  in  disguise.  The  banquet  was  served 
in  honor  of  Brother  Demarest,  their  great 
leader. 

While  no  liquor  was  served  as  a  bever- 
age, and  not  even  Roman  punch  appeared 
in  that  part  of  the  feast  known  as  the  life 
saving  station,  yet  the  discreet  cooks  had 
in  other  respects  not  been  sparing  of  vari- 
ous forms  of  alcohol.  For  instance,  in  the 
mushroom  sauce  there  was  some  fine  old 
brandy,  whose  function  in  the  sauce  was 
to  prevent  it  from  fermenting.  In  the 
bisque  of  lobsters  was  some  royal  old 
sherry,  placed  there  to  prevent  the  lobster 
from  settling  to  the  bottom  of  the  soup 
plates. 

One  of  the  firm  who  run  the  establish- 
ment under  Martinelli's  name  said : 

"There  is  nothing  so  discouraging  to  a 
caterer  as  serving  a  series  of  prohibition 
spreads,  and  we  would  not  have  taken  that 
night's  order  were  it  not  for  the  fact  that 
some  of  the  gentlemen  dine  here  occasion- 
ally and  drink  claret  with  their  meals.  A 
caterer  who  serves  many  so-called  prohibi- 
tion dinners  somehow  gets  the  reputation 
of  not  caring  to  serve  fine  dinners.  Yet 
we  are  obliged  to  use  liquors  secretly,  or 
our  reputation  is  ruined.  Every  cook 


knows  that  a  bisque  of  lobster  must  have 
wine  in  it  to  tone  it  up,  and  no  cook  ever 
lived  who  made  a  mushroom  sauce  to  serve 
with^  meats  without  brandy  or  a  heavy 
wine  to  keep  it  of  the  proper  consistency. 

"  Now,  had  they  paid  $4  per  plate  for 
their  dinner,  we  would  have  given  them  a 
temperance  banquet  that  would  have  made 
their  hair  curl.  First,  we  would  give  them 
mock  turtle  soup,  which  for  a  party  of 
sixty  would  take  four  bottles  .of  sherry  to 
tone  it  up.  Then  we  would  give  a  baked 
striped  bass,  with  sauce  Bordelaise,  which 
everybody  knows  contains  a  large  amount 
of  claret.  Chicken  Bearnaise  would  follow, 
and  by  this  time  the  guests  would  begin  to 
be  communicative  and  begin  to  enjoy  their 
dinner.  We  always  serve  Roman  punch 
at  these  first-class  prohibition  feasts,  but 
disguise  it  under  another  name  and  con- 
ceal the  flavor  of  the  rum  or  kirsch  by 
strong  vanilla  and  other  flavors,  but  orange 
is  the  best  flavor  to  use  for  this  purpose. 
The  name  under  which  this  punch  is  gen- 
erally served  is  punch  cardinal. 

"Tipsy  parson  pudding  is,  strange  as  it 
may  seem  to  you,  the  favorite  dessert  at 
these  dinners.  We  soak  the  cake  in  sherry, 
then  cover  it  with  a  rich  custard  sauce, 
and  it  takes  like  hot  cakes  on  a  frosty 
morning.  The  most  acceptable  cream  is 
St.  Honore.  This  contains  a  fine  cordial- 
flavored  cream  surrounded  with  maca- 
roons, and  these  are  surrounded  with 
brandy  cherries.  As  for  cheese  they  pre- 
fer it  mixed  to  a  paste  and  moistened  with 
brandy.  This,  when  spread  upon  toasted 
crackers,  is  delightful.  No  one,  prohibi- 
tionist or  gourmet,  can  have  a  dinner  which 
is  worth  eating  in  which  liquor  does  not 
perform  its  function,  open  or  concealed, 
and  we  never  gave  a  temperance  dinner  in 
which  brandy  and  wine  were  not  used  in 
cooking." 

TOO   RICH   FOR   HIS   BLOOD. 

"The  Major-General  in  charge  of  the 
militia  here  (San  Francisco),  after  reading 
the  interview  which  a  reporter  had  with 
the  captain  of  the  salvation  army,  con- 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


157 


eluded  that  he  ought  to  show  him  some 
military  courtesies,  and  so  invited  him  to 
dinner.  'Hallelujah!  How  d'ye  do?'  said 
the  visitor  on  entering  a  fashionable  res- 
taurant, in  response  to  the  invitation ;  and 
as  he  looked  round  and  saw  nothing  but 
water  on  the  table,  he  smiled  approvingly. 
'  And  you  drink  water,  too,  general  ? '  said 
the  Salvationist.  *Most  frequently,'  was 
the  reply.  '  Here's  \o  your  health,  brother 
soldier!'  And  the  mundane  and  spiritual 
officers  pledged  each  other.  The  first 
course  was  terrapin  soup,  with  about  a 
bottle  of  good  old  Madeira  in  it.  It  was  a 
new  dish  to  the  Salvationist,  and  he  bright- 
ened up  considerably  after  the  third  plate- 
ful, and  asked  all  about  the  habits  of  terra- 
pin. 'Hallelujah!  but  it's  comforting  and 
warming.'  '  Only  a  very  plain  repast,'  re- 
plied the  M.-G.,  as  the  waiter  brought  on 
a  roast  hare  with  currant  jelly  and  Bur- 
gundy sauce.  'Delicious  eating,  a  hare,' 
said  the  captain,  'and  magnificent  sauce 
this.  We  poor  soldiers  of  the  church  sel- 
dom fare  like  this.  Gimme  some  more 
sauce.  And  what  exquisite  coffee!'  he 
continued,  as  he  swallowed  a  cup  of  black 
coffee  with  a  glass  of  cognac  in  it,  and 
passed  it  to  the  waiter  to  refill  it.  'So 
proud  to  meet  a  man  like  you,  general,  in 
this  city!  Such  noble  example!  Going 
to  write  to  headquarters  to-night.  Splendid 
omelette  that,  too,  looks  as  if  it  had  been 
on  fire.'  'Try  a  preserved  peach,'  said  the 
general,  helping  his  guest  liberally  to  some 
brandied  peaches;  'they  are  very  soothiug 
— and  just  one  more  cup  of  coffee  before 
you  go.'  •  Hallelujah !  general,  don't  care 
if  I  do.  Shay,  genrul,  dontyherfeel 
shleepy?'  And  the  good  man  bowed  his 
head  on  the  table,  and  was  dreaming  in 
three  minutes  that  he  was  leading  a  cru- 
sade in  Chicago  and  had  converted  14,000 


gamblers.  When  he  woke  up  he  did  not 
feel  well,  and  his  host  was  facing  him, 
blowing  a  fragrant  Havana.  '  Accept  my 
carriage  home,  captain,'  he  said  as  he  led 
him  into  a  four-bit  coupe"  and  told  the 
driver  where  to  take  him.  The  captain 
did  not  preach  that  night,  and  he  has  been 
wondering  ever  since  whether  there  was 
not  something  queer  about  that  coffee." 

SARCASTIC,   BUT   SUGGESTIVE. 

"The  caterer  for  the  ball  or  dinner  at  the 
residence  of  the  hosts  often  supplies  all  the 
linen  and  table  ware,  as  well  as  the  decora- 
tions and  feast.  The  caterer  generally  has 
a  large  supply  of  the  articles  needed,  from 
a  dozen  salt  cellars  to  a  large  epergne, 
with  accommodation  for  a  miniature  lake 
for  live  gold  fish  to  disport  in,  and  reaps  a 
handsome  profit  from  their  hire  on  these 
occasions.  He  generally  purchases  these 
articles  at  auction,  and  keeps  them  in  fine 
condition.  He  is  chary  about  purchasing 
any  silver  or  china  with  monograms,  for 
the  obvious  reason  that  the  initial  would 
often  prove  embarrassing  to  many  hosts. 
He  does  not  object  to  the  inscription 
'  Mother,'  or  '  From  Father,'  because  that 
would  be  applicable  in  almost  every  case, 
excepting  that  of  a  bachelor.  His  bonanza 
is  silver-ware  containing  a  crest.  He  al- 
ways finds  that  such  pleases  his  hosts. 
The  caterer  takes  entire  charge  of  the  cu- 
linary arrangements  and  the  preparation 
of  the  table,  supplying  the  servants  and 
superintending  the  service  as  well.  He 
transports  his  wares  in  specially  constructed 
boxes,  takes  his  gripsack,  prepared  for  any 
change  in  the  weather,  and  the  business  is 
so  well  systematized  that  there  are  ordi- 
narily no  hitches  or  mistakes.  Often  the 
family  table  ware,  linen  and  china  are  not 
used." 


STEWARDING  AND  CATERING  ON  A  GRAND  SCALE. 


STEWARDING    AT     HARVARD     UNIVERSITY. 

The  boarding  of  the  Harvard  students 
is  managed  on  the  co-operative  plan  by  a 
"  Harvard  Dining  Association,"  which  is 
like  the  "house  committee"  of  many  clubs, 
but  on  a  larger  basis,  the  different  classes 
and  schools  being  represented  on  the 
«'  Board  of  Directors,"  which  is  composed 
of  fifteen  students  and  is  the  executive 
body  which  engages  the  steward,  second 
steward  and  head  waiter. 

This  "house  committee"  of  fifteen, 
standing  in  the  position  of  the  hotel-keeper, 
has  the  task  to  perform  of  setting  a  good 
table  at  the  lowest  possible  rate,  the  stu- 
dents under  this  arrangement  being  fur- 
nished with  board  at  its  actual  cost,  and 
the  price  consequently  flunctuates  accord- 
ing to  the  running  expenses  from  $3-9o  to 
$4.20  a  week.  The  menu  of  the  three 
meals  is : 

BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal.  Cracked  Wheat. 

Fried  Cod. 

Mutton  Chops.  Eggs. 

Lyonaise  Potatoes. 

Griddle  Cakes.    Hot  Rolls.    Toast.    Coffee.    Tea. 


LUNCH. 

Chicken    Soup. 

Cold  Corned  Beef.  Cold  Ham. 

Oatmeal.         Cracked  Wheat 
Pumpkin  Pie.     Mino-i  Pie.    Cheese. 


Cocoa. 


DINNER. 
[Samplf,  changed  daily.] 

SOUP. 
Macaroni. 


Beef. 


FISH. 

Boiled  Cod. 

ROAST. 
Chicken. 


Lamb. 


ENTR  EKS. 

Beef  a  la  mode. 

VEGETABLES. 

Boiled  potatoes.  Mashed  Potatoes. 

Lima  Beans.    Turnips.     Hominy. 

DESSERT. 

Steamed  Apple  Pudding. 
Apples.  Oranges. 


(158) 


In  addition  to  the  regular  table  d'hote 
there  is  an  order  list  a  la  carte,  comprising 
all  the  luxuries  of  a  first-class  restaurant. 
From  this  anything  will  be  served  at  any 
meal  for  a  reasonable  extra  charge;  all  the 
bills  are  settled  thrice  a  year  at  the  conclu- 
sion of  each  term.  Th^  order  list  is  a  most 
wise  provision,  for,  while  it  enables  one  to 
entertain  a  friend  in  an  eminently  satis- 
factory manner,  it  causes  the  luxuriously 
inclined  to  lower  the  price  of  living  to  the 
more  economical — in  other  words,  if  the 
restaurant  makes  a  pro.'it  it  lessens  the 
price  of  board  to  all. 

Breakfast  is  served  from  7.30  to  8.30, 
with  a  table  for  orders  only  until  10  a.  m. ; 
lunch  occupies  the  hour  between  12.30  and 
1.30,  and  the  dinner  hour  is  from  4.30  to 
5.30  in  winter  and  half  an  hour  later  in 
summer.  It  will  be  observed  that  the  late- 
ness of  the  dinner  hour  gives  the  college 
athletes  a  fine  hygienic  opportunity  to 
exercise  on  something  other  than  a  full 
stomach. 

The  salaried  officers  are  the  steward, 
assistant  steward  and  headwaiter.  Under 
them  are  eight  cooks,  sixty  waiters  and 
twenty-five  other  servants.  The  number 
of  members  at  present,  six  hundred  and 
sixty.  As  might  be  imagined  that  number 
of  healthy  men  are  heartier  eaters  than  the 
average  patrons — and  matrons — of  hotels. 
There  are  stowed  away  daily  in  the  cavern- 
ous aggregate  collegiate  maw  one  hundred 
and  seventy  gallons  of  milk  and  five  bush- 
els of  apples,  besides  about  three  hundred 
pies.  It  is  humiliating  to  confess  that  all 
the  wealth  of  Cambridge  intellect  cannot 
educate  the  American  youth  above  pie, 
but  the  fac4  must  remain. 

The  steward  and  auditor  make  their 
statements  every  two  months.  The  ap- 
pended copy  of  these  sheets  for  the  months 
of  January  and  February  will  give  per- 
haps a  clearer  insight  than  mere  words 
into  the  financial  workings  of  this  emi- 
nently succesful  co-operative  organization: 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


159 


DR. 

Bills  paid  (less  water  bill)  ............  $19,675.61 

Water  charge   .......................        48.87 

Interest  on  debt  ..................  ......      539-42 

Interest  on  advances  ...................      i'3-77 

Reduction  of  debt  ......................      333-34 

Insurance  ..............................        50.00 

Crockery  assessment  ..................      200.40 

Allowance  for  absence,  etc  ............      544-2° 

Stock  on  hand  (Jan.  i)  .................  2,300.59 

$24,155.00 
CR. 
Stock  on  hand  (March  :)  ..............  $^,533.57 

Sale  of  grease  ..........................      317-9' 

"      swill  ...........................       68.87 

bones  ...........................        67.86 

"      cold  food,  etc  ..................      198.96 

Gas  and  coal  for  Saunders"  Theatre...        53-95 
Extras  ordered  ........................    1,519.95 

Crockery  charged  to  surplus  ...........        57-71 

Balance  ...............................  i9i337-32 

$24,155.90 

Dividing  this  balance  of  $19,337.32  by 
5,010,  the  number  of  weeks,  or  students, 
gives  $3.86;  adding  head  money,  10  cents, 
gives  $3  96,  or  say  $4.00  as  the  cost  of 
board  during  January  and  February.  An 
analysis  of  this  charge  of  $3.96  gives  the 

following  result: 

Jan.  and  Feb.  Per  week. 

Provisions  ................  $12,413.30  $2.47  J£ 

Service  .....................  3.547-91  7* 

Coal  .......................      400.48  08 

Water  ......................       48.57  01 

Gas  ........................      365.30  Vj% 

Breakage  ...................      200.40  04 

Interest  ....................        653.19  13% 

Reduction  of  debt  ..........      333-34  07 

Repairs  ....................      211.21  04 

Allowance  for  absence  .....      544-20  >oj£ 

Miscellaneous  ..............      219.42  04 


$19,337-32        $3-86 
Head  money  ........................       10 


The  head  money,  let  me  briefly  explain, 
is  given  to  the  steward  when  the  average 
weekly  amount  is  small — as  it  enlarges  the 
head  money  is  reduced — virtually  giving 
him  a  bonus  for  economy. 

STEWARDING   AT    VASSAR    COLLEGE. 

"  We  have  no  patience  with  those  jour- 
nals which  indulge  in  ungallant  remarks 
and  ribald  laughter  over  the  annual  state- 
ment of  what  the  sweet  Vassar  girls  have 
been  eating  during  the  school  year.  The 
figures  presented  by  the  board  of  trustees 
grow  more  and  more  serious  year  by  year, 
and  the  statistics  for  1886-87,  now  at  hand, 
are  simply  appalling.  To  begin  with,  the 
dear,  delicate  creatures  consumed  230  bar- 
rels of  flour.  Their  small  white  teeth 


opened  and  closed  upon  100,000  buckwheat 
cakes,  10,000  bananas,  30,000  oranges  and 
lemons,  and  32,000  clams.  They  further 
diminished  the  resources  of  the  country  by 
swallowing  84,000  pounds  of  fresh  meats, 
8,000  pounds  of  smoked  meais,  nearly  5,000 
pounds  of  turkeys,  over  4,000  pounds  of 
chickens,  nearly  as  many  of  fish,  141  gal- 
lons of  oysters,  14,000  pounds  of  butter, 
95,000  quarts  of  milk,  25,000  pounds  of 
sugar  (whence  their  unusual  sweetness), 
and  1,000  bushels  of  potatoes.  Add  to  this 
tea  and  coffee,  condiments,  fruits,  vege- 
tables, sweet- meats,  and  surreptitious 
luncheons,  and  the  total  becomes  positively 
colossal.  If  this  rate  of  consumptions 
increases,  or  even  continues,  it  will  be 
expedient  to  have  the  daily  food  purchases 
of  Vassar  included  in  the  market  reports 
of  the  country  for  the  sake  of  their  effect 
upon  prices." 

STEWARDING    AT   WINDSOR    CASTLE. 

"The  holidays  bring  a  wealth  of  work  for 
the  cooks  at  Windsor.  The  kitchen,  on 
the  north  side  of  the  castle,  is  fitted  elabo- 
rately enough  to  delight  the  heart  even  of 
a  Careme.  The  apartment  is  nearly  fifty 
feet  in  height,  and  has  an  enormous  fire  at 
either  end,  with  a  system  of  spits  after  the 
fashion  of  university  kitchens.  As  an 
ordinary  staff  there  are  the  chef  de  cuisine, 
two  master  cooks,  two  yeomen  of  the 
month,  two  roasting  cooks,  two  larderers, 
five  scourers,  one  steam  man  and  three 
kitchen  maids,  besides  apprentices  and 
serving  men.  The  number  of  dinners 
that  can  be  cooked  in  this  kitchen  is 
simply  marvelous.  Every  detail  of  the 
arrangements  is  worked  out  with  the 
greatest  of  care,  the  dishes  being  handed 
straight  to  the  footmen  from  the  cooks, 
and  by  them  conveyed  to  the  various 
rooms." 

STEWARDING    AT    A    PENITENTIARY. 

"  The  provisions  required  for  the  dinner 
given,  the  convicts  at  Joliet,  111.,  on 
Thanksgiving  were  1,700  pounds  of 
dressed  turkey,  60  gallons  of  turkey  dress- 


160 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


Ing,  80  gallons  of  gravy,  30  bushels  of 
potatoes,  6  barrels  ot  flour,  5  bushels  of 
onions.  200  gallons  of  coffee,  16  gallons  of 
milk,  85  pounds  of  sugar,  40  pounds  of 
English  currants,  120  pounds  of  butter,  30 
gallons  of  syrup,  15  barrels  of  apples,  3,200 
cigars.  Each  of  the  married  gaurds  was 
given  a  turkey." 

STEAMSHIP    STEWARDING. 

"The  Atlantic  steamship  City  of  New 
York  is  commanded  by  Capt.  Frederick 
Watkins,  and  his  right  hand  man,  the  chief 
officer,  is  S.  F.  Barff.  To  help  these  two 
to  navigate  the  ship  six  deck  officers  are 
provided,  and  three  of  them  are  constantly 
on  deck  when  at  sea.  In  addition  to  these, 
in  what  may  be  called  the  department  of 
seamen,  there  is  a  boatswain  and  his  mate 
and  36  sailors,  of  whom  12  men  are  called 
quartermasters,  who  are  detailed  to  steer 
the  ship  and  stand  on  lookout. 

"  Mr.  McLeod,  the  chief  steward,  is  as- 
sisted by  Mr.  Findlow,  formerly  steward  of 
Jay  Gould's  yacht  Atalanta,  and  by  146 
other  people,  of  whom  seven  are  women 
and  eight  are  boys  in  their  teens,  called 
bell  boys.  Mrs.  Nichol  is  the  chief  stew- 
ardess, and  four  women  help  her  in  the 
first  cabin.  The  second  cabin  and  the 
steerage  have  one  stewardess  each.  Of 
the  other  people  in  this  department  36  are 
table  waiters,  16  are  bedroom  stewards 
and  attend  to  keeping  staterooms  in  order, 
10  are  occupied  in  the  pantry,  16  are  cooks, 
6  are  porters,  5  are  messroom  stewards 
and  wait  on  the  officers,  14  are  in  the 
second  cabin,  16  are  in  the  steerage,  4  are 
bakers,  three  are  butchers,  and  5  are  store- 
keepers, and  this  term  includes  the  barten- 
ders and  the  men  in  immediate  charge  of 
the  rooms  where  provisions,  etc.,  are  kept. 

"  There  is  also  a  ship's  carpenter,  who  is 
generally  as  handy  aloft  as  with  the  saw 
and  adze.  In  charge  of  the  machinery  are 
a  chief  engineer,  Mr.  McDaugall,  and  27 
assistant  engineers,  besides  2  electricians 
and  their  3  assistants,  who  look  after  the 
electric  lights;  3  donkey  men,  31  lead- 
Ing  firemen,  54  firemen,  63  trimmers,  and 


one  blacksmith.  The  donkey  men  are 
foremen  in  charge  of  the  boilers;  the 
leading  firemen  are  also  called  greasers, 
and  it  is  their  duty  to  keep  the  machinery 
oiled  and  cleaned.  The  54  firemen  shovel 
coal  into  the  furnaces  and  se  that  it  is 
spread  just  right  to  burn  as  hot  as  possible, 
and  when  the  furnace  needs  cleaning  they 
do  the  work.  The  trimmers  shovel  the  coal 
from  the  bunkers  into  the  stoke  hole. 

"While  this  completes  the  list  of  the 
three  great  departments  into  which  a  ship's 
company  is  divided,  there  is  yet  a  purser, 
who  is  a  keeper  of  accounts,  besides 
haying  a  lot  of  other  important  duties  to 
attend  to,  and  the  ship's  surgeon,  who  has 
one  assistant.  The  number  of  stewards 
carried  varies  with  the  passenger  traffic. 
The  total  number  of  crew  of  the  City  of 
New  York  when  she  sailed  was,  according 
to  the  purser,  394. 

"  Few  persons  are  aware  of  the  extensive 
nature  of  the  victualling  on  board  the 
great  ocean  steamers.  Each  vessel  is  provi- 
sioned as  follows  for  the  round  voyage  for 
passengers  and  crew:  3,500  Ibs.  of  butter, 
3,000  hams,  1,600  Ibs.  of  biscuits,  exclusive 
of  those  supplied  for  the  crew;  8,000  Ibs.  of 
grapes,  almonds,  figs,  and  other  dessert 
fruits;  1,500  Ibs.  of  jams  and  jellies;  tinned 
meats,  6,000  Ibs.;  dried  beans,  3,000  Ibs.; 
rice,  3,000  Ibs. ;  onions,  5,000  Ibs. ;  potatoes, 
40  tons;  flour,  300  barrels;  and  eggs,  1,200 
dozen.  Fresh  vegetables,  dead  meat  and 
live  bullocks,  sheep,  pigs,  geese,  turkeys, 
ducks,  fowls,  fish,  and  casual  game  are 
generally  supplied  at  each  port,  so  that 
It  is  difficult  to  estimate  them.  Probably 
two  dozen  bullocks  and  60  sheep  would  be 
a  fair  average  for  the  whole  voyage,  and 
the  rest  may  be  inferred  in  proportion. 
During  the  summer  months,  when  travell- 
ing is  heavy,  25  fowls  are  often  used  in 
soup  for  a  single  dinner. 

"  The  bar  on  an  ocean  vessel  is  one  of 
the  most  profitable  features  of  the  ship, 
and  it  has  been  said  that  $5,000  has  fre- 
quently been  cleared  on  one  voyage  by  a 
first-class  steamer  in  the  busy  season.  The 
possibilities  in  this  direction  may  be  judged 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


161 


from  the  fact  that  the  Etruria  puts  on 
board  at  Liverpool  for  the  round  voyage 
1,100  bottles  of  champagne,  850  bottles  of 
claret,  6,000  bottles  of  ale,  2,500  bottles  of 
porter,  4,500  bottles  of  mineral  water  and 
650  bottles  of  various  spirits,  white  the 
annual  consumption  of  the  Cunard  Line  is 
as  follows:  8,030  quarts  and  17,613  pints  of 
champagne,  13,941  quarts  and  7,310  pints  of 
claret,  with  9,200  bottles  of  other  wines, 
489,344  bottles  of  ale  and  porter,  174,921 
bottles  of  mineral  waters,  34,000  bottles  of 
spirits,  34,360  pounds  of  tobacco,  63,340 
cigars  and  56,875  cigarettes. 

THE    PURCHASING    STEWARD   OF   A    LARGE 
HOTEL. 

The  following  was  one  day's  marketing, 
bought  before  and  about  sunrise,  for  the 
Fifth  Avenue  Hotel,  New  York;  a  fair 
example  of  the  daily  purchases,  making 
allowance  for  fluctuations  of  business  at 
different  seasons: 

8  loins  beef. 

4  ribs  beef. 

2  hips  beef. 

1  rump  corned  beef. 
7  calves'  heads. 

88  pounds  veal. 

2  old  turkeys. 

20  young  turkeys. 

57  pounds  chickens. 

55  pounds  lobsters. 

23  pounds  bluefish. 

55  pounds  Spanish  mackerel. 

10  barrels  potatoes. 

2  barrels  sweet  potatoes. 

3  barrels  cabbage. 

i  Yt  barrels  spinach. 

i  barrel  cooking  apples. 

93  pounds  grapes. 

4  legs  mutton. 

6  mutton  racks. 
12  racks  lamb. 

1  lamb. 

40  kidneys. 

7  doz.  sweetbreads. 

2  pairs  mongrel  ducks 
2  doz.  woodcocks. 

2  doz.  partridges. 


20  pounds  sea  bass. 

29  pounds  soles. 

28  pounds  salmon. 

\%  bags  Lima  beans. 

i  bushel  beets. 

4  boxes  tomatoes. 

325  ears  corn. 

4^  doz.  bunches  celery.  * 

i  doz.  egg  plants. 

1  dozen  cucumbers. 

2  boxes  lemons. 

Parsley,  mint  and  soup  vegetables. 

All  supplies  brought  to  basement  and 
carefully  weighed  before  putting  away. 
Groceries  bought  monthly,  except  coffee 
and  tea  which  are  procured  whenever  an 
opportunity  for  a  good  bargain  is  offered. 

THE    AMERICAN     GAME     LIST. 

For  nearly  thirty  years  an  annual  game 
dinner  has  been  given  by  Mr.  John  B. 
Drake,  proprietor  of  the  Grand  Pacific 
Hotel,  Chicago.  The  number  of  guests  is 
usually  500,  and  they  are  attended  at  table 
by  100  waiters.  For  weeks  and  even 
months  before  the  event  measures  are  put 
in  operation  to  get  together  every  possible 
species  of  game,  the  result  being  as  is 
shown  in  the  subjoined  bill  of  fare,  which 
is  a  very  good  game  list  for  stewards  and 
restaurateurs  to  consult  for  available  kinds. 
This  occurred  a  few  years  back,  when  elk 
and  buffalo  were  still  obtainable;  the  list  is 
slightly  more  voluminous  than  more  re- 
cent ones,  and  the  more  useful  for  refer- 
ence to  so  many  kinds. 

"To  name  the  people  present  would  be 
only  to  give  a  list  of  the  most  prominent 
and  the  wealthiest  of  Chicago's  citizens 
and  of  the  distinguished  guests  now  stop- 
ping at  this  hotel:" 


Blue  Point  Oysters  in  Shell 

SOUP. 
Consomm6  de  Vollaile  au  Praire          Game 


FISH. 


Broiled  Whitefish  Baked  Red  Snappei 

BOILED. 

Ham  of  Black  Rear        Wild  Turkey 

Leg  of  Mountain  *heep        Buffalo  Tongue. 

Venison  Tongue 


162 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


ROAST, 
Saddle  of  Mountain  sheep    Leg  of  Black  Tail  Deer 

Loin  of  Buffa  o          Leg  of  Elk 

Saddle  of  Antelope        Coon        Opossum 

Loin  of  Venison      Jack  Rabbit       Mountain  Bison 

Wild  Turkey    Pin  Tail  Grouse    Ruffled  Grouse 

Virginia  Partridge        Golden  Plover 

American  Woodcock  Killdeer  Plover 

Sand  Hill  Crane       Wilson  Snipe       Canada  Goose 

Mallard  Duck    Pin  Tail  Duck    Gadwall  Duck 

American  Widgeon      Blue-winged  Teal 

Green-winged  Teal      Shoveler  Duck    Wood  Duck 

•  Scaup  Duck    Red  Head  Duck    Ruddy  Duck 

vVoodchuck        Canvas-back  Duck 

Buffle-Head  Duck    Cormorant  Duck    Dusky  Duck 

Brant      Quail      Red  Bill  Merganser  Duck 

Carolina  Dove    Ring-necked  Duck 

Hooded  Merganser  Duck       Spruce  Grouse 

American  Coot      Long  Tail  Duck      Partridge 

Red-necked  Grebe       Prairie  Chicken       Pheasant 

Butter-Ball  Duck 


HUNTERS  HOME  ON  THE  RANCH. 


BROILED. 
Red-winged  Starling        Reed  Bird        Gray  Snipe 

Blue- winged  Teal        Fox  Squirrel 

Gray  Squirrel      Black  Squirrel      Grav  Rabbit 

Jack  Snipe        Golden  Plover        Partridge      Quail 

Least  Sandpiper        Butter-Ball  Duck 
Prairie  Chicken        Pheasant        Dunlin  Sandpiper 

Baked  Sweet  Potatoes        Mash  d  Potatoes 

Sweet  Corn     Green  Peas    Celery    Plain  Potatoes 

Stewed  Tomatoes 


ORNAMENTAL  DISHES. 
Pyramid  of  Game,  en  Bellevue 

Red-winged  Starling,  au  Natural 
Aspic  of  Birds,  a  la  Royale 

Pattie  of  Liver,  sur  Socle 

Boned  Quail  in  Plumage 
Galantine  of  Turkey,  with  Jelly 

Pin -Tail  Grouse,  in.  Feathers 

Boned  Snipe,  with  Truffles 
Shrimp   Salad 

THE  TWO  PETS. 


ENTREES. 
Buffalo  Steak,   Mushroom  Sauce 

Stuffed  Venison,  Hunter  Style 
Salmi  of  Grouse,  Port  Wine  Sauce 

Squirrel,  Braise,  Sauce  Diable 
Deer's  Tongues,  Boule,  Caper  Sauce 

Frogs,  fried,  Camp  Style 

Pheasant,  larded,  aux  Champignons 

English  Hare,  with  Dumplings 

Charlotte  Russe         Chocolate  Eclairs 

Chocolate  a  la  Crfime 

Chantilly  Cream,  a  la  Printaniere 

Bonbons,  assorted    Fancy  Cake   Nougat  Pyramids 

SONG. 

"The   Wanderer's  Return,"         ...         Abt. 
By  the  Blaney  Quartette. 

Apples    Oranges    Pears    California  Grapes 

Concord  Grapes      Catawba  Grapes      Nuts      Figs 

Raisins    Vanilla  Ice  Cream    Pineapple  Sorbet 

Sage  Cheese      English  Cheese    Coffee 


"  The  Gay  Pilgrim," 


SONG. 


Mangold. 


LUNCH    FOR    5,6OO    PEOPLE. 

"  Mr.  William  H.  Somers,  proprietor  of 
the  West   Shore  restaurant  at   Syracuse, 


was  called  on  Sunday  last  to  cater  to  the 
appetites  of  5,600  hungry  travelers,  en  route 
to  the  Odd  Fellows'  meeting  at  Boston. 
They  arrived  in  detachments  of  two  to  five 
hundred  during  the  afternoon  at  intervals 
of  half  an  hour,  and  were  all  promptly 
cared  for.  A  local  paper  says  that  'Mr. 
Somers,  in  anticipation  of  the  event,  had 
ordered  the  waiters  and  cooks  all  along 
the  line  of  the  West  Shore  to  report  for 
duty  here.  He  had  225  people  under  his 
command,  and  so  perfect  were  the  arrange- 
ments that  all  moved  like  clock  work.  The 
service  of  a  hot  dinner  was  out  of  the 
question,  but  the  tables  were  neatly  spread 
with  dainty  white  cloths  and  set  with  un- 
impeachable knives,  forks  and  crockery, 
delicately  cut,  but  substantial  slices  of  cold 
meats,  together  with  the  usual  accompani- 
ment of  bread  and  butter,  besides  fruit, 
tea  and  coffee.  The  stock  of  eatables  con- 
sisted of  2,000  pounds  of  beef,  1,500  pounds 
of  chicken,  2,000  pounds  of  ham,  i,ooo 
quarts  of  milk,  2,000  loaves  of  bread,  500 
pounds  of  fresh  pork,  four  barrels  of  lamb 
tongue,  3,000  sandwiches,  and  2,000  pounds 
of  grapes.'  About  1,000  bottles  of  beer 
and  spirits  and  $125  worth  of  cigars  were 
sold." 

THE    AMERICAN    CLAM    BAKE. 

"Mr.  Sol.  Sayles,  the  well-known  butcher 
of  Sixth  avenue,  gave  his  annual  clam  bake 
to  his  sixty  odd  employe's  at  his  country 
seat,  Eleanor  Villa,  beautifully  situated  at 
Long  View,  on  the  Raritan  River,  N.  J., 
on  Sunday  afternoon.  A  special  train  of  the 
New  Jersey  Central  Railroad  conveyed  the 
guests,  who  numbered,  including  the  em- 
ploye's, no  persons,  to  Plainfield,  the  near- 
est station,  where  they  were  met  by  car- 
riages in  waiting  and  conveyed  over  a  de- 
lightful road  to  the  grove  in  which  the  feast 
was  prepared  under  the  guiding  hands  of  J. 
C.  Shields,  who,  as  the  steward  of  the  Glen 
Island  restaurants  for  several  seasons,  has 
justly  earned  a  reputation  as  a  constructor 
of  toothsome  Rhode  Island  clambakes.  At 
4  o'clock  the  feast  was  ready,  and  ample 
justice  was  done  to  it  under  the  appetizing 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


163 


zest  imparted  by  the  long  drive  in  the  brac- 
ing air.  The  bake  was  composed  of  one 
thousand  hard  and^soft  clame,  50  lobsters, 
150  ears  of  corn,  50  bluefish,  50  white  bass, 
2  bushels  of  white  potatoes,  2  buseels  of 
sweet  potatoes,  75  spring  chickens,  150 
hard  crabs,  100  pounds  of  tripe  and  75 
watermelons.  Flanking  this  steaming 
pyramid  were  200  bottles  of  iced  cham- 
pagne. When  the  feast  was  concluded 
Patch  photographed  the  entire  group  on 
the  lawn." 

HOW    IT    IS    DONE. 

"  A  hole,  some  four  feet  deep,  is  dug  in 
the  ground,  and  smooth  flat  stones  are 
laid  on  the  bottom ;  on  these  a  fire  of  wood 
is  kindled,  which  is  kept  up  half  a  day  or 
more,  until  the  stones  are  of  a  red  heat. 
Then  several  bushels  of  clams  in  the  shell 
are  poured  over  the  stones,  and  on  these 
are  laid  a  layer  of  seaweed.  Indian  corn 
in  the  ear  is  placed,  in  quantity  propotion- 
ate  to  the  number  of  bushels  of  clams, 
upon  this;  then  follows  another  layer  of 
seaweed,  and  more  clams,  then  a  few  dozen 
chickens  prepared  for  cooking;  then 
another  layer  of  seaweed  and  more  clams ; 
potatoes  in  their  jackets  come  next, 
although  some  put  the  potatoes  in  an 
anterior  stratum,  and  more  clams.  Any 
game  in  season  may  be  added,  and  the  top 
layer  is  always  seaweed,  preceded  by 
more  clams.  In  Rhode  Island  turkeys 
are  deemed  the  essential  layer  late  in  the 
autumn.  The  heat  evolved  from  the 
stones  and  retained  from  the  fire  in  the 
sides  of  the  pit,  and  the  steam  rising  from 
the  seaweed,  serve  to  slowly  and  thor- 
oughly cook  each  and  every  layer  in  about 
two  hours,  and  then  they  are  deftly  taken 
out  and  served  on  long  tables,  with  much 
care  and  neatness.  The  choicest  wines 
accompany  the  feast,  although  cider  is  the 
common  drink  of  the  people.  The  service 
is  scarcely  in  regular  courses,  as  the  tooth- 
someness  of  the  repast  lies  in  the  fact  that 
the  juices  are  so  assimilated  and  interpene- 
trated by  the  mode  of  cooking  that  the 
guests  desire  not  to  stand  upon  the  order 


of  their  eating,  but  take  in  thankfulness 
that  which  is  set  before  them,  with  one 
proviso — that  the  supply  of  clams  be 
endless." 

THE    AMERICAN   BARBECUE. 

It  is  commonly  called  roasting  oxen  or 
other  animals  whole;  the  word  itself  is 
French  barb-a-que — from  head  to  tail — but 
in  practice  so  many  disappointments  occur 
through  the  meat  coming  from  the  bars 
burnt  to  a  coal  on  the  outside  and  too  raw 
to  be  eaten  inside,  that  those  who  have  had 
experience  take  care  to  roast  only  quarters 
or  sides.  The  way  it  is  done  is  the  same 
in  the  beginning  as  the  clam  bake;  a  trench 
is  dug  in  the  ground  and  a  wood  fire  made 
in  it.  When  it  has  burned  about  six  hours 
and  the  pit  bottom  is  covered  with  a  bed 
of  glowing  coals  and  red  hot  rocks,  instead 
of  the  covering  up  in  sea  weed  as  at  the 
clam  bake,  some  bars  of  iron  are  laid  across 
the  pit,  making  a  monster  grid-iron.  Per- 
haps the  iron  can  be  obtained  from  the 
village  blacksmith,  or  some  old  rails  from 
the  railroad,  or  two  or  three  rails  and  small 
iron  for  cross-bars.  Whole  sheep  and 
lambs  can  be  roasted  very  well  over  such 
a  bed  of  coals,  also  small  pigs,  chickens, 
'possums,  turkeys  and  such  small  animals, 
but  oxen  are  better  cut  in  quarters,  as  in 
that  case  it  does  not  take  more  than  an 
hour  or  two  to  cook  them  sufficiently.  Oc- 
casions requiring  a  resort  to  the  barbecue 
are  constantly  arising,  either  political  or 
otherwise,  for  anniversaries,  camp  meet- 
ings, celebrations  of  various  descriptions, 
and  it  only  needs  the  trench  to  be  dug  the 
longer  to  give  cooking  facilities  in  the 
meat  line  to  an  indefinite  extent ;  the  bread 
is  easily  baked  at  a  distance  and  hauled  to 
the  spot.  But  the  great  trouble  experienced 
generally  is  to  get  the  provisions  divided 
among  the  people  after  the  cooking;  if  this 
is  not  well  managed  two  or  three  persons 
will  drag  a  quarter  of  beef  from  the  fire 
into  the  dust  of  the  ground,  hack  off  their 
few  slices  and  leave  the  rest  in  such  a  con- 
dition that  it  is  almost  if  not  quite  lost. 
Some  well  intended  barbecues  for  army 


164 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


reunions  and  monument  raisings  and  the 
like  have  become  hideous  failures  through 
such  want  of  management.  There  must 
be  a  fence  around  the  barbecue  fire  and 
another  around  the  benches  to  eat  from, 
and  proper  arrangements  made  for  cutting 
up  and  passing  around  the  meat  after  it  is 
cooked,  if  suffering  to  the  invited  multitude 
and  life-long  reproach  to  the  providers  are 
to  be  averted. 

THE    IMPROVED    BARBECUE. 

Barbecues  have  taken  place  in  late  years 
where  oxen  were  actually  roasted  whole  and 
made  superior  as  roasted  meat  to  the  prod- 
uct of  city  kitchens  by  fastening  the  entire 
carcasses  on  iron  spits  on  frames  with  band- 
wheel  fixtures,  and  revolving  them  horizon- 
tally by  means  of  a  small  portable  steam 
engine  over  the  heated  pits  of  coals  until 
done.  In  one  case  recorded  when  the  ox 
was  considered  sufficiently  done  it  was 
moved  by  means  of  a  crane  to  a  table  where 
six  skillful  carvers  were  ready  with  extra 
large  knives  and  forks,  and  cut  it  up  and 
distributed  it  in  a  proper  manner. 

THE    PRIMITIVE    BARBECUE. 

•'Messrs.  Cody  and  Salsbury,  of  the 
American  Wild  West  Show,  invited  a  num- 
ber of  their  friends  recently  to  an  Indian 
4  rib-roast '  breakfast,  at  which  the  principal 
item  that  figured  upon  the  'bill  of  rations' 
consisted  of  ribs  of  beef  roasted,  served, 
and  partaken  of  in  the  primitive  Indian 
style  as  follows:  A  hole  is  dug  in  the 
ground,  a  wood- fire  lighted  therein,  and 
over  this  is  suspended  from  a  tripod  the 
huge  sides  of  beef ;  these  are  kept  moving 
by  a  squaw  or  scout  for  three-quarters  of 
an  hour,  at  the  end  of  which  time  the  joint 
is  sufficiently  done,  and  resembles  a  bunch 
of  '  devilled  bones.'  Each  '  brave '  squatted 
upon  the  ground  on  a  carpet  of  loose  straw 
was  provided  with  a  sharp  stake  stuck  into 
the  earth  in  front  of  him,  and  a  goodly  por- 
tion of  the  roasted  ribs,  which,  when  not 
engaged  in  biting  the  meat  off  the  bone 
held  in  h  s  hands,  he  stuck  on  to  the  sharp 
stake,  which  thus  took  the  place  of  a  plate. 


He  then  licked  his  fingers  clean,  and  wiped 
them  dry  on  his  hair.  The  majority  of  the 
guests  adopted  the  Indian  manner  of  eating 
the  meat — bar  the  licking-finger  perform- 
ance, as  a  substitute  for  which  table-napkins, 
etc.,  were  provided.  The  meat  was  said  to 
be  so  toothsome,  that  an  eminent  English 
legislator  present  expressed  his  opinion 
thereon  to  the  effect  that '  civilization  was 
a  well-intentioned  mistake.'  The  rest  of 
the  menu  was  American,  viz.,  grub-steak, 
salmon,  roast-beef,  roast-mutton,  ham, 
tongue,  stewed  chicken,  lobster  salad, 
American  hominy  and  milk,  corn,  potatoes, 
cocoanut-pie,  apple-pie,\Vild  West  pudding, 
American  pop-corn  and  peanuts,  which, 
with  other  etceteras,  ended  this  unusual 
form  of  entertainment." 

AN    ELECTRIC   LIGHTED   BARBECUE. 

"Over  four  thousand  persons,  from  the 
neighborhoods  and  towns  of  both  High 
and  Low  Harrogate,  assembled  and  took 
part  in  the  proceedings,  which  were,  from 
beginning  to  end,  conducted  in  a  successful 
manner.  To  commence  with,  a  splendid 
red  and  white  four-year-old  ox  was  pur- 
chased by  Mr.  Samson  Fox,  and  fed  by  Mr. 
Stephen  Bradley  in  a  field  adjoining  his 
residence.  Here  it  became  an  object  of  much 
curiosity  and  comment  amongst  the  town- 
folks,  who  watched  it  graze  with  eager  in- 
terest in  anticipation  of  roast  beef  ad  libitum 
in  the  near  future.  Upon  the  eventful  day, 
Mr.  M.  Church,  chef  at  the  Queen  Hotel, 
superintended  the  cookery  arrangements, 
and  succeeded  to  perfection;  for,  as  Mr. 
Fox  (the  spirited  gentleman  who  liberally 
came  forward  to  defray  all  expenses)  after- 
wards said,  '  the  ox  had  been  as  well  roasted 
as  though  it  had  been  done  in  separate 
pieces.' 

The  animal  was  slaughtered,  dressed,  and 
duly  fixed  upon  the  spit  of  solid  iron,  re- 
volved by  steam  power  at  the  rate  of  about 
three  limes  a  minute.  Two  huge  fires  were 
employed — one  stationary,  and  the  other 
movable.  A  barricade  was  erected  around 
the  ox,  and,  although  it  was  not  ultimately 
called  into  use,  a  suitable  covering  was 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


165 


provided  to  guard  against  inauspicious 
weather.  A  powerful  dynamo  illuminated 
the  whole  scene  with  the  electric  light  dur- 
ing the  hours  of  dusk  and  night,  and  sounds 
of  revelry  (music  and  dancing)  contributed 
to  the  enjoyment  of  all,  whilst  the  ox  was 
kept  constantly  revolving  throughout  the 
night. 

At  noon  on  TuesJay,  the  2ist  June,  the 
cutting  up  and  serving  out  of  the  animal 
was  inaugurated  by  the  committee,  .who 
mounted  a  wagon  placed  alongside  of  the 
roasted  ox  on  its  spit.  Five  carvers  were 
told  off,  and  each  one  received  a  huge 
carving  knife  and  fork,  specially  made  for 
the  occasion.  After  a  brief  but  appropriate 
speech  from  Mr.  Fox,  three  cheers  were 
given  and  each  carver  made  a  primary  in- 
cision; and  then  followed  up  quickly  the 
division,  presumably  along  the  principal 
lines  of  the  six-and-thirty  usual  'joints,' 
and  the  slicing  off  of  the  tit-bits. 

About  4,000  pieces  of  meat,  buns,  and 
tickets  for  beer  were  rapidly  distributed 
amongst  the  guests  ranged  around  the 
4  festive  board,'  and  as  daylight  waned  the 
dynamo  once  more  shone  forth  upon  a 
scene  of  innocent  revelry,  'where  all  went 
merry  as  a  marriage  bell.' " 

HOW   AN   OX    WAS    BOILED    WHOLE. 

"A  correspondent  of  the  Times  mentions 
an  experiment,  rare,  if  not  unprecedented, 
which  was  tried  on  Jubilee  Day  at  Liss,  a 
village  on  the  London  and  South- Western 
Railway  in  Hampshire.  It  consisted  in 
boiling  a  bullock  whole,  in  addition  to  one 
roasted  the  evening  before.  A  hole,  dug 
in  the  ground,  was  built  over  with  bricks; 
into  the  latter  was  built  a  tank,  and  into  the 
tank  was  lowered  the  carcase,  placed  within 
a  case  formed  by  iron  bars,  to  which  chains 
were  attached.  Pulleys  from  a  scaffold  im- 
mediately above  raised  and  lowered  the  ox, 
of  which  the  head  and  carcase  were  sewn 
up  separately  in  strong  canvas.  Carrots 
were  boiled  with  it,  and  potatoes  enclosed 
in  bags,  making  gallons  of  rich  soup.  At 
5:30  p.  m.  the  carcase,  which  had  been 
boiled  about  seven  hours,  was  raised  from 


the  tank;  two  bands  playing  '  God  save  the 
Queen  '  and  'Rule  Brittannia'  on  the  scaf- 
folding above.  Tne  meat  was  pronounced 
excellent,  and  was  certainly  well  cooked." 

THE    NUMBER,     WEIGHTS     AND     PRICE — A 
POUND   TO   A    PERSON. 

"  The  energetic  proprietor  of  the  White 
Horse  Hotel,  Romsey,  and  the  Tregonwell 
Arms,  at  Bournemouth,  recently  carried 
out  a  large  job  in  the  catering  line.  On  the 
occasion  of  the  great  Liberal  F£te  at  Tem- 
plecombe,  on  the  ist  inst.,  he  was  entrusted 
with  the  purveying  for  the  Bournemouth 
Division,  consisting  of  some  3,000  persons, 
each  one  of  whom  was  to  be  supplied  with 
8  oz.  meat,  8  oz.  bread,  and  2  oz.  cheese,  at 
is.  6d.  (36c.)  per  head.  Two  tents  were 
provided,  and  tables  arranged  to  seat  350 
and  550  at  a  time  respectively;  the  former 
was  filled  four  times,  and  the  latter  thrice 
in  succession,  and  the  whole  of  this  large 
assemblage  was  efficiently  attended  to  by  a 
staff  of  seventy  waiters,  carvers,  etc.;  1,525 
Ibs.  of  cooked  beef,  mutton,  chicken,  and 
ham,  1,525  Ibs.  of  bread,  and  6,100  oz.  of 
cheese  were  consumed,  the  whole  of  the 
viands  being  cut  up  into  portions  on  the 
day  of  the  feast." 

THE    GOVERNMENTAL    BANQUET    TO    3,OOO 
FRENCH    MAYORS. 

"The  great  gastronomic  ffite  held  in  a 
wing  of  the  Exhibition  building  on  the 
Champ  de  Mars,  Paris,  last  month,  July 
1888  has  been  a  good  deal  discussed  in  the 
newspapers,  but  no  authentic  account  of 
the  organization  and  service  of  the  monster 
feast  has  hitherto  appeared  in  print.  We 
now  have  pleasure  in  supplying  such 
particulars  from  the  pen  of  our  valued 
collaborater  M.  Suzanne,  who,  himself  an 
eye-witness  of  the  banquet,  has  obtained 
supplementary  details  from  the  great 
catering  firm  of  Potel  and  Chabot,  who 
were  the  appointed  purveyors: 

"A  table  cT  honneur  was  reserved  at  one 
end  of  the  room  for  President  Carnot  and 
his  numerous  entourage,  composed  of  340 
persons,  and  including  members  of  the 


166 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


Government  and  the  most  notable  repre- 
sentatives of  art,  science,  industry,  and 
commerce.  The  two  services  were  also 
represented  by  officers  of  the  highest  grade 
in  uniform,  and  at  the  other  end  of  the 
room,  facing  the  President,  and  mounted 
on  a  raised  platform,  played  the  unrivalled 
band  of  the  Garde  Rdpublicaine,  whose 
melodious  strains  served  to  pleasantly 
mask  the  unavoidable  rattle  of  the  plates 
and  the  simultaneous  plying  of  3,ooo  knives 
and  forks.  Besides  the  table  cTlionneur, 
there  were  fifty-six  minor  tables  symme- 
trically arranged  in  rows  of  seven.  These 
tables  were  isolated  from  each  other  by  a 
wide  space  so  as  to  avoid  incumbrance, 
and  to  allow  free  circulations  to  the  servi- 
tors. Corresponding  to  each  row  of  seven 
tables  was  a  broad  passage  leading  to  a 
kitchen,  where  ten  cooks  were  at  work. 
Consequently  there  were  in  all  eight  kit- 
chens and  eighty  cooks  employed. 

"  Each  kitchen  was  fitted  up  with  a 
range,  a  complete  set  of  steam  cooking 
apparatus,  and  eight  or  ten  charcoal  stoves ; 
but  I  remarked  that  there  were  no  gas 
appliances  of  any  kind.  Each  table  was 
1  xid  for  fifty  persons,  and  bore  a  central 
placard,  duly  numbered,  and  indicating  the 
names  of  the  respective  provinces,  so  that 
the  representatives  of  each  could  group 
themselves  together. 

"  The  mayors,  who  had  been  previously 
supplied  with  a  'miniature  plan  of  the 
dining-saloon  containing  detailed  informa- 
tion, experienced  no  difficulty  whatever  in 
finding  the  places  allotted  to  them.  As 
the  clock  struck  seven,  the  entire  company 
were  seated,  awaiting  the  arrival  of  Presi- 
dent Carnot.  In  front  of  each  table  stood 
a  headwaiter,  whose  mission  it  was  to 
superintend  and  survey  the  service  of  the 
section  confided  to  his  charge.  In  all, 
there  were  350  waiters  on  duty. 

"  Upon  the  arrival  of  the  President  and 
his  ministers,  the  band  struck  up  the  Na- 
tional Anthem,  and  simultaneously  a  sig- 
nal given  by  M.  Lasson,  when  the  eight 
doors  leading  to  the  kitchens  were  thrown 
open  as  if  by  magic,  and  one  hundred 


"garcons"  marched  into  the  dining-room, 
each  carrying  a  tureen  of  potage  a  la  St. 
Germaine.  A  few  minutes  later,  this  body 
of  waiters  made  their  exit  with  the  empty 
tureens. 

"  After  the  soup,  according  to  French 
fashion,  "  hors  d'ceuvres  "  were  handed 
round.  The  relish  materials  consisted  of 
350  bundles  of  radishes,  75  Ibs.  of  Lyons 
sausages,  400  boxes  of  sardines,  125  Ibs.  of 
prawns,  50  Ibs.  of  oliv  s,  and  40  Ibs.  of 
butter,  in  pats.  The  soup  was  "  relieved  " 
by  1  20  dishes  of  trout  in  jelly,  with  French 
sauce,  the  latter  being  a  mayonnaise  in 
which  a  pure*e  of  lobster  coral  and  some 
whipped  cream  had  been  mixed. 

"The  hot  dishes  followed:  75  braised 
fillets  of  beef,  which  were  larded  and  garn- 
ished with  stewed  carrots,  no  fewer  than 
300  bunches  of  that  vegetable  having  been 
prepared  for  the  purpose.  The  roasted 
turkey  poults,  to  the  number  of  300  were 
also  served  hot.  To  accelerate  the  service, 
they  had  been  previously  carved  in  the 
kitchens,  and  were  brought  to  table  with 
300  bowls  of  dressed  salad;  80  galantines 
truffe'es,  and  80  pies  were  afterwards 
introduced. 

TJI-E 


Potage  St.  Gennain. 

Hors  d'CEuvres. 
Truite  a  la  Gel6e,  Sauce  Francaise. 

Filet  de  Boeuf  Parisienne. 

Galantines  de  Poulardes  Iruffees. 

Dindonneaux  Nouveaux  rdtis. 

Pates  de  Foies  Gras. 

Salade. 
Petits  Pois  a  la  Fermiere. 

Bombe  glac^e. 
Gateaux  Varies. 
Baba  au  Rhum. 

DESSERT. 

VINS. 

Mad^re  Vieux. 

Bordeaux  Grave. 

Beaune.  Champagne. 

Cafe. 

"Then  came  the  entrements:  300  dishes 
of  stewed  peas,  babas  au  rhum,  bombes 
glacees,  and  numberless  dishes  of  all  kinds 
of  pastry.  The  dessert  was  composed  of 
all  the  fruits  in  season,  such  as  straw- 
berries, cherries,  apricots,  grapes,  and 
pineapples.  There  were  also  an  infinite 
number  of  compOtes,  and  endless  pyramids 
of  biscuits  and  bonbons.  A  b  ttle  of  claret 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


167 


was  placed  before  each  guest;  but  inde- 
pendently of  that,  champagne,  madeira, 
choice  burgundy,  and  liqueurs  were  served 
with  the  second  course.  Three  thousand 
seven  hundred  bottles  of  wine  were  con- 
sumed at  this  gigantic  banquet.  The  3,000 
cups  of  coffee  distributed  after  the  repast 
were  also  prepared  by  the  contractors,  who 
had  hired  two  immense  coffee-making  ap- 
paratuses, such  as  those  used  for  army 
campaigning  purposes,  and  known  as 
"  percolateurs."  With  the  coffee,  liqueurs 
and  spirits  were  introduced,  the  number  of 
bottles  emptied  being  as  follows:  125  bott- 
les of  cognac  brandy,  75  bottles  of  kirsch- 
wasser,  and  70  bottles  of  chartreuse. 

"The  description  of  this  gastronomic 
function  would  not  be  complete  without 
some  mention  of  the  table  utensils  used 
for  the  occasion.  These  consisted  of  27,- 
ooo  plates,  15,000  wine-glasses  and  tumb- 
lers, and  12,000  sets  of  knives  and  forks. 

"The  orderly  and  efficient  manner  in 
which  the  whole  affair  was  conducted 
reflects  the  greatest  credit  on  the  caterers, 
who,  needless  to  say,  had  to  encounter 
numberless  difficulties.  Thanks  to  their 
skilled  experience  and  well-considered 
arrangements,  all  obstacles  were  overcome, 
and  the  fame  of  Potel  and  Chabot  as  mam- 
moth foodproviders  not  only  upheld,  but 
distinctly  enhanced. — London  Caterer. 

A   RAILWAY    EATING     HOUSE    IN    SWEDEN. 

"The  station  at  Katrineholm  I  shall 
never  forget,  nor  the  dinner  that  I  had 
there.  I  was  exceedingly  hungry,  having 
started  early  in  the  morning,  and  when  the 
guard  cried  'tjugo  for  middag'  (twenty 
minutes  for  dinner)  I  lost  no  time  in  mak- 
ing preparations.  On  entering  the  matsal 
(dining  room)  I  for  a  moment  forgot  my 
hunger,  everything  was  so  different  from 
what  I  had  before  seen.  In  the  center 
of  the  room  was  a  long  table,  with  a  snowy 
white  table-cloth,  upon  which  was  seen 
the  most  tempting  food  imaginable,  all 
smoking  hot,  having  just  been  taken  from 
the  oven.  At  one  end  of  the  table  were 
two  tureens,  one  of  soup  and  the  other 


of  buttermilk,  the  last  a  favorite  dish  in 
Sweden  and  of  which  many  partake  before 
their  soup.  Beside  these  tureens  were  piles 
of  warm  plates,  knifes,  forks,  spoons  and 
napkins.  Each  traveler  who  was  desirous 
of  dining  helped  himself  or  herself  to  a 
plate,  etc.,  walking  around  the  table,  se- 
lected what  best  pleased  the  appetite,  then 
seated  himself  at  one  of  the  small  tables 
around  the  room.  After  soup  came  fish, 
then  roast  beef,  lamb,  chicken,  vegetables, 
jellies,  puddings,  bread,  butter,  cream  and 
coffee.  One  could  eat  all  he  wished,  help 
himself  a  second  time  if  he  desired  to,  and 
the  price  of  a  dinner,  five  or  six  courses, 
was  only  i  krona  and  50  6're,  about  40  cents. 
Those  who  did  not  wish  a  full  dinner 
helped  themselves  from  the  sm8rgdsbord} 
or  to  a  cup  of  coffee  from  a  coffee  urn. 
There  were  no  waiters  running  to  and  fro, 
no  crashing  of  dishes,  no  noise  or  confu- 
sion in  any  way.  Each  person  went  to  the 
desk  and  paid  for  what  he  had  eaten,  either 
the  dinner  from  the  smorgasbord,  from 
which  a  good  meal  of  cold  meats,  bread 
and  butter,  for  50  Ore  (13  cents),  or  for  a 
lunch  of  coffee  and  cakes.  The  word  of 
each  person  was  taken,  and  there  were  no 
waiters  to  watch  to  see  what  each  had 
eaten.  I  never  enjoyed  a  dinner  more,  and 
I  thought  how  pleasant  it  would  be  to  have 
similar  restaurants  in  America." — Foreign 
Letter. 

BREAKFAST   FOR    IO,5OO    PEOPLE. 

"The  High  Sheriff  of  Lancaster,  Mr. 
James  Williamson,  of  Ryelands,  in  that 
county,  has  marked  his  assumption  of  office 
by  a  profuse  and  princely  hospitality.  On 
the  nth  of  last  month,  the  date  of  his  state 
entry  into  Lancaster,  he  entertained  10,500 
people  of  the  town  and  neighborhood  at  a 
public  breakfast  in  his  park  at  Ryelands. 
Mr.  Williamson — who  we  may  note  en 
passant  is  a  commercial  millionnaire — being 
a  native  of  Lancaster,  determined  that  his 
open-house  hospitality  should  be  dispensed 
by  a  local  caterer,  and  accordingly  entrusted 
the  monster  job  to  Mr.  S.  Ducksbury,  of 
the  County  and  King's  Arms  Hotel.  From 


168 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


all  we  can  hear,  that  gentleman  rose  to  the 
occasion,  and  carried  the  whole  affair 
through  in  a  most  satisfactory  manner.  As 
showing  the  extent  and  magnitude  of  the 
arrangements,  we  may  mention  that  the 
crockery  alone  weighed  in  the  aggregate 
thirteen  and  a  half  tons,  and  numbered 
13,000  plates,  with  glasses  and  dishes  in 
proportion,  two  glasses  being  placed  to  each 
guest.  The  cutlery,  which  weighed  over 
two  tons,  was  supplied,  we  learn,  by  Messrs. 
Jennison,  of  the  Belle  Vue  Gardens,  Man- 
chester. To  superintend  the  cooking  ar- 
rangements, Mr.  Ducksbury  hired  the  ser- 
vices of  two  competent  chefs,  the  Brothers 
Mackenzie,  of  Liverpool,  and  three  weeks 
prior  to  the  occasion  they  were  installed  in 
Lancaster,  supervising  the  erection  of 
special  culinary  plant.  Large  vats,  heated 
by  steam  coils,  were  provided  for  boiling, 
as  also  a  fish-steaming  apparatus,  capable 
of  holding  thirty  salmon  at  a  time.  There 
were  200  dishes  of  salmon,  the  whole 
'masked'  with  mayonnaise  sauce.  As  the 
meats  were  cooked  they  were  stored  in  a 
large  shed  fitted  with  rack  shelving,  which, 
had  it  been  placed  end  to  end,  would  have 
reached  two  miles.  The  stock  from  the 
*  boiled  chickens,  tongues  and  other  meats, 
together  with  waste,  trimmings,  etc.,  was 
cleared  away  as  fast  as  produced  by  the 
poor  of  Lancaster.  The  viands  comprised : 
2,000  pounds  of  salmon,  So  rounds  of  beef, 
80  pieces  of  pressed  beef,  80  ribs  of  beef,  So 
galantines  of  veal,  100  Melton  Mowbray 
pies  (8  pounds  each),  100  meat  pies  (vari- 
ous), 100  boiled  hams,  250  tongues,  400 
roast  chickens,  200  boiled  chickens,  20 
game  pies,  20  spring  pies,  40  turkeys,  500 
ducklings,  300  fruit  tarts,  and  250  open 
tarts.  Some  5,000  bottles  of  wine — cham- 
pagne, port  and  sherry — were  consumed, 
part  of  the  former  being  Pommery.  The 
waiters  numbered  140,  and  with  assistants, 
washers  and  others,  totalled  a  staff  of 
about  350. 

"In  order  to  provide  the  required  accom- 
tuodation  for  the  guests  five  marquees  were 
erected  in  Ryelands  Park.  These  tents 
were  placed  in  the  form  of  a  square,  leav- 


ing a  considerable  space  in  the  centre.  The 
tables  ran  the  length  of  the  tents,  but  had 
divisions  in  the  centre  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  the  waiters.  The  space  between 
the  tents  was  barricaded,  the  public  not 
being  admitted  to  the  central  enclosure. 
At  the  back  of  each  tent,  and  communicat- 
ing with  it,  was  a  smaller  one  for  service 
purposes,  and  which  was  in  immediate 
communication  with  the  food  and  wine 
stores — two  tents  adjoining  each  other  and 
occupying  the  centre  of  the  enclosure.  In 
the  latter  a  telephone  communicating  with 
the  County  and  King's  Arms  Hotels,  so 
that  in  the  event  of  anything  being  unex  - 
pectedly  required,  it  could  be  obtained  with 
the  least  possible  delay.  The  intervening 
space  between  the  several  tents  and  stores 
was  utilized  for  the  waiters  and  staff  of 
women  who  had  been  engaged  for  washing 
up,  and  for  which  water  from  the  town 
had  been  laid  on  to  the  enclosure,  and  a 
portable  steam  engine  fixed  for  heating 
purposes.  The  hot  water  was  run  into 
large  tubs,  so  that  there  was  an  abundant 
supply  constantly  available.  Behind  each 
waiter's  tent  a  knife-cleaning  machine  was 
fixed  with  a  man  specially  appointed  to 
work  it  Nothing  seems  to  have  been 
omitted  which  could  in  any  way  contribute 
to  the  comfort  or  convenience  of  the  guests 
and  the  speedy  satisfaction  of  their  wants. 
"In  the  High  Sheriff's  marquee,  devoted 
to  the  local  clergy,  gentry  and  tradesmen, 
was  served  a  sumptuous  repast,  the  menu 
being  as  follows: 


Mayonnaise  of  Salmon. 
Soles  en  aspic.  Potted  Shrimps. 

GROSSES  PIECES. 

Spring-  Pies. 

Rounds  of  Beef.    Ribs  of  Beef.     Roulades  of  Beef. 
Quarters  of  Lamb.  Galantines  of  Veal 

Roast  Chickens.     Boiled  Chickens. 

Boned  Turkeys.       Hams.        Tongues. 

Various  Meat  Pies.    Roast  Ducks. 

Melton  Mowbray  Pies. 

Dressed  Crabs.  Dressed  Lobsters. 

Prawns  en  Pyramid. 

Tomato  Salads. 


ENTREMETS  SUCRES. 

Fruit  Tarts.       Pastry,  various. 
Jellies.        Custard,  etc. 

DESSERT. 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


169 


"  The  tents  for  the  general  body  of  vis- 
itors were  filled  by  relays,  but  good  order 
was  maintained,  and,  thanks  to  the  excellent 
arrangements  of  Mr.  Ducksbury  (whose 
efforts  were  ably  seconded  by  his  three 
sons),  the  feasting  of  the  whole  10,500  guests 
was  got  through  in  about  2>1A  hours. 

"  In  these  tents  the  menu  was  as  follows : 

POISSON. 
Salmon. 


GROSSES    PIECES. 

Pressed  beef.    Rounds  of  beef. 

Ribs  of  beef. 

Vaiious  meat  pies. 

Roast  chickens.    Boiled  chickens. 

Hams.  Tongues. 

Quarters  of  lamb. 

Roast  duckling's. 

Melton  Mowbray  pies. 

ENTREMETS  SUCRES. 

Fruit  tarts.       Tartlets. 
Stewed  fruit,  etc, 

"On  the  conclusion  of  the  feast,  the 
broken  meat  and  fragments  of  all  kind« 
were  distributed  among  the  assistant  wait- 
ers, the  washers,  and  others. 

"Needless  to  say,  there  was  much  effusive 
toasting  of  fie  High  Sheriff  and  his  family, 
whose  magnificent  hospitality  may  be  said 
to  have  created  a  red-letter  day  in  the  annals 
of  Lancaster.  Regarded  as  a  mere  catering 
achievement  this  public  breakfast  was  re- 
markable, and  that  it  should  have  passed 
off  so  smoothly  and  successfully  redounds 
not  a  little  to  the  professional  credit  of  Mr. 
Ducksbury,  his  cfiefs,  and,  in  fact,  all  con- 
cerned in  the  carrying  out  of  a  very  big  job." 

CATERING   AT  THE    MANCHESTER    EXHIBI- 
TION. 

"The  Manchester  Exhibition  refreshment 
contract,  one  of  the  biggest  ever  under- 
taken, which,  it  will  be  remembered,  was 
secured  by  Mr.  A.  Mackenzie  Ross,  of  the 
Cafe*  Royal,  Edinburgh,  is  now  in  full 
working  order.  The  accommodation  al- 
lowed by  the  Executive  at  first  proved  so 
inadequate  that  five  additional  places  have 
now  been  provided,  one  of  the  new  bars 
being  nearly  100  yards  long.  Some  idea  of 
the  magnitude  of  the  contract  may  be  seen 
by  an  early  visit  to  the  culinary  section, 
where  from  6  till  9:30  a.  m.  a  constant  pro- 


cession of  carts  wait  their  turn  to  get  un- 
loaded at  the  various  shops  in  the  stores — 
the  lorries  of  Messrs.  Salt,  the  Burton 
brewers,  with  hundreds  of  hogsheads  of 
their  beer,  being  conspicuous  among  the 
number.  Of  bottled  beer,  Messrs.  Salt 
supply  on  an  average  from  1,500  to  2,000 
weekly.  One  of  the  most  extraordinary 
and  interesting  facts  connected  with  the 
refreshment  department  is  the  demand  for 
tea  and  coffee.  Nightly  crowds  have  to 
wait  their  turn  at  the  tea  and  coffee  rooms, 
which  hold  close  on  7,000,  and  the  quantity 
gone  through  during  a  recent  week  amount- 
ed to  n  arly  \l/z  tons  of  tea,  equal  to  over 
20,000  gallons.  Among  the  other  edibles 
which  Mr.  Scott,  the  head  of  the  chefs,  puts 
through  his  hands,  may  be  mentioned  from 
4,000  to  5,000  Ibs  of  butcher  meat  per  week ; 
1,000  head  of  game  and  poultry  per  day; 
100  stone  white  fish  besides  salmon  per 
week;  300  gallons  of  milk  and  cream  per 
day;  and  4,000  4-lb.  loaves  per  day;  irre- 
spective of  biscuit,  fancy  bread,  and  fruit. 
To  overtake  this  work,  Mr.  Ross  has  a  staff 
of  over  1,100  people  engaged  under  him." 

HOW    30,OOO   CHILDREN    WERE    FED. 

"We  have  received  from  Mr.  P.  C. 
Javal,  of  the  firm  of  Spiers  and  Pond,  Li- 
mited, detailed  particulars  of  their  "  general 
scheme"  for  the  supply  of  refreshments 
to  the  30,000  children  who  assembled  in 
Hyde^Park  on  Wednesday,  June  22nd,  to 
celebrate  her  Majesty's  Jubilee.  So  suc- 
cessfully did  the  caterers  carry  out  their 
onerous  undertaking,  that  Mr.  Felix 
Spiers  was  personally  thanked  by  H.  R.  H. 
the  Prince  of  Wales  for  his  share  in  contri- 
buting to  the  succes  of  the  f£te ;  Mr.  Javal 
also,  whose  duties  held  him  in  another 
part  of  the  ground,  received  a  letter  by 
command  of  the  Prince  to  the  same  effect. 
That  these  distinctions  were  honestly  mer- 
ited will  become  evident  from  a  glance  at 
a  few  of  the  items  on  record. 

"  To  cater  perfectly  for  such  an  immense 
assembly  of  juveniles  neccessitated  special 
arrangements,  and  from  6  o'clock  on  Mon- 
day morning  to  10  a.  m.  on  Wednesday 


170 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


the  woik  of  preparation  was  carried  or  ! 
continuously  at  the  central  offices  of  the  | 
firm. 

"To  supply  the  requisite  comestibles, 
the  resources  of  several  firms  were  called 
into  action  by  Messrs.  Spiers  and  Pond. 
The  gross  quantities  given  are  as  follows: 
27,700  meatpies,  all  of  which  were  made 
by  Messrs.  Spiers  and  Pond ;  56,00')  buns, 
provided  equally  by  Messrs.  Hill  and  Son, 
of  Bishopsgate  Street,  and  Carl  Fleck,  of 
Brompton  Road;  27,700  cakes,  made  by 
Spiers  and  Pond ;  27,700  oranges  (selected 
and  examined  to  ensure  perfect  condition, 
it  being  late  in  the  season  for  this  fruit), 
supplied  by  Butt  and  Son,  of  High  Street, 
Kensington,  and  Covent  Garden ;  9,000 
gallons  of  lemonade  and  gingerade, 
produced  equally  by  Norrish  and  Culver- 
house  &  Co.  No  less  than  5  tons  of  ice, 
moreover  was  supplied ;  knives,  cups,  mugs, 
paper  bags  etc.,  were  of  course  provided  in 
thousands. 

"  It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  observe  that 
all  the  refreshments  were  made  of  the  best 
materials,  the  meat  pies  being  prepared 
from  the  best  parts  of  cattle  slaughtered 
upon  the  special  premises  of  the  catering 
firm.  After  they  were  baked,  each  pie  was 
uniform  in  size,  weight,  etc.,  and  was 
cooled  in  the  ice-houses  of  the  establish- 
ment; they  were  then  each  wrapped  in 
small  grease-proof  bags.  These  bags  were 
made  up  into  parcels  containing  200-  each, 
and  put  into  boxes.  Each  of  these  boxes 
in  its  turn  was  numbered  to  correspond 
with  the  tent  to  which  it  was  consigned  for 
delivery  in  Hyde  Park.  This  done,  the 
boxes  were  ready  for  the  wagons  or  vans, 
which  also  bore  the  number  of  the  tent  they 
were  to  be  sent  to  in  the  park.  The  cake 
was  packed  up  and  loaded  in  a  similar 
manner.  The  ten  vans,  one  for  each  tent, 
were  drawn  up  in  front  of  Spiers  and  Pond's 
premises  at  six  o'clock  on  Tuesday  evening 
to  receive  the  boxes  containing  the  food,  as 
well  as  the  napery,  cups,  etc.  It  took  until 
midnight  to  load  the  conveyances.  At  two 
a.  m.  they  started  in  procession  direct  for 
Hyde  Park.  To  prevent  any  possibility  of 


their  being  looted  on  the  way  by  the 
crowds  which  even  at  that  hour  thronged 
the  streets  looking  at  the  illuminations,  a 
policeman  escorted  each  van  to  the  park, 
where  they  arrived  about  three  o'clock  in 
the  morning,  picking  up  on  the  route  the 
carts  with  the  oranges  from  Covent  Garden, 
and  from  the  bakers  with  the  buns.  Early 
as  the  hour  was,  the  corps  of  250  waiters 
were  in  readiness  to  receive  the  carts  and 
vans,  which  were  immediately  unpacked. 
Next  followed  the  opening  of  the  boxes, 
and  the  putting  up  in  big  paper-bags  of — 
first,  the  bag  containing  the  meat  pie,  then 
an  orange,  a  piece  of  cake,  and  a  bun  in 
each  one.  When  this  was  completed,  all 
the  bags  were  piled  up  in  lots  of  250  upon 
the  tent-tables  ready  for  instant  distribution. 
The  lemonade  and  gingerade  for  drinking 
was  made  on  the  spot  in  large  hogsheads, 
of  which  there  were  twelve  apportioned  to 
each  tent.  Huge  ladles  were  planted  in 
readiness  to  dip  the  liquor  out  into  the  cups 
and  mugs  from  which  the  children  drank. 
In  addi'ion  to  all  this,  water-carts,  lent  by 
the  Office  of  Works  and  by  the  military 
authorities,  were  attached  to  every  tent  to 
supply  pure  drinking-water  to  those  who 
preferred  it.  A  large  block  of  ice  was 
placed  in  each  hogshead  to  aid  in  keeping 
the  drinking  supply  cool. 

"There  were  ten  refreshment  tents, 
numbered  i  to  10,  each  140  ft.  long  hy  40 
ft.  wide,  and  to  each  was  apportioned  a  su- 
perintendent and  twenty-five  waiters,  rein- 
forced by  a  volunteer  staff  of  ladies  and 
gentlemen. 

"  Each  school  knew  the  number  of  the 
tent  to  which  it  was  to  proceed,  and,  having 
marched  thither,  drew  up  outside.  Then^ 
in  their  turn,  the  children,  in  batches  of 
250,  proceeded  into  the  tent  and  received  a 
paper-bag  containing  the  food  already  de- 
scribed, together  with  a  cup  of  lemonade 
or  gingerade,  as  was  preferred.  In  this 
way  the  children,  assigned  beforehand  to 
each  tent,  were  very  soon  all  served. 
Luncheons  were  also  spread  in  the  extra 
tents  provided  for  the  musicians  and  bands- 
men, etc. 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


"The  provision  was  quite  adequate  to 
the  occasion,  and  the  "reserve"  was  not 
drawn  upon,  so  that  the  collected  remnants 
from  the  feast  formed  a  substantial  dona- 
tion to  Dr.  Barnardo's  Home  for  Destitute 
Boys. 

"  We  have  noted  the  above  facts  as  an 
Illustration  of  perfect  organization  and 
good  management,  and  have  pleasure  in 
placing  a  matter  of  practical  value  to 
caterers  as  a  body  on  permanent  record. — 
London  Caterer. 

CATERING    FOR   THE    MULTITUDE. 

"  The  great  popular  carnival,  Whitsun- 
tide, imposes  a  strain  upon  the  resources  of 
caterers  which  outsiders  can  but  imper- 
fectly realize.  At  the  Inventions  Exhibi- 
tion, for  example,  Messrs.  Spiers  and  Pond 
were  on  Whit  Monday  expected  to  meet 
the  eating  and  drinking  requirements  of 
over  73,000  people.  This  gigantic  task  was, 
thanks  to  the  masterly  arrangements  made, 
carried  out  with  complete  success  in  spite 
of  pessimistic  prognostications.  At  the 
Crystal  Palace  Messrs.  Bertram  &  Roberts 
were  prepared  to  "  tackle "  a  similar 
inrush.  The  general  average  number  of 
visitors  to  the  Crystal  Palace  to  be  provided 
for  is  10,000,  but  Whit  Monday  is  always  a 
special  day,  and  the  curious  warren  of 
larders  and  kitchens,  bakeries,  groceries, 
butche-s'  shops,  and  wine-vaults  down  at 
the  back  of  the  south  transept,  was  for 
days  previous  a  very  interesting  scene  of 
preparation.  A  correspondent  was  per- 
mitted to  walk  through  the  place  on  the 
Saturday  preceeding  the  great  holiday,  and 
a  particularly  busy  scene  he  found  it.  The 
contractors  were  prepared  for  a  nice  little 
tea-party  of  4,000  people  at  one  time.  They 
can  seat  this  number  at  any  rate — perhaps 
some  at  dinner  and  some  at  tea.  They  ex- 
pected to  brew  some  5,000  gallons  of  tea 
and  coffee,  and  in  one  room  were  several 
huge  boilers  and  some  hundreds  of  tins  like 
large-sized  waterpots  in  which  the  beverage 
Is  run  away  on  trucks  to  various  parts  of 
the  palace.  They  were  providing  for  about 
15,000  shilling  teas,  and  their  preparations 
for  dinner  suggested  nothing  short  of  a 


protracted  siege  about  to  commence.  Some 
twelve  tons  of  meat  would  be  required 
and  about  twenty  women  were  busily 
employed  in  peeling  potatoes,  washing  cab- 
bages, making  salads,  and  so  forth.  The 
firm  make  and  prepare  pretty  nearly 
everything  here,  including  various  kinds 
of  aereted  drinks,  the  water  for  which  is 
pumped  up  from  an  artesian  well  in  the 
grounds  and  elaborately  filtered  on  the 
premises.  The  bottling  machinery  is  very 
extensive,  and  the  laundry  down  in  this 
queer  region  is  fitted  up  with  all  the  most 
modern  appliances,  the  eb  iblishment 
having  in  stock  something  like  20,000  din- 
ner napkins  and  5,000  or  6,000  table-cloths. 
On  the  Saturday  there  were  four  men 
making  nothing  but  pork-pies,  and  the 
quantities  of  Crystal  Palace  cake  stowed 
away  in  readiness  for  visitors  was  some- 
thing prodigious.  The  ordinary  staff  of 
this  huge  culinary  establishment  is  about 
500  people.  On  Bank  Holiday  those  em- 
ployed about  the  place  in  one  way  or 
another  was  double  that  number." 

STEWARDING   FOR   THE    SULTAN. 

"There  are  over  six  thousand  persons, 
says  the  Netv  York  Herald,  fed  three  times 
a  day  at  Dolma  Bagtche  Palace  while  the 
Sultan  is  there.  To  keep  all  this  great 
machinery  of  supply  in  perfect  order,  so 
that  no  matter  how  many  mouths  there  are 
to  fill,  nor  what  sudden  caprice  may  seize 
the  Sultan,  or  any  of  his  numerous  women, 
it  may  be  instantly  satisfied,  is  a  tax  upon 
the  best  capacity,  backed  by  unlimited 
money  or  credit.  If  the  caprice  is  not  grati- 
fied as  rapidly  as  it  is  formulated,  the  officer 
whose  duty  it  is  to  provide  for  it  is  almost 
certain  to  loose  his  position,  if  not  his  liberty 
and  belongings,  for  there  is  a  fashion  of 
long  usage  in  Turkey  which  confiscates 
any  disgraced  official's  possessions.  The 
Chamberlain  (manager)  is  mostly  occupied 
in  ministering  to  the  wants  and  caprices  of 
the  Sultan,  and  is  in  almost  constant  attend- 
ance upon  him,  so  the  Treasurer  of  the' 
Household  (steward)  has  the  burden  of  the 
housekeeping  on  his  burly  shoulders.  He 
has  an  organized  force  of  buyers,  who  are 


172 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


each  charged  with  the  purchase  of  certain 
supplies  for  their  individual  departments, 
each  having  his  helpers,  servants,  and  slaves. 
One  man  is  charged  with  the  duty  of  sup- 
plying all  the  fish,  and  as  to  furnish  fish  for 
certainly  six  thousand  persons  is  no  light 
undertaking  in  a  place  where  there  are  no 
great  markets  as  there  are  in  all  other  large 
cities,  he  has  to  have  about  twenty  men  to 
scour  the  various  small  markets  and  buy 
of  the  fishermen,  and  each  of  these  men 
has  two  others  to  carry  the  fish  they  buy. 
It  requires  about  ten  tons  of  fish  a  week. 
There  are  nearly  eighteen  thousand  pounds 
of  bread  eaten  daily ;  for  the  Turks  are  large 
bread-eaters,  and  this  is  all  baked  in  the 
enormous  ovens  situated  at  some  distance 
from  the  palace.  The  kitchens  are  detached 
from  all  the  palaces  and  kiosks.  It  requires 
a  large  force  of  bakers  to  make  the  bread 
and  another  to  bring  it  to  the  palace  and 
another  force  of  buyers  who  purchase  the 
flour  and  fuel.  The  bringing  of  most  of 
the  wood  and  charcoal  is  done  by  the  un- 
happy camels,  who  carry  it  on  their  backs. 
The  rest  comes  in  large  caiquer.  The 
Turkish  bread  is  baked  in  large  loaves,  and 
is  light,  moist,  and  sweet,  delicious  bread 
in  every  way,  particularly  that  which  is 
made  of  rye. 

"The  food  for  the  Sultan  is  cooked  by  one 
man  and  his  aids,  and  none  others  touch  it. 
It  is  cooked  in  silver  vessels,  and  when 
done  each  kettle  is  sealed  by  a  slip  of  paper 
and  a  stamp,  and  this  is  broken  in  the  pres- 
ence by  the  High  Chamberlain,  who  takes 
one  spoonful  of  each  separate  kettle  before 
the  Sultan  tastes  it.  This  is  to  prevent  the 
Sultan's  being  poisoned.  The  food  is  al- 
most always  served  up  to  the  Sultan  in  the 
same  vessels  in  which  it  was  cooked,  and 
these  are  often  of  gold,  but  when  of  baser 
metal  the  kettle  is  set  into  a  rich  golden 
bell-shaped  holder,  the  handle  of  which  is 
held  by  a  slave  while  the  Sultan  eats.  Each 
kettle  is  a  course,  and  is  served  with  bread 
and  a  kind  of  pancake,  which  is  held  on  a 
golden  tray  by  another  slave.  It  requires 
just  twice  as  many  slaves  as  there  are  cour- 
ses to  serve  a  dinner  to  him.  He  usually 


sits  on  a  divan  near  a  window,  which  looks 
out  over  the  Bosphorous,  and  takes  his  ease 
and  comfort  in  a  loose  pembazar&nd  gegelik 
with  his  sleeves  turned  up.  After  he  has 
eaten  all  he  wants,  the  Sultan  takes  his  cof- 
fee and  his  chibouk  and  lies  back  in  an 
ecstasy  of  enjoyment  and  quiet  reverie, 
which  he  calls  taking  his  keif.  Woe  be  to 
the  one  who  comes  to  disturb  it !  The  S  ultan 
never  uses  a  plate.  He  takes  all  his  food 
direct  from  the  little  kettles,  and  never  uses 
a  table  and  rarely  a  knife  or  fork.  A  spoon, 
his  bread  or  pancake  or  fingers  a'e  far 
handier.  The  whole  household  is  at  liberty 
to  take  meals  where  it  suits  him  or  her  best, 
and  thus  everyone  is  served  with  a  small 
tray,  with  a  spoon,  with  a  great  chunk  of 
bread,  and  the  higher  ones  only  get  the 
pancakes. 

"The  Sultan  has  a  number  of  very  large 
farms,  some  of  them  covering  miles  in  ex- 
tent, both  in  European  Turkey  and  Asiatic 
Turkey,  and  they  are  intended  to  supply 
all  those  things  which  farms  can  produce 
to  the  palace.  They  do  not  grow  rice,  and, 
in  consequence,  buy  nearly  one  ton  of  rice 
per  day  for  the  inevitable  pilaff,  six  hundred 
pounds  of  sugar,  as  much  coffee,  to  say 
nothing  of  the  other  groceries,  fruit,  veget- 
ables, and  meat.  Rice  and  mutton  and 
bread  form  the  greater  part  of  the  food  for 
the  majority  of  Turks ;  yet,  aside  from  these, 
they  get  away  with  one  ton  of  beef  and  half 
a  ton  of  veal  per  day,  to  say  nothing  of  the 
other  viands  and  fish,  sweetmeats,  confec- 
tionery, nuts,  and  dried  and  fresh  fruits. 
The  waste  and  extravagance  in  the  kitchen 
are  enormous,  and  enough  is  thrown  away 
every  day  to  maintain  a  hundred  families. 
Much  of  this  is  gathered  up  by  beggars, 
and  the  dogs  eat  the  rest. 

It  is  estimated  that  the  anual  cost  of  the 
food  received  for  the  Sultan's  house- 
hold, horses  and  animals,  aside  from  the 
value  of  the  product  of  the  vast  farms, 

is  very  nearly  if  not  quite $5,000,000 

Cost  of  furniture,  bedding-  and  carpets. . .  3,000,000 
Drugs,  women's  clothes,  jewels,  cosmetics  10,000,000 

*  apnces  of  all  kinds 15,000,000 

Sultan's  clothes  and  bedding 2,000,000 

Sundries,  presents,  and  servants  wages. ..  4  000,000 

Plate,  gold  and  silver  dishes 2,500,000 

Carriages,  474  of  them 474,000 

Total $41,974,000 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


173 


"That  is  a  snug  little  sum,  but  it  is  an 
under  rather  than  an  overestimate." 

THE    ARMY     HOSPITAL    STEWARD. 

The  army  steward  is  like  the  under 
steward  of  a  steamship.  He  is  subordinate 
to  the  surgeon  of  the  ward,  who  acts  as 
upper  steward  in  some  respects.  The  hos- 
pital steward  has  his  cooks  and  assistants 
and  has  charge  of  the  preparation  and  serv- 
ing of  meals  and  care  of  patients,  beds, 
etc. ;  he  makes  his  requisitions  for  rations 
and  supplies  and  presents  them  to  the  sur- 
geon for  approval  and  signature.  At  every 
permanent  post  there  is  a  store-room  in 
charge  of  a  commissary,  which  greatly  re- 
sembles the  store-room  of  a  hotel,  except 
that  it  contains  a  much  smaller  variety  of 
goods,  and  the  requisitions  are  hero  pre- 
sented and  the  goods  issued  to  officers' 
messes  and  ward  patients  and  are  booked 
and  accounted  for  to  the  quartermaster, 
much  the  same  as  under  the  hotel  system. 

EXPOSITION*     CATERING — WHAT    IT   COSTS 

TO   CATER    AND    WHAT   THE    CHANCES 

ARE    FOR    PROFITS. 

Atlanta,  Ga.,  Oct.  i7th,  '87.— Here  is  a 
great  business  which  is  intirely  unrepre- 
sented in  American  journalism,  and  carried 
on  entirely  without  system,  almost  without 
understanding;  a  new  set  of  moths  flying 
at  the  dazzling  flame  and  coming  out 
singed  every  year.  This  letter  to  the 
HOTEL  WORLD  is  written  on  the  grounds 
in  the  half-way  period  of  the  Exposition  at 
Atlanta,  the  best  week  yet  to  come,  the 
weather  the  most  favorable  possible,  and 
everything  propitious  to  the  utmost  success, 
therefore  I  have  no  croaking  predictions  of 
financial  disaster  to  make  in  this  case,  but 
am  impressed  with  the  vast  disproportions 
of  the  risks  to  be  run  to  the  possible  profits 
of  a  dining  room  and  restaurant  enterprise 
at  such  a  fair  when  undertaken  under  the 
conditions  which  are  now  generally  im- 
posed. Undoubtedly  the  directors  of  these 
temporary  fairs  ought  to  award  the  dining 
room  privileges  free  to  the  best  and  most 
responsible  party  that  would  accept,  instead 


of  exacting  a  heavy  bonus  and  sure  pay, 
cash  dovwi  in  advance,  as  they  do,  throwing 
all  the  risks  of  failure  from  bad  weather, 
non-attendance  of  the  public,  fire,  or  other 
mishaps,  upon  the  venturesome  refresh- 
ment contractor;  and  undoubtedly  they 
would,  if  the  risks  and  difficulties  to  be  met 
were  better  understood  and  some  of  the 
delusively  exaggerated  idea  of  the  profits 
to  be  realized  from  serving  cooked  meals 
were  dissipated  by  actual  exhibits  of  losses 
and  gains  in  different  instances;  for  the 
directors  would  be  compelled  to  provide 
dining  places  for  the  crowds  which  they 
induce  to  attend  their  shows,  and  it  is 
nothing  but  the  infatuation  of  inexperience 
that  impels  men  to  pay  thousands  of  dol- 
lars for  the  wretched  privilege  of  expend- 
ing thousands  more  in  fitting  up  one  or  two 
hotels  on  the  grounds,  with  all  the  inci- 
dental entailments,  all  for  the  grand  reward 
in  view  of  a  probable  two  weeks'  business. 
Messrs.  Directors!  I  wouldn't  pay  you 
ten  cents.  There  is  no  adequate  profit  in 
serving  meals  alone  under  such  circum- 
stances. 

Big  money  is  occasionally  made  by 
exposition  catering,  but  it  is  under  certain  , 
favorable  conditions,  such  as  the  being  in 
a  very  large  city;  having  exclusive  privi- 
leges ;  owning  every  refreshment  stand  on 
the  grounds ;  the  contractor  being  perma- 
nently provided  with  portable  ranges, 
tables,  silverware,  crockery,  linen,  and  the 
thousand  miscellaneous  wares,  always 
ready  for  such  employment,  and  under- 
standing the  business  and  all  its  risks. 
The  number  of  disasters  that  occur  is, 
however,  so  much  greater  than  the  suc- 
cesses as  to  scarcely  justify  a  comparison 
being  made,  yet,  if  better  reported,  they 
might  warn  the  fresh  crop  of  enthusiasts 
and  keep  some  of  them  out  of  trouble ;  as, 
for  example,  these  following: 

At  the  Cotton  Exposition,  which  took 
place  at  Atlanta  a  few  years  ago,  two  gen- 
tlemen in  the  restaurant  and  hotel  business 
on  the  grounds  lost  ten  thousand  dollars 
each,  according  to  common  report.  One 
of  these,  Mr.  Pease,  is  not  known  in  hotel 


174 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


circles,  but  he  had  a  local  name  and  repu- 
tation, somewhat  of  the  factitious  order, 
perhaps,  as  an  able  restaurateur.  He  con- 
ducted the  exposition  dining  rooms,  did 
business  enough,  apparently,  fed  the  people, 
but  failed  to  get  his  pay  through  having  no 
system  of  checking.  He  had  long  tables, 
and  the  people  crowded  in  at  meal  hours, 
and  many  either  went  away  without  pay- 
ing at  all,  or  paid  the  waiters,  or  dropped 
the  money  into  any  open  hand  that  hap- 
pened to  be  held  out  to  receive  it.  The 
other  loser  built  the  exposition  hotel,  and 
failed  to  secure  patronage  commensurate 
with  his  expenses.  His  financial  disaster 
probably  changed  the  current  of  his  life. 
He  is  one  of  the  most  amiable  of  men,  and 
his  name  was  once  exceedingly  prominent 
as  a  rising  hotel  keeper,  but  ever  since  that 
disappointment  he  has  retired  to  his  Vir- 
ginia estate  and  cares  no  more  for  exposi- 
tion follies. 

Another  ambitious  man  in  the  hotel 
keeping  line  was  brought  down  through 
an  unfortunate  catering  venture  in  Kansas 
City  several  years  ago.  His  name  was 
Seigmundt;  he  kept  a  hotel  on  the  Euro- 
pean plan  and  received  &o  much  praise  in 
various  ways  that  it  made  him  want  to  own 
all  the  hotels  in  the  city,  and  he  planned  to 
build  a  new  one  that  should  be  larger  than 
all  the  others  combined.  Just  then  the 
Kansas  City  bridge  across  the  Missouri 
river  was  finished ;  the  railway  companies 
and  the  city  combined  to  give  an  immense 
celebration  of  the  event,  and  the  city  coun- 
cil or  committee  in  charge  awarded  to 
Seigmundt  the  contract  for  a  barbecue 
feast  to  be  provided  for  ten  thousand  people, 
fully  fifty  thousand  strangers  being  ex- 
pected, and  the  barbecue  being  calculated 
upon  as  one  of  the  aids  in  providing  for 
such  of  the  crowd  as  could  not  find  other 
accommodations.  The  event  came  off  and 
the  barbecue  proved  a  most  indescribable 
failure.  Seigmundt  did  not  understand 
what  he  undertook.  There  was  no  water, 
no  bread,  no  more  cooked  meat  than  would 
serve  for  a  few  hundred,  only  some  raw 
carcasses  rolled  about  in  the  dirt,  and  a 


crowd  angry  enough  to  have  started  a  riot 
but  for  strong  restraints.  Seigmundt  was 
utterly  crushed.  He  not  only  lost  the 
money,  as  he  could  not  claim  payment  on 
his  contract,  but  his  courage  was  broken ; 
he  left  Kansas  City  and  went  to  Galveston, 
where  he  died  not  long  afterwards,  in  all 
probability  a  victim  to  the  mania  for  under- 
taking gieat  catering  enterprises  which  so 
often  overcome  the  inexperienced.  But 
nearly  every  reader  of  this  article  can  tell 
of  such  instances.  I  will  only  add  a  local 
example  of  small  size.  The  man  who  had 
the  refreshment  privileges  at  the  Georgia 
state  fair  at  Macon  last  year  came  out  six 
hundred  dollars  loser,  and  if  the  amount 
was  small  it  was  borrowed  money  and  he 
was  a  poor  man,  and  consequently  was 
sufficiently  serious  for  him. 

CATERING  AT  THE  PIEDMONT  EXPOSITION. 

If  anything  can  be  made  in  a  dining 
room  and  restaurant  enterprise  on  the  fair 
grounds,  when  everything  is  favorable  to 
success,  the  venture  at  this  place  ought  to 
turn  out  well.  I  write  now  of  the  eating 
department  exclusively,  for  the  liquor  or 
liquid  privileges  were  sold  separately  and 
do  not  affect  the  following  exhibit  of  ex- 
penses incurred  (liquors,  by  the  way,  are 
known  by  different  names  in  the  Atlanta 
prohibition  patois  from  those  common  in 
the  freer  portions  of  the  country)— and 
only  cigar  selling  is  included  as  an  aid  to 
pay  the  first  grand  tax.  The  gentlemen 
interested  have  the  advantage  of  both  hotel 
and  mercantile  experience;  they  know  how 
to  buy  and  where  to  buy  the  best  and 
cheapest.  The  privileges  sold  to  these 
parties  as  the  highest  bidders,  were  to  run 
a  dining  room  on  the  regular  meal  plan, 
meals  not  to  be  charged  higher  than  fifty 
cents,  and  to  run  another  on  a  different 
part  of  the  grounds  on  the  a  la  carte  plan, 
all  dishes  bearing  a  distinct  price.  Both  of 
these  places  are  now  running.  The  dining 
room  is  just  what  the  name  implies  Per- 
sons approaching  the  door  find  a  ticket 
seller  in  the  way,  they  buy  their  tickets, 
paying,  of  course,  in  advance  for  their 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


175 


meal;  then  at  the  door  they  deliver  the 
ticket  to  the  doorkeeper  and  pass  in  when 
the  headwaiter  directs  them  to  seats  at  one 
or  other  of  the  tables.  A  good  ordinary 
meal  is  served  without  a  bill  of  fare,  con- 
sisting of  about  three  kinds  of  meet,  half  a 
dozen  vegetables,  three  kinds  of  sweets, 
that  is,  pudding  and  two  kinds  of  pie,  and 
ending  with  coffee  or  tea;  bread,  butter, 
pickles,  cheese  and  such  oddments  being 
of  course  supplied  without  stint.  The  other 
place  is  like  your  Chicago  Oyster  House,  a 
good  bill  of  fare  is  found  upon  the  tables, 
oysters,  fish,  game,  made  dishes  and  steaks, 
chops,  etc.,  in  variety  are  cooked  to  order, 
and  parties  can  spend  as  much  as  they 
please ;  the  prices  are  high  enough  to  make 
the  place  sufficiently  exclusive  and  so  all 
kinds  of  people  are  suited.  To  secure  the 
pay  under  this  plan  where  every  dish  bears 
a  different  price  and  there  can  be  no  pre- 
payment, the  plan  is  to  have  the  waiters  pass 
a  desk  where  a  clerk  counts  up  the  amount 
on  their  tray,  gives  a  ticket  to  go  with  the 
order  and  drops  a  duplicate  ticket  into  a 
locked  box.  The  customer  takes  the  ticket 
to  the  cashier  and  pays  as  he  goes  out,  and 
at  night  the  clerk's  box  of  tickets  and  the 
cashier's  tickets  and  cash  are  expected  to 
correspond  in  amount.  This  is  all  a  pleas- 
ant and  smooth  sort  of  a  business  when 
once  fairly  in  running  order,  but  it  is  cal- 
culated to  appal  a  lazy  man  at  least  to  con- 
template the  work  that  must  be  done  in  the 
short  limit  of  three  or  four  weeks  to  equip 
and  commence  operations  in  two  such 
places,  the  carpenters  being  still  at  work 
building  them,  and  then  to  think  that  after 
the  finish  they  are  but  to  run  twelve  days. 
It  will  be  useful  to  some  who  have  never 
been  through  the  mill  to  read  over  a  list  of 
only  the  principal  things  that  must  be 
done  for  such  a  spurt  of  business.  We 
have  here,  nearly  all  bought  outright  and 
not  hired : 

Two  hotel  ranges,  each  one  fire  and 
two  ovens,  one  of  them  new,  the  other 
bought  cheaply. 

One  ten-foot  oyster  and  chop  range  to 
burn  charcoal,  made  to  order ;  ten  feet  of 


heavy  gridirons,  cupola,  four  flues  and 
smoke  stack  and  expenses  of  putting  up. 

One  three-foot  broiler,  new. 

One  carving  table,  new,  with  dish  warmer 
and  water  heating  attachment,  made  to 
order,  with  tin-ware  steam  chest  utensils 
belonging. 

One  wooden  water  tank  for  range,  made 
to  order,  and  expenses  of  fittings. 

Two  wells  dug  one  at  each  kitchen  door, 
and  equipped  with  frames,  pulleys  and 
buckets.  , 

Two  small  pantries  partitioned  off  from 
kitchens,  fitted  with  shelves,  doors,  locks, 
etc. 

One  store-room  fitted  with  shelves,  meat 
hooks,  locks,  etc. 

Two  butcher's  meat  blocks,  one  for  each 
place. 

Two  refrigerators,  not  new. 

Two  new  meat  saws  and  cleavers. 

Eight  kitchen  and  dish-tables,  common. 

Eight  dish-washing  tubs  fitted  with  drain 
pipes. 

Two  dish  racks  erected  on  whole  side  of 
dish  rooms. 

Four  tin  boilers  with  faucets  and  strain- 
ers for  coffee  and  tea,  average  ten  gallons 
each. 

Six  tall  tin  boilers  for  boiling  hams  and 
for  general  purposes. 

Three  eight-gallon  sauce-pans  with  lids, 
made  to  order. 

Fifty  oyster  and  other  sauce-pans. 

Two  large  potato  fryers. 

Six  wire  broilers. 

Twelve  fry  and  omelette  pans,  various 
sizes. 

Thirty-six  tin  parts,  all  sizes,  including 
strainers,  etc. 

Spoons,  ladles,  dippers,  skimmers,  in 
variety. 

Fifty  dining  tables,  six-seat  iize,  new. 

Four  hundred  and  fifty  split-bottom 
chairs,  new,  made  to  order. 

One  hundred  and  fifty  white  damask 
table-cloths,  new,  hemmed. 

Two  thousand  linen  napkins,  new, 
hemmed. 

Thirty-six  plated  castors  or  cruet  stands. 


176 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


Three  hundred  sets  plated  knives,  forks, 
spoons,  cups,  saucers,  plates,  dishes,  butter 
chips,  creamers,  salts  and  tumblers,  all 
bought  outright 

Thirty- six  waiters'  trays. 

Twenty-four  water-pitchers. 

E'ghteen  gasoline  lamps  or  torches  for 
use  at  intervals  when  electric  light  is  not 
in  operation. 

Sign  painting,  kalsomining,  bunting  de- 
corations, evergreens,  sign-card  printing, 
ticket  printing,  bill  of  fare  printing. 

Thirty  feet  of  show  cases,  rented. 

Telephone  connection  and  instrument, 
rented. 

Wagons  and  drays  hired,  between  fifty 
and  one  hundred  at  a  dollar  a  load — expo- 
sition prices. 

Two  headwaiters  and  thirty  side  waiters 
hired  for  the  fair  at  extra  rates  of  wages. 

Two  head  cooks  and  twenty-six  kitchen 
hands. 

Six  cashiers  and  clerks  beside  proprie- 
tors, counting  one  in  store  room  and  one 
at  cigar  stand. 

Insurance  on  four  thousand  dollars  worth 
of  property  and  stock  including  cigars  at 
special  risk  rate  of  2j£  per  cent. 

"Fore-warned  is  fore-armed."  The  above 
shows  the  principal  bulk  of  the  burden  to 
be  taken  on  before  business  can  be  begun 
in  the  line  of  exposition  catering.  Fuel, 
imported  New  York  meats,  game,  shell 
oysters,  fish,  bread,  butter,  the  hundred 
miscellaneous  items  of  provision,  have  to 
come  afterwards. 

In  competition  with  these  two  dining 
establishments  the  fair  directors  also  li- 
censed, and  our  proprietors  by  their  con- 
tract agreed  to,  a  large  barbecue  hall,  where 
sliced  roast  meat  and  bread  can  be  obtained 
at  low  price;  and  also  twenty  lunchstands, 
where  coffee  and  sandwiches,  cakes,  pies, 
fruit,  etc.,  are  sold,  so  that  our  larger  hotels 
are  far  from  enjoying  a  monopoly. 

The  weather  thus  far  has  been  perfect 
and  the  crowds  in  attendance  large.  The 
best  week  is  yet  to  come. 


Atlanta,  Ga.,  Oct.  31,  1887.  Now  that 
the  Exposition  is  over,  the  questions  of 
everyone  I  meet,  of  course  run  about  this 
way:  "Well,  how  did  yon  come  out?" 
"Did  they  make  anything  ?"  "What  luck 
did  you  have?"  "How  much  money  was 
made?"  In  replying  to  questions  of  this 
sort  one  must  know  how  to  stop  short  of 
meddling  with  private  business.  From 
that  consideration  I  did  not  give  the  prices 
paid  for  the  many  articles  enumerated  in 
the  former  letter  on  this  subject — a  list 
intended  to  be  permamentLy  useful  as 
showing  what  is  required  in  preparation 
for  such  a  business — and  as  to  results,  it  can 
only  be  stated  that  they  are  like  those  of  a 
closely  contested  election.  A  week  after 
the  event  the  returns  are  not  all  in,  and  the 
proprietors  after  all  their  good  book-keep- 
ing do  not  yet  know  how  they  came  out. 

The  sanguine  calculation  was  made 
that  there  would  be  twelve  days  of  business 
and  four  nights.  When  the  time  came 
these  promised  periods  where  whittled 
down  at  both  ends  and  in  the  middle  till 
they  lacked  about  one-third  of  being  full 
measure,  for  the  two  first  days  were  but  of 
the  preparatory  sort  and  little  business  *.ras 
done;  then  there  never  was  much  break- 
fast business,  nothing  done  until  the 
middle  of  the  day.  If  a  great  many  took 
dinner  they  left  the  grounds  before  supper 
except  on  the  four  nights  when  there  were 
fireworks,  then  there  was  a  rushing  supper 
business  as  well  as  dinner,  but  after  the 
fire-works,  nothing,  for  the  people  rushed 
off  the  grounds  in  the  greatest  possible 
hurry.  Then  came  two  rainy  days,  but  as 
they  were  the  big  days  of  the  fair  the 
eating-house  interests  did  not  suffer,  for  the 
people  came  over  a  hundred  thousand 
strong,  some  of  them  wading  through  mud 
nearly  up  to  their  waists — at  least  they 
looked  just  that  muddy — and  the  eating- 
houses  were  taxed  to  their  utmost  capacity 
to  feed  them  all ;  but  the  day  after  that 
came  nobody  and  the  day  was  a  lost  one  to 
business;  the  closing  days  were  like  the 
opening,  poor  and  unprofitable. 

The  proprietors  were  not,  however,  de- 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


177 


pending  on  a  single  team  to  pull  them 
through,  they  drove  a  four-in-hand.  They 
had  paid  in  advance  one  thousand  dollars 
for  the  "privilege,"  and  found  that  they 
had  the  privilege  of  selling  drinkables  as 
well  as  eatables ;  they  fitted  up  two  places 
in  imitation  of  bars  in  connection  with 
their  two  dining  rooms  and  stocked  them 
up  with  rice  beer,  nerve  tonic,  soda  choctaw 
blood  balm,  swift  specific,  and  rheumatic 
cure,  drinks  which  Atlantians  and  all 
southerners  seem  to  be  passionately  fond  of, 
and  as  these  were  sold  at  ten  cents  a  drink 
for  rice  beer,  which  was  the  lowest,  up  to 
twenty- five  cents  for  soda  choctaw,  the  re- 
venue derived  from  them  was  very  satis- 
factory in  amount,  although  there  were  a 
number  of  druggist  clerks  required  to  be 
paid  for  attending  to  the  business  not  enu- 
merated in  the  former  list  of  hands  em- 
ployed. 

The  cash  receipts  from  all  four  places 
combined,  that  is,  from  the  dining  hall,  the 
oyster  house  and  the  two  drug  counters, 
amounted  on  the  best  day  of  the  fair  to 
over  twelve  hundred  dollars  for  that  one 
day.  On  average  days  the  four  places 
yielded  pretty  evenly  about  two  hundred 
dollars  each.  The  dining  room  where 
fifty-cent  meals  were  served,  as  described 
in  the  former  letter,  did  the  most  business, 
having  a  steady  run  of  custom  from  the  ex- 
hibitors and  attendants  as  well  as  visitors, 
and  usually  served  about  four  hundred 
dinners;  one  day  served  fifteen  hundred 
meals,  and  this  was  all  done  with  a  one-fire 
range-  a  broiler  and  steam  chest  with 
steamers;  a  large  part  of  the  meats  were 
•.ooked  in  the  night  by  a  special  night 
cook,  and  bread  was  bought  from  a  steam 
bakery. 

I  have  written  for  the  HOTEL  WORLD 
this  outline  sketch  of  what  exposition  cater- 
ing consists  in,  and  what  may  be  expected 
as  the  outcome,  believing  that  even  this  will 
be  better  than  no  guide  at  all  for  those  who 
may  contemplate  embarking  in  such  an 
undertaking.  Without  going  into  further 
detail  it  will  be  fair  to  assume  that: 


This  was  as  succesful  as  such  an  affair 
ever  can  be. 

The  planning  and  furnishing  was  done 
with  the  utmost  intelligence  by  men  who 
knew  what  they  were  about. 

Good  wares  were  purchased  that  they 
might  be  good  enough  to  sell  again. 

The  amount  of  business  done  was  as 
much  as  could  be  expected  where  a  mo- 
nopoly of  all  could  not  be  secured. 

The  expenses  were  enormous. 

A  crowd  of  hands  had  to  be  paid  en- 
hanced wages  and  boarded  where  provisions 
cost  enhanced  prices,  through  the  general 
demand  of  the  time. 

A  great  risk  was  run  of  the  whole 
period  being  rainy  —  as  the  following 
week  really  was — and  a  consequent  dead 
loss  through  the  lack  of  visitors  to  the 
fair. 

If  the  amount  of  profit  made  was  large 
enough  to  be  interesting  it  would  not  take 
a  week  or  two  to  find  it  out. 

If  the  thousand  dollars  exacted  for  the 
"privilege"  had  never  been  paid,  as  it 
ought  not  to  have  been,  the  proprietors 
might  have  realized  something  worth  their 
trouble,  anxiety  and  outlay. 

If  they  have  made  anything  it  is  very 
likely  to  be  found  tied  up  in  the  ranges 
and  furniture,  which  now  have  to  be  sold 
as  best  they  may  be.  There  is  just  one 
more  conclusion  to  be  drawn,  and  that  is 
that  a  great  many  people,  fair  directors 
among  others,  think  that  a  thousand  dol- 
lars taken  in  for  the  sale  of  meals  is  nearly 
all  profit.  The  fact  is,  provisions  cost 
something;  our  proprietors  paid  Beinecke, 
the  New  York  butcher,  $370  for  only  one 
shipment  of  meat  for  their  exposition 
dining  rooms  and  restaurant,  which  out- 
lay was,  of  course,  for  only  a  compara- 
tively small  portion  of  the  material  used. 

TRAINING    A    STOREKEEPER. 

Old  Colonel  Vesey  was  standing  by  when 
I  was  trying  to  instruct  Tom,  our  store- 
keeper, how  he  must  do  to  meet  the  views 
of  the  hotel  company  and  especially  the 
company's  very  exact  and  methodical  book- 


178 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


keeper,  and  the  Colonel,  who  was  an  ex- 
hotel  keener  himself,  having  run  the  only 
tavern  in  Wayback  for  a  number  of  years 
before,  dropped  the  remark  that  he  "  did 
not  see  the  use  of  keeping  store-room 
books,  anyway;  that  he  had  never  kept 
any."  That  was  just  the  sort  of  remark 
that  Tom  liked  to  hear,  for  he  was  nothing 
but  a  gay  and  noisy  young  fellow,  who 
wanted  to  do  no  more  work  than  necessity 
compelled  him  to  do.  He  liked  well 
enough  to  sit  in  the  store-room  with  a  dime 
novel  ready  open  on  the  table ;  to  bluff  off 
one  who  came  for  stores;  tell  the  next  to 
help  himself,  and  swear  when  another 
came  for  whom  he  had  to  reach  something 
down  from  an  upper  shelf  or  open  a  new 
package;  and  he  liked  very  well  to  use  his 
position  to  hand  out  nice  fruit  and  such 
good  things  to  the  pretty  girls  and  withold 
such  favors  from  those  who  did  not 
please  him.  He  had  held  such  positions 
before  in  unmethodically  conducted  houses 
and  imagined  that  hotel  storekeeping  was 
just  that  playful  sort  of  business  every- 
where, until  he  was  installed  In  the  store- 
room of  this  first-class  hotel  and  then  the 
requirements  of  the  new  place  bewildered 
him;  and,  instead  of  blaming  himself  for 
his  want  of  knowledge  of  the  real  duties  of 
the  position,  he  simply  said  in  a  self-com- 
placent way  that  his  darned  luck  had  led 
him  to  a  place  where  they  were  nothing 
but  a  set  of  cranks.  Colonel  Vesey  him- 
self was  employed  in  some  subordinate 
position  in  the  front  part  of  the  house  and 
meant  nothing  in  particular  by  his  random 
remark,  and  Tom  did  not  stop  to  think 
that  the  Colonel's  hotel-keeping  had  not 
been  a  success,  but  had  left  him  in  a  de- 
pendent condition  after  all.  All  Tom  cared 
for  was  to  find  that  somebody  shared  his 
views,  and  made  his  indignation  at  the 
cranky  requirements  of  the  company's 
bookkeeper  seem  perfectly  natural.  Con- 
sequently this  moral  support  from  such  an 
old  hotel  keeper  did  Tom  a  great  deal  of 
harm.  I  had  brought  him  there  myself, 
rather  liking  his  cheerful  disposition  and 
thinking  that  he  could  be  trained  to  become 


a  thorough  hotel  man,  and  this  first-clas» 
hotel  storekeeping  seemed  to  me  to  be  the 
finest  opportunity  a  young  man  could  have 
to  get  a  knowledge  of  the  business  from 
the  very  foundation.  But  there  was  some- 
thing deficient  in  Tom's  nature.  He  was 
lazy.  He  was  too  easily  discouraged. 
Goods  were  sent  in  by  merchants  who  neg- 
lected to  send  the  bills  with  the  goods; 
Tom  declared  he  could  not  enter  the  things 
in  the  receiving  book  when  he  did  not 
know  the  prices.  Such  goods  were  issued 
to  the  different  departments  and  entered  in 
his  issue  book  without  the  cost  prices.  His 
daily  account  of  issues  could  not  be  made 
up  correctly.  Bills  came  in  to  be  paid  and 
he  had  lost  track  of  the  goods,  could  give 
no  account  of  them.  Some  goods  sent  in 
were  billed  twice  over — that  is,  a  bill  would 
come  in  with  the  goods  and  another  tor 
the  same  goods  would  come  in,  either 
through  mistake  of  the  merchants  or  be- 
cause it  was  the  regular  monthly  presenta- 
tion of  bills,  and  most  of  the  time  Tom 
would  enter  the  second  bill  as  well  in  his 
receiving  book,  which  at  the  end  of  the 
month,  when  everything  was  added  up, 
made  it  appear  as  if  he  had  received  a  lot 
of  goods  which  he  could  not  account  for. 
The  company's  bookkeeper,  being  as  bright 
and  keen  as  a  diamond,  never  made  any 
quibbles  about  such  blunders,  as  some 
might  have  done,  by  trying  to  frighten 
Tom  with  the  threat  of  making  him  pay 
for  these  goods  which  his  book  seemed  to 
show  that  he  had  received  and  yet  he  could 
not  produce,  for  the  bookkeeper  saw  into 
the  mistakes  at  a  glance,  but  seeing  Tom 
was  but  a  poor  stick  and  a  hindrance  to 
the  account  keeping  instead  of  a  help,  he 
mildly  advised  that  he  be  discharged  and  a 
better  hand  put  in  his  place.  But  Tom 
saved  us  the  trouble.  All  the  fun  of  store- 
keeping  had  vanished;  he  could  not  even 
enjoy  his  novel;  he  dared  hardly  give 
grapes,  pears  and  oranges  to  the  pretty  girls 
in  the  yard  any  more  for  fear  the  "cranks" 
would  go  to  weighing,  measuring  or 
counting  and  ask  him  what  he  had  done 
with  the  stuff.  So  one  morning  he  did  not 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


179 


appear  at  the  store-room.     He  left  the  key 
hanging  on  my  doorknob  and  had  run  away. 
It  is  all  very  well  to  propose  to  "fire  out" 
a  hand  who  is  only  half  a  hand,  but  in 
reality  hotel  keepers,  stewards,  headwaiters, 
housekeepers,  employers,  all  are  very  slow 
to  discharge  the  help  that   they  can   get 
along  with  at  all.     It  may  be  difficult  to 
find  the  better   one   to  put  In  the  place. 
There  is  a  chance  that  the  new  one  will 
prove    worse    with    some    other     failing. 
There   are   really   but   few   trained    hotel 
hands  and  none  harder  to  find  than  real 
experienced   store-room   keepers.      There 
are   plenty   of  hands   always   wanting   to 
work,  whole  helpless  families  of  them,  but 
wl  si  do  they  know?     What  can  they  do? 
Whet  have  they  ever  learned  that  is  use- 
ful?   To  be  a  hotel  storekeeper  it  is  neces- 
sary to  know   something  about   accounts 
and  be  quick  at  figures ;  besides  that  there 
is  some  muscular  labor  to  be  performed. 
We  find  plenty  who  can  work,  but  they 
cannot  keep  books,  and  some  who  can  keep 
books  who  cannot  or  will  not  work  with 
their    hands.      And   a   good    many   poor 
creaturers  seeking  work  say  pitifully,  "But 
I  can  do  anything  you  tell  me  and  shall 
soon   learn."    Yes,  if  we  only  had  time 
and  patience  to  train  every  new  hand  that 
comes   along;  but  we  all  have  our  own 
duties,  tasks  and  anxieties  and  want  to  be 
assisted,  not  to  be  always  giving  assistance. 
However,  a  store-room  keeper  had  to  be 
found,  for  business  was  crowding  every- 
body.   No  male  storekeeper  could  be  found. 
A  young  lady  was  advertising  for  a  situa 
tion  as  assistant  bookkeeper.     I  answered 
the     advertisement,     stating     what     was 
wanted,  and  she  came  and  made  a  favor- 
able impression   at  once.      In   the    large 
cities  there  are  numbers  of  female  store- 
room keepers  in  hotels  and  restaurants  anc 
they  make  a  trade  of  it,  following  the  same 
occupation   for  years.     It  is  suitable  em- 
ployment for  a  woman.     There  is   some 
laborious    work    about  it,    but  generally 
some  help  is  available  to  be  called  in  at  the 
worst  times.      Mr.  Tatillonner — that  was 
the  company's  bookkeeper,  I  did  not  men 


tion  his  name   before   because  I   hate   to 
write  long   words — intimated  that  now  a 
new  person   had   taken   up   the   duties   it 
would  be  wise  to  train  her  just  right,  by 
which   I   understood   very   well    that    he 
wanted  somebody  to  fall  in  with  his  own 
pecial  method  of  hotel  bookkeeping,  and 
classify  matters  and  things  as  they  came  to 
land,  all  ready  for  him  to  transcribe  them 
nto   his  own  system  of  accounts,  and   I 
seconded  him  in  his  first  instructions  and 
explanations  as  much  as  lay  in  my  power 
amidst  a  rush  of   hotel   business   in    the 
icight  of  the  season.    Steward's  and  store- 
teeper's  bookkeeping  is  not  the  hotel  book- 
teeping,  but  only  auxiliary.    The  steward's 
Docks  must  be  right  and  show  faithfully 
the  incomes  and  outgoes  of  his  department 
before  the  hotel  bookkeeper  can  make  out 
whether  the    hotel   is   making  or   losing. 
Technical  hotel  bookkeeping  is  learned  at 
business  colleges,  but  after  that  it  is  found 
that  different  systems  are  followed  in  dif- 
ferent places.     Mr.  Tatillonner  was  a  man 
of  superior  attainments  in  that  line.     He 
was  doing  more  than  keeping  the  books  of 
the  hotel  business,  he  was  the  accountant 
of  all  the  company's  operations  of  which 
the  hotel  was  only  one  part.   He  had  gained 
his  experience  of  hotel  accounts  in  estab- 
lishments belonging  to  stock  companies, 
like  those  famous  hotels  of  Switzerland  or 
those  immense  modern  hotels  of  the  En- 
glish railway  companies,  where  they  add 
up  the  totals  every  day,  make  statements 
to  the  shareholders  every  month  and  make 
public  statements  and  declarations  of  divi- 
dends every  quarter,  and  where  scarcely 
so  much  as  a  match  can  be  taken,  certainly 
not  a  box  of  matches,  without  somebody 
having  to  account  for  it.     So  if  Tom  had 
thought  this  man,  doing  this  hotel's  book- 
keeping with  such  ideas  of  exactitude  in 
his  head,  was  a  "crank,"  it  may  well  be 
supposed  that  Mr.  T.  thought  Tom  was  a 
very  poor  excuse  of  a  young  man,  indeed, 
for  knowing  next  to  nothing.     So  it  re- 
mained now  to  be  seen  how  the  new  store- 
keeper would  get  along  in  thp  seemingly 
difficult  situation. 


180 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


The  difficulty  was  only  seeming,  not 
actual.  In  a  large  establishment  each  de- 
partment is  but  a  part  of  the  whole  ma- 
chine; each  individual  is  a  wheel,  all  hav- 
ing to  go  through  their  own  round  in  their 
stated  time  and  not  disarrange  the  works 
by  stopping  or  trying  to  run  more  than 
their  own  part.  Our  new  storekeeper  had 
to  learn  a  daily  routine  according  to  a  spe- 
cial system,  and  that  once  understood  it 
was  merely  a  matter  of  industry  and  faith- 
ful application  to  duty  and  success  was 
sure;  besides,  Miss  Massinger — that  was 
her  name — liked  her  new  duties ;  she  was 
prirn  and  methodical  in  all  her  ways  and 
had  a  natural  talent  for  bookkeeping. 

In  a  very  large  number  of  hotels,  those 
of  small  or  medium  capacity,  the  store- 
keeper's duties  are  much  mixed,  only  a 
portion  of  the  day  at  stated  periods  being 
devoted  to  receiving  and  issuing  goods.  It 
may  be  in  such  a  case  our  new  storekeeper 
would  have  filled  in  the  intervals  assisting 
in  the  pantry  or  preparing  the  fruit  and 
cake  baskets  for  table,  or  attending  to 
the  milk  and  cream.  In  this  house,  how- 
ever, we  had  ample  employment  for  every 
hour  of  the  day  for  the  storekeeper  in  the 
store-room  itself,  the  very  strict  bookkeep- 
ing required  making  even  more  than  one 
could  attend  to.  Early  every  morning,  or 
soon  after  the  store-room  was  open,  which 
was  half  past  five,  the  country  people  came 
crowding  around  with  marketing  to  sell ; 
that  made  weighing,  measuring,  counting, 
booking  and  giving  orders  properly  signed, 
dated,  stamped  and  figured  up  to  each  one 
to  get  the  pay  on  at  the  office,  the  sums 
varying  from  ten  cents  to  ten  or  twenty 
dollars — as  when  a  load  of  chickens  was 
bought.  At  the  same  time  three  or  four 
hands  from  the  cooking  and  serving  de- 
partments came  with  vessels  for  various 
material,  which  had  to  be  weighed,  meas- 
ured or  counted  out  to  them  and  the 
amounts  entered  in  the  proper  column  in 
the  store-room  issue  book,  charged  to  each 
department,  all  the  issues  during  the  day 
to  be  footed  up  at  night.  When  goods 
came  in  from  the  stores  and  markets,  also 


wood,  coal,  charcoal,  ice,  milk,  all  kinds  of 
stores  and  supplies  in  fact,  the  storekeeper 
had  to  receive  them,  tee  them  weighed  or 
counted  and  entered  the  transaction ;  com- 
pared the  actual  amounts  received  with  the 
bills  sent  in  and  marked  errors,  if  any,  and 
disallowed  the  pay  for  goods  damaged  or 
missing.  Then  these  bills  were  to  be  entered 
in  the  book  the  same  as  the  small  market- 
ings from  the  country  people,  but  perhaps 
in  different  columns.  So  one  thing  with 
another  kept  Miss  M.  fully  employed,  the 
hotel  doing  a  lively  business  at  the  time, 
and  she  seemed  to  be  getting  along  very 
well. 

Still,  at  the  end  of  a  week  I  could  see 
there  was  a  hitch  somewhere,  and  I  was 
anxious  for  various  reasons  that  my  new 
storekeeper  should  give  satisfaction,  so  I 
set  in  to  find  out  what  it  was.  But  she 
hardly  knew.  It  had  just  taken  her  two 
days  and  part  of  the  nights  to  take  stock, 
that  is  to  find  out  at  the  end  of  the  month 
how  much  property  remained  in  the  store- 
room and  give  the  value  of  it  in  figures, 
and  this  was  one  thing  which  had  caused 
Mr.  T.,  the  bookkeeper,  to  give  vent  to 
some  expressions  of  impatience.  Miss  M. 
thought  she  had  been  doing  noble  work  in 
keeping  all  the  books  in  correct  order  and 
allowing  no  errors  to  appear  of  any  de- 
scription in  the  accounts  of  a  week,  but 
she  said  Mr.  Tatillonner  seemed  to  expect 
stock  to  be  taken  every  night,  which  was  a 
physical  impossibility — so  she  thought — 
and  said  he  had  remarked  that  while  he  was 
obliged  for  the  sake  of  his  own  account- 
keeping  to  have  a  statement  of  stock  on  hand 
every  two  weeks, yet  he  should  like  to  have 
her  accounts  so  that  she  could  tell  how  much 
stock  remained  at  any  time  on  an  hour's 
notice,  and  she  added,  laughingly,  she  be- 
gan to  sympathize  with  her  predecessor, 
Tom,  who  had  run  away  from  it.  I  had 
heard  him  myself  speaking  to  her  about  a 
former  manager  of  the  house  who  was  so 
exact  in  his  figures  and  daily  bookkeeping 
that  he  could  tell  every  night  whether  the 
hotel  had  made  anything  that  day  or  lost. 
Some  men  have  a  taste  and  talent  that 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


181 


way.  There  is  nothing  in  common  between 
such  men  as  that  and  such  as  Colonel 
Vesey,  who  despised  figures  altogether, 
yet  it  must  be  owned  the  figuring  men  are 
the  ones  who  carry  on  the  world's  business. 
There  was  another  thing  making  the  new 
storekeeper  feel  incompetent  and  uncom- 
fortable. The  manager  of  the  hotel  him- 
self was  in  the  habit  of  dropping  in,  after 
looking  over  some  bills  perhaps,  and  ask- 
ing what  day  it  was  that  the  last  doz.  boxes 
of  soap  came  in  and  how  many  bars  were 
being  issued  a  day;  when  the  last  tierce  of 
hams  was  begun  of;  how  much  flour  was 
being  used  a  day  or  week,  and  so  forth. 
The  girl  thought  her  part  was  done  when 
she  had  entered  everything  correctly  in 
the  books,  and  had  not  prepared  herself  to 
answer  such  questions  off  hand,  though 
they  could  be  answered  by  an  examination 
of  the  entry  book  or  issue  book,  or  both; 
but  the  stock  taking  seemed  to  her  the  in- 
surmountable difficulty.  "What,"  she 
said,  "roll  about  and  weigh  all  those  bar- 
rels and  boxes,  those  tubs  of  butter  and 
that  greasy  tierce  of  lard  every  night?" 
"  Nonsense,  young  lady,"  I  said,  "nothing 


of  the  sort ;  what  are  your  books  for ;  don't 
they  show  how  much  you  have  given  out 
from  a  barrel  or  box  every  day?"  "  Yes," 
said  she,  "  they  would  if  the  amounts  were 
singled  out  and  added  together  and  sub- 
tracted from  the  box  or  barrel,  but  that 
would  take  forever;  there  wouldn't  be  time 
for  anything  else  all  day.  Oh  dear,"  she 
continued,  about  half  in  earnest,  "which 
road  do  you  think  Tom  took  when  he  ran 
away?  I  may  have  to  go  the  same  route." 
But  I  told  her  there  was  nothing  to  be  dis- 
couraged about;  all  she  needed  was  one 
more  book  specially  ruled,  which  she  had 
not  at  present,  and  I  would  show  her  how 
to  take  stock  every  evening  without  leav- 
ing her  chair,  and  how  to  tell  at  a  glance 
what  day,  and  hour  if  necessary,  any  box, 
barrel  or  package  had  been  taken  in,  and 
how  much  was  used  a  day,  or  in  an  aver- 
age way,  and  it  would  not  take  up  an  hour 
a  day  to  keep  it  posted  to  the  satisfaction 
of  even  such  an  exacting  accountant  as 
Mr.  Tatiilonner  was  proving  to  be. 

Accordingly  I  obtained  a  blank  book  of 
medium  size  and  ruled  it  in  this  way: 


STOHE-HOOM  STOCK  BOOK. 


STORE-BOOM  STOCK  BOOK. 


CABBAGE. 

CHICKENS. 

SOAP. 

SUGAR. 

Q 

a 

aj 

g 

H 

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en 

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Q 
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t/5 

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t 

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,j 

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0 

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S 

£> 

H 

B£ 

x 

X 

W 

Kl 

a 
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tf 

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x 

M 

u 

£ 

D 
1-1 

H 

X 

X 

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of 

LJ 
< 

H 

X 
0) 

H 
M 

1 

1 

1 

600  bars. 

12 

1 

2 

2 

70 

2 

8 

2 

3 

100  head. 

10 

3 

24 

GO 

3 

8 

3 

4 

G 

4 

50 

4 

1G 

4 

240  Ibs. 

25 

5 

8 

5 

108 

40 

5 

8 

5 

35 

G 

8 

8 

40 

G 

8 

6 

45 

7 

G 

62 

7 

18 

25 

5 

7 

10 

530 

7 

25 

110 

8 

8 

8 

8 

0 

9 

9 

9 

10 

10 

10 

10 

11 

11 

11 

11 

12 

12 

12 

12 

18 

13 

13 

13 

14 

14 

14 

14 

15 

15 

15 

15 

16 

16 

1G 

16 

182 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


The  Store-Room  Issue  Book. 

ISSUED  FROM  STORE  ROOM,, 


KITCHEN 


KITCHEN 


t£. 

i/.l. 

,ii. 

,ik. 

Toul 

% 

Dot 

Cts 

"T^T 

•H. 

~ 

ii» 

Tutal 

a 

M 

«.  IS 

Reef,  quartet 

Broufht  Forwan 

i 

Beef,  loin 

Peas,  epht 

Beef,  rib  roast 

Peas 

b<*f,  logjg 

Rice 

Mutton,  iitfto 

Barley, 

Mutton,  racks 

Mackerel 

Lamb 

Pig  's  feet 

Veal,  quartt-i 

Tripe 

Veal,  riclu 

Salt 

Pork.  quarter 

Macaroni 

p      .      |nin 

Corned  beef 

Chu-len?,  irrSH 

Tooguee 

Cbiekene,  live 

Ham 

(   Turke^t!,  Inert 

BacoiD 

Turkeys,  ii*e 

Salt  pork 

Fish  bulk 

Cheeee 

Fi»h    riro^-H 

Oil 

ButWt  table 

IrSIW^F 

Butt.,.  «k,i; 

l*r,l 

Oaimtal 

f  Trucker)  a/hem 

anui 

UilL 

Eee« 

^CtAlf  f  " 

an>i  crfl" 

Sug&r.  j,ow'd 

t  Codfish 

Cracker  dust 

Corn 

Tcmat..e8 

C&l  *'»»>• 

Turnip? 

Parelev 

Carrots 

OlllODS 

Beam,  stnni; 

B*>n».  limn 

(    Beuu.  navy 

( 

f  

Total' 

J 

\ 

THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


183 


The  Store-Room  Issue  Book. 
Date, — _ 1 88 


PASTRY  &   BAKERV               "          DINING  RO.QM  &  PANTRY 

Jg. 

ii« 

,"« 

l» 

T..ta 

4 

Dol 

tts. 

£. 

uiL 

,i. 

ij.» 

Total 

4 

Do!. 

C! 

Flour 

Buttei 

Meal 

5U£;ar,cut  lea 

Lard 

sugar,  powTi 

Butter 

syrup 

Eggs 

Coffee 

Su2ai    brown 

r«. 

..Suaar.  eran 

/hocol.ite. 

.  Sugar,  powj 

Celery 

Milk 

))ivea 

^ice 

'ickles 

Lemons 

'omaloes 

Cream 

Li  »m> 

Gelatine 

jur^ 

.Salt 

^hevst 

Total 

Total 

LAUMDKY  &  LINEN  ROOM. 

OFFICE 

Soap 

Wntiue  i-'sper 

Blueing 

Juvelopes 

Starch 

Cl   papei 

Total 

' 

Total 

HELP'S  HAUL 

RECAPITULATION 

Sugar 

\iichen 

Mil* 

Pastry  and  B. 

Coffei 

Uinmo  Room 

Tea 

^aundr} 

Syrup 

Office 

Buttei 

!el|.'s  Mall 

Tutfi 

Tula    Issue.- 

184 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


The  example  shows  the  half-size  of  two 
pages;  there  must  be  ruled  lines  enough 
to  take  in  the  31  days,  and  the  wider  the 
pages  are  the  more  items  can  be  run  on 
the  same  date  line,  bringing  3  or  4  items  in 
each  division  where  our  example  shows  but 
one.  The  names  of  articles  were  placed 
alphabetically  in  the  pages;  thus  the  first 
page  was  headed  Almonds,  Apples,  the  last 
page  Wine  and  Yeast \  it  was  easy  to  find 
Ice  in  the  middle  of  the  book  when  that  ar- 
ticle was  brought  in  and  weighed,  and  easy 
to  find  Milk  when  that  came  in  varying 
quantities  thrice  or  more  a  day,  and  easy 
to  set  down  the  number  of  gallons  to  the 
left  or  right  of  the  column,  showing  the 
morning  and  evening  receipts.  It  was 
found  that  there  were  200  articles  of  al- 
most daily  issue  to  be  given  in  these  pages, 
such  as  Bacon,  Barley,  Beef,Beans,Brushes, 
Butter,  Buckets;  at  two  to  a  page  it  took 
up  100  pages  or  50  leaves  of  the  book  for 
every  two  or  three  months.  But  still  not 
over  50  different  things  would  be  issued  in 
one  day,  and  some  days  not  nearly  that 
many,  so  that  there  were  often  only  20  or 
30  items  to  be  transcribed  from  the  issue 
book,  and  the  quickest  way  was  for  two 
persons  to  act  together.  The  "Remains"  or 
stock-on-hand  column  was  not  necessarily 
added  up  daily,  but  it  was  found  useful  to 
do  so  as  it  often  reminded  the  storekeeper 


of  an  otherwise  hardly  remembered  duty, 
to  order  more  of  an  article  that  was  getting 
low,  as  in  the  example;  the  addition  and 
subtraction  shows  only  five  chickens  left 
on  hand  for  a  houseful  of  people.  But  the 
best  of  it  was  that  after  this,  the  issues  be- 
ing strictly  attended  to  and  punctually 
entered,  the  amount  of  stock  on  hand,  even 
down  to  the  chicken  house  and  potato 
cellar,  could  be  told  from  this  book  on  an 
hour's  notice,  and  the  time  when  any  spe- 
cial lot  of  goods  had  been  received  could 
be  told  in  a  moment.  Miss  Massinger,  as 
I  have  said,  did  not  hate  figures,  her  tastes 
rather  led  her  to  find  pleasure  in  them,  she 
saw  a  clearer  way  before  her  after  that  and 
I  never  heard  any  further  allusions  to  the 
departed  Tom  and  his  example  of  running 
away  from  the  store-room  troubles.  Mr. 
Tatillonner,  without  knowing  or  caring  to 
know  how  it  came  about,  found  his  only 
cause  of  complaint  removed  and  finds 
much  to  praise  in  the  storekeeper — for  she 
still  holds'  the  position,  being  now  in  the 
second  year — and  they  have  become  great 
friends.  Sometimes  I  think  he  is  teaching 
her  the  higher  branches  of  bookkeeping, 
seeing  how  very  close  they  set  their  chairs 
together  and  how  very  long  it  seems  to 
take  them  to  go  over  one  small  page  of  an 
account  book. 


THE  HEADWAITER  AND  His  TROOPS. 


THE    HEADWAITER. 

The  headwaiter  is  an  important  officer, 
with  forces  under  his  command.  When 
there  is  a  banquet  or  a  large  dinner  the 
guests  are  placed  in  a  position  of  great 
peril,  liable  to  come  to  grief;  for  there  are 
they  famishing;  yonder,  in  the  kitchens, 
bakeries,  pantries,  dish  heaters,  refrigera- 
tors and  milk  rooms,  is  their  dinner,  un- 
concerned hanging  back,  lying  around, 
hiding  away.  And  between  the  dinner  and 
the  guests  are  all  sorts  of  obstacles  and 


barriers,  such  as  busy  hands  and  careless 
hands,  funny  people  and  cross  people,  side 
interests,  selfish  aims,  bribes,  cold  drafts, 
indolence,  and  long  distances.  The  guests 
cannot  go  after  it  themselves,  some  of 
them  occasionally  wish  they  could,  but 
their  success  or  defeat  in  geiting  their  din- 
ner depends  upon  the  headwaiter  and  the 
way  he  manages  the  troops  of  waiters 
under  him. 

If  you  would  find  the  soft  spot  in  the 
nature  of  the  first-class  headwaiter,  take 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


185 


notice  of  his  boys ;  observe  the  good  con- 
dition they  are  in;  how  neat  they  look; 
how  they  are  graded  according  to  size; 
how  promply  they  march  to  their  stations ; 
bow  well  they  know  the  bounds  of  their 
duties  and  how  firmly  and  calmly  they  face 
all  the  odds  that  may  be  brought  against 
them  in  the  way  of  extra  guests  within 
their  own  stations,  without  being  in  the 
least  distracted  by  the  way  the  battle  is 
going  in  other  parts  of  the  dining  room ; 
each  man  holding  his  own  post,  the  com- 
mander alone  looking  over  the  whole  field. 

If  you  would  see  the  headwaiter  put  off 
for  a  moment  that  look  of  superciliousness 
as  he  stands  at  the  dining  room  door,  ap- 
pearing as  if  he  were  too  lofty  to  be  spoken 
to,  speak  to  him  in  the  same  vein  his 
thoughts  are  running  in,  of  the  whole  din- 
ing room,  not  of  any  individual.  His  ap- 
parent superciliousness  is  not  pride  of 
place,  it  is  anxiety.  He  sees  tables  which 
you  do  not,  without  waiters  and  the  guests 
impatient,  and  he  does  not  care  for  you  at 
the  moment,  but  wishes  he  could  see 
through  the  walls  what  those  absent  wait- 
ers are  doing.  And,  besides,  he  is  taking 
note  of  various  strange  faces  at  certain 
tables,  for  he  has  his  part  to  do  in  watch- 
ing that  strangers  pay  for  what  they  get, 
that  beats  and  sneaks  do  not  slip  in  and 
out  amongst  respectable  people  unobserved. 

And,  furthermore,  accord  to  the  head- 
waiter  his  right,  which  the  name  of  the 
office  defrauds  him  of,  remembering  that 
he  is  not  a  waiter,  but  the  head  of  the 
waiters,  the  chief  and  superintendent  of 
the  dining  room  forces,  if  you  wish  for  his 
co-operafion,  his  respect  and  regard. 

And  I  do  not  see  why  you  should  not. 
Service  is,  after  all,  the  principal  thing  in 
a  hotel,  and  the  headwaiter  is  the  master 
of  that  branch.  It  makes  but  little  differ- 
ence how  well  the  feast  may  be  prepared 
in  the  kitchens  if  it  is  not  well  delivered  at 
the  tables.  And  the  headwaiter  becomes 
very  much  of  a  gentleman  through  the 
training  of  his  position  and  the  force  of 
example  in  his  daily  contact.  He  sees  the 
contrast  daily  between  good  breeding  and 


good  manners  and  boorishness  at  the  table, 
and  he  becomes  a  very  good  teacher  of 
deportment  and  a  discriminating  critic  of 
manners  of  the  other  employe's  of  the 
house.  It  is  the  best  proof  of  his  own 
training  that  the  good  headwaiter,  even  if 
hostile  towards  some  other  employe's,  is 
never  loud  in  speech  and  never  makes 
himself  obnoxious  by  violent  demonstra- 
tions. 

The  headwaiter  dresses  well.  He  is 
obliged  to  do  so,  and  is  entitled  to  receive 
a  liberal  salary  for  that  reason.  The  well- 
paid  chef  wears  white  jackets,  caps  ,and 
apions,  and  light  overalls,  all  furnished 
to  him  clean  daily  or  oftener,  the  laundry 
work  being  at  the  expense  of  the  house, 
but  the  headwaiter  has  no  such  privileges. 
For  some  other  employe's  a  fif  een-dollar 
shop  suit  of  clothes  may  be  as  good  as  they 
need  to  wear,  but  the  headwaiter  cannot 
economize  in  that  way.  He  is  obliged,  as 
part  of  his  business,  to  dress  as  well  as  the 
average  of  the  guests  of  the  house,  he  is 
often  a  model  in  that  respect.  He  must 
wear  fine  linen  and  unmaculate  cravats. 
It  really  takes  up  a  considerable  salary 
to  keep  up  a  first-class  headwaiter's  per- 
sonal appearance.  And  in  regard  to  the 
headwaiter's  "tips"  the  subject  is  much 
mixed,  for  it  depends  upon  the  kind  of  man 
he  is  whether  he  receives  much  or  any- 
thing in  that  way,  but  it  is  "a  fact  that  very 
few  white  headwaiters  ever  receive  "  tips," 
unless,  perhaps  in  a  general  way,  the  guests 
make  up  a  purse  at  the  end  of  a  season  or 
at  Christmas ;  and  no  man  in  a  really  first 
class  position  ever  descends  to  divide  tips 
with  the  waiters.  There  are  plenty  cf 
floating  yokes  and  sarcasms  pointing  the 
other  way,  but  they  are  all  in  relation  to 
low  grade  houses.  A  first-class  headwaiter 
cannot  afford  to  sell  his  independent  im- 
partiality for  a  "tip." 

Some  of  them  have  remarked  to  the 
writer:  "If  I  allow  them  to  give  me  a 
dollar,  as  I  used  to  do  when  I  was  young, 
they  think  they  own  me  and  they  want  ten 
dollars  worth  of  favors  and  extra  waiting 
on  for  it.  It  is  all  well  enough  for  the 


186 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


waiters  who  can  stay  with  them,  but  if  half 
a  dozen  people  at  as  many  tables  had  given 
me  a  dollar  each  they  would  work  me  to 
death  calling  for  extra  attentions.  No,  I 
never  take  these  bribes — cannot  afford  to." 
However,  as  before  remarked,  there  are 
different  sorts  of  men  in  the  business,  and 
some  may  be  influenced  by  the  size  of  the 
"tip"  offered,  and  by  other  considerations 
to  be  mentioned  further  on. 

THE  HEADWAITER'S  IMPORTANCE. 

The  degree  of  importance  of  the  head- 
waiter  varies  according  to  the  disposition 
of  different  proprietors,  for  in  some  hotels 
the  latter  likes  to  pass  up  and  down  through 
his  dining  room  and  circulate  among  the 
guests  and  the  headwaiter  may  have  to 
take  a  back  place.  But  in  nearly  all  large 
hotels,  particularly  in  the  cities,  the  head- 
waiter  is  the  head  and  front  of  the  dining 
room,  he  is  the  only  official  the  guests 
come  in  contact  with,  and  with  less  re- 
straint than  if  the  proprietor  himself  were 
present  they  make  known  their  wants  and 
complaints  to  him.  There  is  a  vivid  pic- 
ture of  the  restaurant  headwaiter  in  the 
sketch  of  "A  Russian  Restaurant,"  given 
on  a  former  page.  That  personage  is  met 
with  in  every  European  hotel,  and  is  the 
most  prominent  figure  in  every  stranger's 
recollection  of  the  place.  He  is  called  not 
headwaiter,  but' maitre-d '-hotel.  In  En- 
gland he  is  frequently  called  manager.  In 
this  country  he  is  called  the  inside  steward 
in  the  European  hotel  or  restaurant  or 
club,  and  he  is  the  same  and  his  duties  are 
the  same  as  the  headwaiter  in  the  Ameri- 
can plan  dining  room.  He  it  is  that  meets 
the  visitors,  sees  them  located,  and  if  they 
are  in  any  way  special  objects  of  attention, 
he  is  the  one  who  hears  their  orders  and 
sees  that  they  are  attended  to.  In  Paris, 
recently,  an  incident  occurred  where  two 
men  in  shabby  clothing,  in  the  garb  of 
laborers,  but  with  money  in  their  hands, 
went  into  one  of  the  highest-class  restau- 
rants and  would  have  ordered  their  dinner. 
The  headwaiter  (maitre  d'  hotel)  said, 
"Gentlemen,  your  dress  prevents  your 


getting  any  dinner  here."  They  would 
not  be  refused,  but  the  police  were  called 
in  and  they  were  lawfully  expelled.  In 
England  the  law  would  have  sustained 
them  in  their  demand  for  dinner  in  any 
public  eating  house.  The  same  would  be 
the  case  in  this  country.  The  headwaiter 
in  an  American  hotel  knows  what  to  do  in 
such  a  case.  He  has  obscure  tables,  lower 
end  tables,  middle-class  tables,  upper-class 
tables  and  exclusive  tables,  and  he  assorts 
strangers  as  they  come  and  allots  them  to 
their  tables  according  to  their  appearance 
or  their  deserts  generally,  without  their 
being  at  all  aware  of  the  sorting  process 
they  are  subjected  to.  That  is  what  he  is 
at  the  door  for.  The  dining  room  is  a 
public  one,  but  with  a  good  headwaiter  in 
charge  no  dusty,  travel- stained  or  ill- 
dressed  customer  will  be  put  to  shame  by 
finding  himself  seated  among  the  exclu- 
sives  at  an  upper  table.  This,  however,  is 
only  one  among  the  manifold  duties  of  the 
headwaiter  which  requires  a  special  kind 
of  ability  for  its  efficient  performance. 

THE    HEADWAITER   DOES    NO   WAITING. 

It  seems  worth  while  to  state  this  ex- 
plicitly, there  being  such  a  general  miscon- 
ception in  this  regard.  A  person  at  table 
wants  something  and  seeing  the  head- 
waiter  standing  by  the  door  apparently  idle 
motions  to  him  and  would  send  him  after 
the  thing  desired ;  but  the  headwaiter  can 
not  go,  he  will  send  a  waiter,  but  never 
leaves  the  dining  room  himself,  unless 
there  is  extreme  urgency.  It  Is  true  we 
are  speaking  generally  of  the  larger  and 
more  expensive  class  of  hotels,  and  pro- 
prietors in  country  towns  expect  some- 
thing different,  yet  if  the  headwaiter  does 
his  duty  even  in  a  small  house  where  there 
are  but  five  or  six  waiters,  it  will  be  found 
that  he  does  better  for  the  guests  and  for 
the  reputation  of  the  house  by  remaining 
in  the  dining  room  to  watch;  to  see  who 
comes  in  and  who  goes;  where  they  are 
seated  and  whether  taken  to  seats  reserved 
for  them  or  somebody  else;  to  watch  the 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


187 


wants  of  all  the  guests  at  all  the  tables  and 
not  go  off  on  errands  for  a  few. 

SCARCITY    OF    GOOD    HEADWAITERS. 

There  never  can  be  very  many  of  the 
highest  type  of  headwaiters,  the  require- 
ments of  the  position  are  such  that  not 
many  men  combine  all  the  necessary  qual- 
ifications, and  when  a  pioprietor  is  prepar- 
ing to  organize  a  force  for  a  new  hotel  or 
a  resort  house  there  is  nothing  gives  him 
more  anxious  trouble,  if  he  be  not  already 
acquainted  with  his  man,  than  the  selec- 
tion of  a  headwaiter.  The  reasons  for  it 
will  be  apparent  as  we  proceed.  Head- 
waiters  are  officers  in  command  of  a  num- 
ber of  hands  and  it  is  necessary  that  they 
be  able  to  govern  ;  they  are  like  the  centu- 
rions of  old,  commanding  a  hundred  men. 
One  of  the  large  catering  jobs  mentioned 
in  a  former  page  required  the  employment 
of  26  headwaiters;  each  one  had  150  wait- 
ers under  him,  and  each  had  among  them 
his  lieutenants  and  captains.  One  London 
firm  advertised  for  4,000  waiters  for  some 
such  a  big  transaction  and  received  appli- 
cations from  10,000,  whether  waiters  or 
those  who  called  themselves  such.  There 
are  plenty  of  waiters,  but  only  by  selection 
from  great  numbers  can  the  headwaiters 
be  found.  The  proprietor  may  have  his 
dining  room  force  well  organized  when 
something  happens  that  the  headwaiter 
leaves  and  in  the  ordinary  course  with 
almost  any  other  line  of  business  the 
second  waiter  would  take  his  place,  but  it 
is  seldom  so  here.  The  second  may  be 
able,  but  not  good-looking.  It  is  very  de- 
sirable that  the  chief  of  the  dining  room 
should  be  of  good  personal  apperance.  He 
is  the  front  sign  of  the  house;  he  is  the 
man  the  proprietor  puts  forward  to  repre- 
sent himself  In  the  first  meetings  with  the 
guests;  he  is  to  give  the  first  impressions, 
and  they  may  be  lofty  or  low,  buoyant  or 
depressing,  affluent  or  beggarly  in  a  great 
degree,  according  to  the  condition  of  the 
official  who  either  ushers  or  hustles  them 
into  their  seats. 

Tn  the  army  there  is  a  rule  which  shuts 


out  all  men  below  a  certain  standard 
height,  and  if  it  is  bad  for  the  little  men, 
the  rule  is  good  for  the  appearance  of  the 
ranks  on  parade.  Small  waiters  may  do 
well  enough,  but  if  they  run  large  it  comes 
hard  for  a  stumpy  headwaiter  to  play  the 
peremptory  colonel  over  them.  Then  there 
are  some  men  able  enough  whose  counte- 
nance would  turn  milk  sour  if  they  looked 
at  it;  some  so  self-absorbed  that  nobody 
can  receive  good  greating  from  them,  nor 
catch  their  eye  at  table;  some  that  look 
pallid  and  consumptive  or  pictures  of  grief; 
these  are  never  chosen  to  stand  at  the  din- 
ing room  doors.  Then  some  are  built  to 
be  cowboys,  to  roam  the  western  plains, 
rough  in  spite  of  themselves  and  their  good 
'Clothes,  loud  and  obtrusive  without  deli- 
I  cacy  enough  to  be  aware  of  it,  and  these 
are  out  of  place  on  the  carpet,  however 
well  they  may  do  to  marshal  a  battallion 
of  waiters  at  some  great  festival  in  the 
open  fields.  It  is  not  advisable  either  to 
have  a  man  with  .a  glowing  red  nose  and 
coarse,  blotched  face  trying  the  head  waiter's 
role  in  first-class  dining  room ;  his  will  may 
be  good,  but  he  is  out  of  place  also.  And 
some  who  do  not  suffer  under  any  of  these 
disadvantages  of  a  physical  nature  are  defi- 
cient in  other  respects.  The  too-good  man 
will  play  with  his  waiters  and  loses  his  au- 
thority by  placing  himself  on  an  equality 
with  them.  Or  he  spoils  them  by  the  pro- 
miscuous granting  of  favors,  the  letting 
them  do  as  they  please.  Others  are  crabbed, 
capricious  and  unjust.  They  make  rules 
one  day  which  they  change  the  next  day. 
A  waiter  may  be  blamed  and  reprimanded 
by  them  for  doing  something  today,  which 
was  perfectly  right  to  do  yesterday,  and 
thus  they  lose  their  influence  and  useful- 
ness. For  every  sort  of  inefficiency  results 
in  injury  to  the  hotel.  Some  hotels  are  so 
cursed  with  incompetency  in  this  depart- 
ment in  the  midst  of  a  busy  season,  when 
there  is  no  time  for  changes,  that  the  busi- 
ness suffers  perceptibly  and  lasting  damage 
is  done  to  the  reputation  of  the  establish- 
ment. And  because  of  the  narrowness  of 
the  gate  and  the  strict  sifting  of  men  the 


188 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


number  that  gets  through  into  the  first 
class  headwaiter's  ranks  is  small  and 
strictly  first-class  men  are  hard  to  find. 

THE    FOREIGN    HEADWAITER. 

We  have  in  this  country  certain  ways  of 
our  own  of  hotel  keeping  which  may  be 
better  than  any  methods  of  other  lands,  but 
we  also  have  hotels  as  well  as  clubs  and 
restaurants  which  are  conducted  under 
foreign  methods  conformably  to  a  line  of 
conventionalities  not  to  be  learned  in  the 
American  plan  hotel,  and  it  is  necessary  to 
the  making  of  a  thorough  inside  steward, 
maitre  d'  liotel  or  head  waiter  to  see  what 
sort  of  men  they  have  as  well  as  what  they 
do  in  those  establishments.  In  addition  to 
" Monsieur  Mezzofanti "  of  the  "Russian 
Restaurant"  article,  before  referred  to,  we 
have  here  a  sketch  of  another  of  the  high 
school  of  head  waiters: 

"Everybody  knows  Bignon's  restaurant 
in  the  Avenue  de  1'Opera.  It  is  the  rival 
of  the  Maison  Doree,  the  Cafe"  Anglais 
and  the  Lion  d'Or.  One  of  its  pillars  has 
passed  away  in  the  person  of  'Henry',  the 
head-waiter,  who,  being  almost  an  institu- 
tion in  himself,  deserves  a  brief  obituary 
notice.  '  Henry '  has  been  called  the  'soul' 
of  Bignon's  gastronomic  establishment, 
and  so  he  was.  He  had  been  there  for 
twenty-six  years  and  knew  every  foreigner 
and  eve'ry  Parisian  of  mark.  It  was  inter- 
esting to  observe  the  polished  obsequious- 
ness with  which  he  handed  the  menu  to  a 
royal  or  imperial  guest  and  to  contrast  it 
with  the  more  familiar  manner  in  which 
he  tried  to  coax  the  appetite  of  some  blas& 
liabitu€  by  descanting  on  the  merits  of  a 
new  sauce,  or  praising  the  exellence  of 
some  special  dish  of  the  day.  'Henry' 
had  raised  his  profession  of  head  waiter 
to  the  dignity  of  an  art.  He  had  only  one 
rival  'Ernest,'  the  maitre  d' hotel  of  the 
Gate  Anglais,  who  was  also  a  paragon  in 
attending  to  customers.  The  education  of 
no  Paris  waiter  was  supposed  to  be  com- 
plete unless  he  had  learned  to  flourish  his 
napkin,  to  flit  between  tables  and  to  carry 
trays  under  the  guidance  either  of  '  Mon 


sieur  Henry  chez  Bignon '  or  of  '  M.  Ernest,* 
of  the  Gate  Anglais.  Waiters  who  could 
afford  it  are  said  to  have  had  restricted 
meals  at  Bignon's  for  the  purpose  of  study- 
ing '  Henry's '  movements  de  visu,  and  it  is 
quite  probable  that  had  '  Monsieur  Henry  ' 
started  a  conservatoire  for  the  education 
and  bringing  out  of  garcons  and  maitres 
d'hotel  he  might  have  made  a  fortune 
thereby.  Had  the  deceased  maitre  d'hote! 
been  of  a  literary  turn  he  might  have  com- 
piled some  interesting  memoirs.  He  'waited' 
during  the  declining  effulgence  of  the 
Empire,  when  all  Paris  was  mad  with  riot 
and  revelry ;  he  attended  many  a  petit  sou- 
per,  where  champagne  flowed  like  water, 
and  he  must  have  seen  many  a  might* 
magnate  making  a  fool  of  himself  for  the 
beaux  yeux  of.  some  painted  and  powdered 
'creature'  with  an  insatiable  appetite  for 
crayfish  and  an  unquenchable  thirst  for 
choice  crus." 

And  here  is  another: 

"Eugene  is  indispensable  to  the  estab- 
lishments where  the  elite  of  Parisian  gen- 
try dine.  He  knows  all  the  customers,  is 
acquainted  with  their  tastes,  and  with  their 
favorite  subjects  of  conversation.  He  has 
carefully  studied  them,  and  knows  whether 
to  let  Mr.  So-and-So  order  his  own  dinner 
or  whether  to  give  him  the  advantage  of 
his  professional  experience.  Eugene  is 
always  there,  and  watches  the  first  mouth- 
fuls  disappear  with  a  keen  interest.  His 
guest  could  not  possibly  begin  dinner  unless 
Eugene  was  there  to  put  him  in  good  dining 
humor.  A  short  chat  invariably  springs 
up  between  Eugene  and  his  customer. 
Eugene  is  gay,  is  amiable,  and  a  ban  -uivant. 
Accustomed  to  live  in  the  atmosphere  of 
the  most  succulent  dishes,  and  of  the  most 
generous  wines,  he  seems  to  have  taken  the 
good  properties  of  both.  As  soon  as 
Eugene  has  set  one  customer  going,  he 
moves  on  to  another.  He  rarely  takes  any 
notice  of  a  stranger,  disdaining  an  unfa- 
miliar face.  If  an  intruder  calls,  Eugene 
contents  himself  with  a  sign,  'Louis,  attend 
to  monsieur,'  or  '  Casimir,  the  wine-iist  for 
monsieur.'  There  are  some  customers 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


189 


who  will  only  be  served  by  Eugene.  They 
even  prefer  him  to  the  proprietor  of  the 
restaurant,  who  is  often  obsequious  and 
awe-inspiring.  It  is  specially  to  high-class 
parties  that  Eugene  is  indispensable.  Ac- 
cording to  the  appearance  of  the  guests,  he 
knows  what  menu  to  suggest.  He  has 
summed  up  your  revel  at  a  glance,  and 
knows  exactly  how  much  you  want  to 
spend.  He  is  never  present  when  the  bill 
is  presented.  One  is  always  rather  suspi- 
cious of  one's  customer,  and,  not  to  spoil  an 
acquaintance  so  well  begun,  he  leaves  his 
guest  to  wrangle  with  the  waiter.  The  cus- 
tomer pays  and  goes  away  more  or  less  sat- 
isfied; but  he  is  cert lin  to  come  again  on 
the  morrow,  more  attached  and  faithful  to 
the  establishment  than  ever.  And  thus  it 
is  that  Eugene,  after  ten  years'  service,  in  a 
veritable  power  in  the  establishment,  de- 
ferred to  by  the  proprietor  and  feared  and 
envied  by  the  waiters." 

"  He  knows  all  their  tastes  and  favorite 
subjects  of  conversation  "  does  he?  Well, 
headwaiters  hardly  get  to  that  pitch  of 
familiarity  in  this  country.  But  much  de- 
pends upon  the  kind  of  man  he  is.  One 
of  the  present  restaurant  proprietors  of 
Paris  was  started  in  business  for  himself 
through  the  favor  of  some  stock  broker 
customers  who  liked  him.  They  told  him 
of  a  good  speculation  in  stocks — gave  him 
a  pointer — he  took  advantage  of  the  in- 
formation, speculated  and  realized  a  small 
fortune.  But  the  rule  works  both  wa^s. 
Another  headwaiter  at  a  Paris  cafe,  eaves- 
dropping behind  the  chairs  of  a  couple  of 
stock  brokers,  thought  he  had  picked  up  a 
pointer  and  went  and  speculated  on  the 
strength  of  it — for  all  Paris  speculates — 
but  it  proved  that  he  had  "caught  hold  of 
the  wrong  end  of  the  stick,"  and  he  lost 
his  life's  savings,  $30,000.  How  different 
his  case  from  that  of  a  London  boy  who 
was  both  headwaiter,  cook  and  caterer  in  a 
stock  broker's  office.  Some  shares  in  one 
of  the  large  brewing  companies  were  put 
upon  the  market.  This  boy  had  been  for 
a  good  while  a  sort  of  private  caterer  for 
the  brokers'  lunch,  cooking  and  serving  it 


in  a  room  in  the  rear,  making  a  good  profit 
and  saving  his  money.  The  brokers  ap- 
plied for  a  number  of  shares,  as  brokers. 
The  boy  applied  for  a  number  of  shares, 
calling  himself  a  refreshment  contractor. 
There  were  not  enough  shares  to  go 
around,  but  the  brewing  company  gave  the 
preference  to  refreshment  caterers;  the 
boy  got  his  shares,  the  brokers  did  not. 
The  shares  increased  in  value  immensely 
and  gave  the  young  fellow  a  good  start  in 
business. 

IN   AMERICAN   HOTELS. 

If  the  headwaiter  of  an  American  hotel 
is  to  have  time  to  play  the  "  Mezzofanti," 
the  "  Henry,"  or  "Eugene,"  and  go  around 
from  table  to  table  chatting  and  so  forth, 
trying  to  make  every  guest  feel  satisfied, 
it  is  evident  he  must  have  a  lieutenant,  a 
second  or  assistant  headwaiter  to  remain 
at  the  door,  and  whether  for  that  or  other 
reasons  most  headwaiters  do  appoint  such 
an  assistant,  but  not  all.  Somebody  inquir- 
ing of  a  trade  paper  some  time  back  what 
were  the  duties  of  the  headwaiter  received 
the  following  reply,  which  we  will  examine 
and  comment  upon: 

"A  headwaiter's  berth  in  a  first-class 
establishment  is  no  sinecure.  The  man 
who  accepts  it  takes  upon  himself  many 
responsibilities  little  realised  by  the  pat- 
rons. He  appoints  one  or  more  men  under 
him  who  are  called  captains.  It  is  their 
duty  to  see  that  the  waiters  arrive  on  time 
each  morning  and  to  put  the  dining  room 
in  order  for  breakfast.  The  silver,  care- 
fully put  away  under  lock  and  key  at 
night,  is  recounted  and  rubbed  with 
chamois  and  either  placed  on  the  tables  or 
on  sideboards  in  the  dining  room.  The 
glassware  is  carefully  wiped  and  polished. 
The  linen  is  brought  up  from  the  laundry 
and  counted  to  see  that  it  compares  with 
the  laundress's  account.  The  chairs  and 
tables  are  thoroughly  cleaned  and  dusted. 
Windows  and  globes  must  be  washed,  the 
butter  cut  or  molded  into  forms  and  the 
castors  and  salt  cellars  washed  and  refilled. 
Every  thing  must  be  in  place  before  the 


190 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


arrival  of  guests.  The  headwaiter  sees  at 
a  glance  if  the  work  has  been  properly 
done.  He  inspects  the  castors  to  see  that 
fresh  oil  has  not  been  put  into  cruets  hold- 
ing stale  oil.  He  lectures  the  men  under 
him,  tells  them  of  the  complaints  made  by 
guests  the  day  before,  and  warns  them  not 
to  repeat  the  offenses.  He  details  each 
•waiter  to  attend  to  a  certain  number  of 
tables,  and  when  the  breakfast  hour  arrives 
he  throws  open  the  great  doors  of  the  din- 
ing room  and  greets  each  guest  that  enters 
with  a  familiar  good  morning.  Regular 
guests  who  are  hard  to  please  come  under 
his  personal  supervision.  The  guest  who 
objects  to  drinking  cofiee  unless  it  is  pre- 
pared a  certain  way  and  the  man  who  will 
not  eat  unless  served  a  dainty  not  on  the 
regular  bill  of  fare  are  both  made  happy  by 
this  diplomat.  He  convinces  each  guest 
that  they  have  received  a  dish  which  he  had 
prepared  for  them  only,  and  he  tries  to 
convey  the  idea  how  few  there  are  who 
receive  the  personal  attentions  of  the  chief 
of  the  dining  room.  His  policy  not  only 
pleases  but  it  adds  to  his  bank  account." 

The  one  giving  the  reply  starts  in  by 
speaking  of  the  duties  in  a  first-class  es- 
tablishment, yet  in  several  particulars 
shows  that  he  refers  to  hotels  of  the  me- 
dium class.  He  says,  for  instance,  that  the 
headwaiter  details  each  waiter  to  attend  to 
a  certain  number  of  tables,  when  it  is  well 
known  that  one  waiter  cannot  attend  to 
any  great  number  of  tables,  in  fact  one 
waiter  to  one  table  is  the  rule.  However, 
in  times  of  dull  business,  when  a  few 
guests  come  straggling  in  at  intervals,  one 
waiter  might  attend  to  two  or  three  tables. 

He  says,  also,  that  the  headwaiter  ap- 
points one  or  more  men  under  him  who 
are  called  captains.  In  fact,  if  the  head- 
waiter  appoints  any  captains  he  will  have 
at  least  two,  one  for  each  watch ;  if  there 
are  more  than  two  watches  of  waiters — as 
in  a  railroad  eating  house  or  a  cafd  there 
may  be — there  will  be  a  captain  over  every 
watch. 

He  says  again  that  the  windows  and 
globes  must  be  washed,  the  butter  cut  or 


moulded  into  forms  and  the  casters  washed 
and  refilled,  also  the  glassware  carefully 
wiped  and  polished. 

Now,  all  this  is  called  side  work,  and  it 
all  depends  upon  what  terms  the  waiters 
are  hired  upon  whether  they  do  side  work 
or  not,  or  whether  they  do  a  certain  part 
and  not  the  other  part.  In  most,  if  not  all, 
first-class  hotels,  there  are  regular  window 
washers  outside  of  the  waiters,  and  the 
butter  is  cut  and  moulded  by  the  pantry 
girl  in  the  pantry,  the  glass  is  washed  and 
polished  by  another  hand  in  the  glass 
pantry.  It  is  not  the  intention  that  the 
waiters  shall  have  idle  times  and  the  less 
to  do,  but  it  is  supposed  and  so  managed 
that  they  shall  have  all  they  can  do  at 
their  proper  business  of  waiting  at  table. 
Moreover,  they  are  required  to  be  scrupu- 
lously neat  and  clean  and  are  not  expected 
to  do  any  side  work  that  will  soil  their 
clothes.  They  do,  however,  count  the 
silver  at  night  under  the  eye  of  the  captain 
of  the  watch,  after  it  has  been  washed  and 
dried  in  the  glass  pantry,  and  they  take  it 
out  of  the  silver  closet  or  safe  next  morn- 
ing and  polish  it  before  it  goes  on  the 
tables.  They  do  dust  the  tables,  mirrors, 
sideboards  and  chairs,  prepare  the  bowls 
of  broken  ice  and  do  all  that  belongs  in  the 
dining  room.  The  remainder  of  the  quo- 
tation is  "  all  so  "  and  calls  for  no  remark. 
The  motive  for  commenting  upon  any  of  it 
is  to  say  that  stewards,  headwaiters  or  pro- 
proprietors  sending  perhaps  to  a  distance  for 
first-class  trained  waiters  and  perhaps  pre- 
paying their  fares,  are  liable  to  be  surprised 
and  disappointed  when  they  arrive  by  their 
refusal  to  do  "side  work."  It  is  not  in- 
tended to  say  that  they  ought  not  to  do 
such  work ;  merely  to  let  it  be  known  what 
may  be  expected  of  waiters  brought  on 
from  the  most  prominent  hotels  and  re- 
sorts. Here  is  another  quoted  paragraph 
to  the  point: 

"Mr.  F.  P.  Thomson,  whose  resignation 
as  headwaiter  at  the  Vendome  has  already 
been  made  known  through  the  columns  of 
tha  Boston  Hotel  Gazette,  will  during  the 
coming  winter  manage  what  is  probably  to 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


191 


be  the  largest  waiting  force  of  men  ever 
gathered  in  the  hotel  business  under  one 
head,  in  his  new  position  as  head-head- 
waiter,  so  to  speak,  at  the  three  hotels, 
Ponce  de  Leon,  Alcazar  and  Cordova,  St. 
Augustine,  Fla.  At  the  first-named  hotel, 
which  is  to  open  about  Christmas,  he  will 
have  under  him  150  men,  at  the  Alcazar, 
opening  about  Thanksgiving  time,  50  men, 
and  at  the  Cordova,  to  open  on  January  i, 
75  men.  While  the  majority  of  these  men 
are  to  be  gathered  from  Boston,  New 
York  and  Philadelphia,  some  of  his  head 
assistants  have  already  been  engaged." 

It  is  not  likely  that  any  of  the  above 
mentioned  force  of  waiters  would  hire 
themselves  to  do  "side  work"  between  their 
hours  of  table  waiting,  but  an  ;ngst  the 
many  classed  as  waiters  there  may  be  some 
specially  hired  for  "side  work"  employ- 
ment. At  the  same  time  it  is  to  be  dis- 
tinctly understood  by  waiters  that  in  the 
great  majority  of  smaller  hotels  the  waiters 
do  and  must  take  off  their  jackets  and  di- 
vide up  the  work  amongst  them — some  fill 
the  castors,  some  wash  glass,  others  pre- 
pare the  celery  for  table,  mould  the  butter, 
clean  windows,  scrub  porches,  even  help 
in  the  garden,  gather  fruit  and  peas,  and 
then  help  in  the  kitchen  by  shelling  peas, 
picking  strawberries  and  the  like.  Then 
again,  they  frequently  in  the  advance  of 
the  season  do  all  these  things  in  the  way 
of  helping  to  save  expenses  while  the  busi- 
ness is  dull,  but  drop  them  and  quite  give 
up  all  such  work  later  when  they  have  all 
they  can  do  in  a  day  to  wait  on  the  hun- 
dreds of  guests.  These  things  should  be 
thought  of  when  waiters  are  engaged  and 
a  distinct  understanding  had  in  advance. 
It  may  save  disputes  and  strikes  and  quit- 
ting of  much  needed  help  at  the  busy  time 
when  it  is  hard  to  replace  them  with 
others. 

ORGANIZING   THE    TROOPS. 

The  headwaiter's  duties  have  now  been 
pretty  clearly  outlined,  his  relations  to  the 
steward  and  chef  having  been  defined  in 
the  first  part  of  this  book.  And  the  differ- 


ence betwixt  a  front  view  and  an  inside 
view  may  be  seen  by  reference  to  the  ex- 
tracts concerning  the  foreign  headwaiter, 
where  the  writers  regard  only  the  person- 
ality of  the  particular  "  Henry "  or  "  Eu- 
gene," his  pleasing  presence  and  his  chat, 
without  the  least  intimation  in  their  re- 
marks that  at  the  same  time  "Eugene"  is 
chatting  so  pleasantly  with  them  at  their 
table,  he  is  thinking,  probably,  about  a 
waiter  at  the  most  remote  table  in  the 
room,  where  perhaps  a  family  just  arrived 
has  been  seated  and  requires  attention, 
and  divide  his  thoughts  with  some  other 
critical  customer  in  quite  another  direction. 

WAITER'S  UNIFORMS. 

The  first  step  in  organization  for  the 
headwaiter  is  to  dress'his  waiters  all  alike 
— they  must  have  jackets,  cravats,  slippers 
and  aprons.  Ordinarily  they  have  only 
one  jacket,  a  black  alpaca  with  bright 
buttons,  buj  in  some  of  the  most  stylish 
houses  the  waiters  appear  in  white  jackets 
at  dinner  and  black  at  the  other  two  meals. 
This  necessitates  their  owning  two  jackets, 
and  puts  the  laundry  work  of  the  jackets 
upon  the  hotel.  For  the  waiters  have  to 
buy  their  jackets  and  own  them.  The 
hotel  buys  a  lot  of  assorted  sizes  at  the 
manufactories  where  all  sorts  of  uniforms 
are  made,  and  each  waiter  when  he  hires 
must  buy  one  of  them  and  pay  for  it  in 
installments.  If  the  jacket  cost  four  dol- 
lars the  waiter,  when  his  time  is  made  up 
on  the  time  book,  will  have  one  or  two 
dollars  of  his  wages  stopped  each  month 
till  it  is  paid  for.  The  same  thing  is  done 
with  light  patent  leather  slippers,  the  hotel 
buying  them  by  the  box  and  selling  to  the 
waiters  at  cost.  White  cravats  cost  but 
little  and  are  usually  furnished  free  by  the 
hotel,  as  well  as  aprons,  which  both  go  to 
the  laundry  through  the  same  routine  as 
other  white  goods,  to  be  counted  out  and 
counted  in  each  morning,  as  indicated 
above.  The  waiters  must  provide  them- 
selves with  dark-colored  or  black  pants  of 
decent  appearance,  but  at  the  same  time 
the  waiters'  aprons  are  made  of  such  ample 


192 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


dimensions  they  almost  entirely  cover  the 
wearer  down  to  his  bright  slippers. 

TELLING   OFF   THE    WATCHES. 

When  they  are  all  in  uniform  the  head- 
waiter  draws  them  up  in  line  like  soldiers 
in  the  dining  room  and  assorts  them  ac- 
cording to  size.  The  two  tallest  are  told 
off,  each  to  head  a  watch,  then  the  next 
two  and  so  an  to  the  shortest,  who  brings 
up  the  rears  of  the  two  companies.  After 
that  each  waiter  has  his  number  and  al- 
ways takes  the  same  place  in  the  ranks  at 
the  muster  before  and  after  each  meal.  In 
hotels  where  there  are  many  waiters  they 
wear  their  number  either  on  a  metal  badge 
or  ribbon,  one  intention  of  this  Is  to  enable 
a  guest  to  identify  any  waiter  he  may  have 
to  make  complaint  of. 

The  captains  of  the  watches  are  not 
choosen  for  their  stature,  but  for  their  su- 
perior ability  and  reliability,  their  habitual 
punctuality  and  steady  conduct.  They 
receive  one  or  two  dollars  per  month  more 
than  the  rank  and  file  and  get  the  best 
tables  to  wait  on.  They  take  their  places 
at  the  head  of  the  squad  when  marching 
to  or  from  the  dining  room,  except  in  the 
case  of  there  being  a  second  headwaiter, 
when  he  heads  one  of  the  watches  and  the 
captain  marches  in  his  numbered  place  in 
the  ranks. 

There  are  other  waiters  under  the  head- 
waiter's  control  who  do  not  come  into 
these  dining  room  watches ;  they  are  in  the 
officers'  dining  rooms,  nurses'  and  child- 
ren's ordinaries,  etc.  They  generally  are 
required  to  wear  the  same  uniform  and  are 
inspected  and  governed  by  the  second 
headwaiter  or,  in  the  largest  hotels,  by  the 
superintendent  of  the  particular  depart- 
ment. In  the  dining  room,  if  there  be  fifty 
tables  in  use,  there  will  be  about  that  many 
waiters  in  line  in  the  two  watches.  As  the 
business  contracts  some  of  the  tables  will 
be  unused  and  the  waiters  are  dismissed. 
In  the  greater  number  of  hotels  the  waiters 
are  from  twenty  to  thirty — ten  to  fifteen 
in  a  watch. 


WATCH    ON — WATCH   OFF. 

Both  watches  of  waiters  wait  on  the 
tables  every  day,  but  only  one  watch  does 
the  side  work,  the  cleaning,  dusting  and 
preparation,  the  late,  last  minute  waiting; 
the  extra  waiting  on  late  arrivals — that  is, 
those  on  watch  are  never  free  all  dav,  but 
are  within  call,  ready  for  anything  that 
may  occur  unusual  besides  their  regular 
duties,  while  the  others  are  free  between 
meals,  only  being  required  to  report  in 
time  for  their  own  meals  and  for  inspec- 
tion. In  fact,  however,  when  the  hotel  is 
doing  a  business  anywhere  near  its  full 
capacity  the  intervals  between  meals  are 
very  short,  and  the  freedom  does  not 
amount  to  more  than  is  necessary  for  the 
waiters  to  attend  to  their  clothing  and  keep 
up  their  respectable  and  cleanly  appearance 

The  watch  that  is  "on"  to-day  will  be 
"off"  to-morrow.  The  object  of  having 
captains  is  to  have  some  one  to  get  the 
waiters  all  together.  The  trifle  of  author- 
ity and  extra  pay  bestowed  upon  the  cap- 
tains makes  them  zealous  and  watchful  of 
the  others.  Common  waiters  are  dilatory 
and  unpunctual ;  they  may  be  fined  in  some 
places  for  punishment  for  being  late,  but 
that  is  poor  satisfaction  for  the  head  of  the 
dining  room  when  he  wants  to  see  every 
man  in  his  place,  and  it  is  better  to  have  a 
captain  interested  in  hurrying  them  up. 

The  watch  that  is  off  to-day  has  to  come 
early  to  breakfast.  Almost  every  head- 
waiter  claims  the  privilege  of  saying  when 
and  how  his  watches  of  waiters  shall  eat 
their  meals,  and,  besides  that,  there  is  so 
much  difference  in  hotels  and  their  meal 
times  that  no  rule  will  hold  good  for  any 
large  number  of  houses;  yet,  for  example, 
let  us  say  the  "off"  watch  must  be  at  table 
to  breakfast  by  six.  The  "  on  "  watch  does 
not  eat  until  two  hours  later,  but  goes  to 
the  dining  room  and  there  dividing  them- 
selves to  the  different  tasks ;  they  dust  the 
chairs,  etc.,  get  out  the  silver  and  place  it; 
place  the  bills  of  fare  around,  bring  in 
water  and  bowls  of  broken  ice.  The  butter, 
cream  and  fruit  are  already  prepared  for 
them  in  the  pantry.  Fifteen  minutes  be- 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK 


193 


fore  the  time  for  opening  the  doors  the 
other  watch  of  waiters  must  be  ready  in 
the  hall.  The  headwaiter  makes  his  ap- 
pearance and  the  waiters  in  sight  join  those 
in  the  hall  outside.  At  the  tap  of  a  bell 
both  watches  march  in  in  separate  squads ; 
one  turns  to  the  right,  the  other  to  the  left, 
they  march  down  between  the  tables  and 
around  and  form  a  line,  still  in  separate 
squads,  in  front  of  the  headwaiter  for  his 
inspections.  He  then  calls  the  roll  and 
marks  who  are  absent,  then  notices  whether 
they  all  have  their  white  cravats  on, 
whether  their  jackets  are  whole  and  well 
brushed,  whether  their  shoes  are  free  from 
mud,  and  then  if  he  has  anything  to  say  to 
them  he  says  it.  Next,  at  the  tap  of  his 
small  silver  bell  the  waiters  again  face 
right  or  left,  march  between  the  tables,  and 
each  one  stops  at  his  own  station.  Then 
the  dining  room  doors  are  thrown  open 
and  the  meal  begins. 

It  is  the  duty  of  the  captains,  while  wait- 
ing on  their  own  tables,  still  to  keep  a  side 
look  out  and  report  breakages,  the  begin- 
ning of  quarrels  and  the  breaking  of  vari- 
ous minor  rules  and  report  them,  placing 
the  blame  upon  the  real  offenders. 

Supposing  the  dining  room  doors  close 
at  half  past  nine,  then  half  an  hour  before 
that  time,  or  as  near  that  as  the  circum- 
stances will  permit,  the  off  watch  takes 
charge  of  all  the  tables;  the  captain  of  the 
"on"  watch  passes  along  and  gathers  his 
men  and  they  march  in  regular  order,  but 
quietly,  by  the  outside  tables  and  out  to 
breakfast.  Half  an  hour  later  they  return 
in  the  same  manner,  and  a  few  minutes 
after,  or  as  soon  as  the  dining  room  is  clear 
of  guests,  except  perhaps  two  or  three 
whose  waiter  remains  at  his  post,  the  head- 
waiter  taps  his  bell  and  both  watches  march 
up  to  the  line  occupied  before  breakfast. 
After  a  few  remarks  the  chief  gives  an- 
other bell  tap  and  the  boys  file  out  of  the 
dining  room,  going  through  the  regular 
motions  between  tables  as  before;  the  "off" 
watch  goes  off  until  the  next  meal ;  the 
"on'1  watch  at  the  sign  with  the  napkin  of 
the  captain  disbands  at  the  door,  peels  off 


jackets  and  goes  about  cleaning  (and 
thrice  a  week  scrubbing)  the  dining  room 
and  doing  the  other  side  work. 

LET    THE   HKADWAITERS    TELL   IT. 

There  are  some  things  about  the  head- 
waiter's  position  which  only  the  headwait- 
ers  themselves  can  properly  depict,  and 
any  one  who  may  be  in  training  for  such  a 
responsible  situation  may  find  some  perti- 
nent hints  in  the  following: 

"  Keeping  seats  for  regular  boarders  in  a 
hotel  dining-room  is  one  of  the  unpleasant 
features  attached  to  a  head  waiter's  busi- 
ness. There  are  some  persons  who  insist 
on  sitting  in  one  place  and  who  won't  sit 
anywhere  else.  To  keep  an  eye  on  these 
particular  boarder's  seats  and  see  that  no 
outsiders  slip  into  them  keeps  a  fellow 
hustling.  If  some  one  does  happen  to  gei 
into  one  of  these  coveted  seats  and  the  per 
son  who  claims  it  as  his  own  comes  in  and 
finds  it  occupied,  there  is  sure  to  be  a  row, 
and  the  poor  waiter  always  gets  the  worst 
of  it.  I  don't  blame  a  person  for  wanting 
to  occupy  the  same  seat,  but  there  are  times 
when  it  is  impossible  to  keep  it  vacant. 
For  instance,  if  a  party  of  six  or  seven 
come  in  they  have  to  be  seated  at  one  table. 
At  this  same  table  there  may  be,  perhaps, 
four  or  five  regular  boarders'  seats,  and 
when  the  latter  come  in  I  have  to  put  them 
somewhere  else.  Then  they  get  mad,  of 
course,  kick  to  the  proprietor  about  the 
"shiftless  and  unsystematic  manner"  in 
which  the  dining-room  is  run,  and  finally 
the  waiter  hears  from  the  office.  Someti- 
mes, also  a  person  will  slip  into  the  dining- 
room  unnoticed  by  the  waiter,  and  will 
drop  into  a  seat  nearest  him.  Once  seated 
it  is  rather  embarrassing  to  ask  him  to  re- 
move, although  you  know  that  he  is  occu- 
pying a  seat  of  some  regular  boarder  who 
is  liable  to  drop  in  at  any  moment.  I  have 
known  persons  to  corne  into  a  dining-room 
and  finding  their  seats  occupied,  go  out 
again  and  not  come  back  until  it  was  vacant. 
I  also  knew  of  a  case  in  which  a  man  left 
the  hotel  at  which  he  was  boarding  because 
on  two  successive  occasions  he  had  entered 


194 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


the  dining-room  and  found  his  seat  occu- 
pied. Women  are  more  particular  about 
their  seats  than  the  men.  They  always 
want  to  sit  where  every  one  in  the  dining- 
room  can  see  them,  especially  pretty  wo- 
men, or  young  women  that  are  well  dressed. 
No,  a  head  waiter's  life  is  not  a  happy  one. 
He  stands  very  little  show  in  getting  tipped 
like  the  regular  waiters,  because  he  cannot 
be  of  so  much  service  to  the  person  who 
wants  extra  attention  in  the  shape  of  tender 
steaks,  etc.,  and  who  wants  to  be  waited  on 
in  apple  pie  order." 

ANOTHER    HEAD-WAITER   TALKS. 

"Perhaps  you  think  me  wholly  ornamental — 

A  sort  of  figure-head  to  carry  style; 
That  for  use  I  am  not  worth  a  continental — 

That  I'm  only  here  to  wave  and  scrape  and  smile. 

"When  you  come  to  run  a  force  of  fifty  waiters, 

Fourteen  hours  out  of  every  twenty-four. 
Rushing  'round  with  plates  of  beef  steak  and  per- 

taters, 

Feeding  cranks  who  want  the  earth  —  and  some- 
thing more. 

"You  will  understand  the  situation  better 
And  allow  it's  quite  an  act  to  carry  grace, 

With  a  waiter  who's  a  kicker  and  a  fretter, 
And  a  boarder  snarling  thunder  in  your  face. 

'Yes,  I  have  to  keep  the  mashers  and  the  ladies 
In  respective  corners  rather  far  apart; 

For  the  husbands  sometimes  take  to  raising  hades 
With  your  uncle,  when  the  masher  plies  his  art. 

"There's  the  'reg'lar'  from  whose  little  cosy  corner 
I  must  keep  the  bumptious  transient,  if  I  die; 

Else  he  bridles  up  and  surely  is  a  'goner' — 
For  the  place  is  as  the  apple  of  his  eye. 

"There  are  times  when  waiters  get  a  trifle  'nervy,' 
And  'the  razors  go  a  flying  through  the  air;* 

This  would  hint  that  a  head-waiter  has  to  serve  a 
Short  apprenticeship  to  Sullivan  or  Hyer. 

"At  the  mountains   I'm  engaged  in  the  summer 
season 

And  in  winter  I'm  in  balmy  Flor-id-a; 
That  I'm  very  fond  of  sunshine  is  the  reason 

For,  j'ou  see,  sir,  that's  the  time  for  making  hay. 

"  'Do  we  ever  take  a  tip?"  sir,  you  inquire 
Well  — that's  a  curious  thing  for  you  to  say 

'Do  we  sometimes  shift  the  waiters  round  and  try  a 
Little  divvy  scheme  to  help  to  make  it  pay  ?' 

"Why!  Of  course  not!  We  are  hardly  what  you 
deem  us 

To  such  little  things  we  never,  never  stoop. 
Ah!  Indeed,  sir!  Thank  you  kindly — Mr.  Remttt, 

Get  the  gentleman  a  warmer  plate  of  soup." 


It  is  seldom  indeed  that  head  waiters  are 
named  in  print.  There  are  oceans  of  print 
about  waiters  in  general,  scoldings,  abuse, 
jokes,  sarcasms,  complaints  and  lectures, 
but  the  general  public  and  the  general  run 
of  writers  do  not  know  that  there  are  head- 
waiters,  and  that  they  have  much  to  do  with 
the  conduct  of  waiters  through  their  good 
or  bad  management.  Now,  having  paid 
my  respects  to  the  headwaiters  in  so  many 
columns,  I  shall  have  something  to  say 
concerning  waiters  at  home  and  abroad, 
and  waiters'  tips,  and  a  head  waiter,  who 
wrote  to  a  newspaper  shall  introduce  the 
subject: 

"A  head  waiter  referring  to  a  recent  edi- 
torial in  this  paper  writes  among  other 
things:  'Waiters  are  not  born,  they  are 
just  what  the  head  waiter  makes  them, 
good  or  bad ;  and  what  he  drills  into  them 
whether  they  become  proficient  or  not.  It 
would  be  a  good  idea  for  headwaiters  to 
adopt  Mr.  Whitehead's  plan  and  that  is, 
when  they  take  charge  of  a  room  they  are 
held  responsible  for  the  efficiency  of  the 
service,  to  have  it  understood  that  they 
must  hire  all  of  their  help,  no  matter  how 
small  the  number;  if  you  don't  you  are 
liable  to  make  a  failure  of  it.  Make  it  a 
rule  to  be  particular  of  the  kind  of  help  you 
hire,  and  don't  take  a  man  who  has  the  name 
of  not  staying  more  than  two  weeks  in 
one  place ;  the  saying,  and  it  is  a  true  one, 
'good  waiters  always  tog  up,1  makes  it  easy 
to  know  them.  Do  not  be  arbitrary  with 
your  men  and  pay  them  off  on  the  slightest 
pretence.  Give  a  good  man  a  chance,  and 
don't  have  the  reputation  that  a  good  waiter 
can't  stay  with  you,  and  that  you  dog  them 
around  to  much.  Treat  your  men  courte- 
ously on  the  street  when  you  meet  them, 
but  don't  be  one  of  the  crowd  on  the  out- 
side, as  that  is  just  what  gets  away  with 
you  in  the  room." 

WHAT   THE    DINING   ROOM   CHIEF   TALKS 
ABOUT. 

It  has  been  mentioned  incidentally  that 
the  head  waiter  has  something  to  say  to  his 
men  when  they  are  drawn  up  in  a  line 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


195 


before  him.  This  is  the  custom  not  uni- 
versally followed.  Some  headwaiters  have 
little  or  nothing  to  say,  call  it  "old-fash- 
ioned" "don't  believe  in  it"  and  so  on. 
Others  have  "the  gift  of  the  gab,"  and  love 
to  talk  even  too  well.  It  seems  very 
sensible,  however,  for  a  chief  having  such 
a  good  opportunity  before  him  to  remem- 
ber the  faults  of  service  he  may  have  seen 
or  heard  of  on  the  previous  day,  and  re- 
prove and  caution  his  waiters  accordingly. 
The  following  does  not  purport  to  be  the 
straight  continuous  talk  of  the  speaker,  but 
is  a  selection  of  pithy  remarks: 

"Mr.  GEO.  F.  BETTS,  headwaiter  at 
Young's  Hotel,  Boston,  gives  his  men  a 
lecture  on  their  duties  every  Monday 
morning.  These  are  among  the  best 
things  he  said  at  a  recent  lecture:  'The 
first  requirement  of  a  waiter  is  a  gentle- 
manly bearing.  No  one  but  a  gentleman 
can  be  a  good  waiter.  I  want  to  speak 
now  about  this  habit  of  passing  around  sub- 
scription papers  among  the  guests  in  aid  of 
the  sick  employse.  You  must  stop  that. 
Never  beg  from  anyone  but  yourselves. 
Now,  in  this  matter  of  serving  wines,  if 
you  don't  happen  to  know  what  glass  to 
use  for  a  particular  wine  ask  some  one.  I 
will  gladly  tell  you.  The  trouble  is  that 
some  men  can't  be  told  anything,  They'll 
never  learn  to  be  waiters.  Now,  if  a  per- 
son orders  a  pot  of  coffee,  don't  bring  up 
cold  milk  unless  it  is  called  for.  Bring  up 
hot  milk  with  coffee  and  cold  milk  with 
tea.  Always  serve  pulverized  sugar  with 
tomatoes,  lettuce  and  cracked  ice  with  cu- 
cumbers, tomatoes,  watermelon,  cantelope, 
and  muskmelon.  Berries  of  course  need 
milk  or  cream  and  pulverized  sugar.  A 
dessert  knife  and  fork  and  powdered  sugar 
should  go  with  all  pastries,  while  a  small 
piece  of  American  cheese  is  in  order  with 
all  kinds  of  pie.  Many  men  never  think 
of  such  a  thing  as  putting  mustard  on  the 
table.  Some  people  like  it.  There  are 
very  few  who  have  yet  learned  that  a  boiled 
potato  is  proper  with  baked  beans.  Don't 
cover  the  bread  plate  with  a  napkin.  It 
looks  as  if  there  was  dust  and  dirt  around. 


This  matter  of  laughing  and  fooling  don't 
make  a  waiter.  I  should  stop  it.  Never 
chew  tobacco  and  spit  on  the  door  mats, 
and  don't  gather  in  groups  arond  the  corri- 
dors. Sleeping  on  watches  must  also  be 
stopped.  All  cold  meats  ought  to  be  garn- 
ished with  parsley,  lettuce,  or  celery.  Be 
careful  about  leaving  your  side  towels 
around.  Another  man  comes  along  with 
something  to  wipe,  and  he  don't  know 
whether  it  has  been  laying  there  for  twenty 
seconds  or  twenty  years.  It  is  a  good  plan 
not  to  wipe  your  face  with  an  apron  nor 
towel,  nor  be  too  familiar  with  the  proprie- 
tor. I  never  allow  myself  even  to  drink  a 
glass  of  lemonade  with  him.  Do  your 
drinking  in  the  proper  place.  If  you  don't 
study  these  little  things  you'll  always  be 
down,  as  sure  as  you're  born.  Always  re- 
member that  I'm  the  boss,  too.  I'm  hired  to 
be  headwaiter,  and  I  mean  to  act  it  out.  If 
I  refuse  to  excuse  any  man  for  the  day 
don't  make  the  mistake  of  going  to  the 
Captain,  because  I'm  ahead  of  the  Captain. 
Never  open  a  boiled  egg  for  a  customer 
unless  ordered.  If  you  see  that  a  guest  of 
the  house  wishes  to  be  waited  on  by  a  par- 
ticular man  with  whom  he  is  acquainted, 
always  give  way  politely  and  without  con- 
fusion. A  waiter  should  always  keep  his 
eyes  cast  toward  the  door  instead  of  out  of 
the  window.  Be  careful  in  serving  any 
kind  of  'fizz'  wines  to  pour  them  out  care- 
fully. In  serving  old  wines  never  wipe  off 
the  dust  from  the  bottle.  Never  wipe  off 
the  label,  and  be  sure  to  show  the  label  to 
the  gentleman,  in  order  that  there  may  be 
no  mistake.  You  are  all  supposed  to  wear 
dark  pants,  with  white  apron  and  necktie. 
No  colored  shirts  are  allowed.  Your  boots 
must  be  blacked  from  this  day  out.  You 
are  excused." 

Another  chief  indicates  his  ideas  of  a 
talk  in  training  waiters  as  follows: 

"What  constitutes  a  good  waiter?  A 
good  disposition ;  a  thorough  knowledge  of 
his  duties,  with  the  quality  of  being  polite, 
attentive  and  obliging  at  all  times  and 
under  all  circumstances;  a  correct  idea  as 
to  coursing  and  serving  dinner  parties,  in- 


196 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


eluding  the  different  wines  which  go  with 
each  course.  Neatness  and  cleanliness  are 
indeed  necessary  passports,  and  argue 
strongly  in  a  waiters  favor  when  applying 
for  a  position.  Waiteis  are  often  judged,  or 
as  the  expression  goes,  'sized  up,'  by  their 
personal  appearance,  thus  'the  apparel  oft 
bespeaks  the  man,'  and  nine  times  out  of 
ten  secures  him  a  position.  First-class 
waiters  take  great  pride  in  their  toilet ;  spot- 
less linens  are  pre-eminently  one  of  the 
first  requisites.  Hair  nicely  combed,  cravat 
neatly  tied  and  adjusted,  shoes  brightly 
polished  (shoes  without  heels;  I  am  op- 
posed to  slippers),  and  clean  aprons  and 
clean  towels;  also  short  and  clean  finger- 
nails; supposing  jackets  and  trousers  to  be 
black  or  of  a  dark  color,  corresponding  one 
with  the  other,  and  no  rents  in  them,  a 
waiter  is  presentable  and  qualified,  so  far 
as  his  uniform  is  concerned,  for  service. 
Nothing  worries  and  frets  the  headwaiter 
more  than  to  see  a  waiter  come  sneaking 
into  the  dining  room  five  or  ten  minutes 
after  the  doors  are  open.  A  good  'time- 
maker'  is  a  prize  to  the  headwaiter.  Every 
waiter  in  all  well-regulated  dining  rooms, 
should  be  at  his  station  ten  minutes  before 
the  door  opens,  and  inspect  his  table,  see  if 
everything  is  in  its  place,  properly  arranged 
and  perfectly  clean.  A  good  waicer  is  al- 
ways pleasant,  agreeable  and  affable;  al- 
ways strives  to  please,  and  spares  no  pains 
in  his  efforts  to  give  entire  satisfaction.  A 
good  waiter  will  never  contradict  or  hold  a 
dispute  with  aguest,notwithstanding  he  msy 
be  right  and  the  guest  wrong.  Whether 
he  has  made  an  error  or  not,  he  will 
invariably  'plead  guilty  to  the  charge,'  and 
exonerate  or  excuse  himself  in  such  a 
manner  as  will  be  pleasing  and  not  of- 
fensive. 

"The  most  important  feature  in  waiting 
is  to  serve  an  order  according  to  order — 
no  more,  no  less.  If  a  guest  orders  for 
breakfast  fried  potatoes,  breakfast  bacon, 
soft-boiled  eggs,  coffee  and  rolls,  just  that 
number  of  dishes  should  be  served  and  no 
more,  and  no  first-class  waiter  claiming  to 
understand  his  business  will  bring  one 


dish  over.  A  good  and  intelligent  waiter 
keeps  himself  posted  as  to  the  contents  of 
the  bill  of  fare,  so  as  to  readily  give  the 
name  or  explanation  of  any  dish  thereon, 
if  necessary.  A  good  u.emory  is  highly 
essential  in  the  make-up  of  a  good  waiter, 
and  none  can  properly  be  classed  as  such 
with  a  defective  memory.  There  is  noth- 
ing more  provoking  to  a  guest  than  to 
order  poached  eggs  and  be  served  with 
soft-boiled  eggs,  or  to  order  roast  beef  and 
be  served  with  mutton,  or  to  ask  for 
coffee  and  get  tea. 

"A  good  and  conscientious  waiter  will 
not  try  to  bring  in  the  entire  kitchen  for 
the  purpose  of  extracting  the  paltry  fcum 
of  twenty-five  cents  from  a  guest.  A 
first-class,  painstaking  and  duty-bound 
waiter  can  and  will  accomplish  this  with- 
out resorting  to  such  methods  of  extrava- 
gance, which  are  so  detrimental  to  both 
his  and  his  employer's  interests.  -He  is 
polite,  attentive  and  obliging;  courteous, 
accommodating  and  patient;  fast,  prompt 
and  clean,  when  serving  a  party.  These 
are  the  qualities  that  enhance  his  chances 
for  obtaining  a  fee,  and  when  he  obtains  it 
under  t'.-ese  circumstances  he  has  the 
satisfaction  of  knowing  he  obtained  it 
solely  on  his  merits  as  a  first-class  waiter." 

WAITERS'  DRILL  FOR  A  BANQUET. 

Perhaps  there  is  no  need  of  argument  to 
show  the  advantage  of  such  a  moderate 
amount  of  daily  drilling,  as  has  been  de- 
scribed but  a  few  pages  back.  It  has  the 
same  use  for  a  body  of  waiters  that  it  has 
for  a  body  of  police  or  firemen ;  it  keeps 
them  compact,  makes  them  regular  in 
habits,  makes  them  manageable,  gives  the 
head  man  a  grip  upon  them.  It  would  be 
useful  were  it  only  for  the  muster  and  roll 
call  to  let  him  know  they  are  all  there.  It 
is  very  easy  to  •'  run  such  a  thing  in  the 
ground,"  as  the  saying  is,  and  as  nothing 
ever  escapes  the  funny  men  of  the  news- 
papers we  have  here  an  amusingly  ex- 
aggerated sketch  from  an  English  banquet- 
ing place: 

"  There  was  nothing  of  an  extraordinary 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


197 


character  about  the  dinner  itself,  but  quite 
unusual  pains  were  taken  to  drill  the  army 
of  waiters  engaged  thereat  into  a  proper 
knowledge  of  their  respective  duties.  The 
following  unique  and  novel  handbill,  pre- 
sumably distributed  to  them  by  some  grim, 
scar-disfigured,  veteran  half-pay  sergeant, 
was  handed  to  each  of  the  knights  of  the 
napkin  prior  to  his  undertaking  the  onerous 
and  responsible  duties  of  waiting  upon  the 
Gas  Institute: 

REGULATIONS   FOR   GAS   INSTITUTE 
DINNER. 

Waiters  will  be  divided  into  two  classes,  namely, 
Entree  Men  and  Vegetable  Men. 

ENTREE  MEN  will  be  distinguished  by  wearing  a 
red  ribbon  in  their  left  button  holes,  and  Vege- 
table Men  by  a  white  ribbon. 

WINE  STEWARDS  will  wear  a  blue  and  o.ange  ro- 
sette on  the  top  of  their  left  shoulder.  All  wine 
to  be  paid  for  when  fetched;  money  advanced  for 
this  purpose  at  the  hotel  office. 

SUPERINTENDENTS  will  wear  white  waistcoats,  and 
control  their  tables;  when  quite  ready  for  a  course, 
they  will  signify  it  by  holding  up  their  right 
hands. 

TABLES  are  divided  into  separate  divisions;  each 
table  is  numbered  alphabetically  (A  B  C),  and 
will  have  a  special  staff  appointed  under  the 
charge  of  a  superintendent.  Waiters  are  re- 
quested to  pay  special  attention  to  his  orders. 

ROLL  CALL  in  the  vestibule  at  1.30,  when  each  man 
must  be  present  to  answer  to  his  name,  he  will 
then  be  shown  his  position  at  table,  and  receive 
his  badge,  after  whir  h  he  will  at  once  take  his 
position  until  reviewed.  All  waiters  to  be  in 
their  places  at  3  p.m.,  to  assist  the  guests  to  their 
seats. 

DINNER  SERVICE  regulated  by  the  sound  of  the 
gong.  At  the  first  sound  waiters  at  once  stand 
to  atlention ;  at  the  second  sound  to  proceed  to 
their  respective  serving  tables  and  commence  the 
course. 

SOUP. — At  the  second  sound  of  the  gong  all  wait- 
ers will  advance  to  their  serving  tables  and  serve 
soup. 

All  waiters  change  plates. 

FISH. — At  the  second  sound  of  the  gong  proceed  as 
above;  vegetable  men  must  then  leave  the  room 
and  secure  their  vegetables.  Each  man  will  have 
a  dish  of  peas,  beans  and  potatoes.  Entree  men 
clear  away  dirty  plates. 

JOINTS. — Entree  men  only  serve  joints;  vegetable 
men  to  serve  only  vegetables  and  bread. 

SWEETS. — Hot  pudding  and  sweets  served  together, 
from  the  serving  tables,  by  all  waiters.  All 
change  plates. 


CHEESE. — Entree  men  serve  cheese  and  biscuits, 
and  yegetable  men  lettuce  and  butter. 

N.  B. — Immediately  after  dessert  plates  are  passed 
round,  and  all  dirty  plates  and  silver  removed, 
all  waiters  (except  wine  stewards)  are  to  leave 
the  room  and  attend  to  their  respective  duties, 
arranged  by  the  headwaiter. 

SERVICE  PORTERS  to  bring  in  plates,  meats,  soups, 
etc.,  and  to  clear  their  respective  serving  tables 
after  each  course.  During  service  of  fish  and 
joints,  one  porter  to  remain  at  each  carving  table 
to  serve  gravy,  etc." 

"A  Liverpool  journal  of  the  semi-satir- 
ical order,  called  the  Porcupine,  has  the 
following  amusing  commentary  on  these 
singular  regulations: 

"The  military  spirit  having  been  thus 
introduced  into  attendance  upon  public 
banquets,  we  do  not  see  why  it  should  not 
be  considerably  developed.  It  would  cer- 
tainly add  immensely  to  the  excitement  of 
the  dinner  table,  and  remove  in  a  great 
measure  the  ennui  and  monotony  so  often 
expecienced  when  waiting  for  the  various 
courses,  if  a  stalwart  drill-instructor  in  full 
regimentals  and  ablaze  with  military  deco- 
rations, were  to  stand  in  a  conspicuous 
plrce,  sound  the  assembly  and,  in  stentorian 
accents,  put  the  waiters  through  their  fac- 
ings something  after  the  following  style; 

"Hawn — tree  wait — er-r-rs!  at — tintion! 
Vege — tarble  wait — er-r-rs!  heyesfa — runtl 

"  Shoul — der-r-r — nap — kins! 

"Vege — tarble  wait-er-r-sl  present  ar- 
rums for  the  soup  and  fall  in! 

"Hawn-tree  waiters!  Standatease! 

with  the  ladle! 

"Vege — tarble  wait — er-r-rs!  For — rum 

squa-a-re!  Char-r-r-ge with  the  new 

perta — ties ! 

"Hawn  —  tree  wait — er-r-rs!  for  rum 
fourdeepin-echelons !  Left  har-raf  fa-a-a-cel 
for  the  biled  mutton! 

"Vege — tarble  wait — er-r-rs!  Slop  ar- 

rums!  Doub — bl-bl-ble for  the  sparrer- 

grass! 

"Hawn — tree  wait — er-r-rs!  Byyourri- 
i-i-ght  quick  mar — rarch for  the  goose- 
berry tarts! 

"  Wait  —  er-r-rs !  At — tintion  I  Gur-r- 
round dessert  plates! 


198 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


"  By  your  cen — trrrr-re  left  wheeeeel 

to  the  kitchen! 

"  '  God  save  the  ®hieen '  on  the  gong?' 
When  we  are  done  laughing  with  the 
newspaper,  and  at  it,  we  may  turn  back 
and  find  a  most  t-xcellent  example  in  the 
said  handbill,  even  if  it  be  on  a  somewhat 
exaggerated  scale.  For  service  is  all-im- 
portant to  the  success  of  a  banquet.  The 
waiters  gathered  together  for  such  an  oc- 
casion are  likely  to  be  a  mixed  lot  and 
many  of  them  as  green  as  they  can  be,  and 
some  such  resolute  measures  for  making 
them  know  exactly  what  to  do  and  when 
are  quite  necessary  to  avert  confusion  and 
failure.  A  number  of  examples  of  catering 
on  a  grand  scale  have  been  given  in  pre- 
vious pages  and  not  one  of  them  mentions 
the  very  important  particular,  how  the 
waiters  were  made  to  understand  each  one 
his  particular  duties  on  the  occasion,  and 
the  "  regulations  "  above  exhibited  convey 
a  very  perspicacious  guide  for  all  such 
emergencies.  The  same  paper  says:  "The 
waiters  at  Young's  Hotel,  Boston,  have 
been  'uniformed'  in  spotless  white,  and 
must  cut  rather  a  queer  figure.  The  '  cap- 
tains'  and  head  waiters  are,  it  appears,  ar- 
rayed in  dress  coats  of  white  flannel." 

WHO    ARE    THE    BEST    WAITERS? 

The  question  is  often  asked,  but  only  for 
amusement  or  to  gratify  some  prejudice 
by  a  specious  answer.  It  must  be  a  very 
unsatisfactory  sort  of  generalization  to  say 
that  waiters  of  this  nationality  or  that  are 
the  best,  or  one  race  or  another.  When- 
ever there  is  one  most  excellent  waiter  of 
any  particular  nationality,  another  one  can 
be  found  to  match  him  of  some  other  race 
or  people.  It  is  not  race  so  much  as  train- 
ing. One  of  the  very  best  waiters  I  have 
ever  known  was  a  Mexican,  but  I  shall 
not  sav  the  Mexicans  are  the  best  waiters 
on  that  account.  This  one  had  been  trained 
as  a  valet  to  a  traveling  nobleman,  had 
been  half  around  the  world  and  spoke  sev- 
eral languages ;  that  is  how  he  came  to  be 
such  a  good  waiter  when  he  had  to  take 
up  restaurant  work. 


Waiters  are  a  good  deal  as  the  various 
headwaiters  they  woik  under  make  them. 
Left  alone,  waiters  in  general  are  like  boys 
in  school  without  a  master.  They  take 
small  liberties  and  seek  their  own  pleasures 
and  interest?,  and  if  that  is  allowed  they 
take  greater  liberties;  they  run  away  with 
the  house.  Waiters  have  to  be  restrained, 
they  have  to  feel  authority  over  them. 
Most  of  them  then  are  so  docile  and  well 
behaved  the  authority  has  scarcely  ever  to 
be  exerted,  they  do  right  without  compul- 
sion. But  in  every  crowd  there  are  bad 
boys.  Some  of  the  bad  waiters  will  stop 
when  they  meet  in  the  hall  with  some- 
body's  breakfast  or  dinner  on  their  trays 
and  throw  dice  for  the  drinks  on  the  floor, 
until  they  hear  the  steps  of  the  next  one 
coming,  and  then,  for  fear  it  may  be  some- 
body in  authority,  they  continue  their  jour- 
ney to  the  dining  room.  Such  as  these 
are  dropped  out  as  fast  as  they  are  found 
out;  so  are  they  that  drink  and  use  foul 
language ;  those  who  fail  to  come  up  to  the 
other  requirements  of  good  waiters,  also 
the  weak  and  sickly  ones  who  are  not  to 
be  relied  upon,  and  in  that  way  it  comes 
there  is  a  dining  room  full  of  picked  wait- 
ers, and  whatever  nation  or  race  they  may 
be  it  seems  as  if  they  must  be  the  best  in 
the  world,  because  there  cannot  be  any 
better.  But  the  headwaiter  who  sees  sights 
is  he  that  has  to  gather  up  all  these  culls 
and  castaways  to  open  a  resort  hotel  with, 
all  the  good  waiters  being  already  engaged. 

There  is  another  way  to  answer  the 
question,  who  are  the  best  waiters?  that 
seems  to  be  not  often  thought  of.  The  best 
waiters  for  this  country  are  they  that  know 
the  least  about  the  compulsory  fourboire 
or  tip  system  of  European  countries,  which 
has  grown  to  be  one  of  the  greatest  abuses 
of  the  day,  a  galling  tyranny  that  cannot 
be  shaken  off.  A  newspaper  was  not  long 
ago  started  in  France  with  no  other  object 
but  to  try  to  put  down  the  compulsory  tip 
system ;  it  was  called  the  Anti-Pourboire, 
and  the  waiters  turned  out  several  thousand 
strong  and  put  it  down,  prevented  its  being 
sold,  mobbed  the  carriers,  mobbed  the 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


199 


newsstands  that  took  it  for  sale  and  extin- 
guished the  paper. 

On  the  other  hand,  some  four  or  five 
years  ago  the  waiters  of  New  York  orga- 
nized for  a  purpose  quite  opposite  the  Pa- 
risian waiters';  they  organized  to  fight  the 
tip  system — the  waiters  themselves  on  this 
side  wanted  to  do  away  with  tips!  How 
was  that? 

That  move  was  taken  because  there  are 
more  than  the  waiters  concerned  in  the 
abuse  of  tips.  It  has  got  to  such  a  pitch  in 
France,  England  and  all  over  Europe  that 
the  waiters  get  no  pay  in  some  places,  but 
have  to  work  for  the  tips  they  will  extract 
from  the  customers ;  in  some  places  where 
the  chances  are  poor  they  get  small  wages; 
but  in  others  where  the  chances  are  good, 
where  the  customers  are  mostly  wealthy 
people,  where  a  good  many  American 
tourists  stop  and  throw  money  around 
loosely — !.n  such  places  the  waiters  not 
only  work  for  nothing,  so  far  as  wages  are 
concerned,  but  they  even  pay  for  the  privi- 
lege of  working ;  give  the  proprietor  thirty 
per  cent,  of  the  tips  they  receive  and  con- 
tribute another  portion  to  pay  for  the 
breakage  that  takes  place  in  the  establish- 
ment. There  are  a  good  many  places  in 
New(  York  where  waiters  are  employed, 
whose  proprietors  are  of  the  same  class 
with  the  same  ideas  as  the  restaurant,  cafe* 
and  hotel  keepers  over  the  water  and  they 
wanted  to  do  the  same  ways ;  wanted  the 
waiters  to  work  without  wages  and  live 
on  their  tips;  but  the  waiters  liked  the  old 
way  best  and  struck  against  the  attempt  to 
change  it.  That  is  why  they  were  in  favor 
of  putting  down  tipping.  Of  course,  they 
all  knew  that  tipping  would  go  on  as  it  al- 
ways does  in  this  country,  in  a  free-will 
manner;  they  struck  against  making  it 
compulsory  for  a  guest  to  give  them  some- 
thing or  else  be  ill-served,  asked  for  a  fee 
and  made  to  feel  small  and  uncomfortable 
by  them. 

WAITERS'  WAGES  AND  TIPS. 

Those  New  York  waiters,  no  matter 
what  race  or  nation  they  were  of,  "  knew 


which  side  their  bread  was  buttered  on," 
as  the  old  saying  is,  for  while  tipping  goes 
on  quite  liberally  in  this  country  if  it  is  left 
to  the  givers;  that  is,  if  Americans  are  let 
alone  and  allowed  to  give  tips  as  favors  to 
those  they  like  and  want  to  reward,  they 
would  hardly  yield  so  much  if  the  waiters 
were  compelled  to  take  on  the  eager, 
hungry,  anxious  look,  and  had  to  touch 
their  caps  and  hold  out  their  hands  in  order 
to  make  wages  out  of  their  jobs,  because 
that  is  not  the  way  of  this  country,  and 
would  make  the  tip  seem  like  a  debt  to  be 
paid  instead  of  a  favor  bestowed,  and  it 
would  not  be  very  generally  submitted  to. 
A  little  way  back  there  is  a  quoted  para- 
graph concerning  a  number  of  waiters  go- 
ing to  the  large  hotels  in  Florida,  and  the 
same  paper  says  further  down:  "The 
salaries  for  waiters  are  to  be  $25  per  month, 
with  an  addition  of  $4  on  the  basis  of  the 
premium  system.  They  will  probably 
leave  the  North  in  a  special  car  in  No- 
vember." 

We  all  know  about  how  wages  run,  but 
it  is  well  enough  to  let  somebody  else  say 
it,  too.  That  is  first-class  wages  paid  for 
first-class  waiters.  The  common  rate  for 
summer  resort  waiters  averages  $18  per 
month;  that  is,  the  range  is  from  $15  to 
$20.  In  the  generality  of  hotels  between 
seasons  or  for  all-the-year  jobs,  waiters  are 
hired  as  low  as  $12  per  month,  or  from 
that  to  $15.  In  any  of  these  places  the 
waiter  hopes  he  will  make  something  be- 
sides, every  waiter  expects  to  make  some- 
thing, yet  it  is  very  uncommon  for  the  one 
who  engages  them  to  talk  about  tips  as  a 
part  of  the  bargain,  or  to  make  a  business 
of  the  tip  question.  Of  course,  this  does 
not  refer  to  restaurants  in  the  eastern  cilies 
which  have  foreign  proprietors  and  waiters 
following  their  own  ways,  but  to  the  gen- 
erality of  hotels  and  restaurants  all  over 
the  states.  The  probable  tips  may  be 
thought  about,  but  there  is  no  sort  of  pro- 
mise made  to  the  waiter  that  he  will  get 
any,  and  no  advantage  to  the  proprietor  if 
he  does.  And  still  the  tips  secured  by  good 
and  lucky  waiters  amount  to  something 


200 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


considerable.      Here  Is  a  waiter  at  work 
who  is  sure  of  a  steady  tip  every  week: 

CHERUBS   AT   THE    HOTELS. 

There  is  something  uncanny  about  these 
mature  children  of  the  town.  I  was  at  the 
Windsor  Hotel  at  dinner  with  some  friends 
a  short  time  ago  when  a  pompous  little 
woman  strode  down  the  long  dining  room, 
followed  by  two  little  girls,  hand  in  hand. 
Neither  of  them  was  more  than  9  years 
old.  They  settled  themselves  in  their 
chairs,  folded  their  skinny  little  hands,  and 
then  proceeded  to  stare  about  them  and 
comment  upon  their  fellow-diners.  The 
elder  of  the  two  children,  after  looking  in- 
tently at  a  maiden  lady  of  rather  noticeable 
attire  at  an  adjoining  table,  turned  to  her 
mother  and  said  composedly: 

"  What  a  really  startling  old  frump  that 
is,  mamma?" 

"Which  one,  dear?"  asked  the  strict  dis- 
ciplinarian of  a  mother. 

"That  cheerful  guy  beside  the  bald- 
headed  man  over  there."  t 

"  Oh,  yes,"  said  the  mother,  with  a  well- 
bred  smile,  "I've  seen  her  before.  But 
don't  be  so  slangy,  Marion.  Have  more 
tone.  Order  your  dinner  now  and  see  that 
you  let  puree  and  lamb  alone.  It's  too  rich 
for  you."  Then  to  the  waiter:  "Take  her 
order,  Auguste." 

The  waiter  leaned  obsequiosly  over  the 
child,  who  was  studying  the  menu  with  a 
frown  on  her  little  face. 

"No  soup,  Ogeest,"  she  said  intently, 
•'but  a  bit  of  weakfish  with  egg  sauce,  an' 
a  kidney  omelette — not  flat,  you  know,  but 
nice  and  puffy — and  artichokes " 

"Ver'  sorry,  Mees  Maryon,  but  there  is 
no  arti " 

"There,  I  thought  so,"  said  the  girl, 
slamming  the  card  down  on  the  table  and 
biting  her  thin  lips.  "  It's  the  most  pro- 

roking  thing!     Whenever  I  set  my  heart 

» 

» 

"  We  have  some  green  corn " 

"  Eat  it  yourself  1 "   said  the  child  in  a 

huff. 


The  waiter  was  quite  unmoved.  He 
seemed  to  be  accustomed  to  such  ebulli- 
tions of  temper  and  went  on  suavely  taking 
the  orders  of  the  others,  while  Miss  Marion 
sat  the  picture  of  overdressed,  pampered 
and  pouting  discontent. 

Now,  whoever  wrote  that  piece  for  the 
newspaper  was  thinking  about  the  poor 
little  children,  wanting  to  train  them  for 
their  mother,  but  we  will  just  take  notice 
of  "  Ogeest."  He  has  got  as  good  a  thing 
as  he  wants  for  one  table  and  never  gives 
a  second  thought  to  the  behavior  of  any- 
body. He  will  get  what  that  family  wants 
if  he  has  to  beg  for  it  in  the  kitchen,  coax 
for  it,  buy  it,  steal  it;  and  every  Sunday  or 
Monday  morning  he  finds  "Mees  Mar- 
yon's"  little  hand  held  out  to  him  with  a 
five  dollar  bill,  probably,  or  two  or  three 
silver  dollars,  at  least,  and  when  the  family 
goes  away  there  will  be  a  parting  fee  of 
larger  amount.  If  "Ogeest"  is  fortunate 
enough  to  have  four  such  parties  to  wait 
on  and  get  his  American  plan  wages  be- 
sides, he  is  certainly  doing  very  well.  And 
he  doesn't  care  whether  the  children  are 
well-trained  or  not.  But  some  young  men 
are  so  constituted  that  they  cannot  take 
such  "sass"  without  resenting  it  in  some 
way.  Perhaps  they  have  not  been  raised 
right.  Anyway  they  are  not  adapted  to  be 
waiters. 

Contrast  the  fat  condition  of  the  waiters 
thus  far  mentioned  with  those  of  the  Edin- 
burgh, Scotland,  International  Exhibition, 
a  couple  of  years  ago.  The  waiters  en- 
gaged to  pay  the  resfreshment  contractor 
ten  shillings  ($2.50)  a  week  each  for  the 
privilege  of  working  for  him  without 
wages,  and  then  he  printed  in  his  bill  of 
fare  that  the  prices  there  set  down  in- 
cluded attendance,  which  meant  nothing  for 
the  waiters.  Here  it  is  as  it  appeared  in  a 
newspaper,  but  without  the  long  bill  of 
fare,  which  is  unnecessary: 

ROUGH  ON  THE  WAITERS. — The  head- 
waiter  at  one  of  the  Edinburgh  hotels  sends 
us  a  rather  indignant  protest  against  the 
terms  on  which  his  brethren  are  engaged 
at  the  Exhibition  now  open  in  the  Modern 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


201 


Athens.  He  points  out  that  the  conditions 
under  which  the  waiters  work  leave  them 
but  one  alternative  if  they  are  to  make  a 
living  at  all,  and  that  is  to  overcharge  the 
public.  The  refreshment  contractor,  it  ap- 
pears, receives  a  weekly  payment  from 
each  waiter,  and  yet  makes  attendance  an 
inclusive  charge  in  his  catering  tariff.  Un- 
less liberally  tipped  they  are  likely  to  be 
losers,  and  their  chances  of  pocketing  fees 
are  to  a  great  extent  extinguished  by  the 
intimation  that  attendance  is  included  in 
the  bill.  Scotchmen,  who  of  course  con- 
stitute the  great  majority  of  visitors  to  the 
Exhibition,  will  probably  find  this  intima- 
tion very  comforting,  and  will  scarcely  see 
the  force  of  paying  twice  for  services  ren- 
dered. We  subjoin  the  form  of  agreement 
subscribed  to  by  the  waiters  : 


"I,  ........  ,  hereby  engage  myself  as 

waiter  to  you  at  the  International  Exhibi- 
tion of  Industry,  Science  and  Art,  Edin- 
burgh,  1886,  and  to  pay  to  you,  for  the 
privilege  of  serving  you,  ten  shillings  per 
week,  at  the  end  of  each  week.     I  will  re- 
ceive my  food  at  the  Exhibition  on  every 
lawful  day,  when  open,  but  I  will  provide 
and  pay  for  my  own  lodgings,  and  for  my 
food  on  Sundays.     I  will  make  good  any 
breakages  in  my  department,  also  any  cut- 
lery or  plate  that  may  be  lost  or  damaged, 
and  will  be  entitled  in  my  own  name  to 
recover    from    customers    any  breakages 
which  they  may  be  responsible  for.     All 
sums  recovered  for  breakages  shall  be  spe- 
cially set   apart  in  a  box  to  be  provided 
therefore,  and  paid  over  to  you  when  re- 
quired.    I  will  be  liable  to  dismissal  on  a 
moment's  notice,  without  reason  assigned 
or  compensation  given,  and  I  will  be  en- 
titled to  leave  on  a  days  notice,  having  first 
accounted  to  you  for  breakages  and  any 
moneys  that  may  be  due  by  me.  —  Witness 
my  hand  this  ....  day  of  ..........  " 

That  is  the  condition  of  affairs  which  the 
New  York  waiters  banded  together  to  keep 
out  of  this  country;  but  the  Parisian  wait- 
ers fought  to  uphold  it,  for  the  simple  reason 
that  there  was  no  hope  for  them  to  get 


wages,  and  if  the  tips  which  they  depend 
on  were  abolished  they  would  starve.  So 
we  will  say  again,  the  best  waiters  for  this 
country  are  those  who  have  the  least  of  the 
old-country  tip  system  in  them. 

LONDON    WAITERS. 

The  waiters  over  there  have  a  good  way 
of  not  despising  small  tips.  Little  sums 
and  a  good  many  of  them  are  what  counts 
up  big  at  last.  The  way  it  is  here  one  per- 
son will  give  perhaps  half  a  dollar,  then  a 
dozen  others  will  go  out  without  giving 
anything  because  they  cannot  afford  to 
give  a  half  and  they  are  ashamed  to  offer 
less,  they  think  perhaps  the  waiter  will 
Insult  them  if  they  offer  small  change,  so 
they  don't  give  anything.  A  London 
waiter  tells  his  experience,  which  shows 
that  even  pennies  count  up  in  a  week.  He 
was  a  "greeny  "  in  some  respects,  though 
he  had  a  good  idea  abojut  waiting.  He  got 
into  a  small  restaurant  where  there  were 
only  two  waiters,  himself  and  another.  He 
went  for  sixty  cents  a  week  wages  and 
"what  he  could  pick  up"  and  his  dinner. 
Sixty  cents  a  week  is  so  near  nothing  it 
would  seem  like  a  mistake  was  made  in 
telling  it,  if  we  did  not  know  that  many  of 
them  go  to  work  for  no  wages  at  all  and 
pay  the  proprietor  besides.  Even  in  this 
cheap  restaurant  it  was  the  custom  for  each 
person  that  ate  dinner  or  lunch  to  pay  the 
waiter  two  cents  "  for  service,"  and  some 
paid  three  cents.  They  were  not  really 
obliged  to  pay  it,  but  it  is  the  custom  of  the 
country  and  most  of  them  did  in  this  res- 
taurant. The  green  fellow  soon  found  out 
that  his  partner  was  playing  sharp  on  him, 
letting  this  one  do  the  waiting  and  he  went 
around  and  collected  the  pay  and  kept  all 
the  tips.  After  they  had  had  a  fight  ovei 
that  they  agreed  to  divide  the  dining  room, 
one  took  one  side,  one  the  other.  It  ap- 
pears they  served  about  100  dinners  a  day, 
besides  the  other  meals  and  lunches,  thaf 
was  50  customers  apiece,  and  if  each  one 
gave  the  waiter  an  English  penny,  which 
is  two  cents,  that  made  them  a  dollar  a  day 
apiece,  or  seven  dollars  a  week.  And  the 


203 


THE    STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


one  telling  it  says  they  did  do  as  well  as 
that,  for  when  he  got  his  rights  and  his 
partner  could  not  cheat  him,  he  says  his 
pay  amounted  to  twenty-five  English  shil- 
lings a  week,  which  is  over  six  dollars. 
That  is  not  much  wages,  but  it  shows  how 
small  tips  make  a  considerable  sum  in  a 
week ;  they  make  more  than  the  odd  quar- 
ters and  halves  do  that  only  come  from  a 
few. 

American  tourists  generally  are  ashamed 
to  give  small  tips,  this  is  the  way  they  do: 

"The  American  tourists  who  invade 
England  every  summer  are  in  the  habit  of 
carrying  back  a  grievance  which  is  largely 
of  their  own  creation.  At  every  turn  one 
meets  them  complaining  that  'in  England 
one  has  to  give  so  much  money  to  all  the 
servants  —  it's  perfectly  dreadful,'  while 
they  themselves  are  the  only  people  who 
ever  do  anything  of  the  kihd.  The  well- 
traveled  London  correspondent  of  the 
Chicago  Tribune  makes  the  following  re- 
marks on  the  pretentious  liberality  of  his 
countrymen,  which  hotel-keepers  who  are 
brought  so  intimately  in  contact  with  them 
will  read  without  surprise: 

••I  have  known  an  American  lady  who 
gave  the  man  who  tended  the  hotel  lift 
half  a  crown  daily  and  half  a  sovereign 
weekly.  I  knew  a  vulgar  old  American 
who  gave  gold  to  every  servant  on  all  occa- 
sions. And  then,  after  making  fools  of 
themselves  in  that  way,  they  go  home  and 
report  that  the  Prince  of  Wales  and  the 
Archbishop  of  Canterbury  are  the  only 
two  men  in  England  who  will  not  take  a 
tip.  I  have  heard  of  an  American  who, 
when  on  the  steamlwat  at  Liverpool  about 
to  return  to  America,  thus  addressed  the 
assembled  crowd:  'Gentlemen,  if  there  is 
one  of  you  to  whom  I  have  not  given  a 
shilling  I  wish  that  he  would  hold  up  his 
hand.'  But  it  was  very  filly  of  him.  I 
have  lived  eleven  years  in  England,  I  know 
both  English  and  American  society  fairly 
well,  and  I  can  assure  the  untraveled 
Yankee  that  he  need  not  give  away  a  six- 
pence in  the  year  more  in  one  country 
than  in  the  other.  It  is  only  where  the 


raw,  green  Americans  have  been  that  the 
servants  are  spoiled  in  this  respect  and 
made  grasping  and  overfamlliar." 

But  Americans  are  not  the  only  ones. 

"The  following  clipping  is  from  the  jour- 
nal known  as  Men  and  Women  :  'The  busi- 
ness of  a  waiter  at  the  Star  and  Garter,  at 
Richmond,  must  be  a  somewhat  profitable 
occupation  if  there  are  many  guests  like 
Mr.  Henry  Irving,  who,  on  the  frequent 
occasions  on  which  he  dines  there,  tips  the 
waiter  with  a  sovereign.  This  came  out  at 
the  Wandsworth  County  Court  a  few  days 
ago,  when  one  of  the  waiters  at  that  famous 
hostelry  sued  a  brother  of  the  napkin  for 
refusing  to  go  halves  with  him  in  the  mag- 
nificent 'tip'  bestowed  by  Mephistopheles." 

It  was  in  London  that  ten  thousand  wai- 
ters replied  to  one  advertisement  which 
shows  that  there  are  all  classes  and  styles 
of  waiters  there,  and  tens  of  thousands  that 
learn  waiting  as  a  trade  and  follow  it  up 
all  their  lives. 

Some  way  back  may  be  found  descrip- 
tions of  the  ways  of  checking  and  paying 
in  various  places,  but  the  London  restau- 
rant system  has  not  yet  been  mentioned,  it 
is  this: 

THE   LONDON    CHECK    SYSTEM. 

"When  a  waiter  enters  the  service  of  the 
principal  London  restrarateurs  he  has  to 
bring  with  him  ten  dollars  for  'working 
money,'  as  it  is  called.  He  pays  this  in  to 
the  cashier  and  gets  ten  dollars  worth  of 
meal  checks  for  it.  Whatever  is  ordered  he 
pays  for  at  the  kitchen  with  checks.  He  is 
provided  with  a  blank  tablet  which  has 
manifold  or  copying  paper  between  the 
leaves,  and  thus  writing  the  bills  in  dupli- 
cate, he  tears  one  out  and  gives  it  to  the 
customer,  and  receives  the  customers  mo- 
ney, and  the  copy  remains  in  the  book. 

When  business  is  over  for  the  day,  the 
waiter  takes  his  book  containing  the  dupli- 
cate bills  to  the  office,  together  with  what- 
ever remaining  checks  he  has;  the  totals 
of  the  different  bills  are  then  added  up,  and 
the  grand  total  must  correspond  with  the 
amount  of  checks  used  by  him  during  the 


THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


203 


day  Should  the  total  be  more  than  the 
checks,  the  inference  is  that  he  has  over- 
charged somebody,  and  he  must  immedi- 
ately refund,  whatever  the  amount  is,  to 
the  firm  or  leave.  He,  of  course,  generally 
chooses  the  former  alternative.  If,  on  the 
other  hand,  the  total  should  be  anything 
less,  he  has  the  satisfaction  of  knowing 
that  he  has  lost  it,  and  supposing  either 
that  somebody  has  gone  without  paying 
their  bill  when  his  back  has  been  turned, 
that  he  has  given  too  much  in  change,  or 
that,  in  the  rush  of  business  he  has  given  a 
three-shilling  check  for  a  threepenny, 
which,  seeing  they  are  marked  pretty  much 
alike,  is  not  improbable.  Three  shillings 
and  sixpence  (nearly  $1.00)  per  week  is 
charged  each  man  for  glass  breakage,  and 
the  firm  I  speak  of  pay  no  salary  to  wait- 
ers; indeed,  few  restaurateurs  ^o,  and 
where  they  do  it  is  but  a  mere  pittance. 
What  a  waiter  mainly  depends  on  for  his 
living  is  his  tips.  His  makings,  assuming 
that  he  works  fifteen  hours,  average  as  a 
rule  from  five  to  seven  shillings  per  day 
($1.25  to  $1.75)  and  considering  the  great 
disadvantages  under  which  he  labors,  and 
remembering  that  he  has  to  bear  a  smiling 
front  through  it  all,  this  is  not  after  all  such 
a  fabulous  sum.  Of  course  it  is  only  right, 
and  proper  too,  that  a  large  firm  like  the 
one  I  have  spoken  of  should  have  such 
strict  rules;  but  I  have  shown  that  the 
waiter's  lot,  any  more  than  the  policeman's 
is  not  always  a  happy  one. 

THE    "TWO   BY    FOUR." 

By  the  return  call  of  the  electrical 
system,  with  tiny  bells,  the  guest  can  tele- 
graph all  ordinary  orders  to  the  kitchen 
and  receive  answers  both  of  the  sonorous 
and  the  solid  sort  with  the  speed  of  light- 
ning. 

It  is  a  mistake,  however,  to  suppose  that 
there  is  anything  in  this  more  like  magic 
than  the  practice  of  the  most  expert  of 
human  waiters  at  the  great  resorts,  where 
waiters  as  well  as  guests  are  counted  by  the 
hundreds,  and  therefore  cannot  be  individ 
ually  known  nor  very  perfectly  watched. 


It  is  doubtful  if  the  new  automatic  waiter 
will  ever  come  up  to  the  sleight-of-hand  pro 
ficiency  of  the  human  waiters  who  do  such 
neat  tricks  as  that  which  they  call  the  two- 
by-four,  by  which  they  sell  the  employer's 
goods  for  him  and  returning  perhaps 
the  cost  price,  patting  all  the  profit  in  their 
own  pockets,  and  make  the  employer  think 
that  he  has  been  watching  them  at  the 
same  time,  exactly  as  a  slight-of-hand  per- 
former does  upon  the  stage;  and  this  is  only 
one  of  the  many  tricks  which  the  automatic 
waiter  can  never  do.  In  a  large  restaurant 
the  waiters  must  buy  with  their  own  money 
the  dishes  ordered  at  their  tables,  paying 
for  them  at  the  cashier's  desk,  half  way 
between  the  dining-room  and  the  kitchen. 
Spring  ckickens  are  charged  at  seventy-five 
cents  for  single  orders,  but  two  orders  are 
$1.25  and  four  orders  at  once  are  $2.50.  The 
waiter  goes  to  the  kitchen  with  four  dishes 
and  orders  four  chikckens,  gets  them,  and 
starts  for  the  cashier's  desk,  but  when  he 
arrives  there  he  has  only  two  chickens;  he 
shows  them,  pays  for  two,  and  starts  for 
the  dining-room.  When  he  gets  there  he 
has  four  chickens,  as  he  had  when  he  left 
the  kitchen.  He  sells  them  and  clears 
$1.25  by  the  opera'ion.  Like  all  those 
conjuring  tricks  it  is  easy  enough  when  one 
knows  how  it  is  done.  In  the  first  passage 
the  waiter  sticks  a  chicken  in  each  breast 
of  his  jacket  and  turns  the  empty  dishes 
upside  down  on  the  remaining  two  on  his 
tray,  "to  keep  them  warm,  because  his 
customer  ordered  them  so,"  and  in  that 
style  appears  at  the  cashier's  desk.  In  the 
next  passage  he  replaces  all  as  they  were 
before. 

AMERICAN    HOTEL   CHECK    SYSTEM. 

A  novel  check  on  both  visitor  and  waiter 
is  in  use  at  one  of  the  American  hotels. 
On  entering  the  dining  room  a  boy  hands 
the  guest  a  card,  upon  which  are  printed 
amounts  up  to  about  $2.00.  On  one  cor- 
ner is  the  consecutive  number  stamped 
upon  it  by  an  automatic  numbering  ma- 
chine. When  the  visitor  gives  his  order, 
this  ticket  is  taken  away  by  the  waiter,  and 


204 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


when  the  latter  receives  his  order  at  the 
kitchen  the  card  is  returned  to  him  with  the 
amount  punched  out.  If  anything  extra 
is  ordered,  another  sum,  representing  the 
aggregate  of  the  two  orders,  is  punched 
out,  and  the  customer  pays  the  total  sum 
punched  at  the  desk.  The  consecutive 
numbering  denotes  the  day  of  issue. 

PARIS   WAITERS. 

There  was  another  thing  the  Paris  waiters 
went  out  on  strike  about  besides  the  Anti- 
Pourboire  newspaper.  It  appears  that  they 
all  go  to  employment  offices  when  they 
are  out  of  work  and  have  to  pay  to  register 
and  pay  for  a  job  when  they  get  it.  They 
found  out  that  hundreds  of  small  employ- 
ers, stewards  and  headwaiters  were  going 
shares  in  these  fees,  and  would  discharge 
their  waiters  frequently  without  cause, 
only  to  make  a  profit  out  of  the  fees  the 
new  waiters  would  have  to  pay  to  get  the 
jobs.  They  struck  against  working  in  any 
of  these  houses  or  letting  others  go  in. 
When  that  trouble  was  settled  they  formed 
waiters'  associations,  where  employers 
could  apply  when  they  wanted  help,  and 
paid  no  more  fees  to  employment  agents. 
While  they  were  out  on  strike  indeed  they 
made  the  abolition  of  the  employment  of- 
fices one  of  their  demands,  and,  like  the 
New  York  waiters,  they  wanted  the  es- 
tablishment of  regular  wages  for  waiters, 
and  not  have  to  depend  on  what  they  could 
"  pick  up."  They  complained  that  besides 
not  being  paid  any  wages  they  were  only 
allowed  to  keep  one-third  of  the  tips  given 
them,  the  proprietor  getting  one-third  di- 
rect and  another  third  was  taken  from 
them  to  pay  breakages;  no  matter  who  did 
the  breaking  the  tip  money  had  to  pay  for 
it  This  system  is  too  deep  rooted,  how- 
ever, and  the  waiters  did  not  succeed  in 
breaking  it  up.  It  began  long  time  ago  in 
the  palmy  days  of  the  Palais  Royal  gar- 
dens when  the  crush  was  so  great  that 
waiters  made  perfect  fortunes,  and  in  con- 
Bequence  the  proprietors,  turning  this  to 
advantage,  sold  the  waiters  jobs  at  from 
$400  to  $1,000  per  year,  and  still  the  wait- 


ers realized  splendid  competencies.  But 
that  time  is  past.  Such  times  occur  at 
some  of  our  pleasure  resorts,  when  the 
waiters  find  greenbacks  plenty  for  a  short 
time,  but  it  only  lasts  a  few  weeks. 

DISCIPLINE    IN    PARIS    RESTAURANTS. 

'•The  discipline  of  the  waiters  at  the  Caf£ 
de  la  Paix  is  very  strict.  Every  waiter 
has  to  be  at  roll-call  at  7.30  a.  m.  under 
pain  of  lod.  fine  for  every  five  minutes  he 
is  late.  Boots  may  not  be  worn  by  any 
waiter  in  the  establishment.  It  is  forbidden 
under  pain  of  dismissal  or  a  heavy  fine  to 
give  change  to  a  customer  in  instalments. 
The  maitre  d'hOtel  has  the  right  to  satisfy 
himself  by  calling  at  the  residence  af  a 
waiter  who  may  claim  dispensation  on  the 
p'eaof  tickness,  whether  the  man  is  really 
ill  or  not.  Each  waiter  has  to  pay  $1.00 
on  every  $20  worth  of  drinks  he  takes,  as 
a  percentage  on  the  four-boires.  Waiters 
have  a  holiday,_/0«r  de  sortie,  every  fort- 
night. The  tables  are  alotted  according  to 
their  business  value  in  order  of  their  seni- 
ority. Every  new  waiter,  or  any  waiter 
returning  to  work  at  this  cafe  after  absence 
has  to  begin  at  the  bottom  and  gets  the 
worst  tables.  These  are  some  of  the  regu- 
lations at  this  cafe",  and  that  they  are  good, 
if  strict,  is  proved  by  the  admirable  discip- 
line that  obtains  there." 

ACCOMMODATING    WAITERS, 

"  It  is  a  remarkable  characteristic  of  the 
waiters  in  Paris  restaurants  that,  no  matter 
what  anyone  asks  for,  even  if  it  should  be 
"a  fried  piece  of  the  moon,"  those  gentle- 
man-like attendants  will  invariably  reply 
'Yes,'  and  either  bring  it,  or,  on  returning, 
assert  with  sorrow  'that  unfortunately 
there  is  no  more  left.'  A  well-known  Gov- 
ernment official  tried  this  joke  recently, 
when  he  ordered  the  waiter  to  bring  him 
'a  sphinx  a  la  Marengo?  'But  I  grieve  to 
say  we  have  no  more,  monsieur,'  replied 
the  waiter.  'What,  no  more  sphinx?'  ex- 
claimed the  Minister  of  the  Interior,  feign- 
ing astonishment.  The  waiter  lowered  his 
voice,  and  murmured  in  a  confidenital  whis- 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


205 


per:  'We  have  some  more,  monsieur,  but 
the  truth  is  I  should  not  care  to  give  them 
to  you,  as  they  are  not  quite  fresh.' " 

"Dr.  X.  breakfasts  every  morning  at  a 
New  York  restaurant.  One  day  he  ob- 
served the  waiter  limping  about  painfully. 

"Have  you  got  lumbago?'  he  asked  sym- 
pathetically, 'or  rheumatism  ?' 

"I  don't  know,  sir,  but  I'll  just  step  into 
the  kitchen  and  see.  I  don't  think  there's 
a  scrap  left  of  either." 

TRICKY    WAITERS. 

Waiters  who  have  to  work  under  such 
disadvantageous  conditions  as  those  the 
Paris  waiters  struck  about  are  driven  to  all 
sorts  of  schemes  to  get  even.  This  is  one 
way,  as  a  correspondent  tells  it: 

"It  is  notorious  to  all  habitue's  of  this 
dancing-salon,  and  in  the  Quarti  :  Latin 
generally,  that  the  waiters  invariably  either 
overcharge,  or  else  return  deficient  change. 
I  speak  from  experience,  as  I  generally  do. 
I  have  been  overcharged  or  have  had  defi- 
cient change  given  me,  no  less  than  fifteen 
times.  Sometimes  the  sum  wanting  has 
been  a  franc,  sometimes  more,  sometimes 
less ;  but  I  have  never  once  been  served  at 
the  Bal  Bullier  without  having  to  point 
out  some  mistake  when  my  change  was 
handed  me.  And  as,  on  purpose  to  con- 
vince myself,  I  have  tried  every  waiter  in 
the  place,  and  found  them  all  alike,  I  can 
come  to  no  other  conclusion  than  that 
these  mistakes  are  a  system.  One  waiter 
confessed  as  much,  saying  the  times  were 
hard,  that  he  had  to  work  all  night,  and 
would  earn  next  to  nothing  ligitimately, 
etc." 

Another  one  says: 

'•One  of  the  tricks  of  the  waiters  in  the 
Parisian  resaurants,  is  in  bringing  change, 
to  cover  over  either  a  gold  or  silver  piece 
with  the  copper  money.  As  the  customer 
usually  waves  away  the  grosser  bullion 
with  a  contemptuous  gesture,  the  waiter 
gets  the  hidden  coin  Into  the  bargain. 
Another  trick  is  to  cover  over  a  gold  coin 
with  the  bill,  on  the  chance  that  the  custo- 
mer will  not  lift  up  the  slip  of  paper." 


But  if  we  begin  to  look  up  the  tricks  of 
waiters  we  shall  find  as  many  on  this  side 
the  ocean  as  the  other : 

"  'If  I  should  discover  a  system  to  prevent 
waiters  from  robbing  guests,'  said  Paul 
Bauer  recently,  'I  would  pay  well  for  the 
information.  Proprietors  of  large  summer 
resorts  are  all  anxious  1o  solve  this  perplex- 
ing  problem  especially  those  who  pay 
small  salaries.' 

"When  guests  order  two  or  more  portions 
they  are  seldom  served  their  full  order 
although  they  pay  for  it.  The  writer  sug- 
gests that  Mr.  Bauer  and  others  interested 
auction  off  their  present  stock  of  crockery 
and  order  a  series  of  special  dishes  to  be 
known  as  Protective  Crockery.  On  plat- 
ters and  vegetable  dishes  intended  for  single 
portions  stamp  or  paint  'one  portion'  on 
the  sides  or  rim  of  the  dishes  before  they 
are  glazed. 

"For  two  or  more  portions  the  same  sys- 
tem may  be  followed,  but,  of  course,  on 
platters  a  size  larger.  If  the  notice  was  on 
the  center  of  the  dish  the  food  would  hide 
it,  and  it  would  not  be  seen  until  it  was  too 
late  to  correct  a  mistake. 

"Dishonest  waiters  would,  of  course, 
attempt  to  beat  the  system  by  hiding  double 
portion  dishes  in  convenient  places.  They 
would  also  try  to  bribe  the  dish  washers 
and  others  handling  the  plates.  Very  bold 
waiters  might  attempt  to  use  a  dish  taken 
from  the  dish  baskets,  but  a  little  watchful- 
ness would  easily  foil  them.  These  dishes 
as  soon  as  washed,  might  be  placed  under 
the  care  of  the  chefs.  They  would  see  that 
the  right  portions  were  placed  on  the  pro- 
per dishes,  and  the  check  clerks  would 
easily  prevent  cooks  and  waiters  from 
standing  in  with  each  other. 

"City  hotels  using  the  half  portion  sys- 
tem might  protect  their  patrons  by  adopt- 
ing this  system." 

BERLIN    WAITERS. 

"I  fancy  all  the  good  waiters  leave  Ber- 
lin, and  that  none  but  poor  ones  stay  be- 
hind. One  meets  with  excellent  German 
waiters  in  middle-class  English  houses,  and 
never,  as  far  as  my  experience  goes,  in 


206 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


Berlin.  On  the  other  hand,  in  the  first- 
class  hotels  and  restaurants  in  Berlin  the 
waiters  are  models  of  attentive  politeness 
and  intelligence.  I  think  the  way  it  works 
is  this:  Smart  men  intending  to  adopt  the 
profession  of  the  serviette,  do  an  appren- 
ticeship in  Berlin,  and  then  start  on  a  grand 
tour  through  the  capitals  of  Europe,  learn- 
ing languages  and  perfecting  themselves 
in  the  difficult  art  of  serving  and  satisfying 
all  sorts  and  conditions  of  men.  When 
they  have  acquired  these  qualifications, 
they  return  home  and  get  go  d  places  at 
once  in  first-class  houses.  I  had  a  chat  on 
this  subject  with  the  head  waiter  at  ihe 
Prince  Heinrich  Hotel  in  the  Djrotheen- 
strasse,  and  he  told  me  he  had  been  to 
Naples,  Rome,  London,  and  Paiis.  He 
could  speak  all  these  languages  perfectly. 
One  thing  1-e  told  me  which  I  found  of 
Interest,  and  which  was  that  it  is  nowadays 
a  matter  of  almost  absolute  impossibility  for 
a  German  waiter  to  get  a  berth  in  Paris,  ano 
that  he  left  because  his  French  colleagues 
made  his  life  intolerable  for  being  what 
they  were  pleased  to  call  'un  sale  Prussien !' 
"There  seems,  it  is  true,  but  very  little 
inducement  to  a  good  waiter  to  remain  in 
a  Berlin  catering  house,  unless  as  Zahl- 
kellner  (cashier  who  receives  all  tips  and 
divides  them),  or  at  a  good  hotel,  where 
distinguished  foreigners  and  distinguished 
tips  are  the  order  of  the  day.  I  interviewed 
a  waiter  at  a  representative  establishment, 
and  he  told  me  his  wages  came,  after  all 
deductions  for  breakage,  washing,  etc.,  to 
less  than  $4  a  month,  and  that  his  tips 
never  exceeded  $20  a  month  at  the  most. 
He  said  the  food  he  was  supplied  with  was 
so  bad  and  scanty  (soup  at  breakfast,  a 
plate  of  meat  and  vegetables  for  dinner, 
coffee  at  four,  and  Aufschnitt,  or  bread  laid 
over  with  sausage  or  cheese,  for  supper), 
that  he  had  often  to  buy  food  outside.  All 
the  beer  he  took  from  the  establishment  he 
had  to  pay  for.  Twenty  or  twenty-five 
dollars  a  month,  at  the  outside,  including 
board,  seems  to  be  the  average  lot  of  the 
German  waiter  in  Berlin,  and  a  very  poor 
lot  it  is." 


A   GERMAN    BARON    AS    A    WAITER. 

"  I  was  dining  with  a  friend  at  one  of  the 
most  noted  restaurants  in  London — not  a 
hundred  miles  from  Regent  Street.  We 
had  a  most  attentive  waiter,  whose  face 
seemed  very  familiar  to  me,  and  ail  through 
the  dinner  I  was  puzzling  my  brains  as  to 
where  I  had  seen  the  man  before.  '  Fritz,' 
I  said  (all  German  waiters  in  London  an- 
swer to  the  name  of  Fritz,  and  all  English 
ones  to  that  of  George),  'your  face  is  very 
familiar  to  me;  where  have  f  seen  you  be- 
fore? Were  you  at  the  Criterion ?'  'No, 
sir,'  he  answered  very  quietly,  '  I  met  you 
in  Berlin  at  dinner,  when  you  and  Mr.  B— 
dined  with  Herr  Engel.'  It  flashed  across 
me  in  a  moment  who  the  man  was.  I  said, 

' Why,  you're  the  Baron  von  G .'    'The 

same,'  he  replied,  half  sadly,  half  comically, 
'the  same,  minus  the  mustache.'  I  shook 
hands  with  him,  and  thought  to  put  both 
of  us  more  at  our  ease  by  adopting  the 
same  half  facetious  tone  with  which  he  had 
greeted  me.  So  I  remarked  that  I  was 
glad  to  congratulate  him  upon  the  genius 
which  he  displayed  in  his  new  avocation, 
for,  I  added,  'I  might  have  known  there 
was  good  blood  in  you,  for  I  was  never 
waited  upon  better  in  my  life,  and  I  am 
one  of  those  who  believe  that  no  one  can 
do  anything  better  than  a  gentleman  if  he 
really  gives  his  mind  to  it.'  The  Baron 
was  flattered,  and  said  that  no  one  who  had 
not  dined  could  properly  know  how  to 
wait.  '  I,'  said  he,  '  have  so  often  noticed 
and  sworn  at  the  shortcomings  of  waiters 
that  it  is  a  strange  thing  if  I  did  not  know 
how  to  wait  decently  myself.'  Every  Ger- 
man who  is  down  on  his  luck  can  trace  the 
cause  of  his  misfortunes  to  Bismarck,  and 
my  waiter  friend  was  no  exception  to  the 
rule.  He  was  one  of  seven  sons  (all  oarons, 
of  course).  Two  had  managed  to  get  on 
tolerably  well ;  one  being  colonel  of  a  crack 
Prussian  regiment,  while  the  eldest  looked 
after  the  ancestral  acies.  My  waiter  friend 
had  been  living  on  his  wits  for  a  good  few 
years,  the  slender  income  from  that  source 
being  eked  out  by  an  allowance  of  1,000 
marks  (abom  £250)  from  the  elder  brother 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


207 


Finally  the  income  of  the  landed  proprie- 
tor became  so  curtailed  on  account  of  Bis- 
marck (how  I  did  not  quite  understand), 
that  the  younger  baron's  allowance  had  to 
be  stopped.  Now,  it  is  very  hard  to  main- 
tain baronial  dignity  on  £250  per  annum ; 
but  when  it  comes  to  maintaining  the  said 
dignity  upon  nothing  at  all,  the  task  is  be 
yond  even  Teutonic  shrewdness.  So  the 
baron  turned  waiter,  and  a  brother  of  his 
(also  a  baron,  of  course)  followed  his  ex- 
ample. Both  came  to  England,  as  being 
the  less  likely  to  meet  those  who  would 
recognize  them." 

HOW    WAITERS    FIGHT    DUELS. 

"The  Times  correspondent  at  Vienna 
states  that  two  waiters  found  themselves 
under  the  necessity  of  fighting  a  duel.  The 
seconds  seem  to  have  been  but  little  skilled 
in  the  use  of  firearms,  for  in  loading  the 
pistols  one  of  them  managed  to  fire  his  off, 
which  carried  away  one  of  his  fingers  and 
wounded  the  other  second  in  the  face. 
The  principals,  having  thus  vicariously  had 
some  experience  in  the  use  of  firearms, 
found  their  valor  oozing  out  of  their  fin- 
gers' ends,  and  expressed  themselves  per- 
fectly satisfied  with  this  vindication  of  their 
honor;  they  hastened  to  shake  hands  and 
to  convey  their  seconds  to  the  hospital! 
Bob  Acres  could  not  have  been  more 
valiant." 

FEMALE    WAITERS. 

It  is  said  that  the  Bouillon-Duval  restau- 
rants of  Paris  emp  oy  about  8,000  women, 
of  whom  over  5  ooo  are  waiters  in  the 
many  different  establishments  belonging 
to  that  company.  We  have  seen  in  a  pre- 
vious page  that  these  women  waiters  re- 
ceived tips,  the  two  or  three-cent  tips  cus- 
tomary in  that  country.  But  the  fact  that 
they  received  about  $12  a  month  regular 
wages  besides  is  significant,  when  the  men 
waiters  do  not  get  any  wages,  for  it  shows 
the  same  there  as  in  the  thousands  of  hotels 
that  employ  girl  waiters  in  this  country, 
that  women  never  get  as  many  tips  nor  as 
large  ones  as  men.  If  it  were  really  an 


object  to  abolish  tips  altogether,  it  could 
be  done  easily  by  employing  girl  waiters 
only.  People  will  not  give  to  girls  as  they 
will  to  boys.  Girls  do  not  know  how  or 
have  not  the  boldness  to  extort  tips  from 
unwilling  customers,  or  punish  Ihose  who 
do  not  give  with  neglect  and  lofty  disdain. 
They  do  not  generally  know  how  to  get 
the  hardest  and  toughest  steaks  and  the 
oldest  and  driest  biscuits  and  shoot  them 
down  on  the  table  with  their  faces  turned 
another  way,  not  to  see  whether  the  non- 
tipping  offender  can  reach  them  or  not. 
Some  of  the  girl  waiters  get  along  a  good 
way  towards  learning  th-se  things,  but 
they  lack  thoroughness  at  it ;  they  are  timid, 
their  dreadful  revenges  are  all  small  and 
the  culprits  laugh  at  them,  when  they 
would  not  dare  to  laugh  at  the  boy  waiters, 
and  go  off  without  tipping  the  girls  just  the 
same.  But  the  great  majority  of  girl  wait- 
ers never  expect  tips  and  never  try  to  ex- 
tort them.  They  have  their  favorites  to 
whom  they  show  partiality  at  the  table, 
but  it  is  not  often  that  the  prospect  of  tips 
is  at  the  bottom  of  this  partiality.  Never- 
theless girl  waiters  do  in  some  places  make 
a  good  deal  in  the  way  of  tips.  They  get 
their  regular  old  bachelors,  judges  or  doc- 
tors, permanent  boarders,  who  put  down 
a  dollar  or  two  for  their  waiter  by  the  side 
of  their  plate  punctually  every  week,  and 
their  harvest  is  at  Christmas,  when,  if  no- 
body gives  the  girl  waiters  tips  at  other 
times,  there  is  sure  to  be  a  shower  of 
Christmas  gifts  for  them.  Occasionally 
there  will  be  rivalry  between  two  or  more 
favorite  girls,  each  one  has  her  partisans 
among  the  boarders ;  and  those  at  her  table 
after  subscribing  themselves  will  gather  all 
they  can  from  others  trying  to  make  up 
the  biggest  purse  for  their  favorite  waitress. 
At  such  times  the  presents  run  up  to  fifty, 
eighty  or  even  a  hundred  dollars  for  each 
one. 

Among  the  recommendations  of  girl 
waiters,  which  causes  them  to  be  employed 
all  over  the  North  in  the  quieter  and 
smaller-sized  hotels,  one  is  that  they  can 
generally  be  hired  for  lower  wages  than 


208 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


boys.  Another  very  important  one  Is  that 
they  change  about  less  and  seldom  or 
never  go  on  strikes,  though  instances  of 
the  girls  striking  have  been  recorded  where 
they  were  persuaded  into  it  by  men. 

It  is  a  common  thing  in  England  for  fe- 
male waiters  in  hotels  to  serve  high-class 
dinners,  so  far  as  the  several  courses  go, 
but  at  the  same  time  a  butler  attends  to 
the  serving  of  the  wines.  In  this  country 
"Phyllis"  never  reaches  a  very  high  or 
dignified  position  as  a  waiter.  But  they 
seek  her  for  places  where  drilled  and  uni- 
formed waiters  cannot  be  afforded,  because 
"Phyllis"  is  neat  and  cleanly  without  a  uni- 
form. Says  one:  " Everybody  knows  the 
greasy-handed,  grimy-cuffed  and  grimy 
shirt-fronted  individual  who  pants  and 
'blows  among  the  chops  and  steaks,'  and 
everybody  as  a  rule  avoids  him.  Better 
far  a  neat-handed  'Phyllis'  than  a  male 
waiter  redolent  of  mutton  fat  and  insen- 
sible to  the  charms  of  soap  and  water." 

NEW    YORK    WAITER    GIRLS. 

"The  custom  of  employing  pretty  waiter 
girls  in  the  restaurants  in  lower  New  York 
increases.  They  bring  a  certain  class  of 
patronage,  but  the  patronage  is  not  a  very 
lucrative  one  to  the  proprietors  of  the  res- 
taurant. The  men  who  frequent  the  re- 
spectable restaurants  where  waiter  girls  are 
employed  are  usually  small  clerks  with 
small  salaries,  but  high  aspirations,  who 
smoke  cigarettes  and  spend  all  the  way 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  cents  at  their  lunch- 
eons. To  them  it  is  an  experience  of  wild 
and  lurid  excitement  to  be  waited  upon  by 
pretty  girls.  They  feel  that  they  have  done 
a  brash  and  manly  thing  and  never  return 
from  the  restaurants  to  their  shops  without 
telling  their  brother  clerks  of  the  '  mash ' 
they  have  made  at  the  restaurant.  In  the 
larger  eating  houses,  where  big  dishes  are 
served  and  where  it  requires  activity,  con- 
siderable endurance  and  deftness  to  wait 
upon  customers,  girls  have  been  found  un- 
suitable, but  in  the  dairies  they  quite  fill 
the  bill." 


Commercial  Traveler  (to  waitress) :  "  So, 
then,  you  are  my  waiter,  are  you  ?  what  is 
your  name,  is  it  Mary?" 

Waitress:  "Indeed  not — my  name  Is 
Pearl." 

Commercial  Traveler:  "Oh,  then  I 
suppose  you  are  the  pearl  of  great 
price  ?  " 

Waitress:  "No,  I  am  the  pearl  that 
was  cast  before  swine." 


A   DINING    ROOM  JUNO. 

A  Boston  lady  who  returned  from  the 
White  Mountains  last  week  told  the  His- 
torian about  an  interesting  experience  that 
she  had  when  she  went  there.  She  was 
greatly  taken  on  the  train  going  to  the 
mountains  with  a  young  woman  on  the 
seat  in  front  of  her,  who  was  in  form,  in 
face,  in  bearing,  a  veritable  Juno.  During 
the  long  ride  she  built  many  airy  castles  of 
imagination  around  the  form  of  this  god- 
like young  person.  She  tried  her  on  as  a 
society  queen,  but  she  looked  rather  too 
sweet  and  unwordly  for  that  She  tried 
her  as  a  countess  traveling  in  the  United 
States,  but  she  didn't  seem  exactly  foreign. 
The  lady  couldn't  make  anything  else  of 
her  than  a  princess — an  ideal  princess, 
traveling  incognitio. 

By  and  by  her  sojourning  place  was 
reached  and  what  was  her  delight  to  see  the 
beautiful  young  woman  alight  and  go  to 
the  hotel  where  she  herself  stopped. 

"Now  I  shall  have  an  opportunity  to 
know  her,  perhaps,  or  find  out  who  she  is," 
said  the  lady  to  herself. 

That  night  at  dinner  the  Boston  lady 
seated  herself  at  the  table,  began  peering 
about  among  the  guests  to  see  if  the  one 
who  had  charmed  her  so  completely  on  the 
train  was  there.  Suddenly  she  heard  the 
voice  of  the  waiter-girl  over  her  shoulder: 

"Soup,  ma'am?" 

She  looked  up  at  the  girl.  Heavens  and 
earth!  It  was  her  Juno,  her  princess  of  the 
journey  from  Boston! 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


20.) 


THE    PENNSYLVANIA-DUTCH    WAITRESS. 

"Ter  bodatiss  iss  all." 

This  remark  was  made  by  a  rosy- 
cheeked,  black-eyed  dining  room  girl  in  a 
most  excellent  Pennsylvania  Dutch  inn, 
in  a  Lancaster  county  village.  I  had  just 
called  for  another  baked  potato. 

"Is  all!"  said  the  dining  room  girl  with 
a  smile  and  a  shake  of  her  head. 

"All,"  said  I,  "all  what?" 

"Ter  bodatiss  iss  all,"  answered  the  girl, 
impatiently,  and  with  a  suspicion  of  con- 
tempt in  her  tone,  "  iss  all." 

A  native,  with  the  whiskers  of  a  patri- 
arch, came  to  my  rescue. 

"She  means  ter  haind't  no  more  alretty. 
Ter  all." 

And  thus  I  learned  that  the  Pennsylva- 
nia Dutch  never  say  anything  is  "gone." 
If  the  bar  runs  out  of  beer,  the  beer  is  "all." 
When  the  sauerkraut  barrel  is  empt,*  the 
kraut  is  "all."  But  there  is  one  thing  that 
is  never  "  all."  That  is  pie.  If  some  thrifty 
and  hearty  Dutch  citizen  should  ever  ask 
for  pie,  and  word  should  go  back  to  him 
that  there  was  no  pie,  the  relations  between 
him  and  his  host  would  at  once  become 
strained.  But  the  necessity  of  asking  for 
pie  seldom  exists,  either  at  tavern  or  farm 
house.  At  a  Pennsylvania  Dutch  inn  the 
waiter  doesn't  disturb  your  tympanum 
with: 

"  Mincerapplepierpud'n  ?  " 

She  fetches  in  the  pie  at  the  proper  time 
and  places  it  before  you.  Not  only  pie,  but 
a  whole  pie;  and  not  only  one  whole  pie, 
but  sometimes  three  or  four  whole  pies,  all 
of  different  kinds.  The  black-eyed  girl 
with  rosy  cheeks  who  knocked  me  out  by 
telling  me  that  the  potatoes  were  "all," 
placed  four  uncut  pies  on  the  table  imme- 
diately afterward.  There  was  a  cheese 
custard,  a  cranberry  tart,  a  sweet  potato 
custard  and  a  snitz  pie.  No  matter  how 
many  pies  there  are  on  the  table  every 
guest  is  expected  to  help  himself  to  each 
one  as  his  inclination  and  capacity  prompt 
him.  There  is  always  enough.  The  only 
thing  that  is  short  about  Pennsylvania 
Dutch  pies  is  the  crust. 


THE    MISCHIEF  OF  PRETTY   WAITER   GIRLS. 
[From  the  St.  James  Gazette.'] 

Though  the  soup  may  be  clear  and  the  fish  may  be 
good, 

And  the  lamb  and  the  sparrowgrass  tender, 
How  on  earth  can  a  person  attend  to  the  food 

That  attendants  so  fair  to  him  tender. 

Though  each  dish  be  success,  and  the  menu  com- 
plete, 

And  the  table  could  not  be  laid  neater, 
Yet  I  languidly  let  fall  the  spoon  in  the  sweet, 

Since  my  thoughts  turn  to  something  far  sweeter. 

Though  the  Glessler  right  up  to  the  Drim  of  the 
glass. 

Like  a  souffl6  of  diamonds  be  creaming, 
It  looks  dull  when  I  glance  at  the  eyes  of  the  lass 

That  just  over  my  shoulder  are  gleaming. 

No,  give  me  the  waiter's  thick  hands  and  white  tie, 

When  I  wish  to  persistently  gobble. 
For  I  can't  feast  my  mouth  when  I'm  feasting  my 
eye, 

Nor  digest  when  my  heart's  on  the  wobble. 

GIRLS    ON   A    STRIKE. 

"A  rather  funny  and  somewhat  unusual 
strike  is  reported  at  a  Swampscott  (Mass.) 
summer  hotel.  Nineteen  taule  girls  struck 
for  an  advance  of  50  cents  a  week.  It 
seems  there  was  a  ball  at  the  house,  and 
after  it  was  over  the  girls  appropriated  the 
ice  cream  that  was  left,  but  the  proprietor 
put  in  an  appearance  and  took  it  away  from 
them.  The  girls  resented  this  and  asked 
for  an  advance,  which  was  promised  them. 
Fearing  that  the  proprietor  would  not  keep 
his  word,  they  submitted  a  paper  to  him  by 
which  he  was  to  bind  himself  to  retain 
their  services  until  the  close  of  the  season. 
This  he  refused  to  do,  and  went  to  Boston 
after  breakfast  to  procure  new  help  before 
lunch.  In  his  hurry  he  boarded  the  wrong 
train,  and  before  he  knew  it  he  was  on  his 
way  to  Salem.  Here  he  set  himself  right 
and  was  soon  on  his  way  to  his  destination, 
where,  after  considerable  difficulty,  he  se- 
cured enough  help,  temporary  and  perma- 
nent, to  serve  the  lunch.  The  matter  cre- 
ated no  little  stir  among  the  guests,  who 
sided  with  the  girls,  claiming  that  'the  ice 
cream  belonged  to  the  guests,  who  paid  for 
it,  and  that  the  proprietor  went  too  far  in 
the  matter." 


210 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


ANOTHER    STRIKE    OF    WAITRESSES. 

u  One  important  strike  up  in  the  Read- 
ing coal  region  I  haven't  seen  anything  in 
the  papers  about,"  said  Samuel  Royer,  of 
Ashland,  Pa.,  "and  that  was  the  strike  of 
the  hotel  kitchen  and  dining  room  girls  of 
Ashland.  The  new  men  that  the  Reading 
Railroad  Company  are  sending  in  there  to 
take  the  places  of  the  striking  employes,  at 
first  went  to  the  different  hotels  to  board. 
There  wasn't  a  girl  working  at  any  of  the 
public  houses  who  did  not  have  a  sweet- 
heart among  the  strikers,  and  they  held  a 
meeting  and  resolved  that  they  would  not 
cook  nor  wait  on  any  of  the  men  who 
came  in  to  take  the  places  of  the  striking 
sweethearts.  The  landlords  were  notified 
of  the  decision,  and  informed  that  they 
must  close  their  hotels  against  the  'scabs' 
or  get  other  help.  The  landlords  couldn't 
see  how  they  could  refuse  to  accommodate 
the  men,  and  every  hotel  girl  in  the  place 
quit  work.  It  was  impossible  for  the  land- 
lords to  get  other  help,  and  the  result  was 
that  the  hotel  keepers  gave  in  after  one 
day  of  the  novel  strike,  and  gave  the  new 
men  notice  that  they  must  seek  quarters 
elsewhere.  The  girls  then  resumed  work. 
Proceedings  were  then  taken  by  the  rail- 
road company  to  punish  the  hotel  keepers 
under  the  law  for  refusing  to  accommodate 
their  men.  Then  the  hotel  keepers  agreed 
to  take  the  men  in  again,  but  they  put  up 
their  prices  so  high  the  men  could  not 
stand  it,  and  went  to  boarding  themselves 
in  the  car  sheds." 

RESPECT    INSTEAD   OF    MONEY. 

Well,  but  girls  rarely  strike  or  even  strike 
back  when  an  unkind  remark  is  levelled  at 
them.  And  it  must  be  said  in  partial  ex- 
cuse for  their  not  reaping  a  fair  share  of 
tips  that  it  is  largely  on  account  of  the  re- 
spect of  man  for  woman  that  they  suffer 
in  that  respect.  A  good  many  are  afraid 
to  offer  them  money  lest  it  may  insult 
them.  There  are  some  men  waiters,  as  a 
writer  remarks,  "  who  look  so  much  like 
archbishops,  and  behave  in  such  a  stern 
and  stately  manner  that  the  inexperienced 


visitor  is  overawed  and  would  not  have  the 
timerity  to  offer  them  less  than  a  dollar  for 
a  tip."  When  it  is  a  "Juno"  that  is  so 
encountered,  who  goes  about  her  duties 
with  such  dignified  reserve  that  she 
scarcely  seems  to  see  anybody  even  while 
she  is  scrupulously  attentive,  then  nobody 
dares  offer  her  anything  at  all.  It  is  said 
some  of  the  White  Mountain  "school 
marm"  waitresses  at  the  summer  hotels 
do  refuse  to  take  tips  that  are  offered  to 
them.  The  question  then  arises:  What  do 
they  do  when  the  customer  leaves  a  half 
or  a  dollar  under  his  plate  and  goes  out, 
and  never  looks  back  to  see  whether  Juno 
picks  it  up  or  not?  Do  the  Junos  sweep 
up  all  such  dollars  with  the  crumbs  and 
throw  them  out  of  the  window? 

COLORED    WAITERS. 

The  great  majority  of  all  the  waiters  in 
the  United  States  now  are  colored  men, 
and  the  number  is  steadily  increasing.  A 
white  waiter  at  a  meeting  a  year  or  two 
back  pointed  out  to  his  fellows  that  the 
colored  waiters  had  got  possession  of  three- 
fourths  of  the  waiter  work  of  the  hotels  in 
this  country,  and  they  were  in  a  fair  way 
to  get  hold  of  it  all.  While  this  is  a  true 
statement  it  is  remarkable  when  it  is  re- 
flected that  it  is  only  about  forty  years 
since  colored  waiters  were  unknown  out- 
side of  the  southern  states.  The  recent 
death  of  John  Lucas,  the  colored  head- 
waiter  of  the  great  United  States  Hotel 
at  Saratoga,  (who  died  worth  $60,000)  and 
the  extensive  newspaper  mention  which 
his  death  occasioned,  has  brought  to  light 
the  fact  that  some  of  the  aged  waiters  now 
living  can  name  the  men  who  first  em- 
ployed colored  waiters  in  New  York  res- 
taurants in  1846.  The  waiters  employed 
in  the  immense  hotels  of  Saratoga  no-,v  are 
all  colored ;  they  are  in  the  majority  in 
New  York,  Boston,  Philadelphia,  Balti- 
more, St.  Louis,  and  in  all  southern  cities 
they  have  almost  exclusive  possession. 
They  make  the  best  of  waiters  and  are 
learning  better  yearly.  At  present  they 
have  to  be  recruited  from  a  rough  and 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


211 


uncared-for  class  to  a  great  extent,  from 
the  boot  blacks,  scrubbers,  sweepers,  and 
farm  and  garden  laborers,  and  many  "hard 
cases"  are  found  among  them,  but  at  the 
same  time,  in  all  the  cities  where  the  col- 
lored  element  is  found  in  great  and  increas- 
ing numbers,  the  schools  are  turning  out 
thousands  of  half-thought,  half-polished 
young  men  who  are  almost  entirely  shut 
out  from  learning  trades,  and  who  come 
crowding  into  the  waiters'  ranks,  finding 
there  a  species  of  occupation  for  which 
they  are  well  fitted.  It  is  likely,  therefore, 
that  these  colored  men  are  the  coming, 
waiters  of  this  country,  and  that  in  the 
course  of  time  the  field  will  be  left  to  them 
entirely.  In  the  South  they  occupy  all  the 
ground  as  it  is.  Proprietors  and  other 
employers  go  South  yearly  who  are  re- 
solved not  to  employ  colored  help,  but  al- 
most invariably  they  have  to  abandi  »  the 
resolution.  The  colored  hands  are  there 
ready  for  anything.  Guests  find  colored 
waiters  more  meek  and  obliging,  less  re- 
sentful and  indifferent  than  white  waiters. 
It  is  not  long  before  changes  take  place 
and  the  colored  hands  get  possession  in 
spite  of  the  previous  intentions  of  the  em- 
ployers. Looking  at  it  without  prejudice 
it  will  be  found  that  the  colored  boys  have 
great  advantages  to  fit  them  to  be  good 
waiters.  An  immense  number  of  them 
have  to  begin  life  as  house  boys,  as  servant 
boys  in  the  private  houses  of  the  South, 
and  they  get  service  and  waiting,  neatness, 
obedience  and  civility  trained  into  them 
insensibly.  Tens  of  thousands  of  these 
colored  boys,  while  they  are  yet  children, 
earn  their  subsistence  by  helping  their 
mothers  in  private  service,  and  get  a  pre- 
liminary training  in  waiting  at  private 
tables.  These  turn  out  to  be  hotel  waiters 
without  experiencing  much  difficulty.  An- 
other immense  advantage  of  the  colored 
boy  is  his  freedom  from  over-sensitiveness. 
His  feelings  are  not  very  high  strung.  He 
is  used  to  the  badinage  of  his  own  class. 
Colored  people  can  revile  each  other  and 
call  opprobrious  names  to  an  extent  that 
the  most  irascible  white  man  would  never 


think  of,  but  such  abuse  does  not  strike  in ; 
it  rolls  off  the  colored  brother  like  water 
off  a  duck's  back,  and  if  he  gets  a  rebuff  at 
table  he  comes  back  smiling  and  says: 
"  Now,  Cap'n,  I  think  you  didn't  ought 
talk  so  bad  to  me;  ain't  I  treated  you  the 
very  best  I  can  ?  Ain't  I  been  'a  real  gen- 
tleman to  you?  Now,  boss,  if  there's  any- 
thing else  you  like  to  have  jest  say  it  and 
if  it's  in  this  house  I'll  get  it  sure."  Then 
"boss  "  or  "cap'n  "  laughs  and  throws  him 
a  tip,  and  thinks  more  of  "the  boy"  than 
ever  he  did.  Whether  this  submissiveness 
is  going  to  continue  as  the  race  becomes 
better  educated  nobody  can  say,  but  it  is  an 
advantage  to  the  colored  boy  at  present,  as 
it  makes  him  the  opposite  of  these  com- 
plaining London  waiters,  who  suffer  ap- 
parently more  in  their  mind  than  in  their 
body.  Says  one,  reporting  the  words  of 
an  address: 

"The  men  to  whom  they  sought  to  render 
assistance  were  exposed  to  many  sorrows 
and  troubles,  dangers  and  difficulties.  Some 
left  homes  perhaps  of  sorrow,  to  attend  to 
the  wants  of  others,  and  were  obliged  under 
the  most  depressing  circumstances  to  look 
cheerful  and  pleasant.  In  addition  to  this, 
the  waiter  had  to  put  up  with  many  a  scold- 
ing from  those  he  waited  on.  He  con- 
tended that  in  many  instances  the  waiter 
was  a  far  more  gentlemanly  individual 
than  the  one  he  waited  upon." 

And  another:  "Yet  it  must  be  acknowl- 
edged in  all  fairness  that  the  waiter  has  a 
great  deal  to  try  him  in  the  course  of  the 
day,  and,  if  it  were  not  for  the  expectation 
of  liberal  fees,  it  is  probable  that  his  nerves 
and  his  temper  would  give  way  far  oftener 
than  they  do  at  present.  It  is  the  easy- 
mannered,  the  quick,  quiet,  respectful,  and 
very  long-suffering  attendant  who  reaps 
the  largest  tips  as  a  general  rule." 

And  another:  "There  is  but  little  ques- 
tion that  of  all  the  people  under  the  sun 
the  waiter  is  the  most  abused ;  and  be  a 
man  ever  so  placid  in  temperament,  the 
word  'waiter'  has  only  to  be  mentioned 
and  he  flies  more  or  less  into  a  fury. 
Everyone  who  frequents  hotels  and  restau- 


212 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


rants  (and  who  does  not?)  denounces  the 
waiter — the  choleric  man  becomes  more 
choleric,  and  the  cynic  more  sneering  and 
sarcastic,  and  the  waiter,  flouted,  scorned 
and  detested  on  all  hands,  leads  what  may 
be  called  a  far  from  particularly  happy  life. 
For  thinly-veiled  insults,  for  biting  sar- 
casm and  jeering  sneers,  and,  more  often 
than  not,  for  downright  bullying,  the  waiter 
must  return  politeness  and  meekness,  and 
if,  like  the  oft-quoted  worm,  he  should  dare 
to  turn,  he  risks  the  double  loss  of  situation 
and  character." 

For  this  rearon:  "The  dinner  hour  is 
a  time  when  the  guest  is  apt  to  be  pleased 
or  displeased  with  little  things.  There  is 
an  abrupt  way  of  placing  a  salt-cellar  on  a 
table  which  is  annoying;  and  no  diner 
worthy  of  the  name  enjoys  having  his  food 
thrust  before  him  as  if  he  were  a  wild  beast 
».t  feeding-time  at  the  Zoological  Gardens." 

Such  are  samples  of  the  sad  complaints 
the  white  waiters  have  to  make,  and  every 
word  they  say  is  true.  Surely  it  is  an  ad- 
vantage to  the  colored  man  that  his  skin  is 
so  thick  these  stings  and  arrows  do  not 
strike  through,  but  he  laughs  through  it 
all,  and  the  man  who  dines  goes  away 
cheerful,  too,  and  is  not  haunted  by  re- 
morse. 


SCENE CITY    RESTAURANT. 

First  Client  (in  a  hurry):  "Waiter,  fried 
sole." 

Second  Client  (in  a  hurry):  "Waiter, 
fried  sole;  iresh,  mind1" 

Waiter  (equal  to  the  occasion,  shouting 
down  tube) :  "  Two  fried  soles — one  of  'em 

fresh!" 



TROUBLES    COMMON   TO   ALL. 

It  is  often  remarked  that  waiters  must 
above  all  things  have  good  memories.  The 
possession  of  a  good  memory  itself,  how- 
ever, does  not  account  for  all  the  feats  of 
a  good  waiter  who  carries  in  five  or  six 
persons'  orders,  composing  between  two 
and  three  dozen  differe-  t  dishes  differently 
cooked,  and  does  not  make  a  mistake  in 


one,  though  the  obtaining  of  all  may  have 
taken  him  half  an  hour.  There  are  plenty 
of  men  who  can  do  everything  else  about 
a  hotel,  however  seemingly  difficult,  who 
cannot  take  orders  and  remember  them  as 
far  as  the  kitchen  to  save  their  lives.  A 
good  waiter  was  asked  one  day  how  he 
managed  to  charge  his  memory  that  way 
in  spite  of  all  the  rush  and  noise  in  the 
kitchen.  Said  he:  "I  remember  the  order 
by  repeating  it  over  until  I  get  my  dishes; 
if  it  is  six  beefsteaks  and  two  of  them  rare 
cooked,  I  get  six  steak  dishes  out  of  the 
hot  closet  and  putting  two  at  the  bottom  I 
say  to  myself,  those  two  are  for  rare,  the 
four  on  top  are  well  done.  I  get  four  deep 
dishes  for  fish  in  cream,  and  so  on,  and 
once  I  get  the  dishes  right  I  never  can  for- 
get  what  they  are  there  for.  What  breaks 
up  the  best  of  us  is  to  come  out  and  find 
all  the  dishes  dirty  and  no  spoons  or  knives 
to  be  had,  and  while  we  are  hunting  around 
we  forget  half  our  orders  and  have  to  guess 
at  them." 

THE   TYRANNY   OF   THE   CHEF. 

Another  trouble  common  to  all  waiters 
is  to  be  learned  from  this,  making  a  little 
allowance  for  the  exaggeration  of  the 
sums  named: 

"  One  of  the  best  waiters  in  a  wellknown 
down-town  restaurant  attended  to  the 
wants  of  a  reporter  on  Thursday  with  a 
discouraged  air.  He  spoke  slightingly  of 
the  beef,  and  feelingly  remarked  that  he 
couldn't  recommend  anything  except  the 
salads.  A  choleric  gentleman  sat  near  the 
reporter,  and  the  latter  was  astonished  to 
hear  the  waiter  advise  him  to  try  roast 
beef.  In  the  restful  pause  that  always 
waits  upon  the  coffee  the  waiter  was 
invited  to  explain  his  seeming  incon- 
sistency. 

'I  had  a  row  with  the  chef  this  morning,' 
he  said,  'and  I  know  that  all  the  poor  cuts 
are  in  store  for  me  during  the  rest  of  the 
day.  I  wouldn't  bring  you  something 
that  wasn't  good,  you  know.' 

'But  you  advised  the  red-headed  gentle- 
man to  try  beef.' 


THE  STEW  .VRD'S    HANDBOOK. 


213 


'The  red-headed  gentleman  Is  opposed 
to  tips,  and  so  I  haven't  any  special  interest 
in  his  stomach.  A  waiter's  life  is  not  a 
happy  one,  and  sometimes  it  is  rendered 
miserable  by  little  bickerings  among  the 
employe's  in  the  kitchen.  Our  wages  are 
only  $30  a  month  and  meals.  If  we  are 
on  friendly  terms  with  the  headwaiter  he 
leads  all  the  generous  patrons  to  our  tables, 
and  if  we  are  not  it  is  a  mere  stroke  of 
good  fortune  if  we  get  a  tip.  Some  of  the 
waiters  make  from  $2  to  $4  a  day  besides 
their  wages,  while  others  don't  make  a 
dollar  extra.' 

'What  does  the  headwaiter  earn?' 
'Oh,  he  frequently  makes  $200  a  month. 
His  wages  are  $50  a  month,  and  the  wait- 
ers are  obliged  to  give  him  a  percentage  of 
all  the  tips  they  receive.  There  are  about 
thirty  waiters  employed  here,  and  it  is  a 
poor  day  when  $5  isn't  turned  over  fo  him 
by  the  waiters  at  night.  I  have  known 
him  to  receive  $10  at  the  close  of  a  day. 
He  has  little  influence  over  the  kitchen, 
and  in  a  case  like  the  present,  where  a 
waiter  is  on  bad  terms  with  the  people  in 
the  kitchen,  he  is  apt  to  lose  some  of  his 
best  customers  because  he  cannot  get  good 
meat  for  them.  Some  of  the  waiters  pro- 
pitate  the  chef  by  treating  him  frequently, 
but  this  is  expensive,  and  few  of  us  can 
afford  it.  It  is  to  our  advantage  of  course 
to  lose  the  customers  who  do  not  tip  us, 
and  I  could  spare  the  red-headed  gentle- 
man without  a  pang.'  " 

WANT    OF    BATHS    AND     DRESSING     ROOMS. 

Another  trouble  which  all  experience  is 
the  neglect  of  proprietors  and  stewards  in 
many  places  to  provide  bath-rooms,  wash- 
rooms, dressing-rooms  and  lockers  for  the 
waiters.  The  greatest  possible  stress  every- 
where is  laid  upon  the  necessity  of  waiters 
being  clean  in  person  and  clothing,  but 
frequently  there'are  no  conveniences  what- 
ever for  washing  and  bathing  and  no  p'aces 
to  leave  a  jacket  or  clean  apron  when  it  is 
not  in  use  without  risk  of  its  being  stolen. 

The  best  of  modern  hotels  have  help's 
quarters  fitted  with  plain  but  ample  toilet 


accommodations  and  these  leave  the  wait- 
ers no  excuse  for  being  untidy. 

A    FEW   TYPES    OF    WAITERS. 
I. 

There  are  incoherent  waiters, 

And  waiters  who  are  rough; 
Apologetic  waiters 

And  waiters  who  are  tough. 
There  are  waiters  quite  forgetful 

And  absent-minded,  too, 
And  waiters  always  waiting 

For  that  little  tip  from  you. 

IL 

There's  the  waiter  at  Delmonico't 

With  his  blank,  Parisian  stare, 
Who  calls  the  butter  beurrey, 

The  potatoes  pome  de  tare, 
Who  comes  with  supercilious  air 

In  answer  to  your  call, 
As  if  it  were  an  honour 

To  notice  you  at  all. 

in. 

There's  the  absent-minded  waiter 

Who  is  always  in  a  flurry, 
And  who  brings  you  currant  jelly 

When  you  call  for  chicken  curry; 
Who  pours  the  sugar  on  your  meat, 

The  salt  into  your  tea, 
And  finally  reduces  you 

To  abject  misery. 

IV. 

The  apologetic  waiter, 

With  his  sweet,  eternal  smile: 
Who  lays  his  head  upon  one  side 

And  rubs  his  hands  the  while, 
Who  is  "really  very  sorry 

That  we  haven't  that  to-day," 
And  who  thinks  it  "Quite  unfortunate 

That  it's  cooked  in  such  a  way." 

V. 

There's  the  large  and  clumsy  waiter 

Who  is  always  very  slow, 
And  is  forever  stumbling 

Wherever  he  may  go; 
Who  drops  the  butter  on  your  coat 

With  great  proficiency, 
And  crown's  you  with  the  muffins 

With  extreme  dexterity. 

VI. 
There's  the  thin  and  sporty  waiter 

Who  never  takes  your  hat, 
And  makes  a  bowling  alley 

Of  the  table  you  are  at. 
Who  rolls  the  dishes  down  on  you 

Regardless  of  their  falls, 
As  if  vou  were  a  nine-pin 

And  they  were  bowling-balls. 


214 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


VII. 
There's  the  waiter  at  the  seaside, 

With  his  life  of  gilded  ease; 
He's  the  one  who's  always  waiting 

For  those  customary  fees. 
He  will  starve  you  to  submission 

If  his  tip  you  should  refuse, 
But  treats  you  like  a  monarch 

If  you  give  to  him  his  dues. 

vin. 

There's  the  shabby-genteel  waiter, 

Whose  clothing  never  fits; 
Who  always  brings  your  change  to  you 

In  five  and  penny  bits; 
And  who  also  serves  your  dinner 

In  sections,  plate  by  plate, 
And  sets  it  down  before  you 

Like  an  avenging  Fate. 

IX. 

There's  the  waiter  that's  attentive 

And  exceedingly  polite, 
Who  sees  that  what  you  order 

Is  served  exactly  right ; 
Your  merest  wish  anticipates 

With  such  a  che'erful  will; 
Though  you  mean  to  tip  a  quarter 

He  often  gets  a  bill. 

X. 

He's  the  waiter  that's  successful, 

For  he  does  his  work  so  well 
That  in  certain  length  of  time 

He  owns  his  own  hotel; 
And  stands  beside  the  cashier's  desk 

And  looks  with  lordly  air 
Upon  all  the  other  waiters 

Who  are  waiting  for  him  there. 

New  York  World. 


RUM   OMELET    STRAIGHT. 

"Tired"     Customer    (in    restaurant)  — 
Wait'r,  a  (hie)  rum  omelet! 

Waiter — Yes,  sir;  with  er  without  eggs? 


JUST   A    PLAIN    WAITER. 

"In  Washington  you  can  get  a  highly 
seasoned  and  not  entirely  objectionable 
compound  of  Terrapin,  in  exchange  for  a 
moderate  fortune,  served  up  with  Saratoga 
chips  and  a  grand  flourish  by  a  haughty 
waiter,  who  will  ostracize  you  socially 
afterward  if  you  forget  to  give  at  least  a 
dollar  for  himself.  But  walk  into  one  of 
the  right  places  in  Baltimore,  hang  your 


hat  up  carelessly,  and  quietly  follow  these 
respectful  suggestions:  'Po'tion  o'  tar'pin? 
Yezzah.  Some  nice  sullery?  Yezzah. 
Brown  chips?  Yezzah.  Pinter  Perry 
Juray?  Yezzah!'  and  in  about  five  minu- 
tes you  will  have  a  feast  fit  for  the  gods." 

DIDN'T  MAKE  IT  THAT  TIME. 

"In  his  entertaining  book,  'The  Ambas- 
sadors of  Commerce,'  Mr.  Allen  tells  the 
following  little  story:  The  Saracen's  Head 
Hotel,  Lincoln,  was  noted  for  three  things: 
a  very  gruff  landlord,  a  very  cheeky  waiter 
and  '365.'  The  latter  term  being  a  syno- 
nym for  the  very  best  rice-pudding  I,  or 
anyone  else,  ever  tasted,  and  as  it  was  pro- 
duced every  day  in  the  year,  we  christened 
it  '365.'  I  can  vouch  for  it  being  on  the 
table  twice  a  month  for  twenty-two  years, 
and  always  good  alike.  I  may  add  that  if 
half  a  dozen  were  required  they  were  al- 
ways forthcoming.  But  it  is  of  Arthur  the 
waiter  I  would  speak.  It  was  often  suspected 
that  this  swallow-tailed,  modest-looking 
garcon  was  guilty  of  removing  the  decan- 
ters, and  especially  the  small  black  bottles 
of  crusty,  'bee's-wingy'  old  port  before  they 
were  quite  empty;  this  was  especially  no- 
ticed by  a  Mr.  Thomson,  a  sharp-witted 
'commercial,'  who  on  the  day  in  question 
hinted  the  fact  to  the  president.  It  was  a 
rather  large  dinner-party,  and  Arthur  was 
in  unusually  good  form.  A  pint  of  old 
port  was  ordered  and  emptied ;  the  bottle 
was  partly  refilled  with  salt,  pepper,  cay- 
enne, mustard,  Worcester  sauce,  chill 
vinegar,  anchovy,  etc.  '  Bring  the  bill, 
Arthur,'  said  the  president.  'Yes,  sir!'  and 
as  usual  Arthur  hurriedly  took  off  the  black 
bottle.  The  company  waited  some  time, 
but  no  Arthur  and  no  bill  appeared. 
Whereupon  the  'vice'  was  asked  to  ring 
the  bell.  In  came  'Buttons.'  'Tell  Arthur 
to  bring  the  dinner  bill  at  once,'  said  the 
president.  'Please,  sir,  he  can't;  he's 
nearly  dead,  he's  choked.'  The  gentlemen 
at  the  table  became  alarmed,  hurried  out  of 
the  room  to  find  poor  Arthur  in  a  most 
painful  position.  He  was  black  in  the 
face,  and  sorrounded  by  his  fellow-servants. 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


21 


On  his  recovery  he  solemnly  promised 
never  again  to  test  the  quality  of  leavings 
in  the  black  bottle. 

A   WAITERS    VALENTINE. 

"It  is  prosaically  addressed  to  'Sally  at 
the  Chophouse,,  and  bears  date  Feb.  14, 
1799: 

"Dear  Sally, — Emblem  of  thy  Chophouse  ware, 
As  broth  reviving,  and  as  White  Bread  fair; 
As  Small  Beer  grateful,  and  as  pepper  strong; 
As  Beef  Steaks  tender,  and  as  fresh   Hot  Hearts 

young ; 

As  sharp  as  Knife,  as  piercing-  as  a  Fork, 
Soft  as  New  Butter,  white  as  fairest  Pork; 
Sweet  as  young  Mutton,  brisk  as  Bottled  Beer, 
Smooth  as  is  Oil,  juicy  as  Cucumber; 
As  bright  as  Cruet,  void  of  Vinegar. 
Oh,  Sally,  could  I  turn  and  shift  my  Love 
With  the  same  skill  that  you  your  Steak  can  move, 
My  Heart  thus  cooked  might  prove  a  Chophouse 

feast, 

And  you  alone  should  be  the  welcome  guest. 
But,  dearest  Sal,  the  flames  that  you  impart, 
Like  Chop  on  Gridiron,  broil  my  tender  heart, 
Which,  if  thy  kindly  hand  ben't  nigh, 
Must,  like  an  unturned  chop,  hiss,  burn,  and  fry, 
And  must  at  last,  thou  scorcher  of  My  soul, 
Shrink,  and  become  an  undistinguished  coal!" 

A  WAITER'S  WIFE. 

"Bertha  Stuckart,  wife  of  a  waiter  in 
Vienna,  Austria,  won  a  prize  for  her 
beauty  at  the  exhibition  of  beautiful  women 
at  Spa,  Belgium.  Her  husband  sold  her, 
by  mutual  agreement,  to  a  rich  bachelor 
for  a  considerable  sum,  and  now  she  has 
obtained  a  profitable  engagement  with  a 
museum  proprietor  to  make  a  tour  of  the 
world." 

STUDENT   WAITERS. 

A  watering-place  correspondent  says: 
"Passing  through  the  dining  room  of  a 
bummer  <hotel  one  afternoon  I  saw  the 
headwaiter,  a  fine,  handsome  young  man 
from  one  of  our  New  England  colleges, 
reading  Virgil  with  several  of  his  assistants 
the  pretty  waitresses,  who  in  other  places 
are  school  teachers,  and  very  likely  in  col- 
leges themselves.  I  thought  of  the  Hotel 
Zum  Anker  at  Coblentz  on  the  Rhine,  and 
a  young  man  I  met  there — a  German  Baron 
-  I  think  he  was — and  with  whom  I  talked 


of  America  and  American  hotels,  and  es- 
pecially I  told  him  of  the*  student  waiters 
in  our  summer  hotels.  He  expressed  great 
astonishment,  and  said  he  had  heard  of  it 
before,  but  never  had  been  able  to  bring 
himself  to  believe  It.  His  incredulity  was 
all  the  more  surprising,  as  he  himself  was 
a  clerk  at  the  Hotel  Zum  Anker.  I  must 
give  him  the  credit  of  being  an  excellent 
clerk,  who  never  seemed  to  iorget  that 
though  he  was  a  baron  he  was  yet  the 
hotel  clerk,  and  so  discharged  his  duties 
just  as  faithfully  as  though  he  had  not 
been  possessed  of  so  hair-splitting  a  turn 
of  mind." 

IX   THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS. 

Twas  at  college  first  I  met  him, 

There  competing  for  a  prize; 
And  he  gave  his  deep  oration. 

Ail  his  soul  within  his  eyes. 

Twas  a  masterpiece,  in  Latin, 
Full  of  feeling,  fire  and  thought, 

Rich  with  wiVl  poetic  fancies 
Thro'  the  phrases  interwrought. 

And  his  proud  young  face  shone  on  me 
And  his  clear  young  voice  rang  loud, 

Leaving  in  my  ear  an  echo 
O'er  the  plaudits  of  the  crowd. 

Thus  I  listened,  thrilled,  enraptured, 

Hung  on  every  ringing  tone, 
Till  the  heart  within  my  bosom 

Beat  for  him,  and  him  alone! 

On  my  breast  I  wore  his  colors, 
Love's  sweet  tribute  to  his  fame; 

And  while  thinking  of  him  ever 
To  my  heart  I  called  his  name. 

And  we  met  again — 'twas  summer; 

I  had  waited  long  and  well. 
I  was  down  beside  the  seashore, 

Stopping  at  the  Grand  Hotel. 

Seated  all  alone  at  dinner, 
Wrapped  in  serious  thought  was  I, 

When  a  voice,  so  deep  and  tender, 
Murmured,  "Peach  or  lemon  pie?" 

Then  I  looked  up,  pale  and  trembling, 
There  "he"  stood  within  my  sight, 

In  a  waiter's  badge  all  shining, 
And  a  waiter's  apron  white. 

He  had  hired  there  for  the  summer, 

And  his  wild,  poetic  heart 
Now  was  strugling  through  the  mazes 

Of  a  dinner  a  la  carte. 


216 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


So  I  turned  me  coldly  from  him, 

With  a  sad  and  sobbing  sigh ; 
After  all  my  weary  waiting 

All  1  said  was  "Lemon  pie!" 

That  lady  went  back  the  next  year  and 
found  he  had  become  a  majestic  head  waiter 
like  this: 

"Mrs.  JDe  Timid  (at  Grand  Hotel  table) 
— I  beg  pardon,  but  didn't  you  say  you 
were  presented  to  the  queen  during  your 
tour  abroad? 

Prima  Donna — 'Yes  madam.1 

'And  you  spoke  of  other  experiences  of  a 
like  nature.' 

'I  was  presented  to  several  of  the  crowned 
heads  of  Europe,  talked  with  many  of  the 
great  generals  and  noted  diplomats  and 
was  granted  an  audience.' 

'Weren't  you  scared?' 

'Not  at  all.' 

'Then  if  you  are  not  afraid,  I  wish  you 
would  tell  the  head  waiter  that  this  salt  box 
is  empty.' 


A   TREASURE    OF    A    WAITER. 

"A  tight  pair  of  light  pants,  a  shirt  of 
which  the  bosom  shone  like  a  bald  head,  a 
Rhine-stone  collar-button  which  fastened 
an  immaculate  collar  to  the  aforesaid  shirt,  a 
black  alpaca  round-about  and  an  apron  that 
just  escaped  the  floor,  and  inside  of  all  a 
human  being,  and  you  have  our  new 
waiter.  With  the  exception  of  an  embry- 
onic moustache  his  face  was  devoid  of  hair 
He  had  had  several  years'  experience,  he 
iaid,  as  a  waiter,  and  it  was  with  a  feeling 


of  pride,  to  say  nothing  of  relief,  that  the 
headwaiter  saw  him  take  his  place  in  the 
centre  of  the  room  and  await  the  rush  that 
always  occurs  at  high  noon.  One  by  one 
tables  were  filled,  and  finally  not  a  seat 
there  was  to  be  had.  The  new  waiter  passed 


noiselessly  from  one  table  to  another,  tak- 
ing the  multitude  of  orders  with  the  utmost 
complacency  until  he  reached  the  end  of 
his  station.  'At  last  I've  got  a  man  that 
can  take  care  of  my  customers  in  a  proper 
manner,'  chuckled  the  proprietor,  as  he 
gazed  with  pardonable  admiration  on  the 
new  man  awaiting  his  turn  at  the  order- 
lift.  His  satisfaction  was  short-lived,  how- 
ever, for  all  at  once  the  new  waiter  began 
giving  orders  in  a  voice  suggestive  to  the 
bellow  of  a  bull,  and  that,  too,  in  a  verna- 
cular that  was  strangely  new  to  the  Bro- 
therhood Restaurant: 

'(i)  Give  me  a  stack  o*  whites  with  a 
copper  on  (2)  a  terrier  without  shamrocks, 
(3)  some  hen's  fruit  that  an't  over  ripe,  (4) 
a  slaughter-house  and  a  paralyzed  Mick, 
(5)  a  cup  of  coffee  on  crutches,  (6)  two 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


217 


insults  to  a  square  meal,  (7)  one  Sheeny 
destroyer  and  a  soaked  bum,  (8)  a  brown- 
stone  front,  and  (9)  return  good  for  evil.' 

A  cry  from  the  kitchen  followed,  and 
the  carver  ran  upstairs  saying  the  chef  had 
fainted.  The  new  waiter  was  summarily 
bounced  and  an  old  hand  sent  to  get  the 
orders  anew,  which  having  done,  he  trans- 
mitted to  the  kitchen  as  follows: 

'(i)  Give  me  a  plate  of  wheat  cakes  well 
browned,  (2)  corned  beef  without  cabbage 
for  one  (3)  a  plate  of  fresh  fried  eggs,  (4) 
steak  and  a  boiled  potato,  (5)  a  cup  of  coffee 
half  milk,  (6)  two  dishes  of  hash,  (7)  a  plate 
of  roast  pork  and  pickled  beets,  (8)  pork 
and  beans  for  one,  and  (9)  change  this 
potato  for  a  good  one.' 

This  is  what  the  new  waiter  meant,  but 
he  had  had  too  many  days'  experience  in 
the  shady  part  of  town." 

TRIALS   OF   THE    WAITER    GIRLS. 

"Cranks,"  said  the  girl  waiter,  "always 
blossom  out  in  their  full  glory  when  they 
eat.  Some  of  them  never  know  enough  to 
give  an  order  and  five  minutes  after  it  is  cook- 
ing will  want  me  to  change  it.  Of  course 
I  can't  do  it.  Then  there  is  the  young 
man  who  is  inclined  to  be  spooney  and 
indulges  in  any  amount  of  soft  nothings, 
forgetting  that  I  have  not  let  this  leap  year 
pass  without  getting  an  iron-clad  engage- 
ment, and  if  my  fellow  attempts  to  go  back 
on  his  vows  I  will  make  it  too  warm  for 
him  to  live.  But  there  is  one  kind  of  crank 
that  is  the  meanest  of  all — the  one  who 
comes  in  with  a  friend,  and  when  he  sees 
anything  his  friend  has  ordered  that  pleases 
him  deliberately  appropriates  it.  This 
always  creates  bad  feeling,  and  the  blame 
falls  on  me.  I  thought  I  would  get  even 
with  one  of  this  kind  last  night,  and 
checked  him  up  an  extra  quarter.  But  I 


failed.  He  traded  checks  and  paid  his  bill 
and  went  out,  and  his  patient  friend  caught 
the  large  sized  check." 

WAITERS'   CHRISTMAS. 

(Chicago  Hotel  World.) 

Mr.  Plummer,  headwaiter  of  the  Mil- 
lard,  Omaha,  received  a  costly  manicure 
set  from  his  waiters. 

Mr.  O.  H.  Lane,  headwaiter  at  the  Ho- 
tel Worth,  Chicago,  besides  other  gifts,  re- 
ceived about  $40  in  hard  cash  from  the 
guests  of  that  hotel.  The  side-waiters  also 
fared  well. 

Ms.  Albert  E.  Reynolds,  headwaiter  of 
the  St.  James  Hotel,  St.  Louis,  was  gen- 
erously remembered  by  his  waiters  with  a 
fine  ring,  bearing  his  monogram  inlaid 
with  diamonds. 

Julia  Harrigan  has  been  head  waitress  at 
the  Morton  House,  Grand  Rapids,  Mich., 
for  over  ten  years,  and  her  friends  made 
her  a  Christmas  present  this  year  of  $230 
in  cash,  collected  in  small  donations. 

The  St.  Louis,  Hotel  Reporter  says  the 
Southern  Hotel  Company  distributed  about 
fifteen  hundred  dollars  among  their  em- 
ploye's and  allowed  them  to  purchase  their 
presents.  The  proprietors  of  the  Lindell 
also  came  to  the  front  in  a  liberal  manner. 

Mrs.  Potter  Palmer  gives  a  Christmas 
the  Palmer  House,  Chicago,  in  the  hotel 
parlors.  At  the  recent  treat  over  200  chil- 
dren, (says  the  Chicago  Hotel  Reporter]) 
assembled  around  a  monster  Christmas  tree 
laden  with  valuable  presents,  and  every 
child  was  made  happy  with  a  gift.  After 
the  presentations  the  little  ones  were  given 
a  banquet  with  plenty  of  ice  cream,  cakes 
and  candies  in  the  bill  of  fare.  It  is  such 
substantial  manifestations  of  good  will 
upon  the  parts  of  employers  that  tends 
to  make  employe's  contented  and  happy. 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


WHITK  HE  AD'S 

DI6TIONARY  OF  DISHES 

CULINARY  TERMS  AND  VARIOUS  INFORMATION  PERTAINING  TO 
THE  STEWARD'S  DEPARTMENT,  BEING  THE 

ESSENCE  OF  ALL  COOK  BOOKS, 

TELLING    IN   BRIEF    WHAT   ALL    DISHES    AND   SAUCES    ARE,  OR 
WHAT   THEY   SHOULD  LOOK  LIKE. 

WHAT  MATERIALS  ARE  NEEDED  FOR  AND  WHA*T  THEY  ARE. 
HOW  TO  USE  TO  ADVANTAGE  ALL   SORTS  OF   ABUND- 
ANT PROVISIONS,  OR  HOW  TO  KEEP  THFVJ 

CONTAINING,    ALSO, 

A  Valuable  Collection  of  Restaurant  Specialties, 

DISTINCTIVE  NATIONAL  COOKERY, 

REMARKS    ON  ADULTERATIONS,  AND    HOW  TO    DETECT  THEM, 
TREATMENT  AND  SERVICE  OF  WINE 

AND   A    FUND   OK    CURIOUS    AND    USEFUL    INFORMATION    IN    DICTIONARY    FORM, 

FOR    STEWARDS,    CATERERS,    CHEFS,    BAKERS,    AND    ALL 

HOTEL    AND    RESTAURANT    KEEPERS. 


JESSUP  WHITEHEAD. 


CHICAGO. 
1899. 


.Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress  in  the  Office  of  the  Librarian,  at  Washington,  by 
JESSI.-P  WHITEHEAD,  1887  and  1889. — All  rights  reserved. 


MODEL  SMALL  MENUS. 


DINNER  PARTY  AT  ADELPHI  HOTEL, 
NEW  YORK. 

Blue  Points. 

Chicken  a  la  Reine. 

Kennebec  Sahnon,  Anchovy  Sauce. 

Pommes  Parisienne. 
Olives.  Celery. 

Terrapin  a  la  Maryland. 
Chicken  Croquettes  Petits  Pois. 

Cauliflower. 
Fillet  of  Beef,  larded,  \vith  Mushrooms. 

Mashed  Potatoes. 
Lobster  and  Chicken  Salads. 

Canvas -back  Duck. 
Saratoga  Chips.  Currant  Jelly. 

Rum  Omelette. 

Cheese,  Fruit,  etc. 

Cafe,  Liqueurs,  Segars. 

ITALO-AMERICAN   EPICUREAN  CLUB 
RECEPTION,   NEW  YORK. 

Julienne. 
Varies.  HORS  D'CBUVRE.  Varies. 

Striped  Bass  i  la  Hollandaise. 

Beef  Tenderloin,  with  Mushrooms. 

Potato  Croquettes.  French  Peas. 

Roast  Chicken.         Turkey. 
Lettuce  Salad.        Celery.        Cranberry  Sauce. 

Lobster  Salad. 

Chicken  Mayonaise. 

Vanilla  Ice  Cream. 

Assorted  Cake.        Fruits.        Bonbons. 

Candy. 

Cheese.  Coffee. 

Liqueurs. 

COOK'S    ASSOCIATION,     LONDON    EX- 
HIBITION. 

MENU. 

Soups, 
Julienne. 

Fish. 

Tranches  de  Saumon,  Sauce  Verte. 
Blanchailles. 

Entrees. 
Poulet  Saute  a  la  Portugaise. 

Releves. 
Quartier  d'Agneau,  Sauce  Menthe. 

Second  Service. 

Canetons  R6ti. 

Salade  a  la  Francai.se. 

Asperges,  Sauce  Hollandaise. 

Entremets. 

Babas,  Sauce  Abricot. 

Glace  a  la  Vanille. 

Gateau  Assorti. 


(221) 


COMMONWEALTH    CLUB,    METROPOL 
ITAN  HOTEL,  NEW  YORK. 

MENU. 

Blue  Points. 
Consomm^  de  Volaille  aux  Quenelles. 

Baked  Biuefish,  Bordelaise. 

Cucumbers.  Potatoes  au  Gratin. 

Leg  of  Mutton,  Caper  Sauce. 

String  Beans. 
Porterhouse  Roast  &  1'Anglaise. 

French  Peas. 
Cardinal  Punch. 

Spring  Turkey,  Cranberry  Sauce. 

Lettuce.  Brussels  Sprouts. 

Pudding  k  la  Reine. 

Glace  a  la  Forme. 

Gateaux  Assortis. 

Fruit.  Coffee. 

Cheese. 

ANOTHER  OF  THE  SAME. 

MENU. 

Blue  Points. 

Consomme1  Deslignac. 

Boiled  Kennebec  Salmon  a  la  Russe. 

Cucumbers.  Potatoes  Brabant. 

Sirloin  of  Beef,  larded  Jardiniere. 

Cauliflower  au  Gratin. 
Salmi  of  Partridge  a  la  Perigeux. 

String  Beans. 

Roman    Punch. 

Philadelphia  Capon,  Water-cress. 

Green  Peas. 

Cabinet  Pudding,  Brandy  Sauce. 
Neapolitan  Ice  Cream. 

Assorted  Cake. 

Cheese.  Fruit. 

Coffee. 

AL    FRESCO. 

An  enthusiastic  tourist  thus  describes  a  supper  of 
which  he  partook  recently  upon  an  island  in  Lake 
Erie:  "And  such  a  supper!  Black  bass  killed 
twenty  minutes  ago,  cut  up  and  fried  to  an  external 
crisp  and  internal  juicy  firmness;  grass  pike  baked 
whole  and  done  to  a  turn,  which  would  strike  envy 
into  the  very  stew-pans  of  a  French  'artist;'  a  peck 
of  little  perch  fried  as  crisp  as  shavings  and  as 
'sweet  as  nuts:'  a  half  dozen  roast  mallard,  stuffed 
with  soul  ravishing  sage  and  onions;  a  pot  pie  from 
whose  delicious  depths  coots,  reed  birds,  snipe  and 
teal  emerge  in  succession;  potatoes  roasted  in  their 
jackets,  and  best  of  all,  tin  plates,  wooden  benches, 
the  glorious  back-woods,  absence  of  etiquette  and 
every  man  for  himself." 

AN   ACROSTIC  MENU. 

The  following  complimentary  menu  to  a  voung 
lady  named  Lilian  does  credit  to  its  author: 


222 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


L   es  hultres  d'Ostend. 

I     talian  et  Printanier  Royal. 

L  ottes  a  la  Massillon. 

I     ndienne  de  riz  sur  croustades. 

A  iguillettes  de  canards  St.  Hubert. 

X  oisettes  de  pre  sale,  Lyon  d'Or. 

B  ombe  a  la  Romalne. 

O  rtolans  et  perdreaux  eur  canapes. 

X  ouilles  en  timbales  a  la  Xapolitaine. 

V  cloute1  de  cardpns  a  la  moSlle. 

O  melette  souffiee  a  vanille. 

V  okoharna  glace  au  Clicquot. 

A  bricots  et  iruits  confits. 

G  auffrettes  et  petits  fours. 

E  spalier  de  chasselas  Fontainebleau. 

Possibly  the  waiters  were  as  much  in  a  maze 
about  the  order  of  serving  such  a  feast  as  the  guests 
were  amazed  at  the  delicacy  of  the  giver  thereof. 

CANARD,  SAUCE  AU  SANG. 

One  of  Joseph's  little  dinners.  (M.  Joseph,  of  the 
Restaurant  du  Cafe  Paillard,  Boulevard  des  Ita- 
Jiens,  formerly  of  Bignon's.) 

MENU. 
lluitres  d'Ostende. 

Potato  au  Tapioca,  a  la  Puree  de  Pois, 
a  1'Oseille. 

Turbot,  Sauce  Hollandaise. 

Cotelettcs  d'Asjneau  braisees  a  la  Pur£e  de  Cham- 
pignons. 

Canard  Sauvage  R6ti,  Sauce  au  Sang. 

Salade. 

Tomates  au  Gratin. 
Riz  a  I'linperatrice  aux  Mandarines. 

Fromage  et  Fruits. 
Pontet-Canet,  1875.        Cardinal,  Sec,  FrappS. 

AX  EXGLISII  PRIVATE  PARTY. 

MENU. 

Ox -tail  Soup. 
Turbot  and  Lobster  Sauce. 

Filleted  Soles. 

Oyster  Pudding. 

Kidneys,  with  Murhrooms. 

Saddle  of  Mutton. 

Turkey. 

Grouse.          Pheasant. 

Wine  Jelly.          Apricot  Cream. 

Cheese.  Canapes. 

Cheese  and  Celery. 
Ice  Pudding.          Dessert. 

AT  A  SCOTTISH  XOBLEMAX'S. 

MENU. 

Puree  de  Xavets. 
Halibut. 

Rabbit  ii  la  Kirkham.     Roast  Criwfish. 

Chicken  a  la  Marengo.  Quails  a  la  Princess. 

Roast  Lamb  a  la  Dudley. 

Roast  Grouse. 

Imperial  Pudding.  Broiled  Peaches  and  Cream. 

Pistachio  Fritters.     Cream  Cheese  Fritters. 

Lemon  Jelly.    Strawberry  Cream.    Ices. 

Dessert. 


Potage  dcs  Asperges. 
Fried  Soles. 


AT  A  COLD  BALL  SUPPER. 
The  following  is  the  menu  of  one  of  the  largest 
ball  suppers  given  during  the  past  winter  season, 
and  served  by  the  leading  local  caterer: 

MENU. 

Raised  Pies  (Veal  and  Ham,  Pork,  Game,  etc.). 
Roast  Fowls.        Pressed  Tongues.        York  Hams. 

Mayonaise  of  Salmon.        Lobster  in  Aspic. 

Galatine  of  Veal.       Sandwiches.       Boned  Turkey. 

Italian  Salads.     Sweet  Salads  of  Fruits. 

Tipsy  Cakes. 

Neapolitan  Gateau.      Creams.      Jellies. 
Ices. 

A  HOT  SUPPER  OF  THE  SAME  CLASS. 

MENU.     * 

Soup  k  la  Relne.        Asparagus  Soup. 

Salmon. 

Truffled  Turkey.        Ox  Tongue.        Sirloin  of  Beef. 
Lamb.     Broiled  Chicken.     Yorkshire  Ham. 

Game  Pie.         Pheasants. 

Trifle.  German  Pastry. 

Fruit  Jelly.     Creams. 

Fruit. 

The  menu -cards  were  pretty,  no  two  being  alike, 
yet  all  of  delicate  design. 

DIXXER  GIVEX  BY  A  PHYSICIAX. 
A  dinner  given  by  one  of  the  medical  attendants 
of  the  late  Prince  Leopold. 

MENU. 
Clear  Soup. 

Salmon. 

Oyster   Patties. 

Sweetbreads. 

Lamb. 

Guinea  Fowls. 

Orange  Pudding.     Claret  Jelly. 
Anchovy  Toast.     Cheese. 

A  GERM  AX  MODEL  MENU. 
At  the  Windsor  Hotel,  Edinburgh,  a  dinner  was 
given  in  honor  of  the  German  Emperor's  ninetieth 
birthday.  There  were  about  fifty  gentlemen  pres- 
ent, of  course  mainly  composed  of  Germans,  but 
here  and  there  were  to  be  seen  Scotchmen  and  En- 
glishmen. The  viands  were  composed  largely  of 
German  dishes,  but  amid  the  foreign  names  loomed 
the  untranslatable  word  "haggis,"  the  familiar 
Scottish  national  dish.  On  the  menu  card  was  an 
excellent  portrait  of  the  emperor,  and  the  viands 
were  as  under: 

Kaiser  Suppe.     Huhner  Suppe. 
Sherry. 

Lachs,  mit  Hummer  Sauce.      Gebackene  Seezunge. 
Xiersteiner. 


Leipziger  Lerchen.     Kalbskopf. 

Haggis. 
Schaumwein.      Whisky. 

Sauerbraten  und  KISsse. 
Haasenbraten  und  Weinkraut 


Junge  Huhnen  und  Enten. 
Compot  und  Salad. 

Sachsischer  Auflauf.         Apfelkuchen. 

Siisse   Sulz. 

Rothwein.          Sherrv. 

Xachtisch. 


THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


223 


THE  GERMAN  EMPEROR'S  DINNER. 

The  following  is  a  copy  of  one  of  the  last  gala 

dinners  which  c/iefUrbain  Dubois  prepared  for  his 

illustrious    employers,   and  of  which,   as  well   he 

might,  "All-Highest-the-Same','  ate  very  heartily : 

Hiihnerbruhe  niit  Spargel-KOpfen. 

Schild-Kroten-Sunpe. 

Gebirgs-Forellen,  blau. 

Lendenbraten  mit  Kaviar-Br8dchen. 

Warme  Rebhiihner-Pasteten  init  Trflffeln. 

Helgolander  Hummer. 

Brusseler  Geflugel. 

BOmishe  Fasanen.        Salat. 

Artischoken-Bohnen  mit  jungen  Gemusen. 

Pilse  in  Petersilie. 
Butter  und  Kase.        Fruchte.        Eis.       Nachtisch. 

JUBILEE    SUPPER    AT    LANSDOWXK 
HOUSE. 

The  menu  of  the  jubilee  supper  at  Lansdowne 
House,  which  received  very  special  commendation 
from  the  Prince  of  Wales,  was  as  follows: 

Tortue  claire. 

Filets  de  soles  a  la  Ravigotte. 

Cailles  flanquees,  d'ortolans. 

Filets  de  volaille  a  la  Parisienne. 

Asperges  a  la  sauce  Hollandaise. 

Souffles  glaces  Panaches. 

This  is  a  very  simple  repast,  for  since  the  Prince 
of  Wales'  digestion  lost  the  edge  of  youth  he  has 
been  urging  every  one  to  give  simple  dinners.  It  is 
made  up  of  five  courses:  Clear  turtle  soup;  nllets 
of  sole,  served  with  Ravigotte  sauce  (a  maitre  d'ho- 
tel  sauce  with  Chili  vinegar,  anchovy,  etc.);  quail 
flanked  with  ortolans;  fillets  of  fowl  a  la  Parisienne, 
asparagus  with  Hollandaise  sauce  (yolk  of  eggs 
and  butter  with  vinegar);  and  a  souffle  with  harle- 
quin ices. 

MR.  IRVING'S  BEST  DINNER. 
In  Irving's  "  Impressions  of  America  "  due  pro- 
minence is  given  to  the  lavish  feasting  which  at: 
tended  the  well-known  artist's  triumphal  progress 
through  the  states.  He  was  greeted  everywhere 
with  complimentary  entertainments.  As  for  the 
means  of  some  of  his  smaller  banquets,  they  make 
one's  mouth  water;  and  Mr.  Irving  is  evidently  an 
intelligent  and  scientific  gourmet.  He  seems  to 
have  given  the  palm  to  a  simple  little  dinner  at 
Sieghortner's  in  New  York.  Oysters  on  the  hali 
shell,  lying  on  crushed  ice,  each  served  with  its 
separate  slice  of  lemon.  A  vegetable  soup  that  re- 
minded him  of  what  he  barbarously  misspells  as 
"Cock-u-lukie."  Terrapin  sent  up  hot  and  hot. 
("Next  to  going  to  heaven,"  said  a  friend  near  me, 
is  to  go  down  to  Baltimore  and  eat  terrapin.")  Can- 
vas-back duck— a  breast  on  each  plate,  with  potato 
chips  and  celery,  and  two  courses  of  the  ducks,  the 
first  roasted,  the  second  grilled  and  devilled.  A 
souffle,  cheese,  coffee  and  wines  that  were  worthy 
of  the  fare.  By  way  of  contrast  to  that  little  diner 
soigne,  we  have  an  amusing  account  of  a  "scratch" 
dinner  given  by  Irving  to  his  company  at  a  hote 
at  Toronto  in  the  winter,  and  consequent!}'  out  o: 
season.  After  telegraph  and  telephone  had  heei 


vorking  in  all  directions,  flashing  fruitless  mes- 
;ages  for  poultry  and  other  raw  material,  seventy 
quests  were  set  down  at  last  to  a  sufficiency  of  sub- 
tantial  food. 

Private    dinner  to  the   Prince    and  Princess    of 
Wales: 

Consomme  de  Volaille  Royale. 
Creme  d'Asperges  a  la  Comtesse. 

Turbot  braise  a  la  Vatel. 
Mousse  de  Saumon  a  la  Lavalliere. 

C6telettes  d'Agneau  Chatelaine. 
Medallions  de  Foie-gras  a  1'Aspic. 

Hanche  de  Venaison. 
Poulardes  Souffles. 

Ortolans  sur  Canapes. 
Petits  Pois  a  la  Francais. 

Parfait  leger  aux  Cerises. 
Gateau   Napolitain 

Tartelettes  Suisses. 

First  official  dinner  given  by  President  Carnot  at 

the  Elysee: 

Consomme  Bagration. 
Bisque  d'Ecrevisses. 

Bouchees  aux  Crevettes. 

Saumon,  Sauce  G^nevoise. 
Cuissot  de  Chevreuil  Saint  Hubert. 

Supreme  de  Volaille  aux  Truffes. 
C&telettes  d'Agneau  aux  Petits  Pois. 

Mauviettes  a  la  Lucullus. 
Salade  d'Homard  a  la  Russe. 

Sorbets. 

Faisans  truffes,  Sauce  PeVigueux. 
Pates  de  Foie  Gras  de  Nancy. 

Asperges  en  Branches. 
Haricots  Verts  Nouveaux. 

Glace  Diplomate. 
Gateaux  Mousseline  a  1'Orange. 

Menu  of  a  dinner  given  by  the  Sultan  of  Turkey 
to  the  Prince  Jerome  Napoleon  on  the  ist  of  July: 
Potage  a  la  reine. 

Beureg. 

Poisson  a  la  Turque. 

Filet  de  bosuf  a  la  Godard. 

Poulets  nouveaux  a  1'Orientale. 

C6telettes  d'agneau  aux  petits  pois. 

Hiar  Dornassy. 

Homards  en  Belle-vue 

Asperges  bouillies,  sauce  au  beurre. 

Punch  a  la  Romaine. 

Dindonneaux  r&tis  au  jus. 

Pilau. 

Visnali  ekmeg. 

Gel6e  macedoine  de  fruits. 

Faouk  gheuksu. 

Fromage  glac6. 

A  KING  FLUSH  AND  A  ROYAL  DINNER. 

Menu  of  a  notable  dinner  given  by  Earl  Cadogan 
at  Chelsea  House  to  the  royalties  in  London.  Cov- 
ers were  laid  for  forty-eight.  The  company  in- 


224 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


eluded  the  King  of  Denmark,  the  King  of  Greece, 
the  King  of  the  Belgians,  the  Crown  Prince  of  j 
Austria,  the  Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales  and  Prin- 
cesses Louise  and  Victoria  of  Wales,  the  Crown 
Prince  and  Crown  Princess  of  Portugal,  the  Crown 
Prince  of  Sweden,  the  Grand  Duke  and  Grand 
Duchess  Serge  of  Russia,  the  Duke  of  Aosta,  Prince 
and  Princess  William  of  Prussia,  the  Infante  Anto- 
nio and  the  Infanta  Euialie,  and  the  Heriditary 
Prince  and  Princess  of  Meiningen. 


Consomme  i  la  Royale. 
Crfime  d'Asperges. 

Whitebait. 
Filets  de  Truites  froides  en  Souchet. 

C6telettes  d'Agneau  Duchesse. 
Chaudfroid  de  Cailles  aux  Truffes. 

Poulardes  aux  Pruneaux. 

Filet  Piques  froids,  Sauce  Cumberland. 

Salades  Russe  et  Tomates. 

Ortolans  sur  Canapes. 
Pois  a  1'Anglaise. 

Bavarois  1  la  Montreuil. 

Souffles  de  Fraises. 
Croustades  aux  Fromages. 

WHEN  PRIXCE  MEETS  PRINCE. 

Menu  of  a  dinner  given  by  the  Crown  Prince 
Rudolph  of  Austria  to  the  Prince  of  Wales  on  the 
24  of  September,  iSSS,  at  the  "  Lacher  Garten," 
Prater,  in  Vienna: 

Huttres. 

Consomme^  a  la  Sevigne. 

Bisque  d'ecrevisses. 
Saumon  du  Rhin,  sauce  Hollandaise,  et  sauce 

Genevoise. 

Piece  de  bceuf,  k  la  jardiniere. 

Pate  de  canard  traffics,  h  la  gelee. 

Poulardes  a  la  Toulouse. 

Ponche  Stephanie. 
Selle  de  chevreuil.        Faisans  de  Boheme. 

Salade. 
Fonds  d'artichants  k  la  moelle. 

Souffle"  au  chocolat. 

•     Glaces  historiees.         Fruits.         Fromage. 
Caf<§. 

AN  EXCELLENT  DINNER 
at  the  house  of  one  of  the  most  elegant  of  the 
grandes  dames  of  Paris:. 

MEXf. 

Consomme  Royal. 

Tartelettes-a  la  Russe. 

Filets  de  Turbpts  Chambord. 

Selles  de  Marcassin,  Sauce  Tartare. 

Casseroles  de  Ris  de  Veau  Petits  Pois. 

Bartavelles  aux  Ceps  de  Bordeaux. 

Marquises  Jamaique. 

Dinde  truffee.         Salade. 

Foies  Gras  Lumineux  Truffes. 

Cardons  &  la  Moelle. 

Bombe  Grande  Duchesse. 

Fromages.     Desserts. 

A  NOVELTY 

"This  was  one  of  the  best  dinners  I  have  had  for 
some  time.  I  want  specially  to  call  your  attention 
to  the  item  foiex  gras  lumineux  irnfffs,  which  is  a 


very  attractive  novelty.  The  dish  is  a  hollow  cone 
of  tinted  ice.  Inside  the  ice  is  placed  a  light.  Along 
the  sides  of  the  cone  are  laid  rows  of  roundels  of 
foie  grtix,  diminishing  in  size  from  bottom  to  top. 
In  each  roundel  is  a  slice  of  truffle.  The  light  shin- 
ing through  the  ice  has  a  wonderfully  pretty  effect, 
whilst  the  cold  keeps  the  pate  defoie  gras  firm  and 
fresh  as  it  should  be.  Another  variety  is  to  set  the 
foie  gras  in  slices  on  a  large  block  of  ice  in  the 
centre  of  the  table,  the  ice  to  be  made  luminous  in 
the  method  described.  I  recommend  this  noveltv  to 
the  attention  of  hotel  keepers  who  do  elegant  din- 
ners, or  even  for  first-class  table  d' holes." 

DRAMATIC  SUPPER. 

"Supper  served  on  the  stage  of  the  Gaiet6  Theatre 
here  on  the  occasion  of  the  looth  representation  of 
Le  Grand  Mogol,  and  offered  bv  the  lessee,  Mr. 
Debruyere,  and  the  authors  of  the  piece,  to  the 
actors  and  many  representatives  of  Paris  art,  litera- 
ture, society,  and  finance: 

Potage  Irma,  Consomme  Bengaline. 
Truites  du  Gange,  Sauce  Brahma  et  Sauce 

Vischnou. 

Filet  Mignapour  aux  Truffes  et  aux  Champignons. 
Jambon  Crakson  aux  pointes  d'Asperges. 

Faisans  et  Perdreaux  des  Jungles. 
Pate  de  Foie  Gras  a  la  Joquelet. 

Salade  Bayadere. 

Bombe  Nicobar. 

Dessert. 

VIMS, 

Bordeaux  retour  de  1'Inde  et  Champagne 

Grand  Mogol. 
Cafe.          Liqueurs. 

You  will  perceive  that  the  coleur  locale  is  well  pre- 
served." 

A  GOOD   MENU. 

"  The  following  is  a  good  menu,  as  I  can  vouch 
from  personal  experience: 

Consomme  aux  ceuf  s  poches. 

Aloyau  Portugaise. 
Timbale  de  macaroni. 

Cailles  r6ties. 
Cardons  &  la  moelle. 
Charlotte  de  pommes. 

"Here  is  the  recipe  for  the  Aloyau  Portugaise 
mentioned  above:  Prepare  a  piece  of  faux -filet;  lard 
it;  steep  it  in  a  little  olive-oil  and  cognac-brandy 
for  an  hour  before  cooking.  Have  stuffed  tomatoes 
and  roast  with  your  faux-filet.  When  it  is  ready- 
place  the  tomatoes  round  the  meat  and  pour  Madeira 
sauce  over  the  whole." 

GOOD  COOKING  IN  POLITICS. 

The  World's  statement  commences  as  follows: 
"Lord  Cadogan's  chef  is  unquestionably  a  factor  in 
politics,  for  the  Lord  Privy  Seal's  Saturday  dinners 
are,  in  their  way,  almost  as  important  as  Lady 
Salisbury's  Wednesday  receptions."  Our  contem- 
porary then  goes  on  to  praise  the  white  dining  room 
of  Cadogan  House,  and  to  describe  the  dinner  to  a 
distinguished  company,  of  which  M.  Isoard  sends 
us  the  menu  here  transcribed: 


TifE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


225 


Consomme  Profiteroles. 
Creme  d:Orge  a  1'Ecossaise. 

Filets  de  Truites,  Sauce  Genevoise. 
Souffles  d'Eperlans. 

Cailles  aux  Raisins. 
C6telettes  d'Agneau  aux  Concombres. 

Filet  de  Boeuf  piqu£,  Sauce  Madere. 
Legumes. 

Sorbets  au  Rhum. 


Poulets  d'Inde  au  Cresson. 
Pains  d'Epinards  a  1'Espagnole. 

Babas  h  1'Allemande. 

Xeiges  au  Moka. 
Biscottes  au  Fromage. 

A  CHINESE  DINNER  IN  NEW  YORK. 

Excise  Commissioner  William  S.  Andrews,  who 
has  for  years  been  ambitious  to  eat  a  regulation 
Chinese  dinner,  ate  one  last  night,  and  thinks  that 
he  will  be  able  to  get  out  to-day.  Wong  Chin  Foo 
was  his  host.  Dressed  in  an  American  derby  and 
overcoat  and  other  American  things,  Wong  led  the 
way  to  the  Chinese  chop  house  at  14  Mott  street. 
The  Commissioner  was  in  evening-  dress.  He 
brought  along  two  New  York  friends  to  help  him, 
and  when  they  had  mastered  the  chopsticks  they 
drove  right  through  fourteen  courses  of  d:"jier 
without  quailing.  It  took  nearly  three  hours,  and 
this  was  the  bill  of  the  performance: 

1.  Tea,  served  in  costly  china  cups. 

2.  Cake. 

3.  Lichee  nuts. 

4.  Sweetmeats. 

5.  Roast  duck. 

6.  Roast  chicken. 

7.  Boned  ducks  feet  fried,  with  mushrooms  and 
bamboo  shoots. 

S.  Chicken  bones  fried  in  lard  until  the  bone  was 
soft  as  the  flesh,  and  dressed  with  Chinese  sweet 
pickle,  ginger  and  celery. 

9.  American   pike   fried,    with   mushrooms    and 
water  lily  potato. 

10.  Cuttlefish,  with  Chinese  sweet  turnips  and 
saifun  beans. 

11.  Tchowmien     macaroni,     flour    stewed    with 
chicken,  celery  and  mushrooms. 

12.  Chinese  sausages,  composition  uncertain. 

13.  Citron  soup,  with  shrimps. 

14.  Lotus  seed  and  apricot  seed  soup. 
Commissioner  Andrews  washed  it  all  down  with 

three  kinds  of  Chinese  wine.  One  was  the  notnai- 
dayo  pear  wine,  the  second  a  white  wine  distiHed 
from  rice,  and  the  third  Chinese  gin  made  of  apricot 
seed. 

A  MEXICAN  MENU. 

The  Mexican  idea  of  the  first  meal  in  the  morning 
is  a  cup  of  coffee  and  a  small  loaf  of  bread  or  bis- 
cuit. The  guest  may  have  that  in  his  room  if  he 
likes,  and  he  can  have  it  supplemented  with  a  beef- 
steak or  eggs.  At  twelve  o'clock  dinner — la  comida 


— is  ready.  A  bill  of  fare,  just  as  brought  from  the 
table  of  the  Jardin,  is  subjoined  in  Mexican  and 
translation : 

DINNER   BILL   OF  FARE. 

Soups. 
A  la  Roiuada. 

Rice. 

Entrees. 

Eggs  in  all  styles. 


MENU   DE   LA   COMIDA. 

Sofas. 
A  la  Romana. 

Arros. 

Entradas. 

Huevos  al  gusto. 

Huachinango  a  la  Ma- 


ango  a 
tellot. 
Beefsteak  o'costillas. 
Japonesas  de  salmi. 
Salchichas  conchiharos. 


Fernerita  con  salpicon. 
Chiles  rellonos. 

Asadoa. 

Roastbeef. 

Lfftimbres. 

Califlores. 

Papas  al  vapor. 

Frijoles. 

Pastres. 

Fresas — helado. 

Cafe,  tee. 


Red  snapper  a  la  Matellot. 

Beefsteak  or  mutton 
chops. 

Chicken  croquettes. 
Sausages  with  green  peas. 


Roast  veal. 
Stuffed  chillies. 

Roasts. 

Roast  beef. 

Vegetables. 

Cauliflower. 

Boiled  potatoes. 

Beans. 

Dessert. 

Strawberries  —  ice  cream. 
Coffee,  tea. 

This  meal  is  $i.  The  dishes  arc  served  one  at  a 
time.  A  foreigner  may  be  a  little  surprised  at  first 
to  find  eggs  elevated  to  such  an  important  position 
in  the  bill  of  fare  —  they  follow  the  soup  —  but  he 
speedily  discovers  that  Mexican  eggs  are  always 
fresh,  and  he  takes  his  "huevos"  boiled,  fried,  or  in 
omelet  as  regularly  as  the  dinner  comes  round.  The 
Mexican  cooks  have  learned  that  there  can  be  an 
excess  of  pepper  to  some  tastes,  and  they  serve 
"con  chile"  or  without  it  as  desired,  the  fiery  sauce 
being  provided  in  a  bowl  instead  of  being  poured 
over  the  eggs  or  meat  before  leaving  the  kitchen. 
This  is  a  great  deal  better  than  the  old  way,  for  a 
stranger  can  learn  to  like  the  chilli  a  good  deal 
better  if  he  takes  it  in  homcepathic  doses,  instead  of 
burning  his  throat  out  in  ignorance  the  first  time  of 
sitting  down  to  a  Mexican  meal. 

TABLES  VOLANTES  OR  FLYING  TABLES. 
The  inventors  have  a  long  way  to  travel  before 
their  tables  can  beat  the  magical  appearance  and 
disappearance  of  some  tables  I  have  seen  in  well 
managed  hotels.  Take  this  instance  of  preparation 
for  a  ball  supper:  There  was  but  one  room  in  the 
hotel  large  enough  to  dance  in,  and  that  was  the 
dining  room.  It  was  also  the  only  room  in  which 
to  serve  the  supper.  The  question  was  how  to  use 
it  for  both  purposes  at  once  without  an  awkward 
break  in  the  festivities,  and  as  it  was  a  grand  ball, 
instead  of  a  social  hop,  a  "handed  -round  supper" 
would  not  do.  There  were  two  side  rooms  which 
opened  into  the  dining  room  and  also  on  the  outside, 
and  in  these,  without  the  least  sign  apparent  to  the 
guests,  six  long  tables  were  set  complete  with  flow- 
ers, lights,  decorated  pieces,  salads,  sweets,  meats, 
ices,  etc.,  everything  except  coffee.  It  was  arranged 
with  the  musicians  and  the  floor  manager  and  at  a 
certain  time  by  the  clock  the  company  were  led  in  a 
march  to  the  further  end,  out  of  one  door,  through 
a  bay-windowed  conservatory  and  back  into  the 
dining  room  through  another  door,  and  as  they 


226 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


entered  they  saw,  where  they  had  been  dancing  but 
five  minutes  before,  a  brilliant  set  table  nearly  the 
whole  length  of  the  room.  They  said,  of  course,  it 
was  more  like  magic  than  common  reality.  If  any 
of  them  had  turned  their  head,  like  Lot's  wife, 
while  they  were  marching,  they  would  have  seen 
the  tables  following  them,  for  at  the  same  signal  each 
of  the  six  tables  had  been  taken  up  by  four  waiting 
men  and  carried  as  it  was  to  the  place  previously 
marked  for  it.  When  the  supper  was  over  the 
tables  were  carried  out  with  like  expedition. 

A  QUOTATION  MENU. 

Private  dinner  at  the  Magnolia  Hotel,  St.  Johns 
River,  Florida: 

11UITRES. 

"Lying  with  simple  shells." 

Chateau  Yquem.  — Pericles,  act  Hi,  scene. 

"When  the  butt  is  out  we  will  drink  water;  not 

a  drop  before. — Tempest,  act  Hi,  scene  it. 

POTAGE. 

Tortue  verte,  claire. 
"A  most  delicate  monster." 

Duke's  Montillo.  — Tempest,  act  ii,  scene  IT. 

"  Give  me  a  cup  of  sack." 

— Henry  IV,  part  i,  act  ii,  scene  h: 

HORS  D'oeUVRES. 

Varies.  Varies. 

Petits  vols-au-vent,  a  la  financiere. 

"A  mystery;  aye,  sir,  a  mystery." 

— Measure  for  Measure,  act  iv,  scene  ii. 
POISSON. 
Pompano. 
"A  royal  fish;  it  shall  be  divided." 

— /  Black,  Com.,  ccxxi:. 
"That  sort  was  well  fished  for." 

—  Tempest,  act  ii,  scene  i. 
Pommes  de  terre. 

Concombres.  Tomates. 

Rudesheimer. 

RELEVE. 

Filet  de  boeuf,  pique,  aux  truffes  Perigord. 
"What  say  you  to  a  piece  of  beef  and  mustard?" 

—  Taming  of  the  Shrew,  act  ir<,  scene  lit. 
"The  ox  knoweth  its  owner  and_  the  ass  his  master's 

crib." — Isaiah  i,  Hi. 
Moet  and  Chandon's  Cremant  d'Ay. 

"Come,  thou  monarch  of  the  vine, 
Plumpy  Bacchus,  with  pink  eyne." 
— Anthony  and  Cleopatra,  act  ii,  scene  TH. 

ENTREMETS. 

Points  d'asperges  au  beurre. 

Petits  pois,  a  la  Francaise. 

Champignons,  frais,  au  champagne. 

"To  feed  on  flowers  and  weeds  of  glorious  feature." 

— Spencer  :   The  Fate  of  the  Butterfly,  line  aoq. 

Pat^  de  volaille  en  Bellevue. 

"For  this,  be  sure,  to-night  thou  shalt  have  cramps; 
1  Side-stitches  that)  shall  pen  thy  breath  up." 

—  Tempest,  act  I,  scene  ii. 
Chateau  Margaux. 

"The  next  they  brought  up  was  a  bottle  of  wine  as 
red  as  blood." — Banyan's  Pilgrim's  Progress. 
Mayonaise  de  chevrette. 


"This  salad  was  born  to  do  me  good." 

Henry   VI,  part  ii,  act  iv. 
Tomates,  farcis,  a  la  duchesse. 
"  'Appetite  comes  with  eating,'  says  Angeston." 

— Rabelais. 

Grenadines  de  filet  de  chapon,  a  la  Sultan. 
"A  feast  of  fat  things." 

— Isaiah,  xxr,  -•>. 

Sorbet  au  fleur  d'orange. 
"What!  must  our  mouths  be  cold  :" 

Tempest,  act  i,  scene  i. 
ROTIS. 

B£casse.  Becassines,  a  1'Anglaise. 

"What  is  the  opinion  of  Pythagoras   concerning 

wildfowl  ^—Tioelfth  Night,  act  h-,  scene  ii. 
"The  peacock  is  an  aga,  but  the  little  bird  is  a  bul- 
bul." — Thackeray,  Oriental  Love  Song. 

SALADE. 

"My  salad  days,' 
When  I  was  green  in  judgment." 

Anthony  and  Cleopatra,  act  i,  scene  ^•. 
Chambertin. 

"We  shall  feast  high  with  the  blood  of  Burgundy." 
— Scott,  Quentin  Dur-:<drd. 

SUCRES. 

Omelette  souffle. 
Charlotte,  a  la  Russe.  Gelee  au  champagne. 

"A  wilderness  of  sweets." 
— Milton  ;  Paradise  Lost,  book  r,  line  234. 
"We  are  such  stuff 
As  dreams  are  made  of." 

— •  Tempest,  act  iv,  Scene  i. 
Glace  Napolitaine. 
"When  it  is  baked  with  frost." 

—  Tempest,  act  i,  scene  ii, 

FROMAGE. 

"Copia  press!  lactis." 

—  Vergilius,  Eel.  i. 
Roquefort.  Stilton. 

OLIVES. 
"Let  us  have  peace!" — Ulysef. 

FRUITS   ET  DESSERT. 

"Stay  me  with  flagons;  comfort  me  with  apples." 

— Song  of  Solomon,  xi,  v. 
CAFE. 

"Coffee,  which  makes  the  politician  wise, 
And  see  through  all  things  with  his  half -shut  eves." 
—Pope,  Rape  of  the  'Lock. 
Chartreuse. 

"Good!  yet  remember  whom  thou  hast  abroad." 

— Tempest,  act  t,  scene  i. 

Menu  of  the  supper  served  at  a  great  charity  ball 
given  at  the  H6tel  de  Ville  in  aid  of  the  poor  of 
Paris.  The  feast  was  served  by  Messrs.  Polet  and 
Chabot,  of  the  Rue  Vivienne,  at  ten  francs  a  head: 

Consomme  de  volaille. 
Truite  saumonee,  sauce  verte  froide. 

Filet  de  boeuf  glacee. 

Galantine  de  poularde  truffee. 

Chaufroid  de  merles  de  Corse. 

Pate's  de  foie  gras  de  Strasbourg. 

Salade  Venetienne. 

Dessert. 

Bordeaux.  Medoc. 

Partaken  of  by  at  least  five  thousand  persons,  more 
than  a  thousand  being  turned  empty  away. 


WHITEHEAD'S  DICTIONARY  OF  DISHES. 


CULINARY   TERMS    AND    VARIOUS    INFORMATION    PER- 
TAINING TO  THE  STEWARD'S  DEPARTMENT. 


ABALONE — A  shell  fish  cooked  and  served  in 
Chinese  restaurants  in  California.  The  shell  is  pearl 
of  brilliant  hues,  largely  employed  In  the  decorative 
arts.  The  abalone  trade  of  California  has  been 
recently  estimated  to  amount  to  about  $250,000  a  year. 
The  flesh  of  these  moll  usks  is  preserved  by  drying 
and  afterwards  prepared  for  use  by  soaking  in  hot 
water;  it  is  described  as  being  tasteless  and  tough  as 
India  rubber  when  first  put  into  the  mouth,  but  soon 
breaks  into  granules  with  an  agreeable  flavor. 

ABATOIR  (Fr.)— Slaughter  house. 

ABATIS  (Fr.)  — Giblets.  Pate  aux  abatis  is 
giblel  pie.  ABATIS  DE  DINDE  A  LA  CHIPOLAT  •  is 
turkey  giblets  with  sausages,  etc. 

ABERDEEN  SANDWICHES— Hot  sandwiches 
of  fried  bread  in  rounds  like  silver  dollars,  spread 
with  minced  chicken  or  other  meats  well  seasoned. 

ABERNETHY  BISCUIT  —  A  round,  sweet 
cracker  flavored  with  caraway  seed.  Common  in 
English  shops. 

ABSINTHE — An  intoxicating  liquor,  a  common 
tipple  in  France,  made  of  the  extract  of  the  weed 
wormwood  and  caraway  seed  in  alcohol.  Occasion- 
ally used  in  punches  and  fancy  drinks. 

ACCOLADE  (Fr.)— Brace,  pair;  accolade  deper- 
dreaux  is  brace  of  partridges. 

ACCIDENTS — Most  frequently  occurring  in  ho- 
tels are  burns,  scalds  and  cuts.  Handles  come  off 
boilers  of  hot  water  or  hot  fat;  frying  vessels  full  of 
boiling  lard  tip  over,  steam  rushes  out  from  under  a 
lid,  or  out  of  faucets  instead  of  the  water  which  has 
boiled  away;  red  hot  iron  range  lids  and  griddles  are 
taken  hold  off  by  mistake,  vats  and  tubs  of  boiling 
water  are  stumbled  into  or  overturned.  Wounds  are 
received  in  cutting  and  chopping  meat  and  in  the 
breakage  of  crockery  and  glass.  In  the  treatment  of 
burns  or  scalds,  the  first  object  is  to  protect  the  in- 
jured part  from  the  air.  Pieces  of  lint  or  cotton, 
dipped  in  carron  oil,  will  serve  for  this  purpose. 
Carron  oil  (so  called  from  being  much  used  for  burns 
at  the  Carron  Iron  Works,  Scotland,)  is  a  mixture  of 
equal  parts  of  linseed  oil  and  lime  water.  When 
carron  oil  is  not  at  hand,  the  burned  or  scalded  part 
may  be  covered  thickly  with  flour,  olive  oil,  or  vase- 
line. If  some  of  the  clothing  sticks  to  the  body,  do 


(227) 


not  try  to  tear  it  away;  leave  it  alone  and  cut  around 
the  spot.  In  severe  burns  or  scalds,  the  services  of  a 
surgeon  should  be  secured  as  soon  as  possible. 
When  the  injury  is  slight,  baking  soda,  applied 
either  dry  or  wet,  gives  instant  relief.  For  scalds 
from  steam  or  water  or  for  slight  burns,  dip  the  part 
in  cold  water  and  apply  fine  salt  as  much  as  will 
adhere.  This  will  usually  prevent  a  blister.  CUTS — 
In  case  of  a  ruptured  artery,  the  flow  of  blod  may  be 
checked  by  tying  a  twisted  handkerchief,  a  cord,  or 
strap,  bel-ween  the  -wound  and  the  body.  If  the  hand 
is  cut,  raise  the  arm  above  the  head  and  bind  it 
tightly.  In  mounds  of  the  throat,  armpit,  or  groin, 
caused  by  cuts,  and  in  case  of  any  deep  wound, 
thrust  the  thumb  and  finger  into  the  bottom  of  the 
wound  and  pinch  up  the  part  from  which  the  blood 
comes,  directing  the  pressure  against  the  flow.  If 
the  cut  is  slight,  let  the  blood  flow  for  half  a  minute, 
then  dip  in  cold  water  or  apply  ice.  Draw  the  cut 
edges  closely  together  with  adhesive  plaster,  or  by 
stitches  and  a  bandage,  and  keep  the  part  quiet. 
Slight  cuts  will  usually  heal  quickly.  In  severe 
cuts,  check  the  flow  of  blood  and  secure  the  attend- 
ance of  a  physician  as  soon  as  possible.  In  cases  of 
asphyxiation  by  foul  air,  charcoal  fumes,  blowing 
out  the  gas,  drowning,  etc.,  artifical  respiration 
should  be  induced.  Loosen  the  clothing,  or,  better, 
remove  it;  rub  the  body  with  warm  cloths:  grasp  the 
tongue  with  a  towel  and  draw  it  forward;  hold  it 
there  for  a  moment,  then  turn  the  patient  on  his  face, 
with  his  forehead  resting  on  one  of  his  arms,  and 
apply  hartshorn  or  snuff  to  the  nostrils;  then  turn 
the  patient  on  his  back,  and  dash  first  warm,  then 
cold  water  in  the  face.  If  this  fails,  grasp  the  arms 
at  the  elbow  and  drav#  them  slowly  upwards  above 
the  head,  keeping  them  there  for  two  seconds;  then 
turn  down  the  arms  and  press  them  firmly  against 
the  ribs  for  two  seconds,  repeating  these  movements, 
carefully  and  perseveringly,  about  fifteen  times  in  a 
minute,  until  respiration  becomes  natural;  after  this, 
apply  cloths  wet  with  hot  water  to  the  limbs  and 
body,  and  cover  with  blankets.  As  soon  as  practic- 
able give  hot  drinks.  (¥  of  poisoning  see  antidotes.) 

ACETIC  ACID— Pastry  cooks  and  confectioners 
use  't  in  small  quantities  to  whiten  and  stiffen  cake 
icing,  and  to  prevent  granulation  in  boiling  sugar. 


228 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


ACI 

It  is  vinegar  concentrated  and  refined  and  costs  but 
little.  Substitutes  for  it  are  lemon  juice,  cream  tar- 
tar, tartaric  acid  and  citric  acid.  Acetic,  boracic 
and  salycilic  acids  are  all  employed  as  dressings  to 
Jin-serve  raw  meats  from  spoiling  when  exported  to 
great  distances. 

ACID — The  harmless  fruit  acids  used  in  cookery 
are  those  named  above  (see  acetic  acid),  obtained 
from  fruits  of  the  citrus  family,  lemons,  limes,  etc., 
the  lees  of  wine  and  from  vinegar.  Oxalic  acid  is 
poison  though  obtained  from  the  weed  oxalis  or 
sorrel,  which  we  cook  and  is  harmless.  Prussic 
acid  is  a  poison  although  it  is  present  in  minute 
quantities  and  gives  the  pleasant  bitter  flavor  to  the 
leaves  and  fruit  of  trees  of  the  almond  tribe,  which 
are  freely  used.  An  acid  stirred  into  a  solution  of 
cochineal  changes  it  from  purple  to  scarlet,  hence 
cake  icing  and  other  substances  colored  with  cochi- 
neal have  a  brighter  tint  if  they  are  slightly  acid- 
ulated. Lemon  juice  or  other  acids  stirred  into  such 
mixtures  as  boiling  pudding  sauce,  tapioca  or  starch 
jelly  and  some  soups,  generally  will  change  their 
bluish  appearance  to  clear  transparency.  Lemon 
juice  or  other  acid  is  often  required  to  make  a  sim- 
ilar change  in  gelatine  jelly  and  in  strong  consom- 
mes, which  sometimes  become  too  rich  and  viscid 
to  pass  through  the  strainer  until  cut  with  a  dash  of 
acid.  Acids  act  upon  copper  or  brass  so  as  to 
brighten  the  surfaces.  Acid  and  salt  will  clean  a 
copper  or  brass  vessel,  the  brightened  surface  soon 
tarnishes,  however,  unless  dry  polished  afterwards. 
Acids  act  upon  copper  and  brass  vessels  in  such  a 
way  as  to  produce  a  poison  called  verdigris,  which 
forms  at  the  edge  where  the  air,  acid  and  copper  are 
in  contact.  Stewed  fruit,  cranberries,  pickles,  slaw, 
salads,  etc.,  acquire  a  bitter  taste  and  become  poi- 
sonous if  left  standing  a  few  hours  in  copper  or 
brass,  and  brass  spoons  from  which  the  plating  is 
worn  off  become  coated  with  a  bitter  tasting  poison 
if  left  in  dishes  of  fruit  jelly,  sauce,  pickles,  salads, 
or  anything  that  contains  an  acid.  Acids  act  on 
iron  in  such  a  way  that  sour  bread  dough  set  to  rise 
in  iron  pans  becomes  stained  as  with  ink.  They  act 
on  tin  and  zinc  to  a  less  degree,  but  salads  contain- 
ing vinegar  acquire  an  unpleasant  metallic  taste  in 
tin  pans,  and  should  be  made  and  kept  in  glass  or 
earthenware  bowls.  Acids,  like  lemon  slices  or 
juice  or  vinegar,  will  whiten  boiling  chickens,  fish, 
turkeys,  calf's  head,  sweetbreads,  etc.,  provided  the 
vessel  used  to  boil  in  be  bright  and  new,  but  if  an 
iron  vessel  or  a  tin  one  much  worn,  the  action  of  the 
acid  will  often  spoil  the  appearance  of  the  fish  or 
meat  entirely  by  turning  them  blue  and  of  a  dirtv 
color,  and  when  such  vessels  with  the  tinning 
mostly  worn  off  must  be  used,  the  vinegar  or  lemon 
juice  should  be  omitted.  (See  boracic  acid.)  Acids 
dissolve  sea  shells  and  egg  shells  immersed  in  them; 
their  action  upon  the  lime  of  the  shells  produces  a 
slow  effervescense  until  the  lime  is  all  driven  off.  i 
In  like  manner  lemon  juice  injures  the  finger  nails,  ; 
mal'ing  them  brittle  and  jagged.  A  very  slight  ' 


ADE 

acidity  or  sourness  is  generally  productive  of  white- 
ness in  bread  and  cake,  while  the  opposite  alkalim- 
ity  produces  a  yellow  or  dusk  color,  thus  bread  just 
on  the  point  of  turning  sour  is  the  whiter,  and  bread 
made  with  milk  turns  out  whiter  through  the  form- 
ation of  lactic  acid  or  the  souring  of  the  milk  in  it 
while  rising,  but  the  addition  of  soda  to  counteract 
the  slight  sourness  would  make  it  a  darker  shade. 
In  cake -making  the  addition  of  lemon  juice  or  cream 
tartar  alone  produces  both  lightness  and  whitenes>, 
while  soda  or  baking  powder  added  has  the  effect 
to  make  the  hue  either  dull  yellow  or  grey. 

ACID  AND  SODA— The  original  baking  powder 
or  yeast  powder,  mixed  and  used  by  cooks  and  bak- 
ers before  prepared  baking  powders  became  a  reg- 
ular article  of  manufacture  and  sale.  (See  baking 
powder.) 

ACID  AND  ALKALI— Acids  mixed  with  such 
alkalies  as  soda,  saleratus,  potash,  marble  dust  and 
lime,  when  wetted,  begin  to  change  into  gas  which 
rises  into  the  atmosphere  and  is  lost,  but  if  the 
change  takes  place  within  a  lump  of  dough  that 
becomes  light  with  innummerable  bubbles  of  the 
gas,  which  expanding  still  more  with  the  heat  in 
baking  make  a  light  and  spongy  loaf.  Soda  foun- 
tains are  charged  by  placing  marble  dust,  which  is 
one  form  of  lime,  in  the  generator,  pouring  dilute 
sulphuric  acid  upon  it  and  immediately  screwing 
down  the  lid.  The  acid  and  lime  change  into  gas 
which  can  only  escape  through  a  pipe  into  another 
tight  vessel  nearly  filled  with  water,  where  it  re- 
mains imprisoned  until  drawn  from  the  soda  fount. 
Whether  in  bread  or  in  a  soda  fountain,  if  the  acid 
and  alkali  are  not  properly  matched  in  quantity,  a 
portion  of  either  one  or  the  other  will  remain  behind 
unused  and  unchanged  in  the  bread  or  in  the  gener- 
ator. When  they  are  rightly  proportioned  they  still 
do  not  all  go  off  in  the  gas,  but  leave  a  remainder,  a 
new  compound  called  a  salt,  which  may  be  only 
common  salt  or  may  be  something  hurtful,  accord- 
ing to  the  kinds  of  acids  and  alkalis  employed.  Ac- 
cording to  one  of  the  stories  from  history,  Cleopatra 
owned  the  largest  and  most  valuable  pearl  in  the 
world  of  her  day,  and  dissolved  it  in  a  cup  of  vine- 
gar and  drank  it.  Strong  vinegar  would  dissolve 
the  pearl,  considerable  time  being  allowed,  nitric 
acid  would  have  consumed  it  in  a  few  minutes,  yet 
Cleopatra  did  not  drink  the  pearl;  it  passed  off  in 
the  form  of  gas.  If  she  drank  during  the  efferves- 
cense she  drank  a  sort  of  soda  water.  If  the  pearl 
and  vinegar  were  just  sufficient  to  neutralize  each 
other,  when  the  pearl  disappeared  the  vinegar  had 
lost  its  sourness  and  Cleopatra  drank  only  water 
containing  a  nearly  tasteless  tartrate. 

ACID  ICING — Meringue  or  frosting  made  with 
lemon  juice  in  equal  quantity  with  white  of  eggs. 

ACIDULATED  PUDDING  —  Sponge  cake 
slices,  saturated  with  lemon  syrup  and  covered  with 
custard  in  a  dish. 

ADELAIDE    SANDWICHES— Hot  rounds  of 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


229 


ADM 

fried  bread  with  minced  chicken,  etc.,  between,  like  j 
Aberdeen  sandwiches,  with  a  small  ball  of  cheese 
baked  upon  top  of  each  just  before  serving. 

ADMIRAL  PUDDING— A  boiled  suet  plum 
pudding,  made  with  mashed  potatoes  and  carrots 
'each  in  equal  proportion  to  the  flour. 

ADMIRAL  SAUCE  —  Anchovy  sauce  with 
chopped  capers  and  shallots  added,  and  very  little 
lemon  rind;  in  other  words,  butter  sauce  with 
pounded  anchovies,  shallots,  capers  and  little  lemon 
rind  in  it;  good  for  boiled  fish. 

ADAM'S  APPLE— The  banana;  supposed  by 
some  to  be  the  fruit  of  which  Adam  ate. 

AERATED  BREAD— Bread  charged  with  gas 
the  same  as  generated  in  soda  fountains.  The  loaves 
are  inclosed  in  a  tight  mould,  gas  forced  into  them, 
and  baked.  In  baking,  the  gas  expanding  makes 
the  bread  light.  The  effect  is  similar  to  mixing 
acid  and  soda  in  the  flour,  but  there  is  no  residue  of 
salts  left  in  the  bread  by  this  method,  and  there  is 
no  loss  of  the  flour  as  in  fermentation,  which  pro- 
cess changes  part  of  the  flour  to  a  gas  which  raises 
the  bread.  Companies  with  large  capital  are  carry- 
ing on  the  aerated  bread  business  in  several  cities. 
"The  method  of  Dr.  Dauglish,  the  results  of  which 
are  now  made  so  well  known  by  the  catering  energy 
of  the  Aerated  Bread  Company,  depends  upon  the 
fact  that  water  may  be  made  to  hold  within  itself  a 
large  quantity  of  liquid  carbonic  acid  under  pressure, 
which  it  liberates  as  gas  when  the  pressure  is  re- 
moved or  diminished,  as  shown  by  soda  water  and 
other  aerated  liquids.  The  flour,  with  as  much  salt 
as  is  required,  is  placed  in  a  strong  air-tight  vessel. 
In  another  strong  vessel  is  water  highly  charged 
with  carbonic  acid  under  pressure,  like  soda  water 
in  bottle.  The  two  vessels  communicate  by  a  pipe 
with  tap;  that  containing  the  flour  has  a  kneading 
apparatus  working  through  an  air-tight  stuffing- 
box.  On  opening  the  tap  the  aerated  water  is  forced 
into  the  kneading  vessel  in  due  quantity,  and  the 
flour  is  then  worked  into  paste  or  dough  while  still 
under  pressure.  On  removing  the  pressure  the  car- 
bonic acid  expands,  as  it  does  in  uncorking  a  soda 
water  or  champagne  bottle;  but  instead  of  escaping 
freely,  as  in  these  cases,  it  expands  the  dough.  By 
a  simple  arrangement  of  a  suitable  outlet,  the  dough 
may  be  squirted  out  by  the  pressure  of  the  gas 
within,  and  thus  run  into  the  form  of  a  long  cylinder 
of  required  thickness  for  cutting  up  into  loaves, 
which  must  be  baked  without  loss  of  time,  as  they 
would  otherwise  collapse." 

AERATED  DRINKS— Bottled  soda,  ginger  ale, 
etc.,  are  flavored  waters  charged  with  gas  by  means 
of  a  forced  aparatus  made  for  the  purpose. 

AERATED  WATERS— A  few  natural  mineral 
waters  are  slightly  aerated,  discharging  air  bubbles 
as  they  rise  in  the  spring.  Some  of  these  and  others, 
found  suitable,  are  artificially  charged. 

AERATED  WINES— Imitation  wines  and  cham- 


ALA 

pagnes  are  made  effervescent  as  if  fermented   by 
being  charged  with  gas  like  aerated  drinks. 

AGARIC — Mushroom,  (botanical  name),  also  the 
name  recently  adopted  for  a  bottled  liquor  or  bitters 
designed  to  fill  a  long  felt  want  in  prohibition  com- 
munities. There  are  hundreds  of  species  of  agaric 
or  mushroom,  and  one  kind,  amanita  muscaria,  pro- 
duces intoxication  and  is  eaten  or  rather  taken  in 
doses  by  people  in  some  parts  of  the  world  for  that 
purpose. 

AGNEAU  (Fr.) — Lamb;  selle  d'agneau  is  saddle 
of  lamb;  quariier  d'agneau  is  quarter  of  lamb. 

AGNEW  PUDDING  — English  name  for  an 
apple  cream  pie. 

AIGLE  DE  MER— French  name  of  the  hornfish. 

AIGRETTES  AU  PARMESAN— Cheese  puff 
fritters,  or  beignets  souffles,  with  grated  Parmesan 
cheese  mixed  in  the  batter. 

AILERONS  (Fr.)— Pinions;  ailerons  de  dinde  is 
turkey  wings;  ailes  de  poulets,  chicken  wings. 

AITCHBONE  or  EDGEBONE— The  cut  of  beef 
in  the  hindquarter  at  the  end  of  the  loin,  between 
that  and  the  rump.  The  meat  lies  in  detached  layers 
with  skin  and  gristle  between ;  inconvenient  to  cut 
into  steaks;  it  makes  a  second  rate  or  help's  roast 
and  is  good  to  salt  and  boil. 

ALASKA  TROUT  (salmo  purpnratus)— A  var- 
iety different  from  the  Atlantic  trout  in  its  markings, 
being  spotted  with  black  spots  of  the  size  of  buck- 
shot. 

A  LA  MODE  BEEF  SOUP— An  English  soup 
in  which  the  meat  is  stewed  to  pieces  and  served 
with  it,  brown  and  thick. 

A  LA  MODE  BEEF  SHOPS— "Upon  entering 
the  a  la  mode  beef  refectory,  an  astonishing  sight 
met  my  view.  The  patrons  were  all  seated,  but 
how?  Little  benches,  scarcely  more  than  a  yard 
long,  accommodated  each  of  them  two  customers. 
In  front  of  them  was  a  little  table  a  foot  and  a  half 
wide,  and  this  was  shared  by  the  people  on  the 
bench  opposite.  In  fact,  on  every  square  yard  and  a 
half,  or  thereabouts,  four  people  were  eating,  the 
food  being  brought  to  them  at  call  by  the  waiters. 
At  one  end  of  the  long  room,  which  must  have  held 
more  than  three  score  eaters,  was  a  man  who  ladled 
out  of  the  huge  cauldron  the  thick  soup  and  stewed 
beef  known  as  a  la  mode,  and  passed  it  on  to  the 
waiters,  who  flicked  it  to  their  customers.  It  was 
evidently  the  staple  dish  of  the  establishment  and 
was  very  savoury.  It  had  the  odour — a  strong  one, 
certainly — of  a  wholesome  but  highly  flavored  mess, 
and  I  am  bound  to  say  that  those  who  were  devour- 
ing it  seemed  satisfied." 

A  LA  MODE  BEEF— An  English  dish  not  to 
be  confounded  with  the  boeuj  a  la  mode  of  the  French. 
Take  eight  or  ten  pounds  of  beef  (the  rump  or  but- 
tock) or  the  same  weight  of  a  breast  of  veal.  Divide 
into  neat  pieces  of  three  or  four  ounces  in  weight. 


230 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


ALB 

Put  it  into  a  large  stewpan  with  four  ounces  of  good 
beef  dripping;  but  first  make  the  dripping  hot,  and 
flour  the  meat.  Add  a  couple  of  large  onions, 
minced  very  fine,  dredge  flour,  and  stir  with  a 
wooden  spoon  for  about  ten  minutes,  or  until  the 
contents  of  the  pan  be  thick;  then  pour  in  about  one 
gallon  of  water.  Do  this  gradually,  stirring  all  to- 
gether. Bring  it  to  a  boil;  then  skim,  and  add  one 
drachm  of  ground  black  pepper,  two  of  allspice,  and 
two  bay -leaves.  Set  the  pan  where  it  will  stew 
gently  for  about  three  hours.  When  the  meat  is 
tender,  serve. 

ALBANY  CAKES— The  same  batter  as  for 
"  popovers,"  baked  in  shallow  pans  to  make  a  thin 
muffin.  Hot  for  breakfast 

ALBEMARLE  PUDDING— Sugar,  eggs  and 
pounded  almonds  in  equal  weights  beaten  together 
to  a  froth  and  baked  in  a  tin. 

ALBUMEN — White  of  egg  is  albumen  in  its 
purest  form.  It  is  abundant  in  the  flesh  of  chickens, 
.  rabbits,  fish,  and  is  a  constituent  of  all  sorts  of  meat 
in  a  greater  or  less  degree.  WTien  chicken  mefct  or 
chopped  beef  is  set  over  the  fire  in  cold  water,  the 
water  becomes  milky  while  heating  through  the  al- 
bumen flowing  out  of  the  meat.  When  boiling  heat 
is  reached,  the  milky  appearance  is  changed  to  per- 
fect clearness  of  the  water,  and  the  albumen  has 
•risen  to  the  surface  in  the  form  of  scum.  If  the 
chicken  had  been  dropped  into  boiling  water,  the  al- 
bumen and  other  juices  would  not  have  flowed  from 
the  meat,  but  remained  within  it.  This  is  why  a  leg 
of  mutton  or  other  fresh  joint  should  be  set  on  to 
cook  in  boiling  water,  that  the  gravy  may  be  kept  in 
the  meat  until  it  is  cut;  the  albumen  of  the  outside 
cooks  instantly  and  keeps  in  the  juices.  But  to  make 
soup  or  stews  the  meat  should  be  put  on  in  cold 
water.  Albumen  is  used  in  immense  quantities  in 
manufactures,  especially  in  calico  printing.  The  de- 
mand for  albumen  has  led  almost  to  the  extermina- 
tion of  the  immense  flocks  of  wild  birds,  such  as 
snipe,  plover,  curlew,  widgeon  and  various  species 
of  ducks  which  breed  on  the  islands  of  the  northern 
sea  and  formerly  swarmed  at  certain  seasons  along 
our  coasts,  for  their  eggs  have  been  gathered  by  the 
vessel  load  year  after  year,  until  there  was  no  longer 
a  harvest  left  to  gather,  unless  new  breeding  places 
could  be  discovered.  A  new  source  of  supply  of 
albumen  has  now  sprung  up;  the  blood  from  the 
large  slaughter  houses  is  contracted  for  by  firms 
that  makes  a  business  of  extracting  the  albumen 
from  it  for  use  in  the  arts,  and  convert  the  remainder 
of  the  blood  into  fertilizers.  (See  article  on  eg-ffs.) 

ALBERT  CAKE— Is  sponge  cake  with  finely 
chopped  almonds  and  candied  orange  peel  and  a 
little  ground  spice  mixed  in. 

ALBERT  BISCUITS— Same  as  the  above,  baked 
in  small  moulds  like  small  sponge  cakes  or  savoys. 

ALBERT  PUDDING — Steamed  pound  pudding 
with  raisins  in  it.  The  mould  it  is  steamed  in  isbut- 


ALK 

tered  and  lined  with  strips  and  stars  of  citron  and 
figs.    Brandy  sauce. 

ALCOHOL — Much  employed  formerly  to  burn  in 
lamps  under  chafing  dishes,  but  made  too  dear  for 
general  use  by  the  revenue  tax.  It  is  in  use  still  by 
persons  who  take  pleasure  in  preparing  special 
dishes  over  the  flame  of  a  lamp  at  their  own  table. 
Alcohol  is  the  medium  employed  to  unite  with  the 
essential  oils  of  fruits  to  make  flavoring  extracts; 
extract  of  lemon,  orange,  vanilla,  etc.,  are  made  by 
mixing  oil  of  lemon  with  alcohol  or  steeping  the 
vanilla  bean  in  it.  Sticks  of  cinnamon,  broken  nut- 
megs, bruised  ginger,  cloves,  peach  kernels,  blades 
of  mace  and  various  other  flavoring  substances  may 
be  used  to  make  ordinary  extracts  for  cooks  and 
bakers  by  putting  them  to  steep  in  bottles  of  alcohol, 
which  may  be  drawn  off  into  other  bottles  when 
strong  enough  and  refilled.  It  is  alcohol  that  burns 
when  fire  is  set  to  brandy  or  rum  for  omelets  or  pud- 
ding sauces,  and  when  the  spirit  used  will  not  burn, 
a  little  alcohol  added  to  it  cures  the  difficulty.  Alco- 
hol is  useful  to  remove  grease  stains,  and  to  clean 
silver,  glass,  mirrors,  etc.  Rose  flavoring  and  other 
flower  flavors,  such  as  orange  flower,  may  be  made 
by  steeping  the  flower  leaves  solid  packed  in  a  jar  of 
sweet  oil  for  several  days,  pressing  out  the  oil  and 
mixing  it  with  alcohol,  then  distilling  the  alcohol 
which  carries  the  flower  flavor  with  it  into  another 
vessel. 

ALDERMAN'S  PUDDING  — Sort  of  custard 
pie  or  cheese-cake,  with  currants,  raisins,  suet, 
grated  rind,  bread  crumbs  and  eggs  in  three  pints  of 
milk. 

ALE  POSSET— A  hot  drink;  an  old  English  form 
of  egg-nogg,  made  by  pouring  a  pint  of  boiling  ale 
to  a  dozen  beaten  eggs  with  sugar,  nutmeg  and, 
sometimes,  a  glass  of  brandy.  Served  with  toast. 

ALEWIFE — An  American  fish  of  the  herring 
family,  smaller  than  a  shad. 

ALEXANDRA  PUDDING— A  boiled  bread  cus- 
tard with  fruit  in  it,  made  by  filling  a  mould  or  basin 
with  bread  crumbs,  having  currants  and  raisins 
mixed  in,  and  pouring  in  eggs  mixed  with  cream  or 
milk  in  custard  proportions,  sweetened  and  flavored; 
boiled  2  hours,  tied  down  with  a  floured  cloth. 
Cherry  jam  or  dilute  preserves  for  same. 

ALKANET  ROOT— Used  about  furniture  by 
the  repairers;  it  makes  a  red  stain  for  wood. 

ALKALIES — Soda,  saleratus,  potash,  borax,  lye, 
ammonia,  quinine,  morphine,  are  some  of  the  alka- 
lies; they  neutralize  acids  by  combining  with  them 
in  the  form  of  gas  and  salts,  hence  act  as  antidotes 
to  acid  poisons;  they  combine  with  oils  and  fats  in 
the  form  of  soap;  they  change  a  red  solution  of 
cochineal  to  blue;  added  to  the  water  in  which  green 
vegetables  are  boiled,  they  keep  them  green  where 
otherwise  the  vegetables  would  be  almost  black,  but 
if  in  excess  they  change  the  green  to  yellow  and 
dissolve  the  leaves  and  stems.  They  help  to  restore 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


231 


ALL 

tainted  meat  by  counteracting  that  part  of  the  taint 
which  is  only  sourness  caused  by  hot  packing  and 
keeping  in  bulk. 

ALLEMAXDE  (a  /')— German  style. 

ALLEMAND  SAUCE— A  yellow  or  cream-col- 
ored sauce  made  of  broth  seasoned  with  mushroom 
liquor,  parsley  and  onion,  thickened  with  white 
roux  and  yolks  of  eggs,  and  little  lemon  juice  to 
finish.  Good  for  fish,  chicken,  etc. 

ALLSPICE — Pimento,  a  common  spice  useful  in 
mincemeat  and  common  brown  cakes  and  puddings, 
when  ground,  and  in  the  whole  state  is  used  in  pick- 
ling, in  pig's  feet,  tripe,  sweet  pickles,  etc.  The 
cook  needs  a  small  quantity  ready  in  the  spice  box 
to  add  to  some  kinds  of  soup,  and  game  entrees,  the 
pastry  cook  uses  a  small  amount,  whole,  to  boil  in 
gelatine  jelly. 

ALLIGATOR  STEAK  — Slices  cut  from  the 
fleshy  tail  of  young  alligators  are  sometimes  cooked 
and  tasted,  if  not  eaten,  from  motives  of  curiosity, 
hv  Southern  tourists.  The  meat  is  somewhat  like 
boiled  beef,  is  not  objectionable  in  taste,  but  is 
sinewy  and  tough  and  seldom  provokes  a  second 
trial.  An  English  traveler  in  South  America  found 
that  young  alligators  were  regularly  sought  after  to 
be  used  for  food,  and  he  partook  of  some,  stewed, 
which  he  compared  to  the  favorite  flatfish  sole  in 
taste. 

ALLIGATOR  EGGS— Are  eatable  and  some- 
times displayed  for  sale  in  Florida  markets.  They 
are  esteemed  by  the  natives  of  the  \Vest  Indies,  and 
so  are  crocodile's  eggs  in  the  East. 

ALLIGATOR  A*PPLE— Name  of  the  custard 
apple  of  the  West  Indies.  Eaten  raw.  It  is  called 
the  coster  in  the  British  West  Indies,  and  being 
formerly  sold  by  peddlers  in  London  caused  them  to 
be  called  costermongers,  a  name  now  applied  to  all 
small  peddlers  of  marketings. 

ALLIGATOR  PEAR  — A  fruit  of  the  West 
Indies.  Is  common  also  in  Mexico  where  it  is  called 
the  arocado  (advocate).  It  is  eaten  raw  in  the  same 
•ways  as  muskmeions,  usually  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  is  sliced  up  in  salad  with  oil  and  other  dressings. 

ALLUMETTES  D'ANCHOIS  (Fr.)— Strips  of 
anchovies  wrapped  in  paste  and  fried. 

ALMOND— The  nut  is  the  seed  of  a  fruit  of  the 
peach  kind.  There  are  several  varieties;  the  bitter 
almond  is  one  of  them;  it  is  used  sparingly  to  add 
flavor  to  the  sweet  almonds  in  various  .preparations. 
A  substitute  for  bitter  almonds  is  peach  kernels. 
The  hard-shell  almonds  have  a  higher  flavor  than 
the  soft-shells,  and  are  to  be  preferred  for  cooking 
purposes.  ALMOND  PASTE — The  read- -prepared 
almond  paste  can  be  used  in  nearly  all  recipes  where 
the  directions  are  to  blanch  and  pound  the  almonds 
in  a  mortar,  a  proceeding  which  consumes  much 
time,  the  paste  is  about  one-half  almonds  and  one- 
half  sugar.  It  is  sold  at  confectionery  supply  stores 
jn  five  and  ten  pound  tins  at  about  twenty-five  cents 


ALM 

per  pound  on  the  average.  To  use  it,  shave  slices  as 
thin  as  possible  and  roll  and  crumble  the  shavings 
into  the  sugar  which  is  to  be  used  to  make  the  cakes, 
etc. ;  for  liquid  uses,  pound  the  shavings  in  a  mor- 
tar, with  sugar  and  milk,  till  thoroughly  divided. 
ALMOND  CAKES — No.  I  -  Half  pound  each  almonds 
(or  paste),  sugar  and  flour,  J£  pound  butter,  8  eggs; 
mixed  like  pound  cake.  No.  2 -Half  pound  almond 
paste,  4  eggs,  i  ounce  butter,  J^  pound  flour;  butter 
and  yolks  worked  with  the  almond  paste,  whites 
whipped,  and  flour  last.  JVo.j-A.ny  white  cake, 
silver  cake,  starch  cake,  etc.,  made  with  a  proportion 
of  almonds  or  paste,  becomes  almond  cake.  (See 
Albert  cake.)  ALMOND  ROUT  CAKES  —  Almond 
paste  with  yolks  of  eggs  enough  to  make  it  into  a 
dough  that  can  be  worked  into  fancy  patterns  and 
shapes,  glazed  with  gum  arabic  and  ornamented, 
dried,  then  carefully  baked.  ALMOND  DARIOLES — 
Pastry  cream  or  frangipane,  same  as  used  to  fill 
cream  puffs,  with  almonds,  almond  paste  or  extract 
in  it;  bake  in  paste-lined  patty  pans.  ALMOND 
NOUGAT  —  Made  same  as  common  peanut  candy, 
with  a  pound  of  blanched  and  parched  almonds  in 
half  pound  of  sugar  melted,  light  brown.  ALMOND 
ICING  (yellow) — Made  with  a  pound  of  sugar,  half 
pound  pounded  almonds  and  yolks  of  eggs  to  make 
paste,  or  with  almond  paste,  sugar  and  yolks;  spread 
over  cakes  before  the  white  icing.  ALMOND  ICING 
(white) — Ordinary  white  icing,  with  chopped  al- 
monds or  almond  paste  mixed  in  to  spread  on  cakes 
for  a  first  coat,  and  smooth  icing  afterwards. 
GATEAU  DE  AMANDES  A  LA  PARISIENNE— Almond 
cream  pie  made  by  mixing  almond  paste  in  pastry 
cream  or  frangipane.  (See  almond  darioles  and 
cream  pies.)  These,  however,  are  baked  on  jelly 
cake  pans  instead  of  pie  plates.  ALMOND  CUP  CUS- 
TARDS or  ALMOND  CREAMS — Boiled  custard,  with 
almond  paste  added,  served  in  custard  cups  with 
whipped  whites  on  top.  ALMOND  MACAROONS 
(hard) — No.  i  -Almond  paste  or  pounded  almonds 
mixed  with  pound  cake  or  other  cake  batter,  small 
lumps  baked  on  pans  or  paper.  No.  2-Two-thirds 
sugar,  one-third  almond  paste  or  crushed  or  minced 
almonds,  \vhite  of  egg  to  wet  it  into  dough;  small 
lumps  baked  on  pans  or  paper;  slack  oven.  ALMOND 
MACAROONS  (soft)  —  Light,  hollow;  made  with  a 
pound  of  sugar,  one  ounce  corn  starch,  half  pound 
crushed  almonds,  three  whites,  beaten  light,  baked 
slack  on  sheets  of  paper,  taken  off  paper  by  brush- 
ing bottom  with  water.  ALMOND  FINGERS — Cake 
icing  with  almond  paste  mixed  in,  run  on  pans  like 
lady -fingers;  slack  bake.  ALMOND  CREAM  PIE — 
Pastry  cream  made  of  milk,  sugar,  flour,  eggs  and 
crushed  almonds  or  paste,  baked  in  a  thin  crust  of 
puff  paste.  ALMOND  NOUGAT  CAKE— White  almond 
candy  in  a  shape,  made  of  one  pound  sugar,  two 
pounds  shred  almonds,  dried  and  warm,  and  a  table- 
spoon of  vinegar  to  dissolve  the  sugar  over  fire;  al- 
monds mixed  in  after  sugar  melts;  flattened  on  slab 
and  pressed  into  mould  like  a  lining;  can  be  filled 
with  cream.  ALMOND  CHEESE  CAKES — Almond 


232 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


ALM 

cream  pies  made  in  small  patty  pans;  same  mixture 
may  have  whipped  whites  of  eggs  stirred  in  or  on 
top.  ALMOND  CROQUANTES — Nearly  same  as  rout 
cakes;  made  by  moistening  almond  paste  with  yolks 
of  eggs,  or  pounding  almonds  and  sugar  and  yolks 
together;  rolling  out  in  sugar,  cutting  shapes,  bak- 
ing, then  dipping  in  boiling-  sugar,  and  drying. 
ALMOND  CUSTARD — Custard  either  baked  or  boiled, 
flavored  with  almonds  or  almond  extract.  ALMOND 
CREAM  ICE — English  for  almond  ice  cream.  ALMOND 
ICE  CREAM — Any  ice  cream  or  frozen  custard  having 
almond  paste  mixed  in.  BISQUE  OF  ALMONDS — Al- 
mond ice  cream  in  moulds.  ALMOND  CHOCOLATE — 
Bleached  almonds  dipped  in  hot  chocolate  icing  and 
dried  on  paper.  ALMOND  BLANC  MANGE— Blanc 
mange  or  Bavarian  cream  with  almonds  or  paste 
in  it.  ALMOND  FRITTERS — Same  as  cream  fritters 
or  fried  cream  made  with  corn  starch,  with  almond 
paste  in  it,  cut  like  cold  pudding  in  pieces,  breaded 
and  fried.  ALMOND  JUMBLES — Same  as  hard  maca- 
roons rolled  out  like  cookies.  ALMOND  MERINGUES— 
Same  as  egg-  kisses  or  meringues  a  la  cream,  with 
shred  almonds  and  granulated  sugar  dredged  on  be- 
fore baking — may  be  filled  two  together  with  almond 
cream  or  served  plain.  ALMOND  OMELET — An  or- 
dinary omelet  with  almond  paste  crumbled  in  sugar 
strewed  on  it  and  rolled  up  in  it,  more  on-  top,  and 
glazed  with  hot  iron.  SALTED  ALMONDS — Almonds 
blanched,  sprinkled  with  salt  and  a  little  cayenne, 
fried  in  butter  till  a  rich  gold  color,  drained  on  paper; 
served  cold  with  salt.  DEVILLED  ALMONDS — En- 
glish name  for  salted  almonds.  ALMOND  PUDDING — 
No.  /-Made  of  fine  bread  crumbs  and  almond  paste 
mixed  in,  like  bread  custard  pudding.  No.  a- A. 
steamed  batter  pudding  with  bread  crumbs,  almond 
paste  and  whipped  whites  in  the  batter,  in  moulds 
or  cups.  No. 3- A.  white  cake  mixture  with  raisins 
and  almond  paste  in  it;  steamed.  ALMOND  CRO- 
QUETTES—Almond  paste  and  sponge  cake  crumbs 
moistened  with  sweet  wine  and  white  of  egg,  made 
into  croquette  shapes,  breaded  and  fried.  ALMOND 
SOUP — No.  /-Any  cream  soup  may  have  a  puree  of 
almonds  added  for  flavor  and  the  name.  No.  a- A. 
milk  soup  made  without  meat,  but  with  a  paste  of 
pounded  almonds  and  also  shredded  almonds  in  it. 
No.j-The  original  potage  a  la  reine  is  said  to  have 
been  a  cream  of  chicken  and  almonds.  ALMOND 
HEDGEHOG — Made  with  almond  paste,  eggs,  flour, 
butter,  cream  and  flavoring  stirred  over  fire  until 
stiff  enough  to  form  in  the  shape  of  a  hedgehog  on 
dish  —  a  sort  of  rich  hasty  pudding,  in  effect,  or 
pastry  cream  made  stiffer —  stuck  full  of  split  al- 
monds to  represent  spines;  served  with  sauce  like 
pudding.  ALMOND  LAYER  CAKE — Almond  paste 
stirred  into  boiling  syrup,  yolk  of  eggs  to  thicken  it, 
spread  between  layers  of  thin  cakes,  or  rolled  like 
jelly  roll;  can  be  made  white  instead  of  yellow  by- 
using  whites  to  thicken.  ALMOND  PASTE  ADUL- 
TERATION— It  is  charged  against  the  manufacturers 
by  the  analysts  that  the  almonds  are  first  deprived 


ALL" 

of  their  oil,    which  is  a  separate  article  of  com- 
merce, and  are  then  flavored  with  prussic  acid. 

ALOSE  (Fr.)— Shad. 

ALOUETTE  (Fr.)— Lark.  Aloueties  a  la  minute, 
a  hasty  dish  of  larks,  French  restaurant  specialty 
prepared  as  follows:  Sautez  in  butter  twelve  larks 
(cleaned  and  plucked,  of  course).  Withdraw  as 
soon  as  the  butter  has  colored  them.  Brown  in  the 
same  butter  two  or  three  minced  shallots,  a  pinch 
of  parsley,  and  twenty  mushrooms  sliced.  As  soon 
as  the  mushrooms  are  cooked,  add  a  spoonful  of 
flour,  and  moisten  with  a  glassful  of  white  wine  and 
a  small  cupful  of  bouillon.  Allow  the  larks  to  stew 
for  some  minutes  in  this  sauce.  Brown  in  butter 
crofltons  of  bread,  as  many  as  there  are  birds. 
Serve  each  lark  on  a  crouton  and  pour  over  the  dish 
the  mushroom  sauce.  Other  small  birds  may  be 
prepared  in  the  same  way.  (See  Afauriettes.) 

ALOYAU  (Fr.)— Sirloin  of  beef. 

ALPHABET  PASTES  — For  soup;  the  same 
paste  as  macaroni  and  spaghetti,  but  stamped  into 
very  small  letters  or  ornamental  shapes  which  swell 
in  boiling.  Can  be  bought  in  packages,  one  pound 
or  less.  Not  expensive. 

ALUM — In  a  powdered  state  has  been  extensively 
employed  as  an  adulterant  in  bread;  it  has  much  the 
same  effect  as  a  slight  tendency  to  sourness  in  the 
dough  has  in  whitening  the  bread;  it  has  some  effect 
in  preventing  certain  constituents  in  flour  from 
changing,  into  a  gummy  and  transparent  appear- 
ance, which  makes  the  bread  look  dark.  Bakers 
find  that  second-rate  and  soft, flour  is  corrected  by 
the  use  of  alum,  so  that  it  produces  a  more  saleable 
loaf  than  better  flour  would  without  such  treatment. 
Alum  is,  however,  unwholesome,  while  not  posi- 
tively poisonous;  it  is  a  mineral  salt,  which,  regu- 
larly taken  into  the  stomach,  causes  great  injury  to 
health;  the  bread  adulterated  with  it  is  damaged 
also  in  its  keeping  qualities,  and  becomes  unduly 
dry  and  tasteless  in  a  day  after  baking.  Stringent 
laws  have  been  passed  in  various  countries  to  sup- 
press this  practice;  in  Paris  as  many  as  forty  bakers 
at  one  time  have  been  fined,  their  shops  closed  and 
their  business  suspended  by  law,  as  a  punishment 
for  using  alum  in  bread;  prosecutions,  convictions, 
fines  and  imprisonment  have  occurred  in  most  large 
cities  of  the  United  States  for  the  same  cause.  The 
bakers'  journals  deny  now  that  this  practice  pre- 
vails to  any  considerable  extent,  and  a  state  of  opin- 
ion has  been  worked  up  in  the  trade  which  causes  it 
to  be  considered  disgraceful  and  dishonest  to  resort 
to  the  practice.  The  adulteration  of  bread  with 
alum  seems  to  be  on  the  decrease.  In  hotel  bakeries 
there  is  no  need  of  resorting  to  such  expedients. 
Alum  is  one  of  the  injurious  ingredients  in  inferior 
baking  powders.  It  is  useful  in  pickling,  to  make 
the  pickles  firm  and  brittle;  it  is  used  in  making 
cochineal  coloring,  in  very  small  amounts,  and  dye- 
ing, etc.,  to  set  the  colors.  Plain  alum,  and  its  de- 
rivative, the  bisulphate  of  alumina,  have  a  remark- 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


233 


AMA 

able  effect  in  clarifying-  muddy  water,  and  the  former 
is  extensively  employed  for  that  purpose.  A  small 
quantity — a  tablespoonful  powdered — mixed  with  a 
barrel  of  Mississippi  river  water  renders  it  quite 
clear  after  standing  an  hour  or  two,  and  the  impur- 
ities are  coagulated  together  by  its  action  so  that 
they  can  be  removed  by  straining.  The  immense 
filtering  works  which  now  operate  to  purify  the 
entire  water  supply  of  some  cities  are  based  upon 
this  singular  property  of  the  mineral  salt  alum. 
Powdered  alum  is  useful  in  case  of  a  cut  to  apply 
to  stop  the  flow  of  blood. 
AMANDES  (Fr.)— Almonds. 
AMANDES  PRALINEES  (Fr.)— Burnt  al- 
monds; parched  and  sugared  almonds. 

AMBROSIA— Literally  food  for  the  gods;  a  bowl 
of  sliced  oranges  and  pineapples,  grated  cocoanut, 
sugar  and  wine. 

AMBER  CLEAR  SOUP  — A  name  for  clear 
soup,  bouillon  or  consomme. 

AMBER  JELLY— A  name  for  gelatine  jelly 
when  of  an  amber  or  golden  color.  Amber  is  a  sub- 
stance like  jellow  glass  or  rosin,  found  on  the  sea 
coasts,  used  for  mouth-pieces  in  pipes,  and  in  jew- 
elry. 

AMBER  PUDDING  — A  boiled  or  steamed 
lemon  bread  pudding. 

AMBERGRIS  —  Literal  meaning  grey  amber, 
used  by  the  liquorists  to  flavor  cordials,  bitters,  etc. ; 
highly  valued  in  perfumery.  It  is  a  substance  of 
the  consistency  of  wax,  found  in  sperm  whales; 
also  found  floating  in  masses,  weighing  one  or  two 
hundred  pounds  in  the  Indian  Ocean.  Ambergris 
flavor  is  said  to  be  a  favorite  with  the  Prince  of 
Wales,  and  confectioners  and  caterers  use  it  the 
more  on  that  account.  AMBERGRIS  ESSENCE— Made 
of  an  ounce  of  ambergris  steeped  in  a  quart  of  proof 
spirit  in  a  warm  place  for  a  month,  the  mixture  is 
then  filtered.  Two  or  three  drops  will  flavor  a  quart. 
AMBERGRIS  CREAM — A  whipped  cream  stiffened 
with  gelatine  (Bavarian  cream),  flavored  with  am- 
bergris essence  and  colored  yellow,  set  in  a  mould 
on  ice.  AMBERGRIS  JELLY — Gelatine  or  calf's-foot- 
jelly,  flavored  with  ambergris. 

AMONTILLADO— Name  of  a  popular  brand  of 
sherry,  served  with  fish. 

AMMONIA  — Hartshorn;  sal  -volatile;  -volatile 
alkali ;  smelling  salts.  Carbonate  of  ammonia  is 
used  by  bakers  to  raise  cakes;  it  is  much  stronger 
and  more  effective  for  the  purpose  than  baking  pow- 
ders. The  quantity  used  is  about  the  same  weight 
for  weight  as  baking  powder;  the  cost,  in  an  aver- 
age way,  is  about  the  same.  The  ammonia  changes 
to  vapor  in  the  oven  and  expands  the  dough  it  is 
mixed  with.  The  method  of  using  is  to  crush  the 
lumps  to  a  white  powder  and  dissolve  it  in  the  liquid 
that  makes  the  dough.  Ammonia  is  but  little  used 
in  hotels,  the  odor  from  the  baking  being  objection- 
able. A  proportion  of  ammonia  mixed  with  baking 


ANC 

powder  makes  it  stronger  as  long  as  it  is  kept 
tightly  closed  in  glass  jars.  Liquid  ammonia  is  one 
of  the  most  serviceable  alkalies  for  cleaning  silver 
and  removing  grease  stains.  A  small  lump  of  am- 
monia dropped  into  the  water  with  peas  or  aspara 
us  or  other  green  vegetables,  will  keep  them  green 
while  boiling. 

AMOURETTES  DE  VEAU  (Fr.)— Tendons  of 
veal;  the  gristly  part  of  the  breast;  the  edge  of  the 
brisket  stewed  tender. 
ANANAS  (Fr.)— Pineapple. 
ANCHOIS  (Fr.)— Anchovy. 

ANCHOVY— A  little  sea  fish  caught  in  the  Medi- 
terranean. It  has  a  high  flavor,  is  used  as  an  ap- 
petizer and  in  sauces.  It  is  preserved  in  salt  brine; 
can  be  bought  either  in  bottles  or  small  kegs  of  one 
or  two  quarts'  size.  Anchovies  as  a  cold  hors 
cTantvre  are  served  uncooked.  Wipe,  split,  serve  in 
oil  like  sardines  with  garnish  of  eggs,  parsley,  lem- 
ons, etc.,  and,  uncooked,  they  are  cut  in  pieces  in 
some  sorts  of  salads.  ANCHOVY  ESSENCE  is  a  pink- 
colored,  oily,  thick  sort  of  sauce;  can  be  bought  in 
bottles.  One  London  firm  is  said  to  have  almost  a 
monopoly  of  the  manufacture,  making  nine-tenths 
of  all  the  anchovy  essence  used  in  the  world.  The 
essence  consists  of  pounded  anchovies  simmered 
with  water,  vinegar,  spices,  mushroom  catsup  and 
the  brine  the  fish  were  preserved  in,  all  passed 
through  a  seive,  bottled  and  corked  down  while  hot. 
Adulterated  or  spurious  samples  have  been  found  to 
contain  starch  for  consistency  and  Venetian  red  for 
color.  Anchovy  essence  is  used  to  flavor  fish  sauce, 
(.tee  admiral  sauce  or  sauce  a  i'amiral),  and  as  a 
finish  to  turtle  soup,  and  especially  for  imitations  or 
soups  made  of  fresh  water  turtles.  The  largest  sea 
turtles  possess  the  anchovy  flavor  so  strong  as  to 
make  them  scarcely  eatable.  ANCHOVY  PASTE — An- 
other name  for  anchovy  butter.  ANCHOVY  BUTTER — 
Anchovies  washed,  boned,  pounded  with  soft  butter 
through  a  seive;  may  be  mixed  with  parsley  and 
lemon  juice;  is  used  to  spread  upon  hot,  broiled  beef- 
steak and  upon  toast,  also  in  pats  to  garnish  dishes 
of  broiled  or  boiled  fish.  It  can  be  made  as  well  by 
stirring  anchovy  essence  into  softened  butter.  AN- 
CHOVY POWDER — Anchovies  passed  through  a  seive, 
made  into  a  paste  with  flour,  baked  dry  in  thin  cakes, 
powdered  and  used  for  flavoring.  FRIED  ANCHO- 
VIES— Split,  boned,  dipped  in  fritter  batter  and  fried 
same  as  anchois  a  la  d'Horly.  ANCHOVY  SAUCE — 
Butter  sauce,  hot,  highly  flavored  either  with  an 
chovy  essence  or  chopped  anchovies  and  lemon  juice, 
served  with  fish  and  steaks.  ANCHOVY  OMELET— 
Fillets  (boneless  sides)  of  anchovies  laid  on  an  om- 
elet, not  rolled  but  flat  in  the  pan,  another  flat  om- 
elet turned  upon  it  and  the  cooking  of  the  inside 
finished  in  the  oven.  ANCHOVY  TOAST— Slices  of 
toast,  either  buttered  and  with  the  boneless  sides  of 
anchovies  with  mustard  and  cayenne  laid  upon 
them,  or  toast  spread  with  anchovy  butter.  AN- 
CHOVY PATTIES  —Small  pieces  of  fish  forcemeat 


234 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


ANC 

mixed  with  Anchovy  butter  baked  inside  of  two  flats  j 
of  puff  paste.  ANCHOVY  TAR  TINES— Round  and 
thin  slices  of  bread  or  biscuits,  buttered,  anchovies 
in  oil  (like  sardines)  cut  in  thin  strips  and  arranged 
crosswise  upon  them,  the  spaces  filled  with  minced 
eggs,  pickles,  etc.;  lunch  dish.  ANCHOVY  SAND- 
WICH— Thin  sliced  bread  spread  with  anchovy  butter 
or  puree  of  anchovies  with  butter.  ANCHOVY 
EGGS— Hard  boiled  eggs  cut  in  halves,  the  yolks 
taken  out,  rubbed  through  a  seive,  seasoned  with 
anchovy  essence  and  butter,  put  back  in  the  whites 
served,  garnished,  either  hot  or  cold.  ANCHOVY 
BREAKFAST  CAKE — Rice  (boiled)  stirred  up  with  an- 
chovy essence,  butter,  flour  and  eggs,  and  baked. 
ALLUMETTES  D'ANCHOIS — (See  page  2Jf.) 

ANCHOVY  PEAR— A  fruit  of  the  West  Indies. 

ANCIENNE  (a  f)— Ancient  style;  in  the  old- 
fashioned  way. 

ANDALOUSE  (a  /")— In  Andalusian  or  Spanish 
style.  ANDALUSIAN  SOUP — A  brown  beef  soup  with 
puree  of  tomatoes  added,  and  slight  flavor  of  garlic. 

ANDOUILLES  (Fr.)— Chitterlings. 

ANDOUILLETTES  (Fr.)— Small  sausages. 

ANDOUILLETTES  AUX  HUITRES  (Fr.)— 
Oyster  sausages.  (See  oysters.) 

ANDOUILLETTES  DE  TROVES  GRILLEES 
— Veal  sausages  broiled;  a  specialty  of  the  great 
London  grill  rooms. 

ANGELS  ON  HORSEBACK— English  foolish 
name  for  oysters  wrapped  in  bacon  and  broiled. 

ANGEL  FOOD— A  fanciful  name  found  in 
many  cook  books,  applied  to  some  light  dessert,  us- 
ually of  whipped  cream;  also  to  a  white  sponge 
cake. 

ANGEL  CAKE— Fanciful  name  of  the  whitest 
and  lightest  of  all  cakes;  a  white  sponge  cake  of 
recent  invention,  made  of  one  pound  sugar,  one 
pound  whites,  half  pound  flour,  one  ounce  cream 
tartar,  and  some  flavoring. 

ANGEL  FISH— A  sea  fish  of  the  shark  family, 
eatable,  but  not  desirable;  named  so  by  sailors  on 
account  of  its  broad,  wing-like  fins. 

ANGELICA — A  plant,  the  stalks  of  which  are 
preserved  like  citron  or  watermelon  rind.  It  is  val- 
ued for  its  green  color  for  decorative  purposes  in 
confectionery;  often  mentioned  in  Old  ^Vorld  con- 
fectionery books,  but  seldom  met  with  and  scarcely 
obtainable  in  this  country ;  old-fashioned  or  obsolete. 

ANGELICA  WINE— A  California  sweet  wine 
made  from  angelica  grapes;  useful  for  frozen 
punches,  pudding,  sauces,  wine  jelly,  etc.,  and  not 
expensive. 

ANGLAISE  (a  /')— In  English  style. 

ANGUILLES  (Fr.)— Eels. 

ANILINE — The  brightest  coloring  for  confec- 
tionery. The  red  shades  from  pink  to  purple  are 
perfectly  harmless,  and  if  they  were  not  the  quan- 


tity required  to  color  is  so  extremely  small  that  no 
injury  could  ensue.  The  greens  and  yellows  in  ani- 
line colors  are  all  more  or  less  poisonous  and  cannot 
be  admitted  to  the  pastry  or  confectionery  room. 
Aniline  is  one  of  the  many  products  of  petroleum. 
Some  years  ago,  when  petroleum  and  the  substances 
obtained  from  it  were  new  and  but  little  understood, 
a  French  chemist  undertook  to  ascertain  the  effects 
of  aniline  upon  the  human  system  by  taking  doses 
of  it  himself,  increasing  the  quantity  daily,  and 
came  to  these  conclusions,  viz. :  Aniline,  pure,  has 
no  effect,  either  good  or  bad.  The  chemicals  used 
to  make  aniline  red  are  perfectly  harmless.  The 
chemicals  used  to  make  aniline  green,  blue  and  yel- 
low, are  arsenic  and  other  injurious  substances. 
Consequently  the  reds  may  be  safely  used,  but  not 
any  other  colors.  The  quantity  needed  is  scarcely 
more  than  five  cents'  worth  for  six  months;  the  dip 
of  a  cork  will  color  a  gallon;  buy  dry  aniline  an* 
dissolve  in  warm  water. 

ANISEED — A  small  seed  used  for  flavoring, 
nearly  resembling  caraway  and  celery  seed;  used  oy 
bakers  and  liquorists.  ANISETTE — A  liquor,  like 
absinthe  and  kummel,  made  from  aniseed  in  spirits. 
Used  sometimes  for  flavoring  punches  and  sherbets. 
ANISEED  OR  ANISETTE  RUSKS — Sponge  cake  or 
other  kinds  flavored  with  a  spoonful  of  aniseed, 
baked,  sliced,  then  dried  in  the  oven.  ANISETTE 
SLICES — Slices  of  cake  freshly  cut  from  a  cake  of 
Scotch  shortbread,  which  has  been  flavored  by  hav- 
ing aniseed  mixed  in.  Aniseed  is  sometimes  mixed 
with  rye-bread  and  various  sorts  of  cakes  by  Ger- 
man bakers.  Its  price  is  unsettled,  but  is  usually 
about  So  cents  per  pound  at  retail. 

ANNA  POTATOES  OR  POMMES  A 
I/ ANN  A — Said  to  have  originated  at  Delmonico's. 
Potatoes  pared  and  sliced  raw;  replaced  with  butter 
between  each  slice  and  baked  until  done.  Rich  and 
expensive  on  account  of  the  large  quantity  of  very 
best  butter  required. 

ANNATTO— Butter  color.  It  is  used  to  color 
butterine  and  other  spurious  butters,  and  is  used  in 
the  creameries  to  give  the  uniform  color  to  the  bfst 
butter  as  well.  The  natural  yellow  of  pure  grass 
butter  is  different  from  annatto  color  in  that  the  nat- 
ural is  at  the  deepest  only  the  bright  yellow  of  the 
sunflower,  annatto  makes  an  orange  color.  Mixed 
lots  of  butter  from  country  stores,  no  two  samples 
being  alike,  are  sometimes  worked  over  with  an- 
natto to  make  marketable  as  creamery  butter.  An- 
natto is  a  gummy  substance,  something  like  wax,  of 
a  dull  red  color  in  its  dry  state.  Obtained  from  the 
fruit  of  a  tree  that  grows  in  the  tropics.  Is  often 
called  Spanish  annatto.  Costs  about  fifty  cents  a 
pound.  It  cannot  be  dissolved  perfectly  in  water; 
dissolves  partially  in  milk,  in  cream,  and  most 
thoroughly  in  warm  oil  or  melted  butter. 

ANTELOPE— The  antelope  of  the  western 
plains,  being  the  fleetest  of  foot  and  most  numerous, 
survives  the  buffalo,  mountain  sheep  and  black-tail 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


235 


ANT 

deer  and  still  constitutes  a  very  considerable  portion 
of  the  game  supply  of  the  cities.  Antelope  meat  is 
not  as  highly  esteemed  as  venison,  bnt  may  easily 
be  mistaken  for  it  in  the  market.  Only  the  hind 
quarters  are  shipped  in  and  they  are  usually 
wrapped  in  the  skin  of  the  fore-quarter,  in  addition 
to  their  being  unskinned.  The  hair  is  very  loose, 
coming  out  by  the  handfuls  and  proves  very  trouble- 
some to  remove  from  the  meat  if  once  brought  in 
contact.  Antelope  is  the  tenderest  or  softest  of  all 
meat;  young  animals  are  excellent  eating;  the  flesh 
of  the  older  ones  is  as  dark  as  calf's  liver  and  is  apt 
to  have  a  musky  taste,  which,  if  not  really  objec- 
tionable to  those  who  like  game,  still  serves  to  dis- 
tinguish it  from  deer  meat  and  prevents  its  substitu- 
tion. Cranberry  or  currant  jelly  is  the  best  sauce. 
ANTELOPE  STEAKS — Are  slices  cut  from  the  leg; 
should  be  cut  thick  and  slightly  flattened.  ANTE- 
LOPE CUTLETS — The  loin  cut  into  chops.  SADDLE 
OF  ANTELOPE — The  two  loins  undivided.  HAUNCH 
OF  ANTELOPE— The  two  loins  and  legs  undivided, 
but  shortened  by  removing  the  inferior  part  of  the 
legs.  The  fore -quarters  of  antelope  are  not  unfit  to 
eat,  the  rib  chops  and  shoulders  being  good,  but  are 
thought  too  light  to  pay  for  shipping.  To  COOK 
ANTELOPE — Besides  the  hunters'  ways  of  broiling, 
frying  and  stewing,  and  the  specially  American 
method  of  baking  and  serving  with  cranberry  sauce, 
antelope  may  be  advantageously  cooked  and  sauced 
in  any  of  the  ways  prescribed  for  venison,  roebuck, 
and  the  like;  young  antelope  is  specially  good 
larded  with  fat  pork  and  cooked  like  filleted  rabbits. 

ANTIDOTES — Any  substances  which  counter- 
act the  effects  of  poisons.  When  poison  has  been 
swallowed,  first  and  instantly  dilute  the  poison  with 
large  draughts  of  warm  water,  either  clear,  orj  if 
the  particular  poison  is  known,  containing  the  pro- 
per antidote.  Exite  vomiting.  Protect  as  much  as 
possible  the  lining  of  the  stomach  from  contact  with 
the  poison  by  large  and  frequent  doses  of  sweet  oil, 
mucilage  of  gum  arable,  flaxsecd  tea,  milk,  melted 
lard  or  butter.  A  general  antidote,  where  the  name 
of  the  poison  is  unknown,  is  a  mixture  of  carbonate 
of  magnesia,  powdered  charcoal,  and  hydrated 
se^uioxide  of  iron,  equal  parts  in  water.  Mineral 
acid  poisons  are  counteracted  by  powdered  chalk, 
whiting,  magnesia,  or  lime  scraped  from  a  wall  and 
stirred  in  water.  Also  by  soap  suds,  sweet  milk, 
soda  or  saleratus,  all  in  very  small  doses  at  first.  In 
case  of  oil  of  vitriol  or  sulphuric  acid,  water  must 
not  be  used  too  freely  at  first,  as  heat  and  gas  are 
dangerously  produced  in  the  stomach  by  their  meet- 
ing  (see  acid  and  alkali^).  Lye,  caustic  potash,  am- 
monia and  other  alkaline  poisons  are  counteracted 
by  vinegar,  lemon  juice,  or  acidulated  water,  to  be 
followed  immediately  with  sweet  oil,  mucilage  and 
an  emetic.  Arsenic,  rat  poisons,  poisonous  color- 
ings, pans  green,  etc.,  give  five  or  six  whites  of 
eggs  beaten  in  a  cup  of  water,  or  flour  and  water, 
flaxseed  tea  or  magnesia,  and  administer  an  emetic. 
After  the  vomiting,  give  hydrated  sesquioxide  of 


API 

iron  in  tablespoon  doses  every  fifteen  minutes.  This 
is  the  best  known  antidote  for  arsenic.  Corrosive 
sublimate  or  bed-bug  poison,  treatment  the  same  as 
for  arsenic.  Phosphorus,  cochroach  paste,  matches, 
give  large  quantities  of  warm  water  containing  cal- 
cined magnesia,  chalk  or  whiting.  Verdigris, 
give  sugar,  milk  and  whites  of  eggs  in  large  quan- 
tities, then  strong  tea,  but  no  acids  of  any  kind. 
Laudanum,  opium,  morphine,  give  an  emetic,  strong 
coffee,  brandy,  whisky,  and  keep  the  patient  awake 
by  any  means.  Poisonous  fungi,  toadstools,  false 
mushrooms,  give  emetics  and  castor  oil  or  olive  oil, 
the'n  vinegar,  lemon  juice  or  cider,  and  administer 
ether  and  antispasmodic  remedies.  TANNIN  is  an 
antidote,  and  an  infusion  of  gall  nuts  or  oak  bark  is 
effective. 

ANTISEPTICS— Among  substances  called  anti- 
septics or  disinfectants,  are  carbolic  acid,  salicylic 
acid,  boracic  acid,  chloride  of  zinc,  and  iodoform. 
Chloride  of  lime,  in  water  used  for  scrubbing  and 
washing,  is  the  ordinary  disinfectant  for  floors,  fur- 
niture and  linen. 

ANTHRACITE— The  name  of  the  kind  of  coal 
commonly  called  hard  coal.  It  is  nearly  pure  car- 
bon, makes  no  flame,  but  when  in  combustion  at 
white  heat,  it  will  convert  a  spray  of  water  into 
flame,  and  cooking  operations  are  sometimes  ac- 
celerated by  that  means. 

ANTS — Small  red  ants  overrun  the  safes  and  cup- 
boards where  eatables  are  kept;  they  are  particularly 
troublesome  by  getting  into  sugar  and  syrup;  they 
will  attack  a  sponge  cake,  go  all  through  and  make 
an  ant-hill  of  it,  and  will  eat  bread,  but  will  not 
touch  any  cake  that  has  butter  in  it,  nor  any  kind  of 
pastry  made  with  butter  or  lard.  The  small  black 
ants  are  the  most  troublesome  about  cooked  meat 
and  in  clothing,  and  from  their  power  to  sting.  A 
temporary  protection  may  be  had  by  setting  the  feet 
of  the  safes  and  cupboards  where  victuals  are  kept 
in  bowls  of  water.  When  the  ants  can  be  traced  to 
their  burrows,  they  may  be  exterminated  most  easily 
by  throwing  boiling  water  around  frequently. 
When  that  is  not  practicable,  it  is  recommended  to 
take  corrosive  sublimate — say  half  a  pound — and 
dissolve  it  in  a  quart  of  alcohoj,  and  apply  the  mix- 
ture to  their  haunts  with  a  brush.  Black  ants  may 
be  driven  away  or  destroyed  by  dusting  with  pep- 
per. Powdered  alum  or  borax  sprinkled  on  the 
shelves  and  runways  are  also  recommended. 

APICIUS — A  Roman  spendthrift,  gourmand  or 
glutton,  whose  extravagance  made  him  memorable. 
There  were  three  of  the  same  name  at  different  pe- 
riods, distinguished  by  the  same  propensities.  The 
second  one  seems  to  have-  spent  most  of  his  time 
sailing  about  to  various  ports,  trying  to  find  some- 
thing better  to  eat,  and  had  a  special  hankering  after 
large  lobsters.  The  most  famous  one  had  a  middle 
name,  when  he  wrote  it  in  full  it  was  Marcus  Gabius 
Apicius.  He  set  up  a  school  of  cookery,  and  spent 
millions  of  dollars  in  pampering  his  appetite.  After 


236 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


APP 

a  while,  when  he  had  got  so  that  nothing  tasted 
good  to  him  any  more,  and  he  had  only  half  a  mill- 
ion dollars  left  to  hire  professional  cooks  with,  he 
committed  suicide  to  save  further  expenses.  API 
CIAN  FEASTS — or  banquets  worthy  of  Apicius,  are 
expressions  sometimes  used  by  reporters. 

APPERT'S  PROCESS— The  now  common  can- 
ning process  of  preserving  fruit  and  vegetables  and 
all  sorts  of  eatables  by  hermetically  sealing  and 
cooking,  was  formerly  called  Appert's  process  of 
preserving,  after  M.  Appert,  a  French  chemist,  who 
discovered  it.  It  is  claimed  now  that  his  was  but  a 
re-discovery,  and  that  the  same  method  of  preserv- 
ing was  known  to  the  inhabitants  of  Pompeii.  It 
is  said  that  jars  of  figs,  sealed  with  wax  and  still  in 
a  good  state  of  preservation  after  the  laps  of  many 
centuries,  were  found  in  the  excavations  of  that 
buried  city. 

APPETIZERS— Appetissanls,  cold  horscTauvres, 
kickshaws,  side  dishes;  these  are  the  small  things 
eaten  as  a  preliminary  to  a  good  dinner,  supposed  to 
create  an  appetite  for  something-  more  substantial, 
though,  as  one  of  George  Eliot's  characters  says : 
"  It  is  poor  eating  when  the  flavor  o*  the  meat  lies  i' 
the  cruets."  The  favorite  in  the  United  States, 
probably,  is  raw  oysters,  four  or  six  on  a  plate,  with 
half  a  lemon  and  crackers.  Next  to  oysters,  small 
clams.  Others  are  as  follows:  SARDIXES  AU  PAR- 
MESAN— Strips  of  toast  spread  with  butter  and  grated 
Parmesan  cheese  and  a  sardine  on  top.  ROTIES  A 
LA  MINIME — Split  sardines  on  oblong  pieces  of  fried 
bread,  served  with  a  sauce  of  oil,  vinegar  and  mus- 
tard. CANAPES  A  LA  PRINCE  DE  GALLES — Very 
small  rolls  filled  with  chopped  ham,  anchovies, 
gherkins  and  truffles,  the  top  covered  with  asoic 
mayonaise.  TARTINES  DE  CAVIARE— Russian  cav- 
iare spread  on  small  slices  of  buttered  toast.  BIS- 
CUITS A  LA  DIABLE  —  Thin  beaten  biscuits  spread 
with  chopped  anchovies,  hard-boiled  egg,  capers 
and  parsley.  CROUTES  A  L'INDIENNE — Chopped  an- 
chovies or  sardines,  eggs,  capers,  red  pepper  and 
shallots  on  small  buttered  toast.  CROUTES  AUX 
ANCHOIS— Small  rounds  of  fried  bread  spread  with 
anchovy  butter  and  a  filleted  anchovy  coiled  on  top. 
CROUTES  AUX  SARDINES — Same  as  the  preceding. 
CANAPES  AUX  ANCHOIS  —  Rounds  of  fried  bread 
with  chopped  anchovies  and  capers  and  yolk  and 
white  of  egg  arranged  in  quarters.  SARDINES  A  LA 
MARTINACHE — Sardines  dipped  in  tomato  catsup  laid 
upon  toast  spread  with  butter  and  parsley.  OLIVES 
FARCIES  AUX  SARDINES — Stoned  olives  stuffed  with 
chopped  sardine  placed  on  top  of  small  rounds  of 
fried  bread  spread  with  mayonaise  and  decorated 
with  capers.  ARLETS  A  LA  BOLOGNA — Strips  of 
brown  bread  and  butter  sprinkled  with  finely  chop- 
ped spring  onions,  a  thin  slice  of  sausage  or  potted 
meat  and  spot  of  tabasco  sauce.  HORS  D'CEuvRES 
VARIEES — may  be:  Farced  olives  with  cucumbers 
and  pulled  bread,  smoked  salmon  in  thin  strips  on 
brown  bread  and  butter,  with  garden  cress  cut  short 


APP 

and  sprinkled;  caviare  with  potted  tongue  and  thin 
biscuit;  anchovies  or  sardines  on  bread  and  butter 
with  sliced  radishes  and  leaves  of  water  cress; 
Roquefort  cheese  with  green  butter  and  radishes  on 
graham  crackers;  anchovies  and  potted  ham  on  wa- 
fers; sardines  scraped,  boned,  laid  in  strip->  cross- 
wise on  buttered  roll,  with  capers  in  the  interstices, 
and  a  sprinkling  of  chili  vinegar;  sardines  in  halves, 
minced  yolk  and  white  and  parsley  placed  ornament- 
ally on  bread  and  butter,  sprinkled  with  tarragon 
vinegar;  caviare  spread  on  Vienna  bread  garnished 
with  water  cress;  shrimps  or  prawns  on  rounds  of 
bread  buttered,  with  the  smallest  lettuce  leaves  be- 
tween, sprinkled  with  tarragon  vinegar;  grated  ham 
and  tongue  on  rounds  of  bread  buttered,  sprinkled 
with  minced  spring  onions;  caviare  spread  OH  dia- . 
monds  of  rye  or  other  bread,  garnished  will',  lemon 
and  parsley;  thin  slices  of  large  lemons  with  sardines 
or  anchovies  coiled,  bread  and  butter  and  parsley. 
(For  other  suggestions  see  anchovies,  sardine*,  cav- 
iare, etc.)  At  club  dinners  and  other  entertainments 
many  of  these  relishes  are  served  with  the  cheese  at 
the  close  of  the  meal.  A  recent  innovation  is  to 
serve  slices  of  mushmelon  or  cantelope  with  salt  and 
pepper,  among  the  hors  tfteuvres. 

APPLES— Uses  of:  APPLEADE— A  sort  of  beer 
made  of  J£  bushel  apples,  baked  and  mashed,  a 
pounds  rice  boiled  soft  in  2  gallons  water,  all  put  in 
a  tub  having  a  faucet,  7  gallons  boiling  water  and  4 
pounds  sugar  added,  and  some  yeast,  when  cool. 
After  24  hours,  strain  off  into  a  tight  keg  for  use  or 
sale.  BOTTLED  APPLEADE — Same  as  above  except 
using  about  an  ounce  of  Irish  moss  instead  of  rice, 
and  lemon  rind  added;  bottled,  and  cork  tied  down. 
APPLE  CHAMPAGNE — Flavor  said  to  be  like  cham- 
pagne; made  of  2  poundd  apples,  baked  and  mashed 
with  i  gallon  boiling  water,  J^  pound  sugar  added 
and  yeast  when  cool;  allow  to  ferment  24  hours, 
strained  through  flannel,  bottled  and  corks  tied  or 
wired.  APPLE  AND  APRICOT  COMPOTES  OK  ME- 
RINGUES—  A  dish  buttered  and  spread  with  fine 
bread  crumbs,  nearly  filted  with  mixed  apple  and 
apricot  marmalade,  meringue  or  frosting  on  top,  and 
baked.  COMPOTE  OF  APPLES  —  Apples  in  halves 
dropped  into  boiling  sugar  syrup,  cooked  carefully 
without  breaking  until  transparent;  syrup  navwed, 
perhaps  colored,  is  boiled  down  thick  and  poured 
over  them  cold.  APPLE  BUTTER — Apples  pared  and 
cored,  boiled  down  in  an  equal  measure  of  swee; 
cider;  is  light  brown,  thick  as  marmalade;  will  keep 
for  months,  can  be  bought  in  various  sized  packages, 
is  often  imitated  with  stewed  dried  apples;  APPLE 
CHARLOTTE— A  pan  or  mould  lined  with  thin  slices 
of  bread  dipped  in  butter,  nearly  filled  with  stewed 
apple  or  marmalade,  top  covered  with  bread,  baked 
brown,  glazed  with  egg  and  sugar.  CHARLOTTE 
DE  POMMES  A  LA  PARisiENNE — An  apple  charlott2 
in  which  the  slices  are  cut  to  form  a  pattern  on  the 
bottom  and  sides  of  a  thickly  buttered  mould,  the 
edges  being  dipped  in  egg;  after  baking  turned  out 
whole  and  glazed  with  egg  and  sugar,  set  in  the 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


237 


APP 

oven  to  crisp,  or  salamandered.  GERMAN  SOUFFLE — 
Thick-stewed  apple  in  a  dish,  thick  yolk  of  egg 
boiled  custard  poured  upon  it,  white  of  egg  whipped 
stiff,  sweetened,  flavored,  piled  on  top  and  lightly 
colored  in  the  oven.  GERMAN  APPLE  CAKE — A 
very  thin  sheet  of  light  roll  dough  spread  upon  a 
baking  pan,  cored  and  quartered  apples  pressed  into 
the  dough  raw,  sugar  sifted  over,  allowed  to  rise; 
then  baked  until  apples  are  done.  MARYLAND 
APPLE  CAKE — A  shallow  mould  lined  with  sweet 
tart  paste,  nearly  filled  with  thick-stewed  apples  or 
marmalade,  well  flavored  with  ground  cinnamon, 
paste  on  top,  dry  baked,  turned  out  when  cold  and 
sugared  over;  is  also  served  warm  as  a  sweet  entree. 
FRIAR'S  OMELET— A  pan  or  mould  spread  with  soft 
butter  and  all  the  fine  bread  crumbs  that  will  stick, 
apple  marmalade  mixed  with  eggs  and  nutmeg  to 
nearly  fill,  covered  with  bread,  baked  until  set, 
turned  out  and  sugared  over.  ENGLISH  APPLE 
PUDDING — A  deep  bowl  lined  with  short  paste,  filled 
with  sliced  apples,  covered  with  paste,  tied  down  in 
cloth,  boiled  an  hour,  served  with  sauce  or  sugar 
and  butter.  BOILED  APPLE  DUMPLINGS  —  Short 
paste  made  with  y2  pound  of  shortening  to  I  pound 
flour,  rolled  thin,  cored  apple  inclosed  in  it,  dropped 
into  boiling  water  till  done.  STEAMED  APPLE 
DUMPLINGS — Paste  with  J£  pound  shortening  to  I 
pound  flour,  apple  core  filled  with  sugar,  etc.,  in- 
closed and  steamed.  BAKED  APPLE  DUMPLINGS— 
Medium  puff  paste  or  rich  short  paste,  apple  in- 
closed, leaves  of  paste  or  other  ornaments  on  top, 
washed  over  with  egg  and  water,  and  baked' 
APPLE  DUMPLINGS  IN  SAUCE — Made  same  as 
steamed,  but  baked  in  a  pan  of  sweetened  milk  and 
water.  APPLE  SHORT-CAKE — Extra  rich,  ripe  apples 
chopped  raw,  spread  between  short-cakes,  (like 
straw  berry  short-cake)  eaten  with  sweetened  cream. 
APPLE  COBBLER — Southern  States'  name  for  apple 
pie  baked  in  an  ordinary  baking  pan  and  cut  out  in 
squares  to  serve.  BROWN  BETTY — A  buttered  pud- 
ding dish  filled  with  alternate  layers  of  bread 
crumbs,  thinly  sliced  apples,  sugar,  little  nutmeg, 
finished  with  crumbs  on  top  and  bits  of  butter,  baked 
brown;  served  as  pudding.  APPLE  OMELET  — 
Stewed  apples  beaten  smooth,  5  tablespoons  of  it 
with  3  of  sugar  and  i  of  flour  stirred  into  3  well 
beaten  eggs  with  i  spoonful  of  brandy;  can  be  either 
baked  or  cooked  in  frying  pans.  FROSTED  APPLES — 
Apples  pared,  not  cored,  stewed  in  syrup  until, 
transparent,  without  breaking,  then  drained,  dipped 
in  beaten  white  of  egg  and  in  powdered  sugar,  and 
dried  in  the  oven  with  very  little  heat.  APPLE 
FRITTERS — Pared  and  cored  apples  cut  in  rings,  dip- 
ped in  fritter  batter,  fried  in  hot  fat,  served  with 
sweet  sauce;  also  served  with  roast  duck,  goose  and 
pork.  APPLE  AND  CREAM  PUDDING — A  mould  but 
tered  and  lined  with  rich  short  paste,  quarters  of 
apples  built  up  all  over  the  surface  of  the  paste,  the 
middle  filled  with  pastry  cream  or  frangipane  made 
thick,  paste  cover,  tied  in  a  cloth  and  boiled  an  hour 
or  more,  turned  out  and  diluted  jam  poured  over. 


APP 

RICE  APPLE  DUMPLINGS— Cored  and  sugared  apples 
inclosed  in  a  covering  of  boiled  rice  pounded  to  a 
paste,  floured  outside,  tied  up  separately  in  cloths 
and  boiled  until  apples  are  done;  served  with  sauce. 
APPLE  AND  RICE  PUDDING— Any  rice  pudding  with 
quartered  apples  cooked  in  it.  APPLE  TAPIOCA — 
A  pudding  without  eggs,  milk  or  butter,  made  by 
soaking  J^  pound  tapioca  for  2  hours  in  i  quart  of 
water,  stirring  in  a  little  sugar,  spread  in  a  dish  or 
pan,  the  top  covered  with  quartered  apples,  and 
baked.  APPLE  TAPIOCA  PUDDING— The  pudding- 
made  firm  with  tapioea  and  eggs,  and  sliced  apples 
mixed  in,  and  baked.  APPLE  SNOW — Apples  stewed 
thick  and  pressed  through  a  colander,  beaten  up 
when  cold,  then  mixed  with  whipped  white  of  egg 
and  powdered  sugar;  served  cold  in  saucers  of 
cream.  APPLE  MARMALADE — Apples  stewed  thick 
and  pressed  through  a  colander;  sugar,  orange  peel, 
lemon  peel,  cloves  or  any  other  suitable  flavor  added, 
dried  down  till  thick  enough  to  keep  without  spoil- 
ing. APPLE  SAUCE— Stewed  slices  of  apples  with  a 
little  sugar  and  water.  APPLE  PUREE  —  Same  as 
apple  snow,  served  in  custard  cups  with  whipped 
cream  on  top.  APPLE  TRIFLE — Same  as  apple  snow, 
with  thick,  cold  boiled  custard  ready;  the  puree 
piled  in  a  glass  dish  and  the  custard  around  it. 
APPLES  AND  RICE — Same  as  compote  of  apples,  rice 
cooked  with  milk  and  little  sugar,  smoothed  over  in 
the  serving  dish,  and  apple  on  top,  custard  or  col- 
ored wine  syrup  poured  over  or  around  it.  APPLE 
BREAD— One-third  apples,  two-thirds  flour,  apples 
stewed  as  dry  as  can  be,  mashed  through  a  strainer 
and  used  to  mix  the  dough  instead  of  water;  yeast, 
etc.,  same  as  usual;  baked  in  loaves  DRIED  APPLE 
BREAD  — (/)  Dried  apple  boiled  until  done  [but  not 
mashed],  drained,  stirred  up  in  corn  bread,  baked  in 
flat  cakes.  (2)  The  same  stirred  up  in  short-cakes  of 
wheat  flour  and  baked  an  inch  thick  in  a  frying  pan 
over  a  slow  fire.  SNITZ — Pennsylvania-Dutch  name 
for  dried  apples.  LODWAERRICK — Ditto  for  apple 
butter.  DRIED  APPLES — Are  of  two  or  more  kinds, 
the  home-made  or  sundried  generally  the  cheaper, 
but  by  many  preferred,  and  the  light-colored,  nearly 
white  evaporated,  which  are  in  some  places  treated 
with  sulphur  fumes  and  dried  in  a  current  or  cold 
blast  of  air  upon  selves  moving  upwards  in  a  dark- 
ened shaft,  whence  they  emerge  almost  ready  for 
packing;  these  apples,  with  careful  cooking,  can  be 
restored  very  nearly  to  the  appearance  of  the  fresh 
fruit.  APPLE  PIE  —  (/)  A  pie  plate  covered  with 
rich,  short  paste,  heaped  full  of  thin-sliced  apples 
with  sugar  and  nutmeg  or  cinnamon  dusted  in,  edges 
wetted,  cover  of  paste  put  on,  washed  over  with  egg 
and  water.  (2)  A  lower  crust  only,  of  short  paste, 
stewed  apple  filling,  strips  across  top.  (j)  A  thin 
bottom  crust  with  thicker  edges  of  puff  short  paste, 
raw  apples  very  thin  sliced  in,  sugar,  butter,  wine 
mace  added;  no  top  crust;  bake  slowly.  ENGLISH 
APPLE  PIE— A  deep  earthenware  dish  lined  with 
short  paste,  filled  with  sliced  apples,  sugared  and 
flavored ;  baked  with  a  crust  on  top.  FRENCH  APPLE 


238 


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APP 

PIE  or  TOUKTE — Small  pie  phitc  covered  with  thin 
sheet  of  puff  paste  with  thicker  edges,  filled  with 
apple  marmalade;  baked  without  top  crust.  APPLE 
TURNOVERS — Rounds  of  rich  paste  cut  with  scall- 
oped edges  or  plain ;  a  spoonful  of  apple  marmalade 
in  center,  doubled  over  to  half-moon  shape,  egged 
over,  dipped  in  granulated  sugar  and  baked  till 
glazed.  GATEAUX  FOURES  DE  POMMES  A  I.A  PAR- 
ISIENNE —  The  French  name  of  apple  turnovers. 
CHARTREUSE  DE  POMMES — A  chartreuse  of  apples 
made  by  parboiling  slices  of  apples,  cut  in  shapes, 
in  strong  jelly  of  different  colors,  building  up  the 
slices  on  the  inner  surface  of  a  mould  wetted  \vith 
jelly  and  set  in  ice,  and  filling  the  center  with  jelly- 
stiffened  marmalade;  to  be  turned  out  and  served 
with  cream  and  cake.  BAVAROIS  AUX  POMMES— 
Whipped  cream  and  apple  marmalade  mixed  with 
gelatine  enough  to  set  the  mixture  firm  enough  to 
turn  out  of  the  mould.  BEIGNETS  DE  POMMES  A  LA 
D'ORLEANS — Apple  fritters  with  a  sweet  or  wine 
sauce.  BEIGNETS  DE  POMMES  A  I.A  BAVARIE — Ap- 
ples soaked  in  brandy,  rolled  in  flour  and  fried. 
CRISPED  APPLES-  American  name  for  the  preceding. 
BUTTERED  APPLES — Halved  apples  baked  in  a  cov- 
ered pan  with  butter  and  sugar,  and  served  on  thin 
rounds  of  fried  bread.  POMMES  AU  Riz  A  LA 
CONDE —  Halved  apples  stewed  in  syrup,  served 
either  upon  or  around  a  shape  of  boiled  rice,  and 
diluted  apricot  jam  poured  over.  BAKED  APPLES — 
The  fruit  cored,  not  pared,  core  holes  filled  with 
sugar,  butter  and  little  cinnamon;  baked  with  very 
little  water,  and  basted.  PAIN  DE  POMMES  A  LA 
RUSSE — A  border  mould  of  apple  jam  or  marmalade 
stiffened  with  gelatine,  turned  out  cold,  center  filled 
with  whipped  cream  and  melted  currant  jelly  round. 
APPLES  A  LA  PORTUGAISE  —  Like  the  miro'oti ; 
stewed  in  syrup,  not  divided,  syrup  colored  red,  re- 
duced and  poured  over;  apples,  garnished  with  spots 
of  red  jelly.  APPLES  A  LA  CHERBOURG — Cut  in 
blocks  or  shape  of  bottle  corks  with  tube  cutter, 
compoted  in  lemon  syrup;  eaten  with  cream. 
APPLES  A  LA  MARIE  STUART — Baked  apple  dump- 
lings in  puff  paste,  the  apple  core-holes  filled  with 
thick  cream  before  baking.  APPLE  CUSTARD  PIES — 
Several  variations  are  in  use;  in  England  they  are 
called  puddings;  Marlborough  pudding  is  one; 
apple  marmalade  is  mixed  either  with  eggs  and  wine, 
or  with  eggs,  butter,  wine  and  grated  lemon  rind,  or 
with  milk  or  cream  and  eggs,  etc.,  and  in  all  those 
ways,  as  well  as  with  curd;  bread  crumbs,  currants 
and  eggs,  goad  pies,  tarts  and  cheese  cakes  are  made 
and  still  further  varied  by  frosting  the  top  of  some 
and  making  various  sizes  and  shapes.  APPLE  FOOL — 
Old  English  name  for  stewed  fruit,  mixed  and  eaten 
with  milk,  cream  or  custard.  APPLE  TARTLETS  OR 
PUFFS — Flat  rounds  of  puff  paste,  size  of  biscuits, 
the  middle  cut  half  way  through  with  smaller  cutter; 
baked  dry;  they  rise  high;  the  center  is  taken  out 
and  deep  cavity  filled  with  apple  marmalade  or  jelly. 
APPLEJELLY — The  jelly-making  quality  of  apples, 
varies  greatly;  crab  apples  yield  the  strongest  and 


APP 

clearest;  some  seeding  varieties,  good  for  nothing 
else,  make  the  best  jelly;  i  pound  of  sugar  to  i  pound 
of  fruit  and  %  pint  water,  boiled,  strained  through 
flannel,  tested  by  cooling,  and,  if  not  firm,  boiled  :\ 
longer  lime.  (See  jellies.)  VOL-AU-VENT  OK  AP- 
PLES— Puff  paste  laid  on  a  pie  plate  as  if  for  a  pie; 
a  mark  like  a  lid  cut  around  near  the  edge  with  the 
point  of  a  knife;  when  baked  and  risen  the  lid  lifted 
off  and  inside  filled  with  compote  apples.  GATEAU 
DE  POMMES — A  mould  of  stiffened  apple  marmalade ; 
served  with  custard.  GATEAU  DE  POMMES  AUX 
APRICOTS  —  A  mould  of  gelatine-stiffened  apple 
marmalade  covered  with  apricot  marmalade.  MIKO- 
TON  DE  POMMES— Cored  apples,  not  divided,  care- 
fully cooked  in  syrup,  drained,  garnished  in  a  dish 
with  dried  or  glace  fruits;  red,  currant  jelly  diluted 
with  wine  poured  over.  CROQUETTES  DE  POMMES — 
Apple  paste  cut  in  pieces,  breaded  and  fried. 
APPLE  PASTE — Marmalade  dried  down  gradually  in 
a  cool  oven  till  it  can  be  spread  out  in  a  sheet  like  :i 
piece  of  dough,  cut  in  any  shape,  rolled  in  powdered 
sugar;  variously  colored  and  flavored,  this  apple 
paste  is  used  by  bakers  to  ornament  cakes,  and  ;s 
sold  as  candy  in  various  fancy  forms.  APPLE 
SANDWICH — A  layer  of  apple  sauce  on  a  slice  of 
bread,  covered  with  a  layer  of  whipped  cream. 
FRIED  APPLES — A  breakfast  dish,  also  served  with 
all  forms  of  pork;  commonly  sliced  without  paring 
or  coring;  the  peel  helping  to  preserve  their  shape 
the  slices  are  simply  fried  a  few  at  a  time  in  frying 
(saute)  pans  with  a  spoonful  or  two  of  pork  fat  or 
butter,  and  when  brown  on  one  side  are  turned  over 
one  by  one;  large  quantities  can  be  done  in  the  oven 
if  not  too  many  in  the  pans  at  once.  BROILED  AP- 
PLES— Same  way  as  broiled  potatoes;  slices  done  in 
the  double-wire  broiler,  buttered  while  cooking. 
APPLES  WITH  SAUSAGES — Fried  slices,  same  as  with 
spareribs  and  pork  tenderloin;  this  is  the  German  as 
well  as  American  habit;  the  Flemings  eat  baked  ap- 
ples with  black  puddings.  STEAMED  OR  BOILED 
APPLE  ROLL  —  A  thick  layer  of  chopped  apples 
spread  upon  a  thin  sheet  of  short  paste  or  biscuit 
dough,  rolled  up,  tied  in  a  cloth  at  both  ends  and  in 
the  middle,  boiled  or  steamed  an  hour  or  longer; 
served  with  rich  sauce.  BAKED  APPLE  ROLL — The 
preceding  egged  over  and  baked  with  a  greased 
paper  cover  over;  crust  needs  to  be  richer.  PAINTED 
LADIES  —  Whole  (pared)  apples  cooked  in  syrup 
under  cover  in  the  oven;  when  done,  each  side  col- 
ored with  red  jelly,  syrup  condensed  with  wine 
poured  over  cold.  GERMAN  APPLE  MOULD — One 
pint  Rhine  wine,  I  pound  sugar,  i  pound  apples 
stewed  and  mashed  through  a  colander,  gelatine  to 
set  it,  colored  pink,  moulded;  eaten  cold.  APPLE 
BATTER  PUDDING — Pared  and  cored  apples  baked  in 
a  pan  under  paper  cover;  when  done,  an  egg  batter 
made  with  little  flour  poured  over  the  apples,  and 
baking  continued.  Another  way  is  to  bake  a  thin 
Yorkshire  pudding  with  sliced  apples  in  it.  APPLE 
CIDER  — The  expressed  juice  of  apples.  APPLE 
BRANDY — Distilled  from  either  cider  or  crushed  ap- 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


239 


pies.  APPLE  JACK. —  New  Jersey  name  for  apple 
brandy;  it  is  plentiful  in  most  of  the  eastern  states, 
is  generally  cheaper  than  any  other  spirit  and  serves 
a  good  purpose  in  cooking,  for  sauces  and  for  mak- 
ing flavoring  extracts.  CIDKE  ROYAL  OR  EAU  DE 
VIE  DE  CIDRE — French  name  for  apple  jack.  "  It  is 
the  favorite  spirit  drunk  in  Xormandy;  it  is  also 
called  Calvados,  and  generally  known  as  such  by 
the  Parisians,  being  chiefly  made  by  the  apple- 
growers  in  the  Calvados  department.  It  is  in  every 
way  preferable  to  the  so-called  cognac,  which  is 
made  out  of  anything  but  wine;  sold  in  France." 
WHISKY  OR  BRANDY  APPLES — Pared  and  cored  ap- 
ples, to  every  pound  %  pound  sugar,  I  lemon,  %  gill 
whisky  or  brandy,  spices;  apples  simmered  in  them 
without  breaking,  same  as  compote  apples;  placed 
in  jars,  syrup  boiled  down  and  poured  over  them; 
will  keep  for  months.  FROZEN  APPLE  CREAM — 
Marmalade  mixed  with  as  much  cream,  whipped, 
filled  into  fancy  cases  and  set  in  the  freezing  box  to 
solidify;  served  as  ice  cream.  APPLE  ICE  CREAM — 
Apple  marmalade  and  cream  or  custard  mixed  and 
frozen.  APPLE  ICE — Stewed  apples  flavored  with 
orange  and  cloves,  with  twice  as  much  water,  well 
sweetened,  frozen  and  beaten  up  with  whipped  white 
of  egg  in  the  freezer  to  make  it  creamy.  APPLE 
AND  RICE  FROZEN  PUDDING — Custard  with  boiled 
rice  and  thick-stewed  apples  frozen;  also,  apple  ice 
and  rice  custard  are  frozen  separately,  but  served  to- 
gether. APPLES — Stewed  with  sour  krout  and  also 
with  cabbage;  also  boiled  whole,  with  kidneys,  are 
considered  an  improvement  to  the  respective  dishes 
in  certain  localities.  APPLE  AND  WATER  CRESS 
SALAD — Shredded  apples  and  water  cress  cut  to  a 
corresponding  size,  tossed  up  with  salt,  vinegar, 
pepper  and  oil.  APPLES  IN  MINCEMEAT — A  surplus 
may  be  used  up  in  this  way,  as  mincemeat  will  keep 
and  will  sell.  APPLES  CANNED — They  are  put  up 
in  gallon  cans  for  use  in  regions  where  there  are  no 
fresh  apples;  are  good  for  nearly  all  the  purposes  of 
the  fresh  fruit,  being  generally  in  unbroken  quarters, 
and  being  free  from  waste;  are  not  dear.  APPLES 
TO  KEEP — A  better  way  than  in  the  cellar  is  to  make 
aheap  of  them  on  the  ground  in  the  orchard;  if  a 
large  quantity,  the  heap  should  be  a  long  one,  as  ap- 
ples heat  if  in  great  bulk;  cover  with  dry  straw  or 
hay,  then  cover  with  6  inches  of  earth;  increase  the 
depth  of  covering  before  severe  frost  comes,  but  the 
apples  are  better  kept  cold  than  too  warm.  If  a  very 
large  lot,  have  a  wooden  pipe  ventilator  inserted. 
Should  apples  accidentally  freeze  in  the  pit,  let  them 
alone  and  keep  air  from  them,  and  they  will  come 
out  afterwards  unhurt,  but  if  handled  whi'e  frozen 
will  be  fit  for  nothing  but  cider.  Car-loads  of  apples 
frozen  on  the  railroads  during  sudden  storms  are 
often  saved  by  being  at  once  worked  up  into  cider. 

APRICOTS — Name  is  from  two  words  signify- 
ing early  ripe.  It  is  mentioned  by  the  gardener  in 
Shakespeare's  "Winter's  Tale,"  yet  only  grows  in 
England  when  protected  by  a  south  wall.  It  reaches 
the  greatest  perfection  in  California,  perhaps  also 


APP 

in  Australia,  where,  a  traveler  says,  some  were 
brought  to  him  three  inches  in  diameter.  It  is 
plentiful  in  France;  is  a  fruit  of  a  delightful  flavor 
and  most  useful.  RIPE  APRICOTS— Are  among  the 
choicest  fruits  for  the  table.  They  are  generally 
wrapped  in  paper  separately  and  boxed  suitably  for 
hotel  buyers.  BISQUE  OF  APRICOTS— Ice  cream 
with  chopped  ripe  apricots  stirred  in,  the  cream  or 
custard  previously  flavored  with  the  broken  kernels 
and  parings  simmered  in  syrup.  APRICOT  ICE 
CREAM — Canned  or  stewed  apricots  mixed  with 
cream  or  custard  and  frozen.  APRICOT  SHERBET— 
Pulp  of  cooked  apricots,  about  a  pint  to  2  quarts 
water  and  2  pounds  sugar,  frozen,  and  whipped 
whites  of  5  or  6  eggs  beaten  in.  APRICOTS  WITH 
RICE — In  all  the  same  ways  as  apples.  APRICOT 
SHORTCAKE — With  fresh  ripe  fruit,  same  as  apple, 
peach  and  strawberry  shortcake.  APRICOT  ROLL — 
With  fresh  fruit  or  with  jam,  same  as  steamed  or 
baked  apple  rolls.  PETITS  GATEAUX  DE  ABRICOT — 
Made  with  apricot  marmalade,  same  as  apple  turn- 
overs. APRICOT  TART  A  LA  METTERNICH— An 
open  pie  of  puff  paste,  quarters  of  apricots  and 
pitted  cherries  laid  in  and  sugared  over,  baked,  and 
cream -flavored  with  the  kernels  poured  on  top  when 
served.  APRICOT  TARTLETS — Small  vol-au-vents 
of  puff  paste,  as  for  apple  tartlets;  the  inside  lid 
large  enough  for  half  a  preserved  apricot,  the  lid 
not  to  be  replaced,  but  decoration  of  red  jelly  placed 
around  the  fruit.  GREEN  APRICOT  PIE — The 
young  and  unripe  fruit  is  considered  to  make  choice 
tarts,  puddings  and  pies;  it  is  stewed  in  syrup  until 
quite  tender,  then  baked  in  a  covered  pie,  or  baked 
in  puff  paste  without  a  top  crust  for  a  tart.  BAVA- 
ROIS  AUX  ABRICOTS — Apricot  marmalade  mixed 
with  an  equal  measure  of  cream  whipped  to  froth 
and  stiffened  with  gelatine,  nearly  an  ounce  to  each 
quart;  set  in  a  mould,  turned  out,  served  with  mara- 
schino cream.  ABRICOT  PUREE  —  Stewed  and 
strained  apricots  well  sweetened,  beaten  light, 
mixed  with  whipped  cream,  served  cold  in  custard 
cups  with  cake.  GATEAU  DE  MILLE  FEUILLES — 
Thousand  leaf  cake;  a  pile  of  thin,  round  pieces  of 
puff  paste,  spread  with  two  or  three  kinds  of  mar- 
malade and  apricot  marmalade  on  top,  decorated 
with  candied  cherries.  GATEAU  GENOISE  AUX 
ABRICOTS^  A  pound  jelly  cake  spread  and  covered 
with  apricot  marmalade  and  served  with  whipped 
cream.  TOURTE  D'ABRICOTS  A  L'ALLEMANDE — 
An  open  pie  of  puff  paste,  with  halves  of  apricots 
and  marmalade  for  filling.  APRICOT  FLAN— An 
open  pie  like  the  above,  with  custard  poured  on  top 
of  the  fruit  instead  of  marmalade,  and  baked  in  it. 
POUDING  AfX  ABRICOTS — Like  apple  cream,  pie- 
stewed  apricots  mixed  with  rich  custard  and  bread 
crumbs,  baked  in  a  crust.  APRICOT  FRITTERS — 
Halves  of  apricots,  either  canned  or  fresh,  drained, 
dipped  in  fritter  batter,  tried;  served  with  wine 
sauce.  BEIGNETS  D'ABRICOTS  A  L'EAU  DE  VIE-^- 
Rounds  of  bread  dippped  in  brandy,  joined  to  half 
an  apricot  dipped  in  batter  und  fried.  APRICOT 


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APP 

OMELET — Made  same  as  apple  omelet.  COMPOTE 
OF  APRICOTS  A  UA  CONDE — Halves  of  apricots  on  a 
bed  of  cooked  rice,  the  latter  sweetened  and  fla- 
vored, red  syrup  or  jelly  for  a  finish.  APRICOT 
WINK — Made  by  boiling  apricots  with  sugar  and 
water,  fermenting  same  as  appleade,  but  becomes  a 
fine  wine  if  carried  through  all  the  processes  and 
kept  a  year.  (See  -wines).  CROUTES  AUX  ABRICOTS 
— Halves  of  preserved  or  compote  apricots  on  fried 
slices  of  bread  cut  in  shape;  the  syrup  poured  over. 
PAIN  D'ABRICOTS — Marmalade  stiffened  with  gela- 
tine, set  in  a  border  mould,  turned  out  and  the 
center  rilled  with  whipped  cream.  DRIED  APRICOTS 
— The  best  are  bleached  with  sulphur  fumes  and 
then  dried  in  the  sun. 

AQUA  PURA— Druggists'  latin  for  plain  water. 
AQUA  VIT^E — Druggists'  latin  for  brandy. 
AQUA  AMMONIA — Liquid  ammonia;  used  for 
taking  out  paint  and  grease  spots. 

AQUA  FORTIS— Nitric  acid;  used  for  testing 
metal  spoons,  watches,  plate.  It  eats  into  the  base 
metals,  but  does  not  injure  gold  or  silver. 

AQUARIUM— A  tank  to  keep  live  fish  in.  In 
Canton  and  other  Chinese  cities,  also  in  Moscow, 
Vienna  and  other  places,  the  restaurateurs  have 
these  tanks  so  large  and  well-stocked  as  to  excite 
remarks  from  every  traveler.  The  intention  is  that 
the  customer  shall  select  his  fish,  have  it  caught  in 
a  dip  net  and  cooked  for  him  while  he  waits;  much 
the  same  as  our  restaurants  keep  live  quails  in  a 
show  case. 

ARABIAN  DISHBS— See  Oriental  Cookery. 

ARDENNES  SALAD— Shredded  red  cabbage 
steeped  in  salt  and  water,  then  drained  and  placed 
in  the  bowl,  on  top  endive,  sliced  boiled  potatoes, 
celery,  mustard,  vinegar,  pepper,  and  over  all  is 
poured  the  hot  fat  and  gravy  from  a  pan  of  fried 
ham. 

ARLEQUIN  ICES— French  spelling  of  Harle- 
quin; ices  of  several  colors  mixed,  like  a  harlequin's 
dress,  such  as  a  brick  of  ice  cream  made  of  3  or  4 
layers. 

ARLES  SAUSAGES— A  kind  formerly  in  fash- 
ionable repute;  not  very  different  from  the  now 
well-known  Frankfurt;  named  for  the  town  where 
made. 

ARMENIAN  CABBAGE  A  LA  MODE— A 
cabbage  boiled  about  half  done,  taken  up  and 
minced  meat  of  any  kind,  well  seasoned  with  pep- 
per and  onions,  introduced  between  the  leaves, 
which  are  then  tied  around  with  twine;  the  stuffed 
cabbage  is  then  fried  in  butter,  gravy  made  in  the 
pan  and  cabbage  allowed  to  stew  in  ic. 

AROMATS,  AROMATICS— Words  often  used 
in  cookery  recipes  to  avoid  repeated  enumeration. 
They  signify  the  roots,  herbs  and  apices  commonly 
used  for  seasoning  or  flavoring  savory  dishes,  such 


ART 

as  shallots  or  onions,  garlic,  sage,  bav  leaves, 
thyme,  celery,  mace,  cloves,  etc. 

AROMATIC  SALT— Also  called  spiced  fall.  It 
is  fine  salt  having  the  powdered  herbs  and  spices 
mixed  with  it,  which  are  used  by  cooks,  and  saves 
the  trouble  of  getting  each  one  of  the  ingredients 
together  as  often  as  they  arc  needed.  Spiced  salt 
contains  pepper,  mace,  bay  leaf,  rosemary,  sage, 
thyme,  celery  seed,  and  perhaps  other  ingredients, 
fpr  cooks  of  different  nationalities  have  various  pre- 
ferences in  that  respect. 

ARROWROOT— A  pudding  material  like  corn 
starch,  but  has  a  more  delicate  flavor  of  its  own. 
Being  a  product  of  the  West  India  islands,  the 
powers  owning  them  have  done  much  to  stimulate 
the  trade  in  arrowroot  from  commercial  motives, 
and  numerous  recipes  may  be  found  in  which  ar- 
rowroot is  an  ingredient,  but  corn  starch  takes  its 
place  most  completely,  whether  for  puddings,  cus- 
tards, blanc  mange,  cakes,  crackers,  etc.,  and  being 
cheaper  crowds  it  out  of  the  market.  In  making 
puddings,  about  one-third  more  of  arrowroot  is  re- 
quired to  a  certain  measure  of  liquid  than  of  starch, 
and  the  price  of  arrowroot  is  much  higher.  It  re- 
mains the  best  material,  however,  for  thickening 
milk  for  ice  cream,  and  is  much  used  as  a  diet  for 
invalids.  The  name  is  in  reference  to  arrowroot 
being  obtained  from  the  root  of  the  manioc,  which 
yields  at  the  same  time  a  poisonous  sap  into  which 
the  native  Indians  dipped  the  points  of  their  arrows. 
This  all  washes  out  in  water,  while  the  pure  arrow- 
root sinks  as  sediment  and  is  afterwards  dried  and 
powdered. 

ARTESIAN  WELLS— Holes  are  bored  or  drilled 
to  any  depth'  by  either  of  two  methods:  A  drill 
with  a  wedge-shaped  steel  point  is  raised  and  let 
fall  by  steam  power,  its  own  weight  driving  it  down 
while  it  is  turned  part  way  round  at  each  drop  to 
make  the  bore  round.  At  intervals  of  a  few  hours 
an  iron  tube  is  let  down  to  draw  up  the  mud  and 
water.  By  the  other  method  the  drill  is  a  short  tube 
with  rough  diamonds  set  in  the  lower  edge,  which 
cut  down  into  the  rock  while  the  drill  is  revolved 
bv  the  machinery.  This  drill  brings  up  a  core  from 
the  strata  penetrated,  and  is  most  used  for  prospect- 
ing. The  largest  bore  so  far  has  been  12  inches 
in  diameter  and  deepest  about  3,000  feet.  In  low 
lands  water  is  often  obtained  that  gushes  up  with 
great  force  several  feet  above  the  surface;  these  are 
called  flowing  wells.  In  most  large  or  medium- 
sized  cities  parties  can  be  found  who  take  contracts 
for  sinking  wells  where  wanted.  Artesian  wells 
get  their  name  from  Artesium,  the  ancient  name  of 
Artois  in  France,  where  these  methods  began  to  be 
used  about  150  years  ago. 

ARTICHOKE— There  are  two  different  vege- 
tables called  artichokes,  and  neither  of  them  being 
in  general  use  with  us  there  is  a  good  deal  of  mys- 
tification about  the  directions  given  for  using  them. 
One,  the  artichoke  straight,  is  a  sort  of  thistle,  the 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


241 


ART 

green  immature  flower,  with  a  little  eatable  material 
about  the  base;  the  other,  the  Jerusalem  artichoke, 
is  the  root  of  a  small  sort  of  sunflower;  it  is  like  a 
misshapen  potato.  The  directions  given  for  cook- 
ing one  look  foolish  when  applied  to  the  other. 
There  are  so  many  better  vegetables  that  neither 
kind  of  artichoke  is  much  thought  of;  the  Jerusalem 
artichoke  had  its  day  before  the  potato  came  into 
general  use.  It  is  claimed  now  that  it  contains 
more  nutriment  than  the  potato,  will  grow  any- 
where and  can  remain  in  the  ground  all  winter 
without  injury.  This  root  artichoke  grows  wild  in 
the  western  prairie  states.  How  the  two  dissimilar 
vegetables  came  to  be  called  by  the  same  name  no- 
body now  knows,  but  the  term  Jerusalem  does  not 
mean  what  it  purports  to;  it  is  a  corruption  oigira- 
sola  —  an  Italian  word  meaning  sunflower.  Still 
this  mistaken  name  has  led  to  a  soup  made  of  a 
puree  of  Jerusalem  artichokes — like  potato  soup  — 
being  known  everywhere  as  Palestine  soup,  in 
reference  to  Jerusalem  city  being  in  Palestine. 


This,  the  thistle  or  globe-artichoke,  is  cultivated 
extensively  for  market  over  the  water  and  to  a  small 
extent  in  the  United  States.  It  is  also  dried  and  ex- 
ported. When  to  be  cooked,  the  dried  artichoke  is 
steeped  in  water.  It  is  the  white  part  that  is  eatable; 
the  center,  called  the  choke,  is  cut  out  when  the 
vegetable  is  half  cooked,  when  it  can  be  removed 
easily.  STUFFED  ARTICHOKES  —  The  leaves  and 
bottoms  pared  off,  choke  removed,  cavity  filled  with 
stuffing,  baked,  served  with  a  sauce  or  as  a  garnish 
to  a  dish  of  meat.  ARTICHOKES  A  LA  BARIGOULE — 
The  cavity  filled  with  a  fine  herbs  mince  of  mush- 
rooms, parsley,  shallots  and  minced  pork  in  espa- 
gnole  thickened,  baked  with  a  slice  of  pork  over  each 
stuffed  artichoke,  served  without  the  pork,  sauce 


ASP 

over.  ARTICHOKES  A  LA  LYONNAISE — Trimmed 
and  pared  down  to  the  fleshy  part,  cut  in  quarters, 
cored,  parboiled,  simmered  tender  in  seasoned  broth; 
served  with  onion  sauce,  brown.  ARTICHOKES  AU 
XATUREL — A  Parisian  authority  contends  that  the 
only  way  to  serve  artichokes  well  is  to  steep  them 
in  cold  water  2  hours,  boil  I  hour,  eat  by  pulling  off 
each  leaf  with  the  fingers  and  dipping  the  eatable 
base  in  melted  butter.  ARTICHAUTS  A  LA  GOUFFE— 
Fried  in  batter,  same  as  egg  plant.  ARTICHAUTS 
FARCIES  A  I.'ITALIENNE —  Parboiled,  insides  re- 
moved, stuffed  with  bread,  onion  and  grated  cheese, 
cooked  in  little  stock  in  a  covered  pan,  served  with 
brown  Italian  sauce.  ARTICHAUTS  A  L'ITALIENNE — 
Quartered,  cooked  in  wine  and  stock,  served  with 
white  Italian  sauce.  ARTICHOKE  SALAD — (/)-The 
bottoms  chopped  small,  mixed  with  heart  lettuce  also 
chopped ;  seasoned  with  oil  vinegar,  pepper  and  salt. 
(2)-Artichokes  previously  pared  and  quartered  and 
steeped  in  water,  containing  lemon  juice,  are  eaten 
as  salad  alone,  with  the  usual  seasonings.  ARTI- 
CHAUTS A  LA  HOLLANDAISE — Plain  boiled  and 
served  with  Hollandaise  sauce  to  dip  in.  ARTI- 
CHAUTS A  LA  BONNE  FEMME — The  same  served 
with  white  sauce.  ARTICHAUTS  A  L'BSSENCE  DE 
JAMBON — Stuffed,  braised  and  served,  covered  with 
a  puree  of  ham.  ITALIAN  GOBBO — The  growing 
leaves  of  the  globe  artichoke  are  doubled  back,  tied 
and  covered  with  earth  and  white  lumps  form  on 
the  stalks,  which  are  called  gobbo;  this  species  of 
salad  is  eaten  raw  with  salt.  ARTICHOKE,  JERU- 
SALEM— The  French  name  for  it  is  Topinambcur, 
the  old  name  of  potatoes.  This  tuber  is  apt 
to  turn  dark  in  cooking  as  salsify  does.  To 
prevent  that  it  is  thrown  into  water  contain- 
ing vinegar  as  soon  as  pared,  and  not  allowed 
to  remain  on  the  fire  after  it  is  done.  A  very  gen- 
eral use  of  it  in  the  southern  states  where  the  plant 
may  be  found  growing  in  garden  corners  without 
attention  is  as  a  pickle;  it  is  put  up  the  same  way  as 
cucumbers,  only  scalded,  not  cooked  soft.  TOPIN- 
AMBOURS  A  L'ITALIENNE — Cut  in  shapes,  stewed  in 
stock,  served  with  sauce.  TOPINAMBOURS  AU 
GRATIN— Jerusalem  artichokes  boiled,  mashed  and 
baked  with  grated  cheese  on  top.  TOPINAMBOURS 
A  LA  SOYER — Shaped  like  pears,  boiled  in  water 
with  onions,  butter  and  salt;  served  with  butter 
sauce  poured  over.  ARTICHOKE  FRITTERS — Same 
way  as  parsnip  or  salsify'fritters,  by  mashing,  mix- 
ing with  egg  and  dropping  spoonfuls  in  hot  lard. 
FRIED  ARTICHOKES — Done  same  way  as  fried  egg 
plant  ARTICHOKE  SOUP  ("Palestine  Soup") — 
Made  with  12  ounces  Jerusalem  artichokes  to  each 
quart  of  chicken  stock;  turnips,  celery  and  leeks 
added;  all  vegetables  passed  through  a  seive,  and 
cream  and  yolk  of  eggs  added — it  is  a  cream  puree 
of  artichokes. 

ASPARAGUS — Is  eaten  with  the  fingers  when 
cooked,  whether  hot  or  cold;  for  this  reason  aspar- 
agus on  toast  is  dished  with  the  heads  only  in  the 
butter  or  sauce,  the  toast  holding  up  the  white  ends 


242 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


ASP 

dry.  The  largest  on  record  were  a  hundred  heads 
{frown  at  Mortlake-on-the-Thames  which  weighed 
42  pounds,  the  bunch.  Another  hundred  presented 
to  George  II  in  1737  weighed  28  pounds.  A  tall 
story  has  recently  been  in  print  of  a  traveler  having 
discovered  a  giant  species  of  asparagus  12  inches 
thick,  growing  wild  in  Russian  Asia,  of  which  one 
head  was  enough  for  a  party  of  six.  The  larger  the 
%head  the  poorer  the  flavor,  however,  and  the  me- 
dium-sized green  tinted  is  the  best  eating.  It  might 
be  grown  in  the  garden  of  almost  every  hotel,  as  it 
only  needs  planting  once  to  come  up  in  the  same 
spot  for  years.  The  shoots  which  escape  cutting 
grow  to  a  beautiful  plant  with  feathery  foliage  and 
bright  red  berries,  making  a  fine  decorative  plant 
for  ball  rooms,  banquet  rooms,  etc.  Asparagus 
possesses  medicinal  qualities  similar  to  the  water  of 
sulphur  springs,  which  causes  it  to  be  adopted  as  a 
diet  in  the  canned  state  when  it  cannot  be  obtained 
green.  ASPARAGUS  EN  BRANCH  E — Is  plain  boiled 
and  served  in  bunches,  full  length.  ASPARAGUS 
PEAS — Are  the  pointes  d'asperges,  the  green  heads 
cut  small  and  served  in  soups  and  sauces.  CON- 
SOMME AUX  POINTES  D'ASPERGES  ET  CEups 
POCHES — Is  clear  soup  with  asparagus  heads  and 
poached  eggs,  same  as  a  I'Imferalrice.  Consomme 
Printan'ere  always  has  asparagus  heads.  ASPAR- 
AGUS SOUP,  PUREE  OF  ASPARAGUS,  CREAM  OF 
ASPARAGUS  are  three  kinds  in  which  this  vegetable 
is  the  principal  ingredient.  ASPARAGUS  A  LA 
CREME — The  green  heads,  boiled,  in  Bechamel 
sauce.  ASPARAGUS  EN  HOLLANDAISE— Served  on 
toast  with  that  sauce  poured  over  the  heads,  instead 
of  au  beurre,  with  butter,  or  an  jus,  with  gravy. 
ASPARAGUS  EN  MAYONAISE — The  heads  cooked, 
cut  small,  seasoned,  and  served  cold  as  a  salad  with 
dressing.  ICED  ASPARAGUS — The  heads  dressed  in 
oil  and  vinegar,  and  frozen.  ASPARAGUS  OMELET 
— The  green  heads  cooked  and  drained,  mixed  in  an 
omelet.  STEWED  ASPARAGUS  HEADS — The  heads 
partly  fried  (saute)  in  bacon  fat,  with  chopped  pars- 
ley, chervil  salt,  pepper,  and  slight  grating  of  nut- 
meg, stock  and  gravy  added,  simmered,  skimmed, 
served  on  toast.  CHOPPED  ASPARAGUS  A  LA  POM- 
PADOUR— Boiled  green  in  salted  water,  the  heads 
cut  off,  of  good  length,  placed  on  hot  cloth  near  the 
fire.  Some  hollandaise  of  butter  yolks,  salt,  pepper, 
little  vinegar,  cooked  in  a  pan  in  boiling  water  till 
just  thickened,  and  poured  over  asparagus.  AS- 
PARAGUS WITH  CREAM — The  heads  cut  small, 
blanched  in  boiling  water  for  3  minutes,  simmered 
in  a  saucepan  with  butter,  lump  of  sugar,  an  onion, 
very  little  water;  onion  removed,  cream  added  and 
thickened  slightly;  served  on  toast.  ASPAR\GUS 
WITH  EGGS — Cold,  served  en  branche  or  full  length, 
with  olive  oil  and  quarters  of  hard-boiled  eggs. 
ASPARAGUS  STUFFING — Chickens  and  pigeons  are 
filled  with  asparagus  heads,  seasoned,  sewed  up 
and  roasted  over  toasted  bread.  ASPARAGUS  TO 
BOIL— The  stalks,  after  being  scraped  and  washed, 
are  tied  in  bunches  and  the  butt  ends  cut  off  even,  \ 


ASP 

to  make  them  of  one  length.  The  water  has  salt  in 
it  and  a  pinch  of  soda,  and  should  be  boiling  when 
the  bunches  are  dropped  in.  The  soda  preserves 
the  green  color  if  the  lid  is  kept  off  the  saucepan. 
Takes  about  20  minutes  to  cook.  The  very  slender 
and  green  stalks  of  asparagus  are  called  sprue  and 
cooked  like  greens.  DRIED  ASPARAGUS — Soyer 
tells  us  that  the  Romans  dried  asparagus  for  use 
in  winter  and  restored  it  by  soaking  in  water. 
CANNED  ASPARAGUS— Is  good  except  in  the  one  re- 
spect of  the  heads  being  generally  broken.  It 
should  not  be  taken  out  of  the  cans  to  cook,  but  the 
cans  opened  at  the  butt,  as  shown  by  the  label,  set 
on  the  range  and  the  stalks  served  from  the  can. 
ASPARAGUS  CREAM  A  LA  NOEL — A  French  restau- 
rant specialty;  an  entree  formed  in  a  mould  and 
turned  out;  made  of  asparagus  and  breast  of  chicken 
in  equal  parts,  chicken  pounded  and  forced  through 
a  seive  and  mixed  with  little  veloute,  asparagus 
divided  into  green  puree  and  white  puree.  Half 
the  chicken  paste  mixed  with  the  green,  other  with 
the  white;  green  in  buttered  mould  first,  white  to 
fill.  Steamed  an  hour  without  letting  it  reach  boil- 
ing heat;  turned  out  and  bordered  with  green  as- 
paragus prepared  separately.  The  special  mould 
is  in  shape  of  a  fine  bunch  of  asparagns. 

ASPIC  JELLY — Is  meat  jelly,  such  as  is  obtained 
by  boiling  calves'  feet  or  shanks  or  chickens  down 
to  jelly,  but  to  make  it  handsome,  for  ornamental 
purposes,  it  is  clarified  with  white  of  eggs  and 
strained  through  flannel,  and,  to  save  labor,  it  is 
oftenest  made  of  gelatine  added  to  clear  soup.  If 
the  soup  is  already  rich  and  strong,  ij^  ounces 
gelatine  to  each  quart  makes  a  jelly  firm  enough  to 
be  handled  and  stamped  into  ornamental  shapes.  It 
is  necessary  for  the  aspic  jelly  to  contain  white 
wine  and  lemon  juice  as  two  of  the  ingredients,  but 
the  remaining  flavorings  may  be  according  to  the 
cook's  taste  and  judgment,  the  intention  being  to 
provide  a  jelly  of  a  spicy  taste — tasting  like  a  savory 
game  pie'  or  any  meat  pie,  or  like  head  cheese,  but 
clear  as  glass  and  finely  colored  with  burnt  sugar 
or  with  saffron  or  cochineal.  When  made  it  is  kept 
in  a  jar  on  ice  till  wanted,  or  in  thin  sheets  or  dishes 
to  be  cut  in  fancy  shapes. 

ASPIC  MAYONNAISE  — Is  aspic  jelly  and 
mayonnaise  mixed  togehter,  forming  a  shining 
yellow  jelly,  not  transparent.  Is  also  made  by  stir- 
ring mustard,  etc.,  into  aspic. 

ASPICS — Dishes  of  all  savory  sorts  that  are  put 
together  with  aspic  jelly  or  aspic  mayonnaise,  such 
as  pieces  of  fish  placed  in  order  in  a  mould  and  fast- 
ened there  with  aspic  jelly,  the  mould  being  set  on 
ice  and  the  interior  filled  with  something  solidified 
by  having  melted  jelly  mixed  in,  or  chicken,  shrimps 
or  lobster  on  a  flat  dish  with  aspic  cooled  upon  or 
around  them.  ASPIC  OF  SOLES  OR  OTHER  FISH — 
Fillets  of  solee  rolled  up  cone-shape  are  steamed, 
half  of  them  placed  point  downwards  in  a  mould, 
melted  pale  aspic  jelly  poured  in  to  just  cover;  set  in 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


243 


ASS 

ice  to  become  firm.  Some  jelly  colored  green  poured 
into  the  next  tier  of  fillets  point  upwards  on  top  of 
the  former  when  set  solid.  Yolks  of  hard-boiled 
eggs  rubbed  through  a  seive,  mixed  in  more  jelly  to 
fill  up  mould  when  again  set.  Turned  out  on  a  lace 
paper  covered  dish;  highly  ornamented.  ASPIC  OF 
FILLETS  OF  TROUT — A  dozen  fillets  of  fish  with 
butter  and  seasonings  lightly  baked  in  a  covered 
pan  and  then  cooled  with  a  light  weight  upon 
them  to  flatten.  When  cold,  cut  out  rounds  about 
size  of  silver  dollar  are  placed  in  order  in  a  mould 
lined  with  a  coating  of  aspic  by  turning  it  about 
on  ice  and  parsley,  eggs,  anchovies  in  strips, 
and  capers  added  in  ornamental  patterns,  the  inside 
filled  with  more  fillets  mixed  with  mayonnaise  jelly. 
Aspics  of  poultry  livers,  ox-palates,  quenelles,  fillets 
of  game,  chicken,  turtle  fins,  plovers'  eggs  and  al- 
most anything  can  be  made  either  in  moulds  or  in 
flat  dishes  surrounded  with  a  green  salad,  or  in  a 
border  mould,  the  center  to  be  filled  with  a  salad 
after  it  is  turned  out.  ASPIC  A  LA  CZARINA  (Club 
specialty) — The  meat  of  3  grouse  pounded  in  a  mor- 
tar, seasoned,  passed  through  seive,  mixed  with  a 
pint  of  whipped  cream,  little  aspic  and  chaudfroid 
sauce.  Set  in  a  square  shallow  mould  on  ice. 
Turned  out,  dressed  with  brown  chaudfroid  sauce, 
decorated  with  truffles  and  aspic  on  a  stand  of  rice, 
and  surrounded  with  green  salad. 

ASSAFCETIDA— A  mal -odorous  gum  which  has 
the  taste  and  smell  of  garlic  intensified.  It  is  ob- 
tained from  a  shrub.  Is  used  in  small  quantities  to 
impart  the  garlic  flavor  to  some  bottled  table  sauces. 
Among  the  accounts  of  ancient  banquets  we  find 
mention  of  kid  dressed  with  assafoetida,  and  it  has 
been  used  as  a  seasoning  in  later  times.  One  present 
use  of  it  is  to  carry  about  the  person  as  a  protection 
against  contagious  diseases,  such  as  yellow  fever 
It  is  reputed  to  have  virtues  in  that  respect  similar 
to  camphor. 

ASSES'  FLESH  — The  market  statistics  show 
that  500  asses  and  mules  were  slaughtered  and  sold 
in  Paris  last  year,  as  well  as  1,800  horses,  for  meat. 
The  asses'  flesh  sold  at  2  cents  a  pound  higher  than 
hotee-flesh. 

ASSES'  MILK — Has  had  a  run  at  various  times 
as  a  health  food  for  children  and  consumptives. 
There  used  to  be  milk-stands  in  the  London  parks 
where  the  donkeys,  sleek,  curried  and  beautifully 
kept,  were  milked  to  order  for  children  and  other 
customers  as  they  came. 

ASSIETTE  (Fr.)— Dinner-plate. 

ATELETS  OR  HATELETS— Skewers,  some  of 
silver  with  ornamental  heads  are  for  decorating 
cold  dishes,  others  for  cooking  "kebobs"  on  or  any 
meats  ft  la  brochette. 

ATTELET  (Fr.)— Bleak,  a  small  fish. 

ATTEREAU  DE  ROGNONS— Brochette  or 
skewer  of  chicken  kidneys,  a  French  restaurant 
specialty.  Cook  some  "rognons  de  coq"  in  white 


BAC 

stock,  allow  them  to  cool  in  their  liquor;  drain;  run 
on  silver  skewers  with  cockscombs  between.  Cover 
with  chaudfroid  sauce,  then  with  beaten  egg,  bread 
crumb  them  and  fry.  Served  on  the  skewers,  gar- 
nished. 

ATTEREAUX  (Fr.)— The  ornaments  cut  out  of 
firm  aspic  jelly  for  bordering  dishes. 

AU,  AUX — To  or  with ;  as  beef  au  celeri  or  aux 
oignons  (onions);  an  is  used  when  the  accompanying 
article  is  but  one  thing,  and  aux  when  it  is  many. 
Au  GRATIN — With  a  brown  or  toasted  surface.  Au 
Jus — With  gravy.  Au  -JAMBON — With  ham.  Aux 
CHAMPIGNONS — With  button  mushrooms. 

AUBERGE  (Fr.)— An  inn. 

AUBERGINE— The  egg-plant. 

AURELIAN  CAKE— A  rice  sponge  cake,  of  % 
pound  ground  rice,  %  pound  sugar,  12  eggs  with  3 
of  the  whites  left  out,  brandy  and  flavoring.  Made 
like  sponge  cake. 

AURORA  SOUP— Potage  a  I'Aurore,  or  soup 
blushing  like  the  morning;  the  fanciful  name  given 
by  a  cook  to  a  soup  made  orange-colored,  with  a 
puree  of  carrots  and  further  thickened  with  yolks  of 
eggs. 

AURORA  SAUCE  — Lobster  butter  made  by 
pounding  lobster  coral  (the  egg)  and  butter  together, 
mixed  in  white  sauce.  It  is  pink,  and  when  lobster 
coral  cannot  be  obtained  is  colored  to  imitate  it. 
Lemon  juice,  salt  and  cayenne  required  in  the  sauce. 
Served  with  fish. 

A  VENA — Latin  name  of  oats.  ROLLED  AVEN  A — 
Crushed  oats  or  oatmeal. 


B. 


BABA — Polish  cake  in  comnion  use;  a  yeast- 
raised,  white  sort  of  fruit  cake,  made  of  sugar,  but- 
ter and  eggs,  few  raisins  and  almonds  mixed  with  a 
piece  of  light  dough  about  equal  in  weight  to  all  of 
them,  thoroughly  beaten;  let  rise  in  moulds,  and 
baked.  BABA  AU  RHUM — The  baba  cake  served 
as  pudding  with  hot  syrup,  containing  rum,  poured 
over  it. 

BACON — Needs  to  be  timed  in  boiling  to  %  hour 
for  each  pound.  BACON,  BROILED — Thin  slices 
broiled  to  a  crisp  over  a  charcoal  fire.  BACON  WITH 
EGGS — The  bacon  on  the  dish  first,  and  fried  eggs 
on  top.  BACON  OMELET — Lean  bacon  minced  very 
fine  and  lightly  fried,  the  fat  poured  into  another 
pan,  and  omelet  poured  into  that,  cooked  bacon 
strewed  all  over  the  surface;  when  soft  cooked, 
rolled  up,  garnished  with  parsley  in  the  dish. 
STUFFED  BACOX — Cut  thin,  bujt  slices  left  in  pairs, 
not  quite  separated;  stuffed  with  mashed  potatoes 
and  rolled  in  cracker  dust  or  crumbs;  fried.  BACON 
AND  SPINACH — Slices  of  boiled  bacan  laid  upon  i 
bed  of  seasoned  spinach.  BACON  AND  FISH — Broiled 
or  fried  bacon  is  the  best  accompaniment  to  fried  or 
broiled  trout,  bass  or  other  fresh  -water  fish.  BACON 


244 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


BAC 

AND  BEEFSTEAK — Broiled  steak,  with  a  slice  or  two 
of  broiled  bacon  on  top,  is  esteemed  a  luxury. 
BACON  AND  CABBAGE — Boiled  together  and  slices  of 
bacon  served  with  cabbage.  BACON  AND  GREEN 
BEANS — In  some  parts  of  the  states  string  or  snap 
beans  will  hardly  be  eaten  without  bacon;  it  is  boiled 
along  with  them,  and  small  pieces  cut  and  served  in 
each  dish  sent  in.  BACON  AND  WHITE  BEANS — The 
French  cooks  think  it  all  right  to  boil  navy  beans 
plain  and  serve  them  with  a  slice  of  bacon  on  each 
order — it  is  their  substitute  for  baked  pork  and 
beans,  which  they  seldom  cook.  BACON  WITH 
CHICKEN — Boiled  chicken  and  turkey  go  well  with 
boiled  bacon,  but  the  unsmoked  or  very  light  smoked 
is  required — the  "  bulk  meat "  or  salt  pork.  BACON 
IN  CANVAS — Is  too  dear  for  constant  use,  the  weight 
of  the  wrappings  having  to  be  paid  for,  and  the  qual- 
ity of  bacon  is  hidden;  thin  and  unserviceable  pieces 
that  trim  half  away  are  covered  up  in  canvas,  of 
which  the  only  use  is  to  keep  insects  out  of  the  meat 
for  those  who  keep  it  in  stock.  The  most  profitable 
to  buy  is  bacon  by  the  box  of  50  to  100  pounds,  well 
smoked,  free  from  bone  and  not  canvassed.  The  re- 
moval of  the  bones  from  the  rib  sides  will  be  found 
to  cause  much  waste  of  the  meat  at  the  same  cutting 
unless  use  can  be  found  for  such  outside  cuts. 
BACON  AND  SAUERKRAUT — Should  go  together. 

BACKBONE  — Chine  of  pork;  the  American 
bacon  maker's  cut,  being  the  entire  backbone  of  the 
hog  from  the  ears  to  the  tail,  the  latter  included,  i 
BACKBONE  STEW — Country  luxury;  the  backbone  \ 
chopped  in  convenient  pieces,  stewed  with  an  onion,  I 
potatoes,  pinch  of  sage,  salt,  pepper,  and  flour  to 
thicken.  BACKBONE  POT  PIE— The  stew  in  a  wide 
pan,  spoonfuls  of  biscuit  dough  dropped  in.  BACK- 
BONE PIE — The  stew  in  a  baking  pan,  covered  with 
sheet  of  paste,  and  baked.  BAKED  BACKBONE— 
Chopped  in  convenient  pieces,  salt,  pepper  and 
sprinkling  of  sage;  baked  brown.  The  bones  being 
exceedingly  abundant  in  packing  house  localities 
make  a  glut  of  pork  food  at  certain  seasons  like  the 
gluts  of  fish  in  other  places.  Stuffed  chine,  broiled 
bones  with  fried  apples  and  apple  sauce,  bones  with 
Robert  sauce,  bones  with  onions,  and  in  many  of  the 
ways  of  regular  pork  cooking  are  then  equally  in 
vogue. 

BADGER — Like  a  small  bear;  eaten  by  hunters 
and  trappers;  tastes  like  wild  boar. 

BAG  PUDDINGS— The  kind  of  puddings  named 
in  the  poem :  "  A  bag  pudding  this  king  did  make, 
And  stuffed  it  well  with  plums,  And  in  he  put  great 
lumps  of  fat  As  big  as  my  two  thumbs."  Christmas 
plum  or  egg  batter  or  other  kinds  tied  up  in  a  bag 
and  boiled. 

BAGRATION  (a  ta)—A  few  preparations  bear- 
ing this  designation,  perhaps  half  a  dozen,  one-half 
of  them  being^soups,  were  so  named  by  CarSme  in 
compliment  to  a  countess  of  Bagration  of  his  time. 
They  are  all  comtinations  of  fish  and  vegetables. 

BAHAMA  SAUCE — A  fish  sauce  composed  of 


BAR 

the  liquor  in  which  a  fish  is  simmered  with  Bermuda 
onion,  Bahama  chillies,  wine,  broth,  parsley,  etc. 

BAIN-MAR1E-A  double  kettle  of  anykind,  the 
inr.cr  vessel  surrounded  by  water,  like  a  farina-kettle 
or  glue -pot. 

BAKING  POWDER- Cream  of  tartar,  30  oz.; 
bicarbonate  of  soda,  15  ox..;  flour,  5  oz.:  mixed. 
"  I  chanced  to  pick  up  as  my  dinner  companion  one 
of  the  officers  of  a  leading  baking-powder  company. 
Probably  others  will  be  surprised  as  was  the  lounger 
to  learn  that  their  sales  of  the  single  article  of  bak- 
ing powder  reach  $3,500,000  or  more.  At  35  cents 
per  pound  this  represents  the  distribution  of  10,000,  - 
ooo  pounds  of  powder.  I  managed  to  worm  out  of 

i  my  friend  that  the  company  has  a  capital  of  $160,000. 
Then  I  commenced  to  do  a  little  figuring  on  my  own 
account.  I  happened  to  have  in  my  note-book  the 
formula  for  a  baking  powder,  viz. :  100  Ibs.  cream 
tartar,  38  Ibs.  bicarbonate  of  soda,  7  Ibs.  tartaric  acid, 

I  and  20  Ibs.  rice  flour.  Taking  the  latest  current 
quotations  of  these  articles  I  figured  out  the  cost 
of  a  batch  of  baking  powder,  and,  with  thill  as 
a  basis,  we  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  company 
must  divide  up  somewhere  from  $600,000  to  $Soo,ooo 
a  year.  We  no  longer  wonder  why  the  stockholders 
build  rows  of  brown-stone  fronts  in  Brooklyn.  I 
then  wheeled  around  and  asked  my  companion  the 
secret  of  the  success  of  his  company  against  many 
rivals,  when  he  replied :  '  There  are  just  two  things 
about  it.  First,  we  resolved  to  make  the  best  baking 
powder  that  could  be  made,  and,  second,  to  let  the 
people  know  it."  We  imagine  that  is  the  reason 
why  they  advertise  in  over  5,000  different  newspapers 
and  compel  the  grocers  to  keep  their  baking  powder 
in  stock,  whether  they  want  to  or  not." 

BAKING  POWDER  BRIOCHES— Sweet  buns 
raised  with  powder  instead  of  the  customary  yeast; 
the  bun  is  dipped  in  a  wine-flavored  syrup  after 
baking. 

BAKED  BEANS— White  haricot  or  navy  beans, 
steeped  in  water  for  several  hours,  are  then  baked 
in  a  stone  jar  with  salt,  piece  of  salt  pork  and  small 
quantity  of  molasses;  allowed  to  remain  in  the  oven 
S  or  10  hours.  Cooked  in  that  way  the  dish  is  called 
Boston  baked  beans  to  distinguish  from  another 
way  of  cooking  rapidly  by  boiling  with  soda  in  the 
water,  then  seasoning  and  baking  in  a  pan. 

BAKEWELL  PUDDING  — The  Derbyshire 
(Eng.)  specialty,  from  the  ducal  residence  of  Chats- 
worth,  famed  for  having  the  highest  fountain  jet  in 
the  worid.  The  pudding  is  an  open  deep  pie,  made 
by  spreading  a  layer  of  preserves  on  the  bottom 
crust  of  puff  paste;  apricot,  peach  or  cherry  pre- 
serves are  suitable;  adding  thin  strips  of  candied 
orange  peel  or  citron,  then  making  a  rich  "trans- 
parent pie"  mixture  of  butter,  sugar,  6  jz.  of  each, 
4  eggs,  lemon -flavored  brandy,  and  2  oz.  rlour, 
spreading  on  top  of  the  preserves  and  baking  very 
carefully,  for  it  is  easy  to  burn  on  top. 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


245 


BAL 

BALL  SUPPERS— Ball  suppers  were  most  un- 
satisfactory affairs  until  Ude,  the  French  chef,  hit 
upon  a  plan  of  serving-  a  supper  which  should  at 
once  satisfy  the  guest  by  the  excellence  of  the  re- 
past and  the  novelty  of  the  arrangement,  and  the 
host  by  the  smallness  of  the  expense.  This  plan  is 
to  ornament  the  sideboard  with  a  basket  of  fruit, 
instead  of  insignificant  pieces  of  pastry.  Place  in 
their  stead  things  that  cr.a  be  eaten — such  as 
jelly,  plates  of  mixed  pastry,  and  sandwiches  of  a 
superior  kind,  but  not  in  too  great  profusion.  Affix 
a  label  to  each  plate,  indicating  its  contents,  and 
you  will  find  this  arrangement  will  give  the  guests 
an  opportunity  of  taking  refreshments  without  be- 
ing obliged  to  seat  themselves  at  a  table  from  which 
the  ladies  cannot  rise  without  disordering  their 
dresses,  which  to  them  is  a  matter  of  far  greater 
moment  than  the  best  ball  supper  in  the  world. 

BALL    STAND-UP    SUPPER  —  Humorously 

described  by  Theodore  Hook  as  "tables  against  the 
wall,  covered  with  cold  negus  and  warm  ice;  where 
men,  women  and  children  take  perpendicular  re- 
freshments, like  so  many  horses  with  their  noses  in 
the  manger." 

BALL  SUPPER  WASTE— The  waste  of  ball 
suppers  of  old  was  almost  incredible.  Ude  states 
that  he  has  known  balls  where  the  next  day,  in  spite 
of  the  pillage  of  a  pack  of  footmen,  he  has  seen  20 
or  30  hams,  150  or  200  carved  fowls,  and  40  or  50 
tongues  given  away;  jellies  melted  on  the  tables; 
pastry,  pate's,  pies  and  lobster  salads,  all  heaped  up 
in  the  kitchen  and  strewed  about  the  passages, 
completely  disfigured  by  the  manner  in  which  it 
was  necessary  to  take  them  from  the  dishes  in  which 
they  had  been  served. 

BALLOTINES— Ballotines  are  small  galantines 
made  by  treating  small  birds  as  directed,  only  that 
the  force-meat  should  have  a  larger  proportion  of 
truffles,  and  be  made  of  the  same  kind  of  bird;  for 
instance,  grouse  would  have  a  rich  force-meat  of 
grouse.  One  grouse,  however,  would  make  two 
or  four  ballotines;  quails  make  two,  to  be  served  as 
individuals.  (See  galantines.) 

BANANA — Fruit  of  tropical  and  semi-tropical 
countries  and  is  the  principal  food  of  natives  of 
some  West  India  islands.  Exaggerated  statements 
of  the  amount  of  nutriment  contained  in  bananas 
have  been  circulated,  shown  to  be  fallacious  by  dry- 
ing the  fruit,  which  parts  with  %  °f  >ts  weight  as 
water.  Remainder  is  like  sweet  dried  pumpkin. 
CANDIED  BANANAS — Dried  bananas  crystallized  in 
sugar  before  quite  dried  out.  BAKED  BANANAS — 
Breakfast  dish;  split,  laid  in  pan  with  butter  and 
sugar  over,  baked  to  a  state  like  candy.  FRIED 
BANANAS — Either  whole  or  cut  across,  dipped  in 
syrup,  then  rolled  in  flour  and  dropped  into  hot  oil 
or  lard  till  crisp  outside.  BANANA  FRITTERS — Cut 
in  two  across,  steeped  in  rum  or  any  liquor  or  wine 
and  sugar;  drained,  dipped  in  fritter  batter  and 
fried;  rolled  in  powdered  sugar  or  served  with  a 


BAR 

sauce.  BANANA  PIE  OR  PUDDING — Mashed,  mixed 
with  sugar,  lemon  juice,  butter  and  eggs,  and  baked 
in  a  dish  with  bottom  crust  of  paste.  BANANA 
COVERED  PIE — Sliced,  sprinkled  with  lemon  juice, 
sugar,  bits  of  butter,  moistened  with  wine  or 
brandy,  baked  with  bottom  and  top  crust.  BANANA 
ICE  CREAM — Two  bananas,  pulped,  to  each  quart 
of  cream.  BANANA  CANDIES — Flavored  with  ex- 
tract; also,  in  imitation  of  peeled  bananas.  BANANA 
CAKE — Two  sheets  of  cake,  sliced  bananas  dipped 
in  sweet  wine  laid  between;  banana-flavored  yellow 
icing  on  top.  BANANAS  FOR  THE  TABLE — Among 
the  very  best  of  fruit.  They  have  the  ends  cut  off, 
are  wiped  with  a  cloth  and  placed  on  stands  in  their 
skins.  BANANA  AMBROSIA — Cut  up  with  oranges, 
cocoanut,  wine  and  sugar.  BANANA  FRITTERS  (a) 
— Mashed  bananas  i%  Ibs.,  flour  J^  lb.,  sugar  2  oz., 
lard  2  oz.,  and  i  or  2  eggs.  Dropped  by  spoofuls  in 
hot  lard.  Bananas  baked  are  served  up  with  baked 
monkey  in  Brazil,  like  our  oppossum  \vith  sweet 
potatoes. 

BANBURY  CAKES— A  popular  kind  of  turn- 
over or  puff,  having  a  mince  mixture  inside  of  a 
fold  of  puff  short- paste.  The  mince  is  variously 
compounded,  either  with  crumbled  slices  of  cake, 
chopped  apples,  jam,  candied  peel,  and  spice,  or 
with  butter  and  sugar  stirred  together,  and  raisins, 
currants  and  peel  added.  Paste  rolled  thin,  is  cut 
out  with  an  oval  cutter  having  scalloped  edges, 
mince  placed  in  the  middle,  edges  wetted ;  another 
paste  on  top,  egged,  top  dipped  in  sugar  and  baked. 
BANNOCKS— Scottish;  Cakes  made  of  barley 
or  oatmeal,  baked  on  an  iron  plate  or  girdle  or 
griddle. 

BARM — Scotch  bakers'  name  for  liquid  yeast  as 
made  by  them.  The  ordinary  "ferment." 

BARATARIA  SHRIMPS— The  name  now  so 
widely  diffused  as  a  brand  of  canned  .shrimps,  has 
reference  to  Barataria  Bay  in  southern  Louisiana, 
once  the  rendezvous  of  the  pirate  Lafitte;  locally 
famous  also  for  its  large  oysters. 

BARMECIDE  FEAST— A  great  array  of  dishes, 
but  little  or  nothing  on  them.  There  is  a  story  in 
the  Arabian  Nights  of  a  prince  of  the  Barmecides 
family  who  invited  a  number  of  people,  his  depend- 
ents, to  dinner.  The  table  was  set,  each  dish  hav- 
ing a  cover  over  it,  according  to  the  old  fashion. 
When  the  signal  was  given  the  covers  were  raised 
and  showed  the  dishes  absolutely  empty.  Never- 
theless, the  host  went  through  the  motions  of  help- 
ing himself  out  of  the  various  dishes  and  pretend- 
ing to  eat  and  get  filled  up,  and  the  guests,  being 
his  dependents  and  afraid  of  him,  had  to  do  the 
same  and  pretended  to  have  had  a  good  dinner, 
though  they  had  not  had  a  mouthful.  The  Barme- 
cide prince  had  some  motive  in  this  which  the  story 
tells,  and  from  this  story  comes  the  allusions  to 
Barmecides  and  their  banquets. 

BARBUE  (Fr.)  -Brill,  a  fish. 

BARTAVELLE— Barnade  bird;  Scotch  goose. 


246 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


BAS 

BARLEY — For  cooking  purposes  is  of  two  kinds 
or  more:  Scotch  and  pearl  barley;  the  latter  is  larger 
grain  and  whiter;  either  kind  answers  for  cooking; 
both  are  cheap,  costing  less  than  rice  and  swelling 
to  a  great  bulk  in  boiling  water.  BARLEY  BROTH — 
Mutton,  barley,  turnips,  onions,  or  leeks,  and  water; 
not  thickened  otherwise  than  with  the  barley. 
BARLEY  SOUP — Meat  stock  and  various  vegetables 
cut  small,  some  barley  well  boiled  separately  and 
added  along  with  flour  thickening.  CREAM  OF 
BARLEY— A  rich  white  soup  of  chicken  or  veal,  or 
other  white  stock,  with  celery  and  mixed  vegetables; 
barley  rubbed  through  a  strainer,  cream  or  milk  and 
little  bntter  and  parsley.  BARLEY  WATER— Gruel 
for  the  sick,  made  by  boiling  barley  in  two  waters 
and  straining  off.  BARLEY  PUDDINGS — (/)-Boiled 
barley  with  butter  and  a  custard  mixture  of  eggs  and 
milk;  baked.  (2)-Boiled  barley  stirred  up  with  mol- 
asses and  suet;  baked.  BARLEY  BREAD — Made  of 
a  mixture  of  barley  meal  with  flour.  Scarcely  known 
in  this  country,  but  used  in  lands  where  there  is  no 
cornmeal.  BARLEY  BANNOCKS— Flat  cakes  of  bar- 
ley meal  baked  on  a  griddle;  very  thin. 

BARLEY  SUGAR— Old-fashioned  sort  of  clear 
stick  candy.  No  particular  reason  for  the  name, 
but  taste  resembling  barley  malt. 

BARNACLES— A  shell  fish;  like  a  mussel,  but 
only  about  an  inch  in  length;  said  to  be  eaten  by 
the  Chinese,  Japanese,  and  others.  Barnacles  at- 
tach themselves  to  floating  logs  and  wooden  piles, 
and  to  the  bottom  of  vessels. 

BARSZEZ— Polish  beet  soup.  On  the  occasion 
of  a  banquet  given  by  Prince  Czartoryski  in  Paris, 
this  soup  figured  on  the  menu,  the  recipe  having 
been  sent  from  Cracow  for  the  purpose.  It  was 
made  by  filling  a  good  sized  jar  with  slices  of  raw 
beets  cut  small,  covering  with  water  and  placing  a 
slice  of  bread  on  top.  Covered  and  let  ferment, 
which  takes  from  3  to  5  days.  Skimmed  and  the 
juice  passed  through  a  seive,  then  boiled  with  an 
equal  proportion  of  strong  beef  stock,  to  which  was 
added  small  pieces  of  ham.  The  soup  went  to  table 
looking  clear  and  red. 

BARBECUE — See  description  at  page  164. 

BARBEL— A  fish  of  "  the  other  side;"  not  very 
highly  valued.  It  is  generally  broiled. 

BARBEAU  or  BARBILLON  (Fr.)— Barbel. 

BARBE  DE  CAPUCIN  (Fr.)— Monk's  beard; 
name  of  a  salad  herb;  chicory. 

BARDS  (Fr.)— Slices  of  pork  or  bacon,  which 
are  laid  upon  the  breasts  of  grouse,  etc.,  and 
wrapped  around  small  birds  before  cooking. 

BARDES  (Fr.)— Barded  or  covered  with  slices 
of  fat  bacon. 

BASIL — One  of  the  standard  "pot  herbs;"  it  is 
thought  to  be  specially  suitable  for  turtle  soup;  can 
be  grown  in  any  kitchen  garden  like  thyme,  marjo- 
ram, etc.,  and  can  be  bought,  dried  and  powdered, 
in  cans. 


BAS 

BAR  (Fr.)— Bass.     BASSE  also. 

BASSE  RAYEE  (Fr.)— Striped  bass. 

BASS— There  are  half  a  dozen  or  more  kinds: 
Black  bass,  northern;  black  bass,  southern;  striped 
bass,  rock  bass,  channel  bass,  sea  bass  or  red  fish; 
all  regarded  first-class  for  the  table  and  for  sport. 
The  southern  black  bass  is  a  coarser  looking  fish 
than  that  of  the  North;  its  scales  are  larger  and  it 
is  not  so  finely  marked  as  its  northern  brother,  nei- 
ther is  its  flesh  so  firm  and  hard;  but  the  meat  is 
very  sweet  and  it  does  not  have  the  strong  grassy 
taste  that  some  of  those  found  in  western  waters 
have.  It  is  the  best  fresh-water  fish  found  in  the 
South,  notwithstanding  it  seems  to  be  one-third 
head — it  is  the  large-mouthed  variety.  Northern 
bass  have  the  quality  of  keeping  fresh  longer  than 
other  fish,  and  are  safe  kinds  to  buy  and  satisfactory 
to  serve,  especially  in  restaurants  where  one  or  two 
pound  sizes  are  in  demand.  BROILED  BASS  WITH 
BACON — A  favorite  way  of  calling  for  bass.  The 
fish  scored  deeply  on  each  side  and  broiled  whole; 
crisp-broiled  bacon  served  on  top  of  the  fish  and  cut 
lemons  the  only  sauce.  BROILED  BASS— -Split, 
dipped  in  flour,  broiled,  basted  with  butter  brush, 
served  with  maitre  d'hotel  butter.  BASS  A  LA 
MAITRE  D'HOTEL — Broiled  whole,  butter  worked 
up  with  parsley  and  lemon  juice  spread  over  the 
fish.  BASS  STEWED— In  shallow  saucepan  whole, 
with  onions,  can  tomatoes,  little  wine,  espagnole 
sauce,  salt,  pepper,  parsley,  stewed  40  minutes. 
Sauce  reduced  and  strained  over.  BASS  A  L'ETUVEE 
— Stewed  bass.  Cut  up,  white  butter  sauce  mixed 
with  onions  made  and  fish  stewed  in  it;  claret,  nut- 
meg, parsley,  sauce  and  croutons.  BASS  IN  MATE- 
LOTE—Matelote  is  a  fish  stew.  This  has  cut-up  fish 
cooked  in  red  wine  stock,  dipped  out,  sauce  strained 
and  thickened,  glazed  small  onions  and  mushrooms 
added.  STUFFED  BLACK  BASS,  CRAYFISH  SAUCE — 
Fish  opened,  stuffed,  tied  together,  simmered  in 
wine  stock  in  covered  boiler.  Gravy  thickened 
with  flour  and  egg  yolks  and  made  pink  with  lob- 
ster or  crayfish  butter;  crayfish  tails  garnish. 
STRIPED  BASS  A  LA  CONTE — Whole,  baked  in  oven 
with  oiled  paper  over  and  wine  and  broth  in  the 
pan,  oil,  salt,  pepper,  shallots,  parsley,  sauce  thick- 
ened, espagnole  added,  strained  over.  FILLETS  OF 
STRIPED  BASS  A  LA  BORDEI.AISE — Each  fillet  cut  in 
two,  being  4  from  each  fish,  steeped  in  oil  and  lemon 
juice,  drained  and  dusted  with  flour;  dipped  in  egg 
yolk  mixed  with  warm  butter  and  in  bread  crumbs, 
and  broiled.  Sauce  made  of  heads  or  bones  boiled 
down  and  tomato  sauce  added.  FILLETS  OF  BASS 
A  LA  MANHATTAN — The  flesh  of  the  fish  chopped 
fine,  made  into  flat  croquettes  and  fried.  Dished  in 
cirle,  tomato  sauce  in  center.  FILLETS  OF  BASS  EN 
PAPILOTTE — Small  pieces  well  shaped  partly  fried 
in  butter;  taken  out,  and  thick  pasty  sauce  made  in 
same  butter  of  onions,  mushrooms,  wine,  thick 
veloute,  parsley,  yolks,  poured  over  the  fillets  and 
cooled.  Each  fillet  on  a  sheet  buttered  note  paper 
with  the  sauce  covering,  paper  doubled  over  and 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


247 


BEA 

edges  pinched,  baked  brown;  fine  herb  sauce.  BAR 
A  L'EAU  DE  SEL — Plain  boiled  in  salt  water.  BAR 
SAUCE  AU  BEURRE — Broiled  and  served  with  butter 
sauce. 

BAT— There  is  a  kind  called  the  edible  bat;  body 
about  10  inches  long,  flesh  white,  tender,  delicate; 
eaten  in  the  East  Indies. 

BATRACIAN— Scientific  name  of  the  frog,  and 
used  frequently  as  a  synonym. 

BATTER  — Thin  mixture  of  flour  with  some 
liquid;  generally,  to  "  make  a  batter  "  means  flour 
and  water  mixed  smooth,  then  eggs,  melted  butter, 
salt,  sugar,  etc.,  added.  FRITTER  BATTER— Is  thick 
enough  to  coat  over  whatever  is  dipped  in  it.  PAN- 
CAKE BATTER — Is  about  as  thin  as  cream. 

BATTER  PUDDINGS— About  5  oz.  flour  to 
each  quart  of  milk,  2  eggs,  spoonful  melted  lard  or 
butter  and  same. of  sugar  makes  a  batter  like  thin 
cream  which  sets  solid  when  baked.  BATTER  PUD- 
DING WITH  APPLES — Baked  apples  in  quarters  in  a 
pan,  batter  poured  over  and  baked  again.  BATTER 
PUDDING  WITH  RAISINS — Same  way  without  pre- 
vious cooking  of  fruit.  All  batter  puddings  have 
to  be  shallow  in  the  pan. 

BAVARIAN  CREAM— A  more  elaborate  kind 
of  blanc-mange,  made  of  whipped  cream  with  % 
oz.  gelatine,  dissolved,  to  each  quart;  variously 
flavored  and  combined.  (See  Eavarois.) 

BAVAROIS  (Fr.y^-Bavarian  cream.  BAVAROIS 
A  LA  PRASLIN — Bavarian  cream  flavored  with  al- 
mond nougat  pounded  to  a  paste  for  the  purpose. 
BAVAROIS  AUX  PISTACHES— Green  Bavarian  made 
with  pounded  pistachio  nuts  and  almonds,  colored 
with  spinach  juice.  BAVAROIS  AUX  FRUITS — Bav- 
arian served  with  compote  fruit.  BAVAROIS  AUX 
POMMES— Puree  of  apples  with  whipped  cream,  set 
with  gelatine,  flavored  with  maraschino.  BAVAROIS 
AUX  POIRES— With  pears  instead  of  apples.  BAVA- 
ROIS GLACE — Frozen  Bavarian. 

BAY  LEAF— Used  constantly,  but  in  small 
quantities  for  boiling  in  soups  and  sauces.  It  im- 
parts a  flavor  like  that  of  plum  kernels;  is  the  leaf  of 
a  species  of  laurel;  grows  wild  m  parts  of  the  South, 
plentiful  in  Florida.  Sold  in  a  dry  state  at  the  drug 
stores;  cost  very  little. 

BAY  RUM— Rum  flavored  with  bay  leaves.  Is 
one  of  the  principal  articles  of  manufacture  and  ex- 
port of  some  of  the  West  India  islands.  It  is  used 
in  various  drinks,  punches,  etc.,  and  as  a  toilet  re- 
quisite, particularly  for  the  hair.  Home-made  bay 
rum  is  prepared  by  procuring  rum  in  its  uncolored 
state;  to  every  gallon  100  bay  leaves,  freshly  gath- 
ered and  bruised  in  a  mortar,  are  added;  steeped  for 
10  days  with  occasional  agitation  of  the  cask ;  allowed 
to  settle,  and  drawn  off. 

BEANS — The  varieties  are  extremely  numerous 
in  this  country,  the  choice  sorts  being  Lima  beans 
shelled  green,  white  wax  stringless  beans  and  green 
string  beans  of  successive  varieties  from  early  to 


BEA 

late.  The  Lima  bean  does  not  grow  in  England  ex- 
cept as  a  climbing  plant  needing  a  hot  and  lengthy 
season  to  .nature  it.  Kidney  beans,  French  beans 
and  haricots  rerts  are  our  string  or  snap  beans,  the 
kidney  beans  being  the  dwarf  early  kinds.  French 
or  string  beans  are  kept  green  while  cooking  by 
being  plunged  into  boiling  water  containing  salt  and 
very  little  soda  or  borax;  boiled  with  the  lid  off, 
drained  as  soon  as  done  and  plunged  in  cold  water 
and  kept  till  wanted  to  warm  up  in  the  various 
sauces.  They  are  nearly  always  shred  lengthwise, 
not  snapped  across.  STRING  BEANS  A  LA  VERZ — 
Cooked  in  salted  water,  drained,  put  into  a  saucepan 
with  butter,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg;  white  sauce  and 
lemon  juice.  HARICOTS  VERTS  A  L'ANGLAISE — 
String  beans  boiled,  drained,  shaken  up  with  butter 
and  chopped  parsley.  HARICOTS  VERTS  SAUTES — 
Drained  and  simmered  in  butter,  salt,  pepper, 
parsley.  HARICOTS  VERTS  A  LA  MAITRE  D'HOTEL — 
Stewed  string  beans  in  white  parsley  sauce.  HARI- 
COTS VERTS  AU  BEURRE  NOIR — Butter  browned  by 
frying,  beans  saute  in  it,  salt,  pepper,  vinegar. 
HARICOTS  PANACHES  A  LA  MAITRE  D'HOTEL — 
String  beans  and  white  beans  mixed  in  white  pars- 
ley sauce.  HARICOTS  BLANCS  A  LA  MCELLE  Are 
navy  beans  seasoned  with  marrow.  HARICOTS 
.BLANCS  AU  BEURRE  DE  PIMENT— Navy  beans  with 
minced  red  pepper  in  butter.  HARICOTS  BLANCS  AU 
Jus — Are  served  with  gravy.  HARICOTS  ROUGES 

A  LA  BOURGUIGNONNE Are  red  (shelled)  beans, 

cooked  in  meat  stock  with  wine,  herbs  and  onions. 
CREAM  DE  HARICOTS  VERTS — Is  soup  made  by 
passing  cooked  string  beans  through  a  seive,  adding 
cream  and  soup  stock.  POTAGE  A  LA  CONDE — Is  a 
soup  of  white  beans.  STRING  BEANS  WITH  BACON — 
The  popular  style,  bacon  cut  dice  mixed  with  the 
beans. 

BEAR  MEAT— Is  eaten  by  nearly  all  people 
where  it  can  be  obtained,  although  viewed  with 
prejudice  by  many  who  meet  with  it  for  the  first 
time.  The  meat  is  like  pork,  but  darker;  generally 
it  is  very  fat.  When  objectionable  eating  it  is  the 
meat  of  an  old  animal.  The  "best  is  the  flesh  of  the 
bears  which  commit  depredations  in  the  cornfields 
of  sparsely  settled  regions,  where  they  grow  very 
fat  on  corn  and  fruit.  Young  black  and  brown 
bears  are  preferable  for  meat,  though  the  grizzly 
is  eaten  as  well,  but  has  a  rank  smell  and  flavor. 
The  butcher  in  any  western  town  can  sell  such  bear 
meat  as  he  may  secure  a  third  higher  price  than  beef; 
and  in  the  cities  as  a  curiosity  it  brings  a  high  figure. 
A  bear  weighing  450  Ibs.  was  cut  up  in  a  London 
restaurant  recently,  and  a  trade  journal  says:  "This 
fine  specimen  of  the  ursine  family  having  found  its 
way  to  the  kitchen,  the  bill  of  fare  duly  announced 
"jambon  d'ours  a  la  Litkuanienne  and  Pattes  d'ours 
(bear's  paws)  a  la  Muscovite.  We  dropped  in  for  a 
slice  of  roast  bear  ham,  and  found  it  decidedly 
'gamey,'  but  by  no  means  unpalatable,  the  flavor 
somewhat  resembling  that  of  venison.  Currant 
jelly,  by  the  way,  would  have  been  a  fitting  accom- 


248 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


EEC 

paniment.  "We  have  before  us  Christmas  bills  of 
fare  of  the  Gait  House,  Louisville,  and  Lindell  Ho- 
tel, St.  Louis,  and  under  the  head  of  game  we  find 
'  roast  cub  bear  with  chestnut'dressing '  and  '  saddle 
of  Rocky  Mountain  bear  with  currant  jelly '." 

BEARD  OF  SHELLFISH— The  mussel  has  a 
beard-like  filament  by  which  it  hang's  to  the  rocks, 
and  it  must  be  removed  after  cooking  before  Ihe  fish 
is  taken  from  the  shell.  The  oyster  has  no  such 
beard,  but  when  it  is  directed  to  beard  oysters  the 
part  intended  is  the  gristle  by  which  it  adheres  to 
its  shells.  Some,  however,  will  pull  off  the  fringe: 
which  are  the  oyster's  gills,  for  no  good  reason. 
But  the  gristly  part  is  really  dry  and  tasteless,  and 
when  choice  patties,  etc.,  are  to  be  made,  they  are 
the  better  if  that  part  is  removed. 

BEARNAISE  (a  la)— Dishes  so  entitled  have 
generally  bearnaise  sauce  served  with;  otherwise  it 
means  in  Swiss  .style. 

BEARNAISE  SAUCE— Named  from  King 
Henry  "  the  Bearnaise  "  or  his  Swiss  home.  Made 
of  4  tablespoons  white  wine  vinegar,  2  spoons  chop 
ped  shallots  stewed  in  it,  2  spoons  beef  extract,  6 
egg  yolks;  stirred  over  fire  till  begins  to  thicken,  re- 
moved to  side  and  J£  Ib.  butter  added,  little  at  a  time, 
with  occasional  drops  of  water;  strained,  and  chop- 
ped parsley,  chervil,  tarragon  and  red  pepper  added; 
served  with  fillet  steaks,  chops  and  fish.  It  is  bright 
yellow,  like  butter,  speckled  with  green. 

BEATEN  BISCUITS— Specialty  of  Virginia 
and  adjoining  states.  A  trade  journal,  remarking 
upon  the  difficulty  of  striking  anything  new  in  the 
biscuit  line,  says:  "The  widow  of  a  well-known 
Presbyterian  divine  has  had  a  bright,  original  idea, 
and  is  now  making  a  tidy  little  fortune  out  of  what 
are  called  beaten  biscuits.  These  biscuits  are  not 
exactly  novel;  they  are  just  such  dainty  cakes  as  the 
lady,  in  more  prosperous  and  happier  times,  was 
accustomed  to  prepare  with  her  own  domestic  appli- 
ances and  dignify  with  the  appellation  'home-baked.' 
The  dough  seems  to  have  been  'beaten'  or  whipped 
up  till  the  biscuits  turned  out  as  white  as  snow, 
with  a  delicious  golden  crust.  Many  of  the  wonder- 
fully clever  old  negress  cooks  in  Tennessee  and  Ken  - 
tucky  houses,  with  their  black  but  deft  fingers,  pre- 
pared just  such  biscuits  with  a  crispness,  a  color  and 
a  flavor  that  fairly  deserved  the  epithet  'divine.'  Mrs. 
Pratt's  beaten  biscuits  are,  however,  now  all  the 
rage  in  the  latitude  and  longitude  of  Louisville." 
These  biscuits  are  in  reality  a  hot  cracker;  the  dough 
has  the  same  ingredients  in  it  as  ordinary  soft  bis- 
cuits, but  not  so  much  powder,  and  needs  must  be 
made  up  with  milk.  The  special  quality  is  attained 
by  pounding  the  lump  of  dough  with  a  wooden 
maul;  a  biscuit  break  would  do  the  same. 

BECASSES  (Fr.)— Woodcocks. 

BECASSINES  (Fr.)— Snipes. 

BECHAMEL— The  Marquis  de  Bechamel,  the 
rich  financiere  and  great  epicure,  whose  cream 


EEC 

sauce  for  turbot  and  cod  has  been  extolled  with 
grandiloquence  by  a  score  historians  of  the  table, 
including  De  la  Reyniere  and  Ude.  The  Marquis 
was  at  one  time  mailre  d'l.otelto  one  of  the  French 
kings. 

BECHAMEL  SAUCE— Cream  sauce  made  with 
seasoned  chicken  broth  reduced  to  the  richness  of 
jelly,  with  mushroom  essence  added,  poured  to  the 
usual  white  roux  of  butter  and  flour  stirred  together 
over  the  fire,  and  an  equal  quantity  cream  added. 
FOWLS  IN  BECHAMEL,  and  all  meat  dishes  a  la 
Bechamel  are  simply  served  with  cream  sauce. 
CODFISH  AND  TUKBOT  A  LA  BECHAMEL — Are  in 
flakes  in  sauce  resembling  our  "picked-up  fish  in 
cream." 

BECHE  DE  MER— The  sea-slug  or  trepang  or 
sea  cucumber;  a  kind  of  sea  caterpillar  of  consider- 
able importance  to  the  Asiatics,  who  eat  it  and  trade 
in  it  dried.  It  is  from  8  to  15  inches  long  and 


abundant  on  the  Florida  reefs.  At  Key  West  an 
enterprising  yankee  went  into  the  business  of  mak- 
ing trepang  (dried  beche  de  mer)  a  few  years  ago, 
but  he  did  not  succeed  in  making  it  pay.  (See  Chi- 
nese Cookery.)  BECHE  DE  MER  SOUP — "With  refer- 
ence to  that  prime  Celestial  delicacy,  the  beche  de 
mer,  or  sea-slug,  it  may  be  of  interest  to  describe 
the  method  of  making  the  soup  as  I  have  seen  it 
prepared  by  several  good  Chinese  cooks.  For,  sav, 
ten  persons  make  soup  in  the  ordinary  way,  of  beef, 
etc.  Take  two  teat  fish  (sea-slugs)  of  good  quality, 
or  a  corresponding  quantity  of  black  or  red  fish, 
soak  in  wat^r  from  12  to  24  hours,  thoroughly  scrape 
and  clean  from  time  to  time,  changing  the  water  as 
required,  as  it  swells  greatly.  The  result  will  be  a 
glutinous-looking  mass,  like  lumps  of  jelly.  Boil 
separately  for  five  or  six  hours;  take  out  and  cut  or 
mince  up  very  fine.  About  a  quarter  of  an  hour  be- 
fore serving  add  this  to  the  soup  and  let  it  boil. 
There  must  not  be  any  vegetables.  Mince  or  egg 
balls  are  a  desirable  addition,  also  sherry,  etc.,  to 
taste.  This  gives  a  body  to  the  soup,  which,  if  left 
over,  will  be  almost  a  jelly  when  cold.  I  believe  if 
the  beche  de  mer  were  understood  it  would  be  used 
all  over  the  world,  especially  for  invalids,  as  it  is 
very  strengthening,  and,  although  anything  but 
nice-looking  in  its  dry  state,  it  is  a  very-  delicate 
article  of  diet  when  properly  treated.  It  makes  a 
splendid  addition  to  beef  tea,  and  I  would  call  the 
attention  of  medical  men  to  this  fact.  In  the  form 
of  soup  it  is  frequently  used  in  the  clubs  and  leading 
hotels  in  Melbourne  and  Sydney." 
BECFIGUE  (Fr.);  BECCAFICIO  (It.)— Fig- 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


249 


BEE 

picker;  a  little  bird  closely  resembling  the  American 
rice  bird,  considered  as  great  a  luxury  and  is  cooked 
in  the  same  way 

BEEFSTEAK  ORIGINATION— Brother  John 
athan  and  John  Bull  have  to  thank  Lucius  Piaucus, 
a  Roman  senator,  who  was  commanded  by  the  Em- 
peror Trajan  to  act  as  one  of  the  menial  sacrificers 
to  Jupiter.  In  the  process  of  flesh-roasting  one  of 
the  pieces  fell  off  the  altar,  and  in  order  to  restore  it 
Piaucus  burnt  his  ringers,  thrust  them  into  his 
mouth,  and  whilst  scorning  the  office  he  was  set  to 
perform,  made  up  for  his  coersion  by  devouring 
every  morsel;  he  thus  deluded  Trajan,  defrauded 
Jupiter,  and  invented  the  beefsteak. 

BEEF — The  progress  of  the  times,  rapid  transit, 
large  slaughtering  and  packing  operations,  whole- 
sale methods  of  preserving  meat  both  raw  and 
cooked,  the  utilization  of  every  part  for  its  best  pur- 
pose and  the  absence  of  the  old  methods  and  necess- 
ities of  pushing  off  parts  of  the  carcass  to  get  rid  of 
them,  and  also  the  higher  development  of  the  hotel 
and  restaurant  systems,  have  all  tended  to  make 
changes  in  the  methods  of  cutting  up  beef  and  less- 
ened the  significance  of  the  names  of  joints  and  cuts 
as  they  used  to  be.  The  fillet  is  now  a  separate  cut 
and  can  be  bought  of  the  packers  by  the  hundred  or 
thousand  pounds;  the  thin  flank  is  not  offered  for 
sale;  the  packers  put  it  to  good  use  as  canned  corn 
beef.  The  summer  hotel  can  have  rib  roasts,  first 
choice  or  second  choice  as  ordered  delivered  from 
the  packing  houses,  all  ready,  with  the  bones  re- 
moved, the  meat  coiled  up  and  bound  around,  skew- 
ered, ready  for  putting  in  the  oven,  and  not  onlv 
that,  but  can  have  them  sent  wrapped  in  paper  and 
in  a  frozen  condition  from  a  great  distance.  Loins 
of  beef,  either  short  or  long,  either  first  choice  meat 
or  seconds,  can  be  bought  close  trimmed  in  the  same 
accommodating  manner,  divested  of  the  kidney  fat, 
which  the  packers  use  profitably  in  the  form  of  but- 
terine,  and  without  any  surplus  bones,  for  the  pack- 
ers dispose  of  some  of  them  for  various  uses  in  the 
art.-,  and  the  rest  for  fertilizers.  COTES  DE  BCEUF 
A  LA  BROCHE— Roast  ribs  of  beef.  ALOYAU  A  LA 
BKOCHE — Roast  sirloin  of  beef.  ALOYAU  DE  BCEUF 
A  I.A  PROVENCALS— Sirloin  larded,  spread  with  a 
high-flavored  stuffing  of  marrow,  anchovies,  garlic, 
etc.;  roasted  and  served  with  piquante  sauce. 
ALOYAU  BRAISE  A  LA  GODARD— Top  sirloin  gar- 
nished with  slices  of  sweetbreads,  mushrooms, 
truffles,  etc.,  in  the  reduced  wine  braise  of  the  beef. 
ALOYAU  BRAISE  A  LA  R"OYALE— Top  sirloin  larded 
and  braised.  A  LA  PRINTANIERE  —  Served  with 
young  vegetables.  A  LA  PORTUGAISE  —  With 
glazed  onions  and  sauce.  FILET  DE  BCEUF  AU  Jus 
D'ORAXGE — The  tenderloin  served  like  duck  with 
orange  sauce.  FILET  DE  BCEUF  A  LA  XAPOLITAINE — 
Larded,  marinaded,  braised,  served  with  Xapoli- 
taine  sauce,  of  horse-radish,  ham,  wine,  jelly  and 
brown  gravy.  FILET  DE  BCEUF  A  LA  BOIIEMIENNE— 
Tenderloin  larded,  marinaded  by  steeping  in  oil 


BEE 

with  vegetables  and  aromatics,  braised  or  roasted, 
served  with  fried  potatoes,  olives,  pickled  mush- 
rooms and  onions  in  poivrade  sauce.    ROUELLE  DE 
BCEUF  AU  FOUR — Round  of  beef  spiced  and  baked 
with  water  and  fat  in  a  covered  pot.     Noix  DE 
BCEUF  BRAISEE— Chumps  of  beef  braised.     PIECE 
DE  B<EUF  GARNIE  A  LA  FLAMANDE— Is  salted  brisket 
boiled  and  served  with  Brussels  sprouts.    PIECE  DE 
BCEUF   A  LA  ST.  FLORENTIN — Top  sirloin  rolled, 
roasted,  seived  with  Robert  sauce.   COTES  DE  BCEUF 
BRAISEES  A  LA  PUREE  DE  TOMATOES— Beef  with 
tomato  sauce.    BCEUF  HOLLANDAISE — Is   smoked 
beef  boiled.     ROSBIF  A  L'ANGLAISE— Roast  beef 
with  Yorkshire  pudding  and  horse-radish.     PATE 
DE  BCEUF  AUX  POMMES  DE  TERRE — A  pie  of  minced 
beef  and  mashed  potatoes  with  a  crust  of  mashed 
potatoes.    BIFTECK  A  LA  FRANCAISE — Broiled  steak 
with  French  fried  potatoes.    PORTERHOUSE  OR  FIL- 
I.ET  STEAK  A  LA  BEARNAISE— Steak  broiled  and 
served  with  Bearnaise  sauce  over  or  around.    TEN- 
DERLOIN STEAK  A   L'HOTELIERE— Steak  fried  in 
butter,  gravy  made  in  the  pan  with  cream  sauce  and 
essence  of  beef.  TENDERLOIN  STEAK  WITH  OLIVES — 
Steak  fried  in  oil,  gravy  made  in  the  pan  with  espa- 
gnole  and  wine;  stoned  olives  added.    TENDERLOIN 
(OR  FILLET)  STEAK  WITH  MUSHROOMS — Steak  fried 
in  butter  or  beef  fat,  gravy  made  in  the  same  pan  of 
espagnole  with  Madeira  and  mushrooms.  TENDER- 
LOIN   (FILLET)   STEAK   A   LA   MIRABEAU  —  Steak 
broiled,  basted  with  oil,  Mirabeau  sauce  of  garlic, 
white  sauce,  parsley,  lemon  and  beef  extract.    FILET 
DE  BCEUF  A  LA  MAITRE  D'HOTEL — Tenderloin  steak 
with  butter,  mixed  with  chopped  parsley,  and  lemon 
juice  spread  over  it;  fried  potatoes  around.     FILET 
DE  BCEUF  A  LA  CHATEAUBRIAND — Thick  fillet  steaks 
with  extracts  of  beef,  butter,  parsley  and  lemon  for 
sauce.   FILET  DE  BCEUF  A  L'ITALIENNE— Thin  steaks 
floured  and  fried  brown,  served  in  brown  Italian 
sauce.  ESCALOPES  DE  BCEUF  A  LA  REFORMS  (club) — 
Thin  tenderloin  steaks,  each  one  between  two  slices 
of  bacon,  breaded,  with  chopped  ham  mixed  with 
the  bread  crumbs,  and  fried;  served  with   reform 
sauce  of  poivrade  and  harvey  sauces,  port  wine  and 
currant  jelly.  ESCALOPES  DE  BCEUF  A  LA  NEMOURS — 
Thin  fillet  steaks  covered  with  forcemeat  and  slices 
of  ham,  put  together  in  pairs,  breaded  and  fried; 
served  with  white  sauce.     ESCALOPES  DE  FILET  DE 
BCEUF  A  L'OSTENDE — Spread  with  thick  white  sauce 
containing  chopped  oysters  and  onions,   in   pairs, 
breaded  and  fried;  brown  sauce.     GRENADINE  DE 
FILET  DE  BCEUF  A  LA  FINANCIERS— Thin  tenderloin 
steaks  larded,  cooked  in  mirepoix  and  served  in  the 
sauce  with  financiere  garnish.    TOURNEDOS  A  LA 
SAUCE  POIVRADE — Slices  of  cooked  fillet  dressed  in 
a  crown  alternately  with  fried  slices  of  bread  of  the 
same  size;  poivrade  sauce  in  the  center.     ENTRE- 
COTES  DE  BCEUF  A  LA  BoRDELAiSE— Thick  rib  steaks 
broiled;  bordelaise  sauce  and  pieces  of  beef  marrow. 
BCEUF  EN  SAUCISSONS— Very  thin    slices    of  beef 
rolled  up  like  sausages  with  forcemeat  inside,  baked 
in  a  covered  pan ;  served  with  the  sauce.   Other  cuts 


250 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


BEE 

and  different  parts  and  ways  of  cooking  may  be 
found  under  the  proper  letters.  BEEF  RISSOLES — 
Minced  beef,  either  raw  or  cooked,  or  both  mixed; 
with  sausage  seasonings  and  fat,  or  crumb  of  bread 
to  make  it  cohesive,  is  rolled  into  sausage  shapes 
and  then  rolled  up  in  a  thin  covering  of  pie  paste, 
egged  over  and  baked. 

BEEF  SOUPS— Several  varieties  having  beef 
for  the  stock  or  principal  ingredient,  or  having  dice- 
cut  beef  in  them. 

BEEFSTEAK  PUDDING— A  boiled  meat  pie. 
The  English  make  puddings  of  snipes,  partridges, 
and  every  kind  of  meat  by  lining  a  deep  bowl  or 
mould  with  suet  short  paste,  placing  in  the  beef- 
steak or  birds  with  seasoning  additions  of  mush- 
rooms, onions,  cayenne,  salt,  aromatics,  sauce  and 
water;  cover  the  top  with  a  sheet  of  paste;  tie  a 
cloth  over  and  boil  for  3  or  4  hours. 

BEEFSTEAK  PIE— Similar  to  beefsteak  pud- 
ding, baked.  SAUCISSON  BEEFSTEAK  PIE — Specialty 
of  a  London  restaurant.  Started  like  the  French 
baeuf  en  saucissons  named  above.  Chopped  cooked 
game  or  other  meat  seasoned  with  aromatics,  rolled 
up  in  shavings  of  steak  to  size  of  corks;  these  placed 
in  layers  in  deep  pie  dish  with  mushrooms,  onions, 
etc.,  between.  Mussel  or  oyster  liquor  for  special 
seasoning;  gravy  added,  top  crust  and  baked. 

BEEF  TEA— Is  made  best  of  minced  raw  beef 
in  cold  water  set  in  a  jar  or  other  vessel  surrounded 
by  boiling  water,  but  never  allowed  to  boil,  which 
would  coagulate  the  albumen  and  make  the  liquor 
less  nutritious.  Some  physicians  recommend  a  raw 
beef  tea,  the  beef  scraped  into  cold  water  only. 
Liebigs'  extract  of  meat  is  beef  tea  in  a  concentrated 
form,  only  needs  diluting  to  be  ready  for  use. 

BEEF  TEA  JELLY— Strong  beef  tea  or  extract, 
of  meat  with  3  oz.  of  starch  or  4  oz.  of  arrowroot 
stirred  in  at  boiling  point;  taken  off  the  fire  and 
made  cold.  For  invalids  to  change  from  beef  tea. 

BEEF  A  LA  MODE— Is  not  the  same  as  the  a 
la  mode  beef  of  a  former  page.  This,  either  larded 
through  with  strips  of  fat  bacon  or  has  such  strips 
rolled  up  in  it,  is  braised  with  herbs  and  wine  and 
cut  in  slices  across  the  larding  when  done.  There 
are  at  least  three  or  four  styles  of  the  dish,  depend- 
ing only  upon  what  is  served  with  it;  as  Allemande, 
with  raisin  sauce;  Anglaise,  with  vegetables;  Fran- 
caise,  with  a  ragout  of  mushrooms  and  quenelles  in 
wine  sauce. 

BEEF,  THE  "BAROX"  OF— "  In  accordance 
with  the  custom  the  Queen's  table  was  furnished  at 
Christmas  with  a  splendid  'baron'  of  beef,  weigh- 
ing about  300  Ibs.,  which  was  flanked  on  either  side 
by  a  boar's  head  and  a  woodcock  pie.  The  huge 
joint,  as  is  customary,  was  roasted  at  Windsor 
Castle  and  thence  despatched  to  Osborne.  By  the 
way,  why  the  'baron'  of  beef  has  so  lordly  a  title  is 
not  quite  clear.  As  the  joint  consists  of  the  beast's 
two  sirloins — or  'Sir  Loins,"  as  some  people  spell 


BEE 

the  word — not  cut  asunder,  the  name  may  possibly 
have  been  given  on  the  principle  that  ore  baron  is 
equal  to  two  knights." 

BEEF  EATERS— "Beef  and  mutton  was  the 
diet  that  bred  that  hardy  race  of  mortals  who  won 
the  fields  of  Cressy  and  Agincourt.  I  need  not  get 
up  so  far  as  the  history  of  Guy,  Earl  of  Warwick, 
who  is  well  known  to  have  eaten  up  a  dun  cow  of 
his  own  killing.  The  renowned  king  Arthur  is 
generally  looked  upon  as  the  first  who  ever  sat 
down  to  a  whole  roasted  ox,  which  was  certainly 
the  best  way  to  preserve  the  gravy;  and  it  is  further 
added  that  he  and  his  knights  sat  about  it  at  his 
round  table,  and  usually  consumed  it  to  the  very 
bones  before  they  would  enter  'upon  debate  of 
moment." 

BEEFSTEAK,  HO\V  TO  COOK— It  requires 
courage  in  the  light  of  our  knowledge  and  almost 
daily  experience  for  one  to  assert  that  there  is  no 
reason  why  every  beefsteak  that  is  put  on  the  table 
should  not,  so  far  as  cooking  is  concerned,  approach 
the  ideal  steak.  "Subscriber"  writes  from  far 
Louisiana  to  know  how  his  cook  may  be  instructed 
to  give  him  a  good  beefsteak.  A  member  of  my 
own  family  has  brought  the  cooking  of  this  article 
of  food  to  what  we  consider  perfection.  The  first 
requirement  is  not  so  much  a  tender  and  juicy  steak, 
though  this  is  always  to  be  devoutly  desired,  but  a 
glowing  bed  of  coals,  a  wire  grid-iron — a  stout  one, 
with  good -sized  wires— a  double  one,  so  that  vou 
can  turn  the  steak  without  touching  it  The  steak 
should  not  be  pounded;  only  in  extreme  cases,  when 
it  is  cut  too  thick  and  is  "stringy."  Attempt  noth- 
ing else  when  cooking  the  steak;  have  everything 
else  ready  for  the  table;  the  potatoes  and  vegetables 
all  in  their  respective  dishes  in  the  warming  closet 
or  oven,  with  the  door  left  open  a  little  way.  From 
ten  minutes  onward  is  needed  to  cook  the  steak. 
The  time  must  depend  on  the  size,  and  you  can  eas- 
ily tell  by  the  color  of  the  gravy  which  runs  from 
the  steak,  when  gently  pressed  with  a  knife,  as  to 
its  condition.  If  the  master  of  the  house  likes  it 
"rare  done,"  when  there  is  a  suspicion  of  brown 
gravy  with  the  red,  it  will  be  safe  to  infer  that  it  is 
done  enough  for  him ;  if,  as  is  generally  the  case, 
the  next  stage  is  the  favorite  one,  remove  the  steak 
from  the  grid-iron  the  instant  the  gravy  is  wholly 
of  a  light  brown.  Remove  it  to  a  hot  platter,  pepper 
and  salt  to  your  taste,  put  on  small  lumps  of  butter, 
and  then  for  two  brief  moments  cover  it  with  a  hot 
plate,  the  two  moments  being  sufficient  to  carry  it  to 
the  table.  One  absolutely  essential  factor  in  the  pre- 
paration of  good  beefsteak  is  that  it  must  be  served 
at  once.  If  "Subscriber"  can  impress  it  upon  his 
cook  that  she  is  not  to  let  the  steak  stand  and  steam 
while  she  is  doing  other  things,  he  will  be  likely  to- 
receive  his  reward  for  so  doing.  If  he  can  inspire 
his  cook  with  a  desire  to  excel,  if  he  can  induce  her 
to  believe  that  it  is  worth  while  to  take  pains,  he 
will  do  an  even  more  important  work  than  to  pro- 
duce a  delicious  steak.  I  often  think  that  a  good 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


251 


BEE 

cook  must  belong  to  one  or  two  orders  —she  must 
be  a  Christian  of  great  conscientiousness,  or  a  per- 
son of  abundant  culture,  whose  sole  delight  is  to  do 
well  and  with  thought  whatever  is  undertaken. 
THE  SECRET  OF  GRILLING — While  busy  at  the  grill, 
showing  everyone  present  how  it  is  done  to  a  turn, 
the  following  query  has  often  been  put  to  the 
writer:  "Will  you  impart  the  secret  how  to  grill? 
for  my  cook  is  a  very  good  cook,  but  she  cannot 
produce  me  a  satisfactory  chop  or  steak."  Of 
course,  every  cook  in  a  private  family  does  not  pre- 
fer the  frying-pan  to  the  grid-iron,  because  it  is 
more  convenient.  Oh  no!  I  am  not  going  to  say 
anything  of  the  kind.  Some  of*  my  querists  have 
gone  so  far  as  to  have  an  apparatus  fitted  up  after 
the  fashion  of  the  well-known  type  of  the  public 
grill,  but  with  no  better  result.  What  is  to  be  done  ? 
I  will  tell  you.  The  operation  is  perfection,  for  it 
is  simplicity  itself,  and  simplicity  is  perfection. 
"Turn,  turn,  turn  away;  that's  it,  boy"  (for  I  was  a 
boy  once);  "you  cannot  turn  them  too  often,"  so 
said  my  tutor,  old  Tom  Brown,  the  celebrated  grill 
manipulator  of  the  then  universally  known  Joe's 
Chop  House,  of  Finch  Lane.  It  is  impossible  to 
give  any  stated  time  for  grilling  anything;  there  is 
but  one  method  of  judging  when  the  articles  are 
properly  cooked,  that  is,  by  bringing  into  play  what 
the  illusionist  finds  indispensable,  viz.:  the  sense  of 
touch.  Strange  as  it  may  appear,  these  two  arts  go 
readily  hand  in  hand.  Now,  reader,  all  you  have 
to  do  is  to  practise. 

BEER  SOUP;  BIER  SUPPE  (Ger.)  —  (/)-A 
traveler,  who  says  he  has  often  partaken  of  it  in 
country  houses  and  at  the  beer  houses  in  the  cities, 
and  that  it  is  eaten  cold,  at  least  in  summer,  describes 
it  as  half  beer,  half  water,  with  bread  crumbs,  cur- 
rants and  lemon  peel  stirred  up  in  it.  (2)- A  hot 
beer  soup,  called  German,  is  the  same  as  English  ale 
posset,  being  2  qts.  mild  beer  simmered  with  sugar 
snd  spices  and  poured  upon  6  beaten  eggs  and  J£ 
pint  cream;  all  whisked  till  frothy  and  poured  upon 
a  slice  of  toast  in  a  bowl.  (j)-Bread  and  caraway 
seeds  boiled  in  mild  beer  and  poured  upon  beaten 
eggs;  hot  enough  to  thicken,  but  not  to  curdle 
them. 

BEIGNET  (Fr.)— Fritter.  BEIGNETS  SOUFFLES- 
Fritters  which  puff  up  hollow;  also  called  aigrettes; 
they  are  a  la  vanille  when  flavored.  BEIGNETS  A  LA 
DOMINIQUE— Savory;  made  of  a  delicate  salpicon  or 
mince  of  chicken,  with  aromatic  seasoning  in  flat- 
tened balls,  dipped  in  oil -and- wine  fritter  batter  and 
fried;  served  with  chopped  truffle  and  tongue  in 
glaze.  BEIGNETS  D'ABRICOTS  A  LA  CHARTRES— 
Apricot  fritters.  BEIGNETS  AUX  FLEURS  D'ORANGE- 
Flavored  with  orange  flower  water.  BEIGNETS  EN 
SURPRISE— Apples  partly  hollowed,  the  stalks  left 
on,  soaked  in  brandy,  filled  with  apricot  jam,  dipped 
in  batter  and  fried.  BEIGNETS  AU  MAIZENA — Cus- 
tard or  cream  fritters  made  with  corn  starch. 
BEIGNETS  A  LA  PORTUGAISE— Rice  croquettes  with 
marmalade  in  the  center.  BEIGNETS  AUX  CON- 


BER 

FITURES — Fritters  served  with  preserve.  BEIGNETS 
A  L'ALLEMANDE — Also  called  Bismarck's;  a.  spoon- 
ful of  jam  between  two  thin  flats  of  light  dough; 
allowed  to  rise,  then  fried.  BEIGNETS  A  LA  PRUS- 
SIENNE— Apple  turnovers  (winch  see)  fried  instead 
of  baked.  BEIGNETS  DE  FLEURS  DE  SUREAU — 
Fritters  of  sprigs  of  elder  flowers.  BEIGNETS 
D'ORANGES — Orange  fritters.  BEIGNETS  DE  CIN- 
TRA — Thin  round  .slices  of  cake  soaked  in  cream, 
flavored  with  brandy,  floured  and  fried.  BEIGNETS 
A  LA  CREME — Custard  fritters;  pieces  of  custard 
made  with  flour  or  starch  firm  enough  to  cut  when 
cold,  dipp3d  in  batter  and  fried.  BEIGNETS  AUX 
CONFITURES — Marmalade  fritters;  thin  sandwiches 
of  cake  and  jam  dipped  in  batter  and  fried.  BEIGNETS 
A  LA  CHANTILLY — Cream  cheese  fritters,  made  of 
sweet  cream  curd,  flour,  eggs,  sugar  and  wine,  drop- 
ped by  small  spoonfuls  in  hot  lard  and  fried.  BEIG- 
NETS D'ABRICOTS  A  L'EAU  DE  VIE — Apricots  and 
brandied  bread  in  batter.  BEIGNETS  DE  PECHES  A 
LA  ROYAL — Peach  fritters.  BEIGNETS  DE  FRAISES 
A  LA  DAUPHINE — Strawberry  fritters. 

BENGAL  CHUTNEY— A  sour-sweet-savory 
jam,  used  as  a  relish  with  meat,  game,  etc. ;  made  of  i 
Ib.  each  tamarinds,  sultana  raisins,  tomatoes,  apples, 
ginger,  moist  sugar;  J£  Ib.  red  chillies;  J£  Ib.  each 
garlic  and  onions;  4  qts.  strong  vinegar;  rind  and 
juice  8  lemons;  ingredients  pulped  or  minced. 
Kept  a  month  in  warm  place  to  ferment;  tied  down 
in  small  jars;  served  sometimes  with  curried  fish. 
(See  Indian  chutney .) 

BERKELEY  PUDDING  (Fr.-Eng.  specialty.)— 
A  bread-suet  pudding  boiled  in  a  mould;  made  of  i 
Ib.  bread  crumbs,  i  Ib.  suet,  i  Ib.  moist  sugar,  4  eggs, 
i  glass  ale,  juice  2  lemons.  Boiled  2  hours;  served 
with  a  sabayon  sauce. 

BEETS — Best  for  table  are  the  blood  beets;  sugar 
beets,  nearly  white  inside,  are  as  good  for  serving 
in  sauce  hot,  not  so  good  for  ornamental  purposes. 
Favorite  ways  of  using  them :  BEETS  IN  BUTTER — 
Young  garden  beets  boiled  quite  tender  in  their 
skins,  peeled,  sliced;  salt  and  plain  butter.  BEETS 
IN  SAUCE — Butter  sauce  with  vinegar  in  it;  little 
sugar  and  salt.  BEETS  IN  VINEGAR — Cold  blood - 
beets  sliced  and  covered  with  vinegar;  called  also 
pickled  beets.  Will  keep  a  week  if  cool.  BETTE- 
RAVES  A  LA  CREME— Cut  up  in  dice  in  a  white 
sauce.  BETTERAVES  A  LA  POITEVINE — Cut  in  slices 
like  sections  of  an  orange;  after  boiling,  served  in 
brown  sauce  with  onions  and  spices.  BETTEKAVES 
A  LA  CHARTREUSE— Yellow  beets  sliced  after  boil- 
ing, a  slice  of  onion  between  two  slices  of  beets; 
dipped  in  batter  and  fried.  BEET  SOUP  (Seebarszez.) 
BEETS  JN  SALADS  (See  salads.)  Beets  are  largely 
used  for  decorating  dishes. 

BERLINGOTS  DE  ROUEN  (Fr.);  BERLIN- 
GOZZI  (It.)— Stick  candy. 

BERLIN  PANCAKES  (Ger.:  Berlinen  Pfan,i- 
kuc/ien) — Are  known  in  this  country  as  Bismarks ; 
in  France  as  Beignets  a  I'Altemaiide.  They  are 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


BET 

rich  yeast-raised  doughnuts,  having  a  spoonful  of 
preserve  inside;  are  nearly  round.  Like  all  dough- 
nuts they  are  fried  in  lard  and  rolled  in  sugar  when 
done.  In  Poland  they  have  the  same  by  the  name  of 

P&utit. 

BETTER AVE  (Fr.)- Beetroot;  beets. 

BEUKRE  (Fr.)— Butter.  BEURKE  n'ANCiiois— 
Anchovy  butter.  BEURRE  DE  HOMARD — Lobster 
butter. 

BIBIXCA  DOSEE— This  is  the  name  of  a  fam  - 
ous  Portuguese  pudding,  well  worthy  of  a  trial  by 
way  of  variety.  Scrape  two  cocoanuts  finely;  pour 
boiling  water  thereon,  sufficient  to  yield  a  breakfast- 
cupful  of  strong  infusion,  after  soaking  for  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour,  and  set  it  aside.  Prepare  a  syrup 
from  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar;  mix  into 
this  half  a  pound  of  rice  flour  or  rizine,  finely  sifted, 
and  the  cocoanut  infusion.  Boil  over  a  brisk  fire 
with  constant  stirring,  until  it  thickens.  Pour  into 
a  buttered  dish,  and  bake  to  a  light-brown  color. — 
Note — There  must  be  3  pints  of  liquid  to  that  amount 
of  rice  flour. 

BIGAR  ADE  — Name  of  an  orange.  Orange  sauce 
for  ducks,  etc.,  made  by  cutting  the  rind  of  sour 
oranges  in  fine  shreds,  parboiling,  adding  them  and 
the  juice  to  brown  sauce  or  gravy. 

BIJOUTIER  (Fr.)— Name  facetiously  applied  to 
dealers  who  gather  up  cooked  food  from  the  clubs 
and  private  houses  for  re-sale.  The  word  legit- 
imately means  jeweler.  The  bijoutier  pays  so  much 
a  month  to  the  chefs,  basing  his  calculations  after  a 
week's  trial,  and  sells  the  broken  victuals  in  as- 
sorted platefuls  in  the  public  market. 

BIRD  PEPPER— The  small  chilies  or  capsicums 
of  which  ground  cayenne  is  made. 

BIRDS'  XEST  SOUP— The  birds'  nests  from 
which  the  far-famed  soup  is  made  are  built  by  a 
species  of  swallow  which  abound  on  the  coast  of 
Java,  Ceylon  and  Borneo,  and  practically  consists  of 
a  gelatinous  substance  obtained  from  marine  plants. 
The  nests  are  boiled  either  in  chicken  broth  or  in 
milk,  with  almonds.  The  result  very  much  resem- 
bles vermicelli  soup,  but  is  more  costly. 

BISCUITS — Crackers  in  England  and  France  are 
called  biscuits;  in  the  United  States  they  are  a  short- 
ened kind  of  rolls  or  breakfast -bread,  usually  eaten 
warm ;  name  from  two  words  signifying  twice  baked, 
i.  e.,  dry.  Made  of  flour— all  or  any  kind — with  bak- 
ing powder,  salt  and  shortening,  or  with  flour,  but- 
termilk, salt  and  soda.  Biscuits  are  the  oldest  form 
of  bread.  At  what  time  of  man's  history  the  light- 
ening of  dough  by  fermentation  was  first  adopted  no 
one,  of  course,  knows.  It  is,  however,  certain  that 
cakes  made  of  nothing  but  meal  and  water, is  much 
older.  Fragments  of  unfermented  cakes  were  dis- 
covered in  the  Swiss  lake  dwellings  which  belong 
to  the  neolithic  age — an  age  dating  back  far  beyond 
the  received  age  of  the  world.  This  is  the  earliest 
instance  of  biscuits  as  yet  discovered,  for  biscuits 
are  merely  unfermented  bread. 


BLA 

BISCUITS  DE  RHEIMS  -  French  specialty- 
eaten  with  champagne.  It  is  a  variation  of  lady  fin- 
gers or  Xaples  biscuits  dried.  Made  by  adding  and 
beating  4  eggs  to  12  ounces  sugar,  making  warm 
while  beating;  then  cool;  8oz.  flour,  I  oz.  arrowroot, 
lemon  rind  for  flavor;  baked  like  finger  sponge  cakes; 
dry  in  slow  oven. 

BISCUIT  GLACE — Has  two  meanings  which 
causes  mistakes.  (/)- Savoy  or  sponge  cake  iced  or 
glazed  with  sugar  is  a  biscuit  de  saroie  glace.  (2)- 
Ice  cream  of  any  kind  in  a  mould;  especially  small 
biscuits  or  cakes  of  ice  cream  in  paper  cases  are 
meant,  as  they  were  the  original  "cakes  of  ice" — 
biscuits  places. 

BISQUE— A  paste  or  puree.  POTAGE  BISQUE  AU 
Riz  is  fish  soup  with  crayfish  tails  and  rice.  BISQUE 
OF  CRAYFISH — Soup  of  rice  and  crayfish,  in  veal 
broth;  the  crayfish  partly  fried  with  butter,  onion, 
carrots,  salt  pork;  broth  added,  boiled  an  hour;  tails 
of  crayfish  saved,  boiled  rice  and  crayfish  hulls 
pounded  through  a  strainer  and  added  to  the  soup 
with  crayfish  tails  and  parsley.  This  is  the  soup 
which  some  humanitarians  of  northern  France 
moved  against  because  the  crayfish  are  thrown  into 
the  hot  fry  alive.  BISQUE  OF  LOBSTER — Soup  of 
lobster  and  rice;  first  fried,  then  boiled  and  pounded 
lobster  meat  and  shell,  with  rice,  passed  through 
seive,  and  soup  thickened  with  it;  finished  wich  but- 
ter, sherry  and  squares  of  fried  bread.  BISQUE  OF 
CRABS — Made  same  as  bisque  of  lobster ;  crabs  boiled 
first,  cut  up,  fried  with  onions,  celery,  salt  pork, 
stock  added;  boiled  an  hour;  rice  boiled,  and  puree 
of  rice  and  crabs  thickens  soup;  sherry,  etc.,  tofinish. 
BISQUE  OF  OYSTERS— A  white  soup  like  cream 
sauce,  the  oysters  after  boiling  rubbed  through  a 
seive,  milk  and  cream  with  the  broth  and  oyster 
liquor,  and  butter  roux  to  thicken;  slight  flavoring  of 
bay  leaf  and  mace.  BISQUE  OF  PLOVER  A  LA  ROS- 
SINI— Plovers  braised  in  port  wine  stock  an  hour, 
the  meat  then  pounded  fine  and  passed  through  seive. 
Semolina  boiled  in  broth,  also  passed  through  seive, 
and  plover  stock  thickened  with  them.  Served  with 
grisini  bread.  (See tfrisiui.)  BISQUE  OF  PARTRIDGE 
A  LA  DAUPHINE — The  meat  of  roast  partridges, 
chestnuts  and  white  bread  made  into  a  puree  with 
broth  and  port  wine. 

BISQUE  ICES — Ice  creams  containing  a  paste, 
not  too  finely  strained — of  fruit,  preserved  ginger, 
chestnuts,  walnuts,  almonds  and  the  like  are  named 
accordingly,  as  BISQUE  OF  PINEAPPLE,  made  by 
adding  to  ice  cream  some  pounded,  preserved  or 
stewed  pineapple. 

BLACKBERRY  —  Uses  of:  DRIED  BLACK- 
BERRIES— One  bushel  of  fruit  makes  10  pounds 
dried.  BLACKBERRY  PIES — Great  favorite  in  the 
season.  (/)-Made  by  heaping  the  berries  raw  in  a 
pie  crust  sugaring,  and  covering  same  as  apple  pies. 
(a)-Berries  and  thin-sliced  apples  mixed  together, 
sugared,  covered  and  baked  slowly.  (^-Black- 
berries stewed,  or  taken  from  cans,  and  little  sugar 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


253 


BLA 

added;  baked  with  top  crust,  or  in  open  pies,  with 
strips  over.  (^)-Pies,  English  style,  in  deep  earthen- 
ware dishes,  a  tea  cup  inverted  in  the  dish;  all 
around  filled  with  berries  and  sugar,  short  crust;  the 
cup  draws  in  the  juice  and  is  found  to  be  full  when 
lifted,  and  besides  it  holds  up  the  center  of  the  crust. 
BLACKBERRY  ROLY-POLY— Short  paste  or  biscuit 
dough  rolled  thin,  covered  with  berries  or  with 
blackberry  jam,  rolled  up  in  a  cloth  (like  a  huge  bo- 
logna), ends  and  middle  secured,  boiled  an  hour  or 
more;  may  be  baked  as  well;  served  with  butter  and 
sugar.  BLACKBERRY  SHORTCAKE — Same  as  straw- 
berry, raspberry,  etc.  BLACKBERRY  MERINGUE — 
Ripe  berries  with  sugar  spread  upon  a  thin  sheet  of 
cake,  meringue  or  frosting,  same  as  for  lemon  pies, 
spread  upon  the  berries;  baked  a  little;  cut  out  in 
squares.  BLACKBERRY  COBBLER— Same  as  cherry, 
peach,  etc.  BLACKBERRY  DUMPLINGS — Half  a  cup 
of  berries  inclosed  in  paste,  like  apple  dumplings. 
BLACKBERRY  PUDDING— Berries  mixed  in  bread 
puddings,  boiled  or  baked  same  as  raisins  are  used. 
BLACKBERRY  BATTER  PUDDINGS — Batter  thin  in  a 
baking  pan,  like  Yorkshire  pudding;  berries  strewed 
over  the  surface;  baked.  BLACKBERRY  SYKUP  AND 
CoRDiAi.-{Sef  drinks.)  BLACKBERRY  WINE-^AV^ 
•wines.)  BLACKBERRIES  AS  TABLE  FRUIT — Washed 
and  drained,  served  in  fruit  saucers  or  glass  dishes 
with  broken  ice  scattered  over  the  top,  ice  only 
placed  at  the  time  of  serving.  Powdered  sugar 
served  separate. 

BLACK-COCK  —  Kind  of  grouse— Scotch  and 
English — not  very  highly  esteemed  for  table;  are 
hung  a  long  time  to  make  them  tender;  roasted  and 
stewed  with  wine  in  the  sauce.  COQS  DE  BRUYERE 
A  LA  ROYALE — Black-cocks  larded,  braised,  and 
served  with  a  white  sauce  and  small  rissoles  of  game. 
Coos  DE  BRUYERE  A  LA  ROB  ROY — Black-cock 
stuffed,  roasted  with  sprigs  of  heather  and  whisky, 
and  served  with  butter  sauce. 

BLACKFISH — A  black  perch,  esteemed  as  a  pan 
fish,  fairly  plentiful  in  the  southern  markets.  Smaller 
and  blacker  than  the  black  bass;  flesh  is  much  like  it. 

BLACK  STRAP— A  tipple  of  a  mixture  of  ruin 
and  molasses;  a  souvenir  of  old  colonial  days  and  of 
the  hard  cider  campaign. 

BLACK  PUDDINGS  (Bonding  l\Toir)—A.  kind 
of  sausage  of  pig's  blood  mixed  with  dice-cut  pieces 
of  pork  fat,  onions  and  sometimes  a  little  cooked 
barley  or  rice;  all  seasoned  with  aromatic  salt,  filled 
into  skins  and  boiled.  They  are  eaten  either  cold  or 
split  lengthwise,  and  broiled  or  fried.  They  are,  or 
used  to  be,  universally  eaten  on  Christmas  Eve  by 
the  French  middle  classes.  The  Flemish  way  is  to 
eat  them  with  baked  apples.  Edmond  About  used 
to  tell  of  a  good  monk  who  once  indulged  in  a  ham 
omelette  on  a  Friday,  when  a  thunder  storm  came 
on,  and  he  threw  the  uncanonical  delicacy  out  of  the 
window,  murmuring:  "All  this  noise  about  an  om- 
elette! "  And  of  another,  being  rebuked  for  eating 


BLU 

a  black  pudding  on  Good  Friday,  replied  with: 
"  Why  not?  The  pudding  is  deep  mourning!  " 

BLANCHAILLES— The  French  coined  word  for 
that  small  minnow-like  fish,  the  fairfous  English 
whitebait. 

BLANCH— To  scald.  It  means  to  whiten,  liter- 
ally. To  blanch  almonds  is  to  scald  and  peel  them; 
to  blanch  parsley,  chives,  shallots  and  herbs  is  to 
plunge  them  a  minute  in  boiling  water  that  they  may 
not  go  into  the  sauce  raw. 

BLANC  MANGE— Literally  white-food.  Cream 
or  milk  set  with  gelatine,  an  ounce  to  a  quart,  sweet- 
ened and  flavored.  When  quitecold  it  is  solid  enough 
to  be  turned  out  of  a  mould  and  keep  its  shape  on  the 
table. 

BLANQUETTE— A  sort  of  general  designation 
for  any  dish  of  white  meat  having  a  white  or  creamy 
sauce  and  no  other  special  flavoring  or  character- 
istic. There  are  blanquettes  of  veal,  lamb,  fowl 
and  quail,  but  not  of  beef  or  dark  meats.  BI,\NC 
DE  VOLAILLE  AUX  CONCOMBERS — White  meat  of 
fowl,  with  cream  sauce  and  cucumbers.  BLAN- 
QUETTE D'AGNEAU  —  Small  round  slices  of  lamb 
and  of  ham  or  tongue,  with  white  sauce,  parsley; 
served  in  a  baked  shape  of  rice  or  bordered  with 
fried  crusts.  BLANQUETTE  DE  Ris  DE  VEAU  AUX 
TRUFFES — Sweetbreads  cut  in  round  slices,  with 
slices  of  truffles  in  cream-colored  sauce,  made  of 
broth,  cream,  butter  and  yolks  of  eggs. 

BLOATERS— Often  called  Yarmouth  bloaters; 
are  smoked  herrings,  the  town  of  Yarmouth  having 
a  special  fame  for  them.  The  largest  herrings  are 
selected  and  mild-cured;  not  for  long  keeping. 
Their  fatness  causes  them  to  bloat  or  swell  while  in 
the  smoke,  hence  the  name. 

BLONDE— Culinary  term;  white  broth.  Soup 
liquor  in  which  is  no  roasted  or  fried  or  dark-col- 
ored meats,  though  it  be  well  seasoned  otherwise. 
It  is  merely  for  use  in  rich  cooking  instead  of  hot 
water.  BLONDE  DE  VEAU  -Veal  broth. 

BLUEBERRIES— Also  called  huckleberries  and 
whort 'cherries;  grow  wild  in  the  eastern  and  middle 
states.  Used  in  all  ways  the  same  as  blackberries. 

BLUE-FISH — Is  split  open  same  style  a.s  macke- 
rel— down  the  back — and  broiled.  BLUE- FISH, 
WHITE  WINE  SAUCE— Cooked  in  pan  with  buttered 
paper  over,  pan  containing  white  wine,  broth,  onion 
and  aromatics;  thickened  when  fish  is  done  with 
flour-and-butter  and  egg  yolks.  BLUE-FISH,  MATE- 
LOTE SAUCE — Similar  to  the  preceding;  matelote  is 
fish  stew,  and  contains  garlic,  onions,  mussels,  an- 
chovy essence,  red  pepper,  lemon  juice.  FILLETS 
OF  BLUE-FISH  A  LA  DUXELLES  —  Boneless  sides 
spread  with  sauce,  breaded  and  fried,  served  with 
Duxelles  sauce  round  in  the  dish.  BLUE-FISH  ir» 
SEASON — From  May  till  November. 

BLUE   POINT   OYSTERS— Small,   but  plump 

oysters  for  serving  raw;  first  so  named  from  a  par- 


254 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


BOA 


ticular  locality  near  New  York;  now  bred  and  cul- 
tivated to  this  requirement  in  various  places. 

BOA— The  late  Mr.  Frank  Buckland  recom- 
mended boa-constrictor  for  its  white  and  firm  flesh, 
"tasting  something  like  veal;"  but  it  is  to  be  ob- 
served that  this  enthusiastic  naturalist's  opinion 
is  founded  only  on  the  fact  that  he  "once  ate"  a 
sample.  Possibly  the  extreme  scarcity  of  boa-con 
stricter  flesh  in  the  markets  was  the  cause  of  his 
subsequent  abstinence. 

BOAR'S  HEAD— There  has  been  more  ceremo- 
niousness  in  the  manner  of  serving  the  boar's  head 
in  olden  times  than  with  anything  else  save  the  pea- 
cock, and  the  survival  of  some  old  customs  still 
makes  this  a  more  important  dish  than  it  otherwise 
would  be.  It  was  in  accordance  with  a  custom, 
ancient  even  then,  that  king  Henry  II  himself 
served  the  boar's  head  to  his  son  on  the  latter's 
coronation;  the  procession  was  preceded  by  trump- 
ets. The  hog's  head  is  boned,  stuffed,  boiled, 
pressed  in  shape,  the  cloth  bandage  taken  off  and 
the  head  is  decorated  fancifully,  sometimes  to  imi- 
tate life,  with  spun  sugar  for  bristles,  sometimes 
made  gay  with  colored  jelly  and  flowers. 

BOISSON — The  economic  Norman  usually  di- 
lutes cider  with  water,  and  it  is  then  sold  and 
bought  as  boisson.  Boisson  means  drink  generally 
elsewhere;  in  Normandy  it  has  the  meaning  of  di- 
luted cider. 

BOIVIN  STEAK— Entrecote  boivin;  restaurant 
specialty.  Steak  broiled,  sauce  poured  over  made 
of  some  spoonfuls  of  gravy  simmered  down  with 
leaves  of  tarragon,  and  crushed  pepper,  meat  glaze 
and  butter  roux  added;  strained. 

BOMBE — Ices  in  a  mould;  an  outside  coating  of 
one  kind,  filling  of  another.  BOMBE  AUX  FRUITS — 
Mould  lined  with  chocolate  ice  cream  and  center 
filled  with  tutti-frutti.  BOMBE  A  LA  SOUVERAINE — 
Mould  lined  with  white  almond  ice  (milk  of  pounded 
almonds),  filled  with  tea  ice  cream.  After  filling 
packed  in  ice. 

BOMBAY  TOAST— Anchovy  butter  with  equal 
amount  of  raw  yolks  stirred  over  fire  till  scrambled, 
spread  on  fried  bread. 

BONIFACE— The  term  applied  to  landlords; 
originates  from  a  character  in  a  play  written  by 
George  Farquhar  in  1707.  Will  Boniface  was  the 
landlord  of  the  inn.  The  play  had  a  great  run  and 
the  name .  Boniface  became  a  synonym  for  hotel - 
keeper  thereafter. 


BOR 

BONED  MEATS— The  term  means  boneless. 
Turkeys,  chickens,  pigs'  heads,  etc.,  have  the  bones 
taken  out  before  cooking  and  are  called  boned  tur- 
keys, etc. 

BON — Good.  The  French  cooks'  usual  response 
to  an  order,  instead  of  the  English  "  very  well,"  or 
the  American  "all  right."  • 

BONDINETTES  OF  GAME— Minced  game  of 
any  kind,  seasoned,  mixed  with  small  proportion  of 
bread  crumbs,  parsley;  egg  and  broth  beaten  to- 
gether to  moisten  the  mince;  baked  in  little  paper 
cases;  served  with  green  peas. 

BONITO— Southern  sea  fish  of  the  Spanish  mack- 
erel family,  sometimes  found  3  or  4  feet  in  length; 
its  principal  food  is  the  flying  fish  of  southern 
waters.  The  flesh  has  a  bluish  tinge,  and  that  of 
the  large  ones  is  rather  coarse,  but  firm,  and  makes 
good  and  shapely  steaks  for  broiling.  BONITO  A  LA 
PROVENCALE — Boiled  in  broth  with  little  flour,  wine, 
onion  and  parsley  in  it.  Liquor  strained,  thickened; 
capers  added. 

BON  VIVANT(Fr.)— Good-liver;  high-liver;  a 
luxurious  eater. 

BORAGE — A  garden  herb;  balm.  A  leaf  or  two 
at  a  time  is  used  to  top  a  punch  or  wine-cup. 

BORAX  AND  BORACIC  ACID— A  borax  val- 
ley was  discovered  in  California,  a  dead  valley,  so- 
called,  or  alkali  tract,  in  which  was  no  life;  and  this 
proved  to  be  a  great,  indeed  an  inexhaustible  deposit 
of  borax,  and  a  company  was  formed  to  work  it. 
The  discoverer  found  the  carcass  of  a  horse  there 
which  had  died  several  months  before  and  was  still 
like  fresh  meat,  the  boron,  boracic  acid,  or  whatever 
the  name  of  the  principle  might  be,  having  preserved 
it.  It  is  said  the  various  useful  properties  of  borax 
were  known  to  the  ancient  Egyptians  who  used  it  in 
embalming  their  dead.  They  have  been  well  known 
in  recent  times,  but  the  material  was  too  scarce  to  al  - 
low  the  knowledge  to  be  of  much  use.  BORACIC 
MEAT  PRESERVATION — A  new  process  of  preserving 
meat  consists  in  injecting  a  solution  of  boracic  acid 
into  the  blood  of  an  animal  immediately  after  it  has 
been  stunned,  and  before  the  heart  has  ceased  to 
beat,  the  whole  operation,  including  the  removal  of 
all  the  blood  and  chemical  fluid  from  the  body  of  the 
animal,  only  biking  a  few  minutes.  A  demonstration 
of  the  effects  of  this  process  has  been  given  at  the 
Adelphi  Hotel,  London.  The  joints  cut  from  a 
sheep,  which  had  been  hanging  for  more  than 
seven  weeks  at  the  House  of  the  Society  of  Arts, 
were  cooked  in  various  ways,  and  those  present 
agreed  that  the  meat  was  equal  to  ordinary  butchers' 
meat. 

BORATED  FISH— That  is,  fish  preserved  by  the 
boracic  acid  process,  are  being  sent  freely  into  our 
markets  by  the  Norwegian  curers,  and  are  found  to 
be  without  taint  or  sign  of  putrefaction,  while  the 
flavor  is  by  no  means  deteriorated.  The  Roosen 
process  of  fish  preservation  by  permeation  of  the 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


255 


BOR 

tissues  by  a  boracic  acid  solution  under  pressure  has 
made  considerable  headway.  Public  tests  of  pack- 
ages of  fish  which  had  been  kept  in  this  way  for 
from  2  to  3  weeks,  and  then  cooked,  resulted  in  an 
entirely  satisfactory  manner,  showing  that  the  pre- 
servative agent  is  most  useful  for  keeping  provisions 
temporarily  until  they  are  required  for  use.  BORAX 
FOR  COCKROACHES— It  having  been  published  with 
great  positiveness  that  powdered  borax  would  drive 
away  or  destroy  cockroaches,  some  correspondents 
answered  that  they  had  not  found  it  so  successful. 
An  experimenter  tells  them  that  the  borax  is  a  sure 
exterminator,  but  it  is  necessary  to  have  it  freshly 
powdered.  Says  he:  "I  have  the  borax  pulverized 
with  a  glass  roller  and  never  use  it  as  it  is  bought. 
The  roaches  do  not  eat  the  borax,  as  many  suppose. 
The  way  it  kills  them  is  this:  The  fine  powdered 
borax  adheres  to  the  membrane  of  the  feet,  and  the 
attempt  to  dislodge  it,  by  striking  the  feet  behind,  is 
what  kills  them.  The  borax  has  to  be  very  fine  and 
fresh.  It  can  be  best  sown  by  hand  in  the  places 
which  they  frequent."  BORAX  FOR  CABBAGE  AND 
ONION  ODOR — In  answer  to  a  correspondent  asking 
what  would  allay  the  smell  from  boiling  green  veg- 
etables, a  steward  of  a  club  replies  that  he  has  used 
borax  in  the  boiling  water  for  years  and  that  it 
effectually  kills  the  smell,  retains  the  green  color 
better  than  soda,  and  is  perfectly  harmless.  BORAX 
IN  SOAP — It  is  a  useful  ingredient,  and,  where  soap 
is  made  in  the  hotel  is  worth  learning  the  recipes  for 
using.  Borax,  if  bought  by  the  keg,  is  one  of  the 
cheapest  substances  in  store. 

BORDELAISE  COOKERY  —  Bordeaux  has 
long  been  renowned  as  the  headquarters  of  good 
cheer.  Paris  may  have  boasted  of  a  larger  number 
of  first-class  restaurants,  but  the  best  cooks  have 
come  from  Bordeaux  and  neighboring  towns  in 
Gascony,  and  the  district  has  for  centuries  been 
known  as  the  strong-hold  of  la  haute  cuisine  bour- 
geoise.  The  markets  of  Bordeaux  itself  are  famed 
for  a  goodly  number  of  local  delicacies.  There  the 
gourmet  can  purchase  that  most  succulent  little  fish, 
the  royan,  which  some  epicures  declare  to  be  a  twin 
brother  of  the  sardine,  while  others  hold  that  it  is  a 
cousin-german  to  a  pilchard,  and  which  is  caught 
only  in  autumn.  Then  there  is  the  ceps,  a  kind  of 
mushroom  which  is  cooked  in  oil;  and  Bordelaise 
gourmets  further  rejoice  in  the  little  birds  called 
"muries,"  which  resemble  the  Italian  "beccafiche," 
or  fig- peckers.  As  for  the  ortolans,  they  are  an  im- 
portation from  Agen  and  the  Pyrenees.  Touching 
the  cookery  of  all  these  good  things,  some  slight 
amount  of  mystery  attaches  to  the  sauce  called 
"Bordelaise."  The  most  learned  authorities  in  cook- 
ery hold  that,  properly  speaking,  there  is  no  such 
sauce  as  Bordelaise  at  all,  and  that  what  is  so  called 
is  only  a  variety  of  the  "  sauce  Genevoise,"  and  ob- 
tained its  conventional  name  on  account  of  the  Bor- 
deaux wine  which  forms  one  of  its  principal  ingre- 
dients. The  culinary  doctors,  however,  differ  as  to 
the  hue  of  tiie  wine  used  in  making  Bordelaise.  In 


BOU 

Kettner's  "Book  of  the  Table "  it  is  laid  down  that 
Bordelaise  should  be  made  of  a  good  brcwn  sauce 
— Espagnole  is  the  best— boiled  down  with  a  tum- 
blerful of  red  Bordeaux,  with  one  or  two  shallots 
chopped  small,  and  with  a  clove  of  gallic  wel' 
crushed.  Jules  Gouffe's  recipe  for  the  same  sauce 
prescribes  so  much  Spanish  sauce  boiled  down  with 
white  Bordeaux  wine,  either  Sauterne  or  Grave, 
which  must  be  added  chopped  and  blanched  shallots 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  To  add  prob- 
lem to  problem  and  mystery  to  mystery,  there  is  a 
weil-known  dish  called  entrecote  a  la  Bordelaise, 
which  ostensibly  should  be  fillet  steak  with  Borde- 
laise sauce.  It  is  nothing  of  the  kind— first,  because, 
strictly  speaking,  there  is  no  such  thing  as  Borde- 
laise sauce,  and,  next,  because  the  entrec6te  in  quest- 
ion is  only  a  rib-steak  grilled  in  the  ordinary  way, 
and  served  with  a  piece  ef  cold  maitre  d' hotel  butter, 
into  which  has  been  wrought  some  finely  minced 
shallot.  It  is  possible,  nevertheless,  that  entrec6tes 
accommodated  with  cold  maitre  d' hotel  butter  were 
popular  in  the  cuisine  bjurgeoise,  or  cookery  of  pri- 
vate life,  at  Bordeaux,  long  before  they  found  favor 
in  Paris. 

BORDERS  OF  RICE,  ETC.— (See  Boidure.) 
BORDURE  [<?«]  (Fr.)— Dishes  that  are  served  up 
by  making  on  the  platter  a  border  of  mashed  potato, 
rice,  fine  hominy,  Jerusalem  artichoke,  or  any  such 
material,  and  filling  the  inside  with  the  meat  pre- 
pared for  it,  are  often  named  as  "Border  of  Rice," 
or  whatever  it  is,  "garnished  with  — "  whatever 
ragout  or  stewed  meat.  This  making  the  border, 
the  leading  feature  is  one  of  the  unintelligible  tech- 
nicalities; it  arose  from  the  possibility  of  making  the 
border  an  ornamental  object,  a  work  of  culinary  art, 
more  to  be  thought  of  than  the  inside  filling  of  meat. 
BORDER  MOULDS — There  are  moulds  to  be  pur- 
chased of  many  fancy  shapes,  like  crowns,  tiaras, 
etc.,  which  are  but  borders  to  be  filled  with  various 
hot  border  material,  as  named  above,  to  be  turned 
out  like  a  cake  after  baking,  but  more  particularly 
are  used  to  make  borders  of  jelly,  of  fruits  in  jelly, 
pains,  cremes,  and  salads  set  with  jelly,  all  to  have  a 
hollow  or  well,  to  be  filled  with  whipped  cream,  or 
salad,  after  turning  out. 

BOUCHEE  (Fr.)  — Mouthful.  PETITES  Bou- 
CHEES — Little  mouthfuls.  BOUCHEES  AU  SALPICON — 
Two  rounds  of  puff  paste,  with  some  savory  minced 
meat  between,  and  baked.  BOUCHEES  A  LA  REINE — 
Small  patties  of  the  vol-au-vent  sort,  with  a  spoon- 
ful of  minced  chicken  or  other  meat  in  sauce  for  the 
filling.  BOUCHEES  A  LA  MOELLE— Small  patties 
filled  with  marrow  and  a  savory  sauce  of  cream 
shallots,  chives,  etc. 

BOUDINS  (Fr.)— Puddings  of  meat.  BOUDIN 
NOIR — Blood  pudding  or  sausage.  BOUDIN  BLANC — 
White  pudding  or  sausage  of  veal,  bread,  etc. 
BOUDINS  A  LA  RICHELIEU— This  kind  of  hot,  white 
pudding  of  chicken  meat  is  thought  to  have  done 
more  to  immortalize  the  name  of  Richelieu  than  the 


256 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


BOU 

capture  of  Mahon.  First,  it  is  a  paste  made  of 
breast  of  chicken,  pounded  and  forced  through  a 
seive,  seasoned,  and,  with  the  addition  of  a  pasty 
sauce  to  make  it  like  dough,  it  is  made  out  like  flat- 
tened eggs  in  shape,  and  poached.  Then  made  cold, 
part  of  the  inside  removed,  and  the  cavity  filled  with 
a  mixture  of  lightly  fried  onion,  truffles  and  mush- 
rooms with  butter  and  gravy;  then  the  orifice  cov- 
ered with  the  chicken  paste,  and  the  surface  decor- 
ated with  truffles  made  to  adhere  with  white  of  egg. 
These  may  be  made  in  advance  of  the  meal.  When 
wanted,  they  are  simmered  in  a  little  broth,  not 
enough  to  cover;  made  to  shine  with  a  little  glaze 
over  the  decorated  surface,  and  dished  up  with  a 
ragout  of  glazed  onions,  small  quenelles  and  truffles 
around.  BOUDINS  DE  LIEVRE  A  LA  RICHELIEU— 
Hare  cooked,  the  meat  pounded  to  a  paste  with  fat 
bacon  and  aromatics;  made  into  rolls,  breaded  and 
broiled;  served  with  truffle  sauce.  BOUDINS  DE 
LAPIN— White  puddings  of  rabbit;  the  meat  pounded 
through  a  seive  with  aromatics  and  fat  bacon,  made 
into  flattened  balls,  decorated  on  top,  poached, 
served  with  mushrooms  or  truffles  in  brown  sauce. 
BOUDIN  DE  VEAU  A  LA  LEGUMIERE — Veal  force- 
meat prepared  as  for  rabbit  boudins;  a  mould  orna- 
mentally lined  with  cut  vegetables,  the  center  filled 
with  the  prepared  veal;  steamed,  served  with  brown 
sauce. 

BOUILLI  (Fr.)— Boiled  beef. 

BOUILLON  (Fr.)— Beef  broth;  also  the  general 
name  for  stock  or  soup  liquor  of  any  kind  of  meat. 

BOUILLABAISSE— The  provencal  fish  -stew;  is 
not  a  very  formidable  dish  to  prepare.  The  cooks 
of  various  hotels  and  restaurants  in  the  southern 
sea-coast  towns  of  the  United  States  make  it  two 
or  three  times  a  week  as  a  matter  of  routine,  and 
are  not  pinched  to  the  requirement  of  any  particular 
sort  of  fish  for  it.  The  plentiful  and  almost  bone- 
less sed-fish  (channel  bass)  is  taken  for  the  found- 
ation and  any  others  may  be  mixed  in  sparingly. 
It  is  required  to  have,  besides  the  cut-up  fish,  oil, 
white  wine,  garlic,  leeks  or  onions  or  both,  saffron 
or  tomatoes,  red  pepper  and  herbs.  The  onions, 
leeks  and  garlic  finely  minced  are  half  fried  in  the 
oil  in  a  broad  saucepan;  the  pieces  of  fish  put  in  and 
the  frying  continued  wi^i  a  little  gentle  shaking 
until  the  fish  is  set  firm.  Then  the  wine  is  poured 
in,  perhaps  a  little  water  or  stock,  the  pepper,  herbs, 
salt  and  saffron,  and  the  stewing  goes  on  for  an 
hour  without  a  lid.  The  liquor  or  gravy  is  required 
to  be  like  thick  soup,  is  either  boiled  down  or  thick- 
ened with  roux,  well  skimmed,  served  like  a  stew, 
fish  and  sauce  together.  The  modern  tomato  is 
supplanting  the  ancient  saffron  in  dishes  of  this 
class,  and  the  Creole  bouillabaisse  made  with  to- 
matoes is  acceptable  to  everybody.  The  eminent 
sample  of  the  highest  class  of  culinary  literature 
appended  here  will  be  found  edifying  reading.  It 
is  from  the  leading  journal  in  the  catering  trade: 

"Bouillabaisse  is  a  fish  soup  for  which  the  Pro- 


BOU 

vencal  fishing  towns  are  famous,  chiefly  Marseilles. 
Garlic  is  essential  to  it,  as  to  nearly  all  the  Proven- 
cal cookery;  but  those  who  eschew  garlic  may  still 
obtain  from  it  a  good  idea  of  how  to  concoct  a  sa- 
vory fish  soup.  Thackeray's  'Ballad  of  Bouilla- 
baisse' has  given  it  a  great  name  in  England,  but 
most  Englishmen  find  it  disappointing.  It  is  a  <ox:p 
to  be  mightily  loved  or  to  be  abhorred. 

'This  Bouillabaisse  a  noble  dish  is — 
A  sort  of  soup  or  broth  or  brew 
Or  hotch-potch  of  all  sorts  of  fishes, 
That  Greenwich  never  could  outdo; 
Green  herbs,  red  peppers,  mussels,  saffern, 
Soles,  onions,  garlic,  roach  and  dace; 
All  these  you  eat  at  Terra's  tavern 
In  that  one  dish  of  Bouillabaisse.' 
"Choose  a  variety  of  fish — soles,    red  mullets, 
dorys,    whitings,    flounders,    perch — avoiding    the 
oily  sorts,  as  the  herrjng  and  the  eel.    The  ir 
mentioned  by  Thackeray  are  a  pleasant  addition. 
Reckon  from  half  to  three-quarters  of  a  pound  for 
each  person  to  be  served.     For  every  pound  of  fish 
put  a  pint  of  water  into  a  stewpan,  a  quarter  of  a 
pint  of  white   wine,    and  a  tablespoonful   of  oil. 
Then,  supposing  there  are  four  or  five  persons  to  be 
provided  for,  add  two  sliced  onions,  two  cloves, 
two  bay  leaves,  two  leeks   (the  white  only,    but 
chopped),  four  cloves  of  garlic,  a  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  a  little  orang^  or  lemon  zest,  half 
an  ounce  of  chopped  capsicums,  a  teaspoonful  of 
saffron  (but  many  tastes  crave  a  whole  tablespoon- 
ful), pepper  and  salt.     Into  this  mix  the  fish,  which 
have  been  well  trimmed  as  well  as  cut  into  pieces, 
and  boil  them  for  half  an  hour.    The  Marseillaise 
declare  for  rapid  boiling  on  a  brisk  fire,  pointing 
out  that  the  name  'Bouillabaisse'  means  Bouiilon- 
abaiss^ — that  is,  broth  rapidly  reduced  by  evapora- 
tion.   This  rule,  however,  is  not  always  followed. 
When  the  soup  is  to  be  served,  drain  the  fish  and 
put  them  on  a  dish  apart,  making,  spite  of  Thack- 
eray, a  pretty  good  clearance  of  herbs  and  spices. 
Strain  the  soup  by  itself  into  a  tureen,  with,  it  may 
be,  sippets  of  toast  in  it.     It  is  more  common,  but 
not  so  good,  to  serve  soup  and  fish  together.    Kett- 
ner's  recipe  for  the  famous  Provencal  fish  stew  (as 
set  forth  above)  differs  materially  from  that  adopted 
at  the  Hotel  du  Louvre  et  de  la  Paix,  Mar.-ci'les, 
where  bouillabaisse  is    unquestionably  cooked  to 
perfection.     We  are  able  to  give  this  recipe: 

"  'RECETTE  DE  LA  BOUILLABAISSE — Poissons: 
Rascasse,  vives,  tfiterase,  rougcts,  vercleau  tache' 
rouge,  chapons,  macquerau,  merlan,  anguille  <\e 
mer,  langoustes  (petites),  cigale,  galinette,  St. 
Pierre.  N.  B. — Le  poisson  doitVHre  lave  et  nt-ttoye 
dans  1'eau  de  mer,  1'eau  douce  Itii  enleve  sa  finesse 
de  gout. 

"  'Composition:  Huile  fine,  un  peu  de  cognac,  un 
peu  de  vin  blanc,  poivre  moulu  de  frais,  sel,  saffran, 
oignon,  bouquet  garni,  ail  tres  pen.  X.  B.-Bouquet 
se  compose  de  laurier,  basilic,  sauge,  thym,  fenouil, 
persil. 

"  'X.  B.-Cuire  viviment  pendant  sept  minutes.' 
"The  rascasse,  or  tfiterase,  is  :i  reddish  fish  like  a 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


257 


BOU 

perch,  with  a  similar  spiny  process  on  his  back. 
This  is  the  prime  fish  of  the  bouillabaisse.  Of  the 
remainder,  the  little  red  mullet  of  Marseilles,  the 
mackerel,  and  the  whiting,  are  well  known.  The 
galinette  is  the  gurnard;  the  St.  Pierre  is  our  fam- 
iliar friend,  Mr.  John  Dory;  and  the  langouste  is  the 
sea  crayfish  commonly  seen  in  London  fishmongers' 
shops.  It  is  believed  that  in  the  Mediterranean  the 
-angouste  is  better  than  the  lobster,  which  is  rarely 
in  condition  in  these  southern  waters.  The  anauille 
de  mer  is  an  eel  caught  among  the  rocks  of  the 
Riviera,  and  the  -uerdeau  is  altogether  a  remarkable 
fish ;  it  is  like  a  salt-water  pike  in  the  expression  of 
its  face  and  the  shape  of  its  body.  Its  coloring  is 
curious.  It  is  of  a  metallic  greenish  blue,  not  so 
vivid  as  that  of  the  fresh  sardine,  but  very  bright, 
and  divided  like  a  map  by  orange  lines,  which  sug- 
gest a  survival  of  a  sometime  mail-clad  fish.  Any 
piece  of  alligator- skin  will  convey  the  exact  idea  of 
the  shape  of  these  markings.  The  vive  is  the  weaver 
of  English  waters." 

BOURIDE  A  LA  MARSEILLAISE  —  Fish 
stewed  in  wine  and  water  with  garlic  and  other 
aromatics;  yellow  sauce  made  of  pounded  garlic, 
lemon  juice  and  egg  yolks;  the  boiling  fish  liquor 
strained  with  it,  cooked  enough  to  thicken,  but  not 
curdle;  sauce  poured  over  slices  of  bread,  fish  served 
with  it  separately. 

BOURGEOISE  (a  /a)— In  family  style;  indicating 
that  the  dishes  are  of  medium  richness;  not  costly. 

BRAIXS — The  brains  of  all  domestic  animals  are 
eaten  and  considered  a  luxury.  The  brains  of  ost- 
riches and  peacocks  were  among  the  rare  and  costly 
delicacies  at  the  famous  banquets  of  the  ancients. 
Nearly  all  kinds  obtained  in  our  markets  are  by  a 
harmless  fiction  classed  as  calves'  brains,  they  being 
regarded  the  best,  as  they  certainly  are  for  a  neat 
and  compact  appearance  after  cooking  in  slices;  but 
any  others  do  as  well  for  the  various  chopped-up 
forms.  Tubs  and  barrels  full  of  brains  are  sent  out 
by  the  pork  packers;  there  are  shops  in  some  parts 
of  the  city  where  the  retailing  of  brains  is  a  specialty; 
they  are  put  up  in  ten  cents'  portions  in  wooden 
butter  dishes  and  sold  by  hundreds  daily.  Ox  brains 
are  equally  plentiful  certain  seasons  and  are  easily 
obtainable  at  all  times  from  the  dealers  in  fancy 
meats  who  advertise  to  supply  hotels  and  restau- 
lants.  BROILED  CALF'S  BRAINS — (/)-The  brains  are 
parboiled,  pressed  slightly;  when  cold,  sliced,  sea- 
soned, dipped  in  flour,  broiled  and  buttered.  (2)- 
CALVES'  BRAINS  EN  BROCHETTE— Boiled  brains  in 
small  pieces  of  even  size  run  upon  skewers,  sea- 
soned, dipped  in  egg  and  cracker  dust  and  cooked  on 
the  gridiron.  Must  be  previously  boiled  in  salted 
water  and  made  cold.  Served  on  the  skewers  if  they 
arc  <  f  silver  or  plated.  BRAIN  CAKES — Lambs'  or 
sheep's  brains  boiled  first  in  milk,  chopped,  mixed 
with  bread  crumbs,  yolk  of  eggs,  little  cream,  chop- 
ped parsley,  salt,  pepper;  made  into  flattened  cakes, 
breaded  and  fried;  served  on  a  napkin  with  fried 
parsley.  RABBITS'  BRAINS— In  England  the  brain 


BRA 

of  a  rabbit  is  a  tit-bit  for  a  lady.  SHEEP'S  BRAINS, 
PARSLEY  SAUCE — Laid  in  salted  water  to  draw  out 
the  blood ;  then  boiled  about  20 minutes,  butter  sauce 
with  parsley  poured  over.  SCRAMBLED  BRAINS 
AND  EGGS— Brains  boiled  10  minutes,  broken  up 
with  raw  eggs  and  scrambled  in  frying  pan.  BRAIN 
PATTIES— Scrambled  brains  with  eggs,  parsley  and 
lemon  juice  mixed  in,  soft  cooked,  filled  into  vol-au- 
vent  or  patty  cases  of  puff  paste.  SHEEP'S  BRAINS 
EN  CAISSE — The  brains  parboiled,  cut  in  pieces, 
filled  into  little  paper  cases,  buttered,  Bechamel  sauce 
over,  and  bread  crumbs,  and  baked.  CALVES' 
BRAINS  AU  GRATIN — Same  as  the  last.  CALVES' 
BRAINS  A  LA  PROVENJALE — Cooked  in  stock  with 
wine,  oil,  parsley,  garlic,  onions,  pepper,  salt;  dip- 
ped out,  sauce  reduced  to  glaze  strained  over  them. 
CALVES'  BRAINS  A  LA  RAVIGOTE— Boiled,  cut  in 
slices  and  arranged  in  a  circle  with  Ravigote  sauce 
in  center.  CROQUETTES  OF  BRAINS — Brains  chop 
ped,  made  into  sort  of  rich  paste  with  butter,  bread 
crumbs,  eggs  and  seasonings,  made  out  in  ball  or 
roll  shapes  when  cold;  breaded  and  fried.  MARI- 
NADE DE  CERVELLES — Brains  soaked  in  vinegar, 
pepper  and  salt,  dipped  in  batter,  and  fried.  BRAINS 
AU  BEURRE  NOIR — Boiled,  pressed,  split,  dipped  in 
flour,  fried  in  butter  in  a  saute  pan;  butter  turns 
brown  and  frothy,  and  served  with  them;  garnished 
with  peas,  capers,  or  parsley,  and  lemon.  BRAINS 
FOR  BREAKFAST— The  best  way  is  scrambled  with 
eggs  and  served  in  deep  dishes  by  spoonfuls  to  each 
guest.  (See  Cervelles.) 

BRAISING — The  method  of  cooking  meat  in  a 
closed  pot  with  burning  charcoal  on  top  as  well  as 
below.  It  is  nearly  imitated  in  a  covered  baking 
pan  in  a  closed  oven.  By  braising,  the  meat  is  sub- 
jected to  the  action  of  the  steam,  heated  to  an  extra 
degree  by  the  fire -covered  lid,  and  is  thereby  almost 
dissolved  while  still  enveloped  in  the  flavors  of  the 
herbs  and  seasonings  in  the  pot  itself.  The  French 
call  the  covered  pot  a  brasiere;  charcoal  is  called 
both  braise  and  charbon  de  hois.  The  Mexicans  call 
their  charcoal  furnace  a  brasero.  In  English  it  is  a 
brazier.  The  South  Kensington  school  of  cookery 
has  adopted  the  English  words,  brazier,  braze,  braz- 
ing and  brazed,  instead  of  braist,  etc.  Probably 
that  is  as  it  ought  to  be.  BRAISED  OR  BRAZED 
MEATS^Are,  theiefore,  meats  cooked  by  brazing, 
with  various  styles  in  the  adjuncts  and  sauces. 

BRANDADE  DE  MORUE  (Fr.)— Brandade  of 
salt  cod.  The  fish  pulled  or  minced,  mixed  with 
onions,  garlic,  saffron,  oil,  pepper,  etc.  Is  a  yellow 
sort  of  hashed  fish. 

BRANDY  SNAPS— A  dark-brown  wafer  cake, 
containing  molasses  and  no  brandy.  The  dough  is 
placed  in  balls,  but  runs  out  thin  in  baking;  the 
cakes  are  shaped  on  a  round  stick  to  tubular  shape 
while  cooling. 

BRAWN — English  name  for  head  cheese.  Brawn 
is  a  dish  of  great  antiquity.  In  olden  times  it  was 
made  from  the  flesh  of  large  boars,  which  lived  in  a 


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BRA 

half-wild  state,  and  when  put  to  fatten  were  strap- 
ped and  belted  tight  round  the  carcass,  in  order  to 
make  the  flesh  become  dense  and  brawny.  It  came 
to  market  in  rolls  two  feet  long  by  ten  inches  in 
diameter,  packed  in  wicker  baskets.  BRAWN- 
SAUCE — Sauce  for  head  cheese,  etc., —specialty  of 
chefoi  Queen's  College,  Oxford,  made  by  mixing  i 
tablespoon  mustard,  J^  spoon  moist  sugar,  2  spoons 
oil  and  4  of  vinegar. 

BRAZIL  NUTS— Used  for  the  table,  but  not 
choice;  they  are  rather  too  coarse,  and  being  so  large 
and  heavy  are  not  profitable.  But  they  are  used  in 
candies,  and  may  take  the  place  of  almonds  in  cakes, 
blanc  mange  and  ice  cream. 

BRAZILIAN  BREAD— A  cake  made  with  Brazil 
nuts;  J^  Ib.  of  the  pounded  nuts,  12  eggs,  i  Ib.  sugar, 
4  oz.  wheat  flour,  2  oz.  rice  flour.  Baked  in  round 
tins. 

BREAM — A  fish  often  named  in  French  and  En- 
glish menus. 

BREAD  BATTER  CAKES— Pancakes  or  grid- 
dle cakes  made  with  soaked  bread  crumbs  and  flour, 
etc.,  as  for  flour  cakes. 

BREAD  PUDDINGS- (/)-In  cups,  made  of  % 
Ib.  each  bread  crumbs,  suet,  sugar  and  little  salt; 
flavored  with  lemon  rind  and  juice;  baked;  turned 
out;  served  with  sauce.  (a)- Bread  crumbs  and 
minced  suet  in  a  pan;  sweetened,  then  custard,  all  it 
will  absorb;  baked.  (j)-Slices  of  bread  and  butter 
in  a  pan,  with  currants,  raisins,  or  any  other  fruit; 
thin  custard  to  fill  up;  baked.  (#}-Cutup  crumbs  of 
bread  in  dice,  covered  with  boiling  milk;  butter 
stirred  in,  and  eggs;  flavored,  sweetened,  boiled  in 
basin,  tied  down  with  a  floured  cloth.  (J)~BREAD 
AND  RAISIN  PUDDING — Bread  cut  in  dice,  mixed 
•with  raisins  in  buttered  pan,  and  bits  of  butter  all 
through;  raw  custard  poured  in  to  cover  bread; 
baked. 

BREAD  PIE  A  LA  NORMANDY— A  pie  in  a 
deep  dish,  made  of  cabbage,  bread,  sausage  meat,  an 
egg,  salt  and  pepper — amount  of  ingredients:  the 
white  part  only  of  one  or  two  heads  cabbage  boiled 
and  minced,  a  large  stale  roll  soaked  and  squeezed 
dry,  %  Ib.  sausage  meat.  Bottom  and  top  crust 
to  pie. 

BREAD  SAUCE— One  pint  of  broth  with  an  on- 
ion boiled  in  it  strained  hot  over  i2oz.  breadcrumbs; 
boiled  for  10  minutes;  3  tablespoons  cream  added; 
salt,  pepper.  Served  with  roast  fowls  and  par- 
tridges. BREAD  SAUCE,  BROWN — The  surplus  stuff- 
ing of  roast  turkeys  stirred  up  in  the  brown  gravy, 
passed  through  a  fine  strainer;  well  skimmed. 

BREAD  STUFFING— Is  made  of  soaked  bread 
squeezed  dry,  mixed  with  suet,  lard,  drippings,  or 
sausage  fat;  flavored  with  either  sage  or  sage  and 
onions,  or  thyme  and  other  sweet  herbs;  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and,  if  wanted  rich,  has  raw 
volks  added.  Used  for  stuffing  fowls,  rolled  mutton 
and  veal,  pork,  ducks,  rolled  entrecotes,  or  steaks, 
tomatoes,  egg  plants,  cucumbers,  etc. 


RBO 

BREMEN  CHEESE-CAKES— Almond  paste, 
12  oz.;  sugar,  4  oz.;  yolks  of  eggs,  S;  pounded  to- 
gether, filled  in  paste-lined  patty  pans,  bit  of  butter 
on  top  of  each,  and  baked.  • 

BRETONNE  SAUCE— Chopped  onions  fried  in 
butter;  flour  added,  and  broth,  salt  and  pepper; 
strained,  and  parsley  added.  A  cold  Bretonni-  sauce 
is  made  of  horse-radish,  mustard,  sugar,  salt  and 
vinegar  stirred  together. 

BRIE  CH'E.ES'E.—Frotnageclebrie.  The  richest 
of  cheeses,  flat  and  thin;  each  one  is  in  a  box  bv  it- 
self. It  usually  turns  soft,  and  runs  more  or  less 
with  age,  but  is  then  esteemed  the  most.  It  is  a 
cream  cheese  and  like  the  cream  cheeses  made  at 
some  country  dairies,  but  with  better  keeping  qual- 
ities. It  is  about  the  same  price  as  Camembert. 

BRILL— A  fish  of  the  other  side  the  Atlantic;  it 
is  like  a  turbot,  flat,  and  is  cooked  in  the  same  ways. 
BRILL  A  LA  PARISIEXN-E— Specialty.  Is  split  on  the 
black  side  (back),  drained  and  sponged  dry.  Laid  in 
a  baking  pan  with  minced  onions  and  mushrooms, 
salt  and  sufficiency  of  white  wine,  and  baked.  Com- 
plicated garnish  of  oysters,  truffles,  fish  quenelles, 
tails  of  crawfish  and  mushrooms;  cooked  in  wine, 
liquors;  all  mingled  with  fish  gravy  and  thickened 
with  egg  yolks.  Built  up  ornamentally  for  party. 
BAKED  BRILL  (or  other  fish)— Is  soaked  for  2  hours 
in  olive  oil,  seasoned  with  lemon  juice,  bay  leaf, 
salt,  pepper,  chives;  breaded  and  baked;  served  with 
puree  of  tomatoes. 

BRIOCHE— A  yellow,  rich,  light  kind  of  bread, 
very  slightly  sweetened ;  a  sort  of  bun  or  rusk.  Made 
by  taking  light  dough  and  adding  butter,  eggs  and 
little  sugar  and  salt;  letting  rise  again  and  making  in 
shapes ;  letting  rise  again  before  baking.  The  bakers' 
shops  of  different  cities  show  this  in  various  shapes; 
one  form  is  a  ring  or  border  of  twist,  glazed  and 
sugared  on  top.  To  save  eggs,  the  yellow  color  is 
given  by  colorings,  and  instances  have  occurred  of 
poisoning  by  chrome  yellow  used  in  this  way.  An- 
nato  and  saffron  are  harmless  colorings. 

BRIGHTON  ROCK  CAKES— Made  to  look 
rough  by  pulling  off  the  dough  with  a  fork  on  to  the 
baking  pan.  Dough  made  of  i^  Ibs.  flour,  y>  Ib. 
each  sugar,  butter,  citron  and  currants,  %  oz.  am- 
monia dissolved  in  little  milk.  Worked  together; 
baked  in  pieces,  size  of  walnuts. 

BRITZELS  OR  BRETZELS  — These  are  the 
hard,  brittle  bowknots  of  salted  Bread  eaten  in 
nearly  all  beer  saloons  on  both  sides  the  ocean,  and 
as  popular  now  in  France  as  in  Germany  where  tlu-y 
originated.  Made  of  raised  dough;  thrown  into 
boiling  lye  when  light,  and  afterwards  baked.  In- 
gredients only  flour,  water,  yeast  and  salt;  dough 
stiff  us  for  crackers;  well  broke  or  kneaded.  Boiling 
Ive  is  y^.  Ib.  potash  in  10  gls.  water.  Britzels  thrown 
in  sink  at  first,  then  rise,  and  are  skimmed  out, 
salted  over,  and  baked. 

BROAD  BEANS— A  kind  of  l<ean  (extensively 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


259 


BRO 

grown  and  used  in  England)  which  grows  on  a  stalk 
4  or  5  feet  high,  and  is  cultivated  in  rows  like  Indian 
corn.  The  beans  are  produced  in  thumb-like  pods; 
are  gathered  green;  boiled  and  served  with  parsley  - 
and-butter  sauce.  They  are  somewhat  coarse  and 
do  not  figure  as  an  adjunct  in  fine  dishes. 

BROCCOLI — A  green  sort  of  cauliflower;  cooked 
like  cabbage,  or  pickled.  The  importance  of  the 
broccoli-growing  industry  is  shown  by  the  fact  that 
the  acreage  under  cultivation  in  the  Penzance  dis- 
trict is  estimated  at  1,000,  each  acre  being  supposed 
to  contain  about  10,000  broccoli — that  is,  for  the  dis- 
trict, a  rough  total  of  10,000,000  broccoli. 

BROCHET  (Fr.)— Pike;  a  fish. 

BROCHETTE  (Fr.)— A  small  spit;  a  skewer. 
LIVER  A  LA  BROCHETTE — Is  cut  in  small  thin  slices 
and  strung  on  a  skewer  with  slices  of  bacon  be- 
tween, then  broiled  or  fried.  Oysters,  kidneys,  etc., 
in  similar  fashion. 

BROMA — Cocoa  or  chocolate  in  powder. 

BROWN  BETTY  —  An  apple  pudding.  (See 
apples. .) 

BROWX  BREAD  — May  be  of  two  or  more 
kinds.  In  this  country  by  brown  bread  is  usually 
understood  a  mixture  of  cornmcal,  rye,  flour,  gra- 
ham, and,  perhaps,  white  flour;  salted,  slightly 
sweetened  with  molasses  and  raised  either  with 
yeast  or  baking  powder;  either  steamed  or  baked 
for  several  hours.  In  England,  the  brown  bread 
served  almost  invariably  with  fish  and  oysters  is 
made  of  unbolted  wheat  flour;  here  called  graham 
bread. 

BRUNOISE  SOUP— Clear  soup  with  vegetables 
and  green  peas. 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS  — The  small  cabbages 
which  sprout  from  cabbage  stalks  after  the  heads 
have  been  cut  off.  This  vegetable  belongs  to  all 
dishes  technically  designated  a  la  Flamande,  or 
Flemish  style.  The  sprouts  are  very  little  known 
in  the  United  States,  perhaps  because  the  best  way 
of  preserving  cabbage  through  the  winter  has  been 
found  to  be  pulling  up  roots  and  all  and  burying 
upside  down  in  banks  of  earth.  If  the  stalks  are 
allowed  to  remain  and  continue  growing  with  favor- 
able weather,  numerous  small  heads  from  the  size 
of  olives  to  that  of  apples  will  form  upon  them, 
those  are  Brussels  sprouts. 

BUBBLE  AND  SQUEAK— An  English  stand- 
ing dish.  It  is  cold  beef  and  cabbage  fried  together; 
sliced  beef  with  fat  or  drippings  first  in  the  pan, 
then  the  cold  cooked  cabbage  fried  in  the  beef  fat. 
While  this  seems  to  have  been  the  original  homely 
dish,  and  corned  beef  was  considered  better  for  the 
purpose  than  fresh,  various  professional  cooks  and 
writers  have  undertaken  to  improve  it  by  adding 
sauces  or  various  vegetables,  evidently  without  any 
warrant  for  it,  for  the  name  itself  is  enough  to  indi- 
cate that  it  is  ;\  dish  of  poor,  but  honest  origin  and 
not  adapted  to  become  high-toned. 


BUN 

BUCKWHEAT— Kind  of  grain  that  makes  a 
gray  flour  like  rye  or  poor  wheat  flour,  and  easily 
adulterated.  Can  be  made  into  biscuits;  principally 
used  in  making  griddle  cakes.  BUCKWHEAT  CAKES 
— This  popular  breakfast  luxury  it  is  popularly  sup- 
posed cannot  be  learned  from  printed  recipes.  It  is 
among  the  standing  jokes  of  the  clubs  that  their 
chefs  can  never  succeed  in  making  buckwheat  cakes 
to  perfection,  and  colored  women  cooks  have  to  be 
employed  for  that  specialty.  These  women  raise 
the  first  batch  of  batter  with  yeast,  then  let  it  turn 
sour  by  keeping  some  over  from  day  to  day,  adding 
more  flour  and  correcting  the  sourness  with  soda. 
Some  syrup,  salt  and  melted  lard  are  added,  and 
thin  cakes  baked  on  a  greased  griddle. 

BUFFALO — Nearly  extinct  now,  but  a  few  vears 
ago  was  as  plentiful  in  the  West  as  beef.  The  meat 
has  the  appearance  of  beef,  coarser  grained,  but 
lacks  the  flavor;  it  tasts  like  elk. 

BUFFALO-FISH — This  name  is  never  seen  in  a 
bill  of  fare,  which  is  somewhat  singular  since  tM 
fish  is  eaten  probably  by  tons  daily  down  the  entire 
length  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  and  tributary 
rivers;  it  divides  the  territory  with  the  catfish.  It  is  a 
carp  which  goes  by  this  name;  it  attains  to  a  weight 
of  20  pounds,  but  is  commonly  met  with  about  half 
that  size.  The  Buffalo  has  a  good,  capacious  mouth 
and  can  take  a  bait  as  well  as  a  catfish.  There  is, 
however,  another  fish  of  similar  appearance,  with 
large  scales,  called  the  sucker,  which  is  not  nearly 
as  good  a  fish ;  its  snout  is  elongated  and  mouth  small ; 
it  is  bony  and  watery  when  cooked.  The  Buffalo, 
on  the  contrary,  is  excellent  boiled  whole  or  fried  in 
slices.  A  whole  baked  or  barbecued  Buffalo  is  a 
favorite  fish  at  the  New  Orleans  lunch  houses  where 
sea  fish  can  be  had  just  as  well  and  as  cheap.  (See 
carf.) 

BULLOCKS'    BLOOD    BON-BONS— At  the 

great  London  exhibition  of  1851,  M.  Brochieri  ex- 
hibited and  sold  delicious  candies,  cakes,  patties  and 
bon-bons  of  bullocks'  blood,  rivalling  the  famous 
marrons  glares  of  the  confiseries  of  the  Boulevards, 
to  show  the  food  possibilities  which  lie  in  the  prin- 
cipal ingredient  of  the  ancient  black  pudding. 

BUISSON  (Fr.)— Bush.  A  buisson  of  lobsters 
(de  /towards)  is  a  pyramid  of  red  lobster  on  a  green 
bush.  A  buisson  of  shrimps  (crerettes)  a  smaller 
bush  or  pyramid  of  similar  style.  There  are  also 
pieces  no- named  which  are  pyramid  shapes  of  cold 
butter  stuck  over  with  pealed  shrimps  or  prawns, 
interspersed  with  cress  or  parsley. 

BUNS — A  bun  is  a  sweet  roll,  raised  with  yeast 
like  ordinary  bread,  though  there  are  at  least  a  score 
of  different  names,  shapes  and  qualities,  and  quite  a 
number  of  people  follow  the  Scotch  fashion  of  call- 
ing all  sorts  of  soft  rolls,  French  rolls, petits pains, 
rusks  or  whatever  else  buns,  whether  sweet  or  not, 
which  tends  to  a  confusion  of  names.  However,  as 
said  above,  buns  are  sweet  rolls  not  so  rich  as  cakes, 
and  one  of  the  best  is  the  HOT  CROSS BrN,  specially 


260 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


BUR 

made  for  Good  Friday  and  eaten  by  some  people  for 
the  sake  of  keeping  up  an  old  custom,  and  by  more 
because  the  buns  are  good.  A  good  bun  can  be  made 
by  any  person  by  taking  light  bread  dough  and 
•working  into  it  some  butter,  sugar,  spice  or  extracts, 
raisins,  currants  and  candied  peel,  and  yolks  of  eggs. 
The  fruit  is  not  always  put  in,  and  not  essential,  nor 
need  there  be  much  of  either  of  the  other  ingredients; 
it  is  essential,  however,  to  have  good,  lively,  well- 
raised  dough.  The  buns  are  but  balls  of  the  sweet-  j 
ened  dough  set  to  rise,  then  baked  and  egged  and 
sugared  over.  If  to  be  "cross  buns,"  the  cross  is 
made  bv  pushing  down  a  knife  nearly  to  the  bottom 
of  each  bun  while  it  is  rising,  when  about  half  light. 
Other  kinds  of  buns  can  be  found  described  under 
the  proper  letters. 

BURR  OAK  CIDER— Trade  name  for  imitation 
cider,  made  of  8  oz.  tartaric  acid,  22  Ibs.  brown  sugar  . 
in  a  barrel  of  water  (about4Ogls.),  and  some  baker's  : 
stock  yeast,  or  strong  hop  yeast,  to  start  a  fermenta- 
tion.   It  tastes  sufficiently  like  cider  to  sell  in  some  j 
places  in  immense  quantities,  to  the  great  profit  of 
the  vendors.  Is  ready  for  use  in  2  days  after  making 
if  moderately  warm. 

BURTA — Mashed  potatoes  as  served  in  India. 
A  large  green  pepper  and  six  spring  onions  minced 
very  finely,  the  juice  of  a  lemon  squeezed  over  them 
on  a  saucer.  A  dozen  boiled  potatoes  mashed,  and 
the  onions  and  pepper  mixed  in,  with  oil  or  butten 
and  salt.  Made  in  shape;  garnished  with  crayfish 
and  parsley. 

BUTTER— It  is  found  that,  no  matter  how  fresh 
butter  may  be  or  well  made,  if  it  is  white  it  is  not 
satisfactory  for  table  use.  The  color  of  butter  is  af- 
fected by  the  feed  of  the  cows,  green  grass  and 
clover  making  it  yellow;  consequently  winter  butter 
is  apt  to  be  -white,  but  may  be  as  good  otherwise. 
The  most  satisfactory  for  hotel  use  is  creamery  but- 
ter; it  is  always  alike,  being  colored  artificially, 
though  probably  less  at  some  seasons  than  others. 
Then  it  is  made  in  immense  quantities  at  once  and  is 
uniform  in  quality.  Certain  brands  of  creamery  are 
always  scarce  because  of  the  demand  regardless  of 
price. 

BUTTER  IMITATIONS— A  number  of  patents 
have  been  taken  out  for  making  artificial  butter,  or 
imitations.  The  first  was  by  a  French  chemist, 
Hippolyte  Mege,  in  1870.  He  was  employed  on  the 
Imperial  farm  at  Vincennes,  and  invented  OLEO- 
MARGARINE, which  is  based  on  the  particular  ob- 
servation that  cooked  fat  is  granulated,  therefore 
hard  and  brittle;  butter  is  not,  and  therefore  butter 
could  be  made  out  of  beef  fat,  not  cooked,  but  \vorked 
at  the  ordinary  temperature  of  the  cow's  body.  That 
is  what  oleomargarine  is  yet.  The  fat  is  made  warm 
in  steam  tanks,  pressed  by  hydraulic  pressure  which 
divides  it  into  stearine,  which  remains  in  the  sacks, 
and  butter  oil,  which  is  pressed  out,  and  this  is 
churned  either  with  milk  for  present  use,  the  milk 
improving  the  flavor,  or  with  water  if  long  keeping 


BUT 

is  the  object  in  view.     There  are  various  details, 
such  as  the  dividing  the  butter  oil  into  fine  particles 
ready  for  the  churning  with  milk,  but  in  substance 
that  is  all  there  is  in  oleomargarine.   If  cleanly  made 
it  is  as  good  as  ordinary  butter.   The  outcry  against 
it  has  been  from  the  makers  of  real  butter.  The  only 
objection  really  sound  was  the  selling  a  cheaply  pro- 
duced article  at  the  high  price  of  best  butter  by  pass- 
ing it  off  as  butter;  but  that  has  been  pretty  effectually 
stopped,  and  "margarine,"  as  the  name  now  is,  goes 
on  its  own  merits,  and  the  trade  in  it  is  constantly  in- 
creasing.    BUTTERINE  was  different,  being  a  mix- 
ture of  lard  and  butter;  ostensibly,  but  extreme  un- 
certainty may  well  be  supposed  to  exist  in  the  com- 
position of  it  when  the  following  patents  are  consid- 
dered.  NUT  OIL  BUTTER  — A  patent  was  Vaken  out  in 
1876  for  making  artificial  butter  from  oleine,  marga- 
rine from  fruit  and  vegetable  nuts,  lactic  acid  and 
loppered  milk.     "EDIBLE  FAT,"  with  chemicals; 
patent  1877.  Heating-  suet  at  140,  with  salt,  saltpeter, 
borax,  boracic  acid,  salycilic  acids,  withdrawing  the 
separated  fat  and  incorporating  therewith  a  second 
and  smaller  charge  of  the  above  chemicals,  with  the 
addition  of  benzoic  acid.    Patent  for  PRESERVING 
REAL  BUTTER  (iSSo)  by  incorporating  with  it  meta- 
phosphoric  acid.    OLEO-SOAP  BUTTER — Patent  iSSi 
for  adding  alkali  to  oleomargarine,  "agitating  the 
mixture  until  partial  saponification  ensues,  then  add- 
ing butyric  acid."    COTTON  SEED  BUTTER — Patent 
1882  for  combination  of  beef-suet  oil,  cotton-seed  oil, 
beef-stearine  and  slippery  elm  bark.     LARD  AND 
COTTON-OIL  BUTTER -Patent  1882  for  combination  of 
lard  oil  and  cotton-seed  oil,  "deodorized  and  purified 
bv  slippery  elm  bark  and  beef  stearine."    COCOANUT 
j  AND  COTTOX-OIL  BUTTER — Patent  1882  for  combina- 
;  tion  of  vegetable  stearine  from  nut  or  cotton   oil 
pressed  cold,  with  oleomargarine,   and    churning. 
OLEO,  LARD  AND  AQUA  FORTIS  BUTTER — Patent 
i  1882  for  combination  of  oleomargarine  and  leaf  lard, 
i  subjected  to  washing  action  in  water,    borax  and 
.  nitric  acid;  then  re- washed  and  churned.   THE  REAL 
BUTTERINE— Patent  1882  for  artificial  butter  made 
i  by  minutely  dividing  leaf  lard,  melting,  covering, 
I  salting  down  for  3  days,  mixing  it  with  lukewarm 
|  buttermilk,  clarified  tallow  and  little  pepsin;  adding 
1  half  its  weight  of  real  butter,  and  -working  in  cold 
|  water.     COTTON-OIL  AND  FLOUR-PASTE  BUTTER— 
Called   "Oleard."    Patent  1882;  "vegetable  oil  in 
combination  with  cooked  farinaceous  flour,"  the  oil 
treated  with  a  solution  of  caustic  soda.     MAKING 
i  Two  POUNDS  OUT  OF  OXE — Patent  1886  for  putting 
'.  into  a  churn  8  Ibs.  butter,  i  gallon  sweet  milk,  i  oz. 
liquid  rennet,  25  grains  (troy)  of  nitrate  of  potash, 
!  i  oz.  sugar,  %  teaspoon  of  butter-coloring;  churning 
|  all,    and    working.      .(Vote-Milk  and   butter   w  arm 
can  be  mingled  by  stirring  together  gradually;  the 
i  additions  specified  are  to  make  the  combination  hold 
''  when  cold. — Notwithstanding  the  possibilities  out- 
lined in  these  patents,  there  is  very  little  more  than 
a  local  practice  of  the  methods.     Oleomargarine  is 
the  same  as  Mege  invented  in   1870,  viz.:  beef  fat 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


261 


BUT 

melted  or  cooked  at  150  degrees;  the  oil  pressed  out 
and  churned  with  milk.  Butterine  is  a  mixture  of 
the  above  with  leaf  lard  salted,  colored  and  churned, 
the  milk  it  is  churned  with  giving  the  butter  flavor. 
State  commissioners  have  reported  favorably  upon 
the  products  of  the  large  factories  where  fresh  fat 
from  the  slaughter-houses  is  of  necessity  the  mate- 
rial used.  To  DISTINGUISH  BUTTERINE — The  fol- 
lowing simple  method  has  been  suggested  for  ap- 
proximately judging  of  the  purity  of  a  specimen  of 
butter:  Melt  the  butter,  and  then  coolit  as  rapidly 
as  possible  by  means  of  some  ice-cylinder  put  into 
it.  Lard,  which  is  a  copious  constituent  of  butterine, 
will  sink  to  the  bottom,  and  any  genuine  butter 
will  rise,  while  there  will  be  a  distinctly  visible  zone 
or  line  of  contact  between  the  two.  BUTTER*  TO 
KEEP  FRESH — Washing  in  cold  water  till  free  from 
buttermilk,  salt  and  sugar  added  in  equal  quantities, 
and  packed  in  jars  and  kept  cold  it  will  keep  fresh 
for  a  year.  A  TEST  FOR  BUTTER — There  is  a  qual- 
itative test  for  butter  so  simple  that  any  housewife 
can  put  it  into  successful  practice.  A  clean  piece  of 
white  paper  is  smeared  with  the  suspected  butter. 
The  paper  is  then  rolled  up  and  set  on  fire.  If  the 
butter  is  pure  the  smell  of  the  burning  paper  is 
rather  pleasant;  but  the  odor  is  distinctly  tallow  if 
the  "butter"  is  made  up  wholly  or  in  part  of  animal 
fats. 

BUTTER -BALL  DUCK— A  wild  duck  a  little 
larger  than  a  teal;  good  quality;  generally  very  fat; 
suitable  for  broiling,  and  often  takes  the  place  of  teal. 
In  season  November,  December,  January  and  Feb- 
ruary. 

BUTTER  BEANS— Lima  beans. 

BUTTER-FISH  — Small  fish,  fried  like  small 
trout  or  whitebait. 

BUTTER  PIE— A  bakery  specialty;  a  flour  and 
butter  custard  made  without  eggs;  baked  in  a  crust. 

BUTTER  ROLLS— A  variety  of  French  bread; 
rolls  with  butter  worked  in  the  dough;  made  flat  to 
split,  and  butter  spread  inside.  Served  hot. 

BUTTER  SCOTCH  — Taffy,  a  brown  kind  of 
candy;  made  by  boiling  moist  sugar  and  butter  to- 
gether to  the  crack,  and  cooling  in  sheets  in  shallow 
pans.  Also  a  sweet  cake  sold  at  some  shops. 

BUTTERED  APPLES— Quartered  apples  baked 
with  butter  and  sugar;  served  on  fried  bread. 

BUTTERED  EGGS— Eggs  soft  scrambled  in  a 
saucepan,  set  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water,  with  plenty 
of  butter. 

BUTTER  NUT— Kind  of  walnut,  longer  in  shape 
and  harder  shell  than  the  black  walnut.  Also  the 
souari  nut  of  Demerara. 

BUTTS  OF  BEEF— One  of  the  new  cuts  of  the 
packing  houses;  the  buttock  cut  in  two  or  three; 
boneless,  good  for  second-rate  steaks,  and  lower  in 
price  than  choice  loins. 


CAB 

C. 

CABARET—  (Fr.)— A  wine  shop. 

CABBAGE— Most  ancient  of  vegetables  used  for 
food  and  still  popular;  classed  among  the  most  nu- 
tritious, containing  nitrogen,  the  same  as  meat, 
which  causes  its  strong  odor.  ODOR  OF  BOILING 
CABBAGE — Three  remedies  which  prevent  the  offen- 
sive smell  are:  (/)-borax  in  the  water,  (2y-3.  piece  of 
bread  tied  up  in  muslin  and  boiled  with  it,  (^)-a 
large  lump  of  charcoal  tied  up  and  boiled  with  it. 
BUBBLE  AND  SQUEAK — Is  a  dish  of  fried  cabbage 
and  beef.  CABBAGE  AU  GRATIN — Boiled  cabbage 
in  layers  with  grated  cheese  and  butter,  pepper  and 
salt,  with  breadcrumbs  or  cracker  dust  on  top; 
baked.  CABBAGE  A  LA  MILANAISE — Cooked  cab- 
bage in  a  dish,  thin  broiled  ham  on  top,  butter  sauce 
poured  over,  grated  cheese  for  top  crust,  baked. 
CABBAGE  SPROUTS  WITH  EGGS— The  young  sprouts 
from  cabbage  stalks  boiled;  an  omelet  laid  flat  on 
dipped  toast  and  cabbage  sprouts  on  top  of  omelet. 
CABBAGE  STEWED  WITH  BUTTER — Young  cabbage 
quartered  and  blanched,  cut  small  and  fried  in  but- 
ter, broth  added,  stewed  down,  little  white  sauce  or 
flour  to  finish.  CABBAGE  A  I.A  ST.  DENIS — Stuffed 
with  sausage  meat,  wrapped  with  slices  of  fat  pork, 
stewed  with  flavoring  of  sherry  in  broth,  sauce 
poured  over  cabbage  when  served.  PAUPIETTES  OF 
CABBAGE  A  LA  MILANAISE  —  Cabbage  leaves 
blanched,  sausage  meat,  parboiled  rice  shallots  and 
parsley  mixed  and  rolled  up  three  leaves  thick;  sim- 
mered in  saucepan  close  packed  for  an  hour.  CAB- 
BAGE A  LA  NAVARRAISE — Stewed  in  butter  and 
broth  flavored  with  garlic,  cloves,  etc.  CHOUX 
FARCIS — Stuffed  with  sausage  meat,  same  as  St. 
Denis.  CHOUX  EN  SURPRISE— Cabbage  stuffed  with 
chestnuts.  CREAMED  CABBAGE — Boiled,  drained, 
stirred  up  in  a  saucepan  with  butter  and  cream. 
CABBAGE  A  LA  LILLOISE —Fried  cabbage,  put  in 
raw;  chopped,  with  onion  and  butter.  BOILED- 
CABBAGE  AND  BACON — Quarters  of  summer  cabbage 
boiled  green  and  drained,  a  slice  of  bacon  on  each. 
CABBAGE  A  L'ALLEMANDE — Boiled,  drained,  chop- 
ped, boiled  bacon  cut  in  dice  mixed  with  it  and 
little  white  sauce.  BAKED  CABBAGE — Cooked  cab- 
bage minced,  in  layers  with  minced  cold  meat  in  a 
dish  lined  with  crumbs,  and  bacon  on  top;  to  be 
turned  out  whole.  RED  CABBAGE  WITH  SAUSAGES 
— Stewed  with  broth  and  vinegar;  boiled  sausages 
around  in  the  dish.  RED  CABBAGE  A  LA  FLAMANDE 
— Fried  salt  pork,  shredded  cabbage  and  sliced 
apples  together,  broth  and  brandy  added,  and  fin- 
ished in  covered  pan  in  the  oven.  PICKLED  CAB- 
BAGE— White  is  generally  colored  yellow  with  tur- 
meric; red  cabbage  is  usually  preferred  for  pickling. 
CABBAGE  SALAD  OR  COLD  SLAW — (/)  Plain  white 
solid  cabbage  shaved  as  fine  as  hay,  seasoned  with 
salt,  vinegar,  'etc. ;  generally  served  with  oysters. 
(s)-Chopped  cabbage  and  apples,  salt,  vinegar, 
pepper  and  capers.  HOT  SLAW — Shaved  cabbage 
in  hot  creamy  sauce  of  vinegar,  water,  butter,  eggs, 


262 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


CAB 

salt,  sugar;  scalded,  not  boiled.  SAUERKRAUT — 
Shaved  cabbage  in  layers  in  a  barrel  with  salt  be- 
tween, pressed  down  and  kept  till  it  becomes  sour. 
CABBAGE  SOUPS  —  Consomme  Paysanne  contains 
shred  cabbage;  and  vegetable  soup  with  a  salt  pork 
or  corned  beef  seasoning  and  large  proportion  of 
cabbage.  CABBAGE  TO  KEEP — Burying  in  a  bank 
of  earth,  heads  downwards  and  stalks  and  roots  left 
on,  covered  with  a  foot  of  earth,  is  found  to  be  the 
best  way.  CABBAGE  AS  A  PANACEA — Hippocrates 
had  a  peculiar  affection  for  cabbage.  Should  one 
of  his  patients  be  seized  with  a  violent  colic,  he  at 
once  prescribed  a  dish  of  boiled  cabbage  with  salt. 
Erasistratus  looked  upon  it  as  a  sovereign  remedy 
against  paralysis.  Pythagoras  and  several  other 
learned  philosophers  wrote  books  in  which  they 
celebrated  the  marvelous  virtues  of  the  cabbage. 

CABILLAUD  (Fr.)— Codfish. 

CABBAGE  PALM  or  PALM  CABBAGE— 
Edible  young  leaves  and  heart  of  a  palm  tree  which 
grows  in  Florida  and  southward. 

CABINET  PUDDING— A  mould  or  pan  nearly 
filled  with  slices  of  cake,  wi  h  sultana  raisins  and 
cut  citron  between  the  layers;  a  custard  mixture  of 
«ggs  and  milk  poured  over;  baked.  STEAMED  CAB- 
INET PUDDING — A  mould  ornamentally  lined  with 
raisins  and  citron  and  soft  butter;  filled  with  sponge 
cake,  macaroons  and  custard;  steamed  and  turned 
out  whole.  COLD  CABINET  PUDDING — A  charlotte 
russe  made  with  lady  fingers  and  small  macaroons 
lining  a  mould,  filled  up  with  yellow  custard  con- 
taining gelatine  td  set  it. 

CACTUS  LEAVES  CANDIED— The  thick, 
fleshv  leaves  of  a  cactus,  crystallized  in  sugar,  forms 
one  of  the  articles  of  export  from  Mexico. 

CACAO — The  cacao  (pronounced  ka-ka'-o)  bean 
is  the  fruit  of  the  cacao  tree,  a  native  of  Mexico, 
but  now  cultivated  in  all  tropical  countries.  It  is  a 
small  tree,  from  16  to  18  feet  high,  and  the  seeds 
are  the  parts  used  for  food.  They  are  contained  in 
a  large-pointed  oval  pod,  from  6  iri.  to  10  in.  long. 
This  pod  contains  much  sweet  and  whitish  pulp, 
and  from  50  to  100  seeds,  or  beans  as  they  are  usually 
called.  When  dried  and  roasted,  and  separated 
from  the  husk,  the  beans  form  cocoa;  chocolate  is 
prepared  by  grinding  the  roasted  beans  with  sugar 
and  flavoring  essences  and  then  pressing  the  paste 
thus  made  into  cakes. 

CAERPHILLY  CHEESE— A  special  kind  pro- 
duced in  Wales. 

CAFE  (Fr.)— Coffee;  also  coffee  house.  CAFE  AU 
LAIT— Boiled  milk  and  coffee  in  equal  parts,  little 
cream.  CAFE  NOIR — Strongest  black  coffee,  and 
sugar  to  taste.  CAFE  GLORiA-Good  bright  breakfast 
coffee  and  cognac,  equal  quantities,  with  sugar;  this 
can  be  set  on  fire  with  brandy  on  top.  CAFE  GRA- 
XITO — Frozen  coffee  well  sweetened;  no  additions 
but  sugar,  served  semi-fluid  in  small  cups.  LIQUEUR 
DE  CAFE— Strong,  clear  coffee,  strong  sugar  syrup, 
and  spirit,  equal  parts.  RATAFIA  DE  CAFE— A 


CAL 

pound  of  ground  coffee  steeped  ten  days  in  a  quart 
of  spirit,  strained,  added  to  a  quart  each  of  syrup 
and  water,  flavored  with  spices  and  almonds.  CAFE 
A  LA  CREME  FRAPPE—  Caje  au  lait  set  in  ice  till 
half  frozen;  better  when  made  with  cream  in  the 
coffee,  instead  of  milk.  SOUFFLE  AU  CAFE — Frangi- 
pane  with  white  of  eggs,  flavored  with  coffee,  baked 
in  souffle  cases.  SOUFFLE  AU  CAFE  VIERGE. — The 
same  with  green  coffee  flavor.  CREME  DE  CAFE — 
Coffee  ice  cream. 

CAILLES  (Fr.)— Quails. 

CAISSES  (Fr.) — Little  cases  of  paper  or  wafer 
paste,  size  of  patty  pans  or  tumb.ers  and  of 
various  shapes,  for  serving  souffles  and  small  meats, 
also  for  ices,  as  biscuits  glaces. 

CAKES — Various  kinds  may  be  found  mentioned 
under  their  respective  letters. 

C ALLIES  —  Dealers'  name  for  large  deep-sea 
oysters,  set  apart  for  cooking  purposes;  smaller 
ones  being  better  to  serve  raw. 

CALIPASH— The  meat  attached  to  the  back  or 
upper  shell  of  the  turtle. 

CALIPEE— The  meat  attached  to  the  belly  or 
lower  shell  of  the  turtle.  In  consequence  of  the 
prominence  given  to  turtle  by  its  adoption  at  the 
stupendous  civic  banquets  in  London  as  the  leading 
luxury  for  the  past  150  years,  a  knowledge  of  the 
parts  and  ways  of  cooking  is  essential  to  a  gastro- 
nomic education.  (See  turtle.) 

CALF'S  BRAINS— See  brains. 

CALF'S  EARS — Are  cooked  separate  from  the 
head  in  various  ways.  OREILLES  DE  VEAU  FARCIS 
— Calf's  ears  first  boiled  tender,  stuffed  with  any 
savory  stuffing  of  minced  bacon,  onions  and  bread, 
or  sausage  meat  and  bread,  or  chicken  stuffing, 
breaded  and  fried.  OREILLES  DE  VEAU  EN  MARI- 
NADE— Boiled  tender,  steeped  in  seasoned  vinegar, 
drained,  dipped  in  batter  and  fried.  OREILLES  DE 
VEAU  AUX  CHAMPIGNONS — Calf's  ears  boiled  ten- 
ter, served  in  a  brown  sauce  with  mushrooms,  and 
yolks  of  eggs  for  garnish.  CALF'S  EARS  STUFFED, 
TOMATO  SAUCE — Simmered  tender  in  stock  with 
vinegar,  stuffed  as  above,  breaded  and  fried,  served 
with  tomato  sauce,  and  parsley  and  lemons  for  gan, 
nish.  CALF'S  EARS  A  LA  LYONNAISE— Cooked  ears 
cut  in  shreds;  fried  onions  in  gravy  and  the  calf's 
ears  mixed  in.  CALF'S  EARS  A  LA  BECHAMEL— 
Ears  cut  off  deeply,  cere  removed  with  round  cutter, 
boiled  an  hour  in  milk  and  water,  stuffed  with  veal 
forcemeat,  tied,  simmered  in  seasoned  broth;  taken 
up,  sauce  strained  and  thickened,  mushrooms  and 
parsley  added.  OREILLES  DE  VEAU  A  LA  NAPOLI- 
TAINE — Stuffed  with  bread  and  cheese  stuffing,  with 
butter  and  volks,  breaded  and  fried. 

CALF'S  HEAD— It  is  useless  if  skinned  as  many 
country  butchers  send  it  in  after,  perhaps,  repeated 
requests.  The  head  can  be  cleaned  by  scalding, 
same  as  a  pig,  and  scraping.  A  little  lye,  ashes  or 
soda  in  the  water  assists  the  operation.  The  head 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


263 


CAL 

after  being  scraped  is  singed,  then  beginning  at  the 
throat  the  skin  and  meat  is  all  taken  off  the  bones 
by  close  cutting  under  with  the  point  of  a  knife,  and 
next  the  tongue  taken  out,  the  head  split  and  brains 
taken  out.  CALF'S  HEAD  BOILED — Cooked  in  sea- 
soned stock  about  an  hour  or  more,  taken  up,  pressed 
between  dishes;  when  cold  cut  to  shapes  and  served 
in  various  ways.  CALF'S  HEAD  A  LA  POULETTE — 
Cream -colored  sauce  with  mushrooms,  calf's  head 
sliced  in  it,  garnished.  CALF'S  HEAD  A  LA  MENE- 
HOULD — Slices  dipped  in  thick  sauce  (Duxelles), 
then  in  cracker  dust,  then  in  egg  and  dust  again, 
and  baked  or  fried.  TETE  DE  VEAU  EN  MOULE — 
Calf's  head  minced,  layers  in  a  mould  with  minced 
ham  between,  thick  gravy  to  moisten,  baked,  turned 
out  whole;  the  mould  is  lined  with  bread  crumbs 
and  butter.  TETE  DE  VEAU  A  LA  FINANCIER  E— 
Square  pieces  or  slices  with  fnanciere  garnish  of 
mushrooms,  wine,  etc.  CALF'S  HEAD  A  L'ITALI- 
EXNE— Boiled,  sliced,  with  Italian  sauce  poured 
over.  CALF'S  HEAD  A  LA  DESTILIERE — Pieces  in 
center  of  dish,  brain  sliced  on  top,  tongue  cut  in 
dice,  sliced  gherkins,  button  mushrooms  in  espa- 
gnole  and  wine  sauce  poured  over.  CALF'S  HEAD 
WITH  EGGS — Slices  in  mushroom  sauce  garnished 
with  an  egg.  round-fried  like  a  fritter,  in  plenty  of 
oil  or  lard.  CALF'S  HEAD  A  LA  TORTUE— The  cold 
pressed  head  cut  in  squares,  made  hot  in  rich 
gravy  with  little  tomato  sauce,  wine,  mushrooms, 
forcemeat  balls,  hard  egg  yolks,  olives,  etc.  CALF'S 
HEAD  SOUP — A  light-colored  soup  having  chopped 
green  vegetables,  seasoned  with  herbs,  half-fried 
onions,  anchovy  essence,  the  calf's  head  cut  in  dice 
in  it.  MOCK  TURTLE  SOUP,  CLEAR — Brown  con- 
somme", with  cubes  of  pressed  calf's  head,  egg  balls 
and  parsley.  MOCK  TURTLE  LIEE,  OR  THICK — 
Brown,  made  with  calf's  head  and  finished  same  as 
turtle  soup.  TURBAN  DE  TETE  DE  VEAU — Pieces  of 
cooked  and  pressed  calf's  head,  made  hot  in  any 
sauce  or  ragout,  dished  up  in  crown  shape,  perhaps 
on  a  foundation  of  bread  or  rice  (see  illustration  on 
page  117),  and  the  sauce  poured  over;  the  name  is 
according  to  the  sauce.  CALF'S  HEAD  CHEESE — 
Similar  to  pig's  head  cheese  or  brawn. 

CALF'S  FEET— Are  freed  from  bones  after 
cooking,  cut  up  and  fricasseed,  white  or  brown;  or 
served  with  any  of  the  well-known  sauces,  such  as 
tomato,  hollandaise,  parsley,  piquante,  caper,  etc. 
CALF'S  FOOT  SOUP — A  cream  soup  of  boiled  calves' 
fef t,  celery  and  other  vegetables,  cream,  white  wine 
and  raw  yolks  for  final  thickening.  CALF'S  FOOT 
JELLY — Nearly  all  wine  and  other  table  jellies  and 
creams  for  sweet  dinner  and  ball  supper  dishes 
were  formerly  made  bv  boiling  down  calves'  feet  to 
a  jelly,  then  sweetening,  flavoring,  clarifying  and 
filtering  it.  One  foot  makes  one  quart  of  jelly.  A 
shorter  method  is  now  to  use  the  prepared  gelatine. 
Calves'  feet  enrich  soup  stocks,  and  are  good  for 
making  aspic  jelly. 

CALF'S  LIVER— See  liver. 

CALF'S  SWEETBREADS— See  sweetbreads. 


CAN 

CALF'S  TAIL  SOUP— White  soup;  the  tails  in 
short  pieces  stewed,  vegetables,  mushrooms,  slice 
of  bacon,  inch  of  lemon  rind  in  the  strained  stock, 
corn  starch,  milk,  nutmeg,  glass  white  wine,  pieces 
of  calves'  tails  added  last. 

CAMEMBERT -One  of  the  favorite  cheeses  for 
recherche  dinners;  can  be  bought  of  the  importing 
grocers;  is  a  flat-shaped,  "salt-soft"  cheese  of  only  a 
few  pounds'  weight;  costs  about  double  the  price  of 
ordinary  cheese.  Where  they  are  made  Camemberts 
are  dried  for  a  month  in  a  carefully  constructed  room 
with  a  peculiar  system  of  ventilation.  They  are  then 
ripened  for  about  the  same  length  of  time  in  a  cur- 
ing cellar,  called  a  cave  de perfection,  where  they  are 
watched  and  treated  with  the  greatest  care.  The 
formation  of  the  white  mould  and  the  development 
of  the  red  spots  on  their  surface  are  observed  with 
great  anxiety,  and  every  little  cheese  is  turned  or 
left  according  to  circumstances. 

CANAPES— Literally  couches,  sofas,  but  in  cul- 
inary language  pieces  of  toast  or  bread  with  some- 
thing spread  upon  them.  CANAPES  AUX  ANCHOIS — 
Chopped  anchovies  and  eggs  on  fried  bread.  CAN- 
APES AU  FROMAGE— Cheese  melted  in  the  oven  on 
fried  bread.  CANAPES  A  LA  PRINCE  DE  GALLE* — 
Mixture  of  anchovies,  ham,  truffles,  gherkins,  oil  and 
vinegar  in  small  hollowed  rolls,  decorated  with  aspic 
mayonnaise.  CANAPES  A  LA  WINDSOR — Chicken, 
ham,  cheese,  anchovies,  butter,  cayenne,  salt, 
pounded  to  a  paste  together,  passed  through  a  seive, 
spread  on  fried  bread,  crumbs  on  top;  baked  a  few 
minutes.  CANAPES  OF  SARDINES — Strips  of  fried 
bread  spread  with  sardine  butter  made  by  pounding 
sardines  -with  hard-boiled  yolks  and  butter,  mixed 
with  parsley,  mustard,  etc.;  a  boneless,  half  sardine 
on  each  one;  served  hot.  CANAPES  OF  SHRIMPS — 
Fried  rounds  of  bread  spread  with  thick  shrimp 
sauce  and  picked  shrimps  enough  to  cover  the  sauce. 
CANAPES  DE  VOLAILLE — Chicken  canape's  or  sand- 
wiches with  buttered  bread,  shred  lettuce,  mayon- 
naise sauce  on  the  lettuce,  breast  of  chicken  and 
fillets  of  anchovy  next,  and  bread  on  top. 

CANARY  YELLOW— Chrome  yellow;  poison- 
ous coloring.  Its  use  by  bakers  is  forbidden  by  law. 

CANARDS  (Fr.)— Ducks. 

CANDIED  YAMS— The  large,  sweet  potatoes 
called  yams  are  boiled,  sliced,  laid  in  a  pan  with 
sugar,  butter,  very  little  water  and  nutmeg,  and 
slowly  baked.  Served  hot  for  dinner  with  the  veg- 
etables. 

CANDIED  FRUITS— (See  crystalized  fruits.) 

CANETONS  (Fr.)— Ducks.  Usually  applied  to 
tame  ducks.  CANARD  SAUVAGE — Wild  duck. 

CANE  SYRUP  AND  SUGAR— Meaning  the 
product  of  the  sugar  cane;  not  sorghum,  nor  beet 
sugar,  nor  glucose,  nor  maple. 

CANDLE-FISH— A  long,  eel-like  fish  of  the  ex- 
treme north,  eatable,  oily;  when  dried  is  burned  like 
a  candle. 


264 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


CAN 

CANNEBERGES  (Fr.)-Cranberries. 
CANNELONS  (Fr.)— Canes;  fried  rolls  of  puff 
paste  little  larger  than  a  finger,  having  a  pith  of 
either  minced  meat  or  of  jam  inside.  CANNELONS 
BAKED — Are  brushed  over  with  egg  and  water  be- 
fore baking.  Afate-Fried  cannslons  are  now  usually 
called  rissoles. 

CANNED  MEATS— Are  robbed  of  their  juices 
when  put  up  in  the  factories;  the  natural  gravies  are 
taken  to  make  meat  extracts  and  canned  soups,  and 
replaced  with  water  in  the  canned  meats. 

CANNED  GOODS— There  is  the  utmost  need 
for  the  hotel  buyer  to  post  himself  early  on  the  sub- 
ject of  canned  goods.  The  margins  are  sometimes 
as  great  in  proportion  to  prices  as  in  the  case  of 
wines.  Some  merchants  will  make  astonishingly 
low  prices  for  ordinary  provisions  and  groceries  if 
the  buyer  will  let  them  supply  the  canned  goods  at 
list  prices.  This  is  because  of  the  great  variations 
of  quality  of  these  goods  and  also  the  fluctuations  in 
prices  dependent  upon  the  fruit  or  vegetable  harvest 
being  good,  or  otherwise.  Goods  which  retail  or- 
dinarily at  20  cents  a  can  may  often  be  bought  by 
the  case  at  5  or  6  cents,  and  generally  at  looriz. 
Among  the  fine  goods  there  are  grades  according  to 
strength  of  syrup  and  selection  of  fruit.  There  are 
peas  which  are  only  dried  peas  cooked  and  canned, 
and  others,  the  finest  green  June  peas,  better  than  if 
fresh  bought  in  market;  but  the  inexperienced  may 
have  to  pay  as  much  for  one  as  the  other.  And  the 
hotel  buyer  should  get  everything  in  gallon  cans 
and  kegs,  as  near  as  possible,  not  pay  for  loads  of 
small  bottles,  jars  and  labels. 

CANNING — There  are  two  principal  methods; 
one  is  to  fill  the  cans  with  raw  goods,  like  the 
French  peas,  with  sufficient  water  and  perhaps  some 
coloring  agent  to  green  them;  solder  them  tight,  and 
throw  them  into  a  boiling  kettle  where  they  remain 
for  3  or  4  hours.  The  other  way  is  commonly  known, 
consisting  in  cooking  the  cans  of  vegetables  and 
fruit  in  steam  closets,  there  being  an  aperture  in  the 
top  of  each  can  which  is  closed  up  with  solder  after 
the  contents  are  cooked  and  while  still  hot. 

CANTELOUPES— The  nutmeg  melon.  Plenti- 
ful in  summer  and  fall  and  used  by  the  wagon  load 
in,  our  hotels;  kept  on  ice,  washed,  dried,  cut  in 
halves,  broken  ice  strewed  over;  served  a  half  to 
each  person,  unless  very  large,  when  a  quarter  may 
be  enough.  Eaten  with  salt  and  pepper. 

CANTERBURY  PUDDINGS  — Individual,  in 
cups.  Very  rich  pound  cake  mixture  of  2  oz.  each 
butter,  sugar  and  flour,  2  eggs  whipped  light,  lemon 
rind  to  flavor;  baked  in  buttered  cups;  wine  or  brandy 
sauce. 

CANTON  GINGER— Preserved  ginger  root,  a 
sort  of  candy;  especially  valuable  in  fruit  ice-creams, 
ginger-ice,  tutti-frutti,  choice  small  cakes,  steamed 
puddings  and  wherever  citron  is  used.  It  has  an 
agreeable  pungency.  It  comes  principally  from  Chy- 


CAN 

loong's  factory  in  Canton;  costs  here  from  30  to-joc. 
per  pound.  "  Old  Chyloong  shows  with  pride  how 
the  root  is  brought  to  him  and  put  through  all  the 
processes.  It  is  scraped,  soaked  in  water  for  five 
days,  picked  with  forks,  boiled  in  water,  soaked  for 
two  days  in  rice-flour  water,  boiled  again,  soaked  in 
lime  water,  boiled  some  more  and  finally  boiled  with 
its  equal  weight  of  brown  sugar  and  put  up  in  the 
round  ginger  jars  sacred  to  high  art,  young  ladies 
and  the  Dusantes  mantlepiece.  The  dried  ginger 
goes  through  all  these  processes,  and  is  then  dried 
in  the  sun.  The  mixed  Cantonese  preserves,  con- 
taining bits  of  citron,  sugar-cane,  melon  rinds,  cum- 
quats  and  persimmons,  are  made  at  the  same  place, 
and  Chvloong  is  a  purveyor  as  widely  known  to  the 
civilized  world  as  Crosse  &  Blackwell,  and  no  doubt 
a  millionaire." 

CANTON  BUNS— Sweet  cakes  made  of  }£  Ib. 
each  butter  and  sugar,  2  eggs,  J^  oz.  ammonia,  }£ 
cup  milk,  i %  Ibs.  flour;  in  balls  dipped  in  egg  on  top 
and  little  rough  lumps  sugar  and  an  almond;  baked. 

CANVAS-BACK  DUCK  — "Mr.  Dion  Bouci- 
cault  recently  sent  Mr.  Irving  a  present  of  American 
dainties,  which  where  served  at  some  supper  parties 
which  have  been  given  in  the  beefsteak  room  at  the 
Lyceum  after  the  performance.  Mr.  Irving's 
opinion  having  been  required,  he  cabled  to  the 
doner:  'Our  verdict  is:  perfect.  Perfect  terrapin, 
the  finest  soup  known.  Canvas -back  ducks 
ethereal.'  A  celebrated  novelist  who  visited  the 
States  a  few  years  ago,  gave  up  all  engagements  in 
order  to  dine  with  a  gourmet  twelve  days  running 
on  canvas-back  ducks  and  champagne.  It  is 
strange  that  the  canvas-back  duck  can  never  be 
caught  alive.  A  prominent  caterer  of  New  York 
has  been  trying  for  three  years  to  execute  a  com- 
mission of  Lord  Tarbets",  second  son  of  the  Duke 
of  Sutherland,  who  sent  over  for  two  pairs  of  live 
canvas-backs.  There  is  a  standing  offer  of  $50  a 
pair  for  them,  but  as  yet  no  one  has  got  it.  It  is 
impossible  to  net  them  as  you  do  other  ducks;  the 
only  chance  is  to  wound  one  badly  enough  to  cap- 
ture him,  but  not  severely  enough  to  kill  him. 
Though  many  persons  annually  enjoy  the  sport  of 
shooting  canvas-back  ducks,  the  joy  of  Maryland 
sportsmen  and  the  pride  of  Baltimore  epicures,  few 
have  probably  thought  of  the  summer  homes  of  the 
ducks,  where  the  vacancies  in  their  number,  caused 
by  the  industry  of  winter  fowlers,  are  filled  by 
young  birds.  The  ducks  are  found  along  the  At- 
lantic coast  as  far  north  as  Canada,  but  they  migrate 
in  the  greatest  numbers  in  the  fall  to  the  Chesa- 
peake Bay  and  its  tributaries,  where  they  find  their 
favorite  food,  the  Taluneiia,  or  wild  celery,  a  fresh- 
water plant,  whose  roots  they  feed  upon,  and  which 
gives  them  the  juiciness  and  peculiar  flavor  which 
distinguishes  them  from  other  ducks  and  atones  for 
their  comparative  lack  of  bright  plumage.  They 
follow  winter  down  the  Atlantic  coast,  and  remain 
in  the  Chesapeake  waters  during  the  winter 
months.  When  the  spring  opening  occurs,  they 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


265 


CAN 

wing  their  way  across  the  country  in  a  north-west- 
ward direction,  and  spend  the  summer  months 
breeding  and  raising  their  young  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  cool  waters  of  the  upper  Rocky  Moun- 
tain system,  and  in  all  the  far  countries  north  of  the 
fiftieth  degree,  north  latitude.  There  alone  can 
their  eggs  be  obtained.  A  well-known  restaurateur 
of  this  city  conceived  the  idea  of  raising  canvas- 
back  ducks  in  Baltimore.  He  procured  two  crippled 
birds  —  a  male  and  female  —  but  his  experiments 
were  xmsuccessful,  as  the  birds  pined  for  the  cool 
air  of  the  British  American  forests.  The  canvas- 
back  duck  is  the  royalty  of  ducks.  No  other  ap- 
proaches him  within  the  circumference  of  the  earth. 
His  delicacy  of  flavor  and  his  rare  and  melting  juic- 
iness are  attributable  to  his  delicate  feeding,  which 
is  wholly  on  wild  celery.  This  duck  must  be  roasted 
at  a  rapid  fire;  brownly — almost  blackly — crisp,  and 
served  without  one  gout  of  sauce  or  flavor,  and  with 
no  condiment  save  a  modicum  of  salt  and  some 
sticks  of  white  crisp  celery.  It  is  a  kind  of  barbar- 
ism to  disguise  in  wine  or  jelly  the  melting  natural 
richness  of  this  bird;  and  if  properly  cooked,  his 
own  crimson  gravy  will  be  abundant  and  delicious. 
Knowing  that  having  got  your  duck  the  next  thing 
is  to  eat  him,  the  reporter  called  upon  a  well-known 
caterer  for  information  as  to  the  proper  way  of  cook- 
ing the  bird.  Here,  to  his  surprise,  he  met  with  a 
statement  which  contradicts  all  the  encyclopaedias 
since  the  canvas -back  duck  was  given  a  place 
therein.  He  was  informed  that  the  canvas-back 
duck  does  not  eat  wild  celery.  It  has  been  popularly 
supposed  that  the  superiority  of  the  Havre  de  Grace 
and  Potomac  River  birds  was  due  to  the  fact  that 
they  ate  nothing  but  wild  celery,  but  this  famous 
caterer  says  that  they  feed  upon  a  plant  called  vales- 
neria,  the  roots  of  which  are  covered  with  thousands 
of  little  insects  extremely  acceptable  to  the  palate  of 
the  canvas-back.  However  this  may  be,  there  is 
no  doubt  that  when  you  get  a  canvas -back  you 
should  cook  him  as  follows:  Loose  as  little  of  the 
juice  or  blood  as  possible.  The  best  way  is  to  split 
him  down  the  back  after  plucking  and  singeing  him 
very  carefully.  Then  lay  him  on  a  gridiron  with 
the  spli  side  toward  the  fire;  keep  him  flat  on  the 
gridiron  either  by  pressing  him  down  with  the  other 
half  of  the  gridiron  or  by  putting  on  a  weight  suf- 
ficient heavy  for  the  purpose,  but  not  heavy  enough 
to  bruise  the  meat.  Let  him  remain  over  the  fire  for 
twelve  or  fifteen  minutes;  then  take  him  off  and  ex- 
pose the  breast  to  the  heat  for  a  moment,  just  long 
enough  to  brown  the  skin  nicely,  and  then  serve 
him  immediately  before  he  has  a  chance  to  get  cool. 
A  salad  of  celery  with  a  mayonnaise  dressing  is  the 
proper  thing  to  eat  with  him.  This  with  a  bottle  of 
very  dry  champagne  frappee  makes  a  course  for  a 
king.  CANVAS-BACK  IN  SEASON* — Its  season  lasts  6 
months,  November  to  April,  inclusive;  the  first  half 
of  the  season  being  its  prime.  ROAST  CANVAS-BACK 
— Singed,  drawn,  wiped  inside  with  a  cloth  and 
dusted  with  salt.  Trussed  with  the  head  closing 


CAP 

the  upper  opening,  the  rump  the  lower  one;  roasted 
in  hot  oven  about  25  minutes.  Dusted  with  salt, 
spoonful  of  water  inside  to  increase  the  gravy, 
served  on  a  hot  dish;  celery  and  currant  jelly  served 
separate. 

CAPERCAILZIE— A  variety  of  grouse  in  Nor- 
way and  Scotland,  similar  to  the  spruce  grouse  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  feed  on  pine  leaves  in 
winter.  Require  to  be  hung  to  make  them  tender, 
and  the  breasts  larded.  Cooked  as  grouse  and 
prairie  hens.  COLD  CAPERCAILZIE  PIE — Meat  taken 
off  the  bones  and  partly  fried  in  butter,  then  briefly 
steeped  in  marinade  of  vinegar,  onion,  nutmeg, 
pepper.  Sausage  meat  mixed  with  bread  crumbs 
and  chopped  yolks  made.  Pie  dish  bottom  covered 
with  sliced  bacon,  meat  and  sausage  forcemeat  in 
alternate  layers,  wine,  lemon  slices,  buttered  paper; 
no  top  crust;  baked  in  slow  oven  several  hours; 
eaten  cold. 

CAPERS — Pickled  green  berries  of  a  shrub,  an 
old-time  favorite  relish  to  eat  with  mutton.  Can  be 
bought  in  cheaper  ways  than  by  the  small  bottle; 
there  are  gallon  jars  and  kegs  of  different  sizes. 

CAPER  SAUCE-  Butter  sauce  with  capers  and 
some  of  the  caper  vinegar  mixed  in.  PUREE  OF 
CAPERS — Another  caper  sauce  made  by  pounding 
'capers  through  a  strainer  or  seive  and  mixing  the 
pulp  with  butter  sauce  hot,  or  with  softened  butter 
cold.  Used  for  boiled  and  broiled  fish,  mutton, 
lamb,  tongue,  tripe,  etc. 

CAPER  SUBSTITUTES— The  flower  of  the 
marsh  marigold  are  used,  and  the  pods  of  the  nas- 
turtium flower  pickled;  these  are  thought  to  be  as 
good  as  capers. 

CAPOLITADE  DE  VOLAILLE— Pieces  of 
fowl  in  Italian  sauce,  with  capers. 

CAPON— A  sterilized  fowl  of  either  sex,  fed  and 
fattened  for  market.  Capons  attain  to  twice  the 
weight  of  ordinary  fowls.  ROAST  CAPON — Same  as 
turkeys  and  fowls,  with  stuffing  and  butter  basting. 
Giblet  sauce  or  brown  sauce  from  the  baking  pan. 
BOILED  CAPON  WITH  SALT  PORK— Same  as  chicken 
or  turkey.  "  A  capon  is  not  so  profitable  as  a  fowl, 
as  it  wastes  very  much  in  cooking.  The  bird  being 
fed  on  barley-meal  and  milk,  the  flesh  is  necessarily 
finer.  CAPON  PIE — "Should  you  be  in  Dorsetshire 
or  Hampshire,  and  see  before  you  a  capon  pie,  the 
capon  stuffed  with  truffles  and  innumerable  dainties, 
eat.  Eat,  be  it  morning,  be  it  noon,  or  be  it  night. 
Eat,  and  be  thankful  for  your  introduction  to  one  of 
the  greatest  luxuries  the  mind  of  man  has  ever  con- 
ceived." 

CAPSICUMS— The  small  red  peppers  used  in 
bottled  pickles.  ESSENCE  OF  CAPSICUMS — Cayenne 
pepper  in  spirit,  used  in  seasoning  instead  of  pepper. 
CAPSICUM  BUTTER — For  sandwiches;  butter  and 
cayenne. 

CAPTAIN'S  BISCUITS  — Home-made  hard- 
tack. 


266 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


CAR 

CARAFES  FRAPPEES— "Those  who  know 
the  French  capital  will  readily  recall  the  delight- 
fully refreshing  and  almost  picturesque  appearance 
along  the  Boulevards  of  innumerable  balls  of  what 
appears  to  be  frozen  snow  in  elegantly -shaped  and 
scrupulously  clean  water-bottles,  or  carafes.  These 
carafes  f rappees,  as  they  are  called,  are  supplied  to 
restaurants  all  over  Paris  by  a  company,  at  a  charge 
which  is  a  little  more  than  nominal.  They  are 
brought  around  in  carts  with  the  regularity  of  the 
post,  and  are  renewed  sufficiently  often  to  enable  res- 
taurants of  the  largest  clientele  to  supply  their  cus- 
tomers with  water  brought  down  to  the  temperature 
of  ice."  BALL  OF  ICE  IN  A  BOTTLE — "  It  was  in  the 
Cafe  de  la  Paix  that  I  saw  him  thus,  and  his  strange 
appearance  attracted  my  attention.  On  the  marble 
slab  before  him  stood  an  empty  coffee  glass  and  a 
carafe  Jrappee.  It  had  puzzled  him ;  it  puzzled  me 
once.  I  have  heard  many  and  various  explanations 
given  which  were  far  from  being  satisfactory.  A 
lady  of  my  acquaintance  opined,  and  opines  still,  for 
all  I  know,  that  the  bottles  were  made  round  the  ice. 
another,  a  scoffer,  that  the  ice  wasn't  ice  at  all,  but 
ground  glass;  others  that  it  is  an  optical  illusion, 
and  so  on.  But  after  all  it  is  a  very  simple  matter, 
and  as  easy  of  comprehension  as  is  the  manufacture 
of  ice-cream,  only  that  in  this  case  the  bottle  must 
be  filled  three-quarters  only,  and  be  of  tough  glass, 
to  minimize  the  chances  of  a  very  animated  'bust'." 

CARAMEL — Burnt  sugar.  Said  to  have  been 
named  from  a  Viscount  Caramel.  It  is  the  stage  in 
boiling  sugar  when  the  boiling  ends  and  it  begins  to 
turn  brown.  At  that  stage  it  has  a  pleasant  taste 
like  some  brown  candies.  CARAMELS — Name  given 
to  various  kinds  of  candies,  generally  of  a  dark  sort. 
CARAMEL  COLORING — Sugar  burnt  in  a  frying  pan 
till  it  smokes  and  turns  black,  water  then  added, 
boiled,  strained;  used  for  giving  the  brandy-color  to 
soups,  jellies  and  spirits.  CARAMEL  PUDDING — 
Sugar  melted  brown  in  a  mould  and  run  all  over  the 
interior  while  cooling;  filled  up  with  custard  of  cream 
and  yolks;  steamed.  CARAMEL  ICE  CREAM — Brown 
almond  nougat  made  by  melting  sugar  to 'caramel 
with  almonds  mixed;  when  cold,  pounded  fine  and 
mixed  in  ice  cream  instead  of  sugar. 

CARAWAY  SEED— Seed  of  a  garden  herb; 
grows  like  seed  of  carrots  and  parsnips;  cheap  in  the 
drug  stores;  used  in  various  cakes  and  sweet  crack- 
ers, used  by  the  Germans  in  rye  bread,  used  steeped 
in  spirits  to  make  kummel,  and  in  various  liqueurs. 

CARBON  XADE  DE  MOUTON  (Fr.)—  Loin  of 
mutton. 

CARBONIC  ACID  GAS— The  "fizz"  of  soda 
water,  etc. 

CARDINAL  PUNCH— One  pineapple  sliced  in  a 
bowl  with  powdered  sugar,  and  left  to  stand  a  few 
hours;  the  peel  of  the  pineapple  boiled  in  little  water 
which  is  strained  to  the  fruit  for  higher  flavor;  2  or  3 
bottles  good  white  wine  added  and  about  i  Ib.  sugar. 
Set  on  ice.  When  served,  a  bottle  of  seltzer  or 


CAR 

champagne  added.  STRAWBERRY  CARDINAL — One 
qt.  fine  red-ripe  strawberries  in  a  bowl  with  i  Ib. 
sugar  and  i  bottle  red  wine.  Set  on  ice.  When 
served,  2  bottles  Rhine  wine  or  Moselle,  I  bottle 
champagne  or  seltzer.  Both  of  these  may  be  frozen 
and  served  semi-fluid  in  punch  glasses,  but  need 
more  sugar  for  that. 

CARDINAL  SAUCE— It  signifies  red  sauce, 
cardinal  red  having  that  name  in  allusion  to  the  red 
capes  worn  by  the  cardinals  of  the  Romish  church. 
And  the  red  sauce  is  made  by  mixing  lobster  coral 
—the  eggs  or  roe — in  butter  sauce,  with  some  other 
approved  flavorings  for  a  relish  with  fish. 

CAREME — A  name  often  met  with  in  the  litera- 
ture of  epicurism.  It  is  necessary  to  a  polite  educa- 
tion to  know  something  about  a  name  so  prominent. 
Cargme  was  an  original  genius  who  happened  to  be 
a  cook,  had  the  good  fortune  to  get  into  the  employ 
of  kings  and  emperors,  and  seing  his  advantages 
and  having  the  ability,  he  wrote  books  and  laid  the 
foundation  of  a  new  school  of  cookery.  It  was  Ca- 
r6me  who  invented  or  re- invented  the  great  list  of 
sauces  now  in  use — the  hot  sauces  and  garnishes 
and  ragouts — of  which  the  names  even  have  never 
been  learned  outside  of  France.  There  was  another 
able  man  at  the  time  doing  practical  work,  Beau- 
villiers,  the  founder  of  the  French  restaurant,  of 
whom  it  has  been  said  he  exhausted  the  classical 
school  of  cookery ;  he  used  up  all  the  resources  of 
the  old  world,  but  Careme  invented  a  new  one. 
CarSine  made  a  new  departure.  In  Carthne's  time 
and  afterwards,  the  old  names  and  fashions  of  cook- 
ery disappeared  and  the  uniform,  almost  universal 
language  of  the  art,  spread  from  Paris  to  all  the 
civilized  capitals;  it  was  the  end  of  the  old  feudal 
era  of  boar-hunting  barons  and  coarse  feasting  and 
the  beginning  of  a  period  of  gastronom.cal  refine- 
ment and  the  cultivation  of  the  manners  of  the 
table.  Car6me  died  less  than  fifty  years  ago.  He 
was  doing  his  best  work  in  the  first  quarter  of  the 
present  century.  %Ve  have  some  of  his  recollections 
of  great  men,  which  was  written  in  1832.  He  wrote 
several  books  on  cookery  and  kindred  subjects;  one 
of  them  was  his  Maitre  a" Hotel  or  steward-cook. 
He  himself  was  maitre  d' 'hotel  at  one  time  to  Prince 
Tallyrand  in  that  famous  man's  old  age.  He  was 
in  the  employ  of  the  emperor  Alexander  of  Russia, 
at  $6,000  a  year,  and  spent  for  the  emperor  $5,000  a 
week  on  the  kitchen  and  table.  CarSme  was  not  an 
economical  cook  or  steward,  nekher  are  they  who 
follow  him  faithfully.  And  yet  he  wrote  in  praise 
of  economy  and  claimed  to  practice  it.  Before  that 
time  he  had  been  cook  to  King  George  of  England, 
but  left  London  in  disgust,  complaining  of  the  dull- 
ness of  both  the  people  and  the  climate.  It  is  said 
the  immediate  cause  of  his  leaving  England  was  an 
insult  he  imagined  he  had  sustained  through  the 
king  having  added  salt  to  one  of  his  soups  and  eaten 
asparagus  with  one  of  his  new  entremets.  But  in 
Russia  he  was  not  quite  satisfied,  and  looked  back 
upon  the  massive  furnishings  of  the  English  table 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


267 


CAR 

with  something-  like  regret.  "  When  he  cooked  for 
the  Emperor  Alexander  he  never  could  reconcile 
himself  to  the  Russian  fashion  of  'a  table  not  six 
feet  broad  '  and  mostly  wasted  on  flower  pots,  which 
enforced  the  carving-  up  beforehand  of  all  his  glo- 
rious gr  Sfcs  pieces.  No,  his  pet  crotchets  were 
better  humored  by  the  oval  table  of  polished  steel  at 
the  Prince  Regent's  pavilion,  which  was  heated  by 
steam,  like  a  hot  plate,  and  was  large  enough  to 
hold  forty  entrees  at  one  time,  in  addition  to  its 
monster  decorations.  Before  the  Revolution  iron 
tables  of  this  kind  were,  Carbine  says,  to  be  seen  in 
the  Chateaux  of  France  and  the  private  '  hotels  '  of 
Paris.  And  it  is  no  wonder  that  iron  was  employed, 
for,  gross  as  the  custom  was  in  Cargme's  time,  it 
was  much  worse  about  1750.  He  copies  from  Vin- 
cent la  Chapelle  one  menu  for  100  guests,  which 
comprised  24  soups,  removed  by  as  many  large 
dishes  of  fish :  48  joints ;  66  dishes  of  oysters,  replaced 
by  66  entrees;  34  cold  meats  and  48  roasts;  besides, 
66  salads,  followed  by  66  other  entremets,  and  30 
sauces.  Thus  no  fewer  than  472  different  dishes  of 
all  sorts — round,  oval,  square,  octagonal  and  fanci- 
form — had  to  be  put  on  the  table,  and  with  all  this 
each  pair  of  elbows  had  but  eighteen  inches  play." 
Car6me  was  not  the  finisher  of  a  reform  movement, 
he  was  the  beginner  of  one.  His  works  were  grand- 
iloquent and  verbose  and  not  adapted  to  be  trans- 
lated, and  do  not  appear  to  be  in  print  in  English, 
if  they  have  ever  been.  The  essence  of  Carfime's 
work  is  in  Francatelli,  and  French  manners  and 
fashions  have  now  left  both  behind.  Beauvilliers 
and  Careme  were  the  chief  of  two  opposite  schools 
of  cookery — the  classical  and  the  romantic.  Accord- 
ing to  Mr.  Hayward,  "  Beauvilliers  was  more  re- 
markable for  judgment,  Careme  for  invention;  Beau- 
villiers exhausted  the  old  world  of  art,  and  Careme 
discovered  a  new  one;  the  former  was  great  in  an 
entree,  and  the  latter  sublime  in  an  entremet;  and 
while  Beauvilliers  might  be  backed  against  the 
world  for  a  rot,  Careme  alone  could  be  trusted  to 
invent  a  sauce." 
CARDON  (Fr.)— Cardoon. 

CARDOOX  —  Imported  vegetable;  uncommon; 
Spanish  thistle  heads.  The  stalks  of  the  inner 
leaves  are  the  parts  eaten.  CARDONS  A  L'ESPA- 
GNOLE — Freed  from  the  soft  stalks,  and  prickly 
edges  rubbed  off  with  a  towel;  cut  in  4-inch  lengths, 
parboiled,  peeled,  boiled  in  white  broth  with  lemon 
juice  and  aromatics,  served  with  espagnole  and 
butter.  SPANISH  CARDOONS  WITH  MARROW  — 
Served  with  pieces  of  marrow  toast.  FRIED  CAR- 
DOONS— Tied  in  bundles  like  asparagus  and  boiled, 
rolled  in  flour  and  fried  in  butter;  served  with  butter 
sauce.  CARDONS  AU  Jus  —  Parboiled,  scraped, 
stewed,  served  with  brown  sauce  and  beef  marrow. 
CARDONS  AC  GKATIN — Covered  with  bread  crumbs, 
moistened  with  butter  and  browned  in  the  oven. 
PUREE  DE  CARDONS  AUX  CROUTONS — Cardoons 
stewed  in  stock,  passed  through  a  seive ;  the  pulp 
mixed  with  cream,  served  on  fried  rounds  of  bread. 


CAR 

CARDONS    AU    PARMESAN   —  Cardoons    blanched, 
scraped,  boiled,  breaded,  fried  light   color,  dusted 
with  grated  Parmesan,  garnished  with  fried  parsley. 
CARRELETS  (Fr.)— Flounders;  flat-fish. 

CARRE  DE  MOUTON  (Fr.)— Neck  or  rack  of 
mutton. 

CARROTS— Necessary  for  soups  and  in  stock  for 
sauces;  not  in  much  dernand  as  a  vegetable  in  this 
country.  In  England  nearly  always  served  with 
boiled  salt  beef.  CARROTS  IN  CREAM— Young  car- 
rots scraped,  parboiled,  cut  in  slices,  simmered  with 
very  little  water  till  tender;  milk,  butter,  salt,  pepper 
and  corn-starch  thickening.  CARROTS  A  LA  FLA- 
MANDE— Prepared. like  the  last,  finished  with  egg 
yolks,  thickening  them  like  custard,  pinch  sugar 
and  chopped  parsley.  STEWED  CARROTS — Same  as 
in  Cream.  GLAZED  CARROTS — Young  carrots,  all 
one  size,  parboiled,  then  boiled  in  seasoned  stock 
with  butter  and  little  sugar;  dried  down  to  a  glaze. 
SAVORY  CARROTS — Fried  in  slices  with  butter,  on- 
ion, pepper,  salt,  little  flour;  when  brown,  broth 
added;  simmered  tender.  CARROTS  AND  GREEN- 
PEAS — Carrots  cut  in  dice,  cooked  half  done;  equal 
quantity  of  peas  added;  boiled  till  all  are  done.  But- 
ter-and-flour  thickening.  GAROTTES  A  LA  MENA- 
GERE — In  slices  in  white  sauce  with  wine  and  herbs. 
CAROTTES  NOUVELLES  A  LA  SAUCE  BLANCHE — 
Young  carrots  stewed  in  white  sauce.  CAROTTES 
AU  SUCRE — Boiled  and  mashed,  mixed  with  sugar, 
milk,  salt,  eggs,  in  a  dish,  sugared  over  top  and 
browned  in  the  oven.  CARROTS  IN  PUDDINGS — Two 
oz.  grated  carrot  to  each  pound  of  fruit;  said  to  im- 
prove plum  pudding.  Mashed  carrot  is  an  ingre- 
dient in  a  pudding  on  a  former  page.  CARROT 
SOUPS — About  half  the  soups  made  contain  more  or 
less  carrots;  they  are  in  all  vegetable  consommes. 
"  Puree  of  carrots,"  "solferino"  and  "crecy"  are 
carrot  soups.  Grated  carrot  has  been  used  to  color 
butter.  CARROTS  IN  CHARTREUSES — They  are  es- 
sential for  their  color  in  ornamental  vegetable  pieces 
and  for  salads  of  cooked  vegetables  in  jelly. 

CARP — Fresh -water  fish;  second-rate  in  quality, 
yet  has  received  much  attention  from  the  cooks  be- 
cause perhaps  of  its  good  shape  to  serve  whole.  In 
season  from  October  to  June.  BAKED  CARP — The 
gills  and  backbone,  which  are  the  parts  tasting  un- 
pleasantly of  mud  in  some  fish,  are  removed  without 
quite  separating  the  back;  a  stuffing  of  bread  and 
oysters  put  in,  the  fish  sewed  up,  egged  and  bread- 
crumbed  on  upper  side,  and  baked;  gravy  made  in 
the  pan  with  tomatoes  or  Worcestershire  sauce. 
CARP  A  LA  COBLENTZ— The  fish  cut  in  pieces,  stewed 
in  stock  with  Rhine  wine,  carrots,  onions,  mush- 
rooms and  herbs.  Served  with  the  liquor,  reduced, 
lemon  juice,  butter,  parsley,  fried  bread.  CARPE 
FRITE — Split,  floured  and  fried.  GERMAN  CARP 
A  LA  BIERE — Like  coblentz,  with  beer  to  boil  in  in- 
stead of  wine;  bits  of  bacon  added.  CARPE  ALA 
MARINIERE  t'sea  fashion) — Cut  xip,  stewed  in  white 
wine  and  water,  garlic,  onion,  parsley;  liquor  thick- 


268 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


CAR 

ened  with  brown  flour  and  butter;  glazed  onions 
oysters,  etc. ,  added.  CARP  ROE  BALLS— Roes  cooked 
with  salt,  vinegar  and  water  15  minutes,  drained 
chopped,  mixed  with  bread  crumbs,  yolks,  butter 
baked  in  balls.  COQUILLES  DE  LAITANCES  DE 
CARPE — Scalloped  carp  roe  in  shells.  "  In  illustra 
tion  of  how  much  depends  upon  the  dressing  of  fish 
it  may  be  observed  that  a  stewed  carp  is  really  '< 
splendid  dish;  a  boiled  carp  one  of  the  worst  broughi 
to  table."  (See  Buffalo-fish.} 

CARTOUCHES  DE  CUPIDON —Cartridge- 
forms  of  two  colors  of  ice  cream;  Cupid's  cartridges 
CASSEROLE — A  baked  shape  of  rice;  the  same 
thing  as  cassolette,  but  larger.  _  The  rice  is  boiled 
dry,  then  mashed  and  seasoned,  shaped  as  wantec 
with  a  wet  knife,  the  inside  hollowed  out;  exterior 
decorated,  egged  over  and  baked;  then  filled  with  a 
ragout  or  mince. 

CASSEROLE  (Fr.)— Old  name  for  saucepan.  At 
a  fashionable  party  in  Paris:  "The  casseroles  de  ris 
de  -veau  petits  pois  were  stews  of  sweetbread  with 
new  peas  served  in  small  silver  saucepans,  the  lid 
being  attached  to  each  with  a  bow  of  silk  ribbon." 

CASSIA  -  The  cheaper  spice  that  passes  for  cinna- 
mon. (See  cinnamon.) 
CASSIS-  Black  currant  wine. 
CASSOLETTES  —  Little    cup-shaped    cases    of 
mashed  rice,  made  to  hold  some  kind  of  meat  or  sweet 
filling.  They  are  usually  floured  and  fried ;  they  can  be 
finished  by  baking  as  well.  One  form  of  rice  croquette, 
which  is  like  biscuit,  with  a  hollow  in  the  center  to 
hold  fruit  jelly,  breaded  and  fried,  is  a  cassolette,  but 
the  shapes  can  be  made  deep  and  very  ornamental. 

CASSOULET  DE  TOULOUSE— "To-day   let 

me  merely  mention  the  various  ingredients  that  enter 
into  the  composition  of  Cassoulet  de  Toulouse,  as 
given  me  by  the  amiable  chef  of  the  Caf6  Voltaire : 
White  beans,  real  Aries  sausage,  fresh  pork,  goose, 
garlic,  pounded  bacon,  pepper  and  salt;  stewed 
slowly  together  into  a  sort  of  puree  for  five  hours. 
Apropos  of  cassoulet,  I  noticed,  in  passing  down 
the  Boulevard  St.  Michel  yesterday,  a  very  fine  show 
of  fat  geese  displayed  in  one  of  the  windows  of 
Boulant's  Bullion  Restaurant,  and  over  them  the  in- 
timation, 'Cassoulet  every  Saturday.'  The  portion 
is  tariffed  at  6d. ;  but  not  for  many  sixpences  would 
your  correspondent  try  his  feeble  digestion  with 
such  a  dish,  delicious  and  savory  though  it  may  be 
to  those  endowed  with  what  good  old  poet  Horace 
calls  'dura  ilia.'  At  many  other  Parisian  restau- 
rants, by  the  way,  brandade  and  cassoulet  days  are 
announced  in  the  windows  on  special  showcards. 
For  some  reason  brandade  is  usually  a  fixture  for 
Tuesday,  while  cassoulet  is  almost  invariably  prom- 
ised for  Saturdays.  On  such  days  the  restaurants  in 
question  are  certain  to  be  filled  with  dark -bearded, 
voiuble-tongued,  and  sub  rosa  be  it  added,  garlic- 
scented,  sons  of  the  South." 
CASTOR  PLANT — Grown  in  boxes  in  dining 


CAT 

halls,  bar-rooms,  etc.,  it  is  said  to  effectually  banish 
flies.  The  discovery  that  castor-oil  plants  possesses 
the  faculty  of  killing  and  keeping  away  flies,  mos- 
quitoes and  other  insects  was  recently  made  by  a 
French  scientist  named  Rafford,  who  noticed  that 
certain  rooms  in  his  house,  in  which  castor-oil  plants 
were  growing,  were  entirely  free  from  these  dis- 
agreeable insects,  although  other  apartments  were 
infested  with  them.  He  found  lying  near  the  plants 
large  quantities  of  dead  flies,  and  a  large  number  of 
dead  bodies  were  hanging  to  the  under-surface  of  the 
leaves,  which  caused  him  to  investigate  the  matter, 
and  the  discovery  was  made  that  the  plants  gave  out 
an  essential  oil  or  some  toxic  principle  which  pos- 
sessed very  powerful  insecticide  qualities. 

CATFISH— The  catfish  in  the  United  States  oc- 
cupies the  same  ambiguous  position  as  the  conger- 
eel  in  England;  both  are  good  food  and  Kith  are  sub- 
jects of  prejudice.  The  catfish  furnishes  too  much 
good  meat  to  the  markets  of  all  that  country  that  is 
drained  by  the  Mississippi  for  its  value  to  be  called 
in  question  now,  and  yet  a  good  many  people  will 
not  eat  it  There  are  several  varieties,  seeming  to 
be  different  only  in  the  color  of  the  skin,  and  some 
people  liking  the  white,  oily,  flaky  catfish  steak 
compromise  with  their  prejudices  by  choosing  only 
the  yellow  cat  to  eat.  But  the  distinction  amounts 
to  very  little  at  the  great  fish  stalls,  where  cat  as 
large  as  sturgeon  and  dear  as  halibut  are  cut  into 
steaks  by  the  several  hundred  pounds  daily  and  sold 
as  readily  as  any  fish  from  the  sea.  At  the  steam- 
boat landings  on  the  Mississippi  it  is  no  uncommon 
thing  for  a  catfish  of  100  pounds  weight  to  be  hooked, 
the  fishers  using  flat-boats  to  fish  from  and  armed 
with  boat-hooks  and  axes  to  cope  with  such  power- 
ful game  when  hooked ;  the  plan  is  to  get  the  monster 
to  the  side  of  the  boat  in  one  of  his  quiet  intervals 
and  sever  the  tail  with  an  axe,  after  which  the  fish  is 
powerless.  The  common  weights  are,  however, 
about  40  or  50  pounds.  In  smaller  streams  the  fish 
seem  to  run  smaller,  and  whole  "  strings  of  cats  "  of 
small  weight  may  be  caught  before  one  that  weighs 
as  much  as  20  pounds.  Nothing  elaborate  in  ways 
f  cooking  catfish  is  known ;  it  is  cut  into  steaks  and 
either  broiled  or  fried.  The  colored  people  make 
soup  and  chowder  of  the  head.  The  fish  is  skinned 
with  a  knife,  in  strips;  but  small  ones  are  skinned 
more  quickly  by  scalding  and  scraping.  "Catfish 
or  wolf-fish,  which  is  seen  occasionally  in  the  shops, 
astes  not  unlike  veal."  It  was  once  proposed  to 
mport  some  varieties  of  American  fish  to  stock  En- 
glish waters,  the  catfish  among  them,  and  somebody 
ivrote  to  their  Times:  "  In  mercy  to  men  and  fishes 
protest  against  importing  this  forbidding,  ferocious, 
uneatable,  but  all -devouring  siluroid."  In  reply  Mr. 
rish-Commissioner  Blackford  explains  that  "the 
ish  are  nothandsome,  but  they  are  great  favorites 
n  Philadelphia.  A  native  of  that  place  is  never  so 
lappy  as  when  he  is  atapic-nicon  the  Wissahickon 
ating  catfish  and  waffles.  Not  many  catfish  stray 
nto  our  market,  and  when  they  do  they  are  boxed 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


269 


CAT 

up  and  shipped  to  Philadelphia,  where  they  are  ap-  j 
predated."    The  catfish  is  in  season  from  September 
to  April. 

CATAWBA— See  Wines,  Drinks,  Ices. 

CAULIFLOWER — Grows  to  perfection  in  some 
parts  of  this  country,  where  the  winters  are  mild 
and  moist,  but  is  a  rarity  in  the  corn  belt.  Florida, 
Utah  and  California  send  shipments  of  cauliflower 
to  all  other  sections.  As  a  vegetable  delicacy  it  is 
only  second  to  asparagus,  if  carefully  cooked. 
CAULIFLOWER  AND  TOMATO  SAUCE  —  The  cauli- 
flowers boiled  in  salted  water  until  the  stalk  feels 
soft  when  tried  with  a  fork,  then  drained;  tomato 
sauce  in  the  dish  it  is  served  in.  CAULIFLOWER 
RAREBIT— Cauliflower  in  small  flowerets  fried  with 
mushrooms,  grated  cheese  enough  to  coat  it  over; 
served  on  toast.  CHOUXFLEURS  AU  GRATIN — The 
flowerets  separated  after  boiling,  put  in  a  baking 
pan  or  dish;  white  sauce,  grated  cheese,  and  cracker 
dust  sifted  over,  browned  in  the  oven.  CHOUX- 
FLEURS A  LA  HOLLAND AISE — Boiled  and  served  with 
Hollandaise  sauce.  CHOUXFLEURS  A  LA  MAYON- 
NAISE—Cold,  sprinkled  with\  vinegar  and  mayon- 
naise sauce  in  the  center.  CAULIFLOWER  SALAD — 
Cold  boiled  cauliflower  with  oil  and  vinegar.  MARI- 
NADE DE  CHOUXFLEURS  —  The  pieces  parboiled, 
drained  dipped  in  batter  and  fried.  CAULIFLOWER 
LM  SOUPS  -Purge  of  cauliflower,  cream  of  cauli- 
flower, consomme  with  cauliflower.  CAULIFLOWER 
PICKLES — Generally  mixed  with  other  vegetables; 
cauliflower  is  pickled  the  same  way. 

CAVY — The  guinea  pig.  Where  cavies  are  an 
article  of  regular  consumption,  especially  as  a  sub- 
stitute for  game  in  the  menu  in  the  summer  season, 
they  are  cooked  in  a  variety  of  ways.  They  are  ex 
cellent  in  various  stews  as  entrees,  with  mushrooms 
cut  up  and  stewed  brown,  in  a  white  stew  with 
button  mushrooms,  with  brown  onions,  with  green 
peas,  a  la  Soiibise,  and  especially  in  curry.  The 
guinea  pig  or  cavy  is  prepared  for  cooking  the  same 
way  as  a  'possum,  by  scalding  and  scraping  the 
hair  off. 

CAVIARE — A  relish  or  appetizer  popular  and 
fashionable  everywhere  more  than  in  the  United 
States.  It  appears  in  the  majority  of  foreign  menus 
whenever  the  hors  d'txuvres  are  named  separately. 
Can  be  bought  in  cans  at  all  the  fancy  grocery  stores. 
To  serve,  it  is  spread  either  upon  bread  and  butter, 
to  make  sandwiches,  or  upon  fried  bread  (croutons). 
Caviare  is  greatly  eaten  in  Berlin  as  a  supper  dish, 
served  separately  on  a  dish  with  bread  and  butter, 
cayenne  and  lemon,  same  as  would  be  eaten  with 
oysters;  in  London  the  sandwich  is  the  favorite 
form.  Caviare  is  as  black  as  ink;  it  is  the  salted 
and  smoked  roe  of  the  sturgeon,  and  that  is  black  be- 
fore it  is  cured;  a  large  sturgeon  will  yield  a  pailful 
of  roe  that  looks  like  berries.  The  comestible  seems 
to  be  a  Russian  invention,  as  it  is  oftenest  branded 
Russian  caviare,  though  it  is  made  in  this  country 
to  some  extent.  TARTINES  DE  CAVIARE — Spread 


CEL 

on  buttered  toast,  decorated  with  minced  pickles, 
pickled  peppers  and  parsley.  CAVIARE  SALAD— 
"  Caviare,  of  course,  everybody  knows  of,  and 
Shakespeare's  '  caviare  to  the  general '  would  have 
no  point  to-day.  But  do  you  know  how  caviare 
salad  is  prepared  ?  This  is  a  most  tasty  preparation, 
and  of  great  delight  to  the  connoisseur.  This  is 
how  you  make  it:  Take  %  of  caviare  and  %  of  bread 
crumbs  and  almonds,  and  mince  the  whole  up  as 
finely  as  possible  with  a  little  olive  oil,  till  the  mix- 
ture becomes  of  the  color  and  consistency  of  mortar. 
It  is  very  good  indeed  when  eaten  with  olives." 

CAVALIERS  BROIL  — A  boned  shoulder  of 
mutton  or  lamb  baked  in  covered  pan,  pressed  flat 
while  cooking,  scored  with  a  knife  point,  and  sauce 
and  seasonings  rubbed  into  the  gashes;  broiled  on 
the  gridiron. 

CAYUGA  DUCK— The  cayuga,  like  the  canvas- 
back  duck,  is  of  great  size  when  mature.  Its  fine 
dark  flesh  is  of  better  flavor  than  that  of  an  ordinary 
wild  duck,  like  which  it  should  be  cooked;  It  makes 
a  superb  salmi. 

CAZANOVA  SAUCE— Mayonnaise  with  chop- 
ped yolks,  shred  whites  and  chopped  truffles. 

CEDRAT  (Fr.)— Citron. 

CELERY — An  article  of  necessity  now  for  every 
good  dinner  or  supper  in  the  winter  and  spring.  Is 
thought  not  to  have  the  delicate  crispness  so  much 
esteemed  until  after  frost.  It  should  be  kept  in  ice 
water  for  a  few  hours  before  it  is  used.  The  heart 
stalks  are  eaten  raw  with  salt.  The  fashions  change 
as  to  the  method  of  serving;  the  tall  celery  glasses 
set  upon  the  table  form  the  handiest  and  handsomest 
medium,  but  having  become  so  exceedingly  common 
they  are  discarded  at  present  at  fashionable  tables, 
and  the  celery  is  laid  upon  very  long  and  narrow 
dishes.  It  is  almost  invariably  eaten  with  the  fingers. 
The  principal  use  next  made  of  celery  is  in  salads, 
or  as  a  salad  alone,  cut  in  dice,  with  oil,  salt,  pepper 
and  vinegar  shaken  up  in  it.  CELERI  AU  Jus — The 
stalks  cut  in  finger  lengths,  stewed  in  stock,  served 
with  brown  gravy.  CELERI  A  LA  VILLEROI — The 
stalks  cut  in  lengths,  parboiled,  drained,  egged, 
breaded  and  fried.  CELERI  A  LA  MOELLE — Stewed 
in  stock,  served  on  toast  spread  with  marrow. 
CELERI  A  LA  CHETWYND — The  stalks  cut  in  inch- 
lengths,  stewed,  mixed  with  stewed  onions  in  cream, 
with  chillies;  served  on  toast.  CELERI  AU  PAR- 
MESAN— Made  the  same  as  macaroni  and  cheese;  the 
celery  in  place  of  macaroni.  CELERY  SAUCE  (white 
or  brown) — Cut  in  small  pieces  and  stewed,  either 
white  or  brown  sauce  added  to  it;  served  with  fowls 
and  various  small  meats.  CELERY  SALT  —  A 
most  useful  kitchen  adjunct.  It  can  be  made  in 
two  ways:  1st,  essence  of  celeri  poured  over  a  tablet 
of  table-salt,  and  the  salt  then  dried,  powdered  by 
rubbing  one  half  on  the  other,  and  then  bottled  and 
closely  corked;  2nd,  by  using  ground  celery  seeds. 
These  are  prepared  in  a  pepper-mill  and  mixed  with 
salt  in  the  proportion  of  2  oz.  to  the  i  Ib.  of  salt 


270 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


CEL 

CELERY  PUREE  (a  sauce) — Celery  cooked  and  passed 
through  a  seive,  mixed  with  cream;  served  with 
partridges,  quails,  chicken,  etc.  CELERY  SOUPS  — 
Cream  of  celery,  consomme  with  celery,  and  mixed 
with  other  vegetables. 

CELERIAC— Turnip-rooted  celery.  Eaten  raw 
and  in  salads;  can  be  cooked  as  the  other  kind. 
PCREE  DE  CELERI-RAVE — Cooked  root-celery  like 
mashed  turnips. 

CENDRE  (a  la)— Cooked  in  the  coals. 

CENDRILLONS  DU  FILETS  DE  SOLES— 
A  French  chef's  specialty  for  a  party.  "  Shape  the 
fillets  of  soles  into  the  semblance  of  babies' shoes; 
bako  them  for  about  ten  minutes,  and,  when  cold, 
cover  each  one  carefully  with  a  sauce  chaudjroid, 
prepared  from  the  bones  of  the  fish.  Decorate  what 
represents  the  toe-points  with  a  spreading  of  chervil 
very  finely  chopped;  and,  at  the  part  usually  adorned, 
form  a  knot  of  truffles  in  imitation  of  a  bow.  Dish 
up  in  a  rice-stand,  garnished  in  the  center  with  a 
talade  Italienne,  and  surrounded  by  croutons  offish- 
jelly." 

CEPES — These  are  large  or  "  flap  "  mushrooms, 
obtainable  in  cans  put  up  in  oil  something  after  the 
manner  of  sardines.  They  have  the  mushroom- 
flavor  strong  and  decided,  which  is  only  faint  in  the 
canned  champignons.  Cfepes  are  valuable  additions 
to  entrees  and  sauces,  but  are  also  easily  converted 
into  a  choice  dish  by  draining  from  the  oil  and  broil- 
ing or  frying  like  an  omelet  CEPES  A  LA  BORDE- 
LAISE — Means  Bordeaux  cfepes;  they  only  need  to  be 
heated  in  a  frying  pan  and  have  lemon  juice  and 
parsley  added.  CEPES  A  LA  PROVENCALE — The 
cfepes  cut  in  slices,  stewed  with  garlic,  onions,  bay 
leaf  and  espagnole;  lemon  and  parsley;  served  with 
shapes  of  fried  bread.  CEPES  OR  MUSHROOMS 
FRESH — Are  prepared  a  la  Bordelaise  by  peeling, 
washing  and  draining  large  mushrooms,  steeping 
for  an  hour  or  two  in  oil,  salt  and  pepper;  broiling 
them,  and  using  the  same  oil.  with  lemon  juice  and 
parsley,  for  sauce.  "But  what  struck  me  the  most  was 
the  enormous  quantity  of  edible/wa^/  that  were  to  be 
seen  about  the  market  at  Aix  les  Bains.  They  were 
represented  by  samples  in  all  their  varieties  of  form, 
size  and  quality.  The  cepes  (esculent  Boletus),  the 
ordinary  mushrooms,  the  oronges,  the  morels,  the 
roussillons,  etc.,  were  in  abundance,  presenting  a 
curious  aspect  with  their  odd  shapes  and  various 
colors.  But  above  all  I  noticed  that  the  cfepes  were 
in  majority,  their  rich  tones  and  glaring  colors  con- 
trasting strongly  with  the  whiteness  of  their  flesh." 

CEREALINE  —  A  starchy  pudding  -  material, 
made  from  Indian  corn.  Used  same  ways  as  arrow- 
root, corn  starch,  tapioca,  etc. 

CERF  (Fr.)— Deer,  venison. 

CERISES  (Fr.)— Cherries. 

CERVELLES  (Fr.)  — Brains.  CERVELLES  DE 
VEAU — Calves'  brains.  CERVELLES  D'AGNEAU — 
Lambs'  brains.  CERVELLES  DE  MOUTON — Sheep's 
brains. 


CHA 

CHABLIS — A  white  wine;  best  kind  for  cooking 
fish. 

CHAFING  DISHES-Metal  dishes  set  in  an- 
other dish  containing  hot  water,  a  lamp  underneath, 
for  keeping  meats,  etc.,  hot. 

CHALYBEATE  —  Containing  iron,  as  iron 
spring -water. 

CHAMBERTIN— A  dinner  wine.    (See  vines.) 

CHAMBORD  (a  la)— Style  of  cooking  fish,  in 
which  the  fish  is  spread  over  with  forcemeat  and 
decorated,  and  served  with  Chambord  garnish. 
Name  of  a  part  of  France. 

CHAMBORD  GARNISH— Light  sauce  offish- 
liquor,  seasoned  with  vegetables,  wine  and  tomatoes 
strained,  and  mushrooms,  fish  quenelles,  cooked  oys- 
ters and  truffles  added. 

CHAMBORD  SAUCE— For  fish;  made  of  ^  pt. 
white  pur£e  of  mushrooms,  I  pt.  bechamel,  2  oz. 
lobster  butter,  a  glass  of  sauterne  and  piece  of  glaze. 

CHAMPAGNE— A  wine  accidentally  discovered 
by  a  good  Benedictine  monk,  named  Dom  Perignon, 
in  or  about  the  year  1688.  (See  mines  for  limes  to 
serve,  etc.)  "  SWEET  v.  DRY  CHAMPAGNE — It  is 
for  the  interest  of  the  wine  manufacturer  that  a  taste 
for  a  very  sweet  wine  should  predominate  in  the 
world.  A  dry  champagne,  to  be  palatable,  must  be 
made  of  the  finest  raw  wine.  A  sweet  champagne 
can  be  made  of  almost  any  material.  The  excessive- 
quantity  of  sugar  in  the  latter  masks  completely  its 
original  character.  In  the  former,  every  natural 
feature  is  distinctly  expressed,  and  its  virtues  or  vices, 
if  it  have  them,  are  at  once  discerned.  Champagne, 
as  it  is  known  to  the  consumer,  the  Tin  prepare  (pre- 
pared wine)  of  the  manufacturers,  does  not  improve 
by  age.  The  wine,  the  vtn  brut  (raw),  of  which  it  is 
made,  provided  it  be  good,  does,  however,  benefit 
by  increase  of  years.  EFFERVESCENCE — The  effer- 
vescence of  champagne  depends  much  upon  the  form 
and  condition  of  the  glass  out  of  which  it  is  drunk. 
It  sparkles  much  more  freely  when  poured  into  :\ 
glass  pointed,  than  in  one  that  is  round  or  flat  at  the 
bottom.  The  presence  of  a  little  dust,  left  by  a  care- 
less waiter,  will  increase  greatly  the  development  of 
the  gas;  and  the  glass  that,  after  being  rinsed  with 
water,  is  wiped  with  a  cloth,  however  fine,  will 
cause  the  champagne  poured  into  it  to  sparkle,  while 
the  same  wine  will  be  comparatively  still  in  the 
glass  which  has  been  merely  rinsed  and  untouched 
afterwards.  STORAGE — As  soon  as  the  consumer 
has  purchased  his  stock,  he  should  remove  the  bot- 
tles from  the  baskets  or  cases,  and  lay  them  in  a  eel  - 
lar  of  about  45  degrees,  on  their  sides,  with  an 
inclination  of  the  neck  downwards,  so  that  the  wine 
may -remain  in  contact  with  the  corks.  Thus,  con- 
stantly bathed  with  the  vinous  fluid,  they  are  pre- 
vented from  drying  and  shrinking,  and  from  being 
covered  with  mould,  which  will  spoil  the  flavor  of 
the  best  champagne.  If  the  cork  shrink-,  from  dry- 
ness  and  heat,  the  gas  will  escape,  ar.J  the  wine, 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


271 


CHA 

losing  its  sparkle,  become  flat.  EXPLOSIVENESS— 
The  champagne  which  explodes  the  loudest  and 
flows  out  the  frothiest,  is  by  no  means  the  best.  It 
is,  in  fact,  a  proof  of  its  inferiority.  Good  wine 
largely  absorbs  the  carbonic-acid  gas  generated  in 
the  course  of  its  manufacture.  In  bad  wine  the  gas, 
instead  of  being  absorbed,  accumulates  in  the  vacant 
space  above  the  liquid,  and  thus,  when  the  bottle  is 
opened,  the  cork  explodes  with  great  violence,  fol- 
lowed by  a  cataract  of  froth.  When  this  escapes, 
the  wine  remains  comparatively  flat.  In  good  wine, 
on  the  other  hand,  the  cork  may  require  a  great 
effort  to  draw,  and  when  drawn  there  may  be  little 
or  no  froth,  but  the  liquid  will  be  seen  to  sparkle 
with  innumerable  gems  of  brightness."  CHAMPAGNE 
DRINKING — "The  prevalent  notion  that  a  glass  of 
champagne  cannot  be  too  quickly  swallowed  is  er- 
roneous; and  it  is  no  bad  test  of  the  quality  of  cham- 
pagne to  have  it  exposed  for  some  hours  in  a  wine- 
glass, when,  if  originally  of  the  highest  order,  it 
will  be  found  to  have  lost  its  carbonic  acid,  but  en- 
tirely to  retain  its  body  and  flavor,  which  had  before 
been  concealed  by  its  effervescence.  Champagne 
should,  therefore,  not  be  drunk  till  this  active  effer- 
vescence is  over,  by  those  who  relish  the  above 
characteristic  quality."  —  "The  reason  champagne 
is  costly  is  not  that  the  grapes  from  which  it  is 
made  are  less  prolific,  or  require  more  expensive 
treatment  to  vinif y  than  other  sorts ;  it  is  the  amount 
of  care  and  attention  required  after  bottling  that 
makes  the  price  so  high.  A  bottle  of  champagne,  or 
other  kindred  wines,  requires,  without  exaggeration, 
twenty  times  the  labor  and  care  of  any  other,  and  in 
addition  a  heavy  percentage  is  annually  lost  through 
the  bursting  of  bottles  during  manufacture,  which 
proportion  of  breakage  rises  as  the  quality  of  the 
vintage  is  more  favorable,  in  good  years  reaching 
from  ten  to  twenty-five  per  cent. — bottles  and  wine 
entirely  lost— and  yet  the  sale  of  champagne  con- 
tinues to  be  both  large  and  remunerative  to  the 
grower,  and  he,  to  meet  the  demand,  extensively' 
adulterates  and  doctors  inferior  qualities,  as  is  proved 
by  the  excess  of  that  consumed  over  that  produced ; 
but  from  the  above  remarks  it  can  be  gathered  that 
there  is  no  such  thing  as  cheap  champagne,  and 
when  champagne  is  offered  below  a  certain  figure, 
one  may  rest  assured  it  is  not  champagne  at  all." 

CHAMPAGNE  CAKES  —  Peculiar  shapes  of 
cake,  like  the  natural  divisions  of  an  orange,  made 
of  i  Ib.  sugar,  i  Ib.  butter,  9  eggs,  i%  Ibs.  flour; 
mixed  like  pound  cake.  Stiff  paper  folded  in  flutings 
like  a  fan,  spoonfuls  of  the  cake  dropped  at  distances 
apart. 

CHAMPAGNE  CIDER— Cider  bottled  and  kept 
one  or  two  years. 

CHAMPAGNE  FRAPPE  —  Bottles  of  cham- 
pagne set  in  a  pail  of  freezing  mixture  (pounded  ice 
and  salt)  until  thoroughly  cold  and  beginning  to 
freeze,  like  melting  snow.  "  Mr.  Henry  Clair  is  an 
ingenious  man.  A  contemporary  says  of  him  that 


CHA 

he  ca.nfrappe  a  bottle  of  champagne  in  five  minutes. 
He  puts  into  a  metal  wine  cooler  a  bottle  of  cham- 
pagne, surrounds  it  with  alternate  layers  of  ice  and 
rock  salt,  and  puts  the  cooler  on  a  hot  range,  turns 
the  bottle  with  the  hands,  and  the  rapid  melting  of 
the  ice  solidifies  the  wine  at  once." 

CHAMPAGNE  CREAM— Cream-colored,  sort 
of  champagne  egg-nogg;  yolks  of  eggs  and  pow- 
dered sugar — 5  yolks  and  5  oz.  to  a  bottle — whipped 
light,  champagne  and  brandy  added;  half  frozen, 
served  in  punch  glasses. 

CHAMPAGNE  SAUCE— Sauce  made  by  mix- 
ing gooseberry  or  apple  champagne  with  brown 
sauce  and  little  sugar;  served  with  roast  ham. 

CHANNEL  BASS— The  redfish  of  the  South,  or 
sea  bass.  It  is  known  by  its  having  a  black  spot  on 
each  side  of  the  tail;  attains  a  weight  of  ten  or  fif- 
teen pounds;  is  cooked  like  snapper  and  any  sea  fish. 

CHANCELLOR  PUDDING— A  steamed  cab- 
inet pudding  made  of  sliced  small  sponge  cakes, 
macaroons,  raisins,  citron,  in  a  buttered  and  orna- 
mented mould;  filled  up  with  custard  before 
steaming. 

CHANTILLY  CREAM— Whipped  cream;  com- 
mon thick  cream;  possibly  it  may  have  meant  at  first 
clotted  cream.  French  royalty  had  a  country  resi- 
dence at  Chantilly  about  the  time  our  present  culi- 
nary terms  were  in  course  of  formation,  and  there 
also  was  the  royal  model  farm  and  dairy,  whence 
came  the  "  chantilly  cream  "  for  the  king's  table  in 
Paris.  The  term  occurs  with  great  frequency  with 
certain  culinary  authors,  and  never  means  anything 
else  than  whipped  cream.  MERINGUE  BASKETS  A 
LA  CHANTILLY  —  Egg-kisses  built  up  in  basket 
shape  by  sticking  together  with  candy;  the  basket 
then  filled  up  with  sweetened  and  flavored  whipped 
cream.  BORDER  OF  JELLY  A  LA  CHANTILLY— Same 
as  English  jelly  with  syllabub;  a  border  or  ring  of 
jelly  formed  in  a  border  mould,  turned  out  and  the 
center  filled  up  with  whipped  cream.  GATEAU  A  LA 
CHANTILLY — A  cake  made  hollow  in  the  middle, 
spread  all  over  with  jam  and  filled  with  whipped 
cream.  CHANTILLY  SOUP — Puree  of  young  green 
peas,  slight  flavor  of  mint  and  green  onions. 

CHAPON  (Fr.)— Capon. 

CHAR — Fish  like  a  trout,  or  the  cisco  of  the 
American  lakes;  found  in  the  lakes  of  the  north  of 
England;  cooked,  potted,  etc.,  like  brook  trout. 

CHARCUTIER—  (Fr.)— Pork  butcher. 

CHARCUTERIE  (Fr.)  — The  pork  butchers' 
manufactures;  products  of  pork  and  other  meats, 
such  as  Strasbourg  cerreals ,'  Nancy  chitterlings: ; 
andouillcttes,  saveloy  pig's  liver ;  pig's  feet  -with 
truffles  ;  r illettes  de  Tours  ;  bonding  ;  cerTtlativurst ; 
schinkenvjurst ,' plockv.'itr.tt ;  Frankfurt  -y,iirstchen  ; 
also  brawn,  galantines,  etc. 

CHARCOAL— The  best  deodorizer;  best  non- 
conductor of  heat  for  refrigerators  if  finely  pounded ; 


272 


THE    STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


CHA 

necessary  for  broiling  meats.  A  supply  for  a  hotel 
can  generally  best  be  obtained  by  engagement  with 
a  countryman  to  burn  a  pit,  as  it  is  called,  though 
some  make  a  business  of  it  and  go  around  and  take 
orders.  The  tinsmiths  have  to  have  it,  and  can 
often  direct  a  steward  where  to  buy.  The  price  of 
charcoal  ranges  from  7  or  8  to  15  cents  per  bushel  in 
ordinary  localities.  Charcoal  should  be  kept  dry. 
The  dust  remaining  is  good  and  useful  to  destroy 
the  smell  of  chicken  coops,  waste  barrels,  tainted 
meats,  etc. 

CHARLOTTE— A  sweet  dish  made  of  a  casing 
of  cake  or  bread,  the  inside  of  fruit  or  cream.  AP- 
PLE CHARLOTTE  —  See  apples.  CHARLOTTE  DE 
POIKES — Pear  charlotte. 

CHARLOTTE  AUX  FRUITS— Several  kinds 
of  fruit  stewed  with  wine  in  a  charlotte  made  same 
as  with  apples. 

CHARLOTTE  RUSSE— Not  to  be  confounded 
with  chartreuse.  Charlotte  russe  is  varied  in  sev- 
eral ways;  it  is  alining  of  either  lady  fingers  or 
sliced  sponge  cake,  placed  around  the  inside  of  a 
mould  and  filled  up  with  a  cream  containing  gela- 
tine enough  to  set  it,  pure  whipped  cream  is  the 
best,  sweetened  and  flavored.  Small  charlottes  to 
be  served  individually  are  made  in  muffin  rings  and 
turned  out  when  set,  or  in  fancy  paper  cases  and 
served  in  them,  when  whipped  cream  without  gela- 
tine is  sufficient.  CHARLOTTE  A  LA  POLONAISE— A 
sponge  cake  cut  in  slices,  the  slices  dipped  in  fla- 
vored cream  and  built  up  into  their  former  shape; 
the  re-formed  cake  is  covered  with  whipped  cream 
and  sugar  and  decorated  with  jelly;  served  very 
cold. 

CHARLOTTE  PRUSSIEXNE  —  A  charlotte 
russe  solidified  by  partial  freezing,  wine  jelly  being 
poured  in  the  mould  first  J^  inch  deep,  lady  fingers 
around  when  that  is  set;  filled  up  with  Bavarian 
cream  and  set  in  a  pail  of  freezing  mixture  till 
w  anted. 

CHARLOTTES  GLACEES— Frozen  charlottes; 
made  by  lining  a  mould  with  lady  fingers  and  filling 
with  ice  cream;  the  name  according  to  the  filling;  as 
CHARLOTTE  GLACEE  A  LA  PLOMBIERES— Is  filled 
with  a  white  tutti  frutti.  A  wetted  paper  is  first 
to  be  laid  in  the  bottom  of  the  mould.  INDIVIDUAL 
CHARLOTTES  GLACEES  —  Square  cases  made  of  4 
sponge  drop  biscuits  joined  at  the  ends  with  icing, 
filled  at  serving  time  with  ice  cream. 

CHARTREUSE-  A  liqueur  invented  by  the 
monks  of  Chartreuse.  Can  be  bought  of  liquor 
merchants,  as  well  as  maraschino,  etc. ;  is  used  by 
pastry  cooks  in  ices  and  creams.  There  are  four 
varieties  of  the  liqueur  mentioned;  the  yellow  char- 
treuse is  that  in  common  use  at  first-class  bars. 
" Chartreuse  is  of  four  kinds:  The  'Elixir,'  which 
is  most  expensive,  and,  if  genuine,  has  a  slight  fla- 
vor of  bitter  orange.  The  'Green  Liqueur,'  which 
my  friend  'Drogan'  uses  for  his  nigh-class  creams, 
has  a  pronounced  flavor  of  Angelica.  Much  of  its 


medicinal,  blood-cooling  and  healing  qualities  are 
due  to  the  extracts  of  garden  balm,  wild  thyme, 
sea-pink  flowers,  spearmint,  red  clove  carnations, 
violets,  and  the  young  tassels  of  the  pine-trees. 
There  are  many  seeds  also  used  in  its  composition, 
such  as  coriander,  orange  pips,  cucumbers,  almonds, 
pistachio  nuts,  etc.  The  green  chartreuse  is  the 
most  popular  of  the  four  kinds,  and  a  small  glass  of 
this  liqueur,  with  a  dash  of  Cognac  in  it,  is  one  of 
the  finest  after-dinner  stomachics  a  man  can  have. 
The  yellow  chartreuse  stands  next  in  order,  and  is 
more  popular  on  the  Continent  than  in  this  country. 
It  is  far  from  being  so  spirituous  in  character  as  the 
green  chartreuse,  averaging  from  12  to  14  degrees 
of  alcoholic  strength.  Next  comes  the  far-famed 
'Balm'  chartreuse,  which  is  of  a  very  pale  straw 
color,  one  might  almost  term  it  white.  Here  the 
garden  and  other  balsams  predominate;  its  qualities 
are  nerve-soothing,  healing  and  cooling." 

CHARTREUSE— An  ornamental  mould  of  veg- 
etables, either  cold  or  hot.  {See  illustration  on 
page  117.)  A  cold  decorative  chartreuse  is  made 
by  cutting  cooked  vegetables  of  different  colors 
into  blocks,  heating  them  in  aspic  jelly  and  build- 
ing them  in  patterns  upon  the  interior  of  a  mould, 
and  filling  the  inside  with  green  peas  in  jelly  or 
any  similar  material.  CHARTREUSE  A  LA  MIKADO — 
Forcemeat  of  chicken,  highly  seasoned  with  aro- 
matic salt,  is  filled  into  rings  of  sliced  cooked  car- 
rots and  beets,  dipped  in  jelly  and  a  mould  lined 
with  them;  filled  up  with  chicken  and  green  peas  in 
jelly.  CHARTREUSE  HOT  —  A  small  mould  lined 
with  blocks  of  cooked  carrots,  turnips  and  beets,  the 
interior  filled  with  well-seasoned  cabbage  drained 
and  chopped,  or  with  potato,  parsnip,  etc.  Made  hot 
and  turned  out  on  a  dish. — The  chartreuse  of  veg- 
etables derives  the  name  from  the  same  monks  of 
Chartreuse  to  whom  the  chartreuse  liqueur  is  cred- 
ited; it  was  one  of  their  fast-day  dishes,  and  strictly 
made  is  entirely  of  vegetables.  There  is  a  malicious 
story,  however,  in  circulation  that  the  good  men, 
having  the  inside  of  their  ornamental  dish  filled  with 
cooked  cabbage,  excellently  seasoned,  rolled  up  and 
systematically  placed  in  rows,  used  to  find  a  boneless 
joint  of  a  partridge  rolled  up  in  each  leaf,  like  the 
filling  of  a  cigar,  and  regarding  it  as  a  miracle  ate 
the  meat  in  silence.  CHARTREUSE  OF  PARTRIDGES — 
Cooked  joints  of  partridges  imbedded  in  the  cabbage 
of  the  hot  chartreuse  before  described.  CHAR- 
TREUSE or  LAMB  AU  GASTRONOME — Breast  of  lamb, 
cooked  and  pressed,  cut  in  blocks;  cooked  heart  let 
tuce;  the  two  filled  in  a  mould  in  alternate  order, 
pressed  in,  made  hot  in  steamer;  turned  out,  and 
served  with  white  sauce.  LINING  FOR  CHARTREUSE- 
IS  best  made  by  cutting  the  vegetables,  either  cooked 
or  raw,  with  a  column  (tube)Jcutter  like  bottle  corks, 
the  ends  showing  outside,  the  length  giving  room 
to  build  upon.  CHARTREUSE  AUX  POULETS  A  LA 
REINE — A  delicious,  but  rather  expensive  entree,  the 
wall  of  the  chartreuse  being  formed  of  small  circles 
alternately  of  truffles  and  tongue. 


THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


273 


CHA 
CHASSEUR  (Fr.)— Hunter. 

CHATAIGNES  (Fr.)— Chestnuts,  the  small  kind. 
Marrons  are  large  chestnuts. 

CHATEAUBRIAND— Name  of  aJFrench  states- 
man. First  applied  to  fillet  beefsteaks  cooked  be- 
tween two  ordinary  steaks,  their  juice  being  squeezed 
over  it  for  sauce;  now  it  has  come  to  mean  simply  a 
fillet  (tenderloin)  of  beef,  or  slice  of  the  fillet,  with 
Chateaubriand  sauce.  CHATEAUBRIAND  SAUCE— 
Brown  meat  gravy,  or  beef  extract,  mixed  with  but- 
ter, parsley  and  lemon  juice. 

CHAUD  (Fr.)— Hot. 

CHAUD-FROID  (Fr.)— Literally  hot-cold.  The 
term  has  a  definite  meaning-  in  cookery,  being  the 
name  of  a  certain  sort  of  jellied  sauce;  still  it  is  one 
of  the  odd  names  which  the  French  themselves  can- 
not give  a  reason  for.  It  is  supposed,  however,  that 
it  took  its  name  from  Cardinal  Mazarin's  famous 
cook,  who  invented  it;  his  name  was  Chauffroi  (that 
name  is  the  original  of  Geoffrey  and  Jeffrey).  An- 
other story  has  been  told  in  regard  to  it,  that  it  orig- 
inated with  the  proud  and  haughty  Duke  de  Rohan, 
of  great  repute  as  an  epicure  in  his  time,  who,  while 
at  dinner,  was  sent  for  in  haste  by  the  king  and  or- 
dered his  favorite  dinner  of  fricasseed  chicken  to  be 
reserved  till  his  return.  When  afterwards  it  was 
served  to  him  again  he  complained  that  it  was 
nichaiid  ni  froid  (neither  hot,  nor  cold),  yet  praised 
it  for  its  richness  so  muchjthat  his  imitators  took 
the  hint,  and  the  dish  had  a  run.  CHAUDFROID 
SAUCE — Is  a  rich  gravy,  made  by  boiling  down  game 
or  poultry  with  aromatics,  and  after  straining  adding 
enough  gelatine  to  make  it  bright-brown  jelly,  or, 
rather,  a  jellied  gravy.  CHAUDFROID  OF  PAR- 
TRIDGES—  The  cooked  meat  cut  in  dice,  warmed  in 
chaudfroid  sauce,  stirred  about  until  cold;  served 
cold  in  caisses,  crouslades,  casseroles,  rolls,  paste 
shells,  patty  cases,  etc.  Other  meats  the  same  way, 
but  the  sauce  is  made  cream -white  for  chaudfroid  of 
chicken.  CHAUDFROID  OF  RABBIT- — After  roasting 
or  stewing,  the  rabbit  is  cut  into  joints,  bones  taken 
out,  and  warm  cooked  sausage  meat  inserted.  When 
cold,  the  pieces  are  covered  with  chaudfroid  sauce; 
served  with  border  of  endive.  CHAUDFROID  OF 
EGGS — Hard-boiled  eggs,  an  opening  cut  in  the  side, 
and  yolks  extracted;  mince  of  truffles,  tongue, 
chicken  and  mushrooms  in  thick  sauce  filled  into  the 
whites;  aperture  stopped,  eggs  covered  with  chaud- 
froid sauce,  cold;  served  with  aspic. 

CHEDDAR— An  English  variety  of  cheese. 

CHEESE — Served  in  small  squares  and  almost 
invariably  eaten  with  the  fingers.  The  last  course 
of  a  dinner,  but  often  in  the  form  of  canapes  and 
other  made  dishes,  appearing  as  well  among  the 
hot  hors  d'ceirvres  near  the  beginning.  A  chemist 
has  been  wrestling  with  the  difficulty  of  the  indi- 
gestibility  of  cheese  in  the  case  of  weak  stomachs, 
and  claims  to  have  made  the  discovery  that  a  %  oz. 
of  bicarbonate  of  potash  in  a  pound  of  grated  cheese 


CHE 

stirred  over  the  fire  with  some  milk  till  it  dissolves, 
makes  a  soluble  cheese  that  is  easily  digested.  HY- 
GIENIC CHEESE  CUSTARD — Cheese  with  milk  and 
potash  as  named;  mustard,  pepper,  salt,  and  eggs, 
poured  like  an  omelet  in  hot  buttered  dish,  and 
baked.  CHEESE  PUDDING — Same  mixture  with 
more  milk,  poured  to  a  dish  of  slices  of  bread,  and 
baked.  WELSH  RAREBIT — Original  recipe:  J£  Ib. 
cheese  in  small  bits,  %  glass  ale,  lump  of  butter 
mixed  by  stirring  over  a  brisk  fire,  pepper,  salt,  and 
dry  mustard  added,  poured  over  squares  of  toast. 
POTTED  CHEESE — Dry  pieces  of  cheese  pounded  fine 
with  J^  Ib.  butter  for  every  pound;  pepper,  cayenne, 
dry  mustard;  pressed  down  into  jars  to  keep  for 
sandwiches  and  cheese  toasts.  CHEESE  FRITTERS — 
Grated  cheese,  bread  crumbs  and  eggs  beaten  well 
together;  fried  in  small  lumps  of  butter.  CHEESE 
TOAST — Cheese  and  butter  melted  together,  on  fried 
bread.  CHEESE  AND  MACARONI — One  way  of  doing 
it  in  individual  style  is  to  place  the  cooked  macaroni 
In  the  dish,  dredge  grated  cheese  and  bread  crumbs 
over,  and  brown  each  dish  as  it  is  sent  in  with  the 
salamander.  Ordinary  macaroni  and  cheese  has 
layers  of  macaroni,  cheese  sprinkled  over,  a  sauce 
poured  in,  crumbs  or  cracker  dust  on  top,  and  baked 
brown.  There  are  other  ways,  however;  the  ordin- 
ary hotel  Macaroni  and  Cheese  a  la  Genoise  is  but 
boiled  macaroni  with  grated  Parmesan  (which  comes 
ready-grated  in  bottles)  dredged  over  and  a  spoonful 
of  tomato  sauce  besides.  CHEESE  SOUFFLES — .Made 
of  J^  Ib.  soft  cheese,  -2  oz.  flour,  i  oz.  butter,  salt, 
cayenne;  all  mixed  with  3  yolks  and  the  whites 
whipped  to  froth;  baked  in  cases  or  cups.  Must  be 
served  hot.  CHEESE  BALLS  — Whites  of  2  eggs 
whipped  stiff,  2  oz.  Parmesan  cheese  grated  (or 
other  dry  cheese),  stirred  together,  salt,  cayenne, 
dropped  in  hot  lard  and  fried  like  fritters;  served 
very  hot.  BAKED  CHEESE  (restaurant  specialty) — 
Four  oz.  butter,  %  pint  water  boiled,  7  oz.  flour 
stirred  in;  when  partly  cooked,  4  yolks  beaten,  then 
4  whites  whipped,  4  oz.  grated  cheese;  poured  in 
dish,  covered  with  very  thin  slices  of  cheese;  egged 
over;  baked.  KINDS  OF  CHEESE— Of  18  varieties 
experimented  with,  Cheddar  cheese  was  found  to  be 
most  easily  digested,  4  hours;  skim  Swiss  cheese 
requires  10  hours.  Fat  cheeses  are  most  digestible. 
CHEESE  WITH  ASPARAGUS — Cheese  assimilates  de- 
liciously  with  most  varieties  of  succulent  vegetables, 
and  is  particularly  good  with  asparagus.  Some 
Parmesan  or  Gruyere  should  be  grated  over  the  soft 
part.  •  CHEESE  STEWED  WITH  ALE — Is  much  easier 
of  digestion  than  when  toasted.  The  only  post- 
prandial dish  of  the  Beef  Steak  Club  used  to  be  a 
stew  of  cheese  in  a  silver  dish.  CHEESE  WITH  CUT- 
LETS— Lamb  or  mutton  chops  are  dipped  in  flour, 
beaten  egg,  grated  cheese  and  cracker  dust,  and 
fried  a  I'ltalienne.  CHEESE  STRAWS— Crisp  sticks 
of  cheese -paste  made  of  4  oz.  each  butter,  cheese 
and  flour  pounded  together,  little  water  to  moisten, 
salt,  cayenne;  cut  in  strips  and  baked ;  tied  in  bun- 
dles with  colored  ribbon.  They  are  cv.t  from  size  of 


274 


THE   STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


CHE 

straws  to  broad  strips.  PARMESAN  PYRAMIDS — 
Square  pieces  of  cheese- straw  paste  baked;  whipped 
cream  mixed  with  grated  Parmesan  on  top.  CHEESE 
RAMEQUINS — Light  cheese  souffle^  baked  in  cases, 
made  of  2  oz.  butter,  i  oz.  flour,  i  cup  milk,  6  eggs, 
6  oz.  grated  cheese;  baked.  FRIED  RAMEQUIXS — 
Puff -paste  rounds  spread  with  grated  cheese  wetted 
with  cream,  doubled  over,  edges  pinched;  fried. 
CHEESE  TRIFLES  —  Small  patty-pans  lined  with 
paste,  cheese,  cream,  and  egg  yolk  mixed  for  filling. 
CHEESE  OMELET — An  ordinary  omelet  with  grated 
or  minced  cheese  strewed  over  and  rolled  up  in  it. 
CHEESE  SOUFFLE — A  little  thick  butter-sauce  with 
grated  cheese,  yolks  and  whipped  whites;  baked  in 
a.  pan  or  case.  CHEESE  FONDU — Melted  cheese, 
butter  and  eggs  stirred  up  together.  FAILLES  AIT 
PARMESAN-Cheese  straws.  FAILLES  A  LA  SEFTON- 
Strips  of  puff-paste  with  grated  cheese  between  the 
layers  rolled  in;  egged  over  and  baked.  BISCUITS 
AU  FROMAGE — The  same  paste  of  which  cheese 
straws  are  made,  cut  into  squares  or  diamonds. 
PAIN  DE  FROMAGE — A  cheese  cream,  made  of  cus- 
tard with  salt  and  cayenne  instead  of  sugar;  3  oz. 
grated  cheese  stirred  into  yt  pint  of  the  custard  and 
J6  pint  whipped  cream,  and  J^  oz.  gelatine  to  set  it 
when  cold.  In  a  mould. 

CHEESE-CAKES— Are  not  made  of  cheese, 
though  the  best  of  them  are  made  with  a  proportion 
of  the  same  curd  of  which  the  cheese  is  made;  milk, 
curdled  with  rennet  and  drained  in  a  cloth,  is  mixed 
with  sugar,  eggs,  almonds,  etc.,  and  baked  in  patty 
pans  lined  with  paste.  They  are  small  custard - 
tarts.  They  are  all  those  things  which  the  French 
call  fanchonettes,  mirletona,  darioles  and  various 
other  names  grouped  under  one  denomination  in  En- 
glish. All  the  pie  mixtures  used  in  the  United 
States,  such  as  cocoanut  pie,  lemon  pie,  apple  cream, 
orange  cream,  cheese-curd  pie,  bread-custard  pie, 
etc.,  if  baked  in  small  pie  pans  or  patty  pans,  are 
English  cheese-cakes.  (See  cream  cheese.) 

CHEF-DE-CUISINE  (Fr.)-  Chief  of  the  kitchen; 
chief  cook;  steward  who  cooks,  or  directs  the  cook- 
ing operations,  as  the  case  may  be. 

CHELONIAN— Scientific  name  for  turtle,  some- 
times used  as  a  synonym. 

CHELSEA  BUNS— Sweet  coiled  rolls,  made  of 
flour,  milk,  sugar,  butter,  yeast  and  yolks;  the  dough 
rolled  out  and  spread  with  butter,  rolled  up  and  cut 
off  in  inch-thick  pieces  to  make  buns  which  will  part 
in  coils  where  the  butter  is.  Sugared  over. 

CHELTENHAM  PUDDING— A  baked  plum- 
pudding,  made  of  6  oz.  each  suet  and  flour,  3  oz.  each 
bread  crumbs,  sugar,  currants,  raisins,  2  eggs,  pow- 
der, nutmeg,  milk  to  mix  it  to  stiff  batter. 

CHERRIES — For  hotel  use  the  cherries  ready - 
stoned  should  be  bought;  they  are  solid  fruit  and 
serviceable,  and  otherwise  cherries  are  seldom  pitted 
and  pies  not  good.  White  California-cherries  are  a 
luxury  for  supper  fruit  and  for  ices.  CHERRY  PIE— 
Red  or  black  are  the  best;  can  be  used  whole  or  raw 


CHE 


in  pies,  same  as  apples  or  blackberries,  well  heaped 
up,  or  stewed,  in  less  quantity.  CHERRY  ROLL — 
Pitted  cherries  rolled  up  in  a  sheet  of  biscuit  dough, 
tied  in  a  cloth,  steamed,  boiled  or  baked.  CHERRY 
PUDDING — In  a  bowl  lined  with  paste  and  covered 
after  filling  with  cherries.  CHERRY  COBBLER — A 
large  pie  baked  in  a  pan,  cut  out  in  squares;  served 
with  the  syrup.  CHERRY  MERINGUE — Stewed  cher- 
ries spread  y2  inch  deep  on  a  sheet  of  cake;  whipped 
whites  with  sugar  on  top;  light  baked.  CHERRY 
ICE-CREAM — White  cherries  mixed  in  pure  cream 
and  sugar,  and  frozen.  CHERRY-\\"ATER  ICE — Red 
cherries  stewed,  strained;  juice  only  mixed  with  thin 
syrup;  frozen.  CHERRY  ICE  —  Cherries  lightly 
cooked;  juice,  water  and  .sugar  frozen;  whipped 
whites  beaten  in;  cherries  added  at  last.  CHERRY 
SHERBET — Whipped  whites  beaten  in  water  ice  after 
freezing.  FROSTED  CHERRiES-Ripe  cherries  dipped 
in  whipped  white  of  egg  and  rolled  in  powdered 
sugar;  dried  on  selves  or  paper.  CHERRY  JELI.Y — 
Gelatine  jelly  made  with  red-cherry  juice  and  whole 
white  cherries  in  it.  FLAN  DE  CERISES  — Open 
cherry  pie  with  custard  on  top  of  the  fruit;  cherry 
tarts,  turnovers,  vol-au-vents,  etc.,  same  as  other 
fruit.  CHERRY"  FRITTERS — Cherries  stewed  to  pre- 
serves, a  spoonful  between  two  very  thin  slices  of 
bread,  dipped  in  batter,  fried,  sugared  over. 

CHERVIL— One  of  the  garden  herbs  used  in 
cooking.  These  herbs  will  grow  in  any  garden, 
and  seed  is  obtainable  at  the  large  city  seed-stores. 

CHESTERFIELD  CAKES  —  A  variation  of 
lady-fingers,  having  caraway  seeds  sprinkled  on  top. 

CHESTER  PUDDING— A  meringued  cheese- 
cake, or  fanchonette,  made  of  equal  parts  sugar,  al- 
mond paste,  butter  and  raw  yolks,  mixed  with  little 
lemon  rind  and  juice;  baked  in  a  crust;  frosted  over. 

CHESHIRE  CHEESE— English  cheese  of  the 
same  style  as  the  staple  York  State  and  Western 
Reserve  cheese  of  this  country;  large,  medium  rich, 
yellow,  and  generally  of  fine  flavor. 

CHESTNUTS— There  are  two  sorts;  the  small 
kind  are  too  tedious  peeling  to  be  of  much  use  in 
cooking;  the  large  ones  are  known  as  Italian.  Thev 
are  good  food  when  cooked ;  can  be  made  up  in  manv 
ways.  The  best  sweet  potatoes  have  very  nearly 
the  same  flavor  as  chestnuts,  and  are  often  substi- 
tuted for  them  wholly  or  partly  in  chicken  stuffing 
and  purees.  CHESTNUTS  BAKED  OR  BOILED— If  the 
truth  were  known,  many  persons  would  confess 
that  chestnuts  never  look  so  tempting  as  when  they 
are  seen  at  the  corner  of  a  street  on  the  rude  baking 
contrivance  of  a  vagabond  roaster.  If  they  only  had 
the  courage  in  the  face  of  day,  they  would  gladly 
stop  to  buy  a  pennyworth  and  consent  to  pay  a  shill- 
ing. Nobody  has  been  known  to  feel  in  the  same 
way  to  boiled  chestnuts,  unless  it  be  the  Portuguese 
and  those  who  have  learnt  their  style,  which  is  to 
j  "  top  "  them,  that  is,  nip  off  their  points,  and  to  boil 
!  them  with  aniseed — half  an  ounce  to  fifty  chestnuts. 
1  CHESTNUTS  FOR  TURKEY— They  are  boiled,  peeled 


THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


275 


CUE 

and  scraped,  put  in  the  turkey  whole,  but  a  little 
seasoned  forcemeat  mixed  in  with  them  to  hold  the 
seasonings  and  absorb  the  gravy  of  the  roasting 
fowl.  CHESTNUT  FoRCEMEAT-That  which  is  named 
in  the  bills  of  fare  as  puree  de  marrons,  and  is  often 
made  of  sweet  potatoes.  If  made  genuine,  it  is 
pounded  chestnuts,  butter,  bread  crumbs,  grated 
ham,  onion,  lemon  rind,  egg  yolks,  salt  and  pepper. 
Used  to  stuff  chickens  or  any  fowl,  or  sucking  pig. 
PUREE  OF  CHESTNUTS — Like  mashed  potatoes, 
strained  through  a  seive;  served  with  turkey  wings 
and  various  entrees.  CHESTNUT  SOUP— A  cream 
soup  thickened  with  puree  of  chestnuts.  COMPOTE 
OF  CHESTNUTS —  Boiled  and  peeled,  simmered  in 
syrup,  flavored  with  lemon  or  orange;  served  hot  or 
cold,  with  pastry.  CHESTNUTS  AS  A  VEGETABLE — 
Boiled,  peeled,  fried  a  little  to  remove  the  husk; 
stewed  and  served  in  various  ways  as  other  veg- 
etables. CHESTNUT  PUDDING — Puree  of  chestnuts 
and  butter,  corn  starch,  eggs,  almond  paste,  sugar, 
milk,  lemon;  baked  or  steamed.  SOUFFLE  OF  CHEST- 
NUTS— Puree  of  chestnuts  with  sugar,  vanilla  and 
white  of  an  egg;  made  into  very  small  balls;  dipped 
into  white  of  egg  and  sugar  twice;  dry-baked  in  a 
slow  oven.  CHESTNUT  FLOUR — "One  may  often 
wonder,  in  reading  some  of  Ouida's  novels,  at  the 
number  of  times  she  mentions  chestnuts  as  a  food  of 
the  Italians,  particularly  those  of  Tuscany.  The 
Greeks  and  Romans  used  this  kind  of  food,  and  at 
one  time  the  Arcadians  subsisted  almost  wholly  on 
this  farinaceous  nut.  In  many  parts  of  Italy  its 
flour  is  used  in  preference  to  that  of  wheat  or  corn. 
The  nuts  are  ground  into  flour  in  the  same  manner 
as  wheat  and  corn,  and  from  this  flour  various  dishes 
are  made,  us  well  as  cakes,  fritters,  and  even  bread, 
and  it  is  sweet,  agreeable  to  the  taste,  and  healthy." 
POUDING  AUX  MARRONS — A  mould  of  chestnut  flour, 
butter,  milk,  eggs,  sugar,  vanilla;  it  is  served  with 
apricot  syrup.  CHATAIGNES  CROQUANTES— Same  as 
souffle  above.  GATEAU  DE  MARRONS — Same  mix- 
ture steamed  as  a  pudding.  MARRONS  A  LA  CRE.ME- 
Minced  chestnuts  covered  with  wrhipped  cream. 
MAKRONS  GLACES — Candied  chestnuts.  DEVILLED 
CHESTNUTS — Same  way  as  salted  almonds;  peeled, 
thrown  into  hot  clarified  butter,  salt  and  cayenne; 
fried  yellow  or  light  brown. 

CHEVRETTES  (Fr.)— Prawns;  large  shrimps; 
the  Barataria  shrimps. 

CHEVREUIL  (Fr.)— Roebuck;  venison. 

CHICORY — Green  salad;  endive;  curled  endive; 
succory.  There  are  two  or  three  varieties,  not  more 
different  than  varieties  of  lettuces.  CHICORY  WITH 
'GRAVY — Chicory  cooked  like  spinach  or  greens. 
CHICORY  ROOT— The  great  coffee-adulterant.  Those 
who  do  not  care  for  the  loss  of  the  stimulating  qual- 
ities of  coffee  learn  to  like  the  taste  of  the  chicory 
mixture.  An  act  was  once  passed  to  prohibit  the 
adulteration  with  chicory,  but  the  consumption  of 
coffee  af  terwards  decreased ;  it  was  found  that  people 
wanted  chicory  in  their  coffee,  and  the  act  was  re- 


CHI 

scinded.  The  mixture  is  about  one-fourth  chicory 
to  three-fourths  coffee.  Chicory  is  cultivated  as  a 
field  crop;  the  roots  arc  dried,  roasted,  ground;  can 
be  bought  in  packages  separately  and  mixed  to  suit. 
It  is  about  one-third  the  price  of  coffee.  The  mix- 
ture cannot  easily  be  detected  when  there  is  milk  in 
the  coffee;  but  those  who  drink  coffee  without  milk 
or  cream  become  aware  of  the  presence  of  chicory  at 
once.  "  Anent  chicory  in  coffee  I  have  an  anecdote 
to  tell.  President  GreVy  loves  his  Mocha  better  than 
most  men,  and  as  a  consequence  hates  the  name  of 
chicory  as  much  as  we  may  suppose  him  to  hate  the 
name  of  Prince  Bismarck.  Accordingly,  when  h«i 
ever  goes  into  a  country  inn  or  hotel,  he  asks  the 
waiter  if  there  is  any  chicory  in  the  house.  The 
waiter  brings  him  some.  'More,  more!"  cries  the 
President;  *I  want  lots  of  chicory — lots.'  This  he 
repeats,  until  the  waiter  answers  in  despair  that 
there  is  not  another  grain  of  chicory  left  in  the  house. 
'  Well,  then,'  says  the  President,  '  you  may  make  me 
a  cup  of  coffee  now.'  "  Chicory  is  not  in  general 
use  in  the  United  States;  most  people  are  in  the 
habit  of  buying  their  coffee  in  the  berry,  and  either 
grinding  it  or  having  it  ground  by  the  grocer. 
Chicory  in  separate  form,  when  wanted,  can  be 
bought  ready,  put  up  in  convenient  packages,  at  all 
the  large  grocery  stores. 

CHICKEN— In  the  United  States  chicken  is  the 
name  commonly  applied  to  fowls  of  any  age,  the 
word  fowl  being  but  seldom  used;  and  this  practice 
has  been  so  extended  that  it  takes  in  "  prairie 
chickens"  and  "guinea  chickens."  SMOTHERED 
CHICKEN — Home  fashion  of  braising;  halves  of 
chicken  cooked  in  a  covered  pot  with  live  coals  on 
the  lid ;  fat  and  seasonings  cooked  with  the  chickens, 
and  gravy  made  of  the  remaining  liquor.  Imitated 
by  baking  with  sauce  in  tJie  pan  in  the  oven;  the 
chickens  floured  on  top.  FRIED  CHICKEN— Joints 
rolled  in  flour  and  cooked  in  a  kettle  of  hot  lard. 
CHICKEN  A  LA  MARENGO — Cut  up  in  joints,  rolled 
in  flour,  fried  in  oil,  sauce  made  in  the  pan,  the  oil 
remaining  in  it;  dished  in  pyramid  form,  and  sauce 
poured  over.  "On  the  evening  of  the  battle  of 
Marengo,  the  First  Consul  was  very  hungry  after 
the  agitation  of  the  day,  and  a  fowl  was  ordered 
with  all  expedition.  The  fowl  was  procured,  but 
there  was  no  butter  at  hand,  and  none  could  be 
found  in  the  neighborhood.  There  was  oil  in  abund- 
ance, however;  and  the  cook,  having  poured  a  cer- 
tain quantity  into  his  skillet,  put  in  the  fowl,  a  clove 
of  garlic  and  other  seasoning,  with  a  little  white 
wine,  the  best  the  country  afforded;  he  then  gar- 
nished it  with  mushrooms,  and  served  it  up  hot. 
This  dish  proved  the  second  conquest  of  the  day,  as 
the  First  Consul  found  it  most  agreeable  to  his  pal- 
ate, and  expressed  his  satisfaction.  Ever  since,  a 
fowl  a  la  Marengo  is  a  favorite  dish  with  all  lovers 
of  good  cheer."  FILETS  DE  VOLAILLE  A  LA  DUMAS- 
Breast  of  chicken,  each  one  cut  in  two  raw,  spread 
with  a  puree  of  cucumbers  in  white  sauce,  breaded 
and  fried;  served  on  a  pur£e  of  cucumbers.  FILKTS 


276 


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CHI 

DE  VOLAILLE  AUX  CoNCOMBRES— Breast  of  chicken 
breaded,  arranged  on  the  dish  with  stewed  cucum- 
bers, and  puree  of  cucumbers  for  sauce.  FILETS  DE 
VOLAILLE  A  LA  NESSELRODE— Breasts  of  chickens 
served  cold,  masked  with  a  white  chaudfroid  sauce; 
alternately  with  glazed  slices  of  tongue  and  chopped 
eggs,  a  mayonnaise  salad  in  center.  FILETS  DE 
VOLAILLE  AUX  POINTES  D'ASPERGES — Hot  dish; 
breasts  of  fowl  coated  with  white  supreme  sauce 
ranged  around  a  pile  of  asparagus-points  in  center 
of  dish;  alternating  with  slices  of  tongue.  SUPREME 
DE  VOLAILLE  AUX  TRUFFES — Breast  of  chicken 
coated  with  white  supreme  sauce  ranged  around  a 
pile  of  truffles  cooked  in  wine.  SUPREME  DE  VO- 
LAILLE A  LA  ROYALE — Breasts  of  chickens  coated 
with  white  supreme  sauce,  a  slice  of  black  truffle  on 
each,  ranged  upon  an  ornamental  border  of  veg- 
etables heaped  in  the  center.  CHAUDFROID  DE  FI- 
LETS DE  VOLAILLE  AU  SUPREME — Cold  dish;  breasts 
of  chickens  coated  with  white  supreme  sauce,  decor- 
ated with  truffles,  ranged  around  a  center  of  truffles 
in  chaudfroid  sauce.  SAUTE  DE  FILETS  DE  VTOLAILLE 
A  LA  CARDINAL — Hot  dish;  breast  of  chickens  fried 
in  butter,  slices  of  truffle  stewed  in  wine  alternating 
in  the  dish;  cardinal  sauce  in  the  center.  FILLET 
OF  CHICKEN  A  LA  DAUPHINE—  Breasts  of  chickens 
laid  open,  forcemeat  inclosed,  rolled  up,  covered 
with  pork  slices,  simmered  in  butter  and  broth, 
dished  on  shape  of  fried  bread;  truffle  sauce. 
CHICKENS  A  L'lvoiRE-Chickens  ivory- white;  chick- 
ens cooked  with  sliced  lemon  and  fat  salt  pork  on 
the  breast  in  seasoned  broth,  white  supreme  sauce 
poured  over;  red  tongue  for  garnish.  CHICKENS 
A  LA  CHIVRY — Boiled  in  seasoned  broth;  served 
with  green  herbs  in  rings  of  onion  parboiled,  and 
ravigote  sauce.  CHICKEN  A  LA  PROVENCALE — Cut 
up,  fried  in  oil  with  garlic  and  seasonings,  sauce  of 
espagnole,  wine  and  tomatoes,  lemon  juice  and  pars- 
ley. POULETS  A  LA  TARTARS — Breaded,  broiled; 
served  with  tartare  sauce  and  pickles.  POULETS 
SAUTE  AUX  TRUFFES  —  Cut  up,  fried  in  butter; 
served  in  brown  sauce  with  truffles.  POULETS  A  LA 
PROVENCALE — Cut  up  in  a  pan;  garlic,  onion,  oil, 
herbs;  white  wine  to  moisten,  white  sauce  poured 
over,  bread  crumbs  on  top;  browned  in  the  oven. 
POULETS  A  L'ORLY — Cut  up,  dried,  dipped  in  thin 
batter,  fried;  served  with  rings  of  onions  floured  and 
fried.  POULETS  A  LA  BONNE  FEMME — Stewed  in 
white  sauce.  POULETS  A  LA  CHASSEUR — Marinaded 
in  oil,  lemon  juice,  onions,  herbs;  breaded,  broiled; 
served  with  wine  sauce  with  chopped  ham.  POULETS 
EN  KARI — Curry  of  chicken.  FRITOT  DE  POULET — 
Cut  up,  marinaded  in  oil  with  seasonings,  floured 
and  fried ;  tomato  sauce.  FRICASSEE  DE  POULET — 
Stewed  in  white  sauce  with  mushrooms.  FRICASSEE 
DE  POULET  A  L'ANCIENNE — Stewed  in  cream  sauce 
with  spring  onions.  CHICKENS  A  LAMONTMORENCY- 
Stuffed  with  forcemeat,  sweetbreads,  truffles  and 
mushrooms  minced ;  breasts  larded,  roasted  in  the 
oven;  sauce  with  espagnole  in  the  pan;  garnish  of 
sweetbreads  and  mushrooms.  CHICKENS  A  LA  ST. 


CLOUD —  White  dish,  with  red  tongue  and  black 
truffles  inserted  in  the  breasts,  and  pork  slices  over; 
simmered  in  broth;  white  supreme  sauce.  FILETS 

DE     POULARDES     AU     SUPREME—  Breasts     of    fowls 

simmered  in  seasoned  stock  with  butter,  in  a  circle 
in  the  dish;  supreme  sauce  over.  FILETS  DE 
POULARDES  AUX  CHAMPIGNONS — Covered  with 
cream  sauce  with  mushrooms.  FILETS  DE  POU- 
LARDES A  LA  DUCHESSE — Chicken  breasts  flattened; 
half  of  them  larded,  braised,  glazed:  half  plain  saute; 
dished  alternately  in  a  circle,  cream  sauce  with 
cock's  combs  in  the  center.  EPIGRAMME  OF 
CHICKEN  A  LA  MACEDOINE — Imitation  of  cutlets 
made  with  the  breasts  flattened,  breaded,  bones  in- 
serted,fried  ;  imitation  cutlets  made  of  the  legs.boned, 
stuffed,  sewed  up,  pressed,  simmered,  with  gravy; 
dished  alternately  in  a  circle,  macedoinein  the  center. 
FILETS  DE  POULARDES  A  LA  TALMA — The  breasts 
divided  into  upper  and  minion  fillets  (natural  divi- 
sion), larger  ones  larded,  braised,  glazed;  minion 
fillets  studded  with  green  string  beans  and  fried  in 
butter;  spinach  in  center,  brown  sauce  under. 
FILETS  DE  VOLAILLE  A  L'AVBASSADKICE— Breasts 
sliced,  forcemeat  spread,  smoothed,  shaped,  egged 
over,  half  of  them  covered  with  chopped  truffles 
and  breadcrumbs,  others  with  chopped  ham  and 
breadcrumbs,  cooked  in  saute  pan  in  the  oven, 
served  with  puree  of  cucumbers.  ASPIC  DE  POULET 
A  LA  PRINCESSE — Cold  ornamental  dish,  cooked 
breast  of  chickens  in  oval  slices,  covered  with  jelly 
singly  spread  in  a  dish,  cut  out  with  a  cutter  when 
set,  each  slice  with  the  jelly  coating  it;  served  with 
salad  and  aspic  border.  COTELETTES  DE  VOLAILLE 
A  LA  DAUPHINE — Legs  of  chicken  with  thigh-bone 
removed,  steeped  in  oil,  breaded,  fried,  served  with 
vegetables  in  the  center  and  cream  sauce.  CUTLETS 
OF  CHICKEN  A  L'ALLEMANDE — Minced  raw  chicken 
meat  and  pieces  of  cooked  chicken  in  small  squares 
mixed  together,  red  tongue,  mushrooms  and  sea- 
sonings mixed  in,  making  a  chicken  sausage  meat. 
Shaped  like  cutlets,  cooked  in  saucepan  with  butter, 
cooled,  pressed,  breaded,  fried,  chicken  bones  in- 
serted ;  Allemande  sauce.  CUTLETS  OF  CHICKEN  A 
LA  VILLEROI — Minced  cooked  chicken  made  up  as 
for  croquettes,  shaped,  dippe<J  in  the  sauce  of  onions, 
parsley,  flour,  yolks,  butter,  broth,  etc.,  breaded  and 
fried;  tomato  sauce.  CUTLETS  OF  CHICKEN  A  LA 
MONTPENSIER — Breasts  of  chicken,  raw,  chopped, 
mixed  with  butter  and  cream,  shaped  like  lamb 
chops,  breaded,  fried  one  side  at  a  time  in  little 
butter;  tomato  sauce.  CHICKEN  SAUTE  A  LA  PRIN- 
TANlERE-Cut  up,  fried  in  clear  butter;  sauce  of 
white  wine  and  espagnole,  green  peas  and  string 
beans  mixed  in,  poured  over  chicken.  SALADE  DE 
FILETS  DE  VOLAILLE  A  LA  BRUNOW— Cold  dish;  a 
white  aspic  of  cream  and  jelly,  chicken  meat,  slices 
of  cooked  cucumber  and  green  peas,  cut  out  when 
cold  and  set  served  on  a  salad  border  with  white 
tartar  sauce.  CHARTREUSE  DE  VOLAILLE — Cooked 
pieces  of  chicken  in  forcemeat  in  a  mould  lined  with 
vegetables.  CREME  DE  VOLAILLE — Puree  of  chicken 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


277 


CHI 

mixed  with  cream  sauce  and  eggs,  steamed  in  a 
mould  lined  with  truffles  and  tongue— a  chartreuse. 
PETITS  SOUFFLES  DE  VOLAILLE— White  meat  of 
chicken,  pounded,  passed  through  a  seive,  mixed 
with  butter,  cream,  yolks,  whipped  whites,  baked 
•in  small  paper  or  paste  souffle  cases.  SOUFFLE 
GLACE  DE  VOLAILLE  —  Frozen  mould  of  chicken 
salad  with  whipped  jelly.  QUENELLES  DE  VO- 
LAILLE—Pounded  white  chicken  meat,  with  season- 
ings made  up  in  olive  shapes,  poached,  or  breaded, 
and  fried;  served  with  dressed  vegetables.  QUE- 
NELLES DE  VOLAILLE  EN  DEMI-DEUIL  —  Chicken 
forcemeat  balls  in  half-mourning;  white  quenelles, 
half  of  them  poached,  half  rolled  in  chopped  black 
truffles;  served  with  white  supreme  sauce  and  black 
truffle  garnish.  QUENELLES  DE  VOLAILLE  A  LA 
RUSSE — Quenelles  of  fine  chicken-forcemeat,  oval, 
flattened,  with  oval  slices  of  tongue  to  match  in  size, 
glazed;  dressed  in  a  crown  (encouronne) alternately; 
sauce  suprfime.  BOUDINS  DE  VOLAILLE  A  LA  Lu- 
CULLUS — Quenelles  of  chicken  with  truffle  purde  in 
the  center  of  each;  served  in  an  ornamental  crous- 
tade  with  Allemande  sauce.  CHICKEN  CROQUETTES 
A  L'ITALIENNE — Finely  cut  cooked  chicken  with 
some  mushrooms;  thick  butter-and-flour  sauce  made 
containing  minced  onion,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg, 
lemon  juice,  parsley,  raw  yolks;  chicken  mixed  in, 
cooled;  made  in  shapes  or  long  rolls;  breaded,  fried; 
white  Italian  sauce.  CHICKEN  RISSOLES — Raw 
chicken -meat  minced  with  fat  salt  pork  and  herbs, 
long  thin  rolls  inclosed  in  thin  paste,  edges  joined 
with  egg;  fried  in  lard;  ends  trimmed  off.  CROME- 
SKIES  OF  CHICKEN — Same  mixture  as  croquettes; 
small  finger -lengths  rolled  in  shavings  of  cooked 
fat  salt  pork,  dipped  in  batter  and  fried.  POTAGE 
A  LA  REINE — A  cream-of -chicken  soup,  the  chicken 
pounded  and  passed  through  a  seive.  PATTIES  OF 
FOWL  A  LA  CORDON  BLEU  —  Vol-au-vent  patty 
cases,  white  puree  of  breast  of  chicken,  and  cream 
enough  to  nearly  fill  them;  whipped  white  of  eggs 
salted,  colored  green  with  parsley  juice  heaped  in 
each  patty;  slightly  baked  to  set;  served  on  lace 
paper.  STUFFED  PULLET,  TURTLE  FASHION — A 
boned  chicken  made  to  look  like  a  turtle ;  served  hot. 
Bones  taken  out,  head  left  on  and  half  covered  with 
the  skin  of  the  neck,  like  a  turtle's  head;  body  filled 
with  forcemeat  and  sewed  up;  chicken  feet  skinned, 
inserted  for  fins.  The  chicken  braised  in  stock, 
decorated  in  dish  with  truffles  to  imitate  shell. 
PULLED  .  FOWL— Pulled  meat  from  cooked  fowls, 
lightly  floured  and  fried  in  butter,  then  stewed  in 
stock,  thick  gravy  with  starch,  and  quince  jelly; 
garnished  with  cress  and  pickled  fruit.  CHICKEN 
CUKRY  -Mr.  Friday  Madrassi's  specialty.  A  large 
chicken  cut  in  joints;  2  onions  and  3  oz.  butter  fried 
together;  chicken  added,  and  2  tablespoons  curry 
powder,  salt,  cupful  of  gravy;  gently  stewed  till 
tender,  finished  with  i  tablespoon  lime  juice;  served 
with  rice.  CHICKEN  A  LA  D'ESCARS— The  Due 
d'Escars  was  one  of  half  a  dozen  nobles  whom 
Louis  XV  associated  with  himself  in  a  series  of 


CHI 

cooking  sprees,  when  they  prepared  their  own  grand 
suppers,  each  member  carrying  out  his  own  part. 
The  king  would  devote  himself  to  poulel  an  basilic 
and  preparations  of  eggs,  in  which  he  was  highly 
skilled.  The  Due  de  Gontant  would  prepare  the 
salad;  the  Due  de  Coigni  would  superintend  the 
roil — each  one  of  the  party  being  famous  for  cer- 
tain dishes— and  there  were  never  fewer  than  forty - 
eight.  D'Escars  died  of  a  cramp  colic  through  eat- 
ing a  little  of  the  king's  puree  of  truffles;  the  king 
looked  upon  it  as  an  insult  and  would  not  attend  the 
funeral.  However,  the  d'Escars'  chicken  was 
trussed  as  for  boiling,  the  breasts  larded,  placed  in  a 
stewpan  lined  with  slices  of  bacon,  a  slice  of  ham, 
onion  stuck  with  cloves,  herbs,  carrot,  stock  and 
sherry;  cooked  over  moderate  fire  with  coals  on  the 
lid  to  brown  the  larding;  sauce  strained,  skimmed, 
reduced  to  glaze.  POULET  A  LA  BOIVIN — Specialty 
of  a  French  restaurant.  Chicken  cut  up,  browned 
in  a  pan  with  butter,  button  onions,  potato  balls 
(scooped  out  of  raw  potatoes);  seasoned;  finished  by 
baking  in  the  oven  with  blanched  and  quartered 
artichokes  in  sauce  pan;  gravy  made  in  pan  with 
meat  glaze  and  tarragon;  little  heaps  of  the  arti- 
chokes, potatoes,  etc.,  atound  the  chicken  in  dish, 
and  sauce  over.  BRAISED  FOWLS  WITH  TOMATO 
SAUCE — The  breast  bone  removed  without  dividing 
the  fowl,  butter,  salt,  pepper  and  lemon  juice  put  in 
place  of  it;  slices  of  lemon  on  the  breasts;  bacon 
slices  in  the  pan;  braised,  glazed;  tomato  sauce. 
CuT-Up  FOWL — To  avoid  difficulty  of  carving, 
carved  in  kitchen,  bound  up  again  with  narrow  rib- 
bon, easily  severed  by  one  who  must  carve  at  table. 
CHICKEN  FRITTERS — Pieces  of  cold  roast  chicken 
soaked  in  seasoned  vinegar;  dipped  in  batter;  fried. 
INDIAN-FRIED  CHICKEN— Joints  rubbed  with  curry 
powder,  fried  in  oil;  served  on  bed  of  fried  onions. 
ROAST  FOWL — With  slices  of  lemon  on  breast;  fowl 
wrapped  up  in  thin  slices  of  bacon  and  buttered 
sheet  of  paper;  roasted  an  hour;  giblet  or  tomato 
sauce.  CHICKEN  ROLLS  — Long  finger-rolls  split 
half  open,  and  inside  hollowed  out,  filled  with 
chicken  forcemeat,  closed;  dipped  in  egg,  fried  light 
brown;  parsley  garnish.  ROAST  PULLET  AU  Jus — 
"  At  the  Cafe  Royal,  Regent  street,  famed  alike  for 
its  cuisine  and  its  cellar,  an  enjoyable  dish  is  a  '  sur- 
rey chick,'  otherwise  a  roast  pullet  or  capon,  served 
simply  aujus,  with  watercress.  This  is  the  equiv- 
alent of  the  poTilet  de  Parilly  one  may  enjoy  at 
Bignon's  restaurant,  so  dear  to  Parisian  epicures." 
CHICKEN  FILLETS  —  Larded  fillets,  having  4  fine 
strips  of  pork  for  each,  seasoned,  breaded,  fried ;  a 
spoonful  of  tartare  sauce  served  on  each  one.  POU- 
LET A  LA  VIENNOISE — Halves  of  chickens  steeped 
in  oil,  drained,  breaded,  broiled;  served  on  toast 
with  white  sauce  in  which  whipped  raw  cream 
is  stirred  at  the  last  moment.  CIGARETTES  OF 
CHICKEN  A  LA  REINE — Fine-pounded  chicken  force- 
meat, with  chopped  truffles,  rolled  to  cigar-shapes; 
breaded  and  fried.  POULET  A  LA  ALBERT  VICTOR — 
Cigarettes  of  green  herbs  and  hard-boiled  yolks- 


278 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


CHI 

forcemeat  rolled  in  shavings  of  tongue  and  ham; 
used  to  fill  up  a  boned  chicken;  larded  outside, 
breaded;  -white  mushroom  sauce.  RISSOLETTES  DE 
VOLAILLE  A  LA  PoMPADOUR-Fme-pounded  chicken 
forcemeat  (quenelle)  used  as  a  paste  to  inclose  pieces 
of  chicken-croquette  preparation,  like  square  sand- 
wiches; dipped  in  batter  and  fried.  CHICKEN  A  LA 
SONTAG — Cut  up,  fried  slightly  in  butler  with  on- 
ions and  raw  ham;  broth  added;  thickened,  strained; 
served  with  shredded  leeks  fried,  and  boiled  rice 
mixed  in  the  sauce.  CHICKEN  IN  WHITE  SAUCE— 
Whole,  trussed,  stewed  in  stock,  with  dash  of  vin- 
egar to  keep  white;  dished  with  white  sauce,  fla- 
vored with  celery;  boiled  cauliflower  garnish. 
CHICKENS  IN  BECHAMEL— Joints  of  chicken  cut  up 
after  boiling,  and  bones  taken  out;  in  cream  sauce; 
minced  parsley  on  top;  truffles  around.  SOUFFLE 
DE  GELENOTTES  A  L'ESSENCE  DE  TRUFFES — A  Par- 
isian specialty.  Pounded  breasts  of  4  chickens,  as 
for  quenelles,  mixed  with  little  white  sauce;  butter, 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  5  yolks  and  2  whites  raw, 
passed"  through  a  seive.grated  truffles  added, whipped 
cream  and  whipped  whites  in  a  buttered  mould; 
cooked  in  barn-marie;  served  with  sauce  of  wine  in 
veloute.  FRIAR'S  CHICKEN — Joints  of  chicken 
stewed  in  seasoned  broth  with  chopped  parsley; 
thickened  with  egg  yolks.  GLAZED  CHICKENS — 
English  name  for  potllets  au  supreme.  POULET  A  LA 
PARMENTIER  —  Paris  hotel  specialty.  Chicken  in 
joints  fried  in  clear  butter;  potatoes  scooped  out 
size  of  cherries  cooked  same  way;  potatoes  around 
the  chicken;  parsley  dust  overall.  CHICKEN  AND 
RICE — Stewed  chicken  taken  up,  liquor  strained  and 
rice  boiled  in  it,  along  with  seasonings;  chicken 
served  in  center.  ROAST  CHICKEN  A  LA  BRESSOISE- 
The  chickens  of  Bresse  were  mentioned  by  S.avarin 
as  of  the  highest  excellence,  owing  probably  to  the 
breed  of  fowls.  "  The  black  LaBresse  fowl,  which 
furnishes  so  much  of  the  choice  poultry  eaten  in 
Paris,  especially  the  capons  and  poulardes,  is  un- 
equaled  in  quality  of  flesh,  and  quantity  .and  weight 
of  eggs."  The  fat  chickens  are  roasted  with  bards 
of  bacon  on  the  breasts,  served  with  cress  in  the  dish 
and  sauce  of  the  chicken  drippings;  livers,  shallot 
bread  crumbs  and  orange  slices  rubbed  through  a 
seive.  POULETS  AUX  PETiTsPois-Chicken  in  joints 
stewed  in  brown  gravy;  green  peas  added,  and  on- 
ions and  parsley.  BROWN  FRICASSEE  OF  FOWL — 
Joints  fried  in  butter;  flour  stirred  in  till  brown; 
broth,  wine,  mushrooms,  parsley,  salt,  pepper; 
skimmed,  boiled  down.  CHICKEN  PANADA — For 
the  sick.  A  pure"e  of  chicken  with  milk  seasonings 
and  flour — a  cream  of  chicken  like  thick  '  soup. 
PUREE  OF  CHICKEN  [Soup]  A  LA  BEARNAISE— 
Chicken  pounded,  passed  through  a  seive;  boiling 
cream  and  almond  milk  added;  pieces  of  breast  of 
chicken  in  it;  rings  of  fried  bread  served  with  it. 
CHICKEN  SOUP  A  LA  C'HiFFONADE-Chicken  in  small 
pieces  fried  in  butter;  broth  added;  finely  shredded 
vegetables  to  finish.  CHICKENS  A  L'ITALIEXNE — 
Chickens  stuffed  with  the  chopped  livers,  bacon, 


CHI 

mushrooms,  butter,  mixed  herbs  and  spice;  covered 
with  pork  slices  and  buttered  paper ;  roasted ;  sauce  of 
blanched  parsley,  chives,  and  tarragon  leave*  minced 
in  wine;  oil,  anchovies,  lemon,  pepper,  salt,  gravy 
and  yolks  to  thicken.  SPATCHCOCK  CHICKEN — En 
glish  name.  A  boned  chicken  trimmed,  flattened 
and  broiled;  served  with  mushroom  sauce  or  made 
gravy  of  stewed  gizzard,  etc.,  w  ith  butter  and  lemon 
juice.  CROUSTADES  OF  CHICKEN— Cases  of  bread, 
shaped  like  cups,  fried  in  lard  and  drained;  filled 
with  minced  chicken  in  a  rich  sauce.  CHICKEN  PIE 
A  L'AMERICAINE — Chicken  cut  up.  backs,  necks  and 
rough  pieces  left  out  for  broth;  chicken  stewed  with 
seasoning,  milk,  parsley,  butter,  flour;  poured  in 
baking  pan,  covered  with  medium  puff  paste:  egged 
over;  baked  an  hour.  SMALL  CHICKEN  Pits  A  LA 
RESTAURATEUR — Puff-paste  flats  rolled  thin,  size  of 
palm  of  the  hand;  egged  over,  baked,  split;  chicken 
cut  in  dice  in  rich  white  sauce  placed  between  sand- 
wich fashion;  sauce  poured  aiound;  parsley  garnish 
or  chopped  yolks.  CHICKEN  PATTIES  A  LA  REIXE — 
Chicken  in  cream  sauce  in  puff- paste  patty  cases. 
CHICKEN  TO  MAKE  TENDER — The  proprietors  of  a 
sulphur  springs  hotel,  noted  for  its  fried  chickens, 
having  too  much  to  do  engaged  a  steward  to  assist 
them,  and  found  it  necessary  to  impart  to  him  their 
secret  as  follows:  "To  make  chickens  tender,  soft, 
white,  juicy,  plunge  them  the  moment  their  necks 
are  broken  into  very  cold  water  and  let  them  remain 
in  it  for  from  12  to  24  hours;  then  take  them  out, 
scald  and  remove  the  feathers  and  draw  them  as 
usual.  It  is  more  trouble  to  pick  them,  but  the  flesh 
is  incomparably  better  than  chickens  dressed  the 
common  way.  HANGING  CHICKENS — The  meat  is 
much  improved  by  keeping  a  few  days  after  killing. 
The  fried  and  roasted  chickens  which  are  com- 
plained of  as  dry  and  tasteless  are  those  cooked  as 
soon  as  killed.  PACKING  CHICKENS  UNOPENED — 
Chickens  packed  in  barrels  for  transportation  suffer 
damage  in  flavor  whichever  way  may  be  adopted; 
but  of  two  evils  the  least  is  to  have  the  chickens  not 
drawn  before  packing,  for  if  once  cut  open  they  be- 
come sour  all  through  in  a  short  time  in  the  boxes 
or  barrels. 

CHIFFON  ADE— Shredded  vegetables  for  soups. 

CHIFFONIER— A  man  who  gathers  broken 
victuals  from  the  kitchen,  sorts  and  re-sells  them. 

CHILI— Red  pepper. 

CHILI  SAUCE— Made  of  6  ripe  tomatoes,  4 
green  peppers,  i  onion,  i  tablespoon  sugar,  i  oz. 
salt,  i%  cups  vinegar,  chopped,  boiled  i  hour. 

CHILI  COLORADO  SAUCE— Made  of  the 
Mexican  sweet  red  pepper  pods  finely  minced  in  a 
vinegar  pickle;  can  be  bought  in  bottles;  favorite 
sauce  with  oysters,  cold  meats,  etc. 

CHINE  OF  PORK— The  fleshy  and  broad  part 
of  the  back-bone,  between  the  shoulders.  It  is 
roasted  plain  and  served  with  apple  sauce,  and  also 
stuffed  in  incisions  with  minced  sage  and  onions. 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


CHI 

CHEESE  COOKERY— The  Chinese  have  es- 
tablished restaurants  in  Xew  York  and  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  have  been  with  their  methods  and  ma- 
terials on  exhibition  in  London.  In  the  former 
places  they  are  at  their  best  in  a  business  way;  in 
London  they  were  in  the  hands  of  a  manager  who 
had  to  make  money  by  them,  and  they  were  under 
the  supervision  of  a  French  chef,  who  drew  up  bills 
of  fare  purporting  to  be  Chinese,  which  were  half 
made  up  of  French  dishes.  Chinese  methods  of 
cooking  and  restaurant  keeping  can  therefore  be 
seen  to  the  best  advantage  where  they  are  not  on 
exhibition,  but  pursued  with  the  view  of  making 
money  in  the  regular  course.  There  are  at  present 
eight  of  these  restaurants  in  New  York.  CHINA  IN 
XEW  YORK— The  Delmonico's  is  Hong  Ping  Lo's, 
where  one  can  order  a  "spread"  of  forty  courses 
which  it  takes  two  days  to  eat  and  •which  can  be 
had  for  the  sum  of  $50,  and  provides  enough  for  a 
party  of  six.  Here  is  a  meal  for  three  at  the  Chi- 
nese Delmonico's  and  the  prices.  We  had  tea, 
samsu  (rice  brandy),  two  kinds  of  wine;  a  dish  of 
chow-chow-sucy,  which  is  a  pungent  and  palatable 
conception  of  chicken  livers  and  gizzards,  fungi, 
bamboo  buds,  bean  sprouts,  water  chestnuts,  and 
all  manner  of  savory  spices  stewed  together — a  dish 
of  cuttlefish,  one  of  ducks'  breasts,  chickens'  wings, 
pigeons'  wings,  a  bowl  of  rice,  and  a  mooncake  by 
way  of  sweets,  and  for  this,  with  all  the  attendant 
dishes  of  sauces  and  condiments,  one  pays  $1.25. 
A  full  square  meal,  deliciously  cooked,  dainty  and 
delicate,  for  about  40  cents  apiece  or  less,  because 
there  was  enough  on  the  dishes  to  have  fed  three  or 
four  more  people.  This  fact  is  becoming  known, 
and  over  five  hundred  Americans  are  regular  cus- 
tomers at  the  Celestial  eating  house.  They  do  not 
want  them  there,  either,  because  they  are  too  cheap. 
They  study  matters  closely  and  manage  to  get  their 
meals  for  about  10  cents,  while  the  Chinese,  who 
are  all  high  livers,  spend  their  money  freely.  The 
c/iefat  Hong  Ping  Lo's  is  paid  $100  a  month  and  all 
his  expenses,  which  are  enormous  wages  for  China- 
town. Like  all  chefs,  he  is  superior,  haughty  and 
somewhat  capricious.  The  cooking  is  done  on  brick 
furnaces  and  with  hickory  wood,  and  the  half  globes 
of  iron  set  into  the  blazing  coals  cook  the  food  with 
a  rapidity  that  would  startle  an  American  cuisinier. 
The  guest  has  the  right  to  enter  the  kitchen  and  see 
if  the  cook  is  obeying  orders,  and  if  all  the  dishes 
desired  are  made  from  proper  materials.  This  priv- 
ilege is  eagerly  utilized  by  Mongolian  bon  vivants, 
who  frequently  make  rows  over  the  stove  or  kettle 
that  would  petrify  a  French  chef  with  amazement. 
But  few  dishes  are  ready  made.  Raw  materials  are- 
prepared  for  almost  every  possible  order,  and  sel- 
dom require  more  than  five  minutes  in  cooking.  The 
Chinese  system  of  eating  lends  itself  well  to  this 
practice.  All  bulky  foods  are  served  and  eaten  in 
pieces  not  larger  than  the  end  of  the  thumb.  A 
chicken's  heart,  for  example,  is  cut  into  four  slices, 
the  liver  into  eight,  an  onion  is  almost  shredded, 


CHI 

while  a  pigeon  breast  is  chopped  into  dice  as  small 
as  a  pea.  Another  aid  to  quick  cooking  is  high 
heat.  The  almond  eyed  cook  uses  kiln  dried  hickory 
or  oak  for  fuel,  and  makes  so  hot  a  fire  that  water 
over  it  explodes  rather  than  boils,  and  oil  becomes 
a  seething  mass  of  liquid  and  vapor.  A  dish  served 
under  this  regime  is  never  cold;  usually  it  is  red  hot. 
Dishes  are  never  served  "by  portion."  The  guest 
estimates  his  appetite  and  orders  accordingly.  If 
not  hungry  he  will  order,  for  example,  "five  cents 
perfumed  pork;"  if  possessing  a  good  appetite,  10; 
if  hungry,  15,  and  if  famished,  20.  The  quantity 
ordered  is  measured  out  almost  mathematically. 
Readers  of  the  daily  press  know  what  strange 
dishes  and  stranger  customs  mark  these  eating 
houses.  MENUS  OF  FIFTY  COURSES— Dinners  that 
begin  with  candied  fruits,  and  close  with  delicate 
soups  and  crystallized  flowers;  delicacies  from 
Corea,  Japan,  Tonquin  and  Manchooria;  liqueurs 
such  as  no  chemist  ever  destilled.  CHINA  AT  HOME- 
The  poorest  family  in  China  rarely  sits  down  to 
a  meal  of  less  than  three  varieties  of  hot  cooked 
food,  and  there  are  few  more  interesting  sights  than 
watching  the  preparation  of  the  family  meal.  The 
boiler  in  which  the  staff  of  life  in  Southern  China — 
rice — is  prepared  is  made  of  the  thinnest  cast  iron, 
so  thin  that  a  very  slight  tap  is  enough  to  fracture 
it,  heated  over  an  earthenware  vessel,  containing  a 
few  pieces  of  charcoal;  and,  directly  the  cooking  is 
completed,  each  piece  of  charcoal  is  carefully  lifted 
out,  extinguised,  and  put  away  for  future  use.  An 
enterprising  European  firm  once  thougtit  to  super- 
sede the  "gimcrack"  native  pot  by  a  good  substantial 
article  of  Birmingham  make;  but  the  enterprise 
proved  a  failure.  CHINESE  DRIED  PROVISIONS — 
About  150  different  dried  substances  were  im- 
ported by  them  for  use  at  the  London  exhibition. 
At  the  stalls  in  Canton  dried  ducks  may  be  seen 
boned,  flattened  and  so  little  changed  by  drying  that 
it  is  possible  to  tell  what  kind  they  are.  Rats  are 
dried  in  like  manner.  There  are  castes  and  classes 
in  China  and  some  of  these  edibles  are  considered  as 
belonging  to  the  customary  diet  of  the  lower  classes 
only.  The  special  forte  of  the  Chinese  anywhere 
seems  to  be  the  utilization  of  all  sorts  of  unpromis- 
ing materials  for  making  tasty  dishes;  they  are 
great  also  on  sweets.  PERFUMED  ROAST  PORK — Is 
one  of  the  dainties  of  the  Ciiinese  cuisine.  The  pork 
is  roasted,  and  then  hung  in  the  smoke  of  various 
aromatic  herbs,  which  gives  it  a  delicious  flavor. 
It  is  cut  into  small  pieces  that  it  may  be  readily 
handled  with  the  chopsticks.  CHINA  IN  LONDON — 
Fascidious  people  will  be  relieved  to  hear  that 
neither  puppy -dog  nor  cat  figures  on  the  bill  of  fare. 
It  would  appear  that  a  Chinese  dinner  is  largely  an 
affair  of  samples.  First  come  liors  (fceuvrt— minute 
shreds  of  salad,  bits  of  sausage,  and  such  like  dain- 
ties. CHINESE  SOUPS— BIRDS-NEST  CLEAR  —  and 
Fishmau  ( ?  Fishmaw)  a  la  Tortue  (thick)  served 
together  in  tiny  slop  basins.  The  former  is  made 
from  the  nest  of  a  species  of  swallow  gathered  be- 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


fore  the  birds  have  soiled  them.  They  are  prepared 
by  soaking  in  water,  thoroughly  scoured  to  remove 
the  dirt,  and  cut  up  into  thin  strips — these  much  re- 
sembling geladne  both  in  appearance  and  taste. 
They  are  considered  a  great  delicacy  by  the  Chinese 
and  are  very  dear,  the  price  being  about  $60  a.  pound. 
Made  evidently  with  good  chicken  stock,  theBird's 
nest  Soup  was  decidedly  good.  The  Fishmaw  bore 
no  faint  resemblance  to  mock  turtle,  and  it,  too,  was 
palatable  enough.  PEKIN  SALMON'  BALLS— Made 
of  dried  salmon  pounded  with  rice,  fried  in  oil. 
PULMO — A  fish  dried.  SHAOSHING  HOT  WINE  or 
SAMSHC — This  slightly  alcoholic  distillation  from 
rice — the  Chinese  vin  dupays — is  somewhat  sweet, 
is  served  hot  from  the  kettle  in  little  tea-cups,  and 
to  the  uneducated  palate  is  simply  an  abomination. 
As  this  beverage  was  sent  round  at  two  intervals  of 
the  dinner,  we  tried  hard  at  the  second  sampling  to 
discover  something  attractive  about  it,  but  alto- 
gether failed.  A  fellow  diner,  after  pronouncing  it 
to  be  "beastly  stuff,"  thought  the  taste  for  it  might 
be  acquired.  But  we  fancy  life  is  too  short  to 
acquire  a  taste  for  Shaosing  Wine.  SHARKS'  FINS 
a  LA  PEKINOISE — is  a  toothsome  kind  of  curry  with 
rice.  The  fins  of  fishes  and  those  of  the  shark  in 
particular  are  largely  utilized  in  the  Chinese  cuisine. 
They  are  smoked,  pickled,  or  simply  sun-dried,  the 
bony  portion  being  removed.  The  cartilaginous 
tissue  is  cut  into  thin  strips,  and  either  stewed  with 
eggs  or  cooked  as  above.  CHINESE  CREPINETTES 
DE  PORC — Tasty  morsels  indeed  and  this  entree 
would  do  credit  to  any  chef.  Pork,  by  the  way,  is 
the  Chinaman's  favorite  meat.  CHINESE  SWEETS — 
Amongst  these,  fned  and  candied  potato  chips  and 
the  nuts  or  seed  of  the  Sacred  Lotus  "a  la  Helian- 
thus,"  whatever  that  may  mean.  These  nuts  are 
white  and  soft,  not  unlike  filberts  in  flavor.  BECH- 
DE-MEK — trepang,  or  sea-slug  (see  cut  page)  enters 
largely  into  the  composition  of  Chinese  dishes.  This 
uninviting-looking  creature  is  fished  from  the  deep 
sea  and  specially  prepared  for  Celestial  consump- 
tion. It  ranges  from  six  to  fifteen  inches  long,  is 
sometimes  covered  with  spicules  or  prickles,  and  is 
sometimes  quite  smooth  and  with  or  without  teats 
or  feet.  There  are  several  varieties,  and  the  finest 
realize  as  much  as  $500  per  ton  in  China  where  they 
are  regarded  as  a  prime  delicacy.  After  boiling, 
the  sea -slugs  are  cut  open,  gutted,  and  placed  in 
drying  sheds.  Thus  prepared  they  are  in  consistency 
and  appearance  not  unlike  indiarubber,  and  will 
keep  for  a  great  length  of  time.  Made  into  tiny- 
pies  or  cooked  with  truffles  and  served  withMadeira 
sauce  the  sea-slug  is  by  no  means  bad,  and  by  a 
stretch  —  a  long  stretch  —  of  the  imagination  one 
might  suppose  was  eating  turtle.  CHINESE  CHOP 
SOLY — a  savory  ragout,  known  as  chop  soly,  is  as 
much  the  national  dish  of  China  as  is  the/V>/  an  feu 
of  France  or  the  olla  podrida  of  Spain.  Its  main  • 
components  are  pork,  bacon,  chicken,  mushrooms,  < 
bamboo  shoots,  onions,  and  pepper.  These  arc  the 
characteristic  ingredients;  other  incidental  ones  are 


CHO 

duck,  beef,  perfumed  turnip,  salted  black  beans, 
sliced  yam,  peas,  and  string  beans.  No  doubt  a 
curious  and  wonderful  compound,  hut  one  that  may 
be  palatable  withal.  CHOP  STICKS — Before  each 
diner  is  placed  a  pair  of  ivory  metal -tipped  chop- 
sticks, and  for  those  who  cannot  manipulate  them 
the  knives  and  forks  of  civilization.  About  the 
table,  on  the  occasion  of  the  inaugural  luncheon, 
were  distributed  quaint  and  curious  saucers,  bowls, 
etc.,  containing  melon-seed,  comfits,  lotus-seeds, 
cubes  of  sugar-cane,  preserved  ginger,  cakes,  etc. 
CHINESE  PROVERBS— Ardent  disciples  of  Epicurus 
are  to  be  found  in  the  Flowery  Land  as  well  as  in 
the  West,  and  that  the  kitchen  is  not  undervalued 
as  a  ministrant  to  human  happiness  may  be  gathered 
from  such  Chinese  proverbs  as  "Who  eats  well, 
thinks  well, .sleeps  well,  is  well;"  "The  seat  of  the 
soul  is  the  pit  of  the  stomach;"  "No  saint  with  an 
empty  stomach." 

CHINESE  MUTTON-Cold  mutton  cut  in  pieces, 
stewed  with  butter,  onion,  chopped  lettuce,  green 
peas,  seasonings.  Boiled  rice  for  border;  meat  in 
the  center. 

CHIP  POTATOES— Potatoes  shaved  as  thin  as 
paper;  fried  dry  in  lard. 

CHIPPED  BEjiF-Dried  and  smoked  beef  shaved 
extremely  thin;  CHIPPED  BEEF  IN  C'KEAM-Shaved 
dried  beef  parboiled,  mixed  in  cream  sauce.  FRIZ- 
ZLED BEEK — Dried-beef  shavings  warmed  in  butter. 

CHIPOLATA  — A  garnish  of  Italian  origin. 
Consisting  of  small  round  sausages,  chestnuts, 
mushrooms,  pieces  of  bacon,  carrots  and  turnips  in 
a  brown  gra.w  with  sherry.  Served  with  various 
meats  designated  a  la  Cliipolata. 

CHITTERLINGS— The  intestines  of  the  pig  are 
prepared  in  France  as  follows:  Having  been  thor- 
oughly well  cleaned,  they  are  pickled  for  from  6  to 
12  hours  in  a  brine  flavored  with  thyme,  coriander 
and  bay  leaves;  taken  out,  and  the  pieces  of  meat 
which  adhere  to  them  are  removed,  cut  up  fine,  and, 
with  the  smaller  guts  also  cut  into  strips,  are  intro- 
duced into  a  larger  gut,  which  when  filled  is  tied  at 
both  ends.  The  whole  is  then  cooked,  great  care 
being  taken  to  prevent  the  skin  from  bursting.  They 
are  again  placed  in  brine  for  three  weeks,  after 
which  they  are  either  smoked  or  kept  in  vinegar. 
Chitterlings  are  either  broiled,  fried  or  stewed  to 
prepare  them  for  the  table. 

CHIVES — A  kind  of  green  onion-tops,  slender, 
pipe-like  and  deep  green;  used  in  soups  and  sauces. 

CHOCOLATE— Is  cocoa  paste  free  from  oil,  or 
nearly  so,  and  pressed  into  cakes.  Sweet  chocolate 
is  sugar  and  cocoa  pounded  together,  usually  fla- 
vored with  vanilla,  and  pressed.  ROYAL  CREAM 
CHOCOLATE — A  soft  kind  of  chocolate  in  cans;  a 
beverage.  CHOCOLATE  CAKES — Grated  chocolate, 
4oz. ;  pistachio  nuts,  4oz. ;  little  sugar,  vanilla,  clove 
and  cinnamon  powdered;  moistened  with  whites; 
baked  in  patty  pans;  decorated  with  cream,  almonds, 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


281 


CHO 

preserves.  CHOCOLATE  PunniNG-Like  pound  cake, 
with  chocolate  mixed  in;  i  Ib.  butter,  I  Ib.  sugar,  10 
eggs,  2  07..  unsweetened  chocolate,  14  oz.  flour; 
steamed;  chocolate  cream  for  sauce.  CHOCOLATE 
MERINGUE — A  chocolate  custard  baked;  the  \vhites 
used  to  frost  it  over;  eaten  cold.  CHOCOLATE JKLLY- 
A  substitute  for  jelly  for  layer  cakes;  chocolate, 
sugar  and  thick  cream  boiled;  used  cold.  COURONNE 
AU  CHOCOLAT — A  crown  or  border  mould  of  choco- 
late Bavarian,  the  interior  filled  with  whipped  cream, 
garnished  with  crystalized  fruits.  SOUFFLE  AU 
CHOCOLAT— Chocolate,  sugar,  flour,  cream  and  yolks 
beaten  together;  the  whipped  whites  added;  baked 
in  small  cases;  to  be  served  immediately.  CHOCO- 
LATE SOUFFLE  PUDDING—  Specialty  of  a  hotel  chef 
in  Germany.  Made  of  4  oz.  each  flour  and  sugar, 
2  oz.  each  butter  and  chocolate,  y2  pint  milk  (a  cup); 
all  made  into  a  paste  over  the  fire;  cooked;  vanilla 
added,  and  4  yolks;  mixture  beaten  10  minutes; 
whites  whipped  stiff  added  last;  baked;  served  soon 
as  done.  CHOCOLATE  TRANSPARENT  IciNG-Choco- 
late  melted  by  heat  in  a  little  syrup  and  well  worked 
together;  boiling  syrup  added;  used  hot.  CHOCO- 
LATE [CANDY]  CREAMS— Made  of  fondant  sugar 
cast  in  starch  moulds,  then  dipped  in  melted  choco- 
late and  cooled  on  glazed  paper;  glazed  or  varnished 
with  an  alcoholic  solution  of  gum  benzoin.  CHOCO- 
COLATE  WHIP — A  variety  of  whipped  cream  to 
serve  in  cups,  made  of  i  qt.  rich  cream,  i  oz.  un- 
sweetened chocolate,  8  oz.  sugar;  scalded  to  boiling 
point;  cooled;  4  whites  added;  whipped,  and  cream 
and  froth  served  cold.  CHOCOLATE  MACAROONS — 
Best  made  of  granulated  sugar,  i  Ib.  to  4  whites, 
worked  with  a  paddle  as  for  icing;  3  oz.  grated  un- 
sweetened chocolate  stirred  in;  dropped  on  paper; 
slack  baked.  CHOCOLATE  MERINGUES — Same  as 
macaroons  baked  on  wetted  paper  on  boards;  no 
bottom  crust;  two  together  like  eggs.  CHOCOLATE 
PIPE  ICING — Chocolate  melted  by  heat  only  poured 
into  white  icing;  used  to  decorate  cakes  on  the  plain 
surface.  CHOCOLATE  A  LA  VOLTAIRE — This  bever- 
age was  first  invented  by  Voltaire,  who  constantly 
for  his  breakfast  partook  of  half  cafe  an  lait  and 
half  chocolate,  which  were  served  at  the  same  time 
in  separate  vessels  in  a  boiling  state,  and  poured 
from  each  slowly  about  18  inches  in  elevation  from 
the  cup,  being  thus  rendered  extremely  light  and 
digestible.  BAVAROIS  AU  CHOCOLAT — See  cremes. 
CHOCOLATE  ICE  CREAM— Dissolved  chocolate  in  hot 
milk  added  to  sweetened  cream;  frozen.  WHITE 
CHOCOLATE  ICE  CREAM  —  Roasted  cocoa  beans 
bruised  and  steeped  in  hot  milk,  which  is  then  xised 
to  flavor  the  cream  or  custard  to  be  frozen.  CHOCO- 
LATE WITH  WHIPPED  CREAM — "The  refreshments 
here,  as  in  all  Berlin  cafes,  aie  most  varied,  a  favorite 
consom motion  being  milk-coffee  iced,  with  whipped 
cream  on  the  top.  Chocolate  is  served  also  with  a 
thick  top  of  whipped  cream,  and  a  basket  of  pastry 
is  always  placed  on  the  table  with  the  cup." 

CHOPS — All  the  slices  of  mutton  that  can  be  cut 
on  both  sides  of  the  spine  bone  from  the  neck  to  the 


OHO 

hip.  The  first  choice  are  the  rib  chops,  the  shortened 
ribs  giving  an  advantageous  shape;  the  loin  chops 
are  even  better  eating;  they  are  cut  from  the  saddle 
of  mutton.  ENGLISH  MUTTON  CHOPS  —  Double 
thickness;  the  meat  of  two  with  but  one  bone. 
BARNSLEY  CHOPS — Restaurant  specialty.  A  sample 
sent  to  an  editor  who  had  heard  of  them  weighing 
i^  Ibs.  "It  is  usual  to  boil  them  5  minutes  before 
placing  them  on  the  grill,  as,  owing  to  their  thick- 
ness, they  would  otherwise  be  black  outside  before 
being  cooked  in  the  middle.  The  plan  is  always  to 
have  some  chops  ready-boiled,  so  that  they  may  be 
grilled  off  as  ordered,  and  by  this  means  they  are 
dished  as  soon  as  an  ordinary  chop — by  the  time  the 
tea  is  made,  or  the  chip  pototoes  ready  for  serving. 
Although  half-cooked,  perhaps,  the  day  before 
grilling,  a  Barnsley  chop  is  still  fresh  cooked,  has 
more  gravy  in  it  than  the  ordinary  mutton  chop,  and 
is  more  satisfying  for  a  hungry  customer." 

CHOP  HOUSES— English  chop  houses  are  grow- 
ing in  favor  in  New  York.  In  this  case  it  is  not  due 
to  Anglomania,  but  to  the  solid  comforts  that  can  be 
enjoyed  at  the  regulation  chop  houses.  In  a  certain 
locality  there  are  five  of  these  little  hostelries  that 
do  an  immense  business  all  day  long,  and  are  open 
most  of  the  night.  They  do  not  serve  oysters  or 
pastry  of  any  sort.  They  sell  chops,  Welsh  rare- 
bits, steaks,  egg  on  toast,  and  ales  and  wines.  The 
dishes  are  cooked  with  uncommon  skill,  and  every- 
thing is  served  with  the  utmost  neatness. 

CHOUX  (Fr.)— Cabbage. 

CHOUX  DE  BRUXELLES  (Fr.)— Brussells 
sprouts. 

CHOUXFLEURS  (Fr.)— Cauliflower. 

CHOUX  PASTE— The  same  paste  of  which  the 
familiar  Boston  cream  puffs  are  made;  it  is  called 
pate  a  cfioux  in  French,  is  used  in  a  few  forms  about 
meats  and  in  soups,  and  varied  by  having  a  slight 
addition  of  sugar  and  vanilla  it  forms  two  or  three 
varieties  of  eclairs.  (See  cream  puffs.) 

CHOW-CHOW— Mixed  pickles  thickened  with 
scalded  mustard;  can  be  bought  cheapest  by  the  keg 
for  hotel  use,  or  made  cheaply  where  there  are  plenty 
of  vegetables. 

CHOWDER— Fish  chowder  is  an  ancient  dish 
which  has  undergone  alleged  improvements.  It  is, 
originally,  a  sailors'  stew,  consisting  only  of  fat  salt 
pork,  onions,  potatoes,  crackers,  water,  salt  and  pep- 
per; stewed  in  a  covered  pot. 

AN   OLD   RECIPE,    DATED    1834. 

To  make  a  good  chowder  and  have  it  quite  nice, 
Dispense  with  sweet  marjoram  parsley  and  spice; 
Mace,  pepper  and  salt  are  now  wanted  alone. 
To  make  the  stew  eat  well  and  stick  to  the  bone, 
Some  pork  is  sliced  thin  and  put  into  the  pot; 
Some  say  you  must  turn  it,  some  sav  vou  must  not; 
And  when  it  is  brown,  take  it  out  of  the  fat, 
And  add  it  again  when  vou  add  this  and  that. 
A  layer  of  potatoes,  sliced  quarter  inch  thick. 
Should  be  placed  in  the  bottom  to  make  it  eat  slick; 
A  layer  of  onions  now  over  this  place, 
Then  season  with  pepper  and  salt  and  some  mace. 


282 


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CHR 

Split  open  your  crackers  and  give  them  a  soak. 
In  eating  you'll  find  this  the  cream  of  the  joke. 
On  top  of  all  this,  now  comply  with  my  wish, 
And  put,  in  large  chunks,  all  your  pieces  of  fish; 
Then  put  on  the  pieces  of  pork  you  have  fried — 
I  mean  those  from  which  all  the  fat  has  been  tried. 
In  seasoning  I  pray  you,  don't  spare  the  cayenne; 
'Tis  this  makes  it  fit  to  be  eaten  by  men. 
After  adding  these  things  in  their  reg'lar  rotation, 
You'll  have  a  dish  fit  for  the  best  of  the  nation. 
— JVote-Fish -broth  and  milk  are  to  be  added.    CON- 
GRESS CHOWDER — "Every  spring  these  parties  of 
Congressmen  and  officials  used  to  go  down  the  Po- 
tomac on  the  old  steamer  Salem  to  the  fishing  grounds 
and  enjoy  freshly  caught  shad,  opened,   nailed  to 
oaken  boards,  and  cooked  before  large  wood  fires. 
On  one  of  these  occasions  Mr.  Webster  had  obtained 
from  Boston  some  rock  cod,  crackers  and  salt  pork, 
and  he  made  a  chowder.    He  had  a  large  kettle,  and 
having  fried  his  scraps,  he  deposited  the  successive 
layers  of  fish,  crackers  and  potatoes  and  onions  over 
and  over  until  there  was  no  more  room.   Then  pour- 
ing in  a  half  gallon  of  milk  he  rubbed  his  hands,  ex- 
claiming:    "Now  for  the  fire.    As  Mrs.  Macbeth 
said :     '  If  'tis  to  be  done  when  'tis  done,  then  'tis 
well  'twere  done  quickly.'  "     I  quote  from  memory, 
but  I  shall  never  forget  his  joyous  expression  of 
countenance  and  the  merry  twinkle  of  his  deep-set, 
burning  black  eyes.    The  chowder  was  a  success, 
and  so  was  a  medicinal  preparation  of  Santa  Cruz 
rum,  brandy,  a  dash  of  arrack,  loaf  sugar,  lemons 
and    strong    iced    tea.      No   one  who  ever  drank 
'  Marshfield  Punch  '  forgot  its  seductive  excellence, 
but  some  found  to  their  sorrow  that  it  had  a  fearful 
kick."    CHOWDER  SOUP — A  fish  soup  made  thinner 
than  the  real  chowder,  which  is  a  thick  stew,  is 
served  on  fish  days  in  many  hotels.   (See  clams.) 

CHRISTMAS  PUDDING— Boiled  plum  pud- 
ding, made  of  :  Ib.  each  bread-crumbs,  suet,  rai- 
sins, currants,  sugar;  %  Ib.  each  citron  and  almonds; 
I  lemon,  i  orange,  rind  and  juice;  J^  pint  each 
brandy  and  sherry;  i  nutmeg,  little  salt,  8  eggs, 
cream  enough  to  moisten.  Mixed  up  a  day  before 
cooking;  put  in  bag  or  mould  and  boiled  10  hours. 
Warm  brandy  poured  over,  set  on  fire  and  sent  so 
to  table  with  hard  sauce. 

CHUCK  RIBS— Of  beef,  the  coarser  rib  meat 
nearest  the  neck.  CHUCK  STEAKS— Shoulder  steaks. 

CHUMP — An  inferior  cut  of  beef;  the  cut  back 
of  the  hip  bone. 

CHUM — A  sort  of  gizzard  found  in  the  white- 
fish  of  the  great  lakes,  which  feeds  on  small  shell- 
fish; the  chums  are  reserved  by  the  salters  and 
esteemed  a  delicacy. 

CHUTNEY— An  East  Indian  sweet  pickle;  can 
be  purchased  at  the  fancy  grocery  stores.  (See 
Bengal,  Indian?)  "And  mango  chutney,  another 
and  characteristically  Singhalese  condiment,  among 
the  ingredients  of  which  I  think  are  fresh-grated 
cocoanut  and  chillies  carefully  brayed  together  in  a 
mortar.  This  chutney  is  of  a  rich  roseate  hue;  and 
after  eating  it  with  his  prawn  curry,  the  epicure 
feels  like  the  Grand  Turk." 


CIX 

CIDER — The  pure,  unsophisticated  juice  of  the 
apple,  fermented  and  matured  to  a  certain  degree. 
Where  the  highest  quality  is  desired,  as  for  cham- 
pagne cider,  the  fruit  is  crushed  between  granite 
rollers  to  avoid  contact  with  metal  at  anv  stage, 
and  the  juice  extracted  in  a  wooden  press.  The 
cider  is,  of  course,  not  fit  for  immediate  consump- 
tion, but  requires  a  period  varying  from  a  few 
months  to  even  a  year  or  two  to  mature.  The  dif- 
ference as  to  appearance  and  flavor  between  the 
crude  apple-juice  in  the  first  stages  of  its  fermenta- 
tion and  the  thoroughly  ripened  liquor,  is  almost 
marvellous.  Taken  from  the  wood,  the  well-ma- 
tured cider,  which  has  been  stored  for  a  period  of 
two  years  or  more,  loses  every  trace  of  rawness  and 
develops  a  full  fine  dry  flavor,  not  unlike  some  of 
the  best  Continental  light  wines.  To  judge  of  a 
good  sample  of  cider,  it  should  have  the  bright  and 
clear  appearance  of  a  first-class  sauterne,  and  show 
no  tendency,  with  climatic  changes,  to  become 
cloudy  or  viscous.  It  approaches  wine  in  many 
respects,  and  indeed  bears  favorable  comparison 
with  any  cheap  champagne  at  one-fourth  its  price. 
CIDER  FOR  COOKING — Good  cider  is  the  proper 
substitute  for  wine  in  all  cases  where  that  article  is 
called  for  in  culinary  operations;  good  cider,  indeed, 
is  far  better  for  cooking  fish,  soups,  game,  hams, 
and  sauces,  than  the  heavily  adulterated  wines 
which  now  flood  the  market.  IMITATION"  CIDER — 
Is  manufactured  in  enormous  quantities  for  the  pur- 
pose of  a  cheap  drink  to  retail;  the  least  objection- 
able of  it  is  made  from  dried  apples.  It  costs  the 
retailers  less  than  i  cent  a  glass.  (See  Burr-  Oak.) 

CIGARETTES  OF  MEAT— French  caterers' 
specialty.  Finely  minced  chicken,  or  any  other 
kind  of  meat,  seasoned  with  aromatic  salt,  rolled  up 
in  paste,  baked  light  color;  long,  slender. 

CINNAMON  AND  CASSIA— The  government 
chemists,  investigating  the  adulterations  of  food, 
say:  "These  spices  are  the  barks  of  several  species 
of  the  genus  cinnamoniim,  the  true  cinnamon  being 
a  native  of  Ceylon,  where  it  is  largely  cultivated, 
and  the  cassias  being  derived  from  several  other 
species  growing  in  China,  India  and  the  East 
Indies.  Cinnamon  as  it  reaches  the  market  is  very 
thin,  the  outer  and  inner  coats  of  the  bark  having 
been  removed.  Cassia,  on  the  other  hand,  is  thick, 
as  it  consists  of  the  entire  bark,  and  can  be  distin- 
guished by  its  retaining  its  natural  outer  surface. 
Cinnamon  is  by  far  more  valuable  than  the  cassia, 
as  there  is  a  smaller  supply  and  intrinsically  it  con- 
tains a  much  greater  proportion  of  volatile  oil,  and 
that  of  higher  and  more  delicate  aroma.  In  con- 
sequence cassia  is  largely  substituted  for  cinnamon, 
and,  in  fact,  not  a  particle  of  ground  cinnamon  can 
be  found  in  the  market  It  can  be  found  in  the 
whole  condition  in  good  quality  only  in  drug  stores. 
Cassia  exists  in  many  forms  and  qualities,  and  sells 
at  wholesale  at  from  7  to  40  cents  a  pound.  That 
known  as  Saigon  is  the  best  and  that  exported  from 
Batavia  the  poorest.  Cassia  buds  also  hold  a  small 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


283 


CIS 

place  in  the  market  The  detection  of  the  substitu- 
tion of  cassia  for  cinnamon,  since  the  barks  are  of 
trees  of  the  same  species,  is  more  difficult  than  is 
usually  the  case  and  may  prove  troublesome  to  a 
novice.  The  presence  of  more  woody  fiber  in  the 
latter  with  the  aid  of  chemical  analysis  serves,  how- 
ever, as  a  reliable  distinction.  In  the  samples  which 
have  come  into  our  hands  not  a  particle  of  material 
labeled  ground  cinnamon  proved  to  be  anything 
other  than  cassia.  The  spice  millers  appeared; 
however,  to  be  satisfied  to  stop  at  this  point  and  in 
only  one  case  was  there  addition  of  cheap  stuff  to 
the  cassia.  When  added  there  is  no  difficulty  in 
detecting  it  as  has  been  done  here  and  in  Canada> 
where  peas,  starch,  ground  shells  and  crackers  have 
been  found  in  powder  labeled  both  cassia  and 
cinnamon.  The  barks  can,  in  most  cases,  and 
especially  the  cinnamon,  be  used  nearly  as  well  .in 
the  whole  condition,  and  should  at  least  be  so  pur- 
chased and  then  ground.  A  slight  acquaintance 
with  the  appearance  of  the  different  qualities  will 
teach  one  the  proper  selection  to  make." 

CISCO— A  small  fish,  a  fresh-water  herring 
abundant  in  the  lakes  of  the  northwest.  The  flesh 
is  white,  parts  in  fillets  from  the  spine  like  the  flesh 
of  the  brook  trout,  and  is  as  free  from  small  bones. 

CITRON  (Fr.)— Lemon. 

CITRON — A  large  and  coarse  fruit  of  the  lemon 
family,  produced  in  warm  latitudes;  used  only  in 
the  form  of  candied  citron  peel.  This  is  boiled  in 
water  to  extract  the  bitterness;  then  boiled  in  syrup 
and  dried. 

CITRON  MELON— A  small  green  melon  of  the 
gardens,  the  "apple-pie  melon,"  used  for  cooking 
and  for  preserving,  and  is  boiled  in  flavored  syrup 
and  dried  in  imitation  of  the  West  India  peel. 

CITRON  CAKE— One  pound  butter,  i  pound 
sugar,  twelve  eggs,  i  nutmeg  grated,  3  tablespoons 
rose-water,  I  pound  flour,  i  pound  citron  thinly 
sliced.  At  least  20  different  variations  are  made 
with  citron,  in  the  different  cake  mixtures;  either  in 
shreds  mixed,  or  scattered  over  the  surface  of  the 
icing,  or  laid  on  top  of  cakes  before  baking;  mixed 
with  other  fruit  for  plum  cakes  or  puddings,  and  in 
compound  ice  creams. 

CITRIC  ACID— One  of  the  acids  used  in  effer- 
vescing powders,  in  making  lemonade  without 
lemons;  and  in  small  quantities  it  is  used  in  making 
acid  candies  and  boiling  sugar. 

CIVET  (Fr.)— A  game  stew.  CIVET  OK  VEN- 
ISON— Pieces  cut  size  of  an  egg,  lightly  fried  with 
cubes  of  salt  pork;  flour  added,  claret  and  broth; 
stewed;  small  onions  and  mushrooms  to  finish. 
CIVET  DE  CHEVKEUIL  —  Same  as  the  foregoing. 
CIVET  DE  LIEVRE — Stewed  hare;  in  England  called 
jugged  hare,  and  after  the  first  frying  with  salt  pork 
the  cooking  is  finished  in  a  covered  jar  in  the  oven 
with  port  wine  and  broth.  CIVET  DE  LAFIN — Civet 


CLA 

of  rabbit,  or  rabbit  stewed  with  wine,  mushrooms, 
onions;  salt  pork  and  herbs. 

CLAMS  — The  late  Sam  Ward  could  probably 
have  named  a  dozen  different  ways  of  cooking  the 
delicious  bivalve  —  for  a  clam  is  a  bivalve — and 
would  have  named  Chateau  Yquem  as  the  wine  to 
take  with  clams.  The  most  esteemed  kind  in  New 
York  is  the  "Little  Neck"  clam  (so  called  from  a 
neck  of  land  on  Long  Island  Sound,  where  they 
abound),  a  small  round  clam  of  a  charming  flesh 
color.  It  is  served  on  the  half-shell,  raw,  as  the  first 
course  in  dinners  of  the  highest  order.  It  is  eaten 
off  the  half -shell  at  every  corner  along  the  wharves 
of  New  York.  There  are  "soft-shell"  clams,  too, 
and  there  are  "razor-back  clams,"  the  secrets  of  the 
cooking  whereof  are  known  unto  the  "Ichthyophag- 
ous Club."  "Clam  chowder"  would  tickle  the  pal- 
ate of  a  London  alderman,  and  in  the  proper  con- 
fection thereof  the  great  Daniel  Webster  excelled. 
"Clam  bakes"  are  an  occasion  of  much  festivity  on 
the  New  England  coast;  but  Rhode  Island  has  a 
proud  pre-eminence  for  these  feasts.  The  large 
kind  called  quahogs  are  only  part  eatable;  that  part, 
which  looks  like  a  string,  is  used  mostly  in  soups 
and  chowder,  but  is  fried  as  well.  SOFT-SHELL 
CLAMS — A  large  kind  having  a  brittle  crumbly  shell, 
not  soft  and  eatable  like  a  soft  crab's;  they  are  good 
for  fries  and  broils.  FRIED  CLAMS— The  same 
ways  as  fried  oysters.  STEWED  CLAMS — Same  as 
oysters.  SCALLOPED  CLAMS  —  They  are  usually 
served  in  their  shells,  which  are  of  a  good  shapafor 
the  purpose;  scalded  first,  they  are  taken  up,  and  a 
thick  white  sauce  is  made  of  their  liquor;  the  clams 
put  back  in  it,  spoonfuls  in  shells  breaded  over  the 
top,  and  browned  in  the  oven.  —  Roasted  in  the 
shells,  and  steamed,  they  are  treated  and  served  as 
oysters.  CLAM  CHOWDER— The  same  thing  with 
clams  as  fish  chowder.  TUNNISON  CLAM  CHOWDER- 
A  seaside  hotel-keeper's  specialty;  a  chowder  con- 
gaining  tomatoes  and  herbs,  such  as  thyme,  marjo- 
ram and  parsley  in  addition  to  the  regular  ingre- 
dients. "Sam  Ward"  used  to  say:  "Don't  put  salt 
pork  in  your  clam  chowder."  CONEY  ISLAND  CLAM 
CHOWDER — Like  the  foregoing;  a  thick  soup  or  thin 
stew  containing  tomatoes,  clams,  onions,  potatoes, 
bay  leaf,  herbs,  etc.,  started  by  frying  the  main  in- 
gredients together  until  half-cooked,  then  adding 
broth  and  little  wine.  BOSTON  CLAM  CHOWDER — 
A- white,  thick  soup  with  potatoes,  clams,  etc. ;  no 
tomatoes.  BAKED  CHOWDER — Sort  of  sea-pie;  the 
original  pork,  onions,  potatoes,  clams,  crackers, 
water,  or  milk,  and  seasonings  without  much  liquor; 
baked  brown  on  top.  CANNED  CHOWDER — It  is  put 
up  in  cans;  the  plain  variety  of  chowder,  and  only 
needs  to  have  crackers  and  more  liquor  added,  or  to- 
mato soup  added.  CLAM  FRITTERS — (/)-The  best 
are  made  of  chopped  clams  mixed  in  egg  batter 
dropped  in  hot  lard  by  spoonfuls;  served  with  a. cream 
sauce.  (a)-CIams  whole,  parboiled,  dipped  in  batter 
and  fried.  CLAM  CROQUETTES  —  Parboiled  and 
minced  clams,  with  onions,  mace,  pepper,  in  a  thick 


384 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


CLA 

sauce  over  the  fire;  thickened  with  yolks;  cooled; 
pieces  roiled,  breaded,  fried.  CLAM  SOUPS — Same 
as  oysters. 

CLARET  SAUCE— For  puddings;  made  with  % 
pint  claret,  2  eggs,  2  oz.  sugar,  lemon  rind,  cinna- 
mon; whisked  over  the  fire  till  it  thickens;  not 
boiled. 

CLEAR  SOUPS— These  are,  or  should  be,  meat- 
essences  clarified  and  strained  from  all  solid  par- 
ticles and  having  morsels  of  meat,  vegetables  or 
compounds  in  ornamental  shapes  added.  They  are 
named  in  detail  under  their  French  name.  (See  con- 
sommes.) 

CLOVES— The  flower  buds  of  the  clove  tree, 
carefully  picked  and  dried,  constitute  the  spice 
known  by  that  name.  Their  valuable  properties  are 
due  to  the  volatile  oil,  which  they  contain,  the  best 
having  as  much  as  10  per  cent.  The  removal  of  this 
oil  is  so  very  easy  that  it  is  the  commonest  method 
of  deception  to  do  so  before  grinding  the  spice  and 
to  then  dispose  of  it  as  pure.  The  addition  of  the 
cheaper  clove  stems  is  also  practiced,  as  they  cost 
but  6  cents  when  the  buds  cost  27.  Pimento  is 
sometimes  substituted  in  part  or  entirely,  as  it  has  a 
clove-like  flavor,  but  only  4  or  5  per  cent,  of  volatile 
oil.  It  is  worth  less  than  one-fifth  the  price  of  cloves- 
Cloves  should,  if  possible,  be  always  purchased 
•whole,  as  they  deteriorate  less  readily  in  that  form. 

CLOVE  SYRUP— For  flavoring  apple  pies  and 
punches;  made  of  2  oz.  crushed  cloves,  steeped  in 
ijis  pts.  water  3  days;  water  strained  off,  and  boiled 
with  i  Ib.  sugar. 

COBOURG  PUDDING— Hotel  specialty.  Made 
of  i  Ib.  sifted,  white,  stale  bread  crumbs,  i  Ib.  but- 
ter, i  Ib.  sugar,  8  eggs;  mixed  up  like  pound  cake, 
the  crumbs  instead  of  flour;  steamed  in  a  mould  2 
hours;  for  sauce  currant  jelly,  diluted  with  wine  hot. 

COCOA — It  is  certain  that  the  Spanish  discoverers 
Pizafro  and  Cortes  learned  its  use  in  the  Court  of 
Montezuma,  and  they  doubtless  brought  a  knowl- 
edge of  this  nutritious  nut  into  Europe.  Cocoa  (or 
more  properly,  ca-cao)  plant  has  great  wax-like 
leaves  and  resembles  a  small  magnolia  tree.  Upon 
its  trunk  and  large  limbs  thereappear  semi-annuaily 
a  large  number  of  wart-like  protuberances,  about  as 
large  as  the  smallest  pineapple.  At  first  they  are 
green,  but  when  they  get  red  the  natives  pick  them 
off,  crush  them  in  a  rude  machine,  and  take  from 
each  a  handful  of  seeds  about  the  size  and  shape  of 
a  Lima  bean.  This  is  the  cocoa.  When  the  beans 
are  thoroughly  dried  in  the  sun,  they  are  shipped  to 
the  market  in  gunny  sacks,  where  the  chocolate 
manufacturer  gets  hold  of  them.  The  first  operation 
consists  of  carefully  picking  and  sorting  the  beans, 
the  next  in  roasting  them,  after  which  they  are 
crushed  and  winnowed,  which  reduces  them  to  the 
familiar  form  of  cocoa  nibs.  After  the  nibs  have 
been  carefully  ground  through  warm  mills,  a  por- 
tion of  the  cocoa-butter  is  extracted.  This  is  valu- 


COC 

able  for  its  medicinal  qualities.  When  this  first  oily 
extract  is  removed,  the  grinding  of  the  cocoa  residue 
proceeds  until  it  has  a  creamy  consistency,  which, 
when  cold,  assumes  the  familiar  form  of  pure  cocoa. 
This,  however,  is  too  rich  in  fatty  matter  for  most 
stomachs,  and  in  order  to  prepare  the  well-known 
cocoa  extract,  the  cocoa  is  placed  under  enormous 
pressure — 1,200  Ibs.  to  the  square  inch.  This  ex- 
presses all  the  remaining  cocoa-butter.  The  dry 
mass  is  then  taken  out,  ground,  reground,  and  sifted 
through  selves.  This  reduces  the  cocoa  to  a  beauti- 
fully fine  impalpable  powder  that  constitutes  the 
well-known  "Cocoa  Extract,"  which  contains  all 
the  virtues  and  aroma  of  the  original  nut  without 
its  oleaginous  drawbacks. 

COCOAXUT— The  fruit  of  the  cocoa- palm. 
Since  the  introduction  of  the  desiccated  cocoanut  the 
uses  have  increased  to  an  astonishing  degree. 
COCOANUT  PIE  OR  PUDDING — Fresh  grated  cocoa- 
nut,  butter,  sugar,  4  oz.  of  each,  4  whites,  J£  glass 
brandy,  I  teaspoon  orange-water;  in  a  pastry  crust. 
COCOANUT  GINGERBREAD — Made  of  i  cup  molasses, 
^  cup  sugar,  %  cup  butter,  2^  cups  flour.  4  oz.  de- 
siccated cocoanut,  3  teaspoons  powder,  ginger; 
baked  in  cake  pans.  COCOANUT  MACAROONS — (/)- 
Desiccated  cocoanut,  8  oz. ;  sugar,  2  oz.;  2  whites 
stirred  together;  small  drops  on  paper;  light  baked. 
(2)— Same  way  and  weights  as  chocolate  macaroonsj 
cocoanut  for  chocolate.  COCOANUT  TAPIOCA  PUD- 
DING— Tapioca,  S  oz. ;  milk,  i  qt. ;  sugar,  4  oz. ;  eggs, 
6;  cocoanut,  4  oz. ;  baked.  COCOANUT  SPONGE 
CAKES — Small  sponge  cakes  the  usual  way  with 
little  less  flour  and  cocoanut  in  its  place.  COCOANUT 
SMALL-CAKES — Three  cups  sugar;  i  cup  each  but- 
ter, milk,  cocoanut;  2  eggs;  2  spoons  powder;  flour 
to  make  dough  to  roll  out;  sugar  on  top  before  bak- 
ing. COCOANUT  MADELEINES — Small  pound  cakes 
dipped  in  diluted  jam  and  rolled  in  grated  cocoanut. 
COCOANUT  GENOISES— Jelly  cake  with  jelly  on  top 
and  cocoanut  upon  that.  COCOANUT  JELLY- ROLL — 
Outside  of  roll  wetted  with  diluted  jelly,  roiled  in 
cocoanut  mixed  with  sugar.  IMPERIAL  COCOANUT  - 
CAKE — Like  Savoy  cake  with  cocoanut;  made  of 
i  Ib.  each  sugar  and  cocoanut;  yolks  to  make  stiff 
paste;  9  whites,  whipped  firm,  stirred  in  alternately 
with  8  oz.  flour;  baked  in  long  tins;  sugar  over. 
COCOANUT  ICE  CREAM — Desiccated  or  fresh,  stirred 
into  the  custard  while  hot,  then  frozen;  best  is  fresh, 
grated  in  pure  cream;  not  boiled.  It  is  mixed  also 
in  banana  ice-cream,  in  corn-starch  pudding,  in 
blanc  mange,  in  orange  pies,  etc.,  etc. 

COCOAXUT  OIL  — Used  to  adulterate  butter 
and  lard.  The  first  attempts  to  use  it  so  failed  on 
account  of  its  strong  flavor;  that  is  now  removed 
by  injecting  sprays  of  steam  in  the  oil  for  severaj 
hours,  which  results  in  deodorizing  it. 

COCOAXUT  SHELLS— Used  largely  in  the 
adulteration  of  ground  pepper  and  other  spices.  The 
government  analysts  cite  an  instance  of  a  Xew  York 
firm  having  in  a  short  time  used  and  put  upon  the 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


285 


coc 

market  more  than  5,000  Ibs.  of  cocoarrjt  shells  in 
their  spices. 

COCOTTE — A  cup  or  deep  dish  for  cooking  eggs 
in.  EGGS  A  LA  COCOTTE — Eggs  in  buttered  cocotlf- 
cups  with  a  spoonful  of  cream  on  top,  same  as 
shirred  eggs  except  that  they  are  steamed  instead  of 
baked. 

COCHINEAL — Used  for  coloring;  is  an  insect 
which  lives  upon  the  stems  of  a  plant  in  Mexico. 

COCHON  (Fr.)— Pig-  COCHON  DE  LAIT — Suck- 
ing pig.  COCHON  DE  LAIT  A  LA  CHIPOLATA — Suck- 
ing pig  stuffed  with  chestnuts  and  sausage,  served 
with  a  Chipolata  garnish.  COCHON  DE  LAIT  EN 
GALANTINE — A  sucking  pig  boned,  stuffed,  braised, 
served  hot.  PATE  FROID  DE  COCHON  DE  LAIT— A 
cold  raised  pie  of  the  English  pork -pie  order,  made 
with  sucking  pig. 

COCKIE-LEEKIE  SOUP-See  Scottish  Cookery. 

COCKLES — A  small  sort  of  scallops;  used  as  a 
substitute  for  oysters  and  shrimps  in  fish  sauces; 
eaten  raw  with  vinegar  and  plainly  boiled  in  salt 
water.  COCKLE  PATTIES— Same  as  oysters  and 
clams.  "Cockles,  which  come  in  season  this  month, 
are  excellent  pickled  or  in  patties.  We  are  told  that 
from  Morecambe  Bay  alone,  £20,000  worth  of  these 
delicious  little  shell-fish  are  taken  every  year." 

COCKSCOMBS  —  Frequently  mentioned  and 
commended  for  use  in  foreign  recipes,  and  one  of 
the  principal  reliances  for  ornamental  finishes  to 
elaborate  hot  dishes;  may  be  obtained  in  bottles  and 
cans  at  the  fancy  grocery  stores.  They  are  the 
combs  and  wattles  of  yearling  chickens,  blanched 
peeled  and  stewed. 

COD — Is  in  season  every  month  in  the  year;  is  at 
its  best  in  mid-winter.  The  head  and  shoulders  are 
considered  the  best  parts  and  are  generally  boiled ; 
the  thinner  parts  being  sliced  and  fried.  CODFISH 
STEWED  WITH  ONIONS — Slices  in  butter-sauce  with 
chopped  onions.  COD  A  L'INDIENNE — Slices  of  cod 
baked  with  butter  and  seasonings  and  a  curry  sauce 
poured  over,  made  of  2  onions,  i  carrot  and  I  apple, 
sliced  and  fried  in  butter;  flour,  stock,  anchovy  and 
curry  added;  parsley  and  lemon  garnish.  CURRIED 
COD — Slices  of  cod  fried  with  onions,  gravy  added, 
curry  powder,  cayenne,  butter,  cream,  flour,  salt.  CA- 
BILLAUD  A  LA  HOLLANDAISE — The  thick  part  boiled, 
served  with  Hollandaise  sauce.  CABILLAUD  RE- 
CREPI,  SAUCE  AUX  HUITRES —Crimped  cod,  boiled, 
oyster  sauce.  CABILLAUD  FAKCI  AU  FOUR — Cod 
stuffed  and  baked.  CABILLAUD  A  LA  PORTUGAISE — 
Codfish  steaks  floured  and  fried;  tomato  sauce  fla- 
vored with  anchovy.  CABILLAUD  GRILLE  A  LA 
CoLBERT-Steaks  broiled,  spread  with  maitred' hotel 
butter;  potato  balls  around.  CABILLAUD  A  LA 
CREME — Boiled  cod  picked  apart  in  flakes,  in  cream 
sauce,  dredged  with  parsley  dust,  or  a  la  creme  au 
gratin,  covered  with  bread-crumbs  and  browned. 
CODFISH  BAKED  A  LA  XEW  BEDFORD — The  fish 
split  and  laid  open,  marinaded  in  oil  and  seasonings, 


COF 

drained,  buttered,  bread -crumbed,  baked;  wine  or 
cider  and  oyster  liquor  in  the  pan  for  sauce.  COD- 
FISH BOILED,  FLEMISH  SAUCE — Fresh  cod  boiled 
in  salted  water  acidulated  with  vinegar,  drained, 
dished  up  on  a  folded  napkin  surrounded  with  pars- 
ley leaves;  sauce  separate  made  of  butter-sauce 
yellow  with  mustard  and  egg  yoiks.  COD  A  LA 
PROVENCALE — Pieces  of  cold  fish  mingled  with  shal- 
lots, chives,  oil,  pepper,  salt,  lemon  peel,  nutmeg; 
baked,  sprinkled  with  lemon  juice.  CODFISH  CRO- 
QUETTES— Cold  fish  and  oysters  chopped  together, 
bread-crumbs,  cream,  pepper,  salt;  made  up  in  balls, 
breaded  and  fried.  DRIED  COD — When  the  cod  is 
dried  on  the  downs  it  is  called  dun-fish,  from  the 
Gaelic  root  duin,  a  hill.  If  dried  on  the  rocks,  it 
becomes  rock-cod,  or  the  klipp-fish  of  the  Nor- 
wegians. Among  these  the  cod  is  called  torsk—  in 
English  tusk,  from  the  Gothic  duerren,  to  dry.  The 
well-known  Aberdeen  fish,  or  French  laberdan,  is 
from  the  Gaelic  abar,  the  mouth,  and  dan,  a  river — 
a  fish  caught  near  the  river-mouth.  Heraldic  de- 
signs of  ancient  pattern  bearing  devices  of  fishes 
are  well  known,  and  the  king  of  the  Danes  has  a 
representation  of  the  dried  cod  upon  his  coat-of- 
arms.  CORNED  COD,  LING  or  HADDOCK — A  fish 
split  open  and  laid  in  salt  for  three  days,  then  dried 
for  two  days,  is  excellent  broiled.  MORUE  AU  GRA- 
TIN — Salt  cod  in  cream  sauce,  cheese,  bread-crumbs 
and  butter  on  top;  baked.  BRANDADE  DE  MORUE — 
Salt  cod  in  butter-sauce,  oil  and  garlic;  finely 
chopped  before  stirring  in  the  sauce.  CODS  SOUNDS- 
Are  to  be  bought  at  most  provision  stores;  they  are 
in  barrels,  salted,  and  require  24  hours'  soaking; 
they  are  then  boiled  in  milk  and  water,  and  when 
tender  dressed  in  all  ways  same  as  salt  or  fresh  fish, 
broiled,  spread  with  forcemeat;  fried  in  batter,  etc. 
COD  ROE — Is  parboiled  in  salt  water  with  vinegar, 
cut  in  slices,  dipped  in  batter  and  fried,  or  egged 
and  breaded.  SMOKED  COD  ROE — Breakfast  relish; 
soaked,  sliced,  fried  a  little,  served  on  toast.  COD- 
FISH BALLS — One-half  boiled  salt  cod,  one-half  po- 
tatoes, egg  yolk  and  pepper  to  bind  and  season,  run 
through  a  meat  grinder,  balled  up,  rolled  in  flour; 
fried.  Codfish  ball  preparation  r  eady  for  use  can 
be  bought  in  cans;  needs  only  balling  and  frying; 
will  bear  more  potatoes  added.  CODFISH  FRITTERS 
— Codfish  ball  mixture  with  more  eggs  added,  little 
butter  and  chopped  parsley,  dropped  from  spoon 
into  hot  lard.  WHAT  THE  COD  EATS — "The  dredge 
is  considered  usually  by  naturalists  to  be  the  best 
implement  with  which  to  obtain  information  upon 
deep-sea  life,  but  Professor  Baird  says  that  the 
stomach  of  the  cod  is  the  best  of  all  dredges,  for  it 
usually  contains  morsels  of  every  sort  of  marine 
resident  within  reach;  while  only  a  few  weeks 
since  a  theatre -programme  was  found  in  the  stom- 
ach of  one.  With  a  high-born  contempt  for  the  re- 
quirements of  trade,  the  cod  feeds  upon  herring  and 
mackerel  extensively,  being  also  somewhat  partial 
to  lobsters." 
COFFEE  QUOTATIONS— For  menus: 


286 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


COF 

"  Cofice!   O  coffee!   Faith,  it  is  surprising, 
'Mid  all  the  poets,  good  arid  bad  and  worse, 
Who've  scribbled  (Hock  and  China  eulogizing) 
Post  and  papyrus  with  'immortal  verse'  — 
Melodiously  similitudinizing 
In  Sapphics  languid  or  Alcaics  terse — 
No  one,  my  little  brown  Arabian  berry, 
Hath  sungV/y  praises — 'tis  surprising,  very!" 

— "In  1652  the  first  coffee-house  was  opened  in  New- 
man's Court,  Cornhill,  London,  by  a  Greek  named 
Pasquet.  This  man  was  the  servant  of  an  English 
merchant  named  Edwards,  who  brought  some  coffee 
with  him  from  Smyrna,  and  whose  house,  when  the 
fact  became  known,  was  so  thronged  with  friends 
and  visitors  to  taste  the  new  beverage  that,  to  relieve  | 
himself  from  annoyance,  Edwards  established  his  ! 
servant  in  a  coffee-house.  Once  tasted,  coffee  '• 
sprang  into  popular  and  imperishable  favor,  and  it 
is  curious  to  refer  back  to  the  opinions  expressed 
concerning  it  by  wits  and  dignitaries  at  different 
periods.  "If  you  want  to  improve  your  understand- 
ing, drink  coffee,"  said  Sydney  Smith.  Sir  James 
Mackintosh  professed  that  he  believed  the  difference 
between  one  man  and  another  was  produced  by  the 
quantity  of  coffee  he  drank.  Pope  was  among  con- 
firmed coffee -drinkers,  often  calling  up  his  servant 
in  the  middle  of  the  night  to  prepare  a  cup  for  him. 
It  was  the  custom  in  his  day  to  grind  and  prepare 
it  upon  the  table,  of  which  practice  he  gives  the  fol- 
lowing details  in  verse: 

For  Io!°the  board  with  cups  and  spoons  is  crowned, 

The  berries  crackle,  and  the  mill  turns  round; 

On  shining  altar  of  Japan  they  raise 

The  silver  lamp;  the  nery  spirits  blaze. 

From  silver  spouts  the  grateful  liquors  glide, 

While  China's  earth  receives  the  smoking  tide. 

At  once  they  gratify  their  sense  and  taste, 

And  frequent  cups  prolong  the  rich  repast. 

Coffee!  which  makes  the  politician  wise, 

And  see  through  all  things  with  his  half-shut  eyes.'» 

— "From  the  Spectator  we  learn  who  frequented  the 
houses,  and  the  'Grecian,'  'Squire's,'  'Searle's'  have 
become  immortal.  In  Queen  Anne's  time,  so  it  is 
said,  there  were  three  thousand  coffee-houses.  It 
was  'Will's'  coffee-house,  William  Urwin  being 
the  proprietor,  of  No.  i  Bow  Street,  which  was 
'sacred  to  polite  letters.'  Pope  frequented  Will's, 
as  did  Steele.  Tickell,  Budgell,  Prior,  Gage  and 
Halifax  went-  to  Button's  coffee-house  in  Covent 
Garden.  Then,  too,  'Garroway'  was  headquarters 
for  surgeons  and  apothecaries,  as  '  Child's '  was  the 
haunt  of  the  physicians.  Sir  Isaac  Newton  was  in 
a  brown  study  at  the  Grecian.  Swift  sought  the 
'St.  James,'  and  it  was  at '  Lloyd's '  where  the  placid 
Addison  sometimes  sipped  his  coffee.  With  the 
coffee-houses  sprang-  in  opposition  the  chocolate- 
houses,  the  most  celebrated  of  which  were  'White's' 
and  'The  Cocoa  Tree.'  The  taverns  of  the  time  of 
Queen  Anne  were  thronged.  Good  people  cracked 
their  bottles  there  and  dined  and  supped,  and  bullies 
kicked  the  drawer  and  invented  new  oaths  and 
curses.  'The  Devil  and  the  Dragon,'  'The  Rum- 
mer,' 'Crown  and  Anchor,'  'The  Mitre,'  'The 
Cock,"  immortalized  by  Tennyson;  'The  Boar's 


COF 

Head,'  'The  Three  Cranes,,'  drew  <-nany  gallant 
fellows  together  in  the  first  half  of  the  last  century." 

"Yes,  the  wine's  a  wayward  child — 
This  the  cup  that  'draws  it  mild.' 
Deeply  drink  the  stream  divine; 
Fill  the  cup,  but  not  with  wine — 
Potent  port  or  fiery  sherry. 
For  this  milder  cup  of  mine 
Crush  me  Yemen's  fragrant  berry." 

— "  It  contains  sufficient  stimulating  properties  to  re- 
store an  exhausted  system  without  having  the  power 
to  intoxicate.  Even  in  its  early  days  an  old  writer 
of  the  seventeenth  century  claims  for  the  beverage 
this  virtue  when  he  thus  quaintly  descants  upon  its 
various  merits:  'Surely  it  must  needs  be  salutifer- 
ous,  because  so  many  sagacious  and  the  wittiest 
sort  of  nations  use  it  so  much.  But  besides  its  ex- 
siccant  quality  it  tends  to  dry  up  the  crudities  of  the 
stomach,  as  also  to  comfort  the  brain,  to  fortifie  the 
sight  with  its  steeme,  and  it  is  found  already  that 
this  coffee-drink  has  caused  a  greater  sobriety 
among  the  nations.  For  whereas  formerly  appren- 
tices and  clerks  with  others  used  to  take  their  morn- 
ing draft  in  ale,  beer,  or  wine,  which  by  the  dizzi- 
ness they  cause  in  the  head  make  many  unfit  for 
businesse,  they  use  now  to  play  the  good-fellowes 
in  this  wakefull  and  civill -drink.'  "  —  "A  compan- 
ion once  remarked  to  Voltaire  that  coffee  'was  a 
slow  poison,'  when  the  great  wit  and  coffee-drinker 
replied:  'It  must  be  very  slow,  for  I  have  been 
drinking  it  for  seventy  years.'  "  COFFEE  AND  THE 
KoRAN-"Coffee  advanced  rapidly  from  the  Red  Sea 
and  the  Nile  to  Syria,  and  from  Asia  Minor  to  Con- 
stantinople, where  the  first  coffee-house  was  opened 
in  1554,  and  soon  called  forth  a  number  of  rival  es- 
tablishments. But  here  also  the  zealots  began  to 
murmur  at  the  mosques  being  neglected  for  the  at- 
tractions of  the  ungodly  coffee  divans,  and  de- 
claimed against  it  from  the  Koran,  which  positively 
says  that  coaiis  not  of  the  number  of  things  created 
by  God  for  good.  Accordingly  the  mufti  ordered 
the  coffee-houses  to  be  closed;  but  his  successor  de- 
claring coffee  not  to  be  coal,  unless  when  over- 
roasted, they  were  allowed  tore-open,  and  ever  since 
the  most  pious  mussulman  drinks  his  coffee  without 
any  scruple  of  conscience."  FIRST  NEW  YORK 
CAFE — "When,  in  1832,  the  physicians  in  the  city 
urged  all  to  abstain  from  drinking  beer  and  wine, 
and  to  drink  pure  coffee,  in  order  to  avoid  the  epi- 
demic of  colera  that  was  then  raging,  a  large  and 
convenient  coffee-house  was  opened  by  the  famous 
restaurateur  George  Washington  Browne  on  the 
first  floor  of  what  was  known  as  the  'Auction  Ho- 
tel,' in  \Vater  Street.  The  place  soon  became  known 
as  '  Browne's  Coffee -House,'  and  was  a  most  popu- 
lar dining  resort  for  merchants.  On  the  south-east 
corner  of  what  are  now  Pine  and  William  Streets 
there  stood  from  :8i2to  1830  the  Bank  Coffee-House, 
kept  by  William  Niblo."  HINTS  TO  COFFEE- 
DRINKERS — "Raw  coffee  (the  unroasted  berry),  if 
kept  in  a  dry  place,  improves  with  age.  Those  who 
wish  to  enjoy  coffee  in  perfection  should  have  it 


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287 


COF 

fresh  roasted.  Roasted  coffee  should  be  kept  in  an 
air-tight  vessel;  the  Viennese  prefer  a  glass-bottle 
to  a  canister.  Coffee  is  very  absorbent,  and,  accord- 
ing to  good  authorities,  should  at  no  time  come  into 
contact  with  metal.  A  mill,  though  convenient,  is 
not  essential.  The  Turks  do  not  grind  their  coffee, 
but  pound  it  in  a  mortar  with  wooden  pestles. 
Brillat-Savarin,  the  great  French  epicure,  who  tried 
both  pounded  and  ground  coffee,  preferred  the 
former.  One  ounce  coffee  to  a  pint 'of  water  makes 
poor  coffee;  an  ounce  and  a  half  to  a  pint  makes 
fairly  good  coffee;  two  ounces  to  a  pint  make  excel- 
lent coffee.  Such  coffee,  mixed  with  half,  or  even 
three  parts,  its  bulk  of  boiling  milk,  forms  an  ideal 
breakfast-food  for  body-workers  and  brain-work- 
ers. A  very  small  quantity  without  milk,  taken 
after  a  full  meal,  stimulates  the  stomach  to  the  nec- 
essary effort  of  digestion,  and  wards  off  the  drowsi- 
ness which  often  follows  satiety.  This  neat  infusion 
is  generally  known  as  'black'  coffee.  But  genuine 
coffee,  when  infused,  is  not  very  black.  An  excessive 
black  color  is  given  by  means  of  burnt  sugar,  and  is 
no  sure  indication  of  strength.  It  is  a  mistake  to 
suppose  that  costly  and  cumbersome  machines  are 
necessary  for  making  coffee.  The  Brazilians  insist 
that  coffee-pots  should  be  made  of  porcelain  or 
earthenware,  not  metal.  Excellent  coffee  may  be 
made  in  a  common  jug  provided  with  a  strainer. 
Warm  the  jug,  put  in  the  coffee,  pour  boiling  water 
on  it,  and  the  thing  is  done.  Coffee  must  not  be 
boiled;  let  it  gentlv  simmer;  violent  ebullition  dis- 
sipates the  aroma.  If  a  quantity  be  wanted,  good 
coffee  can  be  made  some  hours  beforehand,  even 
overnight  if  necessary.  For  this  purpose  use  any 
large  earthenware  vessel ;  heat  it  to  receive  the  coffee ; 
fill  up  with  boiling  water;  protect  the  contents  from 
the  air  by  a  wet  cloth  over  the  lid  or  other  covering. 
When  required,  pour  gently  off  the  clear  infusion 
and  heat  it  to  the  simmering  point.  Complicated 
filters  are  unnecessary  if  your  coffee  be  pure;  if 
mixed  with  chicory,  dandelion  root,  roasted  acorns, 
roasted  cabbage -stumps,  or  other  forms  of  vegetable 
offal,  which  on  boiling  disintegrate  and  yield  a  thick, 
starchy,  albuminous,  sugary  soup,  you  will  then 
want  an  ingenious  filter.  There  are  four  distinct 
kinds  of  coffee.  The  first  and  best  is  the  Mocha, 
the  berries  of  which  are  nearly  round  and  of  a  pale 
yellow  color.  Next  in  quality  comes  the  Matiniquef 
with  berries  elongated  and  of  a  soft  green  hue.  The 
Rio  ranks  next,  the  berries  being  small  and  nearly 
gray.  Lastly  come  thejava,  whose  berries  are  large, 
flat  and  pale  gray.  The  Mocha  is  particularly  de- 
licious as  a  flavoring  in  creams  and  ices.  It  must  be 
roasted  lightly  and  infused  when  quite  hot;  then  the 
essence  of  pure  coffee  is  obtained.  Equal  portions 
of  Bourbon  and  Martinique  make  a  good  blend  in 
coffee.  Java  is  inferior.  Never  blend  coffee  until 
after  roasting,  because,  their  berries  not  being  of 
uniform  size  and  dryness,  the  cooking  of  them  will 
be  irregular.  Do  not  roast  over-much;  when  the 
berry  is  very  dark  —  not  black  —  and  has  become 


COL 

moist,  take  it  off  the  fire  and  cool  it  quickly.  The 
conditions  of  a  good  supply  of  coffee  are  a  well- 
developed  roasted  berry,  roasted  within  forty-eight 
hours  of  its  consumption,  ground  immediately  be- 
fore using,  and  brewed  for  public  supply  in  clean, 
fresh  pots  every  twenty  or  thirty  minutes."  — 
FRENCH  COFFEE — See  cafe  and  drinks.  TURKISH 
COFFEE— "To  make  Turkish  coffee  you  need  a  mill, 
which  grinds  the  coffee  to  a  very  fine  powder;  when 
the  water  is  boiling,  add  a  sufficiency  of  lump  sagar 
according  to  taste,  and  then,  when  the  sugar  is  quite 
dissolved,  the  coffee,  in  the  proportion  of  a  large 
tablespoonf  ul  to  each  small  cup.  Stir  round  vigor- 
ously, and  let  the  boiling  water  rise  once.  The 
coffee  is  then  ready  and  should  be  served  in  a  copper 
or  brass  pot.  Special  verseuses  (out-pourers)  for  the 
purpose  can  be  obtained  and  are  very  oanamental. 
Turkish  coffee  is,  of  course,  for  postprandial  use." 
RUSSIAN  COFFEE — "  Russian  coffee  is  still  more 
easy  to  make.  Fill  your  cup  half  full  of  coffee 
ground  as  above,  and  pour  the  boiling  water  on  it, 
and  sweeten  to  laste.  When  the  coffee  has  been 
properly  ground,  the  grounds,  far  from  being  un- 
pleasant, form  a  delicious  cream  at  the  bottom  of 
the  cup,  the  dregs  of  which  in  this  case  are  the  best 
part  of  the  draught.  COFFEE  CREAM — Bavarian 
cream  coffee-flavored,  set  with  gelatine;  made  of 
i  pint  custard,  i  oz.  gelatine,  %  cup  strong  clear 
coffee,  i  pint  cream  whipped;  set  in  a  mould  on  ice. 
COFFEE  CUSTARDS— Yolks-of -egg  custard  flavored 
with  clear  coffee;  in  cups;  steamed,  meringue'd  when 
cold.  COFHEE  ICE-CREAM — Best  made  with  pure 
cream  with  sugar  and  strong  clear  coffee;  custard 
can  be  used,  or  part  cream.  ICED  COFFEE — A  popu- 
lar beverage  consisting  of  coffee  with  cream  and 
sugar  the  ordinary  way,  with  shaved  ice  added; 
shaken  up;  imbibed  through  a  straw.  COFFEE 
CAKES — Meaning  cakes  to  eat  with  coffee,  are  kinds 
of  sweetened  bread;  some  are  flat-bread  cakes  with 
sugar  and  cinnamon  on  the  surface;  others  are  buns 
or  rusks.  (See  Caf6.) 

COINGS  (Fr.)— Quincies. 

COLBERT  .  SAUCE— Brown;  made  of  i  pint 
espagnole,  2  tablespoons  extract  of  beef,  pepper, 
parsley,  lemon  juice,  6  oz.  butter  beaten  in  by  por- 
tions, not  boiled. 

COLBERT  SOUP  — Endive  soup  with  eggs, 
made  of  shredded  hearts  of  endive,  blanched,  stewed 
in  butter,  stock  added,  yolks  and  cream  to  thicken, 
a  poached  egg  served  in  each  plate. 

COLD  STORAGE — Since  artificial  ice-making 
has  become  general,  some  hotels  employ  the  freez- 
ing process  itself  instead  of  ice  for  their  cold  rooms. 
The  process  consists  of  the  rapid  evaporation  of 
ammonia  by  heat;  the  vapor  passing  through  pipes 
produces  intense  cold ;  the  pipes  being  laid  in  brine 
the  latter  becomes  colder  than  ice,  and  being  cir- 
culated through  other  pipes  along  the  walls  of  store 
rooms,  meat  rooms,  etc.,  the  cold  brine  keeps  them 
at  a  freezing  temperature,  so  that  meat  remains 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


COL 

frozen  in  them  for  weeks,  and  carafes  of  water  are 
frozen  more  or  less  as  wanted.  This  system  is 
called  cold  storage.  It  is  employed  on  board  the 
ocean  steamships,  and  by  its  means  fresh  meat  is 
kept  frozen  during  the  voyage  from  Australia  or 
New  Zealand.  The  ammonia  employed  in  the  proc- 
ess is  condenced  and  used  again  with  but  little  loss. 
In  most  towns  now  there  are  cold-storage  accom- 
modations for  hire  to  those  who  need,  yet  have  not 
business  or  room  enough  to  put  in  their  own  plant. 

COLLATION— Lunch. 

COLLEGE  PUDDING— A  plum-pudding  mix- 
ture made  up  into  balls  size  of  an  egg,  floured,  fried 
and  served  with  wine  sauce.  COLLEGE  PUDDING 
BAKED — Made  of  6  oz.  bread-crumbs,  3  oz.  sugar,  4 
eggs,  %  cup  milk,  6  oz.  each  suet,  currants,  citron, 
little  brandy  and  nutmeg. 

.  COLORINGS— RED — Cochineal,  i  oz.,  pounded 
fine  in  a  mortar,  ^  pt.  water,  %  oz.  salts  of  worm- 
wood; boiled  i  minute;  %  oz.  cream  tartar,  little 
powdered  alum,  strained,  little  sugar  added  to  keep 
it.  CHERRY  RED — Dutch  grappe  madder,  2  oz., 
tied  in  a  cloth  and  beaten  in  a  mortar,  with  water, 
4  pts. ;  boiled;  alum  and  oil  of  tartar  added,  let  settle, 
wash  the  sediment,  dry  it,  dissolve  in  alcohol. 
BEET  RED — Juice  of  blood  beets  for  ices  and  jellies, 
extracted  by  pouring  boiling  water  acidulated,  over 
slices.  BLUE — (/)-Indigo  in  warm  water  for  some 
uses;  for  candy,  indigo  pounded  fine  is  dissolved  in 
gin  or  alcohol.  (a)-Prussian  or  Antwerp  blue 
ground  fine  and  mixed  with  water.  YELLOW  -Tur- 
meric or  saffron  dissolved  in  water  or  alcohol;  tinc- 
ture of  saffron  is  used  for  coloring  ices  and  syrups. 
Barberry  root  with  alum  and  cream  tartar  makes  a 
yellow  for  candies.  GREEN — (/)  Fustic,  i  oz. ;  tur- 
meric, %  oz. ;  alum  and  cream  tartar  each  2  drachms, 
water,  %  pt.;  boiled;  tartar  added  first,  alum  later. 
This  makes  bright  yellow;  indigo  dissolved  in  alco- 
hol added  to  make  green.  (2}-Green  is  made  by 
boiling  spinach  i  minute,  then  squeezing  out  the 
juice  by  twisting  in  strong  towel;  parsley  answers 
the  same  purpose;  both  may  be  used  to  make  a 
lighter  green  by  pounding  them  raw  in  a  marble 
mortar  and  not  boiling.  BROWN — Burnt  sugar  or 
caramel;  the  sugar  is  burnt  till  it  smokes  and  looks 
like  tar,  -water  added  and  boiled.  Many  shades  in 
soups  and  jellies,  from  yellow  to  orange,  light  and 
dark  brown,  and  port  wine  color  and  purple,  are 
obtained  with  caramel  and  its  admixture  with  coch- 
ineal. See  aniline,  also  annato, 

COLORINGS,  DELETERIOUS— A  Philadel- 
phia society  for  the  prevention  of  adulteration,  has 
sent  out  a  list  of  35  poisonous  colorings,  with  their 
common  and  also  their  chemical  names,  warning 
bakers  and  confectioners  not  to  use  them.  They 
are  mostly  the  colors  found  in  the  paint  shops,  and 
are  mineral  compounds.  The  principal  need  of  a 
coloring  seems  to  be  for  a  yellow,  to  imitate  the 
richness  of  yolk  of  eggs  in  buns  and  cakes,  which 
contain  no  eggs.  "  Notwithstanding  all  that  has 
been  published  relative  to  the  poisonous  character 


COM 

of  chrome  yellow  as  a  coloring  matter  for  confec- 
tionery, buns,  cakes,  and  pastry,  President  Amer- 
ling  states  that  a  large  number  of  bakers  are  still 
using  the  stuff.  Yesterday  he  visited  five  bakeries, 
each  of  which  does  a  large  business,  and  in  every 
case  chrome  yellow  was  found  in  use.  The  pro- 
prietor of  one  of  these,  a  prominent  up-town  baker, 
was  exceedingly  indignant  at  the  appearance  of 
President  Amerling,  and  stoutly  denied  using  the 
poison.  '  Well,  what  do  you  use ? '  asked  the  presi- 
dent. '  Why,  canary  yellow,  and  that's  not  poison. 
I'm  not  afraid  to  eat  it  myself.'  The  matter,  when 
shown,  proved  to  be  nothing  else  than  chrome  yel- 
low. The  baker  was  cautioned  not  to  use  it  again 
under  pain  of  prosecution.  He  had  been  reported 
to  the  society  by  a  gentleman  who  stated  in  a  letter 
that  his  own  family  and  a  number  of  neighbors  had 
been  made  sick  by  eating  buns  purchased  at  his 
bakery." 

COLLOPS— (/)-Minced  beef;  same  as  beef  saus- 
age meat;  same  as  Hamburg  steak,  except  variations 
in  the  seasonings.  (2)  -  Beefsteaks  of  small  size. 
(j)-A  slice  of  meat  of  any  kind  is  called  a  collop  in 
some  places;  synonymous  with  steak. 

COLUMN  CUTTERS- Tubular  cutters  of  the 
apple -corer  shape  are  so  called;  they  are  put  up  in 
sets  or  nests,  running  from  the  size  of  macaroni  to  an 
inch  diameter.  LTsed  for  cutting  cork  shapes  of  veg- 
etables for  chartreuses,  pipe  shapes  for  consommes, 
Cores  and  lozenges  for  potatoes  to  fry,  to  serve  with 
fish,  etc.,  and  for  stamping  out  round  slices  of  beets 
for  decorating  salads,  egg  custards  for  soups,  and 
the  like. 

COMMUTATION  TICKETS— At  restaurants; 
reduced  rate  tickets. 

COMPOTES — Fruits  stewed  in  syrup  so  as  to 
keep  the  original  shape,  not  broken.  COMPOTE  OF 
PEARS — Pears  pared,  but  not  divided,  simmered  in 
porcelain  kettle  with  water  to  cover;  dipped  out, 
syrup  made  of  i  Ib.  sugar  to  about  8  pears,  little 
cinnamon,  glass  of  sherry  added  to  the  pear  liquor, 
boiled  down,  pears  in  it;  served  cold.  COMPOTE 
DE  ABRICOTS — Apricots  stewed  in  syrup.  COM- 
POTE DE  PRUNES  REINE-CLAUDE  —  Greengage 
plums  boiled  in  syrup.  COMPOTE  DE  PECUES  A  LA 
CONDE — Peaches  boiled  in  syrup  and  served  on  a 
.bed  of  rice,  sweetened,  red  currant  jelly  diluted 
poured  over.  The  best  qualities  of  California  canned 
fruits  in  syrup  are  fine  compotes  ready  made.  COM  - 
POTE  DE  FRUITS  A  LA  NoRMANDE — Pear  butter; 
made  by  stewing  pears  in  cider  or  perry.  COMPOTE 
D'ORANGES — Quarters  of  oranges  boiled  in  syrup; 
served  hot  with  a  border  or  cassolette  of  rice  flour, 
or  cold  with  cake.  COMPOTE  DE  MAKRONS — Chest- 
nuts boiled  in  syrup  with  lemon  juice;  served  on 
oval  pieces  of  fried  bread  dipped  in  diluted  jelly. 
COMPOTE  OF  PEACHES  A  LA  CONDE — Peaches  in 
halves  in  syrup;  rice  made  like  pudding,  part  cooked 
as  peach -shaped  croquettes,  remainder  a  bed  to 
build  the  peaches  upon;  ornamented  with  candied 
fruits  and  syrup  over  the  peaches  and  around  the 


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289 


COM 

croquette  border.  POMMES  A  LA  PARISIENNE— A- 
compote  of  apples  in  quarters,  stewed  with  butter 
in  the  syrup;  served  on  toasted  rusks  (brioche),  red 
currant  jelly  in  the  syrup  poured  over  all.  ICED 
COMPOTE  OF  STRAWBERRIES — Fresh  berries  made 
ice-cold  on  ice;  syrup  and  sauterne  wine  mixed  and 
frozen  and  spread  over  the  berries. 

CO  MPOTIERE— Crockery -ware  fruit  stand;  a 
tall  bowl. 

COMUS — The  god  of  revelry;  sometimes  named 
in  connection  with  feasting.  The  luxuries  of  the 
table  are  called  the  gifts  of  Comus. 

COMFITS— That  class  of  candies  like  sugared 
almonds,  having  a  center  covered  by  successive 
coats  of  sugar.  Comfits  mentioned  in  recipes  to 
strew  over  cakes  are  extremely  small,  like  seeds  of 
various  colors. 

CONGER  EEL — A  very  large  species,  as  much 
larger  than  the  common  eel  as  a  fowl  is  larger  than 
a  partridge.  A  prejudice  against  eating  it  exists  in 
some  localities,  as  is  the  case  with  our  catfish,  but 
not  everywhere.  CONGER  FOR  BREAKFAST — The 
bone  taken  out  without  dividing  the  fish;  salt  and 
pepper  rubbed  in,  the  meat  side  laid  open;  the  fish 
then  fastened  on  a  wall  in  the  shade  to  cure  for  two 
days;  pieces  cut  off,  broiled  and  buttered.  CONGER 
EEL  STEWED— In  brown  gravy,  or  dressed  in  steaks 
or  cutlets,  is  by  no  means  contemptible  eating;  it  is 
also  good  roasted,  or  baked,  made  into  a  soup,  or 
curried.  CONGER  SOUP — The  head  and  shoulders  of 
a  large  conger  is  covered  with  cold  water,  sweet 
herbs,  onion,  piece  of  lemon  peel;  boiled  ij^  hours; 
skimmed  free  from  the  oil  of  the  fish;  milk,  flour  and 
butter  thickening,  and  green  peas  added,  and  the  fish 
in  pieces.  "The  conger  eel  good  eating  as  soup? 
Well,  I  should  just  think  so.  You  ask  the  first 
Guernsey  man  you  come  across — Guernsey  man  or 
Guernsey  woman,  Jersey  man  or  Jersey  woman  (as 
Mrs.  Langtry,  for  instance) — what  is  the  pride  and 
glory  of  his  or  her  island.  '  Why,  conger-eel  soup,' 
will  be  the  answer  And  so  it  is.  The  first  time  I 
tasted  it  was  at  a  '  toney  '  dinner  at  the  Governor  of 
Guernsey's  house.  In  fact,  it  is  the  national  dish  of 
Sarnia.  The  Elizabeth  College  boys  are  notoriously 
so  fond  of  it  that  they  go  by  the  name  of  'College 
Congers,'  the  cause  of  an  eternal  feud  and  much 
bloodshed  between  them  and  the  'cads,'  or  town  boys. 
The  soup  is  made  principally  with  milk,  but  you 
have  the  proper  recipe." 

CONGRESS  CAKE— Paris  specialty.  Made  of 
12  oz.  sugar,  8  oz.  butter,  9  oz.  flour  and  starch 
(about  half  and  half),  6  yolks;  butter,  yolks  and  half 
the  sugar  creamed  together;  re^t  of  sugar  added, 
and  flour  and  flavorings;  baked  in  a  border  moukU 
center  filled  with  jelly;  served  warm. 

CONSOMMES— Clear  soups.  Made  by  prepar- 
ing a  soup  as  to  strength  and  flavorings  complete, 
'.nit  generally  without  any  thickening  ingredients; 
straining  it,  adding  chopped  lean  raw  meat  and 
•white  of  eggs,  and  boiling,  then  straining  it  clear 


CON 

and  transparent  through  a  jelly  bag  or  cloth.  CON- 
SOMME A  L'IMPERATRICE — Clear  soup  with  a 
poached  egg  in  the  plate;  named  for  the  Empress 
Josephine.  CONSOMME  AUX  CEuFs  POCHES — An- 
other name  for  the  foregoing.  "  The  story  runs  tha 
the  Empress  Josephine  returned  after  one  of  the  im- 
perial hunts  at  Fountainebleau  very  tired  and  had 
just  time  to  change  her  dress  for  dinner.  '  The  only 
thing  I  could  eat  at  dinner,'  she  exclaimed,  '  would 
be  a  new-laid  egg.'  One  of  the  ladies  hearing  this 
hurried  to  General  R.,  who  was  the  superintendent 
of  the  palace,  and  transmitted  her  mistress's  wish  to 
him.  The  general  immediately  communicated  with 
the  chef,  who  saw  no  better  way  of  gratifving  the 
Empress's  wish  than  by  introducing  poached  eggs 
into  the  clear  soup.  All  the  menus  were  written 
'Potage  Consomme ' — the  only  addition  to  make  was 
'a  I' Imperatrice.'  The  guests  wondered,  but  the 
Empress  was  pleased,  and  the  new  soup  had  its 
days."  CONSOMME  A  LA  COLBERT — Clear  soup  with 
shreds  of  lettuce,  celery,  Jerusalem  artichokes  and 
small  onions.  CONSOMME  A  LA  PRINCE  DE  GALLES- 
Clear  soup  with  small  diamond  shapes  of  quenelle 
forcemeat  inclosing  pieces  of  chicken  meat,  royale 
custards  in  same  shapes,  and  asparagus  points. 
CONSOMME  AUX  HARICOTS  VERTS—  Clear  soup  with 
shreds  of  string  beans  cooked  green  and  kept  separ- 
ate till  served.  CONSOMME  AUX  PATES  D'ITALIE  - 
Clear  soup  with  any  of  the  various  Italian  pastes, 
but  preferably  with  the  alphabet  or  similar  fancy 
pastes.  CONSOMME  A  LA  JERUSALEM — Clear  soup 
with  balls  like  large  peas  scooped  out  of  Jerusalem 
artichokes.  CONSOMME  A  LA  MONTE  CARLO— 
French  specialty.  With  fancy  cutters  vegetables 
and  truffles  are  cut  out  to  imitate  clubs,  diamonds, 
spades  and  hearts;  chicken  forcemeat  dotted  with 
truffles  make  dominoes;  pipe  macaroni  stuffed  with 
pur£e  of  green  peas  and  forcemeat,  cut  across,  forms 
rings.  These  are  all  served  in  the  plates  of  clear 
soup.  CONSOMME  NATIONAL — French  specialty. 
Vegetables  reduced  to  a  savory  mince  inclosed  in 
small  egg  shapes  of  chicken  forcemeat;  served  in  a 
plate  of  clear  soup ;  the  vegetables  used  are  2  carrots, 
2  leeks,  i  turnip,  cut  in  dice  and  fried  in  butter,  then 
stewed  in  consomme  to  glaze.  CONSOMME  A  LA 
DUCHESSE — A  clear  soup  slightly  thickened  with 
starch,  which  becomes  clear  again  by  slow  simmer- 
ing; then  strips  of  white  meat  added.  CONSOMME 
A  LA  NIVERNAISE— Clear  soup  with  fancy  Italian 
pastes,  quenelles  and  vegetables  stamped  in  shapes. 
CONSOMME  AU  VERMicELLi-Clear  soup  with  vermi- 
celli, the  latter  cooked  and  kept  separate  till  served. 
CONSOMME  AU  TAPIOCA — Clear  soup  with  tapioca 
previously  washed  and  steeped  in  cold  water, 
drained  and  simmered  in  the  consomme  until  trans- 
parent. CONSOMME  A  LA  ROYALE  —  Clear  light- 
brown  soup  containing  squares  of  egg  custard;  this 
is  made  by  mixing  a  very  little  broth  with  some  eggs 
as  if  for  an  omelet,  5  yolks  and  i  whole  egg  prefer- 
able to  all  eggs,  then  cooking  it  in  a  buttered  pan 
set  in  another  pan  of  boiling  water.  If  subjected  to 


290 


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cox 

too  much  heat  and  rapid  boiling,  the  custard  be- 
comes spongy  and  cannot  be  cut  to  shape.  When 
done,  the  custard  is  turned  out  and  cut  diamond- 
wise  and  a  few  pieces  served  in  each  plate.  The 
changes  are  to  make  some  all  yolk,  some  all  while, 
and  some  white  colored  with  beet  juice,  some  green 
colored  with  spinach  juice  or  parsley.  CONSOMME 
DESCLiGNAC-Clear  soup  containing  sherry  and  with 
rcyale  custards  stamped  out  in  round  lozenge  shapes 
with  shapes  of  carrot  and  turnip  to  match.  CON- 
SOMME A  L'ANDALOUSE — Clear  soup  with  vegetable8 
cut  in  thin  rounds  with  a  column  cutter;  also  a  to" 
mato  omelet  mixture  of  i  pint  tomato  sauce  mixed 
with  12  yolks  and  2  whole  eggs  steamed,  and  a  piece 
of  it  in  each  soup  plate.  The  tomato  mixture  to  be 
either  steamed  in  thimble  moulds  or  cut  in  diamond5 
out  of  large  pan.  CONSOMME  A  LA  MACEDOINE  IIE 
LEGUMES — Clear  soup  with  all  sorts  of  different- 
colored  vegetables  cut  into  very  small  dice.  CON- 
SOMME A  LA  BOURDALOUE— Clear  chicken  broth 
served  with  squares  of  white  chicken  meat  and 
French  peas  in  the  plates;  also  in  each  one  a  thimble 
mould  of  rice,  seasoned  and  bound  with  yolks  and 
colored  like  lobster;  steamed.  CONSOMME  DE  Gi- 
BIER — Clear,  dark  and  strong  essence  of  game  soup, 
with  small  cubes  of  breast  of  grouse  and  balls  of 
rabbit  forcemeat  made  green  with  parsley  and 
poached  separately.  CONSOMME  A  LA  MONTMOR- 
ENCY — Clear  chicken  broth  with  chicken-forcemeat 
balls  and  squares  of  lasagnes  paste  in  the  plates, 
and  also  cigarettes  of  forcemeat  rolled  up  in  blanched' 
lettuces;  braised.  CONSOMME  SAGOU  LIE  —  Clear 
soup  with  washed  sago  simmered  in  it;  about  2  oz. 
to  a  gallon.  CONSOMME  AUX  POINTES  D'ASPERGKS 
ET  CEuFS  POCHES — Clear  soup  with  a  poached  egg 
and  spoonful  of  green-cooked  asparagus  heads  in 
each  plate.  CONSOMME  A  LA  MAGENTA  —Clear  soup 
colored  slightly  with  red  tomato  juice,  an  assortment 
of  vegetables  cut  as  for  macedoine;  chopped  celery- 
leaves,  chervil  and  parsley.  CONSOMME  A  LA  ME- 
DICIS — A  white  soup  slightly  thickened  with  flour 
and  butter;. a  poached  egg  in  each  plate;  also,  a  fried 
croustade  filled  with  puree  of  chicken  (like  a  patty) 
served  separately.  CONSOMME  A  LA  RACHEL — A 
cream-colored  soup  thickened  with  flour  and  butter, 
yolks  and  cream;  little  custards  of  chicken  forcemeat 
prepared  as  for  royale,  green  peas  and  small  cut 
string  beans  in  the  plates.  CONSOMME  A  LA  KURSEL- 
Clear  soup  with  spring  vegetables,  peas,  asparagus- 
heads  and  shred  lettuce.  CONSOMME  PRINTANIERE- 
Spring  soup;  clear  with  early  summer  vegetables, 
especially  peas  and  asparagus-heads.  CONSOMME 
PRINTANIERE  ROYALE — Printaniere  with  royale 
custards  in  it  besides  the  vegetables.  CONSOMME 
A  LA  CHATELAINE — Clear  soup  with  royale  custards, 
made  of  %  pint  pur£e  of  white  or  ions  in  10  yolks 
and  2  eggs  and  spoonful  of  cream  and  seasonings ; 
also,  peas  and  cut  string  beans.  CONSOMME  A  LA 
PALESTINE — Chicken  broth  with  stewed  Jerusalem 
artichokes  in  slices;  also  some  rice  cooked  separ- 
ately in  distinct  grains  and  mixed  in.  CONSOMME 


COX 

A  LA  XAPOLITAINE — Clear,  strong  game  broth,  with 
stewed  celery  in  small  squares,  game  forcemeat 
quenelles,  macaroni  in  inch  lengths,  and  shapes  of 
fried  bread.  CONSOMME  AUX  PETITS  NAVETS  A 
BRUN — Clear  soup  with  brown-fried  cubes  of  turnip. 
CONSOMME  AUX  QUENELLES — Clear  soup  with  small 
balls  of  chicken  meat  finely  pounded,  mixed  with 
cream,  yolks,  finely  minced  parsley,  seasonings, 
poached  separately.  CONSOMME  AUX  PROFITE- 
ROLLES — Clear  soup  with  light  balls  of  choux  paste 
in  the  plates.  (See  choux).  These  are  boiled  in  broth 
with  the  steam  shut  in  if  to  be  served  immediately, 
for  they  rise  and  then  fall;  but,  if  not,  are  baked  in 
a  very  slack  oven  till  dry,  when  they  remain  light. 
The  paste  for  these  has  a  proportion  of  grated  cheese 
mixed  in.  CONSOMME  A  LA  XAVIER — Pron.  Hevier. 
Clear  soup  with  shred  lettuce  or  cabbage  and  other 
vegetables,  and  pea-shaped  drops  of  paste  made  by 
dripping  egg-batter  through  a  colander  into  it  while 
boiling.  CONSOMME  JULIENNE— Clear  brandy-col- 
ored soup  with  vari-colored  vegetables,  which  are 
cut  into  shreds,  like  straws,  and  half  cooked  in  but- 
ter and  sugar  before  being  added  to  it.  Brillat- 
Savarin  savs  that  he  taught  a  Xew  York  restaurant- 
keeper  named  Julien  how  to  change  his  ordinary 
/  -l-au-feu  into  this  artistic  soup,  and  that  it  had  a 
great  run  as  Julien's  soup.  CONSOMME  A  LA  BRU- 
NOISE — Clear  brown  soup  with  vari-colored  vegeta- 
bles cut  in  very  small  squares,  and  green  peas. 
CONSOMME  A  LA  PAYSANNE — Peasant's  soup.  Clear 
broth  with  various  vegetables  cut  small,  and  shred 
lettuce.  CONSOMME  A  LA  JARDINIERE— Gardener's 
soup,  perhaps  flowery  soup.  Clear  soup  with  vari- 
colored vegetables  stamped  in  small  fancy  shapes. 
There  are  jardiniere  cutters  to  be  bought  which  per- 
form this  operation  speedily  enough.  CONSOMME 
A  LA  CHIFFONADE — Clear  soup,  like  paysanne,  with 
shred  lettuce  and  peas.  CONSOMME  A  LA  SEVIGNE — 
Clear  chicken  broth  having  royale  custards  consist- 
ing of  pounded  chicken  meat  and  eggs,  and  green 
peas  and  small  cut  green  string  beans  in  the  plates. 
CONSOMMK  A  LA  TALMA — Clear  soup  with  royale 
custards  made  of  almond  puree,  or  milk  mixed  with 
eggs,  and  boiled  rice  in  the  plates.  CONSOMME  AUX 
TROIS  RACIXES — Clear  soup  with  cubes  of  carrots, 
turnips  and  celery.  CONSOMME  AU  MACARONI — 
Clear  brown  soup  with  macaroni  boiled  separately, 
cut  in  rings  and  added  to  the  consomme  when  served 
— not  to  dull  its  clearness  by  being  stirred  about  in  it, 
CONSOMME  AUX  CROUTES— Clear  soup  with  small 
thin  triangles  of  bread,  fried  in  butter,  in  the  plates. 
CONSOMME  A  LA  CAREME — Clear  soup,  brandy- 
color,  containing  small  round  lozenge-shapes  of 
vegetables,  lettuce,  sorrel,  chervil  leaves,  asparagus 
points,  little  sugar  with  the  seasonings,  and  small 
shapes  of  bread  toasted  in  the  oven.  CONSOMME  AU 
Riz— Clear  soup  with  a  little  rice  in  large  distinct 
grains,  washed  after  cooking,  then  put  in  the  soup. 
CONSOMME  AUX  PETITS  Pois — Clear  soup  with  very 

i  green  peas— June  peas  or  French.    (See  pelages  and 

i  soups.) 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


291 


COO 

COON — The  racoon;  American  small  wild  animal ; 
weight,  ioto2olbs.;  is  considered  good  game,  but 
generally  only  plainly  baked  or  stewed — country 
fashion. 

COQ  DE  BRUYERE  (Fr.)— Black-game;  a  spe- 
cies of  grouse. 

COQUILLES  (Fr.)— Shells.  COQUILLE  DE  Ho- 
MARD — Scalloped  lobster  served  in  the  shell.  CO- 
QUILLES DE  MOULES — Mussels  scalloped  in  scallop- 
shells.  COQUILLES  DE  HOMARD  A  LA  CREME— 
French  specialty.  The  meat  of  a  lobster  cut  in  dice 
with  the  third  of  its  volume  of  mushrooms;  Becha- 
mel sauce  with  the  mushroom  liquor,  fish  essence, 
cayenne;  the  lobster  and  mushrooms  mixed  in  the 
sauce,  put  in  scallop  shells,  bread  crumbs  on  top, 
and  butter  to  moisten ;  baked.  COQUILLES  OF  SAL- 
MON A  L'ITALIENNE — Small  slices  of  salmon  with 
sauce,  baked  in  silver  scallop-shells,  bread  crumbs 
on  top — scalloped  salmon  steaks. 

CORBEILLE  (Fr.)— Basket.  CORBEILLES  DE 
FRUITS— Baskets  of  fruit.  CORBEILLES  D'AMAN- 
DES  PRALINEES — Baskets  built  of  sugared  almonds. 

CORDIAL — An  alcoholic  syrup  of  any  flavor;  a 
liqueur  is  flavored  spirit  without  syrup. 

CORDON  BLEU— A  cook  of  £he  first  order; 
generally,  however,  applied  to  first-class  female 
cooks.  The  name  has  reference  to  the  order  of  the 
blue  ribbon  instituted  by  one  of  the  French  kings. 
"King  Louis  XV  had  among  his  numerous  failings 
a  supreme  contempt  for  female  cooks  and  never 
would  admit  that  they  could  cook  a  dinner  worthy 
of  being  eaten  by  him,  until  one  day,  when  he  was 
dining  with  the  celebrated  Madame  du  Barry  and 
was  served  successively  with  dishes  of  the  most 
recherche  description  admirably  cooked,  he  was  so 
overcome  at  such  elaborate  and  perfect  fare  that  he 
asked  to  see  the  cook,  but  on  hearing  that  all  this 
was  the  handicraft  of  a  women  he  felt  quite  dis- 
gusted; however,  soon  recovering  his  serenity  he 
consented,  and,  at  the  request  of  his  mistress,  he 
enobled  the  cook  by  conferring  upon  her  the  '  Cor  • 
don  Bleu,"  (the  order  of  knighthood  of  the  Saint 
Esprit,  instituted  by  Henry  III),  which  from  that 
time  has  been  the  recognized  definition  of  a  skillful 
female  cook.  In  France,  when  you  are  dining  with 
friends  and  admire  the  fare,  it  is  quite  the  correct 
thing  to  say  to  the  mistress  of  the  house:  '  Madame, 
you  have  a  veritable  cordon  bleu ! " 

CORKAGE — A  charge  made  for  opening  bottles 
of  wine,  service,  use  of  glasses,  etc.,  additional,  to 
the  price  of  the  wine. 

CORN — In  the  United  States  it  is  Indian  corn  or 
maize;  in  England  corn  means  all  grains  that  are 
used  for  making  bread;  wheat,  oats,  barley  and  rye 
are  all  corn  over  there,  and  Indian  corn  is  maize. 
GREEN  CORN — Gathered  when  in  the  milk  state  it 
is  more  succulent  than  even  the  tenderest  green 
peas;  it  is  never  so  thoroughly  a  luxury  as  when 
eaten  off  the  cob,  as  is  the  custom;  the  cars  should 


COR 

be  prepared  by  having  one  row  of  grains  cut  away, 
it  is  then  boiled  about  20  minutes  in  salted  water; 
served  in  the  folds  of  a  napkin,  eaten  with  butter. 
CUT-OFF  CORN — The  tender  ears  cooked  and  the 
grains  cut  off  and  seasoned  with  salt  and  butter, 
served  in  dishes  same  as  peas.  GREEN  COKN  PUD- 
DING— Cut-off  corn  mixed  with  butter,  milk,  salt, 
pepper,  and  yolks  enough  to  make  it  a  soft  custard 
when  baked;  eaten  as  a  vegetable.  GRATED  CORN 
PUDDING — The  green  ears  grated  raw  and  the  palp 
made  up  with  cream,  eggs  and  butter  into  a  custard- 
like  preparation;  either  baked  or  cooked  in  a  farina 
kettle.  GREEN  CORN  FRITTERS  —  Cut-off  corn 
mixed  with  flour,  egg  and  butter,  dropped  by  spoon- 
fuls into  hot  lard,  fried  brown.  CORN  MOCK 
OYSTERS — Raw  corn  shaved  off  the  cob,  or  grated, 
mixed  with  salt,  pepper,  eggs,  little  flour;  fried  on 
both  sides  like  eggs,  singly;  breakfast  dish.  CORN 
MEAL — Ground  corn,  not  corn  flour;  it  makes  lighter 
and  more  palatable  bread  when  ground  coarse. 
CORN  BREAD — A  plain  kind  is  generally  used  as  a 
dinner  bread;  made  of  only  meal,  water  and  salt, 
made  up  soft,  baked  in  spoonful  lumps  on  a  baking 
pan.  CORN  HOE  CAKE  —  Corn  bannocks,  like 
Scotch  barley  bannocks,  baked  thin  on  a  girdle. 
CORN  LIGHT  BBEAD— Two-thirds  meal,  %  wheat 
flour,  little  sugar  and  shortening,  powder  and  milk, 
or  buttermilk  and  soda:  baked  in  a  pan.  CORN 
EGG  BREAD  —  Rich  like  unsweetened  cake,  with 
scalded  meal,  salt,  lard,  eggs,  milk,  little  sugar, 
powder;  baked  in  pan  or  mould.  CORN  BATTER 
CAKES — Same  mixture  as  foregoing  made  thinner, 
poured  by  spoonfuls  on  a.  hot  griddle;  varied  by 
mixing  a  proportion  of  wheat  flour  with  the  corn 
meal.  CORN-AND-RYE  BREAD  —  Mixture  of  the 
two  kinds  of  meal  with  salt,  molasses,  and  powder 
or  yeast.  CORN  MEAL  MUSH — Porridge  of  meal 
boiled  in  water.  CORN  MEAL  GRUEL— Mush  made 
thin.  FRIED  MUSH — Porridge  allowed  to  get  cold, 
cut  in  blocks,  dipped  in  egg  and  cracker  dust,  fried 
in  hot  lard;  breakfast  dish.  Is  also  rolled  in  flour 
and  saute  in  a  little  butter.  COKN  HOMINY — White; 
corn  denuded  of  the  bran  and  broken  to  the  size  of 
peas.  Used  as  a  dinner  vegetable  after  long  cook- 
ing. FINE  HOMINY — A  grade  of  the  size  of  grains 
of  wheat,  boiled;  used  either  for  breakfast,  dinner 
or  supper.  HOMINY  GRITS — A  grade  fine  as  gran- 
ulated sugar,  most  frequently  used  for  breakfast 
and  supper  in  the  form  of  porridge;  eaten  with  milk 
or  cream.  HULLED  CORN — Home-made  hominy, 
grains  soaked  in  lye  until  the  bran  is  nearly  dis- 
solved, then  washed  and  boiled;  used  boiled  for 
lunch  and  supper,  and  fried  with  butter  for  break- 
fast. CORN  MEAL  PUDDINGS— (/)-Baked ;  nv.ule  of 
8  oz.  meal  boiled  in  i  qt.  water  or  milk,  mo!:isses, 
butter,  eggs,  ginger.  (2)-Boiled;  made  of  S  oz. 
meal,  i  quart  water,  suet,  sugar,  lemon,  eggs, 
CORN  SOUP — A  cream  of  corn;  the  grains  finely 
shaved  and  scraped  off  the  cob,  added  to  veal  or 
chicken  stock  with  a  piece  of  lean  pickled  pork  and 
,  few  vegetables,  milk  or  cream,  b\itter  and  flour  at 


292 


THE    STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


COR 

the  finish.  CORN  AND  TOMATO  SOUP— Vegetable 
soup  with  chopped  tomatoes  and  grains  of  corn. 
CANNED  CORN — Some  brands  are  put  up  in  such 
perfection  that  the  canned  is  as  good  as  the  green 
and  can  be  used  in  its  place;  when  stewed  it  has  a 
little  milk  added  to  it,  and  perhaps  a  trifle  of  starch 
or  flour  thickening.  POP  CORN  —  A  diminutive 
sort  of  maize,  the  grains  of  which  burst  open  when 
roasted.  POP  CORN  BALLS  —  A  popular  cheap 
sweetmeat  made  by  mixing  syrup  with  popped 
corn  while  hot,  and  making  it  up  in  balls  wrapped 
in  transparent  paper.  An  immense  business  is  done 
in  this  product  in  the  large  cities.  CANDIED  POP 
CORN — Of  various  colors;  made  by  stirring  the 
popped  corn  in  a  copper  kettle  over  the  fire,  and 
pouring  syrup,  allowing  it  to  dry  upon  the  grains. 

CORXE  D'ABOXDAXCE  (Fr.)-H°rn  °f  plenty; 
the  cornucopia. 

CORNICHONS  (Fr.)  — Pickled  cucumbers  or 
gherkins. 

CORN  STARCH— Obtained  by  steeping  crushed 
maize  in  water  and  pressing  it  through  straining 
material  into  troughs  of  water.  Starch  will  not  dis- 
solve in  cold  water,  but  settles  at  the  bottom.  CORN 
STARCH  CUSTARDS — Starch  used  the  same  as  arrow- 
root; 2  oz.  starch  in  a  quart  of  milk  thickens  it  to  the 
consistency  of  cream;  eggs  are  added  according  to 
the  requirements.  CORN  STARCH  PUDDINGS — (/}- 
Baked;  made  of  4  oz.  starch,  i  qt.  milk,  scalded  to- 
gether; sugar,  butter,  eggs,  flavoring.  (2) -Boiled; 
4  oz.  starch,  I  qt.  milk,  sugar,  butter,  2  yolks,  fla- 
voring. Starch  is  not  to  be  cooked  much,  but  taken 
from  the  fire  soon  as  thick;  it  turns  thin  with  much 
boiling  or  baking.  CORN  STARCH  BLANC  MANGE— 
Boiled  pudding  with  less  starch  set  in  moulds; 
turned  out  cold;  served  with  cream  or  fruit  jelly. 
CORN  STARCH  JELLY- Acidulated  lemon  syrup  thick- 
ened with  starch,  simmered  clear,  set  in  moulds; 
can  be  made  with  raspberry  or  any  red  juice.  CORN 
STARCII  CREAM  FRITTERS — The  boiled  pudding 
with  yolks  added,  flavored,  made  cold,  cut  in  shapes, 
breaded  and  fried;  served  with  maraschino  sauce. 
CORN  STARCH  MERINGUE — The  baked  pudding 
with  fruit  jelly  on  surface;  meringued;  baked.  CORN 
STARCH  CAKES-Have  a  proportion  of  starch  instead 
of  some  of  the  flour.  CORN  STARCH  ICE  CREAM — 
White,  useful  for  combinations  of  colors  and  to 
make  without  eggs;  made  by  thickening  boiling 
milk  with  starch,  butter  to  whiten  it,  sugar,  lemon; 
frozen  as  usual.  CORN  STARCH  THICKENING — 
Soups,  gravies,  sweet-pudding  sauces,  etc.,  thick- 
ened with  starch  and  allowed  to  simmer  from  15  to 
30  minutes,  become  clear  and  transparent  as  before, 
smooth  and  bright,  as  they  would  not  be  with  flour. 

CORNED  BEEF— Beef  that  is  pickled  in  a  salt- 
peter brine  which  makes  it  of  a  pink  color  distinct 
from  plain  salted  beef. 

CORXED  FISH— Salted  fish ;  not  smoked. 

CORXUCOPIA— The  horn   of  plenty;  classical 


COT 

emblem  of  abundance;  much  used  by  cooks  and  con- 
fectioners in  decorative  work. 

COSEV — English;  a  thick  cap  of  woolen  material 
to  drop  over  the  tea  pot  to  keep  it  hot  while  the  tea 
is  drawing;  is  sometimes  highly  ornamented  with 
needle-work. 

COSTER  OR  CUSTARD  APPLE  — Fruit  of 
the  West  Indies. 

COTTOX-SEED  OIL— This  must  be  counted 
now  among  the  important  food  products  of  the 
United  States;  it  is  produced  in  immense  and  con- 
stantly increasing  quantities.  The  government 
commissioners  report:  "Refined  cotton-seed  oil 
is  usually  very  free  from  acid,  and  when  properly 
prepared  is  of  pleasant  taste  and  admirably  adapted 
for  edible  and  culinary  purposes,  for  which  it  is 
now  extensively  employed,  both  with  and  without 
its  nature  being  acknowledged.  It  is  now  sub- 
stituted for  olive  oil  in  some  of  the  liniments  of  the 
United  States  Pharmacopeia,  but  its  principal  ap- 
plications are  in  soap-making  and  the  manufacture 
of  factitious  butter."  As  far  as  the  buyers  of  pro- 
visions are  concerned,  the  objection  to  cotton -seed 
oil  is  that  it  is  sold  in  disguise;  as  oil  by  its  proper 
name  it  can  be  bought  at  prices  from  50  cents  to  90 
cents  or  $1.00  per  gallon,  dependent  upon  the  degree 
of  refining  it  has  undergone  and  the  size  of  pack- 
ages; but  if  bought  with  "pure  olive  oil"  label 
upon  the  package  it  may  cost  $3.00  per  gallon  or 
more.  A  test  for  cotton-seed  oil  to  distinguish  it 
has  formerly  been  to  subject  it  to  cold,  when  it 
would  set  in  the  bottle  too  thick  to  run;  that  test  is 
no  longer  good,  however,  for  the  stearine  is  now 
pressed  out  at  a  low  temperature,  and  the  oil  re- 
mains limpid.  It  has  been  easy  to  detect  it  by  the 
smell  in  frying,  but  that  only  holds  good  with 
common,  half -refined  oil;  the  best  has  no  unpleasant 
smeii,  and  is  now  generally  used  in  restaurants  and 
hotels  for  frying,  instead  of  lard.  One  of  the  great- 
est manufacturers  of  lard  testified  not  long  ago  that 
about  one -third  of  the  lard  made  was  cotton -seed 
oil;  which  fact  accounts  for  the  establishment  of 
three  grades  of  lard  in  regular  business,  the  lo-vvest 
being  always  semi-fluid  at  medium  temperature  and 
useless  for  making  the  best  pastry,  while  the  next 
grade  above  bears  evidence  of  having  been  chemic- 
ally treated  in  its  soapy,  pasty  tenacity.  If  it  must 
be  purchased  for  economical  reasons,  instead  of 
buying  it  in  the  guise  of  lard  or  olive  oil,  it  is  wise 
to  buy  cotton-seed  oil  for  what  it  is  at  the  lowest 
price,  taking  care  to  obtain  a  thoroughly  refined 
article.  That  it  needs  and  is  highly  susceptible  of 
refinement  this  interesting  extract  from  the  govern- 
ment chemist's  report  will  show:  "The  oil  as  ex- 
pressed from  the  seeds  contains  in  solution,  often  to 
the  extent  of  i  per  cent.,  a  peculiar  coloring  matter, 
which  is  characteristic  of  this  oil  and  its  seed,  and 
which  gives  the  oil  a  ruby-red  color,  sometimes  so 
intense  as  to  cause  the  oil  to  appear  nearly  black. 
The  coloring  matter  causes  crude  cotton -seed  oil  to 


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293 


COT 

produce  stains,  and  hence  is  removed  by  a  process 
of  refining-.  This  is  usually  effected  by  agitating 
the  crude  oil  at  the  ordinary  temperature  with  10  to 
15  per  cent,  of  solution  of  caustic  soda  of  1.060 
specific  gravity,  when  the  alkali  combines  with  the 
coloring  matter  and  saponifies  a  portion  of  the  oil. 
The  mixture  becomes  filled  with  black  flocks  which 
deposit  on  standing  and  leave  the  oil  but  slightly 
colored.  Refined  cotton-seed  oil  is  of  a  straw  or 
golden-yellow  color,  or,  occasionally,  nearly  color- 
less." 

COTELETTES  (Fr.)— Cutlets.  These  meaning 
originally  mutton  or  lamb  chops  having  the  rib  bone 
in  them,  the  end  of  the  bone  trimmed  serving  as  a 
handle,  all  the  unusual  things  denominated  cutlets 
or  cotelettes  are  imitations  of  the  cutlet  shape  with 
iittle  regard  to  their  composition.  C6TELETTES  DE 
HIITKES  —  (/)-Large,  flattened,  fried  .oysters  in 
bread  crumbs,  with  a  stick  of  macaroni  inserted  to 
represent  the  chop  bone,  and  perhaps  a  paper  frill 
upon  it.  (,?)-Oysters  cut  small,  mixed  with  bread 
crumbs,  sauce,  yolks,  etc.,  made  out  into  cutlet 
shapes;  breaded  and  fried.  (See  chicken  cutlets,  etc.) 

COTE  DE  BCEUF  (Fr.)— Ribs  of  beef. 

COULIBIAC — A  national  Russian  dish  of  eggs 
and  cabbage  baked  like  a  pie;  made  of  2  cabbages,  2 
large  onions  chopped  and  fried,  salt,  pepper,  4  oz. 
butter;  all  stewed  till  tender;  when  cold,  6  chopped 
hard  eggs  mixed  in;  made  like  a  thin  fruit  pie,  with 
bottom  and  top  crust  of  puff  paste ;  cabbage  filling; 
egged  over;  baked. 

COURONNE  (Fr.)— Crown.  Fillets  or  small 
pieces  of  meat  are  dished  en  couronne  when  piled  in 
ring  form.  COURONNE  DE  BRIOCHE-A  ring-shaped 
plait  or  twist,  or  loaf  of  brioche. 

COUGLOF  (Fr.);  KAUGLAUFF  (Ger.)  — A 
class  of  yeast -raised  cakes,  of  which  "election 
cake  "  is  the  American  example. 

COURT-BOUILLON-A  highly  seasoned  liquor 
to  cook  fish  in;  consisting  of:  (/)-Water,  white  wine, 
salt,  pepper,  onion,  cloves,  bay  leaf,  thyme,  parsley 
and  a  carrot.  (2) -In  Creole  cookery  it  is  a  brown 
sauce  containing  tomatoes,  oil  and  garlic. 

COUVERT  (Fr.)— Cover;  the  table  setting;  the 
plate  with  folded  napkin,  knife,  fork,  etc.  DINER 
DE  40  C  OUVERTS — Dinner  of  40  plates,  or  persons. 

COVENTRIES— Coventry  puffs  or  tarts,  made 
like  "Banburys."  Turnovers  of  triangular  shape 
with  raspberry  jam  inside;  sugar  glace  baked  on  top. 

COW-HEELS— Often  mentioned  in  foreign  re- 
cipes; they  are  calves'  feet  of  a  larger  growth,  and 
can  be  used  the  same  ways;  are  used  to  make  gela- 
tinous soups;  soused  in  vinegar;  stewed  with  odds 
and  ends  of  raw  meat  to  make  brawn  or  head 
cheese. 

CRAB — There  are  several  varieties  of  edible  or 
marketable  crabs,  besides  a  good  many  that  are 
merely  natural  curiosities.  The  smallest  is  the 
Oyster  Crab,  found  living  in  the  same  shell  with 


CRA 

the  oyster,  and  of  late  this  has  come  into  the  list  of 
delicacies;  oyster  crabs  in  various  styles  are  served 
at  the  restaurants  -  mostly,  however,  in  the  form  of 
a  bisque  soup.  There  is  another  variety  so  like  it  in 
size  and  appearance  as  to  lead  to  the  inference  that 
when  oyster  crabs  are  scarce,  as  they  must  generally 
be,  the  other  one  may  be  made  to  do  duty  for  it. 
This  is  the  Fiddler  Crab — one  of  the  most  singular 
of  living  creatures;  it  is  only  a  size  larger  than  the 
oyster  crab,  but  instead  of  passing  its  life  in  water, 
and  in  darkness  it  loves  the  sunshine;  it  lives  in 
moist  burrows  in  the  sand  near  salt  water,  and 
comes  out  in  countless  thousands,  making  strange 
motions  at  the  mouth  of  its  burrow  when  there  are 
no  intruders  in  its  precincts;  it  has  one  large  claw, 
nearly  as  big  as  its  body,  which  it  either  folds  across 
its  front  like  a  shield,  or  extends  and  makes  the 
fiddling  motion  with,  the  other  claw  being  diminu- 
tive, no  larger  than  one  of  its  legs.  These  are 
caught  and  used  for  bait.  The  Deep-Sea  Crab 
grows  as  large  and  has  as  heavy  claws  as  the  largest 
lobsters;  some  are  nearly  covered  with  thorny  pro- 
jections. These  large  specimens  are  the  kind  to 
serve  as  dressed  crabs  in  their  own  shells.  The 
Lommon  Small  Green  Crab  seems  to  exist  in  all  parts 
of  the  world ;  it  is  found  in  the  markets  by  the  wagon 
load,  and  is  the  staple  kind  for  all  the  ordinary  well- 
known  dishes  of  crab.  STUFFED  CRABS  —  Crabs 
boiled  five  minutes  in  salted  water,  the  flap  and  in- 
side part  called  "  the  dead  meat "  and  "the  lady," 
but  which  is  the  gills  and  generally  sandy  is  thrown 
away;  crabs  pulled  open,  back  shells  saved  whole, 
all  the  meat  collected  and  chopped  fine;  thick  sauce 
made  by  simmering  chopped  onion  in  butter,  adding 
flour,  then  milk,  salt,  white  and  red  pepper,  yolks, 
minced  parsley,  lemon  juice,  and  the  crab-meat; 
shells  filled  with  the  mixture;  bread  crumbs  on  top; 
baked.  BUTTERED  CRAB — A  large  crab  boiled,  the 
meat  picked  out,  mixed  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg, 
cream  or  melted  butter,  and  bread  crumbs;  shell 
filled;  crumbs  on  top;  baked;  served  hot  with  toast. 
CRABS  A  L'AMERicAiNE-The  meat  picked  out  from 
4  dozen  crabs,  drained,  2  raw  yolks  added,  salt, 
cayenne,  little  chopped  parsley,  2  tablespoons  bread 
crumbs;  made  into  balls  or  croquettes;  breaded  and 
fried.  HOT  CRAB — The  meat  of  a  large  crab,  rich 
gravy,  or  cream,  and  curry  paste,  seasoning  and  fine 
bread  crumbs;  the  shell  filled;  crumbs  on  top;  baked. 
CRAB  SAUSAGES — "Would  you  like  to  eat  crab  saus- 
ages? Boil  some  of  these  animals;  reduce  them  to  a 
pulp;  mix  with  this  some  spikenard,  garum,  pepper 
and  eggs;  give  to  this  the  ordinary  shape  of  saus- 
ages, place  them  on  a  stove  or  gridiron,  and  you 
will,  by  these  means,  obtain  a  delicate  and  tempting 
dish.  Apicius  assures  us  of  this  fact;  and  he  was  a 
connoisseur!"  CRAB  PIE  A  LA  GUERNSEY — The 
meat  of  a  large  boiled  crab  chopped,  seasoned  with 
salt,  white  pepper,  littla  nutmeg,  pinch  of  cayenne, 
lump  of  butte'"  handful  of  bread  crumbs;  moistened 
with  2  or  3  Spoons  vinegar,  hot,  mixed  with  little 
made  mustard  and  salad  oil;  shell  filled;  bread 


294 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


CRA 

crumbs  on  top;  baked;  sers-ed  very  hot.  BROWNED 
CRAB— A  large  crab,  the  shell  buttered  inside,  the 
meat  minced  and  mixed  with  partly  fried  onion, 
parsl'  v,  mushrooms,  truffles  and  butter;  flour,  salt, 
cayenne,  few  spoonfuls  of  broth  or  gravy;  rilled  into 
the  shell;  bread  crumbs  on  top;  baked.  CRAB  Soup- 
Crabs  lx>iled,  cleaned,  broken,  fried  with  onion  and 
bacon;  meat  from  other  crabs  held  in  reserve;  water 
and  tomatoes  added  to  the  fried  crabs;  stewed, 
thickened  with  flour  and  butter;  cream  added,  salt, 
pepper,  picked  crab  meat.  COQUILLE  DE  CRABE — 
Scalloped  crab  or  devilled  crab  in  the  shell.  SOFT- 
SHELL  CRABS — In  season  only  4  months,  May,  June, 
July,  August;  the  crab  casts  its  shell  yearly,  and  this 
js  the  new  shell  unhardened.  SOKT  CRABS  FRIED — 
The  small  legs  removed,  also  the  flap  and  gills  in- 
side it;  washed,  wiped  dry,  dipped  in  cream,  fried 
quickly  in  a  kettle  of  hot  lard  or  oil;  dredged  with 
fine  salt;  served  on  a  napkin  with  parsley  and  lemon. 
SOFT  CRABS.  BROILED — Breaded,  flat  in  a  double 
broiler,  done  over  hot  coals,  and  basted  with  butter. 
SOFT  CRAB  A  L'IJJDIENNE —  Cut  in  pieces,  partly 
fried  in  butter  with  onions,  curry  powder,  broth, 
etc.;  served  with  rice.  CRABS  A  LA  CREOLE — "The 
Creole  style  of  cooking  hard-shell  crabs  is  highly 
approved  by  epicures,  but  it  doesn't  recommend  it- 
self to  Mr.  Bergh's  society  for  the  prevention  of 
cruelty.  A  big  iron-pot  is  put  over  a  very  hot  fire. 
The  bottom  of  the  pot  is  then  covered  with,  say,  3 
pints  of  the  best  white- wine  vinegar,  into  which  a 
few  pinches  of  salt  are  thrown ;  upon  this  is  sprink- 
led red  pepper;  then  2  or  3  narrow  sticks  are  placed 
above  the  liquid,  the  ends  resting  at  the  sides  of  the 
pot;  the  cover  is  put  conveniently  by  for  hurried  ac- 
tion; then  the  alive-crabs  are  packed  in  to  the  full, 
and  the  cover  is  put  on.  The  steam  of  the  condi 
ments  soon  enwraps  them,  and  when  the  carapax  is 
cardinal  red,  'a  dish  fit  for  the  gods'  is  ready  for 
the  refrigerator  and  then  for  the  table.  It  is  said  by 
those  who  have  eaten  crabs  cooked  in  this  peculiar 
way  that  the  natural  moisture  and  flavor  .of  the  meat 
are  preserved,  and  that  the  boiled  condiments  give 
singular  piquancy  to  it."  DRESSED  CRAB — Is  crab  - 
salad;  the  meat  mixed  with  oil,  salt,  pepper,  vinegar 
and  mustard;  served  in  the  large  crab's  shell  on  a 
bed  of  cress  or  lettuce.  CRAB  WITH  TOMATOES — 
"Baked  tomatoes,  partly  stuffed  with  crab-meat,  is 
a  new  delicacy,  and  a  sandwich  made  of  one  slice  of 
a  large,  ripe,  juicy  tomato  with  a  layer  of  crab-meat, 
cooked  Creole  style,  isn't  so  bad."  DEVILLED  CRAB- 
The  same  as  the  various  forms  of  hot  crab,  buttered 
crab,  etc.,  which  are  but  differences  in  seasonings; 
devilled  crab  is  made  hotter,  with  some  pungent 
table  sauce.  CRAB  SALAD-Crab  meat  with  chopped 
celery  and  salad  seasonings.  CRAB  GUMBO — Crabs 
cut  in  pieces  partially  fried  with  butter,  shallots  and 
ham;  broth  added,  little  white  wine,  aromatics, 
green  pepper,  a  tablespoon  gumbo  powder  to  each 
pint  of  soup;  dredged  in  carefully;  served  with 
boiled  rice.  BISQUE  OF  CRABS — Crabs  in  pieces; 
with  vegetables  fried  in  butter;  broth  and  wine 


CRA 

added;  then  pounded  shells  and  all  with  boiled  rice, 
and  passed  through  a  seive;  soup  thickened  with 
this  pur^e;  sherry  to  finish;  served  with  fried  bread. 
CANNED  CRABS — Crab  meat  ready- prepared  can  be 
bought  in  cans;  it  can  be  used  for  all  the  hot  dishes 
where  picked  crab-meat  is  culled  for,  and  for  soups 
and  salads.  "In  England  crabs  are  in  season  all  the 
year  round,  but  are  best  in  the  warm  months.  All 
crabs  over  4^  inches  across  the  broadest  part  of  the 
shell,  crabs  in  roe,  and  soft-shell  crabs,  are  illegal." 
CRAB  APPLE— Wild  apples,  valued  for  mak- 
ing crab  apple  jelly  and  crab  cider. 

CRACKER  MEAI Crackers  crushed  and 

sifted;  used  to  bread  cutlets,  oysters  and  the  like  for 
frying.  It  is  important  that  the  crackers  used  for 
the  purpose  should  be  of  the  kinds  that  contain  no 
butter,  as  the  dust  of  butter  crackers  soon  turns 
rancid  and  spoils  the  fries.  Pieces  of  bread  thor- 
oughly dried  and  crushed  form  the  substitute  for 
crackers,  though  the  product  is  not  so  satisfactory. 

CRACKNELS— Name  of  a  kind  of  crack^s  or 
biscuits. 

CRACKLINGS— The  remains  of  pork  fat  after 
the  lard  is  tried  out  CRACKLING  BREAD— Corn 
bread  made  of  cracklings  mixed  in  corn  meal  with 
water  and  salt,  baked  in  deep  skillet. 

CRANE — Cranes  were  in  the  olden  time  con- 
sidered an  aristocratic  dish.  At  a  banquet  during 
the  reign  of  Edward  IV  two  hundred  and  four 
were  served.  Cranes  are  eaten  freely  in  the  United 
States.  A  sand-hill  crane  appeared  for  many  suc- 
ceeding years  as  one  of  the  dishes  at  the  famous 
game  dinners  by  Mr.  John  B.  Drake  in  Chicago. 

CRANBERRY— First  used  in  Siberia  and  ex- 
ported from  Russia.  Grows  wild  in  the  northern 
states  and  is  improved  by  cultivation.  The  cran- 
berry-growing interest  is  a  large  and  important  one, 
cranberry  sauce  having  become  a  national  institu- 
tion. The  cultivated  berries  may  be  known  by 
their  larger  size  and  clean  condition,  for  cultivators 
find  it  most  expedient  to  have  them  picked  by  hand. 
CRANBERRY  SAUCE  —  Stewed  cranberries  with 
sugar,  stirred  up,  not  strained;  served  with  roast 
turkey,  chicken,  goose,  pork  and  venison.  CRAN- 
BERRY JELLY — Very  easily  made  as  cranberries 
have  more  vegetable  gelatine  than  any  other  fruit. 
The  syrup  from  cranberries  stewed  with  sugar 
poured  off  clear,  sets  in  jelly  when  cold;  used  in 
place  of  currant  jelly  with  meats  and  in  pastry. 
CRANBERRY  PIE — Open  tart,  the  fruit  well  sweet- 
ened. CRANBERRY  ROLL  —  One  of  the  best  of 
"roly-poly"  puddings.  (See  apple  roll.) 

CRAPAUDINE  (a  la}— Trussed  or  spread  out 
like  a  frog.  Pigeons  or  chickens  a  la  crapaudine 
are  split  open,  flattened  and  broiled. 

CRAWFISH  — "  I  wonder  when  the  modern 
caterer  and  book -writer,  as  well  as  the  fishmonger, 
who  ought  to  know  better,  will  cease  to  stumble 
between  the  Scylla  and  Charybdis  of  cray  and  craw 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


295 


CRA 

fish.  The  former  is  a  small  crustacean  found  in  the 
mouths  of  rivers,  and  the  other,  as  a  rule,  larger 
than  a  lobster  and  a  sea  and  harbor  fish.  The  meat 
of  both  is  rich  in  inosile,  animal  sugar,  which  easily 
distinguishes  it  from  that  of  the  lobster.  Again, 
the  crawfish  is  sweeter  than  the  crayfish.  The 
identical  crawfish  for  this  dinner  were  .vo/rfas  cray- 
Jish ;  and  I  remember  in  iSSo  having-  to  review  a 
cook  book,  from  the  pen  of  an  illustrious  writer, 
where  the  two  were  confounded,  and  the  man  posed 
as  a  naturalist,  too."  LANGOUSTE  A  LA  BROCHE — 
Roast  crawfish;  the  fish  marinaded  in  vinegar  and 
oil,  or  brushed  over  with  vinegar  several  times,  then 
with  butter  and  roasted  in  a  very  hot  oven  with  fre- 
quent basting.  When  the  shell  becomes  soft  it  is 
done;  white  sauce  with  wine,  lemon  juice,  mace, 
etc.  CRAWFISH  CUTLETS — The  head  removed  and 
all  the  hard  parts  of  the  tail  except  the  terminal 
piece.  Slit  so  as  to  be  laid  open,  beaten  flat,  sea- 
soned, breaded,  fried;  served  with  tomato  sauce  or 
fried  parsley. 

CRAYFISH — There  are  two  or  more  kinds;  the 
river  or  fresh-water  crayfish,  which  may  be  found 
in  any  shallow  creek  or  brook  where  cresses  grow; 
it  is  used  for  fish  bait,  but  never  thought  of  as  an 
article  of  diet  in  this  country.  The  other  is  the  salt- 
water crayfish,  black  with  red  claws  while  alive;  it 
is  to  all  intents  a  small  lobster,  the  same  in  shape 
and  formation,  and  turns  red  when  cooked.  This 
crayfish  or  crawfish  is  but  three  or  four  inches  long. 
It  is  well  understood  and  appreciated  by  the  French 
inhabitants  of  Louisiana  and  an  article  of  regular 
supply  in  their  markets.  And  it  is  an  interesting 
crustacean  on  account  of  its  prominence  in  the 
whole  system  of  French  cookery.  Truffles  and  cray- 
fish tails — crayfish  tails  and  truffles — the  twain  are 
almost  as  certain  as  pepper  and  salt  to  be  met  with 
in  every  dish  with  a  name  in  any  foreign  menu. 
Buissox  DE  ECREVISSES  —  Pyramid  of  crayfish; 
plain  boiled  in  salted  water  with  onions,  parsley, 
pepper,  white  wine  or  cider,  cooked  for  10  minutes; 
served  cold,  built  up  on  a  napkin  folded  around  an 
inverted  champagne  glass  to  form  a  cone;  decorated 
with  parsley.  ECREVISSES  A  LA  BORDELAISE — 
The  crayfish  well  washed  and  alive ;  a  stewpan  is 
set  over  the  fire  and  these  preparatory  ingredients 
are  fried  in  it:  3  sliced  onions,  as  many  mushrooms( 
4  oz.  lean  ham  cut  in  dice,  2  cloves,  garlic,  parsley 
thyme,  bay  leaf,  salt,  white  and  cayenne  pepper. 
When  all  these  are  fried  light  brown  half  a  bottle  of 
chablis  or  claret  is  added  and  a  wine  glass  of  vin- 
egar; when  boiling,  the  crayfish  are  thrown  in,  cov- 
ered with  a  lid  and  boiled  12  minutes,  frequently 
stirred  up.  Liquor  is  then  strained  off  from  them, 
thickened  with  flour  and  butter;  tomato  sauce  added 
to  it,  poured  over  the  crayfish  in  a  deep  dish,  fried 
shapes  of  bread  around.  CRAYFISH  FOR  GARNISH- 
ING— "  Ecrevisses  of  the  smaller  kind  are  also  ex- 
tensively used  in  the  French  cuisine  for  garnishing. 
The  'poulet  a  la  Marengo,'  the  'tete  de  veau  en 
tortue..'  the  'saumon  a  la  Chambord,'  the  'matelotte 


d'anguilles,  the  'pate  chaud  a  la  financiere,'  would 
be  ignoble  and  inartistic  plates  without  the  embell- 
ishment of  crayfish.  In  France  and  in  Germany, 
where  they  are  abundant,  crayfish  is  considered  a 
very  dainty  article  of  food,  and  in  a  dejeuner  of  any 
importance,  or  an  elaborate  supper,  a  Buisson 
li'ecre-i'isses  always  occupies  a  prominent  place  on 
the  table.  In  Paris  the  craze  for  them  is  such  that 
they  are  hawked,  ready  cooked,  about  the  streets, 
the  price  varying  from  a  penny  to  six-pence  each. 
The  best  crayfish  are  caught  in  the  rivers  Meuse 
and  Rhine.  Crayfish  butter  and  crayfish  tails  are 
also  well  spoken  of;  but  the  most  historic  use  to 
which  the  little  river  lobsters  have  been  put,  is  that 
of  making  the  famous  potage  known  as  'bisque.' 
Bisque  is  as  old  a  soup  as  'potage  a  la  reine.'  " 
BISQUE  OF  CRAYFISH— Crayfish  have  always  to  be 
prepared  for  cooking  by  removing  the  intestine 
which  would  make  them  bitter;  it  is  done  by  picking 
the  extreme  end  of  the  center  fin  and  with  a  sudden 
jerk  withdrawing  the  gist  containing  the  gall.  The 
bisque  is  a  puree  of  crayfish  and  rice.  Made  same 
as  bisque  of  crabs  (which  see),  finished  with  butter, 
Madeira,  red  pepper,  and  the  tails  of  the  crayfish 
reserved  for  the  purpose.  (See  Bisque.") 

CREAM — A  new  process  has  been  invented  re- 
cently for  separating  cream  from  milk  mechanically; 
the  appliance  is  called  "Laval's  separator."  This 
contrivance  has  quite  revolutionized  the  ordinary 
round  of  operations  in  the  dairy.  Instead  of  allow- 
ing the  milk  to  stand  in  large  shallow  pans  for  sev- 
eral hours,  so  as  to  permit  the  cream  to  separate 
and  rise  to  the  top  in  virtue  of  gravity,  the  separator 
takes  advantage  of  the  so-called  centrifugal  force, 
and,  by  rapidly  whirling  the  milk  round  at  the  rate 
of  over  5,000  revolutions  a  minute,  the  cream  collects 
at  the  centre,  whilst  the  skim -milk  passes  to  the 
circumference,  and  each  can  be  readily  drawn  off 
immediately  and  continuously.  CLOTTED  CREAM — 
A  Devonshire  specialty,  but  a  common  enough  pro- 
duct of  New  England  dairies.  The  pans  of  milk 
are  heated  before  they  are  put  away  for  the  cream 
to  rise  and  let  stand  for  two  days.  The  cream  so 
gathered  is  clotted;  it  is  considered  a  luxury  to  eat 
with  fruit  and  hot  cakes.  "An  attractive  looking 
temperance  kiosk  for  the  sale  of  dairy  products  and 
light  refreshments.  The  six-penny  plates  of  pre- 
served apricots  and  clotted  cream  obtainable  here 
are  liberal  as  to  quantity,  and  present  a  really  deli- 
cious combination." 

CREAMER — A  contrivance  of  deep  cans  with  a 
faucet  in  the  bottom  of  each,  placed  in  a  framed  box 
constructed  to  hold  water  and  ice  around  them.  The 
cans  are  filled  with  milk,  the  cream  rising  to  the 
top,  the  skim-milk  being  drawn  off  at  the  bottom 
without  disturbing  the  upper  surface.  Useful  for 
hotels. 

CREAMERY— A  factory  where  butter  is  made 
in  a  wholesale  way  from  the  milk  of  hundreds  of 
cows  at  once. 


296 


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CRE 
CREAM  CHEESE— The  easiest  cheese  to  make,  I  vanilla. 


CRE 
PETITS   POTS  DE  CREME — These  creams 


and  one  which  is  much  appreciated  with  salad;  the  ;  of  any  kind  set  in  individual  cups  instead  of  a  large 
best  time  for  it  is  when  the  grass  is  rich  in  early 


summer.  A  pan  of  milk  is  allowed  to  stand  36 
hours,  the  cream  taken  off,  salted  a  little,  poured 
into  a  napkin  set  in  a  dish;  the  cloth  absorbs  the 
watery  part  of  the  cream.  When  it  has  stood  24 
hours  the  cream  is  moulded  into  cheese  shape; 
ready  to  eat  in  4  or  5  days;  will  not  keep  over  a  week 
or  two.  CREAM  CHEESE  FRITTERS— Sweet  or  sa- 
vory. Cream  cheese  (about  %  Ib.)  rubbed  through 


mould.  CREME  AU  CAFE — Bavarois  flavored  with 
coffee.  CREME  DE  THE — Bavarois  flavored  with 
tea.  CREME  A  LA  HOLLANDAISE — Bavarois  made 
yellow  with  yolks,  wine  added,  or,  a  yellow  custard 
with  gelatine  and  whipped  cream  flavored  with 
wine.  CREME  AUX  ABRICOTS  —  Apricot  pulp, 
sugar  and  gelatine  added  to  whipped  cream.  CREME 
A  LA  VAXILLE — Bavarian  flavored  with  vanilla. 
CREME  DE  ORANGES — Bavarois  made  with  orange 
a  seive,  3  tablespoons  bread-crumbs,  i  egg,  i  table-  I  syrup,  gelatine  and  whipped  cream.  CREME  DE 
spoon  sugar,  orange  flavor,  made  in  balls,  floured,  i  PRAISES — Strawberry  Bavarian.  CREME  DEPONCHE 
fried;  wine  sauce.  The  same  is  done  without  sugar,  !  — Bavarois  (or  Bavarian  cream)  flavored  with  punch. 


with  savory  seasonings. 


CREME    DE    FRAMBOISRS  —  Raspberry    Bavarian; 


CREAM    CURD  — Milk    curdled    with    rennet,     raspberry  pulp  and  syrup  with  gelatine  in  whipped 


mixed  with  cream,  drained  in  a  cloth.  Used  for 
making  real  cheese  cakes,  mixed  with  sugar,  butter- 
eggs,  bread-crumbs,  flavorings;  baked  in  a  crust 
CREAM  CURD  PUDDING  —  The  curd  mixed  with 
currants,  citron,  pounded  crackers,  sugar,  eggs 
flavorings;  baked. 

CREAM  FRITTERS  —  Oblong  or  diamond - 
shaped  pieces  of  rich  corn  starch  pudding  mixture, 
or  of  custard  stiffened  with  flour,  rolled  in  flour 
dipped  in  egg  and  cracker  dust,  fried;  sugared  or 
served  with  wine  sauce. 


cream.  CREME  AUX  MILLE  FRUITS  —  Bavarian 
cream,  with  a  mixture  of  various  candied  fruits. 
CREME  A  LA  CELESTINE — A  mould  lined  with 
strawberries  and  filled  with  Bavarian  of  any  color 
or  flavor.  CREME  BRULEE — Bavarois  made  of  yel- 
low custard  flavored  with  caramel,  sugar  and  cinna- 
mon. CREME  A  L'ARLEQUIN — Bavarois  with  cubes 
of  different  colors  of  clear  wine  jelly  stirred  into 
when  on  the  point  of  setting.  CREME  A  L'!TA- 
LIEXXE — Bavarois  with  a  mixture  of  sultana  raisins, 
canuied  peel,  dried  cherries;  cinnamon  and  curacao 


for   flavoring.      CREME   BAVAROIS  AUX  FRUITS— 

CREAM    TARTS-Z^wfer,   nirlitom;  or  fan-     Bavarian  crearn  s^-ed  with  a  compote  of  fruit. 

CURACAO  CREAM — Yolk  of  egg  custard,  well  flav- 


chonettes. 


CREAM  PUFFS— Choux  paste;  made  of  i  pint  ored  with  curacao,  dissolved  gelatine  mixed  in  and 
water,  8  oz.  lard  or  butter,  9  oz.  flour,  10  eggs  whipped  cream  added;  set  on  ice.  STRAWBERRY 
First  three  ingredients  made  into  cooked  paste  over  CREAM — Berries  with  sugar  passed  through  a  seive; 
the  fire,  eggs  beaten  in;  dropped  on  pans;  baked.  \  gelatine  dissolved  in  syrup,  all  mixed  with  whipped 
The  cakes  rise  and  become  quite  hollow.  They  are  cream;  set  on  ice.  An  ounce  of  gelatine  to  a  quart 
cut  in  the  side  and  filled  with  •whipped  cream  or  j  is  not  too  much  when  fruit  is  added;  for  whipped 


custard. 


cream  alone  %  oz.  to  a  quart,  before  whipped,  is 


CREAM  SAUCE — Made  by  stirring  flour  and  '  enough,  as  too  much  makes  the  cream  tough.  DEC- 
butter  together  over  the  fire  until  it  begins  to  bubble,  !  ORATED  CREAM — Yellow  custard  with  gelatine  and 
tnen  adding  milk,  with  constant  stirring;  finishing  whipped  cream  flavored  with  vanilla.  Some  of  the 


with  salt  and  lumps  of  butter  beaten  in,  and  cream. 
CREAM    BECHAMEL — Various  qualities  of  cream 


gelatine  custard  colored  pink  on  a  plate  on  ice;  leaf 
shapes  stamped  out  of  it  when  set,  and  the  mould 


sauce  are  made  by  using  seasoned  chicken  broth  and  j  decorated  with  a  pattern  in  pink  leaves;  filled  up, 
mushroom  liquor  instead  of  milk,  but  finishing  with  i  set  on  ice.  PISTACHE  CREAM  —  Made  of  i  oz.  gela- 
cream.  Cream  cannot  be  boiled  with  rich  gelatinous  i  tine,  4  oz.  sugar,  J^  pt.  water,  hot,  to  dissolve  the 


broth  without  curdling. 
CREMES  (Fr.)  —  Creams. 


Bavarian  creams. 


;  gelatine,  i  gill   sherry,   i  gill  kirsch  added;  4  oz. 
|  pistachio  nuts  blanched  and  chopped  fine,   green 


class  of  gelatinized  cream  compounds;  a  more  elab-  |  coloring,   i  pt.  thick  cream,   whipped,   all   mixed, 
orate  sort  of  blanc-mange,  whipped  while  setting 


on  ice  to  make  it  spongy  and  delicate.     CREME  A 


stirred  on  ice  till  thick  enough  to  hold  up  the  nuts, 
then  put  in  mould.    It  is  a  light  green  cream;  can 


LA  BAVAROISE— Whipped  cream  with  gelatine  dis.  j  ^  Put  into  a  mould  imitating  a  bunch  of  asparagus- 
sol ved  in  synip  mixed  in;  about  J^  oz.  gelatine  to  i  !  CREME  FOUETTEE  —  Whipped  cream.  CREME 
qt  BAVAROISE  AU  GINGEMBRE— Ginger  cream.  |  FOUETTEE  AUX  PRAISES  —  Whipped  cream  with 
Preserved  ginger  pounded,  mixed  with  syrup  and 


gelatine,  mixed  with  whipped  cream;  set  in  moulds 


strawberries. 
CREME    FRITE    (Fr.)  — Fried    cream;    cream 


on  ice;  served  with  cake.  CREME  BAA-AROISE  A  LA  '  fritters.  CREME  FRITE  AU  CHOCOLAT — Chocolate 
PRASLIN — Almond  nougat-candy  pounded  and  dis-  :  corn-starch  custard,  breaded  and  fried, 
solved  with  boiling  milk,  gelatine  and  whipped  j  CREME  RENVERSEE  AU  CARAMEL— 
cream  added;  moulded  on  ice.  CREME  AU  CHOCO-  I  Custard  upside  down  with  caramel;  made  by  lining 
LAT — Chocolate  cream;  some  chocolate  dissolved  in  a  mould,  or  small  individual  moulds,  with  melted 
hot  milk,  mixed  with  whipped  cream,  sugar  and  sugar  (caramel),  either  by  melting  it  by  heat  in  the 


THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


297 


CRE 

mould  or  pouring  in  from  ;i  kettle,  letting  it  run  and 
set  in  candy  on  the  sides,  then  filling  up  with  a 
strong  custard  and  steaming  till  just  set.  The 
candy  casing  partly  dissolves  while  the  custard  is 
steaming,  and  serves  as  sauce  when  turned  out  of 
the  mould.  Served  as  pudding. 

CREOLE — Name  applied  to  the  people  born  in 
the  colonies  of  France  and  Spain  of  parents  who 
were  subjects  of  those  countries.  They  were  denied 
equal  rights  with  citizens  born  in  the  old  countries, 
although  belonging  to  the  same  government.  "The 
elements  which  Spain  contributed  to  the  establish- 
ment of  the  Mexican  nationality  were  the  oppres- 
sive exactions  laid  upon  the  people  of  the  colony, 
the  foolish  refusal  to  recognize  as  equals  the  Amer- 
ican-born children  of  Spanish  subjects  (thence 
called  Creoles),  and  the  ambition  of  her  officials. 
Indian  hate  and  the  Creole  sense  of  injustice  of 
Spanish  rule,  were  the  real  impulses  that  secured 
Mexican  independence." 

CREOLE  COOKERY— It  is  simply  the  cooking 
of  their  ancestors'  country.  If  a  banquet  for  Creoles 
had  to  be  prepared  with  Creole  dishes;  it  would  be 
sufficient,  if  they  were  of  French  descent,  to  furnish 
all  such  dishes  as  are  denominated  a  la  Provencale. 
The  cookery  of  old  French  Louisiana  is  the  same  as 
the  cookery  of  the  south  of  France.  A  few  special- 
ties have  taken  root,  such  as  gumbo,  courtbouillon, 
jambalaya,  pilau,  rissotto,  bouillabaisse,  and  the 
like,  but  not  half  of  them  are  new  dishes. 

CREPE  (Fr.)— Pancake.  "  But  if  the  pancake  is, 
an  honored  institution  with  us,  it  is  much  more  so 
•n  the  Continent.  There,  across  the  'silver  streak,' 
but  more  especially  in  the  Latin  countries,  the  crepe 
is  adored  for  itself  and  as  a  symbol.  It  is  the  crown- 
ing, the  full  essence,  of  the  joyous,  rackety  carnival 
week.  The  happy  and  harmless  saturnalia  culmin- 
ates in  a  grand  Mardi  Gras  and  universal  pancake 
tossing.  Children,  both  big  and  small,  as  the  day 
draws  to  a  close,  give  way  to  their  pent-up  feelings 
in  song: 

'  Mardi  Gras  ne  t'en  vas  pas, 
Nous  ferons  des  crgpes, 
Nous  ferons  des  crfipes! 
Mardi  Gras  ne  t'en  vas  pas, 
Nous  ferons  des  crfipes, 
Et  tu  en  auras!' 

They  do  so,  too.  Why,  every  house  in  France,  let 
the  meiiagere  be  never  so  stingy  on  other  occasions, 
always  has  ready  a  good  supply  of  batter,  eggs,  lard 
or  butter,  to  say  nothing  of  sugar  and  lemons.  And 
then,  as  the  night  steals  gently  on,  what  a  to-do 
there  is!  frying  every  where;  housewives  and  willing 
aids  tossing  the  brown  curling  morsels  with  won- 
drous energy  and  happy  knack,  to  the  tune  of  a  ver- 
icable  hurricane  of  merry  laughter.  In  Southern 
Germany  the  calm  ladies  also  toss  pancakes  for 
'their  stolid  housefolk  and  invited  guests.  As  for  the 
Italian  pancake,  it  is  not  what  it  ought  to  be.  It  is 
"too  thick  and  heavy,  and  liberally  supplied  with 
eggs,  deficient  in  crispness,  and  is  generally  fried  in 
oil.  The  Provencal  pancake  is  light  and  good,  but 


CRO- 

flavored  with  orange-flower  water,  and  fried  in  a 
very  little  thoroughly  boiling  oil.  On  some  parts  of 
the  Ligurian  coast  finely-minced  beta  (a  green,  leafy 
vegetable,  somewhat  resembling  spinach)  is  mixed 
in  the  batter.  In  Spain,  ripe-pickled  olives  (purple- 
brown  and  full  of  oil)  are  sliced  and  mixed  with  the 
paste;  they  are  fried  in  olive-oil.  Both  these  are 
eaten  as  sweet  dishes,  in  spite  of  the,  to  us,  unusual 
ingredients."  (See  Pancakes.) 

CREPINETTES  — Small,  thin  pancakes  made 
into  turnovers  with  shredded  bacon  and  truffles  and 
some  highly  seasoned  chicken  forcemeat  inclosed  in 
the  fold;  brushed  over  with  egg;  baked;  served  with 
gravy,  also  flat  sausages. 

CRESSON  (Fr.)— Cress.  Poultry  snipe,  or  any 
dish  au  cresson,  is  roasted  and  served  with  law 
cress  in  the  dish,  and  the  gravy  in  a  sauce  boat 
separate. 

CRESS — Water-cress  or  garden-cress;  both  are 
used  the  same  way,  either  as  an  accompaniment  and 
relish  with  roast  fowl;  eaten  alone  with  salt,  or 
combined  in  a  salad. 

CRESCENTS  — (/) -Rolls  of  the  Vienna-bread 
variety  in  crescent  shape  made  up  with  milk;  hand- 
somely glazed.  (s)-Shapes  of  Genoise  cake,  with 
water  icing  of  various  colors;  cut  out  from  sheets. 
(j)-Glazed  crescents  are  also  a  kind  of  French  bon- 
bons, called  cavissants. 

CREVETTES  (Fr.)— Shrimps. 

CRE  VETTES  -  BOUQUETS— "A  corespondence 

was  going  on  some  time  ago  in  the  pages  of  the 

World,  between  Theoc,  the  Parisian  correspondent 

of  that  journal,  and  another,  as  to  the  French  for 

prawn.'  Theoc  stated,  and  rightly,  that  the  French 
for  prawn  is  bouquet.  Bouquet,  according  to  Littre', 
is  the  diminutive  of  boitc — a  goat,  from  the  appear- 
ance of  this  shell  fish.  It  is  usual,  however,  in 
French  restaurant  bills  of  fare  to  prefix  the  word 
cre-uettet,  thus:  Crevettes- Bouquet,  though,  to  be 
grammatically  correct,  it  should  be  written  Crevettes- 
Boiiquets.  It  is  from  Brittany  that  red  shrimps  (in 
contradistinction  to  gray  shrimps)  are  chiefly  pro- 
cured. In  Paris  these  fetch  a  high  price,  about  double 
that  paid  for  the  dull-colored  variety,  than  which 
they  are  much  less  flavored.  Shrimps  here  are  called 
ckevrettes,  or  'little  goats.'  The  word  clierettes  is 
derived  from  chevrettes,  just  as  bouquets,  or  prawns, 
is  derived  from  bouc-ejlef,  or  'little  rams.'  Shrimps 
and  prawns  alike  are  boiled  in  large  quantities  daily, 
and  sent  up  to  Paris  in  time  for  the  morning's  mar-  . 
kets,  by  the  special  fish,  or  maree,  train." 

CROMESQUIS— Kromeskies.  Russian  name  for 
a  sort  of  rissole.  CROMESQUIS  DE  HUITRES — Oys- 
ters rolled  in  very  thin  shavings  of  bacon;  dipped 
in  batter;  fried  in  hot  lard.  (See  Kromeskies.) 

CROQUENBOUCHE— "The  name  given  to  all 
large  set  pieces  for  suppers  or  dinners,  such  as 
nougats,  cakes,  pyramids  of  candied  orange  quar- 
ters, etc.,  which  have  been  covered  with  sugar,  and 


298 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


CRO 

boiled  to  a  snap,  so  as  to  give  a  brilliant  appearance. 
The  real  meaning  of  croquenbouche  is  '  crackle  in  the 
mouth.'  " 

CROQUETTES— The  word  signifies  something 
crisp.  Croquettes  are  balls  or  any  shape  of  almost 
any  eatable  thing,  floured  or  bread -crumbed  and 
fried  in  plenty  of  hot  fat,  then  drained  on  paper. 
CHICKEN  CROQUETTES  A  L'ITALIENNE— Meat  of  i 
large  chicken  cut  in  very  small  squares,  half  as 
much  mushrooms;  little  chopped  shallot;  butter  and 
flour  fried  together;  broth  added  to  make  thick 
sauce;  yolks  of  eggs,  chicken  and  mushrooms  stirred 
into  the  sauce;  made  cold;  rolled  into  pear  shapes, 
or  rolls;  breaded;  fried;  served  with  Italian  sauce. 
CROQUETTES  OF  BEEF  PALATES — Beef  palates  par- 
boiled and  skinned;  cooked  3  hours,  and  pressed; 
cut  in  small  dice;  made  same  as  chicken  croquettes; 
tomato  sauce.  CROQUETTES  DE  HOMARD— Lobster 
croquettes;  the  meat,  coral,  white  sauce,  yolks  of 
eggs,  and  butter,  made  into  smooth  long  rolls; 
breaded;  fried;  served  with  any  fish  sauce,  which 
then  gives  the  name,  as  with  Hollandaise  sauce. 
CROQUETTES  DECEKVELLES—  Brains  scrambled  with 
bread  crumbs,  milk,  flour,  yolks,  little  minced  shallot, 
nutmeg,  lemon  juice,  pepper,  salt,  parsley;  made  in 
cone  or  pear  shapes ;  breaded;  fried.  CROQUETTES 
DE  VOLAILLE  AUX  TRUFFES — Chicken  with  truffles 
mixed  in,  instead  of  mushrooms,  and  served  with 
truffle  sauce.  CROQUETTES  DE  VOLAILLE  A  L'ECAR- 
LATE — With  red  tongue  in  the  composition  and  in 
the  sauce.  CROQUETTES  DE  POMMES — Apple  mar- 
malade stiffened  with  corn  starch;  cooled;  cut  in  ob- 
longs; breaded;  fried;  served  with  sweet  sauce  or 
jelly.  CROQUTTES  DE  Riz — Rice  boiled  dry,  slightly 
sweetened;  butter  and  yolks  added;  made  in  pear 
shapes;  floured;  breaded;  fried;  currant  jelly  for 
sauce.  CROQUETTES  DE  Riz  DE  VEAU— Calves' 
sweetbreads;  same  way  as  chicken  or  brains.  CRO- 
QUETTES OF  RICE  AND  HAM— A  London  caterer's 
specialty.  Potted  ham  or  tongue  made  in  small 
balls;  rice  cooked  and  seasoned;  yolks  and  whipped 
whites  added;  the  ham  balls  covered  with  the  rice 
paste;  egged;  rolled  in  ground  pop-corn;  fried; 
white  sauce  containing  lemon  juice.  TURKEY  CRO- 
QUETTES—Made  of  i  Ib.  cold  turkey,  J£  Ib.  bread 
crumbs,  J^  Ib.  butter,  i  teaspoon  onion,  4  eggs, 
parsley,  little  nutmeg,  salt,  cayenne,  sweet  cream; 
bread  wetted  with  cream,  butter  and  eggs;  stirred 
over  the  fire,  chopped  meat  added;  cooled;  balled  up; 
fried.  CROQUETTES  DE  MACARONI— Macaroni  and 
cheese  in  croquette  form. 

CROQUANTE-Something  made  of  brittle  candy ; 
a  shape  made  of  almond  nougat,  a  case  formed  of  a 
brittle  cake,  made  of  equal  parts  of  pounded  nuts, 
sugar  and  flour;  to  be  filled  with  crystalized  fruit,  etc. 

CROSXES  DU  JAPOX— Stachys;  a  Japanese 
vegetable  of  the  Jerusalem  artichoke  order,  now 
jjrown  in  France. 

CROUTES  (Fr.)— Crusts;  fried  shapes  of  bread. 
CROUTES  AUX  ANCHOIS — Small  pieces  of  fried  bread 


spread  with  anchovy  butter  and  filleted  anchovy  on 

top.    CROUTES  AU  jAMBOx-Fried  bread  spread  with 

potted  ham.    CROUTES  AUX  ANANAS  — Shapes  of 

fried  bread  with  compote  of  pineapple.     CROUTES 

AUX  FRAISES  A  LA  BELLERIVE— French  strawberry 

;  shortcake;    strawberries  on    hot  buttered   rusks. — 

j  CROUTES    AUX   ABRICOTS  —  Ornamentally    shaped 

slices  of  bread  fried  in  clear  butter  with  compote  or 

j  preserved  apricots;  the  apricot  syrup  colored  with 

currant  jelly  poured  over. 

CROUSTADE— The  same  thing  made  of  bread 
and  fried  as  a  casserole  or  cassolette,  which  are 
made  of  rice  or  potato;  a  case,  large  or  small,  and 
more  or  less  ornamentally  carved. 

CROUTONS  OR  CRUTOXS—  Croutes  in  small, 
thin,  fancy  shapes,  such  as  heart  or  leaf  shapes, 
used  to  place  around  and  decorate  an  entree;  cubes 
of  bread  toasted  in  the  oven,  or  fried,  to  serve  with 
soup,  especially  with  soups  made  of  beans,  peas,  or 
lentils. 

CROUTE-AU-POT— Xame  of  a  vegetable  soup 
finished  with  triangular  thin  pieces  of  brown  toasted 
bread. 

CRULLERS— Fried  cakes;  doughnuts. 

CRULLS — Of  potatoes;  curls,  spirals,  or  long 
strings  to  fry.  There  are  special  tools  made  for 
cutting  these. 

CRUMPETS- English  name  for  a  yeast-raised 
kind  of  batter  cake,  not  rich,  but  light;  sold  by  bak- 
ers who  make  it  their  business. 

CRUST  SOUP—  Croule-au-Pot.   (See  soups.) 

CRYSTALLIZED  FRUITS— "The  process  is 
quite  simple.  The  theory  is  to  extract  the  juice 
from  the  fruit  and  replace  it  with  sugar-syrup, 
which,  upon  hardening,  preserves  the  fruit  from 
decay  and,  at  the  same  time,  retains  the  natural  shape 
of  the  fruit.  All  kinds  of  fruit  are  capable  of  being 
preserved  under  this  process.  The  exact  degree  of 
ripeness  is  of  great  importance,  which  is  at  that 
stage  when  fruit  is  best  for  canning.  Peaches,  pears, 
etc.,  are  pared  and  cut  in  halves  as  for  canning; 
plums,  cherries,  etc.,  are  pitted.  The  fruit  having 
thus  been  carefully  prepared,  is  then  put  in  a  basket 
or  a  bucket,  with  a  perforated  bottom,  and  immersed 
in  boiling  water.  The  object  of  this  is  to  dilute  and 
extract  the  juice  of  the  fruit.  The  length  of  the  time 
the  fruit  is  immersed  is  the  most  important  part  of 
the  process.  If  left  too  long,  it  is  overcooked  and  be- 
comes soft;  if  not  immersed  long  enough,  the  juice 
is  not  sufficiently  extracted,  which  prevents  a  per- 
fect absorbtion  of  the  sugar.  The  next  step  is  the 
svrup,  which  is  made  of  white  sugar  and  water. 
The  softer  the  fruit,  the  heavier  the  syrup  required. 
Ordinarily  about  70  degrees  Balling's  saccharometer 
is  the  proper  weight  for  the  syrup.  The  fruit  is  then, 
placed  in  earthen  pans,  and  covered  with  the  syrup, 
where  it  is  left  to  remain  about  a  week.  The  sugar 
enters  the  fruit  and  displaces  what  juice  remained 
after  the  scalding  process.  The  fruit  now  requires 


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299 


cue 

careful  watching,  as  fermentation  will  soon  take 
place;  and  when  this  has  reached  a  certain  stage, 
the  fruit  and  syrup  is  heated  to  a  boiling  degree, 
which  checks  the  fermentation.  This  heating  process 
should  be  repeated  as  often  as  necessary  for  about 
six  weeks.  The  fruit  is  then  taken  out  of  the  sj-rup 
and  Washed  in  clean  water,  and  is  then  ready  to  be 
either  glazed  or  crystallized,  as  the  operator  may 
wish.  If  glazed,  the  fruit  is  dipped  in  thick  sugar- 
syrup,  and  left  to  harden  quickly  in  open  air.  If  it 
is. to  be  crystallized,  dip  in  the  same  kind  of  syrup, 
but  is  made  to  cool  and  harden  slowly,  thus  causing 
the  sugar,  which  covers  the  fruit,  to  crystallize. 
The  fruit  is  now  ready  for  boxing  and  shipping. 
Fruit  thus  prepared  will  keep  in  any  climate  and 
stand  transportation."  FOR  DESSERT— "Crystall- 
ized fruits  make  a  very  acceptable  dish  for  dessert; 
they  ornament  the  table  and  please  the  palate.  They 
should  be  arranged  with  due  regard  to  color,  the 
darker  hues,  such  as  greengages,  being  used  for  the 
base,  and  the  brighter  ones,  such  as  apricots  and 
oranges,  for  the  upper  part,  the  chinks  and  crevices 
being  filled  with  cherries  and  raspberries."  CRVS- 
TAI.LIZED  VIOLETS — For  1%  Ibs.  fresh  violet  blos- 
soms 2l/2  Ibs.  sugar;  dissolved  over  the  fire  with 
small  cup  water,  and  boiled.  The  violets  are  par- 
boiled in  water,  drained  out,  then  put  into  this  syrup 
and  boiled  10  minutes;  then  drained  on  a  seive. 
Little  more  syrup  made  of  i  Ib.  loaf  sugar  with  % 
cup  water,  violets  put  in,  and  stirred  till  syrup  gran- 
ulates; then  taken  up  and  dried.  Rose-leaves  same 
way. 

CUCUMBER— Though  generally  eaten  raw  as 
a  salad  it  is  good  to  cook  in  various  ways.  FRIED 
CUCUMBERS — Cut  in  slices,  wiped  dry,  floured, 
fried  in  hot  fat,  salted,  peppered.  CUCUMBER  AND 
EGGS — The  cucumber  in  slices,  floured,  simmered  in 
stock  with  parsley  and  lumps  of  sugar  15  minutes; 
2  yolks  added,  sugar,  vinegar  and  Worcestershire 
sauce,  the  yolks  only  to  thicken  the  sauce.  FRICAS- 
SEED CUCUMBERS — Same  as  the  foregoing.  BOILED 
CUCUMBERS — Sliced,  boiled  in  salted  water  till  ten- 
der, taken  up,  served  in  gravy  on  croutes.  STUFFED 
CUCUMBERS — Seeds  removed  after  peeling,  stuffed 
with  forcemeat  of  bread,  suet,  herbs  and  raw  egg, 
boiled  in  milk  till  tender,  then  breaded  and  fried, 
either  whole  or  to  garnish  a  dish,  cut  across  in 
slices.  CUCUMBER  PUREE — served  with  various 
dishes  of  chicken,  veal,  lamb,  fish,  etc.,  made  by 
first  parboiling  cucumbers  in  pieces,  then  simmering 
with  butter,  adding  salt,  pepper,  sugar,  flour  and 
milk  to  make  sauce  of  it,  passing  all  through  a 
seive.  CUCUMBERS  A  LA  BECHAMEL — Pared,  quar- 
tered, boiled  in  salted  water,  drained,  covered  with 
cream  sauce  containing  little  sugar.  CONCOMBRES 
A  LA  CREME— Slices  in  cream  sauce.  CONCOMBRES 
A  LA  MOELLE — Stuffed  with  bread  and  marrow; 
brown  sauce.  CONCOMBRES  A  LA  POULETTE — In 
cream  colored  sauce.  CONCOMBRES  FARCIES  A  LA 
CREME — Stuffed  cucumbers  in  cream  sauce  contain- 
ing sugar.  CONCOMBRES  FARCIES  A  L'ESPAGNOLE 


CUM 

— Stuffed  in  short  lengths,  the  center  core  being  re- 
moved  with  a  cutter,  stewed  in  brown  sauce.  CU- 
CUMBER SOUPS — Puree  of  cucumbers  is  white,  made 
chiefly  of  miik  and  mashed  cucumber.  GARBURE 
WITH  CUCUMBERS — Stewed  cucumbers  on  crusts 
baked  in  soup  to  dry  ness,  served  with  broth.  CON- 
SOMME A  LA  BEAUVILLIERS— Has  stuffed  pieces  of 
cucumber  and  crusts  in  the  plates.  CUCUMBERS  IN 
STEWS — Cucumber  may  be  added  to  any  soup  or 
stew,  and  is  especially  good  in  a  rich  haricot.  Cut 
in  thin  slices  and  add  at  the  last  moment;  boil  up 
for  a  few  seconds  only,  and  the  dish  may  then  be 
served.  If  the  cucumber  is  cooked  for  any  length  of 
time,  it  will  melt  away.  This  may  be  allowed  in 
the  case  of  a  haricot,  as  the  flavor  will  be  there  if 
the  slices  are  no  longer  visible.  A  few  thin  slices 
boiled  up  in  a  light  soup  make  an  elegant  variation, 
and  will  always  gratify  the  guests  as  a  change. 
CUCUMBER  PICKLES — Youug  cucumbers  are  thrown 
into  brine  as  gathered,  taken  out  and  freshened  at 
any  time,  scalded  two  or  three  times  in  boiling  vine- 
gar, but  not  cooked  to  softness.  Pepper  and  spice 
in  the  vinegar.  SALT  CUCUMBER  SALAD — Taken  ovit 
of  the  brine,  cut  up  and  freshened  in  cold  water, 
chopped,  mixed  with  chopped  celery,  eaten  with 
oil,  vinegar  and  pepper.  CUCUMBERS  TO  KEEP — 
Packed  down  in  salt  and  water  as  they  are  gathered 
they  keep  for  months;  packed  in  layers  with  brown 
sugar  between  they  change  to  pickles  without 
further  attention.  Must  be  pressed  under  the  liquor 
with  a  weight  on  top. 

CUISSES  (Fr.)— Legs.  CUISSES  DE  VOLAILLE  A 
LA  JARDINIERE — Legs  of  fowl  boned,  stuffed, 
braised,  served  with  mixed  vegetables  in  sauce. 
CUISSES  DE  VOLAILLE  A  LA  BAYONNAISE — Boned, 
fried  with  onions  in  oil,  sauce  added,  bread  crumbs 
over,  browned  in  the  oven.  CUISSES  DE  VOLAILLE 
FARCIES  AUX  PETITS  LEGUMES— Boned,  stuffed, 
braised,  on  a  rice  border  with  fancy  shapes  of  veg- 
etables in  a  brown  sauce.  CUISSES  DE  VOLAILLE  A 
L'ECAILLERE  —  Boned  and  stuffed  with  chopped 
oysters  and  crumbs,  served  with  oyster  sauce. 
CUISSES  D'OiE  A  LA  LYONNAISE — Legs  of  goose 
previously  roasted,  cut  up,  fried  with  onion,  served 
with  piquante "sauce.'  SALMIS  DE  CUISSES  DE  CAN- 
ETONS — Legs  of  roast  duck  stewed  in  gravy  with 
wine. 

CUISINE  (Fr.)— Kitchen;  cookery.  FAIRE  LA 
CUISINE — to  do  the  cooking.  CUISINIER — Man  cook. 
CUISINIERE — Woman  cook. 

CULINARIAN — A  professor  of  the  culinary  art; 
an  expert  in  the  literature  and  practice  of  cookery 
in  all  its  branches. 

CULLIS  OR  COULIS— Broth  of  meat  or  fish 
unseasoned,  for  use  in  the  preparation  of  dishes  for 
the  table.  Blond  bouillon  or  stock. 

CUMBERLAND  STEW— American  hotel  spec- 
ialty, made  of  7  squirrels,  2  capons,  2  ft>s.  butter,  12 
cans  each  corn  and  tomatoes,  2  cans  lima  beans,  ^ 
loaves  bread,  salt,  red  pepper,  i  onion,  i  pint  wine. 


300 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


CUL 

Souirrels  and  fowls  cut  up  and  half  cooked  in  butter, 
water  and  wine,  vegetables  added,  bread  crumbed 
in;  stewed  constantly  till  sufficiently  tender. 

CULOTTE  DE  BEEF  A  LA  FLAMANDE— 
Round  of  beef  with  Brussels  sprouts  and  other 
vegetables  glazed. 

CURACAO — A  cordial;  syrup  with  orange  and 
clove  flavors,  and  alcohol,  used  in  flavoring  creams, 
jellies,  sauces,  and  in  mixed  bar  drinks  and  punches. 

CURRY  POWDER— A  yellow  powder,  of  which 
the  principal  ingredient  is  turmeric,  a  species  of 
ginger;  used  as  a  high  seasoning  for  stews  and  all 
dishes  a  rindienne.  It  can  be  purchased  every- 
where, ready-prepared  in  bottles,  or  the  same  thing 
in  the  form  of  paste.  It  is  made  of  slightly  varying 
ingredients;  this  is  a  sample  of  what  the  curry-fla- 
vorings are,  when  put  together  as  wanted  by  the 
native  cooks  of  India:  "ANGLO-INDIAN  FOWL- 
CURRY —  Materials  required:  (i)  A  small  fully 
grown  chicken  of  about  one  pound  and  a  half  in 
weight;  (2)  two  ounces  of  clarified  cooking-butter, 
lard,  or  olive-oil;  (3)  three^ medium-sized  onions, 
sliced  finely  lengthwise;  (4)  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
picked,  roasted  coriander-seeds  ground  to  a  paste 
with  a  little  water;  (5)  one  teaspoonful  of  clean  ripe 
cumin-seeds  roasted,  and  ground  to  a  fine  pulp  with 
water;  (6)  one  teaspoonful  of  the  large  variety  of 
black  mustard-seeds  reduced  to  a  stiff  paste,  mixed 
with  water;  (7)  four  large,  selected,  hot,  long-podded, 
red  chillies,  preferably  fresh,  ground  to  a  fine  paste; 
(§)  eighteen  or  twenty  large,  black  peppercorns, 
broiled  and  ground  to  a  paste  with  water;  (9)  seven 
fragrant  vendium-seeds  of  the  smallest  variety, 
ground  to  a  very  fine  powder  and  mixed  with  a  little 
water;  (10)  a  piece  of  fresh  turmeric,  or  a  bit  of  re- 
vived turmeric  rhizome,  about  an  inch  in  length, 
ground  to  a  stiff  paste;  (n)  half  a  clove  of  fresh 
garlic,  sliced  and  then  mashed  finely,  or  enough 
pulped  garlic  to  yield  about  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoon- 
ful; (12)  half  a  lime,  or  small  lemon;  (13)  one  cocoa- 
nut;  (14)  one  teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  salt;  (15)  one  j 
dessertspoonful  of  moist  sugar;  (16)  sufficient  \ 
water." 

CURRIES — Any  kind  of   meat,   fish,   game,   or 
vegetables,  cooked  with  curry  powder,  is  called  a  [ 
curry  of  that  particular  kind.     CURRY  OF  LAMB —  | 
Some  onions  are  fried  brown  in  butter,  then  taken  j 
out;  a  tablespoonful    curry   powder    wetted    with 
water  stirred  into  the  onion-butter  and  cooked  10 
minutes;  meat  cut  small,  an  onion,   an  apple;  all 
stewed  in  the  curry  sauce  for  one  or  two  hours, 
with  broth  added  if  needed.    The  meat  to  be  tender 
enough  to  be  eaten  with  a  spoon;  browned  onions 
mixed  in;  served  with  rice. 

CURRY  QUOTATIONS— For  menus :  "When 
you  talk  of  Ceylon  and  the  picturesque  city  of  Co- 
lombo and  the  ancient  city  of  Kandy,  your  thoughts 
naturally  revert  to  curry.  The  prawn  curry  of  the 
Grand  Oriental  Hotel  in  the  old  Dutch  port  at  Co- 
lombo is  .renowned  throughout  the  East;  and  they 


CUR 

give  you  with  it — in  addition  to  Bombay  ducks— 
'  poppedoms,'  if  that  be  the  right  way  of  spelling 
the  articles  in  question,  something  like  passovcr- 
cakes  fried  in  ghee  or  liquefied  butter." — "  Many  of 
the  London  clubs  have  their  culinary  specialties. 
Thus,  the  Oriental,  in  Hanover  Square,  has  long 
been  celebrated  for  its  curried  prawns;  the  Garrick 
for  its  porter-house  steaks  and  marrow -bones;  the 
Junior  Garrick  for  its  mutton  broth ;  the  Windham 
for  a  dish  known  as  'all  sorts,'  named  after  the  I7th 
Lancers;  another  club  for  its  tripe  and  onions;  while 
the  grill  at  the  little  Beef-steak,  over  Toole's  The- 
atre, is  unique." — "The  secret  of  making  curried 
prawns  in  perfection  is  to  flavor  them  with  tama- 
rinds."— "  A  little  tamarind,  scraped  apple,  or  lemon 
juice  may  now  be  added  to  impart  the  much-desired 
sub-acid  flavoring,  and  lastly,  a  cupful  of  cocoanut- 
milk  about  three  minutes  previously  to  dishing  up.'' 
"Colonel  Yule,  in  his  'Glossary  of  Anglo-Indian 
Terms,'  cites  a  passage,  quoted  by  Athenjcus  from 
Megathenes,  which  is  said  to  be  the  oldest  indication 
of  the  use  of  curry  in  India.  The  earliest  unequiv- 
ocal mention  of  it  is  in  the  Mahavauso,  the  earlier 
chapters  of  which  date  from  the  fifth  century,  A.D. 
But  it  is  as  precisely  referred  to  in  another  of  the 
ancient  books  of  Ceylon,  the  Rajavali,  which  is,  I 
believe,  held  to  belong,  at  least  in  its  original  form, 
to  the  second  century,  A.D." — "  Boiled  rice  should 
always  be  served  with  every  kind  of  curry,  and,  us  a 
rule,  it  should  be  served  separate  and  handed  before 
the  curry.  The  orthodox  fashion  of  helping  one's 
self  to  curry,  is  to  take  a  spoonful  of  rice  and  place 
it  on  a  plate,  making  a  well  in  the  center.  The  curry 
itself  should  then  be  placed  in  the  middle,  and  the 
whole  eaten  with  a  fork.  The  rice  should  be  so 
boiled  that  every  grain  is  not  only  tender,  but  separ- 
ated from  every  other  grain."— "A  spoonful  of  the 
cocoanut  kernel,  pounded,  gives  a  very  delicate  fla- 
vor to  a  curry  of  chicken." — "All  curries  are  the 
better  for  a  suspicion  of  a  sweet  aeid  taste.  The  juice 
of  a  lime,  with  moist  sugar  dissolved  in  it,  answers 
very  well,  or  a  tablespoonful  of  red-currant  jelly 
and  one  of  chutney,  or  a  tablespoonful  of  sweet 
chutney  and  the  juice  of  a  lime  or  lemon;  any  of 
these  combinations  will  give  the  desired  sub-acid 
flavoring."  How  TO  SERVE — "  Serve  the  curry  by 
itself  in  a  side  dish,  separate  from  the  rice.  On2 
tablespoonful  of  curry  ought  to  suffice  for  six  table- 
spoonfuls  of  rice,  and  should  be  partaken  of  with  a 
dessert-spoon  and  fork,  and  not  with  a  knife  and 
fork.  A  teaspoonful  of  Burmese  Mango  Chutney, 
taken  with  a  plateful  of  rice  and  curry  as  above, 
will  be  found  very  acceptable  by  most  persons.  Rice 
and  currv  should  not  be  made  a  principal  dish  at 
dinner:  its  true  place  on  the  menu  is,  without  doubt, 
a  final  entree." — "NABOB  CuRRY-Consists  of  small 
pieces  of  minced  meat,  which  are  rolled  into  balls 
about  the  size  of  a  marble.  These  marbles  are  then 
floured  and  fried  (if  possible  in  the  curry  fat)  and 
sent  to  table  with  the  curry  sauce  poured  round 
them.  SYKABOB  CURRY — Consists  of  slices  of  meat, 


THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


301 


CUR 

potato,  onion  and  green  ginger,  stuck  on  a  skewer. 
These  are  served  up  in  the  curry,  thus  skewered  to- 
gether. One  of  the  most  delicious  curYies  known  is 
the  CINGALESE  PRAWN  CURRY — This  dish  can  be 
made  either  from  fresh  prawns  or  from  canned  or 
potted  ones,  which  are  cheaper,  but  not  so  good. 
The  Barataria  prawns  are  the  best  kind  canned. 
In  making  curry  from  fresh  prawns,  the  white  meat 
of  the  prawn  is  served  up  in  the  curry  sauce,  but  be 
sure  and  take  all  the  heads  off  the  prawns  and 
pound  them  in  the  curry  sauce,  so  as  to  extract 
wlr,u  may  be  called  the  goodness  out  of  the  head — 
the  little  lumps  which  correspond  to  the  green  part 
of  a  lobster.  VEGETABLE  CURRY — Is  exceedingly 
nice,  and  is  not  so  often  met  with  in  this  country  as 
it  deserves.  Every  kind  of  vegetable  can  be  used 
mixed  together,  and  a  very  nice  simple  dish  can  be 
made  by  merely  opening  a  tin  of  macedoins.  CUR- 
RIED SAUSAGES — Form  a  very  nice  breakfast  dish, 
which  simply  consists  in  pouring  curry  sauce  over 
some  fried  sausages.  CURRIED  SARDINES,  OR  PIL- 
CHARDS— Form  an  excellent  breakfast  dish. 

CURRANTS— Zante  Currants;  a  kind  of  small 
raisins  used  in  fruit  cake  and  puddings.  The  largest 
and  cleanest  are  the  most  economical  to  buy,  as  the 
inferior  grades  are  little  else  but  dirt  and  stems.  To 
clean  currants,  they  should  be  washed  in  a  perfor- 
ated colander,  set  in  a  pan  of  water,  and  stirred 
around  that  the  trash  may  fall  through  the  holes. 

CURRANTS  —  Garden  Currants  are  of  three 
kinds  and  several  varieties;  the  red  and  white  are 
nearly  alike  and  are  used  for  the  table  and  for  cook- 
ing and  making  currant  jelly;  the  black  currant  is 
d  istinct  in  flavor  and  used  to  a  limited  extent  as  a  pie 
*ruit  and  for  wine.  These  currants  only  reach  per- 
fection in  a  moist  and  cold  climate.  GREEN  CUR- 
RANT PUDDING  —  Currants  before  they  are  ripe 
picked  from  stems,  filled  into  a  bowl  lined  with 
short  paste,  well  sugared,  covered  with  a  paste  top; 
tied  down  in  a  cloth;  boiled  an  hour  or  more.  RED- 
CURRANT  JELLY — Is  made  by  boiling  i  pint  ex- 
pressed pulp  and  juice  with  i  Ib.  sugar.  CURRANT 
LIQUEUR — A  cordial;  made  of  2  Ibs.  red  currants,  2 
qts.  whisky,  thin  rind  of  4  lemons,  ^  oz.  ground 
ginger;  let  stand  48  hours,  then  strained  through 
flannel  jelly  bag;  to  each  quait  i  Ib.  sugar  dissolved 
and  boiled  to  syrup;  well  mixed;  then  bottled.  ICED 
CURRANTS — Ripe  currants  sugared  over  or  frosted 
by  dipping  in  white  of  egg  beaten  with  little  water; 
then  rolling  in  powdered  sugar  and  drying  for  the 
table.  Other  uses  for  pies,  ices,  etc.,  same  as  other 
fruits. 

CUSSY  (tie) — A  name  often  met  with  in  relation 
to  gastronomical  subjects.  "The  Marquis  de  Cussy 
was  a  notable  man  enough  in  his  day.  It  was  he 
who  was  escorting  the  Empress  Marie  Louise  back 
to  Vienna  when  at  Parma  he  heard  of  Xapoleon's 
escape  from  Elba.  Planting  her  there,  he  retraced 
his  steps  immediately  and  found  his  master  back  at 
the  Tuileries,  where  he  himself  was  an  excellent 


cus 

prefect  of  the  palace;  but,  the  Hundred  Days  once 
over,  he  found  himself  suddenly  a  pauper,  having 
always  managed  to  combine  indifference  to  his  own 
interests  with  lavishness  to  others.  This  and  his 
charms  of  manner  made  him  popular,  and  he  pos- 
sessed that  first  talent  of  a  born  conversationist — a 
lending  ear.  But  he  was  a  born  gourmet,  too,  and 
fully  acted  up  to  Colnet's  line :  '  Quand  on  donne 
a  diner,  on  a  toujours  raison.'  Great  cooks  struggled 
for  his  kitchen,  and  stayed  with  him  seven  years. 
He  gave  a  dinner  once  a  week,  never  to  more  than 
eleven  guests,  and  it  lasted  two  hours.  He  cites 
with  approval  in  his  'Art  Culinaire'  one  of  the 
stories  about  that  very  unpleasant  person  Diogenes, 
who,  seeing  a  child  eating  too  fast,  fetched  the  boy's 
tutor  a  rousing  cuff.  De  Cussy's  own  rigid  rule 
was  to  eat  moderately  and  to  sip  his  liquors;  and 
he  preached  putting  down  the  knife  and  fork  while 
still  hungry,  and  then  taking  several  glasses  of  an 
old  wine,  munching  crisp  breadcrust  the  while. 
Perhaps  these  wert  some  of  the  reasons  why  the 
camel  never  refused,  and  explained  his  'easily  di- 
gesting a  whole  red-legged  partridge '  on  the  very 
day  of  his  death,  at  the  age  of  seventy-four.  Many 
a  well  -advised  man  nowadays  would  as  soon  eat 
Tom  Jones'  Partridge  body  and  bones;  and  there 
have  been  what  a  vain  world  calls  nobler  deaths,  to 
be  sure,  and  different  illustrations  of  Hamlet's  grave 
dictum  that  '  the  readiness  is  all; '  still  we  need  not 
be  too  exclusive.  This  particular  gourmet  had  the 
smooth-skinned,  pink  complexion  of  many  an  old- 
fashioned  London  merchant — in  the  daytime,  that  is; 
but  a  clever  caricature  of  him  by  Dantan,  which 
displays  the  bust  of  a  heavy-chopped,  bloated  old 
gormandizer,  with  a  great  Yorkshire  pie  for  ped- 
estal, must  also  ^ave  been  too  near  the  truth,  per- 
haps, after  dinner;  for  one  of  his  sayings  to  Brillat- 
Savarin,  who  would  have  mirrors  in  his  dining 
room,  was  that  a  man  should  only  look  in  the  glass 
fasting.  After  this  it  would  be  of  no  use  at  all  his 
telling  us  that  he  could  take  up  his  pen  immediately 
after  dinner  in  full  possession  of  his  ideas,  if  we  did 
not  know  from  his  sorry  writings  that  he  could  not 
tack  two  ideas  together,  and  that,  whatever  his 
practice  was,  his  theories  about  cookery  were  not 
worth  the  charcoal  for  testing  them."  De  Cussy  is 
quoted  nowadays  occasionally,  because  he  did  write 
of  L 'Art  Culinaire ,  and  of  Car6me,  and  of  his 
contemporary  gourmets  and  entertainers.  "  M.  de 
Cussy,  who,  when  young,  had  been  patronized  by 
Marie  Antoinette,  and  who  in  later  years  was  about 
the  court  of  Marie  Louise,  failed  to  obtain  a  small 
place  under  Louis  XVIII  till  the  discriminating 
monarch  was  told  that  the  mixture  of  strawberries, 
cream,  and  champagne,  which  possesses  such  a  re- 
fined flavor,  was  the  creation  of  the  aged  gastro- 
nome." CONSOMME  A  LA  CUSSY  —  Game  broth; 
royale  custards  made  with  10  yolks,  2  eggs,  I  pint 
puree  of  game  and  little  cream;  game  meat,  mush- 
rooms and  boiled  chestnuts  served  with  it. 
CUSTARD— A  mixture  of  milk  and  eggs,  cooked 


802 


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CUT 

only  to  boiling-  point,  generally  with  sugar  and  fla- 
vorings added.  The  standard  rule  is  S  eggs  to  t 
qt.  milk  and  6  oz.  sugar;  but  custard  is  made  with  4 
eggs  to  a  quart,  also  with  S  yolks  only;  also  with  2 
or  3  eggs  and  flour  or  starch  to  substitute  the  re- 
mainder. Custard,  whether  boiled,  steamed  or 
baked,  is  thickest  and  perfect  only  when  it  reaches 
the  boiling  point;  with  longer  cooking  it  turns  thin 
and  separates  into  curd  and  water.  CUSTARD  PUD- 
DING— Firm  enough  to  turn  out  of  mould;  made  of 
i  pint  milk,  boiled  with  stick  cinnamon  and  grated 
lemon  rind,  cooled,  mixed  with  3  yolks  and  5  whole 
eggs  well  whipped,  and  sugar.  Steamed  in  mould 
till  set.  CUSTARD  FLAVORINGS— Orange  flower 
water,  orange  extract,  lemon,  vanilla  and  rose,  bay 
leaf,  nutmeg,  cinnamon,  almond.  CUSTARD  PIE — 
Plate  lined  with  short- paste,  filled  to  the  brim  with 
raw  custard,  baked  till  set.  CUP  CUSTARDS — Boiled 
custard,  made  by  pouring  boiling  milk,  sweetened, 
to  whipped  eggs,  or  eggs  and  starch,  and 
cooking  only  till  about  to  boil  again;  filled  into 
custard  cups.  CHOCOLATE  CUSTARD  MERINGUES— 
Boiled  custard  with  i  oz.  chocolate  in  each  quart, 
filled  in  cups,  whipped  whites  and  sugar  on  top 
lightly  browned.  CUSTARD  PUDDING— Plain  cus- 
tard baked  in  a  pudding  dish.  COCOANUT  CUSTARD 
— Cocoanut  mixed  in  raw  custard  to  bake  or  in  the 
hot  milk  for  boiled  custards.  CUSTARD  ROLY-POLY 
— Custard  made  firm  with  12  eggs,  steamed,  then 
sliced  on  a  thin  sheet  of  paste;  strawberry  jam 
spread  upon  the  custard,  all  very  thin,  rolled  up  in 
a  pudding  cloth,  steamed  ij^  hours;  served  with 
sauce. 

CUTLETS — Chops,  meaning  the  rib  bone  chops, 
veal  steaks  are,  however,  called  cutlets.  There  are 
cutlets  proper  of  lamb,  mutton,  pork,  venison,  veal, 
but  not  of  beef;  the  cutlets  of  beef  are  called  entre- 
coles,  steaks  and  collops  or  scollops;  cutlets  of 
small  meats,  lobster,  and  such  things  are  imitations 
of  the  shape  of  cutlets.— {See  Cotelettes.} 

CUTTLE  FISH— The  octopus,  or  devil-fish. 
"  Next  to  whales,  probably  the  most  bulkv  animals 
in  the  sea  are  the  gigantic  cuttle-fishes,  with  which 
we  have  recently  become  acquainted.  Of  the  largest 
of  these  the  body  would  be  quite  equal  to  an  ele- 
phant. They  are  not  seen  often  enough  to  enter  a 
list  even  of  extraordinary  foods;  but  smaller  cuttle- 
fishes are  beloved  of  many  men,  especially  by  Itali- 
ans; and  in  the  sea-shore  markets  near  Naples  yon 
may  find  tubs  full  of  writhing  octopods  exposed  for 
sale.  When  a  purchaser  arrives  and  makes  a  selec- 
tion the  vender  adroitly  seizes  the  fish  by  the  back 
of  the  neck,  the  arms  twisting  and  extending  in  all 
directions.  It  is  dropped  into  the  scales,  and  if  ap- 
proved of  the  salesman  gives  it  a  twist,  almost  turn- 
ing it  inside  out,  killing  or  disabling  it  in  a  moment. 
To  see  a  mess  of  chopped  full-grown  octopus  served 
with  tomato  sauce  is  really  trying,  When  very  small 
the  octopus  is  used  as  a  garnish  for  fish,  and  \v  hen 
fried  crisp  it  might  be  mistaken  formacaroni.  Neapo- 
litans come  properly  by  their  taste  for  the  cuttle,  since 


DAR 

the  Latins  ate  it,  and  have  handed  down  a  recipe  for 
a  cephalopod  sausage.  Pickled,  vou  may  find  cut- 
tle-fish arms,  suckers  and  all,  among  our  fancy  gro- 
ceries; and  in  San  Francisco  you  may  buy  tons  of 
preserved  cuttles.  These  are  a  Chinese  preparation 
of  the  squid.  It  is  split  open,  cleaned,  spread  out 
flat,  and  dried  and  then  resembles  a  Cape  Ann  cod- 
fish slitted  into  shreds  at  the  broad  end.  Boiled  and 
mixed  with  seasoned  herbs,  a  popular  soup  or  por- 
ridge results,  the  taste  of  which  is  mildly  that  of 
lobster  broth." 

CYGNET— Young  swan.     (See  Swan.) 

CYMLING— Summer  squash. 

D. 

DAB — A  small  flat  fish  found  near  the  mouths  of 
rivers;  good  to  fry  or  broil. 

DAIM  (Fr.)— Deer;  fallow  deer.  COTELETTES 
DE  DAIM — Venison  cutlets.  CUISSOT  DE  DAIM— 

:  Leg  of  venison. 

j      DAMSON— A  black  plum  of  high  flavor;  much 

i  esteemed  for  cooking  purposes.     Name  from  Da- 

!  mascus,  whence  it  came.  Formerly  called  the  Da- 
mascene plum.  A  very  similar  plum  grows  wild 
in  some  parts  of  the  southern  states.  DAMSON 

i  CHEESE — Pulp  of  steamed  damsons  passed  through 
a  seive,  %  Ib.  sugar  to  each  quart  of  pulp,  dried 

,  down  by  slow  boiling  and   stirring  till   it  makes 

I  damson  butter  stiff  enough  to  be  cut  in  pieces  when 
cold.  Served  for  dessert,  and  to  be  dissolved  for 
tarts  and  cakes  as  wanted.  PAIN  DE  PRUNES  DE 
DAMAS — A  mould  of  damson  cheese,  or  of  marma- 
lade diluted  and  set  with  gelatine. 

DAMP  CELLARS— If  the  air  of  the  cellar  be 
damp,  it  can  be  thoroughly  dried  by  placing  in  it  a 
peck  of  fresh  lime  in  an  open  box.  A  peck  of  lime 
will  absorb  7  Ibs.,  or  more  than  3  qt.  of  water,  and 
in  this  way  a  cellar  or  store-room  may  soon  be  dried. 
DANDELION— The  well-known  plant  with 
vellow  flowers  which  change  to  thistle-down.  The 
leaves  gathered  young  are  among  the  best  of  early 
greens;  cooked  the  same  as  spinach,  with  a  pinch  of 

i  soda  in  the  water,  drained,  chopped  and  seasoned. 
DANDELION  SALAD — The  young  leaves  are  eaten  in 
salad  in  place  of  endive  or  lettuce.  DANDELION 

i  WINE — A  simple  sort  of  domestic  wine  made  of  the 
petals  of  the  dandelion  flower  and  sugar.  DANDE- 
LION COFFEE — The  root  has  been  mixed  with  coffee 
during  the  past  25  years,  and  sold  as  "dandelion 
coffee,"  a  hygienic  beverage. 

DANTZIC  GOLD  JELLY— Jelly  having  gold 
leaf  carefully  mixed  in  it  to  make  it  sparkle;  flavored 
with  Duntzic tfold-uasfer. 

DARIOLE  MOULDS— Tin  or  copper  moulds  of 
about  the  size  and  shape  of  a  common  small  glass 
tumbler.  They  are  either  plain  or  fluted,  with  or 
without  a  pattern  stamped  in  the  bottom.  The  name 

1  is  rarely  used  in  this  country,  but  the  moulds  are  in 
use  everywhere  as  charlotte  russe  moulds  of  indi- 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


303 


DAR 

vidual  size,  and  are  used  for  small  steamed  pud- 
dings and  for  blanc  mange  and  jelly. 

DARIOLES  — Almost  anything  that  is  made 
shaped,  steamed,  baked  or  moulded  in  a  dariole 
mould  is  called  a  dariole.  Deep  patties  of  a  pastry 
crust  filled  with  some  kind  of  custard  or  stiff  cream, 
flavored  either  with  vanilla  or  chocolate  seems  to 
have  been  the  original  sort  of  dariole,  which  is  not 
as  rich  as  a  cheese  cake,  but  nearly  the  same  thing. 

DARNE  (Fr.)— A  thick  cut  of  salmon  or  stur- 
geon. DARNE  D'ESTURGEON  AU  FOUR — A  thick 
slice  of  sturgeon  baked. 

DATE — Fruit  of  the  date  palm.  DATE  PIE — 
Made  like  squash  pie;  i  qt.  milk,  2  Ib.  dates,  3  eggs; 
the  dates  boiled  in  the  milk  and  rubbed  through 
strainer.  DATES  FOR  DESSERT — The  stone  removed 
and  a  blanched  almond  put  in  its  place.  DATE 
CREAM — Sugared  dates;  a  candy  bon-bon. 

DAUPHINES— Tartlets;  patty  pans  lined  with 
paste,  preserve  or  jam  first;  custard  on  top;  baked 
and  then  meringued  like  a  lemon  pie. 

DECORATION— "  A  few  days  ago  I  saw  a 
beautiful  exception,  which  combined  simplicity 
with  grace  and  artistic  effect:  it  was  a  ham  glazed 
in  the  usual  manner,  but  decorated  only  with  a  large 
spray  of  imitation  lilies  of  the  valley;  the  stems 
and  the  leaves  were  cut  from  cucumber-peel,  and 
the  little  flowers  simulated  by  cutting  thin  slices  of 
boiled  white  of  egg  to  shape.  It  wi.l  be  easily 
understood  that  the  thinly  cut  cucumber- peel  lends 
itself  very  kindly  to  the  subject;  the  jright  green 
color,  the  fine  stems  bowed  with  the  weight  of  the 
flowers,  and  the  leaves  raised  and  twisted  into  nat- 
ural positions,  would  satisfy  a  culinary  Oscar 
Wilde.  The  idea  can  be  easily  extended:  with  the 
yolk  and  the  white  of  an  egg,  heat  together  and 
steamed  into  an  extra  firm  a  la  royale  custard,  prim- 
roses can  be  imitated.  Fuchsias  can  be  done  easily 
by  cutting  them  from  long  radishes,  and  lemon-peel 
might  be  persuaded  to  turn  itself  into  a  flower  of 
fancy;  in  all  cases,  the  stems  and  leaves  appropri- 
ately cut  in  cucumber- peel." 

DELMONICO  PUDDING— A  corn-starch  me- 
ringue, made  of  i  qt.  milk,  4  oz.  starch,  4  oz.  sugar, 
5  yolks,  i  oz.  butter,  little  salt;  made  up  same  as  a 
lightly  cooked  custard;  poured  in  baking  dish;  mar- 
malade spread  over;  meringued  with  the  whites; 
baked. 

DEMI-GLACE  SAUCE— The  brown  coating  of 
the  pan,  which  is  the  gravy-drippings  from  baked 
meat,  freed  from  the  grease,  dissolved  with  broth 
thickened  transparently  with  starch  and  strained. 
It  is  the  meat  gravy  served  with  it;  becomes  a  clear 
brown  by  slow  boiling. 

DEVIL-FISH— (See  cuttle-fish.}  "The  devil-fish 
is  said  to  be  rapidly  multiplying  in  the  waters  of 
San  Francisco  bay.  One  of  the  fearful  creatures 
was  exhibited  in  the  San  Francisco  markets  a  few 
days  ago  and  attracted  many  visitors.  The  fish  was 
about  9  feet  in  length  and  presented  a  most  repulsive 


DIA 

sight.  Notwithstanding  the  latter  fact,  one  of  the 
tentacles  was  sold  to  an  Italian  for  food  before  the 
monster  had  been  on  exhibition  'over  an  hour.  The 
sons  of  Italy  prize  the  tentacles  most  highly,  the  or- 
dinary mode  of  eating  them  being  to  fry  them  or  boil 
them  in  oil." 

DEVILLED  MEATS— Broiled  or  grilled  meats 
variously  sauced.  DEVILLED  KIDNEYS  — Broiled 
kidneys  with  salt  and  cayenne.  DEVILLED  HAM — 
Broiled  slices  of  ham  with  a  sauce  of  mustard,  pep- 
per and  chopped  pickles.  DEVILLED  BONES— Spare- 
ribs  or  chops  with  Robert  sauce.  DEVILLED  LOB- 
STER— Lobster  split  lengthwise  and  broiled  in  the 
shell ;  served  with  devil  sauce.  A  DRY  DEVIL — Leg 
of  turkey  or  any  kind  of  meat  peppered  and  salted, 
coated  over  with  made  mustard,  and  broiled.  A 
WET  DEVIL— Leg  of  roast  turkey,  with  cuts  in  it, 
seasoned  with  mustard,  pepper  and  salt;  broiled; 
served  with  devil  sauce. 

DEVILLED  OYSTERS- Philadelphia  specialty. 
Same  plan  as  devilled  crabs;  the  oysters  chopped 
small,  drained,  put  into  thick  butter  sauce  with 
yolks  and  parsley,  salt,  cayenne;  baked  in  oyster- 
shells  with  bread-crumbs  on  top. 

DEVIL  SAUCE  —  (/)-Made  of  3  tablespoons 
each  butter  and  meat  gravy;  large  teaspoon  each 
cayenne  and  sugar;  i  glass  each  mushroom  catsup 
and  white  wine;  juice  of  i  lemon;  made  warm. 
(z)-Butter,  gravy,  Harvey's  sauce,  catsup,  Chili 
vinegar,  mustard,  glass  of  port,  juice  i  lemon,  cay- 
enne, black  pepper,  salt.  (j)-Chopped  shallots  fried 
in  butter,  2  ladles  espagnole,  i  of  broth,  2  table- 
spoons made  mustard,  Worcestershire  and  cayenne; 
strained. 

DEVONSHIRE  JUNKET  —  Devonshire,  the 
home  of  the  Devon  breed  of  cattle,  is  famous  for 
dairy  products  and  for  clotted  cream.  The  "junket" 
is  curd  and  cream:  i  qt.  milk,  i  tablespoon  sugar, 
vanilla  to  flavor,  a  little  rennet  or  rennet  powder 
added,  poured  into  a  glass  dish,  where  in  a  warm 
place  in  about  20  minutes  it  becomes  sweet  curd. 
Then  a  thin  layer  of  clotted  cream  is  spread  over  it. 
Eaten  with  strawberry  jam. 

DEVONSHIRE  SQUAB  PIE— A  pie  made  of 
mutton  chops  and  sliced  apples  in  alternate  layers, 
the  apples  on  bottom  first  with  sugar  and  spice, 
meat  on  them  with  salt_and  pepper;  little  water,  a 
top  crust  of  paste,  baked  \%  hours.  (See  squab.) 

DEVONSHIRE  CAKE— A  yeast-raised  cake; 
made  up  with  cream,  currants,  citron,  sugar,  saffron, 
baked  like  bread  in  tins. 

DEWBERRY— A  variety  of  blackberry  which 
grows  prostrate  upon  the  ground;  ripens  early,  well 
flavored,  superior  pie  fruit. 

DEXTRINE— British  gum,  obtained  by  boiling: 
starch,  which  changes  with  heat  into  gum.  Used 
for  making  various  kinds  of  gum  drops,  fig  pastes, 
''Turkish  delight,"  etc. 

DIABLOTINS  AU  GRUYERE -Paste    made 


304 


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DIA 

like  cheese  straws  with  eggs  added,  formed  in  little 
balls,  floured,  fried. 

DIABLE  SAUCE— Devil  sauce. 

DIN  DON  (Fr.V— Turkey.  DINDE— Hen  turkey. 
DINDONNEAU— Young  turkey.  DINDONNEAU  A  LA 
DUCHESSE— Young  turkey  roasted,  served  with  a 
ragout  of  pieces  of  tongue,  quenelles,  green  beans 
and  cucumber.  DINDON  TRUFFE— Breast  of  chick- 
en, goose  liver,  bacon  and  truffles  are  chopped, 
seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  bay  leaf,  simmered 
in  stock;  2  doz.  whole  truffles  added,  stewed  half  an 
hour,  with  constant  stirring.  Turkey  stuffed  with 
it,  sewed  up,  hung  4  days,  covered  with  slices  of  ba- 
con and  buttered  paper  and  roasted.  Truffles  in  the 
sauce. 

DIPLOMATfC  PUDDING— </)-A  creme  in  a 
decorated  casing  of  jelly,  made  of  a  yolk-of-egg 
custard  with  sugar,  gelatine  and  cream  mixed  in, 
flavored  with  brandy  and  vanilla.  A  plain  mould 
is  coated  with  wine  jelly  by  turning  it  about  in  ice, 
decorated  with  candied  fruit,  the  custard  creme 
poured  in;  solidified  on  ice,  turned  out  on  a  folded 
napkin.  (a)-A  creme  without  jelly  casing  made  of 
a  yolk-of-egg  custard  with  gelatine,  sugar  and 
cream;  a  mould  in  ice  decorated  with  fruit  dipped  in 
jelly;  a  layer  of  creme  poured  in;  on  top  of  that  a 
layer  of  sliced  sponge  cake  dipped  in  maraschino, 
then  candied  fruits,  then  cream  etc.  Set  solid  on  ice. 

DIPLOMATS  SAUCE— (/)-Another  name  for 
cardinal  sauce,  made  of  Bechamel  sauce  with  lob- 
ster coral  or  lobster  butter  reddened,  anchovy  es- 
sence, cayenne  bits  of  butter,  all  well  whisked, 
served  with  fish,  hot.  (2)-It  is  Bechamel  sauce 
flavored  with  crayfish  and  crayfish  butter. 

DIP  SAUCE — Sweet  diplomate;  a  pink  sugar- 
and-starch  sauce,  thick,  clear;  any  flavor. 

DOG-FISH— "Dog-fish  is  not  bad,  salted.  It  is 
sometimes  called  'Folkestonte  beef,"  and  is  much 
eaten  in  Lancashire." 

DOMBEY  PUDDING— Delicate  sort  of  plum 
pudding,  steamed  or  baked;  made  of  J£  pt.  cream, 
4  oz.  sugar,  rind  of  i  lemon,  made  hot  in  saucepan 
and  6  tablespoons  bread-crumbs,  i  spoon  flour,  3  of 
suet,  i  marrow.  Boiled  and  stirred  to  paste,  then 
mixed  with  2  oz.  each  of  currants,  candied  orange 
peel,  sultana  raisins,  4  eggs,  little  nutmeg,  i  glass 
each  wine  and  rum;  served  with  orange  sauce  con- 
taining rum. 

DORY— A  fish.     (See  John  Dory.) 

DOUCETTE  (Fr.)— Corn  salad;  a  kind  of  cress. 

DOUGHNUTS— Fried  cakes;  pieces  of  sweet- 
ened bread  dough  in  ring  or  twisted  shapes  allowed 
to  rise,  then  dropped  in  hot  lard  and  fried  light 
brown.  BAKING  POWDER  DOUGHNUTS — i  qt.  flour, 
i  small  cup  sugar,  lard  size  of  an  egg,  2  tablespoons 
baking  powder,  2  cups  water  or  milk.  Rolled  out, 
cut  in  shapes,  fried,  sugared  over  when  done. 

DOUGH-MIXERS— There  are  machines    made 


DRI 

to  do  the  heavy  work  of  mixing  dough   in  large 
quantities. 

DOUGH  TROUGH— A  long  wooden  box  about 
18  inches  deep  and  raised  6  inches  fiom  the  floor, 
made  with  flaring  sides  and  a  moveable  partition. 
Used  by  all  bread  makers  and  needed  in  all  hotels 
to  mix  up  bread  dough  in.  The  lid  should  be  in 
two  halves,  not  hinged,  but  removable  that  half 
may  be  used  at  once  as  a  table. 

DOUGH-RAISERS— Various  contrivances,  the 
subject  of  many  patents,  for  keeping  bread-dough 
at  as  nearly  as  possible  a  temperature  of  So  degrees 
while  rising,  that  the  fermentation  may  be  perfect; 
especially  needed  in  cold  weather.  Where  houses 
are  steam-heated  a  closet  is  made  for  this  purpose. 
A  home-made  contrivance  is  a  barrel  with  a  pail  of 
hot  water  set  in  it,  the  pan  of  dough  set  in  the  bar- 
rel above  it,  and  a  blanket  over  all. 

DOVER  BISCUITS— Made  of  6  oz.  each  sugar 
and  butter,  2  eggs,  12  oz.  flour.  Like  cookies. 

DRAWN  BUTTER— English  name  for  butter 
sauce;  made  bv  stirring  equal  measures  of  butter  and 
flour  together  over  the  fire,  adding  boiling  water 
sufficient,  and  beating  in  more  butter  at  last. 

DRESDEN  PATTIES  —  Croustades  made  like 
patties,  the  inside  of  the  rounds  of  fried  bread  to  be 
removed  and  a  filling  of  any  kind  put  in. 

DRINKS — Stewards  and  caterers  have  to  provide 
for  parties:  ALE  CUP  — Made  of  2  qts.  ale,  i  pt.  gin, 
3  oz.  brown  sugar,  3  yolks,  ground  ginger,  cinna 
mon,  nutmeg,  yolks,  etc.;  beaten;  hot  ale  poured  in. 
MULLED  CLARET — Two  bottles  claret,  4  oz.  sugar, 
rind  2  lemons,  6  cloves,  4  inches  cinnamon,  i  glass 
brandy;  spices  and  sugar  boiled  in  little  water;  claret 
added  and  made  hot;  brandy  in  at  last.  TOM  AND 
JERRY — Five  pounds  sugar,  12  eggs,  \y,  teaspoons 
ground  cinnamon,  %  teaspoon  each  cloves  and  all- 
spice, J£  glass  rum;  eggs  separated  and  beaten, 
mixed  again;  rum,  spice  and  sugar  added;  served  by 
taking  i  tablespoon  of  the  mixture,  adding  i  wine- 
glass of  brandy,  and  filling  up  the  glass  with  boiling 
water.  FANNY'S  DELIGHT — Four  ounces  sugar  in 

1  pt.  boiling  water,  with  4  cloves,  %  oz.  cinnamon 
and  J^  oz.  ginger;  strained;  added  to  2  yolks;  beaten 
up,  and   i  glass  raisin-wine,   I  glass  ginger-wine 
added.    EGG  FLIP — Four  eggs,  with  2  of  the  whites 
omitted,  beaten  up  with  2  tablespoons  sugar,  I  pint 
boiling  water  added  by  slow  degrees,  2  wine-glasses 
brandy,   i  wine-glass  rum.    WASSAIL  BOWL — One 
quart  hot  ale;  nutmeg,  ginger,  cinnamon,  J^  oz.  each; 
%  bottle  sherry,  2  slices  toast,  2  roasted  apples,  i 
lemon;  sugar  to  taste.     GABE  CASE  PUNCH— Three 
bitter  Seville  oranges,  roasted  to  a  pale  brown  color, 
laid  in  a  heated  vessel,  i  Ib.  sugar  pressed  with  them, 

2  bottles  warm  Burgundy,  i  pint  hot  water.     LANG- 
TRY  PUNCH — One  orange  stuck  full  of  cloves  and 
roasted  before  the  fire,  cut  in  quarters,  i  quart  hot 
port  wine  poured  over  it,  sugar  to  taste;  simmered 
half  an  hour.    A  REVIVER— Two  yolks  in  a  goblet, 
with  i  oz.  honey,  little  essence  of  cloves,  liqueur- 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


305 


DRI 

glass  of  curafao,  i  pt.  hot  Burgundy;  whisked  to- 
gether; served  hot  in  glasses.  COLD  MILK  PUNCH— 
Half  pint  tumbler  filled  with  chipped  ice,  i  teaspoon 
sugar,  i  wine-glass  brandy,  i  liqueur-glass  rum; 
filled  up  with  milk;  shaken;  straws.  MINT  JULEP— 
Large  glass,  i  teaspoon  sugar,  little  water,  3  sprigs 
mint;  all  pressed  together;  mint  taken  out,  %  wine- 
glass brandy,  yz  liqueur-glass  rum,  ditto  yellow 
chartreuse;  filled  up  with  ice;  shaken;  then  topped 
with  fruit  and  mint,  dash  of  claret  and  sugar  to  fin- 
ish; straws.  JOHN  COLLINS— Half  pint  tumbler 
filled  with  chipped  ice,  i  teaspoon  sugar,  juice  of  J^ 
lemon,  %  wine-glass  gin;  filled  up  with  soda  water; 
straws.  LEMON  SQUASH— Large  glass  filled  with 
chipped  ice,  juice  of  i  lemon,  \%  teaspoons  sugar; 
filled  up  with  soda;  stirred;  fruit  on  top,  straws. 
SODA  COCKTAIL— Large  glass  half  filled  with  ice,  % 
teaspoon  Angostura,  %  teaspoon  sugar;  filled  up 
with  soda;  lemon-peel  on  top;  straws.  CLARET 
PUNCH— Half  pint  tumbler  filled  with  chipped  ice, 
juice  of  %  lemon,  I  teaspoon  sugar,  i  teaspoon 
raspberry  syrup,  claret  to  fill  up;  shaken;  ripe  fruit 
on  top;  straws.  GIN  SLING— Half  pint  tumbler 
filled  with  ice,  i  lemon-glass  plain  syrup;  juice  of 
yz  lemon,  y2  glass  gin;  filled  up  with  soda;  slices 
lemon  and  orange  on  top;  straws.  GIN  COCKTAIL — 
Tumbler  filled  with  chipped  ice,  few  drops  Angos- 
tura and  plain  syrup,  y,  wine-glass  gin;  stirred 
well;  slrained  off  into  cocktail  glass;  piece  lemon  on 
top.  GIN  SOUR — Tumbler  filled  with  ice,  y2  tea- 
spoon sugar,  i  teaspoon  raspberry  syrup,  juice  yz 
lemon,  }4  wine-glass  gin;  strained  into  cocktail 
glass,  lemon-slice  on  top.  EGG  XOGG  ICED — Tum- 
bler filled  with  chipped  ice,  i  raw  egg,  i  teaspoon 
sugar,  i  liqueur-glass  brandy,  i  do.  rum;  shaken 
well;  strained  off  into  pony  tumbler;  nutmeg  on  top. 
SAM  WARD — Tumbler  filled  with  chipped  ice,  3  or  4 
drops  Angostura,  i  liqueur-glass  green  chartreuse; 
shaken  well;  strained  into  cocktail  glass.  CORPSE 
REVIVER  —  A  long,  thin  liqueur-glass  filled  with 
equal  portions  noyeau,  maraschino  and  yellow 
chartreuse,  one  on  top  of  the  other  without  mixing 
them;  to  be  taken  off  at  one  draught.  PRAIRIE 
OYSTER  —  A  wine-glass  with  yz  teaspoon  vin- 
egar, i  new-laid  egg,  little  salt,  pepper  and  dash 
of  Worcestershire  sauce;  to  be  drunk  off  raw. — 
GIN  PUNCH— "At  the  Garrick  Club  they  serve  an 
excellent  gin  punch,  which,  according  to  Mr.  Percy 
Fitzgerald,  is  'brewed'  as  follows:  Pour  half  a  pint 
of  gin  on  the  outer  peel  of  a  lemon,  then  a  little 
lemon  juice,  sugar,  a  glass  of  maraschino,  about  a 
pint  and  a  quarter  of  water,  and  two  bottles  of  iced 
soda-water;  this  makes  three  pints."  ABSINTHE — 
The  proper  way  to  serve  absinthe  au  sucrc  is  thus: 
Put  two  lumps  of  sugar  in  a  strainer  which  just  fits 
the  top  of  the  glass,  and  let  the  absinthe  trickle 
slowly  through;  the  water  is  added  afterwards. 
TIGER'S  MILK — An  Kast  Indian  morning  draught, 
not  generally  known.  Add  the  beaten  yolks  of  3 
eggs  to  2  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  white  sugar, 
3  cloves,  the  rind  of  %  lemon,  and  y2  pt.  of  Impe- 


DRI 

rial  Crown  brandy ;  pour  over  it  i  qt.  of  new,  warm 
milk,  stirring  rapidly,  and  serve  immediately.  This 
is  recommended  lor  those  wriotive  in  malarial  dis- 
tricts, and  for  delicate  persons  before  breathing  the 
crisp  air  of  autumn  or  winter.  A  wineglassful 
will  be  sufficient  in  this  climate.  SAUTERNE  Cur — 

1  bottle  sauterne,  2  sliced  peaches,  i  liqueur  glass 
noyeau,  juice  of  i  lemon,  ice,  leaves  of  balm  and 
borage,    i    bottle  soda-water.      BURGUNDY    CUP — 

2  bottles  red  Burgundy,  i  pt.   port,   i  gill  cherry 
brandy,  juice  of  2  oranges  and  i  lemon,  a  slice  of 
cucumber,  sprig  of  verbena,   sugar,  ice,  3  bottles 
seltzer -water.     CHAMPAGNE   CUP — i  bottle  cham- 
pagne, i  liqueur  glass  curacao,  same  of  pale  brandy, 
sprig  of  verbena,  slice  of  cucumber,  ice,  2  bottles 
soda.    CLARET  CUP  — (/)  i  bottle  claret,  i  pt.  sherry, 
i  gill  port,  do.  cherry  brandy,  i  lemon,  sugar,  cu- 
cumber thin  slice,   verbena,   ice,  3  bottles  seltzer 
water.     (aVOne  bottle  light  claret,  i  glass  brandy,  i 
lemon  peeled  thin,  yz  pt.  water,  sugar,  sprig  of  bor- 
age,  some  slices  of  cucumber;  in  jug  well  iced. 
BRANDY  CHAMPERELLE—  One  wine-glass  each  cu- 
racao, brandy  and  bitters,  with  shaved  ice.     PORT 
XEGUS — One  bottle  port,  peel  of  i  lemon,  2  crushed 
cloves,  grated  nutmeg,  sugar  to  taste,  i  qt.  boiling 
water.     CHAMPAGNE  COCKTAIL — A  large  lemonade 
glass  half  filled  with  shaved  ice,  2  drops  each  orange, 
lemon  and  gentian  essences;  i  tablespoon  each  or- 
ange-flower water  and  syrup;  well  shaken;  i  glass 
champagne  added.   JERSEY  COCKTAIL — Large  glass 
with  ice,   essences,   syrup    and    champagne  cider. 
BRIDAL  BOQUET  CUP — Two  quarts  thin,  clear  syrup, 
y2  pt.  orange-flower  water,   i  pt.  lime  juice,  i  table- 
spoon noyeau;  served  y2  glass  of  this  mixture  with 
iced  soda  and  y2  glass  champagne.    LIQUEUR  Eus- 
TACHE— Large  glass  half  filled   with  ice,  2  table- 
spoons syrup,  rind  of  a  lemon  tied  in  a  knot,  juice  of 
y,  lemon,  i  liqueur-glass  cognac,  J^  glass  absinthe; 
filled   up  with  soda;   stirred.      BRITISH    LION — A 
liqueur-glass  Scotch    whisky,    i    tablespoon    each 
cherry-syrup,  lime  juice  and  bay  rum,  peel  of  J^ 
lemon  in  glass  filled  up  with  boiling  water.     CIN- 
DERELLA CUP — One  bottle  raisin  or  angelica  wine, 
y±  pt.  strong  syrup  mixed  in  a  bowl,  i  qt.  lemonade, 
ice,  sprigs  of  scented  verbena.   LIQUEUR  SUPREME- 
y±  pt.  each  maraschino,  kirschwasser  and  curacao, 
%  pt.  strong  syrup,  i  bottle  brandy,  or  champagne. 
CASK  GINGERADE — In  a  lo-gal.  keg:  9  gal.  syrup   i 
pt.  essence  ginger,  J£  pt.  essence  lemon,  i  oz.  yeast, 
i  oz.  isinglass;  bunged  up  with  cotton  3  days;  then 
corked  tight,  or  bottled  and  wired.    JERSEY  LILY 
JuLEp-Large  lemonade-glass  half  filled  with  shaved 
ice,  i  tablespoon  sugar,  i  wine-glass  cognac,  i  glass 
champagne,  sprays  of  jessamine  or  orange  flowers, 
nutmeg,    dust    of    sugar    on  top.     ROSE  XECTAR 
JULEP — Lemonade-glass  with  ice,  %  glass  each  rose 
nectar  and  cognac;  i  spoon  sugar,  a,  slices  lemon, 
red  rose  buds  dusted  with  sugar,  rim  of  glass  rubbed 
with  lemon;  straws.    CHRISTMAS  JuLEp-Large  lem- 
onade tumbler,  the  rim  wet  with  whisky  and  dipped 
in  powdered  sugar  to  frost  it;  y2  filled  with  ice,  i 


306 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


DRI 

tablespoon  sugar,  i  spoon  maraschino,  \%  wine- 
glass whisky,  piece  lemon-rind,  )^  pt.  milk;  stirred; 
bay  leaf  dusted  with  sugar  set  in;  straws.  MOSELLE 
CUP  A  I.A  PRINCE  DE  GALLE — A  punch-bowl  made 
ice-cold;  i  pt.  rye  whisky,  i  bottle  pale  sherry,  2 
drops  ambergris,  i  drop  musk-essence,  2  tablespoons 
grated  pineapple,  spray  of  verbena;  all  set  on  ice  for 
2  hours;  then  added  2  bottles  sparkling  Moselle. 
PUNCH  A  LA  SANDRINGHAM— One  pint  new-made 
green  tea,  4  oz.  sugar,  2  tablespoons  port-wine  jelly 
dissolved  in  the  hot  tea,  i  lemon  sliced  in,  i  bottle 
whisky,  i  glass  brandy,  3  drops  ambergris.  YPO- 
CRAS —  "  'To  make  vpocras  hit  were  gret  lernynge.' 
The  '  vpocras  '  would  not  be  acceptable  to  a  gener- 
ation which  likes  the  curacao  dry.  Red  wine  was 
the  foundation  of  this  drink,  and  to  it  there  were 
added  ginger,  cinnamon,  spices  of  various  kinds, 
sugar-candy  and  other  condiments,  according  to 
whether  the  drink  was  being  brewed  for  those  of 
high  degree  or  for  common  people.  The  butler  is 
to  taste  it  constantly,  'alleway,'  the  writer  declares, 
and  if  the  result  be  not  perfect,  ginger,  cinnamon  or 
sugar  is  to  be  added  until  it  is  all  that  it  should  be." 
BRANDY  PUNCH — One-half  pint  water  with  y±  Ib. 
sugar,  peel  of  2  lemons,  little  cinnamon,  nutmeg, 
mace,  cloves;  all  simmered,  strained,  and  i  bottle 
brandy,  juice  of  2  lemons,  very  hot;  set  on  fire  in 
bowl,  and  served  burning.  PHILADELPHIA  COOLER- 
"The  latest  drink,  and  the  one  that  is  all  the  rage 
in  Saratoga,  is  the  'Philadelphia  cooler.'  It  was 
first  made  by  bartender  A.  D.  Kibbe,  who  has  mixed 
beverages  at  the  United  States  for  fourteen  years; 
but  it  can  be  got  at  either  of  the  three  other  first- 
class  bars.  As  it  is  made  of  champagne,  and  costs 
something  like  a  dollar  a  drink,  it  fitly  represents 
the  two  main  characteristics  of  the  season — cham- 
pagne drinking  and  extravagant  pleasures.  There 
never  was  so  much  money  on  tap  at  Saratoga  as  at 
present,  and  the  interest  taken  in  champagne  by  the 
drinkers  is  phenomenal.  With  the  King  of  the 
Dudes  backing  one  brand,  Monsieur  Lippa  treating 
to  another,  and  a  private  individual  rushing  his 
favorite  simply  because  he  believes  it  better  than 
any  other  and  does  not  want  the  fact  overlooked, 
there  has  been  enough  wine  drank  to  float  a  ship. 
The  drink  called  the  'cooler'  is  prepared  by  half- 
filling  two  big  glasses  with  cracked  ice,  putting  in  a 
little  mint  and  two  lumps  of  sugar,  pour  half  a  pint 
of  champagne  on  top,  and  squeezing  the  mint  with 
a  crusher  or  mixer  until  its  essence  pervades  the 
champagne.  After  a  night  spent  in  drinking  coolers 
the  average  dude  can  find  his  way  to  bed — if  one  of 
the  porters  steers  him  correctly."  CHAMPAGNE 
CUP  (Saratoga) — One  bottle  champagne,  i  qt.  -bottle 
German  seltzer-water,  2  oranges  sliced,  sprigs  of 
balm  and  borage,  i  oz.  sugar;  in  a  covered  jug  im- 
bedded in  ice  for  I  hour;  then  strained  into  decanter. 
CIDER  Cur-One  quart  cider,  i  liqueur-glass  brandy, 
i  pt.  seltzer-water,  i  oz.  sugar,  sprigs  of  balm  and 
borage;  set  in  ice  for  an  hour;  decanted.  "ELEC- 
TRICAL COCKTAIL— Is  the  latest  American  drink. 


DRI 

According  to  Electrical  Review,  a  flexible  lead  from 
the  electrolier  ends  in  a  platinum  curl.  A  trifle  of 
sugar  is  added  to  the  fluid,  the  platinum  curl  lowered 
into  it,  and  the  current  turned  on  to  make  the  curl 
red-hot.  A  small  amount  of  the  alcohol  and  sugar 
is  carbonized,  and  the  resulting  burned-sugar  flavor 
is  said  to  be  very  delicate.  It  promises  to  be  a  fash- 
ionable winter-beverage,  and  can  be  made  cold  or 
hot."  "IDLEWILD  TODDY — Is  composed  of  half  a 
lemon,  half  an  orange,  sugar,  chopped  ice,  whisky, 
and  just  a  dash  of  Santa  Cruz  rum.  It  is  flavored 
with  Benedictine  cordial;  then  shaken  and  served  in 
ice."  FRUIT  PYRAMID — Half  a  lemon,  i  tablespoon 
each  of  lime  juice  and  pineapple  juice;  4  oz.  sugar, 
(no  liquors),  ice;  filled  up  with  rich  milk;  shaken. 
THE  STEiNWAY-Sugar,  whisky,  ice  and  Apollinaris 
water.  THE  DAISY — Five  drops  Angostura  bitters, 
lump  of  sugar  rubbed  on  a  lemon,  I  liqueur-glass 
port  wine  to  dissolve  sugar,  shaved  ice;  filled  up 
with  ginger  ale;  shaken.  THE  MAiTRANK-German 
specialty.  A  good-sized  bunch  of  woodruff  leaves 
in  a  bowl,  with  a  bottle  of  still  hock  steeped  an  hour, 
2  or  3  oranges  sliced  in,  i  liqueur-glass  each  char- 
treuse, maraschino  and  curacao,  i  bottle  sparkling 
wine,  sugar  to  taste;  served  as  a  cold  punch.  ''TiiE 
PKINCE  OF  WALES-Having  invented  the  long  drink 
called  'lemon  squash,'  has  now  addtd  to  his  laurels 
by  inventing  a  'short  drink;'  consisting  of  rye 
whisky,  powdered  sugar,  ice,  a  small  piece  of  pine- 
apple, some  Angostura  bitters,  a  little  lemon-peel,  a 
few  drops  of  maraschino  and  a  splutter  of  cham- 
pagne." "EGG-LEMONADE — Is  a  new  beverage 
that  barkeepers  find  it  pay  to  include  in  their  drink - 
list:  Put  into  a  pint-tumbler  a  teaspoonful  of  pow- 
dered sugar,  the  juice  of  i  lemon,  a  little  water  and 
i  egg;  fill  up  with  finely  broken  ice;  then  shake  rap- 
idly and  briskly  in  a  cobbler  glass.  It  may  be  im- 
bibed through  straws."  MILK  SHAKE— Shaved  ice, 
sugar,  milk;  any  flavoring  as  desired;  well  shaken 
to  make  foam.  CHARLIE  PAUL— Half-pint  tumbler 
filled  with  shaved  ice,  i  tablespoon  raspberry  syrup, 
i  liqueur-glasss  brandy;  filled  up  with  new  milk; 
shaken ;  straws.  MILK  PUNCH— Tumbler  with  ice, 
i  teaspoon  sugar,  I  wine-glass  brandy,  i  liqueur- 
glass  rum;  filled  up  with  new  milk;  shaken;  nutmeg 
on  top;  straws.  WASHINGTON  PuNCH-Large  glass 
of  shaved  ice,  i  teaspoon  sugar,  %  liqueur-glass  no- 
yeau,  %  wine-glass  brandy;  filled  up  with  new  milk; 
shaken;  powdered  sugar  on  top;  straws.  ROYAL 
AQUARIUM  MILK- PUNCH-  Six  eggs,  the  yolks  beaten 
with  8  oz.  sugar:  the  whites  whipped  and  then  mixed 
in  with  i  wine-giass  curacao,  i  bottle  brandy,  i  bot- 
tle rum,  2  qts.  new  milk,  3  bottles  soda;  well  mixed; 
enough  for  25.  ATHENJEUM  CLARET  CUP— "The 
following  recipe  for  claret-cup  is  the  one  adopted  at 
the  Athenaeum  Club:  The  rind  of  half  a  lemon,  % 
pint  hot  water  poured  on  two  ounces  of  sugar  and  4 
sprigs  of  borage;  let  it  cool;  add  a  bottle  of  good 
claret  and  i  bottle  of  soda-water;  put  in  yz  Ib.  of  ice 
and  flir  thoroughly;  withdraw  borage  and  serve.  It 
will  be  observed  that  brandy  or  other  liqueur  is  stu- 


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307 


DRU 

diously  excluded."  HOT  PuNCH-Foui  ounces  loaf- 
sugar  rubbed  OK  a  large  lemon,  juice  of  the  lemon 
squeezed  to  the  sugar  in  a  bowl,  i  pint  boiling  water, 
added,  J^  pt.  each  rum  and  brandy,  %  teaspoon 
grated  nutmeg.  BEER  CUP— One  quart  porter  or 
bottled  beer,  i  teaspoon  moist  sugar,  i  slice  toast, 
nutmeg,  ginger;  steeped  together  ^  hour.  POUSSE 
L'AMOUR — One-half  glass  maraschino  in  a  wine 
glass,  i  yolk  on  top,  %  glass  vanilla  cordial  next,  % 
glass  brandy  on  top;  not  mixed  or  broken.  POUSSE 
CAFE — Five  drops  raspberry  syrup  in  a  wine-glass, 
%  glass  each  of  maraschino,  curacao,  chartreuse 
and  brandy;  the  five  colors  not  to  be  mixed  or  broken 
till  drank.  CHAMPERELLE— One-third  each  brandy, 
maraschino,  Angostura;  in  strata;  not  mixed. 
BRAND  SCAFFA — One  quarter  each  of  raspberry 
syrup,  maraschino,  green  chartreuse  and  brandy; 
in  strata;  not  mixed.  GOLDEN  SLIPPER— Half 
wine-glass  of  yellow  chartreuse,  i  yolk,  J^ 
wine-glass  Danziger  goldwasser;  not  mixed,  nor 
broken.  SHERRY  FLIP— Glass  half-filled  with  ice, 

1  teaspoon    sugar,    i    egg,    ij£    glasses    sherry; 
shaken;     nutmeg    on    top.       SHERRY    COBBLER — 
A  tumbler  of  shaved  ice,  i  tablespoon  sugar,  piece 
of  lemon  peel,  essence  of  cloves,  i  tablespoon  port, 

2  glasses  pale  sherry;  shaken,  pineapple  and  orange 
slices  and  mint  added;  straws.     HARI-KARI — Glass 
half  filled  with  ice,  i  teaspoon  sugar,  lemon  juice, 
i  wine-glass  whisky,  filled  with  vichy  water,  fruits 
of  the  season  on  top.     WHISKY  CRUST  A — i  table- 
spoon gum  syrup,  4  drops  Angostura,  juice  of  l/z 
lemon,  J£  liqueur  glass  maraschino,  J£  glass  whisky, 
J£  glass  shaved  ice,  mixed,  poured  into  glass,  the 
edge  frosted  with  sugar."    ARCHBISHOP — Tumbler 
with   shaved  ice,   i  tablespoon  sugar,  juice  of  J£ 
lemon  and  %  orange,  %  liqueur  glass  rum,  filled  up 
with  Burgundy,   stirred;  straws.     {See  hot  brews, 
tuines,  spirits.) 

DRUM .  FISH— Southern  sea  fish;  like  the  black 
grouper,  weight  from  i  to  8  or  10  pounds;  so  named 
because  shoals  of  them  butt  against  vessels,  wooden 
piers,  etc.,  making  a  drumming  noise. 

DRY  BREAD— Pieces  thoroughly  dried,  crushed 
and  sifted  form  the  bread -crumbs  used  for  bread- 
ing and  frying. 

DUCHESS  CRUSTS-Small  cubes  of  bread  fried 
brown,  served  with  soup. 

DUCHESS  LOAVES— Ancient  name  of  cream 
puffs. 

DUCHESS  POTATOES— Potato  mashed  with 
yolk  of  egg  and  salt,  made  into  flat  ornamental 
shapes,  egged  over,  baked;  to  serve  with  fish  and 
for  garnish. 

DUCK— TOULOUSE  DUCK— "As  every  restaurant 
of  any  note  in  Paris,  so  does  every  town  in  Frar\ce, 
pique  itself  on  some  particular  dish.  So  it  is  that  the 
citizens  of  the  different  towns  temporarily  located  in 
Paris  meet  together  on  fixed  and  solemn  occasions  to 
partake  of  the  dish  of  their  town.  Now  ask  a  Tou- 
lousian  what,  next  to  the  cholera,  his  home  is  cele- 


DUC 

brated  for,  and  he  will  answer  you,  probably,  as  he 
answered  me,  'Canard a  la  mode  de  Toulouse.'  Do 
you  want  to  know  how  to  make  it  ?  Take  a  young 
duck,  bone  it;  now  take  half  a  pound  of  calf's  liver, 
minced,  the  duck's  liver  and  heart,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  minced  calf's  liver-fat,  two  handfuls  of 
grated  bread-crumbs,  two  eggs,  some  parsley 
minced  up  with  a  suggestion  of  garlic  and  a  little 
onion,  minced  and  fried  in  butter.  Mince  all  these 
ingredients  up  together.  Fill  the  duck  up  with  this 
stuffing,  sew  it  up,  wrap  it  up  in  a  napkin,  tying 
the  ends  together,  plunge  it  into  its  native  element, 
boiling,  and  let  it  cook  for  an  hour  or  an  hour  and  a 
quarter,  boiling  hard  all  the  time.  When  the  water 
has  run  off  (as  it  is  proverbial  it  will  do),  serve  it 
with  a  piquant  sauce,  and  agree  with  me  that  Tou- 
louse was  not  built  in  vain."  ROUEN  DUCK  — 
When  full  grown  will  often  surpass  the  Aylesbury 
in  weight,  but  it  does  not  come  so  early  to  perfec- 
tion, nor  is  its  flesh  so  delicate  as  a  duckling.  But 
as  an  autumnal  duck  it  has  no  fellow.  When  fully 
grown  it  should  be  hung  till  tender,  and  then  dressed 
as  a  wild  duck  and  served  with  port-wine  sauce  or 
with  the  bigarrade  or  Seville  orange  sauce.  SAUTE 
DE  CANETON  AUX  MORILLES — The  ducklings  cut 
up  as  for  a  stew,  the  legs  with  2  onions  stewed 
gently,  the  breast  pieces  added  and  cooking  con- 
tinued, some  morel -mushrooms  added,  i  ladle  meat 
gravy  and  some  glaze;  the  onions  taken  out  and 
parsley  and  lemon  added.  CANARD  A  LA  PUREE 
VERTE — Duck  cut  up  and  stewed  in  broth  with 
little  garlic,  onions,  thyme,  basil,  parsley,  bay  leaf, 
salt,  pepper;  pint  of  green  peas  boiled  and  passed 
through  a  seive,  duck  liquor  also  drained  and  added 
to  the  puree  of  peas,  reduced  or  thickened  with 
butter  and  starch,  poured  over  the  pieces  of  duck. 
BRAISED  DUCK — Ducks  fried  in  a  pan  with  lard  un- 
til the  outside  is  brown;  taken  up  and  flour  stirred 
in  the  pan  and  broth  or  water  to  make  thin  gravy, 
vegetables,  herbs  and  seasonings  added,  ducks  put 
in  and  simmered  in  the  gravy  2  hours.  SAVORY 
DUCK— Duck  cut  up,  bacon  and  butter  fried  to- 
gether and  flour  added,  broth  to  make  thin  gravy, 
onion,  herbs  and  seasonings.  Pieces  of  duck  fried  in 
butter  separately,  then  put  into  the  gravy  and  stewed 
an  hour;  gravy  strained;  served  with  peas.  CA- 
NARD A  L'ITALIENNE — Stuffed  with  liver  and  bacon, 
mixed  herbs,  truffles  cut  into  dice,  all  thickened 
with  yolks,  roasted,  served  with  Italian  sauce. 
FILLETED  DUCK — A  duck  roasted  %  hour,  the  meat 
cut  from  the  breast  in  long,  neat  slices,  laid  in  a 
bright  saucepan  with  brown  gravy,  highly  seasoned, 
and  i  glass  port;  simmered  gently  15  minutes;  served 
on  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  with  peas  in  center 
and  gravy  over  the  duck.  STEWED  DUCK  AND 
TURNIPS — Whole  duck  browned  in  butter,  cut  tur- 
nips fried  in  same  butter;  thin  sauce  made  in  the 
pan  with  herbs  and  seasonings,  dnck  simmered  in 
till  tender;  served  with  the  turnips  around  and  gravy 
strained  over.  DUCKLINGS  WITH  TOMATO  SAUCE — 
jYoung  ducks  filled  with  bread  stuffing,  placed  in  a 


308 


THE  bTEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


jaking  pan  with  plenty  of  strained  tomatoes,  pep- 
per, salt,  minced  onion  and  butter,  cooked  quickly 
in  oven  hot  enough  to  brown  them;  sauce  rubbed 
through  a  seive,  made  hot  again,  served  with  the 
ducks.  STEWED  DUCKS  AND  OLIVES— The  duck 
browned  in  butter,  gravy  made  in  the  pan  with 
herbs  and  seasonings,  duck  simmered  in  it  till  ten- 
der, gravy  strained  and  stoned  olives  added.  SAI.MI 
OF  DUCK — Roast  duck  and  giblet  sauce;  the  duck 
cut  up  after  roasting  and  simmered  in  the  gravy 
with  the  giblets  and  a  glass  of  wine  and  the  juice 
of  i  lemon;  garnished  with  croutons.  GARNISH 
FOR  DUCKLING — The  common  vegetable  garnish 
for  duckling  is  green  peas  or  sometimes  cresses; 
but  try  also  cooked  endive  or  celery,  turnips  browned 
in  butter,  and  almost  any  kind  of  salad.  ROAST 
DUCK — "The  great  secret  in  cooking  them  success- 
fully lies  in  the  basting,  which  should  be  very  fre- 
quent and  thorough.  Fill  the  carcase  with  stuffing; 
secure  the  legs  to  the  sides,  so  that  the  breast  may 
plump  up  well;  dredge  it  lightly  with  flour,  and 
baste  it  continuously  from  the  time  it  begins  to  cook. 
Just  before  it  is  done  (a  good-sized  duck  will  take 
from  three  quarters  of  an  hour  to  an  hour)  dredge  it 
again  lightly  with  flour,  as  it  will  then  froth  up  and 
look  plump ;  have  a  good  brown  gravy  ready  to  serve 
with  it,  but  do  not  pour  it  over  the  duck."  CANARDS 
SAUVAGES  EN  SALMIS — Wild  ducks  cut  up  in  salmis 
sauce.  CANARDS  SAUVAGES  A  LA  BIGARADE — Cut 
up  in  orange  sauce.  FILETS  DE  CANETONS  SAUVA- 
GES A  LA  SYRIENNE — Breasts  of  wild  ducks  with 
olives  in  brown  sauce;  served  with  alternate  fried 
croutons,  spread  with  a  paste  of  the  duck  livers  and 
butter.  SARCELLES  A  LA  PUREE  DE  CHAMPIGNONS- 
Teal  cut  in  joints;  braised;  served  with  a  pur£e  of 
mushrooms.  TURBAN  DE  FILETS  DE  SARCELLES  A 
LA  TOULOUSE — Breasts  of  teal  in  a  circle  with  fumet 
of  game  sauce,  pickled  mushrooms,  etc.  MALLARD 
DUCKS  A  LA  PROVENCALE— Stuffed,  roasted;  served 
with  their  own  gravy  and  shallot  sauce.  MALLARD 
DUCKS  A  L'AMERICAINE — The  ducks  roasted  about 
35  minutes;  carved;  best  pieces  kept  warm;  sauce 
made  of  the  carcases  with  herbs  and  seasonings; 
port  wine  and  currant  jelly  added;  poured  over  the 
pieces  of  ducks.  ROAST  DUCK,  APPLE  SAUCE — 
Tame  ducks  plain  roasted;  apple  sauce  served  with 
them  when  carved.  DUCK  PIE — Cold  raised  pie, 
made  by  lining  a  raised-pie  case  or  mould  with  short 
paste,  filled  with  sausage  meat  and  boned  ducks; 
baked  2  hours.  DUCK  IN  JELLY— Jelly  made  of 
calves'  feet,  boned  ducks  simmered  in  it  until  ten- 
der; made  up  in  decorated  mould  lined  with  jelly 
and  filled  in  with  duck  and  jelly;  cold  like  a  galan- 
tine. RED-HEAD  DUCK — Cooked  like  Cam-as-back, 
which  see.  "  Should  you  wish  to  eat  a  wild  duck  in 
perfection,  proceed  in  the  following  manner:  Hav- 
ing roasted  the  bird  for  about  twenty-five  minutes 
before  a  brisk  fire,  let  it  be  sent  to  table  with  a  rich 
gravy.  A  spirit-lamp  supporting  a  deep  silver  dish 
should  be  placed  before  the  carver.  Pour  in  this  dish 
three  glasses  of  port  wine,  a  good  pinch  of  cayenne 


EEL 

pepper,  a  sprinkle  of  salt,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and 
some  of  the  gravy.  The  duck  having  been  carved, 
the  pieces  are  rolled  in  the  boiling  preparation  and 
handed  around  in  the  hot  dish  to  the  '£ 

DUMPLINGS— Balls  of  flour-dough;  .sometimes 
having  fruit  inclosed;  boiled  or  baked.  EGG  DUMP- 
LINGS— Soft  dough  as  if  for  fritters  dropped  into 
boiling  water  or  soup;  to  be  eaten  with  meat  or  with 
sweet  sauce.  GERMAN  DUMPLINGS — Dampfnitdeln; 
pieces  of  light-bread  dough  dropped  into  boiling 
water,  or  cooked  by  steaming;  eaten  with  soup,  meat 
stews,  or  with  fruit  sauce.  SUET  DUMPLINGS— One 
pound  flour,  J£  Ib.  suet,  salt;  mixed  into  soft  dough, 
tied  in  a  bag,  or  dropped  in  water;  cooked  2  hours. 

DUNDEE  CAKE— Good,  plain  fruit  cake;  made 
of  i  Ib.  each  sugar,  butter  and  eggs;  ij£  Ibs.  flour; 
J£  Ib.  each  citron,  sultanas  and  stoned  raisins;  i  gill 
brandy.  To  be  true  to  the  name  must  be  in  shallow 
pans,  with  caraway  comfits  and  sugar  on  the  sur- 
face. 

D'UXELLES  SAUCE— (/)-Made  of  i  pt.  veloute, 
glass  of  white  wine,  and  beef  extract ;  mushrooms, 
red  tongue  and  parsley  chopped  fine  and  mixed  in. 
(2)-White  sauce  with  chopped  ham,  mushrooms, 
parslev,  etc. ;  used  in  a  thick  state  for  coating  cutlets, 
etc.,  before  breading  them  to  fry.  D'Uxelles  was 
the  name  of  a  French  general. 

E. 

EAU  (Fr.)— Water.  EAU  DE  VIE— Brandy. 
GLACE  EAU  DE  FRAISES — Strawberry  water  ice. 

EAU  DE  BARBADES— We  had  intended  to 
give  Martin's  views  on  wines,  (1739)  including  that 
of  Xuitz,  "forthe  health,"  and  that  of  Hai,  as  the 
best  in  Champagne;  whence  also  cameaTokai,  and 
a  wonderful  Bon-chretien  pear.  Liqueurs,  too, 
would  claim  a  few  words,  were  it  only  to  wonder 
whether  Eau  de  Barbades  could  be  anything  else 
but  Jamaica  rum  jEsquibar  was  clearly  usquebaugh; 
and  eau-de- vie  d'Irlande  smells  of  potheen  a  mile  off. 

ECARLATE  (Fr.)— Scarlet,  with  red  tongue,  or 
corned  beef. 

ECHIXEE  (Fr)— Chine.  ECHIXEE  DE  PORC 
ROTIE — Roast  chine  of  pork. 

ECCLES  CAKES— Baker's  shop  pastry;  rounds 
of  puff  short  paste  containing  a  filling  of  currants 
and  brown  sugar,  flavored;  sugar  on  top. 

ECOSSAISE  (a  1')— In  Scottish  style. 

EELS — Found  in  sluggish  streams  and  mill 
ponds;  plentifnl  in  countries  where  the  farms  are  di- 
vided by  dykes  or  ditches  and  where  ponds  abound; 
but  not  in  general  use  in  this  country.  LIXLITH- 
GOW  EELS— The  celebrated  "Linlithgow"  recipe  for 
coojiing  eels:  Kill,  clean,  and  rub  them  well  with 
salt,  slit  them  up  belly-way,  and  remove  the  hone. 
Next,  wash  well  and  dry,  then  cut  into  4- inch 
lengths;  dredge  well  with  flour.  Dip  the  pieces  in 
a  thickish  batter  made  of  melted  butter  and  yolk  of 
I  egg,  seasoned  to  taste  with  salt,  cayenne,  and  a 


THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


309 


EEL 

m'r.ce  of  pulley,  s-ige  and  shallot.  Roll  in  bread- 
crumbs twice  over,  then  broil  on  a  clear  but  slow 
'•re  till  well  done.  Serve  with  either  melted  butter 
or  anchovy  sauce.  SKINNING  EELS — The  great  cul- 
inary artist,  Ude,  gives  the  following  directions  for 
the  skinning  of  eels:  "Take  some  live  ones,  throw 
them  into  the  fire,  •  and,  as  they  are  twisting  and 
turning  about  on  all  sides,  lay  hold  of  them  with  a 
towel  in  your  hand,  and  skin  them."  That  mode 
certainly  appears  to  us  singularly  cruel.  Dr.  Kitch- 
ener endeavored  to  have  eels  killed  in  as  humane  a 
manner  as  possible.  "With  a  sharp-pointed  skew- 
tr,"  he  says,  "pierce  the  spinal  marrow  through  the 
hack  part  of  the  skull;  life  will  instantly  cease." 
Another  cook  says :  "  Dip  all  over  for  an  instant  in 
boiling  water;  then  skin."  Another  says:  "Stun 
them  with  a  blow  upon  the  head,  cut  an  incision 
around  the  neck,  catch  the  edge  of  the  skin,  holding 
by  a  cloth,  and  pull  it  off."  SPITCHCOCKED  EELS — 
Large  eels  split,  bone  taken  out,  cut  in  lengths, 
seasoned,  breaded,  fried,  sauce,  or  butter  and  lemon. 
STEWED  EELS— For  ordinary  tables  they  are  not 
skinned.  "The  present  consumption  of  eels  in  Lon- 
don aggregate  about  1,650  tons  a  year,  value  £130,- 
ooo.  It  is  estimated  that  some  24,000  regular  custom- 
ers contract  for  their  supplies  of  this  fish,  and  sell 
them  again  retail.  The  London  stewed  eel  trade  is 
in  fact  a  considerable  one,  and  the  enterprising1, 
though  for  the  most  part  humble,  caterers  engaged 
in  it  render  essential  service  to  the  poorer  classes  by 
supplying  at  all  hours  and  at  very  low  figures  this 
highly  nutrious  food  in  a  cooked  condition.  Some 
of  the  large  stewed  eel  vendors  use  a  ton  of  fish 
weekly.  The  great  bulk  of  the  eels  consumed  in 
London,  whether  in  the  form  of  the  aristocratic  eel 
a  la  Tartare,  and  a  la  Poulette,  or  the  more  ple- 
beian eel  soup  and  eel  pies,  conies  either  from  the 
Fens  or  from  Holland  and  Germany."  ANGUILLES 
A  LA  BROCHE— Roasted  eels.  A  large  eel,  the  head 
left  on,  skinned,  the  back  larded  wilh  small  strips 
pork,  steeped  in  seasoned  marinade  3  hours,  skew- 
ered into  oval  ring  shape,  roasted  or  baked,  shallot 
sauce.  ANGUILLES  AU  SOLEIL — Cut  in  large  pieces, 
fiist  boiled  in  wine,  water  and  vegetables,  then 
breaded  and  fried.  ANGUILLES  EN  RAGOUT — Stewed 
and  served  in  the  sauce  with  wine.  ANGUILLES  A  LA 
MINUTE — In  pieces,  boiled  in  salted  water,  served 
with  maitre  d'  hotel  sauce  and  potatoes.  ANGUILLES 
A  LA  POULETTE — Cut  in  pieces,  stewed  with  wine, 
broth,  mushrooms,  shallots,  mace,  salt,  cayenne; 
liquor  strained  and  made  yellow  with  yolks;  lemon 
juice  added.  ANGUILLES  EN  MATELOTE — Stewed 
with  oysters,  onions,  parsley,  mushrooms  etc.  AN- 
GUILLES A  LA  OKLY — Split,  boned,  cut  in  long  pieces, 
dipped  in  batter,  fried;  with  rings  of  dry-fried 
onions.  ANGUILLES  A  L'  ECOSSAISE— In  Scottish 
style;  cut  up  and  salted  for  an  hour;  washed, 
stewed  in  broth  with  vegetables  and  herbs;  liquor 
strained,  thickened  with  flour;  squares  of  buttered 
toast  to  serve  it  on.  ANGUILLES  A  L*  ANGLAISE — 
Thin  buttered  sauce  made  with  herbs,  little  lemon 


EGG 

peel,  salt;  cut  up  eels  stewed  in  it;  parsley  and 
lemon.  STEWED  EELS — Cut  in  lengths,  stewed  in 
water  with  salt  and  pepper,  thickened  with  flour; 
chopped  parsley  added  at  serving.  EEL  PIE — Pieces 
rolled  in  flour  which  is  seasoned,  placed  in  a  dish 
lined  with  paste,  broth  poured  in;  covered  with  top 
crust,  baked  an  hour.  ANGUILLES  A  LA  TAR- 
TARE — Eels  full  length  skewered  and  tied  into  ring-- 
shape, parboiled  in  seasoned  broth,  taken  up,  double 
breaded,  fried  in  wire  basket,  served  with  tartare 
sauce  in  center  of  the  ring;  garnished.  ANGUILLES 
A  LA  CENDRE — Eels  cooked  in  the  coals.  Cleaned, 
coiled  up,  seasoned,  wrapped  in  buttered  paper, 
covered  with  embers  and  ashes  in  the  open  fire-place; 
paper  removed,  served  with  butter  and  bread.  EEL 
SOUP — Made  of  eel  partly  fried  in  butter,  with  broth, . 
wine,  tomatoes,  flour,  etc. ;  eels  and  toast  served  in  it. 
EEL  A  L'  IZAAK  WALTON — In  spite  of  the  prejudice 
against  eels,  they  make  an  excellent  pie,  and  were 
for  centuries  thought  fit  for  royal  banquets  and 
monastic  tables.  If  eels  went  into  monastic  refec  • 
tories,  they  have  a  brevet  for  any  other  dining-room. 
Eels  are  equally  good  fried,  stewed,  or  roasted.  For 
a  recipe  tor  the  latter  we  refer  our  readers  to 
Izaak  Walton's  charming  book;  it  is  one  he  recoil- 
mends  by  the  strong  statement,  "that  when  he  gets 
an  eel  dressed  according  to  it,  he  wishes  it  were  as 
long  and  as  big  as  the  eel  caught  in  Peterborough 
River  in  1667 — a  yard  and  three-quarters  long." 
TURBAN  DE  FILETS  D'  ANGUILLES,  SAUCE  PERIG- 
EUX — Eels  split  and  boned,  cut  into  4  inch  lengths, 
flattened;  a  turban  mould  or  deep  cake  mould  lined 
with  fish  forcemeat  containing  truffles  and  mush- 
rooms; fillets  put  in  upright- way,  center  filled  with 
forcemeat,  steamed  an  honr,  turned  out;  sauce  of 
fried  truffles  in  Bechamel,  truffles  garnish  and 
prawns. 

EEL-POUT— Cooked  same  as  eels. 

EGGS  — "  Though  many,  I  own,  are  the  evils 
they've  brought  us,  And  royalty's  here  on  her  very 
last  legs,  Yet  who  can  help  loving  the  nation  that 
taught  us  Six  hundred  and  eighty -five  ways  to  dress 
eggs!"  That  is  what  Tom  Moore  had  to  say  in 
favor  of  France,  and  it  shows  that  the  invention  of 
new  ways  of  cooking  eggs  is  a  very  old  pastime. 
Some  years  ago  a  book  was  advertised  in  this  coun- 
try which  gave  recipes  for  700  ways  of  cooking 
eggs  and  [fish ;  perhaps,  however,  it  was  rather  too 
much  of  a:  good  thing,  for  it  has  dropped  out  of 
sight.  That  it  was  an  old  pursuit  even  in  Moore's 
day  is  apparent  from  a  review  of  a  once  famous 
cookery  book  in  three  volumes  that  was  published 
in  1739,  in  Paris,  of  course,  by  one  Marin,  the  Ca- 
reme  of  his  day,  the  leader  in  a  new  school  of  cook- 
ery. "  Marin  was  very  strong  on  eggs — after  meat, 
he  averred,  the  most  nourishing,  assimilable  and 
healthy  of  foods;  the  poor  shared  them  with  the 
rich,  and  the  whole  with  the  invalid.  He  therefore 
gave  endless  ways  of  cooking  them,  and  an  infinity 
of  omelettes.  He  even  printed  the  menus  of  a  din- 
ner for  twelve  and  a  supper  for  seven,  each  of  four 


310 


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EGG 

courses,  and  all  wholly  and  solely  of  eggs.    The 
dishes  include^  skewered  eggs,  meringues  of  eggs 
eggs  as  sole  and  as  whiting,  a  hot  pie  of  fresh  eggs 
which  would  lead  one  to  fear  they  were  not  all  no,, 
but  rather  suited  to  the  palate  of  the  city  dame  in 
the  old  play,  who  liked  the  whites  'of  a  delicate 
blue."    She  ought  to  have  married  the  man  who  pre 
ferred  his  potatoes   'with  a  bone  in   them.'     We 
light  also  upon  eggs  'a  la  grand'mere,'  the  mode 
of  preparing  which  is  not  given — perhaps,  it  mighl 
be  surmised,  for  obvious  reasons;  but  no,  all  pre 
conceived  notions  on  the  subject  must  be  abandoned, 
because  the  dish  figures  as  a  hot  entremets.    The 
dinner  contained  twenty  and  the  supper  nineteen 
dishes  of  eggs,  and  the  effect  ought  to  have  been 
•  to  excite  the  state  of  mind  shown  by  the  parson  in 
old  Joe,  who  dined  with  the  miserly  squire  who  had 
a  warren,  and  whose  grace  after  meat  ran : 
Of  rabbits  roast  and  rabbits  boiled, 
Of  rabbits  cooked  and  rabbits  spoiled, 
Of  rabbits  young  and  rabbits  old, 
Of  rabbits  hot  and  rabbits  cold, 
Of  rabbits  tender  and  rabbits  tough, 
The  Lord  be  praised  we've  had  enough." 

CEurs  A  LA  RELIGIEUSE— Convent  eggs;  hard- 
boiled  eggs  cut  in  slices  while  they  are  hot,  and 
covered  with  softened  butter  mixed  with  grated 
cheese  and  pepper.  CEurs  A  L'APPETISSANTK— 
Hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  halves,  the  yolks  taken  out, 
pounded  with  anchovies  and  butter,  returned  to  the 
whites,  smoothed  over,  decorated.  EGGS  AU 
BAIN-MARIE — "Experiment  by  stewing  all  kinds 
of  animal  food  in  the  bain-marie,  and  comparing  the 
result  with  stewing  in  boiling  or  simmering  water. 
A  very  simple  and  instructive  experiment  may  be 
made  by  cooking  an  egg  in  a  glue-pot  or  milk- 
scalder.  Allow  6  or  7  mi.iutes,  instead  of  3%.  A 
hen's  egg  cooked  thus  will  be  as  tender  and  delicate 
as  a  plover's  egg  cooked  as  usual  in  boiling  water. 
Besides  this  tenderness  there  is  another  practical 
advantage.  A  minute  or  two  more  or  less,  or  even 
three  or  four  minutes  more,  will  not  spoil  the  egg. 
The  effect  of  overdoing  an  egg  at  the  proper  cook- 
ing temperature,  i6oto  180  degrees,  is  rather  curi- 
ous. The  white  remains  tender,  but  the  yolk  hard- 
ens, becomes  harder  than  the  white.  I  discovered 
this  in  making  experiments  on  eggs.  I  found  that 
the  yolk  of  a  hen's  egg  coagulates  at  a  lower  tem- 
perature than  the  white.  In  ordinary  cooking  this 
does  not  show  itself,  as  the  heat  is  not  allowed  suf- 
ficient time  to  penetrate  the  yolk.  When  I  warmed 
an  egg  thoughout  to  about  140  degrees,  and  kept  it 
at  that  temperature  during  several  hours,  the  yolk 
became  quite  hard,  while  the  white  was  only 
jellied."  ROCK  WORK,  CEuFS  A  LA  NIEGE — 
Snow  eggs  with  custard;  made  by  separating  eggs, 
making  a  yellow  custard  with  the  yolks,  whipping 
the  whites  firm  with  little  sugar,  and  poaching  by 
dropping  spoonfuls  in  boiling  milk,  the  poached 
white  "  rock  work  "  being  built  up  in  the  bowl  of 
custard.  SAVORY  EGGS — Eggs  beaten  in  a  bowl 
with  little  chopped  green  thyme,  salt,  pepper, 


EGG 

scrambled  in  plenty  of  butter.  EGGS  A  I/ANNECY 
— Hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  halves,  yolks  in  a  sauce- 
pan mixed  with  mushrooms,  parsley,  salt,  pepper, 
onions  and  butter,  raw  eggs  to  bind,  put  hack  in 
whites.  MAYONNAISE  EGGS — Hard-boiled  eggs, 
ends  cut  off,  yolk  extracted,  pounded  with  oil, 
vinegar,  mustard,  salt,  cayenne,  put  back,  eggs 
set  on  end  in  dish;  garnished  with  salad.  EGG 
SHELLS — "The  peripatetic  'shows,'  which  move 
from  fair  to  fair  in  the  country,  often  include  a 
shooting-gallery,  the  targets  whereof  are  egg-shells. 
Inquiry  has  elicited  the  fact  that  tnese  are  collected 
in  thousands  from  hotels  and  restausants,  the  chefs 
of  which  establishments  have  them  blown  instead  of 
breaking  them  in  the  ordinary  way."  SCRAMBLED 
EGGS  WITH  ASPARAGUS — Tips  of  asparagus  cooked 
separately  and  buttered  are  mixed  in  scrambled  eggs 
when  just  done.  EGGS  FOR  THE  BRAVE — "  Xo 
honest  appetite  ever  yet  rejected  an  egg  in  some 
guise.  It  is  nutriment  in  the  most  portable  form 
and  in  the  most  concentrated  shape.  After  the  vic- 
tory of  Muhldorf,  when  the  Kaiser  Ludwig  sat  at  a 
meal  with  his  burggrafs  and  great  captains,  he  de- 
termined on  a  piece  of  luxury — '  one  egg  to  every 
man,  and  two  to  the  excellently  valiant  Schwepper- 
man '."  EGGS  WITH  HAM-TOAST— Potted  ham  with 
butter  spread  on  toast;  a  poached  egg  on  each  slice. 
EGG  PYRAMIDS- — The  yolks  and  whites  separated, 
each  yolk  dropped  in  a  very  small  metal  shell  or 
butter-chip  previously  buttered;  the  whites  whipped 
quite  firm,  a  spoonful  placed  on  each  yolk,  shaped 
up  to  a  cone;  baked  in  slack  oven.  E.GG  ZEPHYRS — 
Little  steamed  puddings  of  eggs  and  butter;  made 
by  beating  6  oz.  melted  butter  into  6  eggs  and  2  oz. 
sugar;  flavor;  sauce.  EGG  SOUFFLES  A  LA  REINE — 
Whipped  whites  and  sugar  in  small  custard  cups, 
steamed,  the  center  scooped  out,  filled  with  rich 
yellow  custard;  macaroon-crumbs  on  top.  EGG 
PANCAKES — Made  of  eggs  and  butter  and  a  very 
little  cream;  6  eggs  to  4  oz.  butter,  i  oz.  cream,  salt; 
cooked  as  a  pancake;  lemon-juice  and  sugar  over. 
EGGS  AND  BACON — Sir  Kenelm  Digby,  in  his  Closet 
of  Cookery  (1669),  says:  "A  couple  of  poached  eggs, 
with  a  few  callops  of  pure  bacon,  are  not  bad  for 
breakfast,  or  to  begin  a  meal."  EGG  SANDWICH — 
Hard-boiled  eggs  pounded  white  and  yolk  together 
in  a  mortar  with  butter,  salt,  pepper,  cayenne; 
spread  on  thin  buttered  bread.  OZuFS  MOLLETS  A 
LA  BOUCHERE — Soft  eggs  with  meat.  Half  pound 
each  of  bacon,  tenderloin  beef  and  small  button  on- 
ons;  the  meat  cut  to  the  size  of  the  onions;  all  fried 
n  butter;  brown  sauce  added,  herbs,  seasonings;  5^ 
b.  mushrooms  fried ;  poached  eggs  served  on  top. 
DEVILLED  EGGS- — Hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  halves; 
the  yolks  pounded  with  potted  (devilled)  ham,  pep- 
>er,  mustard  and  oil,  or  butter,  and  lemon  juice; 
put  back  in  whites;  served  with  salad.  EMPERORS- 
Sliced  hard  eggs  on  rounds  of  bread;  a  split  sardine 
coiled  on  the  egg;  chopped  egg  in  center  of  sardine; 
stoned  olive  on  top.  EGG  SOUP — Yolks  in  a  soup 
tureen;  boiling  clear  soup  beaten  in;  vermicelli,  or 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


EGG 

rice,  separately  cooked,  mixed  in.  CEuFS  A  L'Au 
RORE— Hard-boiled  eggs  chopped  in  cream  sauce,  to 
be  thick  enough  to  keep  form  on  the  dish;  part  of  the 
yolks  reserved  and  rubbed  through  seive  to  yellow 
over  the  surface;  made  hot  to  serve.  ORLEANS 
CLUB  EGGS — "An  established  luncheon  dish,  young 
in  fame,  but  firmly  established  and  approved  since 
the  first  trial,  is  a  dish  of  plattered  eggs  whose 
golden  yolks  are  set  in  a  red-brown  semi-fluid  of 
tomato  puree  and  shredded  anchovies."  EGG  SALAD- 
Sliced  eggs,  chopped  parsley,  salt,  pepper,  vinegar, 
oil,  or  with  salad  dressing.  CEurs  A  LA  TRIPE — 
Sliced  eggs  in  onion-cream  sauce.  CEurs  FAR- 
cis — Stuffed  eggs.  Hard-boiled,  cut  in  halves, 
yolks  mixed  with  grated  ham  and  parsley;  but- 
ter over  in  the  oven;  served  on  croutons.  EGG 
SAUSAGES  —  Sausage  skins  are  filled  with  the 
same  mixture  as  for  "omelet  with  fine  herbs,"  in  a 
raw  state,  filled  with  a  funnel,  divided  into  sausage 
lengths  with  twine,  carefully  poached  without  boil- 
ing; skin  taken  off  when  cold,  warmed  in  butter, 
served  ornamentally  with  a  vegetable.  CEuFS  A 
L'ARLEQUIN — Many-colored.  Poached  eggs  on 
toast,  sprinkled  with  greeu  parsley,  red  ham,  black 
truffles,  all  chopped;  brown  sauce  around  in  the 
dish.  CEuFS  A  LA  DUXELLES— Poached  eggs  cut 
when  cold  like  biscuits  with  a  round  cutter,  coated 
with  Duxelies  sauce,  breaded,  egged,  and  breaded 
again,  fried.  EGGS  STUFFED  WITH  NOUILLES  AND 
HAM — Hard-boiled  split,  yolks'  removed,  whites 
filled  with  mixture  of  fine -cut  nouilles  mixed  with 
minced  ham;  cooked  yolks  like  vermicelli  through 
a  seive  on  top.  EGG  ROLLS — Minced  eggs  and 
smoked  haddock  or  other  fish,  mixed  with  mayon- 
naise, placed  inside  some  small  hollowed  baker's 
rolls  or  finger  rolls;  served  with  cheese  after  dinner 
and  for  lunch.  SPANISH  EGGS — Poached  eggs  on 
a  dish  of  boiled  rice  plainly  seasoned  with  salt  and 
butter;  stick  cinnamon  boiled  in  the  rice.  CURRIED 
EGGS — Quartered  eggs  in  curry  sauce,  made  by 
slicing  an  apple  and  onion  and  frying  them  in  butter, 
curry  powder,  flour  and  water  added  to  make  the 
sauce;  hard  eggs  put  in,  and  served  with  a  border 
of  rice  when  hot  enough.  CEuFS  BROUILLES  AUX 
POINTES  D'ASPERGES — Scrambled  eggs  with  aspar- 
agus tips.  CEuFS  BROUILLES  AUX  TRUFFES  — 
Scrambled  eggs  with  truffles  cut  in  dice,  warmed  in 
butter  separately,  then  mixed  in.  CEuFS  BROUILLES 
A  L'INDIENNE — Scrambled^eggs  with  butter,  onion, 
salt,  pepper,  cayenne,  curry  powder  and  lemon 
juice.  CEUFS  AU  BKURRE  NOIR — Eggs  dropped 
into  butter  which  froths  and  turns  brown  while  fry- 
ing; sprinkled  with  chili  and  tarragon  vinegar; 
served  on  toast.  CEuFS  POCHES  AU  Jus — Poached 
sggs  in  brown  gravy;  dish  made  memorable  by 
Brillat-Savarin,  who  liked  them  cooked  under  roast- 
ing meat.  CEuFS  POCHES  AU  JAMBON — Poached 
eggs  on  oval  slices  of  broiled  ham,  with  a  peppery 
sauce.  CEuFS  AU  KARI — Eggs  with  curry;  pouched 
in  an  onion-cream  sauce  containing  curry  powder 
enough  to  make  it  yellow.  CEuFS  EN  CANAPES — 


EGG 

Hard-boiled,  the  yolks  seasoned,  made  green  with 
chopped  parsley,  put  back  in  the  whites;  served  on 
toast.  OEuFS  AU  MIRROIR— Eggs  like  a  small 
hand-mirror;  shirred  eggs.  SHIRRED  EGGS — Amer- 
ican name;  eggs  dropped  in  a  rather  deep  oval 
dish  well  spread  with  soft  butter,  and  soft-cooked 
either  in  the  oven  or  on  top  of  range.  CEuFS  A  LA 
BONNE  FEMME — Eggs  a  good  woman's  way; 
baked  with  chopped  onions  and  vinegar.  (Eurs 
AU  SOLEIL — Eggs  like  the  sun;  same  as  Duxelies. 
CEuFS  A  LA  PROVENCALS— Cooked  in  small  moulds 
with  chopped  onions,  brown  sauce,  etc.  CEuFS  A 
L'AVIGNONNAISE  — Hard-boiled,  divided  across; 
forcemeat  made  of  the  yolks,  bread,  anchovy,  salt, 
pepper,  nutmeg,  white  sauce;  a  built-up  dish  made 
of  the  whites,  and  forcemeat,  crumbs,  cheese  and 
butter  over;  baked.  CEuFS  EN  CAissE-Hard-boiled, 
sliced;  in  buttered  cases  lined  with  bread  crumbs, 
with  cheese  in  white  sauce  between  the  slices; 
crumbs  on  top;  lightly  baked.  BAKED  EGGS — 
Hard-boiled,  sliced  in  dish  with  tomato  sauce  and 
grated  cheese;  crumbs  over;  baked.  CEuFS  A  LA 
BECHAMEL— Hard-boiled,  split  lengthwise,  in  Be- 
chamel sauce;  crumbs  over;  browned  in  the  oven. 
CEuFS  AU  VELOUTE — Slices  in  white  sauce  with  but- 
ter and  pastry.  FRICASSEED  EGGS— Same  as  eggs 
a  la  tripe.  CEUFS  AU  -GRATIN — Sliced  in  white 
sauce;  covered  with  cheese  and  crumbs;  browned. 
EGGS  A  LA  CREOLE — Eggs  dropped  singly  into  hot 
oil  and  fried  in  round  shape;  served  with  croutons 
and  brown  tomato  sauce.  CEuFS  A  LA  COMTESSE — 
Eggs  boiled  medium,  shelled,  dipped  whole  in  thick 
yellow  sauce,  breaded,  egged  and  breaded;  fried, 
served  on  napkin  with  fried  parsley.  CEuFS  AUX 
PISTACHES — A  sweet  dish;  a  kind  of  egg-pudding; 
made  of  4  oz.  butter,  i  oz.  flour,  %  pt.  cream,  in  a 
saucepan;  lemon  rind,  i  oz.  sugar,  &  eggs,  5  oz.  pis- 
tachio nuts  pounded;  stirred  over  fire  till  like  thick 
scrambled  eggs;  smoothed  over  in  a  dish;  sugared; 
azed  in  quick  oven.  EGG  CROQUETTES— Hard- 
boiled  and  minced  in  cream  sauce  thick  enough  to 
set  when  cold;  seasoned  sufficiently  for  the  eggs; 
some  parsley  and  chives;  rolled  when  cold;  breaded; 
fried.  POACHED  EGGS  WITH  SPINACH  — Spinach 
boiled  green,  drained  and  buttered;  a  neatly  poached 
egg  on  top.  CEUFS  EN  VOL- AU-VENT— Puff-  paste 
shell  filled  with  slices  of  egg  in  rich  cream  sauce. 
EGG  PATTIES— Small  patty  cases  of  puff  paste 
(pelits  Tols-au-venls),  the  inside  remainder  of  paste 
removed  after  baking;  a  raw  egg  dropped  in;  slack- 
baked  again  to  set  the  egg;  served  hot  with  rich 
cream  sauce  and  lemon.  (EUFS  A  LA  POLONAISE  — 
Hard-boiled,  yolks. mixed  with  fried  shallots  and 
tomato;  whites  re-filled;  baked;  fried  crumbs  over. 
EGG  BLANQUETTE — Yolks  and  whites  steamed  in 
separate  moulds  as  if  for  soup,  cut  in  lozenges  with 
tongue,  truffles  and  mushrooms;  all  mixed  in  rich 
cream  sauce,  colored  pale-yellow  with  raw  yolks; 
served  in  border  of  fried  shapes  of  bread.  CROUS- 
TADES  AUX  OEuFS— Cassolettes  or  fried-bread  cases 
filled  with  the  blattguette  preparation.  CEuFS  A  LA 


312 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


EGG 

COQUE  —  Plain  boiled  eggs.  EGG  MEDALLIONS 
A  LA  RUSSE — Hard-boiled  slices  on  rounds  of 
fried  bread,  with  top  dressing  of  caviare.  RISSOLES 
D'CEuFS— Hard-boiled,  cut  in  dice,  mixed  in  thick 
cream  sauce  with  raw  yolks  and  minced  fried  onions, 
etc.,  stirred  over  the  fire  same  as  croquette  mixture. 
Pieces  size  of  corks  rolled  up  in  paste  and  fried. 
CELTS  A  LA  REGENCE— Hard-boiled,  yolk  extracted 
from  aperture  in  end,  filled  with  soft  chicken  force- 
meat, poached,  dished  on  end  with  white  Italian 
sauce.  CEurs  A  LA  CARDINAL — Slices  of  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  yolks  pounded  to  paste  with  butter, 
rings  of  white  filled  with  red  forcemeat  of  salmon 
and  lobster;  poached  in  baking  pan;  yolk-puree 
warmed  in  center  of  dish;  rings  around;  pink  car- 
dinal sauce  over.  EGG  PIE  A  LA  MARSEILLAISE — 
Onions  and  truffles  sliced  and  fried  with  slight  fla- 
vor of  garlic,  drained,  sliced  hard-boiled  eggs  added 
in  seasoned  Bechamel;  bottom  crust  of  short  paste ; 
top  covered  with  mashed  potato;  baked  brown. 
CEuFS  A  LA  MUSCOVITE — Hard  eggs  scooped  out 
and  stuffed  with  Russian  salad  of  cooked  vegetables 
finely  cut  in  tartare  sauce;  cold  on  bed  of  lettuce. 
CEt;ps  A  L'OSEILLE— Sorrel  and  eggs;  the  sorrel 
cooked  like  spinach  with  butter;  hard  eggs  in  quart- 
ers on  top.  PICKLED  EGGS — Hard-boiled  eggs 
without  shells  in  a  jar;  boiling,  spiced  vinegar  with 
few  onions  poured  over;  ready  for  use  in  3  days. 
BEIGNETS  o'CEurs — Egg  fritters;  soft  poached  eggs 
seasoned,  cut  round,  inclosed  in  thin  puff -paste, 
breaded  and  fried.  EGG  KROMESKiES-Soft  poached 
eggs  seasoned,  dipped  in  batter,  and  fried.  DAISY 
Eocs-Rings  of  fried  bread  just  large  enough  inside 
to  hold  one  egg;  set  on  buttered  pan,  an  egg  dropped 
in;  baked  to  set;  seasoned,  buttered;  parsley  dust 
sprinkled  over.  FRIED  EGGS  A  LA  VIENNOISE — 
Poached  eggs  trimmed  round,  dried  on  cloth,  rolled 
in  flour,  and  fried;  used  to  garnish  dishes,  and  for 
spinach,  sorrel,  etc.  CEurs  SUR  LE  PLAT — Eggs  on 
the  dish;  shirred  eggs  with  thick  cream  cooked  on 
top,  as  well  as  butter  in  the  dish.  EGG  PUDDING  A 
LA  MILANAISE — Sliced  hard  eggs  in  a  pudding  dish, 
a  custard  with  salt  and  pepper  poured  over,  grated 
cheese  on  top;  baked  till  set.  PAUPIETTES  OK  EGGS- 
Minced  hard  eggs  highly  seasoned,  portions  rolled 
in  very  thin  pancakes,  dipped  in  batter,  and  fried ; 
they  are  like  Frankfurt  sausages  in  shape.  EN- 
GLISH EGG  PUDDINGS — Batter  puddings  made  with 
much  eggs  and  little  flour,  some  cream,  the  whites 
beaten  light  and  stirred  in;  boiled  in  bowls  or  in  a 
floured  pudding-bag;  served  as  soon  as  taken  up; 
eaten  with  an  acid  sauce,  like  raspberry  vinegar,  or 
lemon  juice  and  sugar.  CEurs  A  LA  MATELOTE — 
Poached  eggs  •with  matelote  sauce.  NEST  OF 
EGGS— 7>ouilles  paste  (noodles)  shred  like  straws 
and  fried;  used  as  a  border  to  make  a  nest  in  a 
dish,  and  stuffed  eggs  with  sauce  served  in  it. 
CEuFS  A  LA  SUISSE — (/)  Shirred  eggs,  having  a  lin- 
ing of  shaved  cheese  upon  the  butter  in  the  dish, 
the  eggs  dropped  in  raw,  cream  on  top,  grated 
cheese  on  surface ;  baked.  Swiss  EGGS-(£)  An  omelet 


EGG 

or  fondue;  6  eggs,  2  oz.  each  grated  cheese  and  but- 
ter, salt,  pepper,  parsley,  tarragon,  chives;  fried 
like  pancake  or  omelet  or  in  oven.  POACHED  EG*GS 
A  LA  RUSSE — Neatly  poached  eggs  on  toast,  with  a 
thin  white  mushroom  sauce  poured  over  all.  EGGS 
ON  HORSEBACK — A  couple  of  travelers  stopping  at 
the  Hotel  Francaise,  in  the  city  of  Cordova,  the 
capital  of  the  Argentine  Confederation,  were  sur- 
prised and  amused  by  noticing  on  the  bill  of  fare 
"eggs  on  horseback."  Determined  to  know  what 
it  meant  they  called  for  the  equestrian  dish,  when  a 
steak  "topped"  with  two  eggs  was  placed  on  the 
table.  ONE  EGG  FOR  TEN  MEN — One  ostrich  egg 
for  ten  guests  is  the  pattern  at  the  California  ostrich 
farm.  "One,  two,  three,  four,  five,  six,  seven,  eight, 
nine,  ten,"  said  Dwight  Whiting,  counting  the 
guests  he  had  invited  to  spend  the  day  at  the  ostrich 
farm  with  him.  "I  guess  one  egg  will  be  enough," 
and  having  given  utterance  to  this  expression  he 
wended  his  way  to  the  paddock  and  soon  brought 
to  the  house  an  ostrich  egg.  For  a  whole  hour  it 
was  boiled,  and  though  there  was  then  some  mis- 
givings as  to  its  being  cooked,  the  shell  was  broken, 
for  curiosity  could  no  longer  be  restrained,  and  a 
three-pound  hard-boiled  egg  laid  upon  the  plate. 
But  aside  from  its  size  there  was  nothing  peculiar 
about  it.  YOLKS  OF  EGGS — A  correspondent  asks: 
"Can  you  tell  me  what  use  to  make  of  surplus  yolks 
of  eggs?  You  do  not  mention  but  one  kind  of  cake 
made  with  yolks.  I  am  employed  in  a  fine  bakery 
or  confectionery  and  sometimes  have  several  quarts 
of  yolks  left  over  in  a  week  and  have  to  throw  them 
away  spoiled."  Answer:  If  you  were  doing  hotel 
work  you  would  find,  on  the  contrary,  the  whites 
would  be  left  over,  there  being  so  man\*more  uses 
for  the  yolks.  The  yolk  contains  all  the  richness 
of  the  egg,  and  gives  color,  flavor  and  smoothness 
to  puddings,  creams,  custards,  and  sweet  sauces, 
better  alone  than  with  the  whites  mixed  in.  We 
use  the  yolks  also  in  fish  sauces,  salad  dressings,  in 
potato  and  other  croquettes,  also  minced  for  an  or- 
namental garnish,  mixed  with  flour  for  "noodles," 
and  with  batter  for  another  kind  of  soup,  also 
thicken  soups  with  them,  instead  of  flour  and  starch, 
and  steam  yolks  in  bulk  like  a  cake,  then  cut  up  and 
use  them  as  we  would  chicken  meat  for  patties. 
We  rub  cooked  yolks  through  a  sieve,  making-  a 
sort  of  vermicelli,  to  serve  with  some  dish,  and  we 
drop  them  whole,  also,  in  soup  to  substitute  turtle 
eggs.  We  cut  them  up  arid  mix  with  chicken  meat, 
mushrooms  and  sauce  to  fill  the  shells  of  fried 
bread  with,  and  if  there  are  any  raw  yolks  left  over 
after  that,  we  mix  them  in  the  waffle  batter.  In  a 
good  bakery  you  will  find  nearly  as  many  uses  for 
this,  the  best  part  of  the  egg,  no  matter  how  many 
may  be  left  over  from  your  using  the  whites  in  me- 
ringues, macaroons,  icing,  etc.,  for  the  yolks  may 
be  mixed  with  water  and  used  the  same  as  whole 
eggs.  Take  a  pint  measure  about  two-thirds  full 
of  yolks,  fill  it  up  with  water  and  you  have  a  pint 
of  eggs,  which  is  a  pound,  or  equal  to  10  eggs,  and 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


313 


EGG 

the  mixture  of  yolks  and  water  can  be  used  in  mak- 
ing almost  any  sort  of  cakes,  the  only  difference 
•observable  being  that  they  are  yellower  and  richer  | 
than  if  whole  eggs  are  employed.  In  this  way  you  ! 
can  utilize  the  yolks  in  all  sorts  of  small  cakes,  in  ! 
French  coffee  cakes,  buns,  rusks,  brioches,  and  in 
the  sorts  of  sponge  cakes  and  jelly  roils  which  are  j 
made  light  with  powder  instead  of  whipped  whites,  j 
If  you  make  ice  creams,  they  alone — that  is  the  fancy 
kinds — should  vise  up  all  of  that  material  you  can 
have  to  spare,  and  another  good  purpose  to  put  sur- 
plus egg  yolks  to,  is  to  mix  them  with  lemon  or 
orange  syrup  and  a  little  butter,  and  stir  the  mixture 
over  the  fire  until  it  thickens,  making  lemon  or 
orange  butter  or  cheese-cake  mixture.  CEurs  EN 
ASPIC— Sliced  hard-boiled  eggs  ornamentally  set  in 
a  mould  of  aspic  jelly,  turned  out  on  a  border  of 
salad.  CEuFS  AU  TOMATE — Hard-boiled,  the  whites 
cut  in  strips  in  tomato  sauce,  in  a  dish  with  border 
of  fried  bread,  the  yolks  chopped  and  spread  on  top. 
GOLDEN  EGGS — Hard-boiled,  shelled,  breaded  and 
fried  whole.  SUNSHINY  EGGS — Eggs  fried  on  one 
side,  with  tomato  sauce  poured  over  in  the  dish. 
EGG  OMELETS — See  omelets.  PLOVER'S  EGGS — See 
plover.  AN  EPICURE  ON  EGGS  —  "I  agree  with 
Falstaff,  in  his  contempt  for  the  prevalent  absurdity 
of  eating  eggs,  eggs,  eegs  at  breakfast.  '  No  pullet 
sperm  in  my  brewage,"  say  I.  I  prefer  chicken  to 
the  egg,  and  the  hen,  when  she  is  really  a  fine  bird 
and  well  roasted  or  grilled,  to  the  chicken." 

EGG  FLIP  —See  hot  brews.  " They  can  also  be 
drunk  in  the  shape  of  that  'egg  flip,"  which  sustains 
the  oratorical  efforts  of  modern  statesmen." 

EGG-XOGG  and  ICED  EGG-NOGG  —  See 
drinks. 

EGG  KISSES— Meringues;  baked,  white  of  egg 
and  sugar. 

EGG  SAUCE— Butter  sauce  with  an  admixture 
of  chopped  eggs. 

EGG  REMEDIES— The  white  is  the  most  effi- 
cacious of  remedies  for  burns,  and  the  oil  extract- 
able  from  the  yolks  is  regarded  by  the  Russians  as 
an  almost  miracxilous  saive  for  cuts,  bruises  and 
scratches.  A  raw  egg,  swallowed  in  the  throat, 
and  the  white  of  two  eggs  will  render  the  deadly 
corrosive  sublimate  as  harmless  as  a  dose  of  cal- 
omel. 

EGG  OIL,— Is  extracted  from  the  yolks  by  the 
family  doctors  in  the  southern  states,  by  slowly  fry- 
ing, stirring  and  almost  burning  a  mass  of  yolks  in 
a  frying  pan  without  any  additions. 

EGGS  IN  THE  ARTS- In  France  alone  the 
wine  clarifiers  use  more  than  80,000,000  a  year,  and 
the  Alsatians  consume  fully  38,000,000  in  calico 
printing  and  for  dressing  the  leather  used  in  mak- 
ing the  finest  of  French  kid  gloves. 

EGG  PRESERVATION— Drying  eggs  in  the 
form  of  grains  of  powder  has  proved  practicable 
but  scarcely  yet  commercially  successful,  probably 


EGG 

through  the  fear  of  the  public  that  spoiled  eggs 
may  be  concealed  in  the  preparation.  The  experi- 
ment can  easily  be  tried  by  spreading  a  beaten  egg 
upon  a  plate  and  allowing  it  to  dry  out;  it  will  leave 
the  plate  in  brittle  crumbs  which  can  then  be  dis- 
solved in  warm  water  and  used.  The  yolk  aione,  if 
dried,  cannot  be  dissolved  afterwards  unless  with 
the  aid  of  some  chemical  admixture.  The  white 
alone  if  dried  is  easily  soluble,  and  easily  kept  and 
after  keeping  and  dissolving  in  water  can  be  beaten 
to  froth  as  well  as  if  fresh.  THE  HAVANA  PRO- 
CESS— The  following  is  the  "Havana  process"  for 
keeging  eggs,  the  formula  for  which  has  been  kept 
a  secret  or  sold  to  persons  who  \vere  willing  to  pay 
$2  for  it:  Take  twenty -four  gallons  of  water  and 
P'lt  in  12  pounds  of  unslaked  lime  and  four  pounds 
of  salt.  Stir  well  several  times  a  day  and  then  let 
it  stand  and  settle  until  perfectly  clear.  Then  draw 
off  twenty  gallons  of  the  clear  lime  and  salt  water. 
By  putting  a  spigot  in  the  barrel  about  four  inches 
above  the  bottom  you  can  draw  off  the  clear  water 
and  leave  the  settlings.  Then  take  five  ounces  of 
baking  soda,  five  ounces  cream  tartar,  five  ounces 
saltpetre,  five  ounces  borax  and  one  ounce  of  alum; 
pulverise  these,  mix  and  disolve  in  a  gallon  of  boil- 
ing water,  which  should  be  poured  into  your  twenty 
gallons  of  lime  water.  This  will  fill  a  whisky  barrel 
about  half  full  and  such  a  barrel  holds  i5odoz.  eggs. 
Let  the  water  stand  one  inch  above  the  eggs.  Cover 
with  old  cloth  and  put  a  bucket  of  the  settlings  over 
it.  As  the  water  evaporates  add  more,  and  the  eggs 
must  be  kept  covered.  For  the  ordinary  purposes 
of  home  consumption  the  French  peasantry  have  for 
ages  preserved  their  eggs  In  a  very  simple  fashion. 
They  take  a  wooden  case,  or  a  large  barrel,  and  pack 
them  in  thick  layers  of  sawdust,  fine  sand,  chalk, 
bran,  cinders,  or  coal  dust,  so  that  they  do  not  touch 
each  other.  In  the  United  States  we  have  limed 
eggs — that  is,  eggs  kept  in  lime  water — and  pickled 
eggs — kept  in  strong  brine — so  much  a  matter  of 
course  that  they  are  regular  market  quotations, 
which  shows  that  they  are  the  most  expedient  and 
practicable  ways.  The  eggs  are  not  as  good  as  fresh 
and  the  prices  are  according,  still  they  are  good  and 
sometimes  form  the  only  available  supply  of  this 
most  necessary  article.  In  experiments  with  egg- 
preservatives  too  little  attention  seems  to  be  paid  to 
the  question  of  temperature;  eggs  are  like  meat  and 
can  be  kept  for  an  indefinite  period  in  a  cold  storage 
chamber  at  about  the  freezing  point,  without  regard 
to  the  packing;  on  the  other  hand  any  vegetable 
packing  that  may  become  damp  around  them  will 
heat  and  spoil  them  in  a  few  days.  A  farmer  carried 
off  the  prize  at  a  fair  for  his  eggs,  preserved  for 
months  by  only  packing  in  dry  bran;  if  all  had  been 
known  probably  it  would  have  been  found  that  a 
cold  cellar  had  been  the  real  means  of  saving  them. 
EGG  PLANT— The  aubergine  fruit;  deep  pur- 
ple, almost  black  outside;  egg-shaped,  size  from 
that  of  a  pint  cup  to  three  times  that  bulk;  plentiful 
and  cheap  in  the  markets;  most  at  home  in  the 


314 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


ELD 

South.  EGG  PLANT  A  LA  TURQCE — Mussaka,  I 
learned,  otherwise  Imam-Butldi(\\\\ich  in  English 
means  "the  High-Priest's  Tuck-in",)  was  the  name 
of  it,  and  the  manner  of  its  preparatia  j  the  follow- 
ing: Cut  up  an  egg  plant  (aubergine)  into  slices, 
salt  them,  strain  them  for  a  few  minutes,  dry  them 
well  in  cloth,  then  fry  them  in  butter  till  they  are  of 
a  rich  brown  color.  Now  chop  up  some  beef  very 
fine,  and  mince  it  carefully  with  some  parsley,  a 
suggestion  of  onion,  pepper  and  salt,  butter,  and  a 
few  fresh  tomatoes  thinly  sliced,  and  stew  these 
things  together  until  the  meat  is  browned.  Next, 
arrange  in  a  pie-dish  or  mould,  layers  of  egg  plant, 
and  layers  of  the  stew.  Pour  a  little  broth  or  gravy 
into  the  mould,  and  bake  in  the  oven  for  about  thirty 
five  minutes.  Turn  the  whole  carefully  out  on  to  a 
dish,  or,  better  still,  serve  in  the  pie-dish.  BROILED 
EGG-PLANT— Small  ones  split  in  halves  lengthwise, 
not  pared,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  oil,  broiled; 
served  the  white  side  up;  butter  sauce.  AUBER- 
GINE A  LA  PROVENCALS — Broiled,  with  ancho- 
vies, fried  onions  and  garlic  in  tomato  sauce.  Ac- 
BERGIXE  FARCIES  A  L'ITALIENNE  —  Halves,  not 
peeled,  fried,  inside  partly  taken  out  and  mixed 
with  chopped  shallots,  mushrooms,  fat  pork,  pars- 
ley, etc.,  put  back,  crumbs  on  top;  baked.  EGG 
PLANT  IN  BATTER — Pared,  sliced,  dropped  for  a 
minute  or  two  in  boiling  salted  water,  or  else  steeped 
an  hour  in  cold  salted  water  to  extract  the  raw  taste, 
dried,  dipped  in  batter,  fried  like  a  fritter,  sprinkled 
with  salt,  served  as  a  vegetable  with  meat.  FRIED 
EGG  PLANT — Sliced,  blanched  or  steeped,  dried, 
egged,  rolled  in  cracker  crumbs,  fried,  sprinkled 
with  salt.  In  France  the  aubergine  or  egg  plant  is 
eaten  in  soups  and  stews. 

ELDERBERRY  The  elder  grows  by  the  side 
of  creeks  almost  everywhere;  the  berries  attain  a 
somewhat  larger  size  and  juicier  condition,  how- 
ever, in  cool  summer  climates.  ELDERBERRY  SYRUP 
— The  expressed  juice  is  boiled  with  sugar,  cloves, 
cinnamon  and  sugar,  bottled  and  used  to  make  hot 
drinks.  ELDERBERRIES  IN  PIES — They  are  mixed 
with  apples  and  thus  give  a  flavor,  a  new  fruit  in 

effect.     ELDERBERRY  CATSUP Berries  with  boil 

ing  vinegar,  salt  and  spices;  used  for  fish  sauce. 
ELDER  BRANDY — The  juice  with  some  spirits  ad- 
ded. ELDER  WINE — Boiled  juice  with  sugar,  spices 
and  yeast,  fermented,  racked  off  and  bottled.  At 
a  hotel  at  Hastings,  Douglas  Jerrold  was  dining 
with  two  friends,  one  of  whom,  after  dinner,  ordered 
a  bottle  of  old  port.  "Waiter,"  added  Jerrold,  with 
a  significant  twinkle  of  his  eye,  "mind  now,  a  bottle 
of  your  old  port,  not  elder  port."  BEIGNETS  DE 
FLEURS  DE  SUHEAU — Fritters  of  sprigs  of  elder 
flowers. 

ELEPHANT'S  FEET-Elephant's  feet,  pickled 
in  strong  toddy  .vinegar  and  cayenne  pepper,  are 
considered  in  Ceylon  an  Apician  luxury.  The 
taste  is  said  to  resemble  buffalo's  hump.  The  native 
of  South  Africa  loves  nothing  better  than  a  slice  of 
roast  elephant. 


EPI 

ELK — Game  still  found  plentiful  in  North  Amer- 
ica; good  meat  but  not  choice  game;  the  flesh  is  more 
like  dark  beef  than  like  venison,  without  the  good 
flavor  of  either;  is  best  cooked  in  steaks;  can  be 
cooked  and  sauced  in  any  of  the  ways  suitable  for 
beef. 

EMINCE  (Fr.)— Mince. 

ENDIVE — Chicory;  cooked  as  spinach ;  used  as 
lettuce  for  salads.  ENDIVE  SALAD  A  LA  FRANCAISE 
— The  white  leaves  only  are  good.  The  salad  bowl 
is  rubbed  with  garlic  and  endive  cut  up  in  it;  i  tt-a- 
spoon  salt,  little  pepper,  5  tablespoons  oil,  2  table- 
spoons vinegar.  Two  crusts  rubbed  on  garlic;  to 
be  stirred  about  in  the  salad  then  taken  out. 

ENTRECOTE— Rib  steak  of  beef.  ENTRECOTE 
DE  PORC—  A  pork  steak  or  slice  cut  anywhere.  EN- 

TRECOTES  DE  BOEUF  A  LA    BORDELAISE —Thick   rib 

steaks;  broiled,  with  Bordelaise  sauce  and  beef  nar- 
row. 

ENTREES — Small  meats  made  up  in  various 
guises  with  sauces  and  garnishings,  as  distin- 
guished from  the  principal  joints  and  roasts. 

ENTREMETS — Term  rarely  used.  French  name 
for  made  dishes  of  vegetables,  sundry  savories,  pud- 
dings, creams,  something  less  than  an  entree. 
"Another  Traite  de  la  Cuisine  had  just  then  been 
published,  by  one  Menon  it  would  appear,  but  it  was 
a  mere  rechauffe  of  Massialot's  work.  This  long 
forgotten  gift  of  the  god  of  revelry  took  so  well  that 
three  years  later  Marin,  the  'Officer,' — the  cook  no 
less— who  produced  it  issued  a  sequal  in  three  vol- 
umes, with  a  preface  by  De  Querlon.  The  first  point 
in  the  history  of  cookery  that  strikes  one  is  that  en- 
tremets were  just  then  beginning  to  get  confounded 
with  hors  doeuvres,  and  these  with  entrees;  the  re- 
cent revolution  in  taste  had  extended  even  to  the 
order  of  the  dishes.  Except  in  'repasts  of  cere- 
mony,' there  were  no  fixed  rules;  and  Marin,  while 
on  the  subject  remarked,  under  the  head  of  Spring, 
that  the  sterility  of  that  season  left  him  no  entre- 
mets but  ham,  or  what  his  skill  could  evolve  out  of 
vegetables." 

EPAULE  (Fr.)— Shoulder.  EPAULE  D'  AGNEAU 
— Shoulder  of  lamb. 

EPERLANS  (Fr.)— Smelts. 

EPICURE — A  dainty  eater;  a  discriminator  in 
diet;  a  critic  of  flavors;  an  analyst  of  taste.  "  Mr. 
Lvnch  is  an  epicure,  and  that  reminds  me  of  a  story 
the  captain  of  my  yacht  tells.  Two  Englishmen 
were  discussing  the  subject  of  eating,  and  one  says 
to  the  other:  'Ennery,  vot  is  a  h'epicure?'  The 
answer  was:  'O,  a  h'epicure?  Why,  a  h'epicure 
is  a  bloke  as  will  h'eat  h'ennything.'  " 

EPIGRAMME— Said  to  be  from  epigast,  the 
lower  part  of  the  breast,  but  here  is  a  different  ex- 
planation: "  In  the  days  when  French  tax-farmers 
were  as  remarkable  for  their  ignorance  as  for  their 
wealth,  a  gentleman  observed  to  one  of  them  that  he 
had  been  dining  with  a  poet  who  regaled  him  with 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


315 


EPI 

en  epigram.  Envious  and  angry,  the  dull  fellow 
rushed  home  and  demanded  of  his  cook  'how  it  came 
that  no  epigrams  were  served  up  at  his  table?'  The 
chef  fortunately  had  wit  and  fancy  equal  to  the 
emergency,  and  at  the  next  dinner  he  served  to  his 
employer  appeared  an  epigram  of  lamb.  This  was 
well  contrived.  Poetical  epigrams  usually  consist 
in  French  of  alternate  verses.  The  lamb  consisted 
of  alternate  cutlets,  one  set  of  the  ordinary  kind,  cut 
from  the  neck;  the  other  made  out  of  the  breast  of 
lamb — brazed,  boned,  pressed  between  two  dishes, 
and,  when  cold,  carved  into  cutlet  shapes  decorated 
with  asparagus  points."  EPIGRAMME  DE  MoUTON — 
The  breast  cooked  in  stock  till  tender,  bones  pulled 
out  and  reserved,  meat  chopped  and  made  xip  as  for 
croquettes;  flat  croquettes  made  of  it,  egged,  breaded, 
bone  stuck  in  each  to  imitate  cutlet,  fried.  Regular 
mutton  chops  also  prepared  and  one  of  each  served 
to  each  person,  with  peas  or  asparagus.  EPIGRAM- 
ME DE  VOLAILLE — Breast  of  chicken  neatly  shaped, 
and  flat  croquettes  made  of  the  other  parts,  served 
together  with  sauce,  etc. 

EPIXARDS  (Fr.)— Spinach. 

ESCALOPES  (Fr.)— Thin  slices;  scollops  or 
collops  of  beef,  veal,  mutton,  pork,  etc.  ESCALOPES 
DE  Ris  DE  VEAU  AU  SUPREME — Slices  of  veal  sweet- 
breads saute  in  butter;  served  with  supreme  sauce. 
ESCALOPES  DE  DINDE  EN  BLANQUETTE  —  Turkey 
breast  in  white  cream-sauce.  ESCALOPES  DE  LAPE- 
REAU  AU  FUMET — Collops  or  fillets  of  rabbits  baked 
in  rabbit  essence  or  reduced  stock  of  rabbit  carcass. 

ESCAROLE— Broad -leaved  endive. 

ESCHALOTTE  (Fr.)  — Shallot;  mild  kind  of 
onion. 

ESPAGNOLE  SAUCE— A  stock  sauce  or  brown 
gravy  kept  on  hand  by  cooks  to  form  the  basis  of 
other  sauces;  made  by  frying-  together  carrots,  on- 
ions, veal,  ham,  aromatic  herbs,  and  some  spices, 
adding  broth,  wine,  tomatoes,  flour,  butter;  strained, 
boiled  and  skimmed  until  bright  brown. 

ESTRAGON— Tarragon ;  a  garden  herb,  used  to 
flavor  vinegar  and  soups,  sauces,  etc.  ESTRAGON 
SAUCE — White  broth  thickened,  with  chopped  tarra- 
gon and  tarragon  vinegar. 

ESTURGEON  (Fr.)— Sturgeon. 

EVENTAIL  AUX  CERISES  — Fan-form  of 
strips  of  puff -paste  on  a  bed  of  marmalade  and 
cherries. 

EXCELLENT  AU  CAFE— See  Ices. 

EXCELLENT  PUDDING— A  boiled  plum  pud- 
ding goes  by  that  name;  made  of  i  Ib.  each  suet, 
flour,  sugar,  raisins,  currants;  J^  Ib.  bread  crumbs, 
some  citron,  grated  lemon-peel,  nutmeg,  ginger, 
salt,  rum,  8  eggs  (omitting  4  of  the  whites);  suet  and 
dry  goods  mixed;  sugar,  eggs  and  rum  to  moisten; 
boiled  in  a  bag  6  hours. 

EXTRACT  OF  BEEF— A  very  useful  prepara- 
tion for  enriching  consommes  and  gravies,  and  niak- 


FEC 

ing  soup  without  muc1.  previous  preparation  of  stock 
The  Australian  and  Brazilian  extracts  are  the  like- 
liest to  be  genuine,  if  in  original  packages,  for  the 
reason  that  animals  are  killed  there  «n  some  places 
for  their  hides  only,  there  being  no  market  for  the 
meat  other  than  the  demand  from  the  extract  of 
meat  manufacturers.  It  is  put  up  in  bladders,  almost 
dried  to  solidity.  That  manufactured  in  the  states 
can  be  bought  reasonably  in  cans,  but  in  the  small 
pots  is  too  expensive  for  most  hotels  and  restaurants. 

F. 

FAISAN  (Fr.)— Pheasant. 

FAIRY  BUTTER  — Yolk  of  hard-boiled  eggs 
pounded  with  butter,  powdered  sugar  and  flavor- 
ings. 

FAIRY  GINGERBREAD— Cakes  crisp  and  but- 
tery, as  thin  as  cards;  made  of  i  cup  butter,  2  cups 
sugar,  i  cup  milk,  4  cups  flour,  i  tablespoon  ginger; 
spread  extremely  thin  on  pans  buttered,  but  cold; 
baked  in  slack  oven;  cut  in  squares  while  warm. 

FALERXIAN  WINE— Classical  allusion  often 
met  with,  having  reference  to  famous  wines  of  old 
Rome. 

FANCHONETTES-The  common  English  name 
of  the  whole  assortment  is  cheese-cake.  They  are 
patty-pan  tartlets,  filled  with  various  custard  mix- 
tures, such  as  lemon  or  chocolate-pie  stuff,  or  lemon 
honey,  with  frosting  on  top;  should  be  ornamented 
with  piping  besides. 

FARCE  (Fr.)— Forcemeat;  stuffing. 

FARCIE  (Fr.)-Stuffed. 

FARINA — Pudding  material  made  from  wheat; 
it  is  like  sifted  corn -meal  to  the  touch.  There  are 
two  kinds,  one  being  Graham  farina,  which  is  used 
principally  for  making  mush  or  porridge  for  break- 
fast or  supper;  takes  3  oz.  to  a  quart  of  water  or  milk; 
requires  long  cooking  in  a  bain-marie  or  double 
kettle;  pastry  cooks  let  it  simmer  in  milk  for  pud- 
dings at  side  of  the  range,  then  mix  in  sugar,  butter 
and  eggs,  and  bake.  FARINA  CUSTARD  PUDDING — 
Made  thin  with  farina  boiled  in  milk,  and  thickened 
with  sufficient  yolks,  sugar,  butter,  flavoring ;  baked; 
served  with  sauce.  BOILED  FARINA  PUDDING — 
Made  with  3  oz.  in  i  qt.  milk;  simmered  till  thick, 
little  sugar,  butter,  2  yolks;  served  in  saucers  with 
thick  lemon -syrup  sauce.  CONSOMME  WITH  FA- 
RINA— Soup  first  made  clear;  i  oz.  farina  to  each  qt., 
washed,  and  simmered  in  it  till  transparent.  FA- 
RINA CUP  CUSTARD— Boiled  custard,  of  i  oz.  to  i  qt. 
milk,  well  cooked  in  it,  4  yolks  to  each  qaart,  sugar, 
flavor;  made  cold  in  ice  water;  served  in  cups.  FA- 
RINA ICE-CREAM  —  Cup-custard  frozen;  it  is  also 
called  Frozen  Farina-Pudding. 

FAWN — A  young  deer;  is  roasted,  served  with 
currant  jelly. 

FAUSSE  TORTUE  (Fr.)-Mock  or  false  turtle. 

FECULA  (Fr.)— Potato  flour,  or  starch. 

FECULA  DE  MAIS -Corp  -starch. 


316 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


FEN 

FENXEL— A  garden  plant  much  cultivated  in 
England,  which  also  grows  wild  in  Florida;  es- 
teemed as  a  flavoring  accompaniment  to  boiled 
mackerel  and  salmon.  It  is  as  much  a  matter,  of 
course,  to  boil  fennel  with  mackerel  as  to  serve  mint 
with  lamb  and  peas.  The  green  leaves  tied  in 
bunches  are  used;  they  are  of  the  feathery  sort, 
somewhat  resembling  asparagus  leaves.  FENNEL 
SAUCE — Made  same  as  parsley  sauce;  a  spoonful  of 
chopped  fennel  stirred  into  hot  butter -sauce. 

FERMIERE  (a  la)—  Farmers's  style. 

FETTICUS-Fathen;  lamb's  quarter  and  other 
names;  a  lull,  silvery  green  weed,  grows  on  rich 
spots  of  land  about  farm  houses;  excellent  boiled  as 
spinach. 

FEVES  DE  MARAIS— Marsh  beans;  French 
name  of  the  broad  beans  much  used  in  England. 

FIDELIXI — One  of  the  varieties  of  Italian  paste, 
thicker  than  vermicelli,  thinner  than  spaghetti;  is 
put  up  in  even  lenghts  in  pound  boxes;  used  for 
soups  and  same  as  spaghetti.  FIDELINI  A  LA  Ro- 
YALE— Soup;  made  of  %  Ib.  fidelini,  boiled  in  salted 
water,  drained  out,  put  into  5  pts.  chicken  broth,  6 
yolks,  cup  of  cream,  seasonings,  stirred  up  to 
thicken  without  boiling.  Grated  parmesan  cheese 
served  with  it  separately. 

FIGS — Fresh  figs  are  plentiful  in  Florida  and 
the  Gulf  states,  ahd  are  served  as  breakfast  and  des- 
sert fruit  with  cream;  are  used  in  pies  and  tarts, 
mixed  with  lemon  juice;  are  best,  perhaps,  in  pre- 
serves with  lemon  peel  and  ginger,  an  article  of 
some  prominence  now  among  southern  exported 
products.  DRIED  FIGS — Served  along  with  fresh 
fruits  for  dessert,  also  cut  up  and  used  in  most 
respects  the  same  as  raisins  in  cakes  and  puddings. 
FIG  PIE — Cut  up,  stewed  with  a  cut  lemon  in  syrup, 
made  with  either  a  top  crust  or  with  strips  over. 
FIG  PUDDING  A  L'ITAI.IENNE— Made  of  %  Ib.  figs 
(chopped  fine),  %  Ib.  breadcrumbs,  6  oz.  suet,  6  oz. 
sugar,  2  eggs,  i  teacupful  milk,  nutmeg  as  required; 
boil  or  steam  for  three  hours.  FIG  FRITTERS — 
Steamed  figs  and  fig  fritters  are  new  dishes  at  some 
hotels  and  restaurants  where  they  study  gastro- 
nomic novelties.  FIG  SUE — "  Fig  sue  is  a  favorite 
dish  in  Westmoreland.  It  is  made  in  the  following 
manner  by  the  better -class  people:  J^  Ib.  figs  (cut 
up  small),  %  Ib.  bread,  2  oz.  currants,  %  Ib.  sugar, 
J^  pt.  beer.  Put  in  a  pan,  simmer  half  an  hour, 
serve  as  a  pudding.  There  is  another  method,  same 
ingredients,  but  with  home-made  beer,  about  a  pint 
of  strong  ale  being  added  after  boiling.  This  is 
eaten  out  of  basins  like  soup.  Fig  sue  is  also  simi- 
larly prepared  with  milk  in  the  place  of  beer  in  the 
rural  districts,  sometimes  thickened  with  oatmeal. 
It  is  in  great  favor  here  with  all  classes,  and  is 
taken  at  dinner,  tea,  or  at  night,  Good  Friday  being 
the  principal  day  of  consumption."  FIG  PUDDING 
— Boiled  pudding,  made  of  4  oz.  suet,  5  oz.  bread- 
crumbs, 5  oz.  figs  finely  minced,  $  tablespoons  sugar, 
z  eggs,  salt;  boiled  in  a  mould  3  hours;  brandy 


FIL 

sauce.  Fir,  PASTE — Only  a  name  for  a  kind  of  gum 
drops  compound,  no  figs  about  it.  The  original 
name  is  Turkish,  not  adapted  to  be  taken  along  with 
the  confection.  Made  of  12  Ibs.  sugar,  3  Ibs.  glu- 
cose, ij£  Ibs.  corn  starch,  3  gallons  water,  %  oz. 
citric  acid.  Water  and  sugar  boiled,  starch  wetted 
and  added,  then  the  acid  and  glucose;  stirred  con- 
stantly and  cooked  until  it  leaves  the  fingers  in  cool- 
ing. Variously  flavored,  colored,  cut  and  shaped 
in  powdered  s-igar. 

FIG-PECKER— Small  bird  that  divides  honors 
with  the  ortolan  among  European  bon-vivants. 

FILBERT— Well-known  nut  of  the  hazel-nut 
kind;  served  at  dessert  either  with  nut-crackers  or, 
if  that  is  not  convenient,  the  nuts  ready  cracked  be- 
fore being  served  in  the  baskets.  FILBEKT  SOUP — 
"  I  wonder  whether  any  modern  chef  possesses  a 
recipe  for  the  puree  of  walnuts  which  George  IV 
frequently  devoured?  The  foundation  was  a  very- 
strong  game  stock  made  from  pheasants  or  par- 
tridges, and  the  walnuts  were  well  pounded  and 
blended  with  cream.  It  was  a  fellow  soup  to  the 
puree  of  filberts,  which  was  the  favorite  dish  with 
his  majesty  in  autumn,  and  which  also  was  made 
with  pheasants  or  partridges."  FILBERT  CREAMS 
—Same  \vays  as  almonds.  BISQUE  OF  FILBERTS— 
Ice  cream  with  pounded  filberts,  same  way  as  al- 
monds. FILBERT  BUTTER — Is  a  nice  addition  to 
sandwiches,  or  may  be  used  as  a  small  side-dish. 
To  make  it,  pound  twelve  filbert  kernels  and  three 
ounces  of  butter  thoroughly  in  a  mortar,  and  season 
with  finely  chopped  parsley,  chives,  and  tarragon 
leaves. 

FILLET — A  strip  or  band  of  meat  without  bone. 
FILLET  OF  BEEF  — The  tenderloin  entire,  also  in 
steaks  or  slices  (small  fillets,  filets  mignom;);  it  is  the 
undercut  of  the  sirloin,  the  long  band  of  meat  which 
lies  between  the  kidney  fat  and  the  backbone,  ex- 
tending from  the  small  of  the  back  to  the  hip  joint. 
FILLET  OF  VEAL — The  round  or  fleshy  part  of  the 
leg  of  the  veal;  the  bone  taken  out  it  is  usually 
larded,  stuffed,  coiled  up  and  skewered  to  a  round 
shape.  FILLET  OF  PORK  OR  MUTTON — The  meat  of 
the  saddle  or  middle  of  the  back  taken  from  the 
bone;  or  a  strip  from  one  side,  from  the  shoulder 
blade  to  the  hip;  seldom  named  in  the  menu;  used 
technically  in  cookery  recipes.  FILLETS  OF  FOWL 
— The  breast  in  two  parts,  or  one.  There  is  a  nat- 
ural division  whereby  the  larger  part  leaves  the 
minion  fillet  adhering  to  the  breast  bone.  In  some 
elaborate  dishes  the  two  are  used  separately;  usu- 
ally the  entire  breast  is  meant  when  the  fillet  of  fowl 
is  named.  FILLETS  OF  RABBIT  OR  HARE  —  The 
meatly  part  of  the  back  and  legs,  flattened  and 
shapjd  for  the  various  purposes.  FILLETS  OP 
SOLES— The  English  flat-fish,  called  the  sole,  is  es- 
pecially adapted  in  its  structure  to  make  thin  bands 
of  fish,  which  lend  themselves  readily  to  the  cook's 
purposes  to  roll,  double  over  or  shape  variously; 
hence  fillets  of  soles  are  named  in  menus  ten  times 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


31T 


FIN 

as  frequently  as  the  plain  fish  itself.  FILETS  DE 
SOLES  A  LA  CAREME — The  fillets  pared  and  flattened, 
spread  over  with  fish  forcemeat  containing  truffles 
and  mushrooms,  doubled  together,  laid  in  order  in  a 
buttered  saucepan,  %  bottle  chablis,  aromatics,  set 
in  the  oven  for  20  minutes.  Drained,  dished  in 
circular  form,  with  a  ragout  of  prawns  etc.,  in  the 
center,  and  sauce  made  of  the  saucepan  gravy,  meat 
essence  and  tomatoes;  strained.  FILLETS  OF  FISH — 
Thin  fish-steaks  cut  the  long  way;  boneless  sides  of 
fish.  FILLETS  OK  VEGETABLES — "  In  his  eagerness 
to  present  some  novelty  he  even  directs  how  to  serve 
a  dinner  entirely  in  fillets ,'  not  only  are  his  meats 
cut  in  strips,  but  haricots,  carrots,  cucumbers,  leeks, 
and  whatever  else,  are  all  shredded  to  the  fineness 
of  straws;  but  this  savors  more  of  conjuring  than  of 
good  cookery." 

FINANCIERS  GARNISH— Consists  of  brown 
sauce  with  sherry,  lemon,  cock's  combs,  livers, 
quenelles,  pieces  of  sweetbreads,  etc.  Used  to  gar- 
nish a  dish  either  by  filling  in  the  center  or  around 
the  cutlets,  sweetbreads,  birds  or  fillet,  it  gives  the 
designation  a  la  Financiere. 

FINANCIERS  SAUCE— Brown  sauce  made 
with  wine,  lemon,  mushrooms  cut  small,  catsup> 
and  espagnole. 

FINE-HERBS  SAUCE  — Brown  sauce  made 
of  espagnole,  chopped  mushrooms,  shallots  and 
parsley. 

FINES  HERBES  (ai<x)— With  shallots,  mush- 
rooms and  parsley  scattered  over  or  amongst. 
ESCALOPES  DE  Ris  DE  VEAU  AUX  FINES  HERBES — 
Sweetbreads  cut  small  in  a  baking  dish  with  fine 
herbs,  gravy  and  wine;  cooked  in  the  oven. 

FINGER  BISCUITS— Lady-fingers;  Savoy-bis- 
cuits; thin  sponge  cakes  placed  together  in  pairs. 

FINGER  ROLLS— The  Italian  Grissini  bread, 
salt  sticks,  soup  sticks;  finger  shapes  of  crusty 
bread  to  eat  with  soup. 

FINNAN  HADDIES— Commercial  name  and 
trade  brand  of  Findon  haddocks;  smoked  haddocks, 
cooked  by  (i)  broiling,  previously  steeped  in  warm 
water,  (2)  boiliuga  short  time  in  a  shallow  pan; 
buttered  when  done;  (3)  baking  in  a  little  milk  and 
butter!  SAUCE  FOR  "HADDIE"— Butter,  mustard 
and  lemon  juice  made  warm. 

FISH  QUOTATIONS-for  menus:  "  Fish  is  no 
less  important  to  a  good  dinner  than  soup.  There 
is  an  Oriental  proverb,  to  the  effect  that  'your  Arab 
despises  fish,'  which  as  the  Arabs  dwell  where  fish 
are  not,  is  equivalent  to  saying,  'the  grapes  are 
sour.'  "  "  St.  Kevin,  a  religious  gentleman  who 
lived  by  the  fish  he  caught  in  one  of  the  Irish  lakes, 
was  subjected  to  a  severe  temptation  on  one  of  his 
piscatorial  excursions,  but  whether  he  fell  into  the 
snare  laid  for  him  or  not,  I  do  not  now  remember. 
It  seems  that  a  belle  of  that  ilk,  named  Kate,  put  the 
following  leading  question  to  him: 

'You're  a  rare  hand  at  fishing,'  says  Kate. 

'  It's  yourself  dear,  that  knows  how  to  hook  'em: 


FIS 

But  when  you  have  caught  'm,  agrah ! 

Don't  you  want  a  young  woman  to  cook  'em?' 

If  St.  Kevin  said  'No,' he  was  not  the  Irishman  I 
take  him  to  have  been."  "Fishes  are  welcome  at 
every  meal,  but  they  are  peculiarly  adapted  for  break- 
fast. Not  one  would  we  banish;  neither  regal  sal- 
mon, nor  lordly  turbot;  voracious  cod,  nor  delicate 
whiting;  giant  perch,  nor  accommodating  sole; 
bladderless  mackerel,  nor  musical  skate;  savage 
pike,  nor  lowly  herring;  pretentious  mullet,  nor 
common  haddock — no,  not  even  the  vulgar  plaice. 
They  are  delicate,  they  are  easy  of  digestion,  and 
they  take  kindly  to  any  flavoring  the  most  erratic 
palate  may  desire.  Hence  it  is  that  they  are  so 
valuable  at  the  first  meal."  "In  order  to  know  what 
cod  really  is,  you  musl  eat  it  at  Newfoundland^ 
Herring  is  not  worthy  of  the  name  except  on  the 
banks  of  Lochfyne,  in  Argyleshire;  and  the  best 
salmon  in  the  whole  world  is  that  of  the  Boyne." 
"A  good  sea  fish  is  spoiled  with  too  great  refine- 
ment in  this  matter;  all  it  needs  is  a  clean  gridiron, 
or  a  boiling  kettle,  a  hot  plate,  sweet  bread  and  but- 
ter. If  a  sauce  is  desired,  do  not  take  anchovy  be- 
cause it  is  'the  thing,'  but  try  the  more  homely  re- 
cipe of  the  great  Edingburgh  epicures:  'Ketchup 
(mushroom),  mustard,  cayenne,  butter,  amalga- 
mated on  your  own  plate  by  your  own  hand,  each 
man  according  to  his  proportion."  This  is  for  witty 
paragraphers,  to  say  something  about  hotel  salt 
mackerel;  the  Nevada  salt  fish  mines  are  still  doing 
business :  "During  the  sinking  of  large  pits  and  wells 
in  Nevada  stratas  of  rock  salt  were  cut  through,  in 
which  were  found  imbedded  perfectly  preserved 
fish,  which  are  doubtless  thousands  of  years  old,  as 
the  salt  field  occupies  what  was  once  the  bottom  of 
a  large  lake,  and  no  such  fish  are  now  to  be  found  in 
any  of  the  modern  Nevada  lakes.  The  specimens 
are  not  petrified,  but  flesh,  and  all  are  preserved  in 
perfect  form,  and  after  being  soaked  in  water  for 
two  or  three  days  can  be  cooked  and  eaten;  but  are 
not  very  palatable.  After  being  exposed  to  the  air  and 
sun  for  a  day  or  two  they  become  as  hard  as  wood." 
A  traveler,  Wayett  Gill,  says:  "  I  am  interested  in 
the  discussion  going  on  at  home  about  fish  as  food 
for  the  brain.  For  years  past  there  has  been  annually 
resident  in  the  training  institution  at  Raratonga 
from  fifty  to  seventy  natives  of  the  various  islands 
of  the  South  Pacific.  The  most  quick-witted  stu- 
dents come  from  the  low  coral  islands  and  have 
grown  to  manhood  on  a  diet  of  fish  and  cocoanuts. 
In  muscular  strength,  however,  and  in  the  power  of 
endurance  they  are  decidedly  inferior  to  the  inhabi- 
tants of  volcanic  islands  who  used  a  mixed  diet." 
FISH  STEW — The  meat  being  cut  from  the  bones  of 
any  kind  of  fish,the  bones.heads  and  tails  are  boiled  in 
water  with  onion  and  any  kind  of  herb  or  vegetable 
seasonings  to  make  a  fish  broth  or  cullis;  some  roux 
of  butter  and  flour  is  stirred  over  the  fire  in  another 
sauce-pan  and  the  fish  broth  strained  to  it,  making 
a  slightly  thickened  soup.  The  pieces  of  fish  are 
stewed  in  this,  with  such  additions  as  may  be  avail- 


318 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


FIS 

able,  shrimps,  perhaps  oysters,  perhaps  tomatoes, 
white  wine  or  cider  and  mushrooms,  or  only  parsley 
and  butter,  or  sliced  potatoes.  These  additions  are 
what  give  the  different  names  to  the  dishes.  BAKED 
FISH — Perhaps  the  least  troublesome  mode  of  cook- 
jng  fish  is  to  bake  it.  Any  fish  in  slices,  or  of  small 
size,  can  be  so  served  by  putting  it  on  a  well- 
buttered  dish  with  herbs,  lemon  juice, vinegar,  mush- 
rooms, a  glass  of  white  wine,  a  little  stock,  anchovy 
sauce,  or  anything  else  that  the  sense  of  the  cook 
may  suggest,  and  covering  it  with  brown  bread- 
crumbs or  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper.  A  few  minutes 
will  make  it  ready  for  table,  and  all  it  wants  is  to 
be  slipped  an  a  dish  and  garnished.  Fishes  care- 
fully stuffed  and  baked  whole  are  generally  nice;  it 
is  a  method  very  well  suited  to  fresh-water  fish,  and 
a  delicious  way  of  cooking  mullet  or  a  dish  of  whit- 
ing. FISH  PIES — Cornwall  and  Wales  are  famous 
for  their  fish  pies.  This  is  by  no  means  a  despicable 
way  of  cooking  fish,  if  they  are  tender  and  not  bony. 
Eels,  bass,  all  kinds  of  flat  fish,  lobsters,  shrimps, 
and  oysters  are  mostly  used.  The  rule  is  to  remove 
all  bones,  fins,  etc. ;  and  when  the  pie  is  nearly  done, 
to  uncover  it  partially,  drain  off  the  liquor,  and  add 
cream  in  its  place,  and  then  return  a  few  minutes  to 
the  oven.  Pies  made  of  herring  and  pilchard  have 
a  plentiful  allowance  of  scalded  leeks  in  them. 
FISH  SAUSAGES— An  appetizing  and  novel  form  of 
sausage  made  from  the  best  portions  of  the  dogger - 
bank  cod,  and  other  white-fleshed  fish,  directly  they 
are  landed  from  the  fisherman's  boats.  They  are 
delicately  and  agreeably  seasoned,  and  may  be  had 
either  quite  fresh  or  after  having  been  lightly 
smoked.  Fried,  boiled,  curried,  or  otherwise  treated 
they  afford  a  variety  of  excellent  dishes.  PULLED 
FiSH--Cold  boiled  fish  pulled  in  pieces;  to  i  Ib.  fish 
J£  pt.  cream,  tablespoon  mustard,  i  do.  anchovy 
essence,  i  do.  catsup,  pepper,  salt,  butter  and  flour 
to  thicken;  hot  in  sauce-pan.  PATE  DE  Poissox  A 
LA  RUSSE — A  specialty  at  Guntor's,  London.  A 
cold  raised  fish  pie,  for  balls,  suppers  and  luncheons, 
made  of:  a  raised  pie  case  in  a  mould,  filleted  soles 
stewed  with  mushrooms,  parsley,  onions,  wine. 
Fillets  taken  out,  mushrooms,  shallots,  etc.,  chopped 
and  mixed  in  Duxelles  sauce.  A  layer  of  fillets 
soles,  in  the  pie  case,  layer  of  compound  sauce,  layer 
of  pickled  lobster,  layer  of  mayonnaise  sauce,  few 
shrimps,  truffles,  repeated  till  case  is  full,  gelatine 
in  the  fish  liquor  to  make  jelly,  poured  in  when 
nearly  set;  not  to  be  baked ;  crust  baked  beforehand 
with  filling  of  flour.  This  is  a  fish  aspic  in  form  of 
a  pie.  COLD  FISH  CUTLETS— Croquettes,  or  imita- 
tion shapes  of  cutlets,  made  of  cold  fish  in  sauce 
breaded  and  fried;  served  hot;  sauce.  COLD  FISH 
BElGNETS-Fish,  butter,  crumbs,  seasonings,  pound- 
ed to  a  paste;  pieces  breaded  and  rolled  in  grated 
cheese,  baked  in  pan  with  little  butter.  COLD  FISH 
SCALLOPED — Pulled  flakes  of  fish  in  scallops  or  clam 
shells;  mustard,  butter,  cayenne,  lemon  juice,  salt, 
mixed,  poured  over  fish,  crumbs  on  top,  baked. 
COLD  FISH  SALAD — Pieces  sprinkled  with  lemon 
juice  along  whh  lettuce  and  ^alad  dressing. 


FLU 

FLAGEOLETS— Haricots  flageolets;  the  green 
seed  beans  shelled  out  of  string  beans.  They  can 
be  bought  in  cans  same  as  French  peas  and  are  as 
green;  the  beans  soused  are  of  special  green-seeded 
kinds.  Used  as  a  choice  vegetable  for  course  din- 
ners, club  dishes,  etc. 

FLAMAXDE  {a  la)— In  Flemish  or  Holland 
stvle. 

FLAX  (Fr.) — An  open  tart  with  custard  on  top  of 
the  fruit.  FLAN  DE  PEACHES — A  paste  crust  laid  in 
the  baking  pan  is  covered  with  either  preserved  or 
thick  stewed  peaches  or  else,  in  the  season  with  soft 
ripe  peaches  and  cream;  a  6-eerg  custard  poured 
over,  baked  till  custard  is  set;  cut  in  squares  when 
cold. 

FLEMISH  SAUCE— Butter  sauce  made  \ellow 
with  yolks  and  mustard;  vinegar,  parsley,  nutmeg, 
pepper. 

FLITCH  OF  BACON— English  name  for  a 
whole  side  of  dry  salt  pork;  any  large  piece  of  side 
meat. 

FLOAT — An  American  culinary  term  equivalent 
to  floating  island,  used  to  denote  several  nondescript 
trifles  among  the  sweets.  SNOW  FLOAT — Whipped 
jelly  served  in  a  saucer  of  custard.  RASPBERRY 
FLOAT-Raspberry  jam  mingled  with  whipped  white 
of  an  egg  or  v.-hipped  cream,  served  by  spoonfuls  in 
a  saucer  of  custard. 

FLOATIXG  ISLAND— Various  cold  sweets  go 
by  the  name.  (/)-A  small  sponge  cake  spread  with 
jelly,  floating  in  boiled  custard.  (2)- A  jelly  cake  or 
sponge  cake  floating  in  a  bowl  of  cream  flavored 
with  wine.  (j)-SpoonfuIs  of  whipped  white  of  egg 
dropped  on  the  surface  of  a  dish  of  custard,  baked 
long  enough  to  slightly  color.  (^)-Spoonfuls  of 
whipped  whites,  sweetened,  poached  in  boilng  milk, 
served  in  a  dish  of  cold  custard.  (j)-Hollow  merin- 
gues or  macaroons  served  floating  in  cream  flavored 
with  wine. 

FLOUNDERS — A  common  and  well  known  flat 
fish  found  at  the  mouth  of  rivers,  near  the  sea;  good 
to  cut  across  and  fry;  is  sometimes  made  to  repre- 
sent the  sole;  being  skinned  and  filleted.  FLOUN- 
DERS, WHITE  WINE  SAUCE— Two  flounders  skinned 
on  the  dark  side,  scraped  on  white  side,  stewed  20 
minutes  in  white  wine,  water,  butter,  salt,  pepper; 
Liken  up,  sauce  thickened  with  flour.  FLOUN- 
DERS A  LA  JULES  JANIN — Two  flounders,  dark  side 
skinned,  heads  removed,  slit  down  back  and  bone 
taken  out;  incision  filled  with  fish  forcemeat,  baked 
with  sherry  and  oyster  liquor,  sauce  made  of  pan 
liquor  and  espagnole  with  butter  and  lemon;  gar- 
nish of  oysters  and  mushrooms. 

FLOUR — A  barrel  of  good  flour  should  make 
from  270  to  285  five-cent  loaves.  Many  bakers  blend 
Pour  barrels,  as  two  Minnesota  springs  and  two  In- 
diana winters,  before  they  get  the  right  alloy. 

FLUKE — A  northern  sea-fish,  found  in  Canadian 
narkets;  a  flounder. 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


319 


FOI 

FOIE-GRAS— Fat  liver;  especially  designating 
the  livers  of  fat  geese;  a  comestible  of  great  prom- 
inence on  all  sides  of  French  cookery;  but,  as  in  the 
case  of  high-flavored  cheese,  herbs,  spices,  curry, 
etc.,  the  taste  for  the  preparations  oi  foies-gras  has 
to  be  acquired,  and  there  is  but  a  limited  apprecia- 
tion of  it  here.  "The  goose  is  a  bird  that,  after  it 
is  dead,  constantly  thrusts  itself  on  the  stranger's 
attention  in  Austria.  Its  apparition  is  frequent  on 
the  tables  and  hotels  at  Vienna,  and  it  reappears 
more  frequently  as  you  descend  the  Danube.  It  is 
the  most  chosen  viand  at  Buda-Pesth.  Here  it 
achieves  its  apotheosis.  But  it  is  not  so  much  to  the 
bird  itself  as  to  that  important  organ,  its  liver,  that 
I  desire  to  direct  attention.  The  local  commerce  in 
this  delicacy  is  considerable.  On  certain  streets  the 
attention  of  the  pedestrian  is  attracted  by  the  coun- 
terfeit presentment  of  a  goose,  dead  and  cooked,  be- 
side which  is  a  painted  object  so  nearly  like  that  he 
is  aware  it  is  the  liver  of  the  deceased  bird.  This 
sign  indicates  a  shop  whose  sole  business  is  to  sell 
roasted  goose  cut  in  pieces,  goose  livers  and  a  sort 
of  biscuit  made  of  chopped  goose  and  flour.  Here 
is  a  temptation  to  those  who  are  fond  of  pate  de 
foie-gras.  On  entering,  the  dealer  is  discovered 
standing  behind  a  huge  tray  filled,  with  livers  ar- 
ranged in  rows,  armed  with  a  fork  resembling  Nep- 
tune's  trident.  He  passes  the  trident  mystically 
over  the  livers  and  names  the  prices — 20  kreutzers, 
25  kreutzers,  30,  40,  50  kreutzers,  the  latter  being 
from  giant  birds  and  weighing  nearly  a  pound. 
You  take  one  of  the  smallest  as  a  starter,  and  a  bis- 
cuit, and,  adjourning  to  a  neighboring  wine-shop, 
properly  adjust  your  digestive  apparatus  to  the  unc- 
tuous viand  with  a  'fourth'  of  white  Hungarian 
wine.  No  bad  result  follows,  as  with  the  artificially 
fattened  livers  that  cost  their  weight  in  gold  in 
America.  Your  digestion  continues  excellent.  What 
is  the  effect?  The  next  day  you  come  back  and  buy 
a  liver  twice  the  size,  take  two  rations  of  biscuit  and 
wash  the  repast  down  with  a  'half  of  the  same 
wine,  and  so  on.  As  this  ratio  of  increase  cannot 
go  on  forever,  you  find  yourself  obliged  to  leave  the 
town  a  day  or  two  sooner  than  you  intended,  to  sub- 
due a  growing  appetite,  taking  with  you  in  your  va- 
lise a  few  pounds  of  goose  livers  to  satisfy  the  pangs 
of  hunger  and  solace  the  regret  of  parting,  for  you 
know,  when  you  have  left  the  Danube  you  can  see 
this  luxury  no  more."  PATE  DE  FOIE-GRAS — Pie 
of  fat  liver.  "The  individual  who  first  discovered 
the  real  use  to  which  Dame  Nature  had  predestfned 
the  goose — that  of  having  its  liver  abnormally  fat- 
tened— reaped  a  fortune  from  his  penetration  and  his 
ingenuity.  His  name  was  Close,  and  he  was  chef 
de  cuisine  to  Marshal  de  Coutades,  Governor  of 
Strasburg;  hence  the  association  of  that  town  with 
pate  de  foie-gras.  The  idea  occurred  to  him  one 
day  that  he  would  make  a  pie  from  the  livers  of  some 
extremely  fat  geese  which  were  hanging  in  the 
larder;  and  the  pie  being  made,  the  Marshal  was  de- 
lighted, and  at  once  gave  an  order  that  henceforth 


FOX 

the  dish  was  to  be  included  in  the  daily  dinner,  and 
this  was  done  so  long  as  the  Marshal  was  Governor. 
De  Coutades,  however,  was  displaced,  and  his  suc- 
cessor was  a  Spartan,  who  believed  in  hard,  black 
bread  and  coarse  broth,  and  voted  all  luxuries  as 
sinful.  Under  the  altered  circumstances  the  chef 
Close  resigned.  He  then  comforted  himself  by 
marrying  a  wealthy  Strasburg  widow,  opened  a  pas- 
try-cook's establishment,  and  made  the  pate  defoie- 
gras  his  specialty.  Everybody  who  tasted  it  was 
loud  in  its  praise,  and  the  lucky  cook  made  a  rapid 
fortune,  and  was,  of  course,  the  initiator  of  a  big 
trade.  Other  makers,  who  followed  in  his  wake, 
mixed  truffles  in  their  livers,  much  to  the  satisfaction 
of  epicures."  PATE  DE  FOIE-GRAS — Paste  of  fat 
iivers.  Such  as  comes  from  Strasburg  in  jars.  It  is 
made  by  cooking  the  fat  goose  or  duck  livers  with 
bacon,  wine  and  aromatics,  pounding  it  through  a 
seive,  adding  cut  truffles  to  it,  potting  it  like  potted 
meats.  It  is  used  in  cookery  to  line  pies  made  of 
birds  or  any  game,  the  boned  birds  being  then 
placed  upon  it  alone  with  mushrooms  and  other  sea- 
sonings, and  the  intestices  in  some  styles  are  filled 
in  either  with  the  same  pate  de  f:ie-gras,  or,  raw 
foies-gras,  or  goose  livers,  such  as  the  pies  are  made 
of  are  put  in  as  they  are,  without  cutting  or  mincing. 
IMITATION  PATE  DE  FOIE-GRAS — Calf's  liver  and 
bacon,  shallots,  aromatics,  wine;  slowly  cooked  for 
several  hours  in  a  slack  oven,  pounded,  rubbed 
through  a  seive.  FOIE-GRAS  SANDWICHES — "Foie- 
gras  makes  a  very  good  sandwich  for  luncheon 
purposes,  if  the  public  could  be  gradually  brought 
to  like  it.  The  principal  difficulty  in  some  of  these 
innovations  or  novel  business  uses  for  well-known 
old  culinary  recipes,  is  to  get  the  public  to  under- 
stand or  have  sufficient  confidence  to  try  them." 
COQUILLES  DE  FoiE-GRAS-Same  as  scalloped  dishes; 
made  by  placing  half  a  lerrine  (jar)  of  foie-gras  in 
a  saucepan  with  half  as  much  cooked  mushrooms  or 
truffles;  all  cut  in  small  dice;  sauce  added;  put  into 
silver  or  other  scallop  shells;  breadcrumbs  on  top; 
baked  in  a  pan  with  little  water  under  till  top  is 
browned.  ASPIC  DE  FOIE-GRAS— Squares  or  cubes 
of  foie-gras  in  aspic  jelly.  CROUSTADES  DE  FOIE- 
GRAS —  Fried  bread-shapes  filled  with  dice-cut 
goose  livers  in  rich  wine  gravy.  SMALL  ROLLS 
WITH  FOIE-GRAS- Small  rolls  baked  for  the  pur- 
pose, quite  round,  hollowed  out,  and  pate  de  foie- 
gras  filled  in;  for  ball  suppers  and  lunches. 

FOND  (Fr.)— Bottom;  foot.  FONDS  D'ARTI- 
CH  AUTS — Artichoke  bottoms.  FOND  DU  LAC — Foot 
of  the  lake. 

FONDU  (Fr.)— Melted.  BuERREFoNDU-Melted 
butter. 

FONDUE  (Fr.)  — A  dish  of  cheese  and  eggs 
scrambled  together  with  butter  in  a  frying  pan. 

FONDANT— Cream  fondant;  soft,  white  cand> 
made  by  boiling  sugar  to  the  ball;  then  working  it 
back  and  forth  on  a  marble  slab  w'lh  a  paddle  unti. 
perfectly  white.  Used  for  making  all  the  bon-bons, 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


FOR 

such  as  chocolate  creams,  walnut  creams,  date 
creams,  etc.,  and,  softened  by  heat,  it  is  used  to  ice 
cakes,  being  the  best  icing  for  that  purpose. 

FORCEMEAT— The  various  compounds  used 
to  stuff  fowls,  fish,  pigs,  tomatoes,  egg  plants,  let- 
tuce, etc.  Some  forcemeats  are  composed  princi- 
pally of  chopped  veal  and  bacon  with  herbs  and 
seasonings,  some  of  finely  pounded  chicken  breasts 
bread-crumbs,  butter,  yolks,  etc.  Fish  forcemeat 
is  pounded  fish,  eggs,  butter,  and  flavorings.  Force- 
meat for  egg  plants,  cucumbers  and  tomatoes  con- 
sist of  the  removed  interiors  mixed  with  minced 
onions,  bread-crumbs,  suet  or  butter. 

FOUETTEE  (Fr.)— Whipped,  whisked.    CREM  E 
FOUETTEE— Whipped  cream.     SAUCE  FOUETTEE 
Pudding  sauce  of  wine,  sugar  and  eggs  whipped  to 
froth.     GELEE  FOUETTEE— Russian  jelly,  or  wine 
jelly,  whipped  while  cooling  till  white  and  spongy. 

FRAIS  (Fr.)— Fresh.  BEURRE  FRAIS  — Fresh 
butter. 

FRAISES  (Fr.)— Strawberries. 

FRAMBOISES  (Fr.)— Raspberries. 

FRAXCAISE  (a  la}—  In  French  style. 

FRANCATELLI,  CHARLES  ELME  —  An 
English  chef,  author  of  an  important  culinary  work. 
He  was  a  pupil  of  Careme  and  saw  that  great  artist 
deriving  a  large  income  as  well  as  much  fame  from 
his  published  cook  books,  which  \vere,  however,  all 
in  French,  and  he  took  those  books  and  from  them 
and  his  own  practical  experience  he  deduced  an 
Anglo-French  system,  becoming  the  interpreter  of 
French  culinary  art  to  the  English,  and  giving  the 
country  a  new  set  of  polished  culinary  terms  to  take 
the  place  of  the  old  homely  nomenclature  of  the 
kitchen,  which  had  prevailed  up  to  that  time. 
Among  the  faults  of  his  really  great  work  maybe 
instanced  the  complicated  nature  of  its  directions 
and  the  endless  accessories  to  each  principal  dish, 
leading  the  mind  of  the  would-be  learner  off  to  a 
bewildering  number  of  preparatory  processes  and 
causing  him  to  give  up  the  attempt  in  despair;  its 
studied  avoidance  of  anything  savoring  of  a  simple 
explanation;  its  nursing  of  mystery  and  use  of  ob- 
scure language;  its  covering  up  of  old,  already  well- 
known  and  popular  dishes  with  their  foreign  names, 
as  if  to  make  them  appear  like  new  things  and  pre- 
vent their  immediate  discovery,  and  its  inculcation 
of  extravagance  and  profusion.  This  book  seems 
to  have  passed  immediately  out  of  Francatelli's 
possession  and  became  the  very  valuable  property 
of  the  publishers,  for  the  book  was  favored  by  the 
aristocracy,  it  complimented  many  of  its  members, 
and  sold  well.  The  greatest  profit  of  all,  probably, 
has  been  realized  by  its  American  re-publishers, 
who  have  advertised  it  frantically  and  reaped  rich 
returns.  This,  of  course,  was  of  no  benefit  to  either 
Francatelh  or  his  family.  Of  Francatelli  himself 
it  is  scarcely  possible  to  find  any  printed  particulars. 
He  was  at  one  time  c/ieflo  the  Reform  Club,  cAeflo 


FRI 

the  Queen,  chef  at  the  St  James  Hotel,  Piccadilly, 
London,  manager  of  the  Free  Masons'  Tavern, 
London.  He  died  about  1870.  A  London  hotel, 
advertising  in  1886,  among  other  attractions  an- 
nounced that  the  services  of  Mr.  Francatelli  had 
been  secured  as  chef.  A  London  journal,  noticing 
the  ruse,  hastened  to  proclaim  that  it  was  a  son  of 
the  great  Francatelli  who  had  been  engaged.  About 
the  same  time  an  appeal  for  charity  appeared  in  the 
London  trade  papers  in  behalf  of  FrancatelH's 
daughter,  who  was  described  as  being  in  a  very 
destitute  condition,  and  the  smallest  contributions 
of  those  who  desired  to  lend  a  helping  hand  would 
be  thankfully  received. 

FRANGIPANE— Pastry  cream  or  custard,  such 
as  is  used  to  fill  cream  puffs  and  eclairs;  made  of 
I  qt.  milk,  6  oz.  sugar,  4  oz.  flour,  2  oz.  butter,  6 
yolks,  boiled,  flavored.  Can  be  much  varied,  mixed 
with  whipped  cream,  with  browned  butter,  with 
orange  or  lemon  pulp  or  syrup  for  cream  pies,  tarts, 
fanchonettes,  cheese-cakes,  with  chocolate,  with 
coffee,  cocoanut,  almond  paste,  etc.  When  made 
stiff  enough  and  the  whites  whipped  firm  and  stirred 
in,  it  is  baked  as  souffles  of  all  flavors,  and  either  in 
one  large  mould  or  in  small  souffle1  cases;  it  puffs  up 
in  the  oven,  and  the  souffles  must  be  served  as  soon 
as  done. 

FRANGIPANI  PUDDING— A  well-made  bread 
pudding  is  now  called  a  Frangipani  pudding,  after 
a  powerful  Roman  family,  so  called  from -their  be- 
nevolent distribution  of  bread  during  a  famine. 

FRAPPE  (Fr.)  —  Semi-frozen.  i^See  carafes 
frappees,  champagne  frappee.) 

FRENCH  BEAXS— English  name  for  string 
or  snap  beans. 

FRENCH  DRESSING— Indefinite;  any  salad 
dressing;  yolk  of  egg,  oil,  mustard,  cayenne,  sait; 
mixed  by  stirring  in  a  soup  plate  or  bowl. 

FRENCH  SAUCE  FOR  OYSTERS— A  cruet 
sauce  made  of  2  minced  shallots  steeped  in  4  table- 
spoons lime  juice,  salt  and  crushed  pepper  corns, 
for  6  hours;  lime  juice  strained  off  and  little  tarragon 
vinegar  added. 

FRENCH  ROLLS— Indefinite;  any  good  quality 
hot  rolls;  pocket  book  shaped  rolls,  split  rolls, 
crusty  cleft  rolls,  or  tall,  close -shaped  bakery  rolls. 

FRENCH  BREAD— Indefinite.  The  bread  now 
called  French  is  in  very  long  loaves  of  one  thickness 
from  end  to  end.  At  some  Paris  restaurants  the 
;  bakers  leave  loaves  daily  that  are  from  one  to  two 
;  yards  long.  The  hotel  method  is  to  have  special 
!  pans  made  of  Russia  iron  which  are  5  or  6  narrow 
moulds  all  in  one  piece.  They  are  in  the  common 
eaves-trough  tin  spout  shape,  about  3  inches  across 
and  18  inches  long.  The  ordinary  bread  dough 
baked  in  these  makes  the  favorite  crusty  cylinder- 
shaped  loaf  for  the  dinner  table. 

FRIANTINE  (Fr.)— Tit -bit.  FRIANTINES  AUX 
HUITRES — Bouchees  of  oysters;  small  patties. 


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321 


FRI 

FRIED  CAKES— Domestic  name  for  crullers, 
doughnuts  or  "Jersey  wonders." 

FRIED  PIES— Domestic  name  for  rissoles,  ris- 
solettes,  kromeskies,  or  anything-  made  of  paste, 
folded  and  inclosing  fruit  or  jelly. 

FRICASSEE — Common  name  in  general  use  for 
a  stew  without  special  characteristics  further  than 
the  division  of  white  fricassee  or  brown.  Originally 
it  meant  a  fry  with  a  sauce.  (Set  Frogs.*) 

FRICANDEAU  — A  larded  cushion  of  veal, 
braised,  or  browned  in  the  oven;  also  an  imitation 
of  the  same,  made  of  a  mixture  of  cooked  and  raw 
meat  weil  seasoned,  made  up  so  as  to  be  served  in 
broad  slices.  FRICANDEAU  OF  STURGEON— Pieces 
of  sturgeon  about  5  inches  thick,  skinned  and  larded 
with  bacon;  laid  larded  side  downwards  in  a  stew- 
pan  with  bacon,  and  fried  till  the  larding  is  brown. 
Taken  up,  put  in  a  baking  dish  with  mushrooms, 
moistened  with  essence  of  ham  or  brown  sauce 
with  ininced  ham  and  onions;  the  larded  side  up- 
wards, baked  for  an  hour. 

FRICAXDELLES— A  mixture  of  chopped  meat 
either  cooked  or  raw  or  mixed,  with  some  fat  and 
bread-crumbs  and  an  egg,  seasoned,  made  into  pats 
and  fried. 

FRITOT  (Fr.) — The  original  fricassee;  chicken 
cut  into  joints,  floured,  fried,  served  with  cream 
sauce.  FRITOT  DE  POUI.ET  AUX  TOMATES— The 
chicken  cut  up,  steeped  in  oil  with  onions,  floured, 
fried ;  tomato  sauce. 

FRITTO  (It.)— A  fry  or  a  fritter;  same  as  frilot. 

FRITTQ  MISTO  (It.)— Mixed  fry.  (Set  Italian 
cookery.) 

FRITTER — Something  inclosed  in  a  flour  batter 
and  fried  by  immersion  in  hot  fat.  FRUIT  FRITTERS 
—  Slices  or  quarters  of  large  fruit,  spoonfuls  of 
berries,  dipped  in  batter,  taken  up  with  a  spoon  and 
dropped  into  frying  fat.  QUEEN  FRITTERS — Puffs 
or  hollow  fritters  made  of  same  mixture  as  cream 
puffs,  fried  instead  of  baked.  BEIGNETS  SOUFFLES 
— Same  as  queen  fritters.  SPANISH  PUFFS— A  vari- 
ation of  queen  fritters,  containing  a  little  sugar  and 
vanilla  in  the  batter,  same  mixture  as  for  eclairs; 
fried  instead  of  baked.  (See  beignets,  corn  fritters, 
apples,  par  snip,  cremcfrite,  queen,  etc.) 

FROGS — The  frog,  is  one  of  the  regular  kinds  of 
meat  now  kept  in  stock  in  all  good  restaurants  dur- 
ing the  season,  which  is  fall  and  winter.  The  legs 
are  eaten  of  two  kinds  or  more:  the  small  green 
marsh  frog,  which  is  supposed  to  be  the  better,  and 
the  large  bull  frog,  which  attains  to  the  size  of  a 
squirrel  in  the  south.  In  the  course  of  business  it  is 
found  that  the  larger  frog's  legs  have  the  readiest 
sale;  they  resemble  chicken  in  appearance  and  taste. 
From  4  to  6  pairs  of  legs  of  the  large  sort  is  a  res- 
taurant portion — 12  to  18  pairs  of  the  small.  Frogs 
are  caught  with  a  rod  and  line.  A  bait  of  grub  or 
snail  being  tied  to  the  line  instead  of  a  hook,  it  is 
trailed  along  the  surface,  and  the  frog  springs  and 


FRO 

swallows  it.  They  are  caught  also  by  shooting  with 
an  arrow  attached  to  a  string,  and  in  nets  drawn 
along  the  margin  of  the  pond.  When  caught,  they 
are  skinned;  the  body  is  thrown  away;  the  legs  with 
enough  of  the  spine  to  hold  the  two  together  are  re- 
served for  cooking.  In  the  New  Orleans  markets, 
however,  may  be  seen  frogs  of  the  very  largest  size 
exhibited  for  sale  alive  in  cages,  where  they  are  ev- 
idently fed  and  fattened  for  market.  At  the  same 
stalls  may  be  seen  frogs  skinned  and  hung  up  in 
pairs,  looking  like  white-meated  squirrels  of  the  me- 
dium size,  and  not  the  legs  ilone,  but  the  entire 
body,  giving  evidence  that  the  entire  frog  is  es- 
teemed eatable  by  some  customers  at  least.  FRIC- 
ASSEE OF  FROGS — The  feet  chopped  off,  the  legs  are 
held  in  convenient  shape  by  thrusting  one  stump 
into  the  meat  of  the  other  leg,  steeped  an  hour  in 
water  containing  vinegar;  washed  and  placed  in  a 
saucepan  with  onion,  carrot,  celery,  a  clove,  herbs, 
pepper,  salt,  and  water  to  cover;  stewed  about  %  of 
an  hour.  The  frogs  taken  up,  the  broth  strained 
and  thickened  with  flour  and  butter;  finished  with 
yolks  and  cream,  not  boiled;  butter,  lemon  juice  and 
parsley.  FRIED  FROGS  A  L'AMERICAINK— Frog's 
legs  steeped  for  an  hour  in  lemon  juice,  salt  and 
pepper;  wiped  dry;  floured,  egged,  breaded,  fried; 
dished  on  a  napkin  with  fried  parsley  and  lemons. 
GRENOUILLES  A  LA  VILLEROY — Frogs  cooked  as 
for  fricassee,  mashed  to  a  paste  with  Allemande 
sauce;  worked  up  like  croquettes;  breaded;  fried. 
FROG  SOUP — Made  of  2  quarts  good,  seasoned  veal- 
broth  and  hind-quarters  of  3  doz.  small  frogs  cooked 
in  it;  frogs  taken  up,  mashed  to  a  paste  with  bread- 
crumbs; puree  strained  back  into  the  soup;  yolks  of 
eggs  to  thicken.  Os  DE  GRENOUILLES  —  Frogs' 
bones;  name  of  a  sweet  cracker  sold  in  Paris. 

FROMAGE  (Fr.)— Cheese.  FROMAGE  DE  BRIE- 
Brie  cheese.  BEIGNETS  DE  FROMAGE  —  Cheese 
fritters. 

FROMAGE  DE  COCHON— Head  cheese;  a  dish 
very  popular  in  France;  made  by  taking  the  skin  off 
a  pig's  head  in  one  piece,  taking  the  meat  from  the  ( 
bone  and  cutting  it  up  with  tongue,  ears,  some  chit- 
terlings, herbs,  seasonings;  all  sewn  up  in  the  skin 
of  the  head,  boiled  3  hours,  pressed  into  a  mould 
and  baked  a  short  time;  eaten  cold. 

FROMAGE  D'lTALIE  —  Italian  cheese,  but 
also  the  name  of  a  kind  of  liver  cheese  reputed  to 
have  been  a  favorite  with  Louis  XI.  Made  of  5  Ibs. 
liver,  i  Ib.  lean  pork,  %  Ib.  fat  pork,  all  minced; 
pepper,  salt,  shallots,  thyme  nutmeg.  Placed  in  an 
earthen  dish  lined  with  shavings  of  bacon,  wine  to 
moisten,  bay  leaves  and  bacon  on  top,  baked  three 
hours,  eaten  cold. 

FROST- FISH —American  small  fish,  plentiful 
only  in  winter;  cooked  by  rolling  in  flour  and  fry- 
ing like  whitebait  or  small  trout. 

FROSTING — Domestic    name  for  meringue  or 

icing  of  cakes.     (See  meringue.)     FROSTED  FKUITS 

[  — Cherries,  currants,  etc.,  dipped  in  white  of  egg 


322 


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FRU 

and  then  in  powdered  sugar.  FROST  \\"ORK — For 
pedestals,  cake  stands,  etc.,  is  done  by  sprinkling 
with  diamond  powder,  from  the  paint  shops,  on  a 
•wet  surface;  for  scenery  it  is  done  with  ground 
glass. 

FRUITS  (Fr.)— Fruits.  The  same  in  both  lan- 
guages. 

FRUIT  CAKE — Various  kinds  and  grades  of 
cakes  containing  raisins,  currants  and  citron  peel. 
CHRISTMAS  FRUIT  CAKE— Made  of  i  Ib.  each  butter, 
sugar,  eggs,  raisins,  2%  Ibs.  flour,  2  Ibs.  currants, 
J£  Ib.  citron,  nutmeg,  spice,  I  cup  milk;  mixed  like 
pound  cake,  baked  in  moulds.  (See  Dundee  cake.) 
FRUIT  CAKE — i  cup  butter,  2  cups  sugar,  J£  cup 
syrup,  5  eggs,  2  cups  flour,  3  teaspoons  baking 
powder,  i  cup  each  citron,  raisins,  currants. 

FRUIT  PUDDING— Commonly  understood  to 
mean  plum  pudding.  CHRISTMAS  PUDDING — Made 
of  2  Ibs.  bread-crumbs,  i  Ib.  each  suet  and  raisins, 
ij£  Ibs.  currants,  ^  Ib.  sultanas,  J£  Ib.  citron,  y±  Ib. 
sugar,  2  tablespoons  flour,  4  eggs,  2  cups  milk,  i 
nutmeg,  brandy,  spice;  boiled  6  or  8  hours. 

FUMET  (Fr.)— Essence  of  game;  made  by  fry- 
ing limbs,  bones,  carcasses  of  game  in  butter  with 
shallots  and  spices  till  browned,  then  stewing  with 
wine  and  stock,  straining  and  condensing- by  boil- 
ing down.  Used  for  adding  to  game  sauces. 

FUNGI — See  agaric,  cepe,  champignon,  morel, 
mushroom,  orange,  truffle. 

FURMETY  —  English,  from  Latin  frumenli. 
Wheat  boiled  in  water  until  soft,  milk  and  currants 
added.  Whole  wheat  porridge. 

FUSTIC — Venice  sumach ;  a  dry  wood  employed 
to  produce  yellow  colors. 

€J. 

GALANTINE— A  fowl  or  other  kind  of  meat, 
stuffed,  boiled,  pressed  in  a  mould,  decorated,  eaten 
cold.     GALANTINE  DE  DINDE — Boned  (or  boneless) 
'    turkey.    A  slit  is  cut  down  the  back,  the  meat  care- 
fully cut  from  the  carcass,  laid  out  flat  and  seasoned. 
A  filling  of  either  another  turkey  or    chicken,  or 
veal  forcemeat  or  sausage  placed  upon  it,  the  sides 
drawn  up  to  the  original  form,  sewn,  bound  up  in  a 
cloth,  boiled  3  hours,  in  stock  seasoned,  pressed  hot 
into  shape;  taken  out  of  the  cloth  when  cold.    It  is 
then  a  boned  turkey  only;  becomes  a  galantine  or 
ornamental  dish  when  decorated  by  being  placed  in 
a  larger  mould,  aspie    jelly    poured   around,   the 
whole  turned  out  when  cold  and  garnished  in  various  j 
ways.     GALANTINE  DE  POULARDE — Boned  chicken  ! 
in  jelly.     GALANTINE  DE  VEAU — The  fore-quarter  ! 
of   veal,   boned,   stuffed,    rolled,    boiled  in    stock,  j 
pressed  into  a  long  mould,  decorated   with  jelly,  \ 
shapes  of  yolk  and   white  of  eggs,  beets,  lemons,  ; 
etc.    Sliced  cold  and  served  with  jelly.     GALANTINE 
DE  COCHON — Galantine   is    occasionally   made    of  ; 
sucking  pig,  and  is  very   popular  in  France.     The 
pig  must  be  carefully  boned,   all  but  the  head  and  . 


GAM 

feet.  A  sufficient  quantity  of  veal,  of  fat  unsmoked 
bacon,  and  of  bread  panada  must  be  chopped  and 
pounded  to  make  enough  forcemeat  to  stuff  the  pig 
in  the  proportion  of  one  part  bacon,  two  panada, 
and  three  of  veal,  seasoned  with  a  teaspoonful  of 
onion  juice  and  two  of  powdered  sage.  Galantines 
of  small  birds  are  called  ballotines. 

GALETTE — A  plain  shortcake,  not  sweet,  but 
sometimes  sugared  over  the  surface.  Same  as  Ga- 
teau de  Plomb. 

CALLING  RENNET— It  is  said  that  the  rough 
skin  which  lines  the  gizzards  of  fowls  will  curdle 
milk  for  making  cheese  and  cheese  cakes  as  well  as 
calf's  rennet.  The  skin  is  salted  and  then  dried,  and 
a  piece  steeped  in  water  for  8  hours  makes  the  ren- 
net; 2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  to  be  mixed  with  the  milk. 
GALOPIX — Galopin  is  a  local  term  for  a  half- 
bottle  of  wine.  In  Paris,  the  word  means  a  "little 
rascal,"  affectionately  used. 

GAME— Nearly  all  game  is  better  for  being  kept, 
quails,  snipe  and  woodcock  being  the  exceptions. 
It  has  been  the  rule  to  hang  some  game  birds  bv  the 
middle  feather  of  the  tail  and  cook  the  bird  when  it 
fell.  When  game  becomes  a  little  too  high,  per- 
manganate of  potash  will  purify  it  from  the  taint, 
if  carefully  employed.  To  keep  game  however,  a 
better  way  is  to  draw  it  as  soon  as  it  arrives;  rinse 
with  soda  and .  water,  then  with  pure  cold  water; 
wipe  dry  and  rub  them  lightly  with  fine  salt  and 
pepper.  Put  a  piece  of  charcoal  inside  each  bird; 
hang  in  a  cool,  dark  place,  with  a  cloth  thrown  over 
them.  Another  way  strongly  recommended  is  to 
fill  the  birds  with  oats  or  other  dry  grain  and  bury 
them  in  grain.  Probably,  however,  cold  storage  is 
the  best  way  of  all  to  preserve  game  as  well  as  other 
meats.  OLD  GAME— "People  will  say :  'What  is  to 
be  done  with  old  game?'  To  that  question  I  will 
simply  answer:  '  Do  anything  but  roast  it.'  An  old 
hare  or  an  old  rabbit  may  be  turned  to  account  by 
making  it  into  soup,  puree,  stew,  civet,  quenelle,  or 
pie.  Of  course,  it  will  take  a  longer  time  to  cook 
than  if  the  game  were  young;  but  as  compensation 
you  will  find  more  substance  and  more  flavor  in  the 
result.  An  old  bird  may  be  boiled,  braized,  or  made 
into  fricassee,  soup,  forcemeat,  and  puree.  Clear 
consomme  dugibier  aux  quentlles  is  a  very  nutritious 
soup.  It  is  made  with  carcasses  and  bones  of  old 
game,  the  flesh  of  which  has  been  pounded  to  make 
the  quenelles  that  are  used  as  a  garnish  to  the  soup. 
In  France,  old  partridges  are  mostly  vised  in  the 
form  oiperdrix  aux  clioiix.  They  are  braised  with 
cabbage,  bacon  and  sausages  until  tender.  In  Ger- 
many they  substitute  sauerkraut  for  the  fresh  cab- 
bage. Hares,  rabbits,  and  large  birds,  such  as  phea- 
sants, blackcock,  etc.,  require  to  be  thoroughly 
cooked;  but  small  birds,  such  as  partridges,  grouse> 
woodcocks,  snipe,  quails,  etc.,  ought  to  be  eaten  a 
little  underdone,  when  they  will  be  more  appreciated 
by  the  real  epicure.  Small  game  is  generally  dished 
on  toast;  bread-sauce  is  always  served  with  phea- 


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323 


GAM 

sants,  partridges,  grouse,  and  blackgame;  with  wild 
fowl  in  general,  quartered  lemons  are  handed 
round,  and  currant-jelly  is  sent  up  with  roast  hare. 
CHOICE-BITS — 

"  If  the  partridge  had  but  the  woodcock's  thigh, 
He'd  be  the  best  bird  that  ever  did  fly ; 
If  the  woodcock  had  but  the  partridge's  breast, 
He'd  be  the  best  bird  that  ever  was  dressed." 

SMALL  GAME — "All  small  game-birds  should  be 
roasted  in  jackets  made  of  very  thin  slices  of  salt 
pork  or  bacon.  Many  persons  do  not  like  the  taste 
of  smoked  meats;  the  pork  is  therefore  much  better 
to  use,  unless  by  special  order."  GAMY  HINTS — 
"  Game  (birds)  should  be  hung  by  the  neck,  and  not 
by  the  feet,  as  is  commonly  done.  Hares  should  be 
dressed  when  blood  drops  from  the  nose.  The  fishy 
flavor  of  wild-flowl  may  be  prevented  by  first  boil- 
ing them  in  water  in  which  are  salt  and  onions. 
Game  or  wild-fowl  for  two  or  three  are,  however, 
never  better  than  when  broiled."  WEIGHTS  AND 
TIME — "The  average  weight  of  grouse,  partridges, 
and  pheasants,  when  prepared  for  the  spit,  is  as  fol- 
lows: Grouse,  16  oz. ;  partridge,  ^  Ib. ;  pheasant 
(on  the  average),  2%  Ibs.  The  following  are  the  va- 
rious lengths  of  time  which  game  requires  for  cook- 
ing, a  point :  Cock  pheasant,  three  quarters  of  an 
hour;  hen,  twenty -five  minutes;  half-grown  bird,  a 
quarter  of  an  hour;  hare,  one  hour  and  a  half;  wood- 
cock, half  an  hour;  snipe,  twenty  minutes;  quail, 
twenty  minutes;  golden  plover,  twenty  minutes;  teal, 
a  quarter  of  an  hour;  capercailzie,  an  hour  and  a 
quarter;  and  wild  goose,  an  hour."  THE  NATURAL 
FLAVOR — "  'In  the  preparation  of  game,'  wrote  re- 
cently an  eminent  Parisian  c/iff,  'abstain  from  too 
much  seasoning.  Do  not  use  spicy  herbs  of  any 
kind,  and  scrupulously  avoid  all  garlic,  shallot,  and 
other  onion-flavored  vegetables.  These  ingredients 
destroy  the  delicate  intrinsic  savor  of  game.'  The 
same  person  states  that^rrzw — thrushes — should  be 
served  en  couronnt — ;.  e. ,  in  a  circle,  round  a  bouquet 
of  smallage  and  of  autumn  marguerites.  Pheasants 
should  be  trimmed  with  the  tail  and  wing-feathers, 
and  be  served  holding  a  rose  in  their  beaks." — 
SYDNEY  SMITH  ON  GRAVY — "  It  is  wickedness  to 
drench  roast  game  with  sauce.  Sydney  Smith  says, 
in  describing  a  dinner  at  which  he  was  present:  '  I 
heard  a  lady  who  sat  next  to  me  say  in  a  low,  sweet 
voice:  'No  gravy,  sir!"  I  had  never  seen  her  before, 
but  I  turned  suddenly  round  and  said:  'Madam,  I 
have  been  looking  for  a  person  who  disliked  gravy 
all  my  life;  let  us  swear  eternal  friendship.'  She 
jooked  astonished,  but  took  the  oath,  and  what  is 
better,  kept  it."  GAME  WITH  CHESTNUTS — Phea- 
sants, part  :idges,  quails,  grouse,  and  plovers  may 
all  be  cooked  by  the  following  directions,  and  they 
will  be  found  to  be  very  nice:  A  quart  of  large 
chestnuts  are  boiled  and  mashed,  one-half  of  it  mixed 
with  3  oz.  butter,  i  cup  cracker-dust,  salt,  pepper, 
chopped  parsley.  Birds  stuffed  with  it,  wrapped  in 
thin  slices  of  cooked  ham,  then  in  vineleaves  tied  on 
them;  baked;  leaves  and  ham  removed,  chestnut-  , 


GAM 

sauce  made  witn  remainder  of  puree  added  to  gravy 
made  of  the  livers,  etc.  NORTH UMBEK LAND  GAME- 
PIE — "This  ducal  dish,  for  which  Alnwick  Castle 
has  been  for  centuries  famed,  is  made  thus:  A  good 
raised  pie-crust  is  made,  such  as  one  would  prepare 
for  a  large  batch  of  pork- pies,  or  raised  pies.  The 
crust  is  firm,  yet  mellow,  and  will  not  be  like  some 
Melton  (?)  pies  I  know  (nothing  melting  about 
them),  which  require  a  hatchet  to  break  them. 
These  cases  are  quite  monsters.  The  inside  consists 
of  24  pigeons  cooked  and  boned,  the  flesh  pounded 
in  a  mortar  with  the  gravy  in  which  they  were 
stewed  added;  then  24  fowls  served  in  the  same  way ; 
a  layer  of  fine  sausage-meat  may  be  put  round  the 
pigeons,  which  are  formed  into  a  long  roll,  then  the 
fowls,  next  slices  of  ham,  then  boned  rabbit,  phea- 
sants, partridge,  hare,  tongue  in  slices,  turkey-flesh, 
until  all  is  in  one  huge  mass,  then  the  bones  of  ham 
shanks,  couple  of  cows'  heels,  or  a  knuckle  of  veal 
are  stewed  for  hours.  The  meats  are  laid  into  the 
case;  the  liquor,  when  nearly  cold  and  freed  from 
grease,  is  poured  in;  the  cover  put  on  the  pie;  baked, 
then  glazed  with  egg,  and  the  ornaments  put  on. 
These  will  be  popular  on  smaller  scales,  and  to  the 
restaurateur  they  are  valuable  as  they  use  up  odds 
and  ends  of  game,  etc.,  which  whilst  being  per- 
fectly good  are  not  exactly  presentable  at  table,  and 
too  good  for  the  stockpot,  their  ultimate  destina- 
tion." RICHARD  II  GAME-PIE—" This  recipe  is  to 
be  found  in  the  books  of  the  Sailers'  Company,  and 
having  been  tested  by  their  cook,  was  found  to  pro- 
duce an  excellent  pie;  which  proves  that  our  ances- 
tors excelled  in  cookery  more  than  four  centuries 
and  a  half  ago.  It  is  a  recipe  for  making  a  game-pie 
for  Christmas  in  the  reign  of  Richard  II.  Take  a 
pheasant,  a  hare,  a  capon,  two  partridges,  two  pig- 
eons, and  two  rabbits;  bone  them  and  put  them  into 
paste  the  shape  of  a  bird,  with  the  livers  and  hearts, 
two  mutton  kidneys,  forcemeats  and  eggballs,  sea- 
soning, spice,  ketchup,  and  pickled  mushrooms; 
filled  up  with  gravy  made  from  the  various  bones." 
LITTLE  GAME  PIES — Raised-pie  cases  3  or  4  inches 
diameter  are  made  and  baked  with  a  filling  of  flour 
to  keep  them  in  shape;  when  done,  the  flour  brushed 
out,  and  cold  galantines  of  game  and  imitation  foie- 
gras  cut  small  and  mixed  filled  in,  and  aspic  jelly 
poured  in  to  level  up;  lids  separately  baked  put  on 
and  decorated.  THATCHER  HOUSE  GAME  PIE  [spec-" 
ialty] — Is  made  in  the  following  manner:  Rub  the 
inside  of  a  deep  dish  with  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter 
and  spread  over  it  some  vermicelli.  Then  line  the 
dish  with  puff  paste;  have  ready  some  birds  seasoned 
with  powdered  nutmeg  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper; 
stuff  them  with  oysters  or  mushrooms  chopped  tine; 
place  them  in  the  puff-paste  lined  dish  with  their 
breasts  downward.  Add  some  gravy  of  roast  veal 
or  poultry  (it  may  be  cold  gravy  saved  over  from  a 
recent  roast),  and  cover  the  pie  with  a  lid  of  puffy 
paste.  Bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven;  and  when  done, 
turn  it  out  carefully  upon  a  dish  and  send  it  to  the 
table.  The  vermicelli,  which  was  originally  at  the 


324 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


GAM 

bottom,  will  then  be  at  the  top,  covering  the  paste 
like  thatch  upon  a  roof.  Trim  off  the  layers  so  as  to 
look  neat.  PUREE-OF-GAME  Sour  —  The  game  is 
boiled  in  stock  or  water  with  carrots,  onions,  celery 
and  herbs;  when  tender,  the  meat  mashed,  rubbed 
through  a  strainer,  mixed  with  bread-crumbs,  and 
the  stock  strained  to  it.  Served  with  croutons  of 
fried  bread.  (See  Grouse  atid  other  kinds.) 

GAMMON  OF  BACON— A  leg  of  salt  pork. 
English  corruption  of  the  French  jambon,  ham. 

GARBURE— "I  remember  some  time  ago  six 
American  gentlemen  from  New  York  came  to  Big- 
non's  and  said:  'Now,  Joseph,  we  want  a  thor- 
oughly good  dinner.'  I  asked  them  what  they 
wanted,  and  they  insisted  on  leaving  it  to  me.  Well, 
this  is  what  I  gave  them:  First  a  potage  gmrbiire  ; 
then  J>ommes georgette ,'  next  a  quail  for  each  guest. 
And  would  you  believe  that  during  their  stay  in 
Paris  they  ordered  that  same  dinner  of  garbure, 
pommcs  georgette  and  roast  no  less  than  eight  times, 
of  which  four  times  running?"  Garbure  is  some- 
thing which  is  served  with  soup  rather  than  the  soup 
itself;  it  is  crust  of  bread  baked  in  a  dish  of  fat  broth ; 
any  sort  of  vegetable  may  be  prepared  and  poured 
over  the  baked  but  softened  bread,  and  the  real  soup 
is  served  separately.  It  is  eaten  by  each  person  tak- 
ing a  spoonful  of  the  bread  from  the  baking  dish, 
its  top-dressing  of  vegetable  with  it,  and  adding  a 
ladleful  of  soup  to  it  in  the  soup-plate.  In  the  in- 
stance above  mentioned  the  baked  bread  had  a  dress- 
ing of  parmesan  cheese,  and  the  soup  served  with  it 
wasjulienne.  GARBURE  WITH  CABBAGE— Cabbages 
stewed  with  small  sausages  and  bits  of  bacon;  top- 
crust  of  rolls  baked  in  a  dish  with  enough  beef -broth 
to  moisten;  the  cabbage  served  on  the  bread;  beef- 
broth  or  other  soup  by  the  side.  GARBURE  WITH 
CucuMBERS-Cucumbers  in  inch-lengths,  parboiled, 
then  fried  in  butter,  then  stewed,  served  on  top  of 
crusts  baked  in  broth;  a  vegetable-soup  in  another 
tureen.  GARBURE  A  LA  CLERMoxT-Onions  in  rings 
fried  to  a  yellow  color,  then  stewed  in  broth,  poured 
over  the  baked  crusts;  beef-broth  served  in  another 
tureen.  GARBURE  A  LA  FRENEUSE— Turnips  cut  in 
pieces,  -fried,  then  stewed,  poured  over  the  baked 
crusts;  beef-broth  served  separately. 

GARGANTU A— Rabelais,  a  French  humorous 
satirist  of  the  sixteenth  century,  describes  the  do- 
ings of  Gargantua,  who  ate  cattle  as  common  people 
eat  chickens  and  was  in  all  a  wonderful  glutton; 
hence  the  allusions  occasionally  to  Gargantuan 
Feasts,  meaning  something  extraordinarily  large, 
and  Gargantuan  Feeders,  meaning  great  eaters. 
"The  following  is  a  list  of  the  hors  d'anrvres  served 
at  a  Gargantuan  repast:  Carfare  ;  bontargues  (saus- 
ages made  out  of  caviare);  beurre  jrays  (fresh  but- 
c'er);  purees  de  poys  (puree  of  peas);  espinars  (spi 
nach);  arans  blans  bouffiz,  araas  sors  (fresh  and 
pickled  herrings) ;  sardines,  anchois,  tonnine  (tunny) ; 
caules  emV  olif  (cabbage  preserved  in  oil);  saulg re- 
ntes de  fibres  (Mac^doine  of  beans);  sallades  cent 


GAS 

dh-ersites  (a  hundred  different  salads),  of  which  are 
mentioned  cress,  hops,  samphire,  mushrooms,  as- 
paragus, and  honey-suckle  salad;  pickled  salmon; 
salted  eels;  huytres  en  escalles  (oysters  in  their 
shells.)  This  is  from  a  French  sixteenth-century 
menu.  It  seems  to  me  that  caterers  in  quest  of  nov- 
elties for  the  construction  of  their  mentis  vnight  do 
worse  than  consult  Master  Rabelais." 

GARFISH— A  river-fish  destructive  to  other 
fishes,  generally  thrown  away  as  worthless  when 
caught.  It  is  said  the  strong  oily  taste  of  this  fish  is 
no  deeper  than  its  skin,  and  after  skinning  and 
steeping  in  water  with  vinegar  and  salt  it  is  good 
cooked  in  the  same  ways  as  eels. 

GARLIC — A  bulb  like  an  onion;  useful  for  fla- 
voring if  used  with  great  care.  Its  taste,  if  strong, 
is  very  generally  objected  to  by  unaccustomed 
palates,  though  it  is  eaten  raw  with  bread,  the  same 
as  onions,  by  people  of  southern  Europe.  It  can  be 
bought  of  Italian  and  Spanish  gardeners  or  pro- 
vision dealers.  A  CLOVE  OF  GARLIC — Means  one 
of  the  natural  divisions  of  the  bulb,  not  a  head  of 
garlic.  Generally  it  is  sufficient  to  rub  the  salad 
dish  with  a  slice  of  garlic,  or  to  rub  garlic  on  a  crust 
of  bread  and  stir  that  up  in  the  salad,  or  in  a  stew 
or  soup. 

GARNISH — A  garnish  is  a  ragout  or  mixture  of 
various  tasty  morsels  in  rich  sauce,  and  as  the  whole 
is  made  up  of  several  parts  necessity  has  prompted 
the  naming  of  many  of  the  garnishes;  thus  aRich- 
elieu  garnish  or  a  Financiere  garnish  always  mean 
the  same  things  respectively  without  going  into  the 
detail  of  their  composition,  and  a  piece  of  meat  or 
a  fowl  served  with  either  garnish  in  the  dish  is 
named  accordingly:  a  la  Financiere  or  a  la  Riche- 
lieu. The  misfortune  of  the  case  is  that  garnishes 
and  names  are  too  numerous  and  the  motive  is  too 
small  for  anybody  to  learn  more  than  about  half  a 
dozen  characteristic  compounds. 

GARNISH— To  garnish  or  decorate  a  dish  with 
something  to  enhance  its  attractiveness,  such  as  the 
bordering  a  salad  with  capers,  parsley,  beets  or 
lemons. 

GARNISH — Culinary  expression  meaning  to  fill 
up,  as  when  a  shell  of  paste  has  been  baked  for  a 
pat6  the  directions  run  to  garnish  the  pie  case  with 
fat  livers  and  boned  birds;  or  to  garnish  a  border  of 
rice  by  filling  it  up  with  the  sweetbreads  prepared 
for  the  purpose. 

GARUM— One  of  the  two  principal  sauces  used 
by  the  ancient  Romans,  often  mentioned  by  old 
authors;  a  kind  of  soy,  "the  Romans  knew  and  ap- 
preciated the  appetising  charms  of  the  oyster,  albeit 
it  was  served  up  with  garum,  a  sauce  made  from 
putrid  fish  which  would  disgust  a  modern  gourmet. 

GASPACHO— See  Spanish  Cookery. 

GASTRONOMY— The  science  "of  the  stomach. 
The  knowledge  of  what,  how,  and  when  to  eat. 
GASTRONOMER— One  \vhosecures  the  utmost 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


325 


GAT 

enjoyment  of  the  pleasures  of  taste  within  the  limi- 
tations of  the  laws  of  health. 

GATEAU— (Fr.)— Cake.  The  forms  of  gateaux 
are  as  various  as  the  forms  of  cakes.  The  term 
means  almost  anything  from  a  cream  pie  to  an  orna- 
mented tall  cake  for  a  party.  GATEAU  BABA  A  LA 
MONTMORENCY — A  rich  yeast-raised  cake  baked  in 
an  ordinary  tube  cake  mould,  the  top  crust  cut  off 
and  kirsch  syrup  poured  into  the  cake;  apricot  jam 
spread  thinly  over,  icing  over  that;  made  cold. 
When  served  the  hollow  rilled  with  red  currant  ice 
cream  and  candied  cherries.  GATEAU  MAZARIN — 
A  baba  or  yeast-raised  cake,  rich  with  butter  and 
eggs,  but  without  sugar,  baked  in  a  plain  mould 
lined  with  almonds,  split  like  a  short-cake,  when 
done,  and  thick  rum  pudding  sauce,  containing 
chopped  citron  and  butter  poured  on  both  halves. 
The  two  saturated  halves  are  then  placed  together 
and  the  cake  served  hot  on  a  folded  napkin.  Suita- 
ble for  ball  suppers  and  large  parties.  GATEAU 
GENOISE  AUX  APRICOTS— A  jelly  cake  6  or  8  inches 
high,  half  of  it  cut  out  from  the  center  to  form  a 
well  in  the  middle  of  the  cake.  Entire  surface 
spread  with  apricot  jam  and  decorated,  served  with 
apricot  compote  and  whipped  cream  in  the  center. 
GATEAU  DE  AMANDES  A  LA  PARISIENNE — A  sheet 
of  puff  paste  with  raised  edges,  filled  with  almond 
custard,  covered  with  a  thin  top  crust,  egged  over, 
sugared,  baked.  GATEAU  A  LA  D'ARTOIS — Same  as 
the  preceding  if  made  with  jam  or  marmalade. 
GATEAU  DE  PLOMB — A  plain  rich  shortcake,  made 
of  i  Ib.  flour,  %  Ib.  butter,  I  cup  cream,  I  spoonful 
sugar,  salt,  egged  over,  baked  like  a  large  plain  bis- 
cuit; eaten  with  butter  and  fruit.  GATEAU  NAPOL- 
ITAINE — Almond  flavored  jelly  cake,  iced  and  deco- 
rated. GATEAU  A  LA  VICTORIA— A  light  baba  or 
yeast  raised  citron  cake,  served  hot  with  almond 
custard.  GATEAU  SAINT  Louis — A  puff  paste  sheet 
with  raised  edges  filled  with  almond  white  frangi- 
pane,  chopped  almonds  on  top,  baked;  similar  to 
white  cocoanut  pie.  GATEAU  SAINT  CHARLES— An 
almond  cake  baked  in  a  mould  lined  with  paste. 
GATEAU  DE  Riz— Rice  cake.  GATEAU  TIE  MILLE 
FEUILLES — Thousand  leaf  pastry;  jelly  cake  made 
of  baked  sheets  of  puff  paste  piled  on  each  other 
with  jelly  between.  GATEAU  NAPOLEON — Two 
sheets  of  puff  paste  baked  thin  and  dry,  spread  be- 
tween with  frangipane;  cut  in  pieces  to  serve.  PE- 
TITS  GATEAUX — Small  cakes.  GATEAU  FAUCHETTE 
— A  Paris  specialty,  made  by  removing  the  center 
from  a  freshly  baked  sponge  cake,  filling  it  with  al- 
mond frangipane;  turning  it  over  on  a  dish,  cover- 
ing with  meringue,  with  granulated  sugar  sifted 
over  the  surface,  and  baking  sufficiently  to  slightly 
color  the  outside,  spotted  with  currant  jelly;  served 
on  a  folded  napkin,  hot.  GATEAU  RHINE  CLAUDE 
OR  STANLEY — A  cake  hollowed  in  the  middle,  spread 
over  ("masked")  with  green-gage  marmalade,  filled 
with  green -gage  ice  cream.  (See  Ices.)  PARIS 
SPECIALTY — "  MEM.  :  Spinach  in  slight  quantities  is 
very  useful  for  giving  a  bright  green  color  to  such 


GEN 

entremets  as  ices  and  creams.  It  is  used  in  this  way 
for  "shading"  Reine  Claude  ice  cream,  which  would 
otherwise  have  a  dull  color.  This  Reine  Claude 
cream  is  now  much  used  for  filling  Stanley  cakes,  as 
the  new  fashionable  entremets  in  Paris  is  called. 
The  "gateau  Stanley"  is  the  invention  of  ChefLxi- 
cien  Charclon,  and  is  made  with  baked  baba  dough 
soaked  in  almond  syrup,  glazed  with  sugar-glazing 
and  masked  as  above." 

GAUFFRE  (Fr.)— Wafer;  waffle. 
GELATINE— Made  first  by  Prevost  about  1735, 
the  same  who  took  in  partnership  Phillippe,  who 
afterwards  became  celebrated  for  his  restaurant  in 
Paris.  It  is  refined  glue;  may  be  obtained  by  boil- 
ing down  calves'  feet,  head,  ears  or  skin  until  they 
are  dissolved,  straining  the  liquor  and  then  drying 
it  on  shallow  dishes.  _  The  transparency  of  some 
kinds  is  due  to  clarifying  processes.  The  whitish 
kind  in  sheets  is  porous  through  being  churned 
while  cooling,  which  makes  it  easier  to  dry,  and  is 
an  advantage  in  cooking  as  :t  floats  in  the  liquid  and 
cannot  burn  on  the  bottom  as  the  transparent  kinds 
dp.  Gelatine  is  one  of  the  expensive  articles  of 
hotel  provision.  The  dearest  is  not  necessarily  the 
best.  The  jellies  to  be  made  have  to  be  clarified  by 
the  cooks  and  one  kind  of  gelatine  is  as  good  as 
another  provided  it  is  without  flavor.  If  kept  in  a 
drug  store  gelatine  will  often  acquire  flavors  from 
neighboring  substances  that  render  it  quite  worth- 
less. The  quantity  required  is  1%  ounces  for  I  qU 
of  jelly,  or  i  oz.  for  i  qt.  of  milk  or  cream  for  blanc 
mange,  but  more  in  warm  weather  than  in  cold. 
PORTABLE  JELLY — Gelatine  jelly  can  be  made  of 
double  strength,  then  dried  down  to  the  consistency 
of  gum  drop  candy,  in  small  pieces  or  shreds,  and 
kept,  and  when  wanted  to  make  jelly  can  be  dis- 
solved in  the  right  measure  of  hot  water,  and  will 
be  jelly  as  soon  as  it  can  be  made  cold  enough  to  set, 
(See  "jellies,  Asp.c,  Cremes.) 

GELEE  (Fr.)— Jelly. 

GELINOTTE— Guinea  hen,  hazel  hen. 

GEM  PANS — American  dariole  moulds,  made 
of  iron  or  tin,  cast  or  joined  together  in  sets  of  10 
or  12;  made  of  various  depths,  generally  hold  z 
ounces,  are  round,  oval  or  scalloped. 

GEMS — American  hot  breads  baked  in  gem  pans. 
CORN  GEMS — Corn  meal,  milk,  butter,  eggs,  salt, 
baking  powder,  and  little  flour,  mixed  thin  enough 
to  pour  out  of  a  pitcher;  gem  pans  filled  and  baked. 
GRAHAM  GEMS — The  same  made  of  Graham  flour. 
There  are  several  varieties;  some  sweet.  WHEAT 
GEMS — Usually  called  wheat  muffins,  made  both 
with  yeast  and  baking  bowder;  there  are  various 
qualities. 

GENEVA  BUNS— Sweet  rolls  made  either  by 
adding  to  light  bread  dough  some  enriching  in- 
gredients, or  with  2  Ibs.  flour,  i  oz.  yeast,  i  cup 
warm  milk,  to  set  sponge;  2  eggs,  6  oz.  sugar,  6  oz. 
melted  butter  worked  in;  made  in  long  buns,  proned 
till  quite  light,  baked  15  minutes,  sugared  over. 


326 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


GEN 

GKXEVA — The  term  geneva,  or  gin,  is  derived 
ffoatffXUVrf,  the  French  word  for  juniper-berries. 
The  fruit  of  this  tree  was  tried  by  Sylvius,  a  pro- 
fessor of  Leydon,  who  lived  in  the  seventeenth  cen- 
tury, and  found  that  it  not  only  gave  a  very  agreea- 
ble flavor,  but  also  possessed  many  valuable  medi- 
cinal properties.  In  consequence  this  liquor  was 
for  a  considerable  time  sold  as  a  medicine  by  the 
apothecaries,  but  on  its  excellent  qualities  becoming 
better  known,  it  was  made  on  a  more  extensive 
scale,  and  then  received  the  name  of  the  plant  to 
which  it  owed  its  peculiar  flavor. 

GENEVA  WAFERS— Same  as  wafer  jumbles, 
which  run  out  thin  in  baking;  can  be  taken  up  hot 
and  bent  around  to  conical  shape  to  hold  whipped 
cream;  made  of  4  oz.  butter,  3  oz.  sugar,  3  eggs, 
4  oz.  flour;  vanilla  flavor^  well  beaten  together, 
dropped  on  pans  with  spoon. 

GENEVA  PUDDING— Rice  boiled  in  milk,  and 
puree  of  apples  mixed  together  with  eggs  and  wine, 
sugar  and  butter;  baked;  wine  sauce. 

GENEVOISE  (a  /«)— In  Geneva  or  Swiss  style, 
or  with  Genevoise  satice. 

GEVEVOISE  SAUCE— For  fish.  Brown  sauce 
•with  2  oz.  lean  ham  cut  in  pieces,  a  carrot,  onion, 
bay  leaf,  3  cloves,  peppercorns,  %  clove  of  garlic, 
parsley,  thvme,  butter;  all  simmered  together  till 
onion  is  tender;  i  pt.  claret  added;  boiled  down; 
espagnole  or  brown  sauce,  or  butter  and  flour,  and 
stock;  salt,  pepper;  strained  thiough  a  napkin  by 
twisting;  anchovy  essence  and  butter  beaten  in. 
BROOK  TROI-T  A  LA  GENEVOISE— Speckled  trout 
trussed  with  the  head  to  the  side  to  keep  them  in 
upright  position,  cooked  in  equal  parts  red  wine  and 
broth  with  garlic  and  herbs  in  a  fish-boiler  for  30 
minutes;  drained  and  served  on  a  folded  napkin 
with  Genevoise  sauce,  made  of  part  of  the  fish-liquor, 
served  separately. 

GENOISE  SAUCE  —  For  fish.  Good  brown 
sauce  with  chopped  parsley,  a  glass  of  port,  teaspoon 
of  anchovy  essence,  walnut  catsup,  pinch  of  mace; 
boiled  few  minutes. 

GENOISE  CAKE— Rich  almond  pound-cake  of 
several  grades.  (/)-Made  of  i  Ib.  each  sugar,  hut- 
ter,  almonds,  flour,  eggs,  and  a  wine-glass  of  brandy. 
The  sugar  and  eggs  whisked  together  until  thick 
and  light;  the  almonds  powdered  and  sifted;  flour 
and  butter  all  stirred  in;  baked  in  moulds  or  in  thin 
sheets.  (2)-RovAL  GENOISE — A  London  specialty; 
made  of  i  Ib.  sugar,  i6eggs,  %  Ib,  butter,  %  Ib.  flour, 
%  Ib.  ground  almonds;  flavored  with  vanilla,  almond 
and  lemon;  sugar  and  eggs  whisked  light;  butter 
warmed  and  stirred  in  with  the  flour  and  almonds; 
baked  in  sheets;  not  cut  till  cold.  (J)-ORDINARY 
GENOISE — Made  of  same  as  the  first  above  without 
almonds.  Better  with  2  eggs  less,  or  i  Ib.  of  flonr, 
i  Ib.  of  pulverized  sugar,  i  Ib.  of  butter,  S  eggs,  a 
little  salt,  and  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  lemon. 
GENOISE  PASTRY— Name  given  to  small  squares  or 


GER 

shapes  of  genoise  cake  with  jelly  spread  between, 
and  pink  and  white  icing  on  top;  cut  out  of  large, 
thin  sheets  of  cake.  Favorite  kind  for  parties. 

GENOA  C AKE— (/)  Genoise  cake  with  currants, 
raisins,  citron  and  ground  cinnamon  mixed  in ;  baked 
in  a  shallow  pan;  glazed  with  sugar  and  chopped  al- 
monds, and  baked  to  dry  them.  (2}-Onc  pound  but- 
ter, i  Ib.  sugar,  i^  Ibs.  flour,  9  eggs,  iJ4  Ibs.  cur- 
rants, %  Ib.  citron;  lemon  flavor. 

GEODUCK— "The  greatest  curiosity  of  all  at  the 
dinner  was,  however,  the  geoduck.  It  is  an  im- 
mense clam,  the  largest  in  the  world.  One  will  fill 
a  bushel-basket.  They  are  found  only  in  Puget 
Sound,\Vashington  Territory.  Government  officials 
tried  to  bring  one  alive  to  the  Smithsonian  Institute, 
in  Washington,  in  1882,  for  the  United  States  Fish 
Commissioners.  The  specimen  was  boxed  and  taken 
by  steamer  to  San  Francisco,  where  it  gave  up  the 
ghost.  Its  scientific  name  is  the  Glycerinus.  It  re- 
sembles a  great  fresh  water  clam  in  form,  color,  and 
texture  of  shell."  There  is  another,  an  East  Indian 
clam  of  immense  size;  a  single  one  will  make  a  meal 
for  ten  men.  The  shells  are  deeply  and  handsomely 
scolloped,  and  are  to  be  seen  at  the  shell  stores. 

GERMAN  COOKERY— To  appreciate  German 
cookery  and  to  enjoy  thoroughly  some  of  the  real 
delicacies  it  produces,  it  is  necessary  first  to  aban- 
don all  American  ideas  on  the  fitness  of  things,  and 
when  you  have  succeeded  in  doing  so  get  rid  of  the 
English  and  French  ones  as  well.  For  a  stranger 
the  dinner  hour  in  any  German  city  is  a  most  puzz- 
ling matter.  He  may  begin  a  round  of  visits  at  one 
o'clock  and  continue  them  till  five,  finding  everyone 
at  dinner.  For,  although  the  most  usual  time  is  one 
or  half -past,  the  Emperor  dines  at  four,  most  of  the 
government  employes  at  half  past  two,  and  the 
wealthy  class  at  five.  The  most  characteristic  meal 
in  the  southern  portion  of  the  Empire  is  the  jause, 
which,  like  the  English  "tea,"  comes  between  din- 
ner and  supper.  The  ladies  ask  each  other  to  their 
apartments,  drink  coffee  and  eat  kuffelliupf  (a  spe- 
cies of  fine  pound  cake  with  very  large  holes  in  it — 
yeast-raised  kauglanf}  and  kipfel  (little  rolls  in  the 
shape  of  a  horn).  The  men  meet  in  the  cafes  and 
take  similar  refreshments.  The  customary  dinner 
of  the  upper  middle  class  is  soup;  boiled  beef  with 
sauce,  vegetables,  pickles;  roast  veal  or  poultry, 
and  either  salad  or  a  pudding,  on  Sunday  both  salad 
and  pudding.  The  favorite  sauce  with  beef  is 
horse-radish  (kren)  and  onions.  Your  German 
friend  cuts  all  his  meat  in  pieces,  dips  each  piece 
systematically  into  all  the  little  vegetable  or  sauce 
dishes,  which  are  grouped  around,  before  he  puts  it 
in  his  mouth.  The  German  states  are  better  sup- 
plied with  game  than  any  other  part  of  Europe. 
The  Bohemian  pheasants  (faisans  de  Bo/ieme)  are 
celebrated.  Capercailzie  and  black-cock  come  from 
the  Styrian  mountains.  Hares  are  exceedingly 
numerous;  venison  abounds.  The  vast,  swampy 
reaches  of  the  rivers  afford  snipe  and  duck-shoot- 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


327 


GER 

ing  in  abundance.  Two  or  three  times  a  year  wild 
geese  in  immense  flocks  fly  across  the  .country  and 
great  uumbers  are  killed.  Woodcocks  and  geli- 
nottes  are  brought  to  market  from  Hungary;  in 
short,  nowhere  is  the  material  for  good  living-  more 
plentiful  or  cheaper  than  in  the  German  markets. 
In  order  to  enjoy  any  of  these,  however,  it  is  quite 
essential  for  the  stranger  to  warn  the  headwaiter 
that  the  bird  ordered  must  be  brought  in  whole  for 
the  guest  to  do  his  own  carving,  that  art  being 
utterly  unknown,  at  least  in  the  public  cafes,  and 
method  substituted  for  carving  is  a  barbarous  chop- 
ping of  every  bird  or  fowl  straight  across  in  halves 
and  quarters,  limbs,  breast,  bones,  splinters,  all 
mixed  up  together.  In  earty  summer  back-hendl 
is  the  favorite  delicacy.  It  is  spring  chicken  bread - 
crumbed  and  fried.  Next  to  back-hendl,  the  most 
universally  liked  dish  is  Wiener -Schnitzel.  This  is 
simply  a  veal  cutlet  breaded  and  fried,  with  slices 
of  lemon  around  it.  It  is  a  safe  thing  to  order  al- 
most anywhere;  you  can  eat  it  in  a  Bierhalle  or 
large  middle-class  restaurant,  where  very  little  else 
would  be  worth  having.  The  special  forte  of 
Viennese  cooking  lies  in  the  sweets.  The  soufflets, 
puddings,  tea  and  dinner  cakes,  brioches  and  tarts 
of  Vienna  are  unequalled  even  in  Paris.  The  way 
an  Austrian  cook  makes  a  rice  pudding  is  sufficient 
to  convert  even  a  school  boy  to  love  plain  puddings. 
The  variety  of  German  sweets  {Mehlspeiseii)  is 
enormous,  it  would  fill  pages  to  describe  them. 
GERMAN  DISHES— These  are  dishes  which  one 
traveler  did  not  relish  and  he  thought  them  strange, 
though  they  seemed  good  to  his  German  entertain- 
ers: Cold  potato  salad,  boiled  beef  and  raspberry- 
jam,  spinach  fried  in  butter,  wine  and  raisin  soup, 
pancakes  three  inches  thick  fried  in  the  oil  of 
Spanish  onions,  pork  sausage  fritters,  raw  her- 
rings and  cucumber  with  treacle  sauce,  veal  cut- 
lets garnished  with  boiled  stick  liquorice.  GER- 
MAN POTATO  SALAD — The  ingredients  of  a  real 
German  winter  salad  are  cold  boiled  potatoes 
cut  up  into  quite  small  pieces,  some  capers,  or 
a  few  olives  chopped  up,  anchovies  stripped  off  the 
bones  and  cut  into  small  pieces,  and  a  little  finely- 
chopped  parsley.  To  these  may  be  added  beetroot  and 
celery,  if  desired,  which  should  also  be  cut  up  into 
small  pieces.  All  the  ingredients  to  be  well  mixed. 
For  the  dressing,  to  the  proportion  of  two  eggs — of 
which  the  yolks,  hard  boiled,  only  are  used — put 
one  tablespoonful  of  salad  oil,  a  little  cayenne  pep- 
per, salt  and  mustard  to  taste;  and  a  small  teaspoon- 
ful  of  pounded  loaf  sugar.  When  these  are  well 
mixed,  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  or  good 
milk,  and,  lastly,  stir  in  one  tablespoonful  of  vin- 
«gar.  Pour  the  dressing  over  the  salad  just  be- 
fore serving.  GERMAN  VEGETABLE  Soup-One  of  the 
most  nutritious  and  appetising  soups  known  to  the 
German  gourmet.  Put  into  a  stew-pan  12  onions, 
i  turnip,  and  a  head  of  cabbage,  j£  Ib.  of  butter, 
and  i  qt.  of  white  stock;  stew  till  tender.  Add 
another  qriart  of  stock,  pulp  the  vegetables,  and 


GER 

t 
boil  with  the  soup  %  an  hour,  stirring  constantly; 

just  before  serving  stir  }4  pt.  boiling  cream  and 
about  20  button  onions  picked  and  boiled  soft  in  milk 
and  water.  Season  with  salt,  and  thicken,  if  desired, 
with  rice-flour  worked  with  butter.  GERMAN 
STEWED  EELS — Cut  in  3  inch  pieces,  steeped  in  salt 
water  an  hour;  butter  and  flour  fried  together  and 
water  to  make  sauce  of  it;  garlic,  sage  leaves,  bay 
leaf,  mace,  cloves,  Rhine  wine,  eels  put  in  and  sim- 
mered an  hour.  GERMAN  ROAST  GOOSE — The  goose 
wiped  inside  and  filled  with  small  whole  apples, 
cored  but  not  peeled;  also  a  small  bunch  of  mug- 
wort.  Sewed  up,  salted,  the  goose  fat  spread  over 
it  and  buttered  paper;  roasted  in  the  oven  3  hours; 
gravy  made  in  the  pan.  BEEFSTEAK  MIT  SCHLAG- 
SAIINE — "I  have  dined  and  lunched  at  the  Zum 
Kniephof  since,  and  have  been  contented  with  the 
fare.  I  shall  speak  about  its  bill  of  fare  on  a  futuie 
occasion,  mentioning,  meanwhile,  that  beefsteak 
mil  Schlagsahne — that  is,  with  whipped  cream  on  it 
— is  a  specialty  of  the  house.  German  people  like 
their  beefsteaks  served  with  all  kinds  of  curious  ad- 
ditions, as  with  two  poached  eggs,  or  sardine-butter 
on  the  meat.  The  beefsteaks  are  always  good,  being 
cut  from  the  fillet.  I  have  not  had  a  single  tough 
beefsteak,  or  other  piece  of  meat,  since  I  have  been 
here."  KNIEPHOF  BROEDCHEN — "Another  special  • 
ty  at  the  Zum  Kniephof  is  the  Kniephof  Broedchen, 
or  sandwich.  I  asked  for  a  plate  of  this  out  of 
curiosity,  and  found  it  to  consist  of  six  slices  of  roll, 
each  differently  spread,  one  with  a  caviar,  two  with 
sausage,  one  with  veal,  one  with  beef,  and  one  with 
cheese,  arranged  in  star-fashion  round  a  centerpiece 
of  a  leaf  of  lettuce,  some  chopped  cucumber,  and  an 
anchovy.  The  price  of  this  assortment,  which  con- 
stituted a  complete  meal,  was  only  6d."  KRAM- 
METSVOGEL— "Another  not  so  substantial  but  tasty- 
dish  is  that  of  Krammetsvogel,  which  we  call  the 
field -fare.  This  little  bird,  roasted  and  served  upon 
buttered  toast,  is  in  taste  by  no  means  distant  from 
the  snipe,  and,  indeed,  but  for  the  beak,  might  well 
be  mistaken  for  it.  Sauerkraut  accompanies  the 
dish,  and  for  one  of  these  winter  tenants  of  the 
fields  the  diner  is  charged  during  the  hours  of  the 
mid-day  meal  the  sum  of  3d.,  a  not  high  price  for 
a  dainty  morsel."  CARAWAY  MAYONNAISE — "The 
refreshments  consisted  of  a  very  well  stocked  cold 
buffet,  from  which  I  fetched  a  plate  of  the  best  roast- 
beef  I  have  ever  eaten.  It  was  served  with  mayon- 
naise sauce,  which  was  flavored  with  caraway 
seeds."  GERMAN  HOTCH-POTCH — Neck  of  mut- 
ton broth  with  dried  green  peas  and  carrots  and 
turnips  cut  small,  and  celery  root  or  seed;  boiled 
i y2  hours,  some  mutton  chops  added;  seasonings, 
chops  and  soyp  served  together.  GERMAN  GIBLET 
Sot'P — Puree  of  white  beans  with  some  whole  boiled 
beans  added,  and  giblets  cut  small,  stewed  tender 
and  mixed  in.  GERMAN  GIBLETS  WITH  APPLES — 
Brown  giblet  stew  in  the  middle  of  the  dish,  gravy 
from  them  mixed  with  apple  juice  and  zante  cur- 
rents poured  over;  quarters  of  apples  stewed  with 


328 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


GER 

sugar  and  butter  placed  around.  GERMAN  GIBLETS 
WITH  PEARS — Goose  giblets  and  pork  chops  stewed 
together;  quartered  pears  stewed  in  the  giblet  liquor 
with  cloves  and  sugar  and  served  around  the  gib- 
lets in  a  dish.  GERMAN  GIBLETS  WITH  TURNIPS — 
Stewed  giblets  cut  small,  served  with  slices  of 
stewed  turnips  in  thick  sauce,  and  sippets  of  toasted 
bread.  GERMAN  TOAST — Canapes  of  toast  spread 
over  with  minced  stewed  meat  with  its  sauce,  the 
meat  to  be  stirred  over  the  fire  first,  with  eggs,  pars- 
ley and  seasoning;  after  spreading,  covered  with 
crumbs  and  browned.  GERMAN  SAUCE — For  cold 
meats,  boar's  head,  etc.,  currant  jelly,  juice  and 
shredded  rind  of  an  orange,  horseradish,  sugar, 
mustard,  vinegar,  salad  oil.  The  jelly  to  be  melted 
and  the  rest  stirred  into  it.  GERMAN  HORSERADISH 
SAUCE — Grated  horseradish  and  stewed  apples  in 
equal  quantities,  with  vinegar  and  little  sugar. 
FRANKFORT  SAUSAGES — Made  of  lean  pork,  fat  ba- 
con, red  wine  to  moisten,  ground  coriander  seed, 
nutmeg,  salt,  pepper,  boiled,  smoked.  CHICKEN 
KLOSSE — Forcemeat  balls  of  raw  chicken,  suet, 
bread,  eggs,  parsley,  seasoned,  boiled  in  clear  soup. 
GOOSE  LIVER  KLOSSE — Forcemeat  balls  of  minced 
liver  with  bread,  milk,  eggs,  etc.,  to  make  up  into  a 
paste;  may  be  either  boiled  in  soup  or  fried  same  as 
croquettes.  HERB  KLOSSE — Bread-crumbs,  grated 
cold  potatoes,  flour  and  eggs,  spinach  and  other 
herbs  parboiled,  all  made  up  into  forcemeat  balls, 
boiled,  rolled  in  fried  bread-crumbs,  served  with 
meat  or  alone.  POTATO  KLOSSE — Potato  croquettes. 
POTATO  KLOSSE  WITH  SUGAR — Sweetened  potato 
croquettes  served  with  sugar.  KLOSSE — Can  be  made 
of  any  kind  61  meat  mixed  with  soaked  biead- 
crumbs  and  seasoning,  either  boiled  or  fried,  served 
in  soup,  or  with  meat-stews  or  alone;  should  be  sent 
to  table  hot  anfl  light  as  soon  as  done.  MEHL  STERZ 
— Thick  mush  or  porridge  of  oatmeal  or  any  kind  of 
meal  with  plenty  of  butter  stirred  in.  HEIDELBERG 
PUNCH — Pieces  of  cucumber  sliced,  i  lemon  rind,  3 
tablespoons  sugar,  worked  together  with  the  back  of 
a  spoon;  3  tablespoons  brandy,  6 of  sherry,  i  bottle 
claret,  2  bottles  soda  water.  GERMAN  HONEY 
CAKES — Square  small  cakes  with  citron  strips  and 
almonds  on  top,  made  of  S  oz.  honey,  2  oz.  butten 
boiled  together;  rind  of  }^  lemon,  2  oz.  almonds 
pounded  nutmeg,  8  oz.  flour,  ^  oz.  soda  dissolved 
in  little  water.  Stand  till  next  day,  rolled  out  thick, 
decorated,  baked.  GERMAN  CAKES  —  Cookies, 
made  of  ij^  Ibs.  sugar,  %  Ib.  butter,  4  eggs, 
2  Ibs.  flour,  i  Ib.  currants,  nutmeg,  rosewater 
to  flavor.  Rolled  out  and  cut  in  cakes.  GERMAN 
OMELET — An  egg  pancake,  baked  on  both  sides; 
made  of  2  spoonfuls  flour,  3  eggs,  %  cup  cream  or 
milk,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  little  chopped  chives 
and  parsley.  When  the  pancake  is  baked  on  both 
sides  it  is  spread  with  puree  of  mushrooms  and  1 
rolled  up;  cut  in  pieces,  served  around  a  center  of  j 
vegetables  in  the  dish.  GERMAN  ALMOND  CAKES 
—Made  of  i  Ib.  butter,  i  Ib.  sugar,  3  eggs,  2  Ibs. 
flour,  i  gill  rose  water,  8  oz.  almonds,  i  teaspoon 


GIG 

cinnamon.  Rolled  out,  egged  over,  the  blanched 
almonds  chopped,  and  sugar  spread  over;  cut  in 
cakes  and  baked.  GERMAN  CREAM— Rich  cream 
boiled  up,  flavored  with  sugar,  lemon  and  brandy; 
served  cold  in  a  state  of  froth  by  being  shaken  up. 
GERMAN  CROUST AD ES— Patty  shapes  of  fried  bread 
filled  with  minced  chicken.  GERMAN  FRITTERS — 
See  Berlin  pancakes  and  apple  fritters.  GERMAN- 
CUP  PUDDINGS— Made  of  2  oz.  flour,  4  oz.  butter,  i 
pt.  milk,  2  oz.  sugar,  3  eggs,  lemon  flavor;  the  flour 
stirred  up  with  the  milk,  butter  softened  and  beaten 
in  with  sugar  and  eggs,  baked  in  buttered  cups; 
whipped  German  custard  sauce.  GERMAN  PUD- 
DING, STEAMED — Made  of  8  oz.  bread-crumbs,  3  oz. 
each  sugar  and  butter,  4  eggs.  A  layer  of  this  mix- 
ture alternately  with  layer  of  jam  or  jelly  in  a 
mould;  steamed.  GERMAN  RICE  PUDDING — A  rice 
and  raisin  custard,  made  of  4  oz.  rice  boiled  in  I  pt. 
milk,  mixed  with  4  oz.  butter,  2  oz.  almonds 
pounded  (or  paste),  2  oz.  each  sugar  and  raisins, 
little  cinnamon,  3  yolks.  Just  before  boiling  or  bak- 
ing'. 3  whipped  whites  stirred  in.  GERMAN  PUD- 
DING SAUCE — Light  wine  with  sugar  boiled  up  and 
poured  to  beaten  yolks,  not  allowed  to  boil  again, 
but  whipped  to  froth  and  served  hot.  GERMAN 
PUFFS— Made  of  i  qt.  milk,  S  oz.  flour,  S  oz.  butter, 
2  eggs,  nutmeg  and  cinnamon.  Flour  stirred  up 
with  milk,  softened  butter  beaten  in,  eggs  whipped 
stirred  in;  baked  in  buttered  cups,  served  with  pud- 
ding sauce,  or  hot  for  breakfast.  CAGE  BIRO 
PASTE,  GERMAN  —  Made  of  4  hard-boiled  yolks 
pounded  in  a  mortar  with  i  Ib.  white  pea  meal  and 
i  tablespoon  olive  oil;  mixed  to  a  dough,  pressed 
through  a  colander  to  form  grains  like  shot,  fried 
over  the  fire  light  brown,  put  away  dry  for  use. 

GHERKINS — Small  cucumbers  of  a  dwarf  kind; 
also  young  common  cucumbers.  Used  for  pickling. 

GIBIER  (Fr.)— Game.  PATE  DE  GIBIER— Game 
pie. 

GIBLETS— The  neck,  liver,  gizzard,  heart  and 
feet  of  geese  and  ducks  and  similar  trimmings  of 
any  fowls.  PATE  D'ABATIS  D'OiE — Pie  of  goose- 
giblets.  ABATIS  DE  DINDE — Turkey-giblets.  GIB- 
LET  PATTIES — The  gizzards  boiled  until  tender  sep- 
arately; then  cut  from  the  hard  skin  into  small  dice; 
livers,  etc.;  stewed  in  wine-gravy;  gizzards  added; 
filled  into  patty  cases,  or  croustades,  or  cassolettes. 
GIBLET  SOUP — Good  stock  of  mixed  meats  and  poul- 
try; giblets  and  vegetables  cut  fn  dice  in  it,  and  little 
barley  or  rice. 

GIGOT  (Fr.) — Leg  or  ham;  especially  a  leg  of 
mutton.  GIGOT  ROTI — Roast  leg  of  mutton.  GIGOT 
BOUILLI  AUX  CAPRES — Boiled  leg  of  mutton;  caper 
sauce.  GIGOT  A  LA  POLONAISE — Leg  of  mutton  in 
Polish  style;  braised,  cut  in  slices  without  severing 
them  from  the  bone,  and  a  stuffing  put  between  each 
slice.  GIGOT  A  LA  BRETONNE  —  Leg  stuffed  and 
braised;  served  with  Bretonne  sauce  and  stewed 
white  beans.  GIGOT  A  LA  RUSSE — Leg  ff  mutton 
roasted,  and  the  cooking  finished  in  burning  brandy. 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


329 


GIN 

served  with  the  gravy  and  brandy.  GIGOT  A  LA 
PROVEN^ ALE — Leg  of  mutton  with  strips  of  garlic 
inserted;  roasted  and  served  with  Bretonne  sauce. 
GIGOT  D'AGNEAU  A  LA  PALESTINE— Leg  of  lamb 
boiled;  served  with  puree  of  Jerusalem  artichokes. 
GIGOT  D'AGNEAU  AUX  EPINARDS— Leg  of  Iamb 
with  spinach.  GIGOT  DE  PORC  BOUILLI— Boiled  leg 
of  pork  with  vegetables.  GIGOT  DE  PORC  A  LA  PIE- 
MONTAISE— Leg  of  pork  roasted;  served  with  brown 
sauce,  pickles,  and  olives,  GIGOT  DE  PORC  A 
L'ALLEMANDE— Leg  of  pickled  pork  boiled,  and 
served  with  cabbage,  sauerkraut  or  other  vegetables. 
GIGOT  D'OuRS — Leg  of  bear. 

GIN— Spirit  made  from  wheat  or  other  malted 
grain,  flavored  with  juniper  berries.  "  In  the  reign 
of  Henry  XIII  it  was  decreed  that  there  should  be 
but  one  maker  of  aqua  rites,  as  whisky  and  gin  were 
then  called,  in  every  borough,  under  a  penalty  of  six 
shillings  and  eight  pence,  a  sum  of  much  more  value 
in  those  days  than  it  is  now.  Some  idea  of  the  ex- 
tensive trade  done  at  the  present  time  in  this  spirit 
mav  be  gathered  from  the  fact  that  there  are  at 
Schiedam  alone  upwards  of  300  distilleries,  or  rather 
manufactories,  of  malt  wine,  which  is  the  basis  of 
prime  geneva.  Juniper  berries  are  round,  of  a  black- 
ish-purple color,  and  contain  an  essential  oil  which, 
when  obtained  separately,  is  of  a  greenish-yellow 
color,  and  resembles  in  odor  and  taste  oil  of  turpen- 
tine. It  is  greatly  superior  and  far  more  beneficial 
to  the  health  than  the  latter,  but  owing  to  its  greater 
price  oil  of  turpentine  is  largely  used  by  the  less 
conscientious  distillers. 

GINGEMBRE  (Fr.)— Ginger. 

GIXGER— The  root  of  a  reed-like  plant  with  an- 
nual leafy  stems  3  to  4  feet  high.  Cultivated  in  warm 
countries;  does  not  grow  wild.  The  common  brown 
ginger-root  is  in  its  natural  state;  the  white,  known 
as  Jamaica  ginger,  is  the  root  scraped  and  washed 
free  from  its  outer  coating.  Ground  ginger  is  con- 
siderably adulterated,  generally  with  starchy  sub- 
stances and  also  with  old  ginger  from  which  the 
"essence  of  ginger"  has  been  extracted.  GINGER 
PUDDING — "  For  a  wonder  the  confirmed  joker  of  a 
proprietor  was  serious!  He  didn't  perpetrate  above 
three  puns  and  four  witticisms  per  minute!  On  his 
memi  for  the  day  was  ginger  pudding,  and  he  asked 
me  to  try  it,  which  1  did.  It  is  such  a  capital,  yet 
inexpensive  specimen  of  culinary  art  that  I  asked 
him  for  the  recipe.  Here  it  is:  Ginger  Pndcling- 
2  Ibs.  bread -crumbs,  %  Ib.  finely  chopped  suet,  I  Ib. 
molasses,  %  Ib.  sugar,  i  oz.  baking  powder,  %  oz. 
ground  ginger,  3  eggs;  boil  in  buttered  moulds; 
should  the  mixture  be  too  stiff,  add  a  little  milk  spar- 
ingly, the  pudding  ought  to  come  out  of  a  light 
golden  color,  and  be  as  light  as  a  feather.  I  commend 
this  to  caterers  who  have  to  give  plenty  for  money." 
"I  have  met  another  ginger  pudding  of  late,  which 
has  about  a  dozen  different  names.  The  most  pop- 
ular, however,  are  'Chinese  Pudding"  and  'Golden 
Pudding.'  This  new  thing  is  merely  a  very  light 


GLA 

but  sweet  plain  pudding  with  lumps  (about  i-inch 
cubes)  of  Chy-loong  preserved  ginger  in  it,  and 
served  with  custard  sauce  colored  with  saffron.  On 
dit  that  this  novelty  originated  at  Smedley's  Hydro, 
at  Buxton."  GINGER  BEER— Is  made  of  zj^  Ibs. 
sugar,  2  oz.  bruised  ginger,  4  lemons  (rind  and  juice), 
J£  oz.  cream  tartar;  2%  gls.  boiling  water  poured  to 
them  in  an  earthen  jar;  when  cold,  little  yeast  added; 
stand  till  next  day ;  then  bottled,  and  corks  tied  down ; 
ready  for  use  in  2  days.  GINGERBREAD — Old-fash- 
ioned sort  made  of  i}£  Ibs.  black  molasses,  J^  Ib. 
butter,  3  eggs,  i  oz.  ginger,  ^  Ib.  brown  sugar,  24 
oz. flour,  caraway  seeds,  candied  peel,  juice  of  lemon, 
i  teaspoon  soda;  all  mixed  over  night,  worked  like 
bread,  baked  in  flat  sheet  i  inch  thick,  brushed  over 
with  milk.  THIN  GINGER  WAFERS— Pounded  gin- 
ger, i  oz. ;  butter,  4  oz. ;  flour,  4  oz. ;  golden  syrup, 
4  oz.  Beat  the  butter  and  mix  with  the  golden 
syrup;  stir  in  the  flour  and  ginger;  roll  out  thin  and 
bake  for  15  minutes  in  slow  oven;  roll  like  wafers 
whilst  warm.  GINGER  SNAPS— One  pint  molasses 
and  i  cup  lard  heated  together  and  poured  hot  in  I 
qt.  flour,  2  teaspoons  soda  and  2  ginger;  let  this 
dough  cool,  add  flour  enough  to  roll ;  roll  thin  and 
bake  quick.  GINGERBREAD  FAIR — "The  great  gin- 
gerbread fair  is  in  full  swing  now  at  Pans.  I  have 
often  wondered  why  the  Paris  Municipal  Council 
don't  tender  for  the  unsold  stock  of  the  vendors  of 
gingerbread.  The  wood-paving  they  use  is  so  un- 
satisfactory that  something  more  solid,  more  heavy, 
and  more  wear-resisting  might  well  be  tried  in  its 
stead!" 

GIPSY  PUDDING— Or  gipsy  cake;  also  called 
tipsy  cake  and  tipsy  parson.  A  sponge  cake  pricked 
all  over  with  a  fork  is  saturated  with  wine  and 
brandy  poured  over  it  at  intervals  as  it  soaks  up  the 
liquor.  Split-almonds  stuck  all  over  it,  rich  flavored 
custard  poured  around  and  served  with  it,  cold. 

GIRAUMONS  (Fr.)— Vegetable  marrows;  sum- 
mer squashes. 

GLACE  (Fr.) — Means  both  iced  or  glossed  over, 
as  an  iced  cake,  and  frozen.  GREME  GLACE— Ice 
cream.  BISCUITS  GLACES— Cakes  of  ice  cream. 

GLADSTONE  PUDDING— A  pear  custard  pie 
made  of  a  layer  of  lady  fingers  in  bottom  of  dish, 
canned  bartlett  pears  sliced  over  them,  yolk-of-egg 
custard  poured  in,  puff  paste  crust  on  top,  egged 
and  sugared;  glass  of  sherry  in  when  done;  served 
cold. 

GLAZE — It  is  what  remains  when  meat  liquor  is 
boiled  down  till  nearly  dry;  it  is  extract  of  meat;  it 
is  meat  gravy  dried  down  thick  enough  to  set  solid 
when  cold.  It  is  improved  by  the  cooks  by  flavor- 
ings of  herbs,  etc.,  added  while  it  is  boiling,  and  is 
strained  and  skimmed,  making  it  a  brown,  stiff 
jelly;  but  that  from  chicken  and  veal  is  not  dark, 
and  is  mentioned  in  cooking  directions  as  white 
glaze.  Used  to  add  to  sauces  to  make  them  rich 
and  meaty,  and  to  enrich  soups  when  the  meat  is 
insufficient;  also  used  to  glaze  or  varnish  over 


330 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


GLA 

cooked  meats  and  vegetables  before  sending  them 
to  table,  making  them  glossy  and  tempting  in  ap 
pearance.  "The  glaze  is  melted  like  glue  and  ap 
plied  with  a  brush  like  varnish;  a  glaze-pot  is  made 
on  the  same  principle  as  a  glue-pot.  I  remember 
some  years  ago  getting  up  a  dinner  where  the 
kitchen  windows  abut  upon  the  pavement  of  Park 
Lane,  by  Hyde  Park.  I  was  engaged  in  glazing 
some  hums  and  tongues,  when  I  became  aware  that 
my  proceedings  were  being  intently  watched  by  a 
group  of  street  arabs,  one  of  whom  could  contain 
his  feelings  no  longer,  but  shouted  to  his  pals:  'Hi! 
look  'ere,  see!  why,  the  cove  in  the  white  jacket  is 
a-varnishing  the  meat.'  Buy  glaze  from  the  chefs 
in  gentlemen's  families;  the  ordinary  glaze  of  gen- 
eral commerce  is  made  from  beef  only  reduced  to  a 
sort  of  glue,  but  a  chefs  stock  or  bone -pot  in  a 
good  family  contains  beef,  veal,  and  the  carcasses 
of  poultry  and  game,  thus  forming  a  much  richer 
and  tastier  glaze  than  if  from  beef  only,  which  is 
comparatively  insipid.  After  the  soups  and  sauces 
are  made  from  the  first  boilings,  the  pot  is  boiled  up 
with  all  the  scrap  bones  and  meat  cuttings  and  all 
other  good  things;  it  is  then  strained  off  and  boiled 
down  rapidly  until  it  assumes  the  consistency  of 
glue;  it  is  then  poured  into  skins  while  hot,  or  into 
basins  and  solidifies  into  solid  essence  of  sopp,  dif- 
fering from  the  essence  of  beef  sold  by  manufactur- 
ers, in  the  fact  that  it  contains  the  gelatine  as  well 
as  the  meat,  poultry  and  game  essences.  You  can 
sometimes  arrange  to  buv  this  glaze  from  chefs  at 
2s.  6d.  per  lb.,  as  after  reserving  an  abundant  sup- 
ply for  family  use,  the  overplus  is  generally  the 
chefs  perquisite.  This  glaze  dissolved  in  boiling 
water  and  boiled  up  makes  splendid  clear  soup." 

GLACE  DE  VIANDE— "One  of  the  last  author- 
ities on  the  dying  art  of  cookery  in  France,  the  last 
eloquent  writer  thereupon,  the  Marquis  de  Cherville, 
published  a  few  days  ago  a  learned  article  on  Dumas 
fere  from  the  gastronomical  point  of  view;  and, 
speaking  of  his  proficiency  and  of  his  fidelity  to  tra- 
dition, said:  '  Never  would  that  genuine  artist  have 
allowed  himself  in  the  confection  of  a  sauce,  to  ac- 
cept bouillon  as  a  substitute  for  glace  de  viande.' 
And  this  opens  up  to  the  uninitiated  a  vista  as  wide 
as  the  backgrounds  of  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  the  in- 
finite whereof  remains  amystery  still  to  the  profane. 
Imagination  is  wanting  in  the  female  cook;  and 
therefore  does  no  woman  ever  make  a  jus.  She  stops 
at  the  soup  and  the  bouilli.  But,  if  your  purse  per- 
mits, you  must  sacrifice  both  of  these  to  make  a  jus, 
or  that  glace  de  viande  for  which  Dumas  would  ac- 
cept no  substitute.  When  twelve  or  fourteen  quarts 
of  water  are  reduced  to  half,  and  the  entire  ingre- 
dients are  taken  away,  then  begins  the  'reduction,' 
in  good  earnest,  and  from  the  remaining  essence 
you  obtain  your  fond  de  jus." 

GLAZING  CAKES— Means  to  make  them  shine 
by  either  egging,  or  egging  and  sugaring  the  tops, 
or  by  brushing  over  with  milk,  or  by  covering  with 
sugar  and  water  icing. 


GON 

GLUCOSE — Grape  sugar  or  the  kind  of  sugar 
that  will  not  granulate.  The  recent  discoveries  of 
methods  of  making  it  abundantly  have  had  a  great 
effect  upon  the  confectionery  trade,  glucose  being 
but  about  half  the  price  of  sugar,  and  consequently 
a  cheapener  of  candies,  syrups,  jellies,  and  numer- 
ous other  compounds.  One,  perhaps  the  principal 
method  of  producing  glucose  is  by  treating  corn 
meal  with  sulphuric  acid,  which  changes  the  corn  to 
a  sweet  gum.  In  the  great  corn-producing  regions 
there  are  immense  buildings  erected  especially,  one 
in  Chicago  being  nine  stories  in  height,  an  entire 
block  of  brick.  Glucose  is  as  wholesome  as  any 
other  syrup.  In  appearance  it  is  like  the  white  syrup 
known  as  silver  drips,  but  is  too  thick  to  run;  can 
be  taken  up  on  a  pallet  knife  like  the  thickest  mo- 
lasses in  cold  weather;  is  as  clear  as  glass.  It  comes 
in  another  form,  however,  in  barrels,  when  it  is 
lumpy  like  gum  and  syrup  mixed,  when  it  is  at  the 
nearest  approach  to  being  sugar.  It  costs  about  an 
average  of  four  cents  a  pound.  GLUCOSE  IN  ICE 
CREAM — One  good  use  of  it  is  to  sweeten  ice  cream, 
the  effect  when  the  cream  is  well  worked  ii  to  make 
it  very  smooth  and  soft  to  the  palate.  IN  CANDIES- 
It  is  used  with  about  twice  its  weight  of  sugar  in 
making  gum-drops  and  all  that  class  of  goods,  and 
in  imitation  fruit-jellies,  maple  syrups  and  cheap- 
ening devices  of  many  descriptions.  GLUCOSE  IN 
BREAD — "The  bakers  are  endeavoring  to  make  first- 
quality  bread  out  of  low-grade  flour.  A  successful 
attempt  in  this  line  is  reported  as  having  been  made 
by  a  Swiss  baker,  who  mixes  glucose,  or  starch- 
sugar,  with  low-grade  flour,  and  is  thereby  enabled 
to  turn  out  a  loaf  which  closely  resembles  the  pro- 
duct of  high-grade  flours,  at  a  lessened  cost."  GLU- 
COSE IN  SUGAR  BOILING — It  has  the  same  effect  to 
prevent  sugar  going  to  grains  again  as  acids  have. 
GLUCOSE  IN  CREAM  CRACKERS — Is  said  to  have  a 
very  decided  effect  in  improving  the  quality  of  sweet 
crackers,  especially  iu  giving  a  smooth  appearance 
and  fine  color.  GLUCOSE  IN  SODA  SYRUPS — This  is 
one  of  the  principal  uses  of  it;  the  syrups  are  foamy» 
smooth  and  delicious  when  made  with  glucose. 
GLUCOSE  IN  TOBACCO — It  is  added  to  chewing  to- 
bacco instead  of  molasses,  and  in  larger  proportion, 
as  it  increases  the  weight  of  the  tobacco  to  an  extent 
very  profitable  to  the  makers. 

GODARD  GARNISH  — Slices  of  sweetbreads 
and  truffles,  heads  of  mushrooms,  quenelles  and 
quartered  artichokes  with  brown  sauce.  ALOYAU 
DE  BCEUF  A  LA  GODARD — Sirloin  of  beef  baked  in 
wine,  tomato  sauce,  etc.,  served  with  godard  gar- 
nishing. 

GODIVEAU  (Fr.)— Veal  forcemeat;  white  veal 
with  cooked  udder,  bacon  or  suet  pounded  to  a  fine 
paste;  variously  mixed  with  eggs,  cream,  bread, 
etc.,  to  make  forcemeat  balls,  quenelles,  meat-pie 
linings  and  garnishes. 

GONDINGO— Florida-Spanish  name  of  a  thick 
soup  made  of  liver  and  giblets,  onions,  green  pep- 
pers, and  rice. 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


331 


GOO 

GOOBER  OR  GUBER  PEA— Southern  popular 
n.me  for  the  pea -nut  or  ground  nut. 

GORGONZOLA— One  of  the  present  favorite 
dinner  cheeses,  said  to  have  largely  displaced  En- 
glish Stilton.  It  is  an  Italian  cheese;  can  be  found 
at  most  of  the  fancy  groceries  or  wine  and  oil  im- 
porting houses.  To  KEEP  GORGONZOLA  CHEESE — 
Cover  it  thoroughly  with  well-buttered  white  paper, 
so  as  effectually  to  exclude  the  air;  then  wrap  it  in 
brown  paper.  It  should  be  looked  at  from  time  to 
time,  and  fresh  buttered  paper  put  on.  It  should  be 
kept  in  a  cool  dry  place. 

GOOSE  —  "A  dinner  was  given  one  day  not  long 
ago  to  William  M.  Evarts,  the  American  lawyer, 
who  is  a  great  epicure.  One  of  the  courses,  roast 
stuffed  goose,  seemed  especially  to  please  the  palate 
of  the  learned  gentleman,  and  he  lent  himself  thereto 
with  much  vigor.  After  dinner  came  speeches,  and 
in  the  course  of  one  of  them  a  gentleman  asked  this 
conundrum:  'What  great  change  has  taken  place 
during  this  dinner?'  It  was  given  up.  He  had  to 
answer  his  own  conundrum— 'When  we  began,  we 
had  a  goose  stuffed  with  sage;  now  we  have  fin- 
ished, we  have  a  sage  stuffed  with  goose.'  "  GOOSE 
WITH  SAGE  AND  ONIONS — "Sage  and  onions  are  the 
traditional  concomitants  of  the  seasoning.  It  is  that 
which  Queen  Elizabeth  favored  when  she  made  a 
goose  at  Michaelmas,  the  fashionable  dish  of  her 
age,  and  a  national  dish  for  many  ages  to  come.  It 
was  sage  and  onions  Old  Dr.  Parr  of  '  Life  Pill ' 
fame  delighted  to  revel  in.  It  was  the  savory  smell 
that  made  him  squeeze  his  friend's  hand  (when  he 
descended  to  the  vicar's  modest  parlor  after  chang- 
ing his  rain-besoakedclothingandawaitingdinner), 
as  he  exclaimed :  '  How  kind  otyou,  my  dear  friend, 
when  you  know  I'm  tho  fond  of  roath  goothe,'  and 
it  was  only  the  poor  doctor's  horse-hair  wig  and 
some  onion  peelings  behind  the  fire.  The  dinner 
was  shoulder  of  mutton  and  onion  sauce."  GREEN 
GOOSE — "A  plump  little  green -goose  is  considered 
by  epicures  to  be  the  daintiest  of  morsels;  but  the 
young  stubble  or  autumn  goose  of  5  or  6  months  old 
is  most  appreciated  by  the  general  public  and  the 
caterer.  Its  flavor  is  more  developed,  there  is  more 
of  it  to  carve  at,  it  is  not  so  strong  as  its  elder  breth- 
.ren  either  in  flavor  or  sinew."  Green-goose  is  in 
season  from  April  till  July,  or  until  it  is  3  months 
old.  In  preparing  it  for  roasting,  it  is  generally 
dipped  in  boiling  water,  which  has  the  effect  of 
opening  the  pores  of  the  skin,  and  permitting  the  re- 
moval of  the  feathers  without  breaking  it.  The  bird 
is  then  drawn  and  prepared  for  roasting.  THE 
STUBBLE- GOOSE — Is  properly  5  to  7  months  old.  It 
is  picked  in  the  usual  way  that  all  poultry  are  re- 
lieved of  their  feathers.  The  head  is  removed,  leav- 
ing the  neck  attached  to  it,  and  so  cut  that  about  2 
inches  of  the  skin  that  covers  the  neck  is  left  on  the 
body.  The  bird  is  emptied  in  the  usual  way,  and  the 
feet  cut  off.  It  is  then  wiped  out.  Green-geese 
should  not  be  stuffed.  Stubble-geese  may  be,  espec- 


GOO 

ially  when  they  are  served  as  "  Michaelmas-geese." 
FIVE   GEESE — "Madame  Guiccioli  said  of  Bvron, 
that  he  insisted  upon  keeping  up  old  customs  in 
small  things,   such  as   having  hot  cross   buns  on 
Good  Friday  and  roast  goose  on  Michaelmas  Day. 
This  last  fancy  led  to  a  grotesque  result.     After 
buying  a  goose  and  fearing  it  might  be  too  lean,  he 
fed  it  every  day  for  a  month  previously,  so  that  the 
poet  and  the  bird  became  so  mutually  attached  that 
when  September  29  arrived  he  could  not  kill  it,  but 
bought  another,  and  had  the  pet  goose  swung  in  a 
cage  under  his  carriage  when  he  traveled,  so  that 
after  four  years  he  was  moving  about  with  four 
geese.     GOOSE  AND  SWAN — It  is  a  curious  illustra- 
tion of  the  de  gustibus  non  est  disputandum,  that 
the  ancients  considered  the  swan  as  a  high  delicacy 
and  abstained  from  the  flesh  of  the  goose  as  im- 
pure and  indigestible.    TOULOUSE  SALE  o'OiE— In 
the  Toulouse  district,  famous  for  its  geese,  those 
birds  are  never  roasted  or  baked,  being  for  the  most 
part  treated  as  follows:    They  are  cut  into  pieces 
and  put  on  a  good  fire  in  a  copper  vessel  wRh  a 
proper  addition  of  salt.    When  cooked  they  are  laid 
in  pots  and  covered  with  fat.    This  is  called  sale 
d'oie,  or  salted  goose,  and  is  found  in  every  house 
in  the  district.     GOOSE  DINNER — In  a  dinner  made 
up  principally  of  the  bird,  which  is — or  was  in  the 
days  of  James  and   Horace  Smith — "uncommon 
common  on  a  common":     "Dish  No.  2,  if  not  ex- 
actly a  mystery,  was  at  least  a  gastronomic  revel- 
ation to  those  who  had  never  tasted  a  goose  stuffed 
with  truffles  and  olives  two  days  before  cooking, 
then  roasted  and  served  with  rich  brown  gravy  and 
potato  straws.     The  third  dish  was  simply  a  boiled 
goose  served  with  the  accompaniments  of  pickled 
pork,  celery  sauce  and  vegetables.    The  fourth  dish 
brought  to  light  a  roast  goose  stuffed  with  chest- 
nuts and  apples  (in  the  German  fashion),  and  eaten 
with  brown  gravy  and  saut6  potatoes.    The  fifth 
and  last  dish  was  also  a  roast  goose,  with  a  savory 
lining  of  veal  stuffing  served  with  rich  gravy,  peas 
a  la  Francaise,  and  mashed  potatoes.     By  the  time 
justice  had  been  done  to  this  repast,  the  cry  went 
round,     '  not   too    much    goose,    but    just    goose 
enough.'  "    ROAST  GOOSE — Sage  and  onion  stuff- 
ing is  the  general  accompaniment  of  roast  goose. 
If  a  strong  flavor  of  onion  is  liked,  the  onions  should 
be  chopped  raw;  if  this  is  not  the  case,  they  should 
be  boiled  in  one,  two  or  three  waters,  and  mixed 
with'  a  large  or  small  quantity  of  bread-crumbs. 
Truss  the  goose  firmly,  tie  the  openings  securely, 
place  it  in  a  deep  pan  with  water  enough  to  prevent 
burning,  and  a  little  drippings,  cover  with  a  but- 
tered paper;  baste  continuously  until  done.   A  goose 
is  both  unwholesome  and  unpalatable  if  insuffic- 
iently cooked.     When  done,  take  it  up,  remove  the 
skewers  and  fastenings,  pour  gravy  round  it  and 
send  apple  sauce  to  table  with  it.    The  time  required 
to  cook  a  medium-sized  goose  is  from  one  honr  to 
one  hour  and  a  half.     BRAISED  GOOSE  A  L'ALSA- 
CIENNE — Stuffed  with  pork  sausage  meat  extra  high 


332 


THE    STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


GOO 

seasoned  and  mixed  with  bread-crumbs;  braised  in 
covered  vessel  with  white  wine  and  broth,  and 
aromatics;  served  with  broiled  sausages,  boiled 
chestnuts  in  bouillon,  and  balls  of  potatoes  fried, 
and  gravy  made  of  the  braise  liquor.  GOOSE  LIVER 
—  Goose  liver  or  foie  gras  is  extensively  used  in 
sandwiches.  Cut  it  into  thin  slices,  place  them  be- 
tween slices  of  buttered  bread,  add  a  little  French 
mustard,  a  drop  or  two  of  lemon  juice,  and  serve. 
ROAST  GOOSE  A  LA  MOUNT  VERNON— Young  goose 
stuffed  with  mashed  potatoes,  which  contain  a 
slight  seasoning  of  lightly  fried  onions.  Apples  in 
halves,  pared,  baked  in  goose-grease  and  little 
sugar,  served  with  the  roasted  goose.  GOOSE  A 
L'ARLESIENNE — Goose  stuffed  with  forcemeat  made 
of  onions,  chestnuts,  bread,  parsley  and  seasonings. 
Braised  in  stock  with  aromatics  for  2  hours;  served 
with  tomato  sauce  made  of  the  braise  liquor  and 
drained  tomatoes.  GOOSE  PIE — Is  made  like  game 
pie  or  patd,  to  cut  cold,  or  cut  up;  half-fried,  then 
stewed  and  covered  \\  ith  paste  and  baked.  GEESE 
IN  EGYPT — The  Egyptians  served  geese  at  their 
meals  every  day;  it  was,  with  veal,  the  favorite 
dish  of  their  monarchs,  and  they  did  not  forget  to 
offer  some  to  King  Agesilaus  when  he  was  travel- 
ing through  the  country. 

GOOSEBERRY  — A  fruit  of  but  little  conse- 
quence in  the  United  States;  most  congenial  to  cool 
and  moist  climates;  very  prominent  among  English 
fruits.  GOOSEBERRY  CHAMPAGNE— A  good  trade 
is  being  done  in  the  district  of  Hedemarken,  in  Nor- 
way, in  gooseberry  champagne.  It  is  a  well-known 
fact  that  more  champagne  is  drunk  every  year  in 
America  alone  than  is  produced  in  the  province 
from  which  the  wine  takes  its  name.  Of  course,  a 
large  quantity  is  genuine  champagne,  but  a  still 
larger  quantity  is  made  up  from  cider,  gooseberry 
and  rhubarb  juice.  This  gooseberry  champagne 
is  remarkably  good,  and  is  fast  gaining  favor  in 
Sweden  and  the  United  States;  but  beer  is  much 
preferred  by  the  Norwegians.  Made  by  mashing 
40  Ibs.  of  ripe  berries  in  a  tub  with  4  gallons  water, 
lukewarm;  left  to  steep  a  day,  pulped  through  a 
seive;  30  Ibs.  sugar  added  and  water  to  make  up  11 
gals.  Add  3  oz.  crude  tartar,  let  ferment  itself  in 
warm  place  2  days,  drawn  off  into  10  gal.  keg  and 
stoppered  when  fermentation  ceases,  or  in  loor  12 
days;  is  bottled  6 months  afterwards.  GOOSEBERRY 
PICKLE — A  very  favorite  pickle  in  some  parts  of 
France  is  gooseberries  preserved  in  vinegar.  .  The 
variety  usually  pickled  is  the  small  red  one,  pickled 
before  maturity.  This  pickle  suits  some  people 
amazingly,  but  as  to  me,  my  teeth  are  on  edge  with 
no  likelihood  of  getting  off,  by  merely  writing  these 
lines.  GOOSEBERRY  SOUFFLE — Gooseberry  pulp, 
well  sweetened  in  the  stewing,  placed  in  a  glass 
dish,  yolk  custard  poured  over,  whipped  whites  on 
top;  cold.  GOOSEBERRY  FOOL — English  institution; 
stewed  green  gooseberries  with  sugar  and  milk  or 
cream,  or  milk  mixed  in  and  whipped  cream  on  top. 
GOOSEBERRY  SAUCE — Same  way  as  apple  sauce, 


GRA 

eaten  with  roast  goose  and  pork.  TARTS  DE  GRO- 
SEILLES  VERTES — Green  gooseberry  open  pies. 
POUDING  AUX  GROSEILLES— A  gooseberry  crearh 
pie,  made  of  puree  of  gooseberries,  bread-crumbs, 
butter,  eggs  and  sugar.  GOOSEBERRY  MARASCHINO 
— An  imitation,  like  gooseberry  champagne;  made 
of  25  Ibs.  of  best  red  ripe  gooseberries  and  5  Ibs. 
wild  cherries  and  cherry  leaves,  all  bruised  and 
steeped  in  i  gal.  gin  for  two  weeks.  Filtered 
through  a  jelly  bag,  3  pts.  clear  white  sugar-syrup 
added;  bottled. 

GOUJOX  (Fr.) — Gudgeon;  a  small  river  fish. 
GOURMET  AND  GOURMAND— "There  are 
two  broad  varieties  in  French  lovers  of  eating — the 
gourmets  and  the  gourmands.  The  difference  be- 
tween them  is  so  great  that  they  may  be  considered 
as  complete  opposites.  The  gourmand  is  a  mere 
glutton,  who  eats  as  much  as  he  can,  devouring  one 
dish  after  another.  The  gourmand  \s  the  man  who 
omits  not  one  of  the  dishes  at  a  table-d1 hole,  and 
then  complains  that  he  cannot  dine  properly  in 
that  hotel.  The  gourmet,  on  the  contrary,  is  a  pro- 
duct of  high  civilization.  He  enjoys  with  discrim- 
ination, and  he  is  quite  on  the  side  of  temperance; 
he  even  values  the  commonest  things,  if  they  are 
excellent  of  their  own  kind.  A  French  gourmet 
once  said  to  me,  '  I  am  excessively  fond  of  oysters; 
but  I  never  exceed  one  dozen,  being  convinced  that 
after  the  first  dozen  the  palate  has  become  incapable 
of  fully  appreciating  the  flavor.'  A  real  gourmet 
preserves  his  palate  in  the  healthiest  and  most  nat- 
ural condition;  he  prefers  the  simplest  meal,  such 
as  fried  mutton  chop,  if  it  is  really  well  cooked,  to 
an  elaborate  banquet  where  the  cookery  is  less  than 
excellent. 

"  But  a  plain  leg  of  mutton,  my  Lucy, 
I  Pr'ythee  get  ready  at  three : 
Have  it  smoking,  and  tender,  and  juicy, 
And  what  better  meat  can  there  be?"  ' 

I  knew  a  Parisian  who  was  a  gourmet  in  Thacke 
ray's  manner,  and  his  way  of  living  was  to  order 
one  dish  of  meat,  one  of  vegetables,  and  a  little  des- 
sert, at  an  excellent  and  expensive  restaurant  a  la 
carte.  He  did  not  desire  the  more  abundant  feeding 
at  the  restaurantes  a  prixfixe  and  the  tables-d' hole. 
He  drank  very  moderately  also;  in  a  word,  he  lived 
as  a  gentleman  ought  to  live,  without  excess,  yet 
with  perfect  appreciation." 

GOUT  (Fr.)— Taste;  flavor.  GOUTEZ  LA  !— Taste 
it!  HAUT-GOUT — High-flavor. 

GRAHAM — Name  of  a  Boston  physician  who 
zealously  advocated  the  use  of  unbolted  wheat-meal 
for  bread  instead  of  fine  flour,  hence  the  name  of 
Graham  flour,  bread,  farina,  etc.,  all  made  of  whole 
meal. 

GRANITO  (It.) — Iced  punch  of  various  sorts. 
(See  Ices.) 

GRAPES— Among  the  best  of  fruits  to  serve  for 
breakfast  and  always  welcome  at  dinner.  The  Con- 
cord grape  is  the  staple  variety  available  in  this 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


333 


country,  and  taking  it  altogether  it  is  the  best,  for 
while  there  are  others  more  delicate  in  flavor  and 
more  attractive  in  color,  there  are  none  so  evenly 
ripe,  so  juicy,  so  sweet,  so  good  to  last  through 
several  months,  so  reliable  and  unfailing.  MUSCA- 
DINE— A  Southern  native  grape  of  high  musky  fla- 
vor. ScfPPERNONG-A  large,  coarse  Southern  native 
grape,  good  for  wine;  comes  to  market  without 
stems,  like  baskets  of  plums;  is  dull -yellow  or  olive- 
colored.  MALAGA  GRAPES— Imported  in  kegs,  pack- 
ed in  sawdust;  cost  about  twice  as  much  as  nacive 
grapes;  firm,  green,  sweet;  the  kind  to  buy  for  par- 
ty suppers  and  for  dessert  in  winter  and  spring. 
GRAPE!CE  CREAM — White  California  grapes,  Mus- 
cats, Tokays,  are  suitable  to  mix  in  ice  cream 
whole,  uncooked,  after  the  frezing  ;s  nearly  com- 
pleted. GRAPE  WATER  ICE — Any  kind  of  grapes 
pressed  and  the  juice  strained,  sweetened,  frozen. 
GRAPE  JELLY — Stewed  grapes,  the  juice  strained  off 
and  boiled  down  thick  with  sugar.  GRAPE  TABLE 
JEELY  —  White  grape  juice  strained,  sweetened, 
wine  added,  and  ij£  oz.  gelatine  in  each  quart, 
boiled;  cooled  in  moulds  with  layers  of  raw  grapes. 
GRAPE  PIES,  tarts,  jams,  marmalade,  preserves, 
etc.,  same  as  other  fruit.  PICKLED  GRAPES— Ripe 
grapes  pickled  in  vinegar,  though  their  merits  are 
well  known  in  Southern  Russia,  have  never  re- 
ceived due  recognition  in  Kngland.  But  these  are 
delicacies  rather  than  food.  GRAPES  FOR  DESSERT 
— At  lunches,  buffets,  and  five-o'clocks  in  France, 
strawberries,  and  indeed  most  berries,  are  eaten 
with  champagne.  Muscatel  grapes  powdered  with 
crushed  ices  and  anointed  with  sparkling  wine  are  a 
favorite  dessert-dish.  Grapes  are  invariably  eaten 
with  wine  in  France,  the  bunch  being  dipped  into 
the  wine.  Red  grapes  are  eaten  with  red  wine,  and 
white  grapes  with  white  wine. 

GRAPES  TO  KEEP— Packing  in  dry  sawdust, 
or  hanging  by  single  bunches  on  lines  in  a  cool  dry 
basement-room  are  the  most  effective  ways.  GRAPE 
WINE— Home-made  grape  wine  is  made  in  locali- 
ties where  grapes  abound  by  the  same  method  as 
cider;  it  ferments  itself,  and  when  that  is  nearly 
over  it  is  drawn  off  into  a  sulpher-smoked  barrel,  a 
gallon  or  two  of  native  spirit  added,  such  as  apple 
or  peach  brandy  or  corn  whiskey,  and  the  barrel  is 
tightly  closed  and  stored  away. 

GRAPE  FRUIT — Name  of  a  large  sort  of  orange, 
acid  but  with  a  grape-like  flavor,  common  in  Flori- 
da and  the  West  Indies  and  plentiful  in  Southern 
markets;  the  shaddock. 

GRAVY  SOUP— English  name  for  rich  beef  soup. 

GRAVY  BEEF— Rough  cuts  only  fit  for  stewing. 

GRAYLIXG— A  fresh  water  fish  found  in  the 
great  lakes  and  rivers,  also  as  mentioned  by  Izaak 
Walton,  in  English  rivers,  silver  scaled,  weight 
from  i  to  5  pounds. 

GREEK  COOKERY  — LiQUEurts-It  is  usual  in 
Greece  to  drink  liqueurs  before  dinner.  The  Greeks 


GRE 

drink  liqueurs  and  not  spirits  straight.  Raki  is  the 
liqueur  preferred,  and  that  made  in  Cluos  is  consid- 
ered the  best.  Absinthe,  chartreuse,  maraschino  and 
the  other  liqueurs  almost  universally  employed  are 
equally  acceptable  and  proper  at  a  Greek  dinner. 
SOUP — All  Greek  Dinners  begin  wtih  soup  and  not 
with  hors  d'tzu-vres,  which  come  afterwards. — 
MUTTON  SOUP  A  LA  GREQUE — A  boned  shoulder  of 
mutton  cooked  in  mutton  broth,  taken  up  and  cut  in 
dice;  carrots,  turnips  and  onions  also  cut  in  squares 
and  cooked  in  broth,  and  green  peas  added  to  them; 
puree  of  split-peas  made  separately;  then  all  mixed 
together,  mutton,  vegetables  and  puree  of  peas  to 
make  the  soup.  VERMICELLI  SOUP  A  LA  GREQUE- 
A  cream-colored  soup  with  vermicelli;  made  of  con- 
comme  slightly  thickened  with  flour  and  butter  roux; 
after  boiling  poured  to  2  yolks  to  each  quart,  and  % 
cup  cream;  hot  enough  to  thicken,  but  not  boil;  ver- 
micelli cooked  separately  and  added  to  the  soup. 
POTAGE  MARATHON— Broth  with  rice  and  fresh  to- 
matoes, i.  e.,  rice  and  tomato  soup  made  with  mut- 
ton stock;  parsley  to  finish.  POTAGE  SALAMIS— 
Yellow,  smooth,  egg-and-acid  soup  made  of  con- 
somme' with  2  yolks  and  juice  of  I  lemon  to  each  qt. ; 
the  juice  beaten  into  the  yolks,  and  boiling  con- 
somme poured  to  them;  made  hot  enough  to  thicken 
like  cream,  but  must  not  boil;  cayenne  and  parsley. 
THE  SOUP-MEAT  WITH  GREENS— At  all  Greek  din- 
ners the  mutton,  beef,  or  poultry,  out  of  which  the 
soup  has  been  prepared,  is  always  served  after  the 
soup.  This  is  a  national  habit  and  not  a  matter  of 
economy;  this  meat  is  usually  eaten  with  greens, 
dandelion  leaves  or  other  mild  herbs.  GREEK  HORS 
D'CEuvRES— It  is  with  the  boiled  meat  that  the  hors 
d'&u-vres  are  served  in  Greece,  never  before.  OL- 
IVES—Ripe  black  olives  in  oil,  green  olives  in  great 
variety,  and  pickled  peppers.  CAVIARO-SALATA — 
Made  of  %  caviare,  %  almonds  rolled  to  powder,  % 
bread-crumbs;  olive  oil  to  moisten,  lemon  juice, 
cayenne;  spread  on  small,  thick  slices  of  bread. 
LAKERDA — Smoked  and  salted  fish;  considered  a 
great  delicacy.  ARZOTARACHO — The  roe  of  the  gray 
mullet  pressed  and  dried.  TSIRAS — A  salad  of  an- 
chovies, olives  and  parsley.  It  is  usual  in  Greece  to 
leave  the  Iiors  d'oeuvres  on  the  table  during  the 
whole  meal  until  dessert  is  served.  GREEK  FISH — 
Amongst  the  abundance  of  the  Mediterannean  fish 
the  red  mullet  is  perhaps  the  favorite.  It  is  cooked 
in  oil  with  garlic,  parsley  and  cayenne,  or  baked  in 
tomato  sauce  with  lemon  juice.  Gray  mullet,  brill 
and  sea-bream  are  also  much  eaten.  Another 
favorite  way  of  cooking  fish  is  to  fry  them  in 
oil,  adding  butter  and  vinegar,  rosemary,  garlic, 
and  capers  to  the  oil  they  are  fried  in,  allow- 
ing them  to  get  cold  in  the  dressing;  they  are 
eaten  either  cold  or  hot  GREEK  VEGETABLES — 
Stuffed  artichokes,  stuffed  tomatoes,  stuffed  cucum- 
bers, egg  plant  and  vegetable  marrows.  FILLET  OF 
BEEF  A  L'ATHENIENNE — In  the  Athens  style  it  is 
larded,  roasted  or  baked,  surrounded  with  fried 
egg-plant  in  thick  slices,  a  brown  sauce  with  Ma- 


334 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


GRE 

deira  poured  over  the  fillet.  BEEFSTEAK  A  LA 
GREQUE— Beefsteaks  lightly  fried  with  onions,  a. 
gill  of  Marsala  wine,  %  pt.  espagnole,  same  of 
stewed  tomatoes  added,  simmered  an  hour;  served 
with  fried  egg  plant.  GREEK  CHICKEN — Cut  up 
and  cooked  in  tomato  sauce  and  white  wine,  simi- 
lar to  beefsteak  a  la  Greque.  GREEK  ROAST  LAMB 
— The  favorite  roast  is  very  young  lamb.  AGNEAU 
KLEFTIKO — A  whole  lamb  roasted  before  an  open 
wood  fire,  adding  wild  thyme  and  lemon  juice  to 
the  basting;  served  with  salads  and  vegetables. 
This  dish  is  always  eaten  at  Easter  in  Greece. 
POMMES  KERTEDES  —  Potato  croquettes  flavored 
with  grated  cheese.  STL>FED  CUCUMBERS  A  LA 
GREQUE — Pieces  2  inches  long  parboiled,  center 
hollowed  out,  set  on  end,  filled  with  raw  mutton 
forcemeat,  simmered  in  the  oven;  served  with  to- 
mato sauce.  GREEK  PILAF — Rice  boiled  in  broth 
with  tomatoes  and  butter.  The  rice  should  be  nei- 
ther dry  nor  floating  in  liquid — a  happy  medium  be- 
tween the  two.  Pilaf  is  very  good  with  larks, 
pieces  of  chicken  or  any  kind  of  meat;  it  can  also  be 
eaten  alone.  "A  few  years  ago  some  Greek  students 
in  Paris,  longing  for  the  flesh-pots  of  Hellas,  got  a 
Greek  cook  to  come  over  to  cook  for  them.  He 
hired  a  small  shop  and  began  on  the  lowest  possible 
scale.  He  has  now  one  of  the  most  successful  res- 
taurants in  the  Latin  quarter  and  does  a  splendid 
trade,  of  which  anyone  may  convince  himself  by 
looking  into  the  Restaurant  Orientale  in  the  Rue 
des  Ecoles.  He  is  specially  noted  for  his  pilaf." 
GREEK  BUTTERED  RICE— A  cupful  of  rice,  raw,  is 
fried  in  butter;  a  pint  of  tomato  soup,  or  broth  and 
tomatoes,  is  poured  to  the  rice  and  all  boiled  about 
20  minutes.  It  should  not  be  very  liquid,  but  d^- 
enough  to  heap  up  in  a  dish.  Have  butter  stirred 
in  before  serving.  It  is  but  a  slight  variation  of 
pilaf ;  is  served  with  broiled  chichen  livers,  roasted 
larks,  or  vegetables  only,  such  as  cauliflower 
branches  augraliii.  GREEK  RICE  PUDDING— Cin- 
namon-flavored boiled  rice  custard,  served  with 
ground  cinnamon  separately.  Made  of  4  oz.  rice,  2 
qts.  milk,  S  yolks,  2  oz.  corn  starch,  8  oz.  sugar,  i 
oz.  cinnamon.  Rice  boiled  in  milk  with  cinnamon, 
custard  made  separately,  stirred  together;  served 
cold.  GREEK  PUDDING  —  Thick  slices  of  bread 
soaked  in  cold  milk,  then  strained  and  fried  in  oil 
or  clear  butter  till  browned  outside  only.  Saturated 
with  honey-and-sugar  syrup,  flavored  with  cinna- 
mon; served  warm.  Rice  and  milk  with  sugar  and 
cinnamon  are  made  up  in  various  forms  of  Greek 
sweet  dishes.  GREEK  BALAKLAVA  CAKE — Layers 
of  pastry  spread  with  chopped  almonds  in  honey. 
CONRABIES — Thin  wafers  made  of  flour,  sugar,  and 
butter;  baked  until  crisp.  (S-  e  Fairy  Gingerbread, 
the  ginger  omit:ed  or  substituted?)  RHCELO  SAC- 
CHAREE — See  Crt  stallized Roue  Leaves.  SERBATI- 
GLUKO — Preserves  scented  with  flowers.  GREEK 
DESSERT — There  are  usua.ly  piles  of  inanv-colored 
grapes,  oranges,  sweet  lemons,  pomegranates,  etc. 
The  pomegranates  are  usually  cut  in  halves,  and 


GRI 

eaten  with  powdered  sugar  and  orange-flower  water. 
GREEK  "WINES — The  white  wines  of  Patros,  Samos 
and  Kephalonia,  and  the  red  wines  called  reziiiato 
because  of  the  rosin  which  is  added  to  the  wines  to 
preserve  them.  "With  dessert  the  Cyprus  wine 
known  as  Commanderia  (thick  and  strong  like  thick 
s\rup)  is  drunk.  Sweet  port  would  make  a  very 
good  substitute  for  Commanderia;  Bordeaux,  red  or 
white,  makes  a  good  substitute  for  Patros  wine,  and 
various  burgundies  for  rezinato. 

GREENGAGE — An  excellent  plum  which  re- 
mains green  when  ripe.  Cooked  and  used  in  all  the 
ways  suitable  for  apricots;  acceptable  for  contrast 
of  colors  in  compotes,  jams,  jellies  and  ices. 

GREEN  ANCHOVY  BUTTER- For  fish,  chop- 
ped parslev  leaves,  the  juice  squeezed  through  a 
napkin  by  twisting,  mixed  with  anchovies  and  but- 
ter, pounded  and  put  through  a  seive.  Must  be 
lukewarm  to  mix,  then  made  cold. 

GREEN  SAUCE — Bignon's  sauce  rert.  Used  as 
mint  sauce  with  roast  lamb  and  cold  me  '  t^ ;  made  of 
equal  quantities  of  capers,  parsley,  chives,  gher- 
kins, and  tarragon.  Mince  the  whole  very  fine,  and 
mix  it  all  together.  Then  season  with  pepper  and 
salt  and  cavenne,  and  put  it  into  a  jar  with  tarragon 
vinegar.  When  it  is  wanted  to  serve,  take,  as  much 
as  is  required;  put  it  into  a  bowl  with  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  chervil,  a  little  French  mustard  and  the 
necessary  amount  of  salad-oil. 

GREEN  GOOSE— Spring  goose.     (See  Goo.-e.) 

GREXADIXS— Thin  slices  of  veal  and  some 
other  meats  larded.  GRENADINS  DE  FILET  DEBosup 
A  LA  FINANCIERS — Thin  slices  of  tenderloin,  lar- 
ded, cooked  in  murepoix  or  seasoned  stock,  served 
in  the  reduced  sauce  with  Financier^  garnish. 
GRENADINS  DE  VEAU  AUX  PETITES  RACINES — Thin 
oval  slices  of  veal  larded  with  strips  of  fat  pork, 
braised  in  a  pan  with  aromatics,  glazed  in  their  own 
sauce,  served  with  potatoes,  carrots  and  turnips  half 
fried,  then  stewed  in  brown  sauce.  GRENADINS  r>E 
VEAU,  SAUCE  TOMATE — Served  with  tomato  sauce. 

GRILL — Gridiron;  broiler;  a  grill;  a  broil. 

GRILL-ROOM— English  public  kitchen  where 
meats  are  broiled  to  order;  sometimes  on  a  silver 
gridiron  and  in  sight  of  the  customer. 

GRIMOD  DE  LA  REYNIERE— A  name  at- 
tached to  several  modern  French  dishes,  has 
reference  to  a  notable  patron  of  culinary  art,  con- 
temporary with  De  Cussy,  CarSme,  and  Briilat- 
Savarin:  "  Grimond  de  la  Reyniere  ca::ie  of  a 
banking  family,  and  no  one  had  a  bad  word  to  say 
against  either  his  palate  or  his  camel.  An  acci- 
dent in  early  childhood  deprived  him  of  both  hands, 
which  he  replaced  by  niar.y  ingenious  contrivan- 
ces; and  he  even  became  a  dandy  in  his  youth, 
frequented  the  leaders  of  the  Francais,  and  visited 
Voltaire.  He  was  muscularly  strong,  and  had  a 
strong  constitution;  eventually  developed,  let  us 
say,  a  hump  on  his  camel,  /".  e.  became  obese  and 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


335 


GRI 

lived  to  be  eighty,  lie  was  a  charming  talker  in 
his  best  years,  but  latterly,  wrote  De  Cussy,  he 
got  to  be  commonplace  and  garrulous  about  every- 
thing. The  same  Dr.  Roques,  exclaming  quantum 
mutattis,  said  in  a  sketch  of  Grimod's  old  age  that 
'he  rang  for  his  servants  at  nine  in  the  morning, 
shouting  and  scolding  until  he  got  his  vermicelli 
soup.  Soon  after  he  becaire  tranquil,  and  began  to 
talk  gaily;  finalh-  becoming  silent,  and  going  to 
sleep  again  for  some  hours.  At  his  waking  the  com- 
plaints began  over  again ;  he  would  fly  into  rages, 
groan,  weep,  and  wish  he  was  dead.  But,  when 
dinner-time  came,  he  ate  of  every  dish,  all  the  time 
declaring  that  he  would  have  nothing,  for  his  end 
was  nigh.  At  dessert  his  face  began  to  show  some 
animation,  his  eyebrows  lifted,  and  some  light 
showed  from  the  eyes,  deep  sunk  in  their  sockets. 
'  How  is  De  Cussy  ?  \\  ill  he  live  long  ?'  he  would 
ask;  'they  say  he  has  a  fatal  ailment.  They  haven't 
put  him  on  diet  yet,  have  they?  The  rains  were 
heavy;  we'll  have  lots  of  mushrooms  in  the  au- 
tumn. The  vines  are  splendid;  you  must  come  for 
the  vintage;'  and  so  on,  always  about  gluttony. 
Then  he  would  grow  gradually  silent  in  his  great 
armchair,  and  the  eyes  would  close.  At  ten  they 
came  for  him — he  could  no  longer  walk — and  put 
him  to  bed.'  And  this  was  the  youngster  who,  at 
the  age  of  twenty,  was  canght  by  his  own  father 
sitting  down,  lone  as  the  ace  of  spades,  to  seven 
roast  turkeys,  merely  for  their  "oysters,"  their  sol- 
I'y-laisse,  as  the  French  say."  (Note. — The  "oys- 
ters" are  the  tid-bits  of  meat  on  e^ch  side  of  the 
small  of  the  back.  But  another  one  who  tells  the 
anecdote  says  the  seven  turkeys  were  ordered  mere- 
ly for  their  "  Pope's  nose.")  TURKEY  A  LA  REY- 
NIERE — A  plump,  fat  and  tender  turkey-hen  is 
trussed  nicely  and  roasted  about  an  hour  and  a  quar- 
ter; untrussed,  placed  on  a  dish,  surrounded  with 
sausages  and  chestnuts  and  cress  at  each  end;  served 
with  a  slightly  thickened  gravy  into  which  the  liver 
of  the  turkey  previously  cooked  and  sliced  fine,  is 
put  at  the  last  moment.  ROAST  WOODCOCK  A  LA 
GRIMOD— The  birds  skewered  with  their  bills,  the 
trail  chopped  on  toast,  birds  roasted  before  the  fire 
with  the  prepared  toast  beneath  to  receive  the  drip- 
pings. Served  on  the  toast  with  gravy  and  quartered 
lemons.  SALAD  A  LA  GRIMOD — Several  vegetables 
parboiled  and  chopped,  arranged  on  toasted  bread 
in  separate  groups  with  chopped  yolks  and  whites, 
oil,  vinegar,  etc. 

GRISSIXI  BREAD— "A  Boston  paper  says  that 
the  technical  name  fpr  those  long  sticks  of  bread, 
such  as  are  served  at  the  Parker  House,  which  one 
finds  it  so  entertaining  to  nibble  upon  between 
courses,  is  Grissini,  the  patronymic  of  the  Turin 
baker  who  invented  them."  A  London  paper  says: 
"Italian  Grissini  has  deservedly  come  into  high  favor 
for  soups,  etc.,  and  the  crisp  finger-like  article  pro- 
duced by  Messrs.  Grinnell  has  already  created  a 
large  demand,  so  much  so  thut  it  is  now  said  to  be 
'the  rage.'  "  —  "You  may  in  many  cases  learn  from 


GRO 

your  hotel  bills  the  chief  products  of  places  in  the 
way  of  food;  for,  of  course,  I  had  sausages  at  Bo- 
logna, 'grissini'  at  Turin,  grapes  at  Tyrol,  and  so  on; 
while  as  for  wine  you  may  instruct  yourself  r.s  to  the 
native  soil  of  many  dozen  varieties."  Mr.  T.  J. 
Harrison,  a  baker  in  business  at  one  period,  made  a 
specialty  of  grissini  in  Detroit.  He  took  in  a  desti- 
tute Italian  baker  who  in  turn  showed  his  employer 
what  he  could  do,  and  thus  the  grissini  trade  was 
started  to  their  mutual  profit,  the  Italian  residents 
being  pretty  constant  buyers  from  the  first.  The 
Italian  baker  would  call  it  Garibaldi  Grissini  in  the 
advertisements  when  he  had  his  way;  but  it  seemed 
there  were  two  political  parties  among  the  Italians, 
and  one-half  of  them  would  not  buy  Garibaldi  bread; 
consequently  the  bread  took  on  a  strictly  neutral 
character  after  that  was  discovered,  and  became 
Italian  grissini,  neither  more  nor  less.  It  is  made  of 
the  ordinary  bread-dough  with  some  butter  worked 
into  it;  then  the  dough  is  kneaded  under  a  lever- 
break  as  if  for  crackers.  Made  into  rolls  about  two 
fingers  thick,  allowed  to  rise,  brushed  over  with 
water,  divided  and  taken  up  one  by  one  by  the  ends 
and  pulled  out  to  the  thinness  of  a  little  finger  and 
about  12  inches  long;  then  rolled,  wet  as  they  are,  in 
corn  meal,  placed  on  a  wet  peel  and  slid  off  when 
the  peel  is  full  on  to  the  oven  bottom.  A  revolving 
oven  is  the  best  for  them  as  they  need  but  a  few 
minutes  to  bake.  Sold  at  6oc.  per  Ib.  Being  almost 
hollow,  nearly  all  crust,  it  takes  a  stack  of  them  to 
weigh  a  pound. 

GRISKIX  OF  PORK— The  loin;  the  roasting 
piece  between  the  last  rib  and  the  ham -joint;  same 
as  the  porter-house  cut  of  beef. 


GROSSE  PIECE  SUR   SOCI-E. 

Round  of  spiced  beef  on  carved  stand  of  mutton  fat. 

GROG — <-A  drink  composed  of  rum  and  something 
else  was  called  '  grog.'  It  originally  meant  rum  di- 
luted with  water,  but  was  more  often  with  a  cordial 
or  something  of  that  nature.  The  name  of  'grog' 


336 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


GRO 

was  derived  in  a  singular  way.  It  is  said  that  once 
Admiral  Vernon,  in  the  British  navy,  and  who  was 
noted  for  his  generous  nature,  was  wont  to  deal  out 
an  allowance  of  this  drink  to  his  sailors.  He  wore 
what  was  called  a  'grogan'  cloak  in  severe  weather, 
and  after  a  while  the  men  jestingly  designated  him 
as  'old  grog,'  hence  the  name  of  the  mixture." 
GRONDIN  (Fr.)— Gurnet  or  gurnard;  a  fish: 

GROSSES  PIECES  (Fr.)— Large  ornamented 
pieces;  built  up  dishes;  pyramids;  designs  in  cooked 
meats;  ornamental  sugar  work  on  stands. 

GROSEILLES  (Fr.)— Garden  currants;  cassis— 
black  currants  (garden).  Zante  currants  are  raisins 
de  corinthe.  GROSEILLES  VERTES — Gooseberries. 

GROUND  RICE— Used  like  farina,  starch,  tapi- 
oca and  sago  in  all  sorts  of  puddings  and  custards. 

GROUND-NUT— The  peanut. 

GROUPER— A  fish  of  the  Florida  and  Gulf  coast. 
There  are  three  varieties,  known  as  red,  black  and 
white  grouper;  the  shape  is  like  a  carp,  the  scales 
and  color  more  like  black  bass ;  size  from  5  to  1 5  Ibs. ; 
flesh  second  quality,  being  rather  hard  and  coarse 
in  comparison  with  the  red-snapper,  which  is 
abundant  in  the  same  localities.  Is  cooked  in  the 
same  wavs  as  snapper,  and  baked  in  tomato  sauce, 
and  the  southern  courtbouillon. 

GROUSE  —  Prairie  chickens;  spruce  grouse, 
ruffed  grouse,  pin-tail  grouse,  moor-fowl,  and  other 
kinds;  larger  than  a  partridge.  GROL'SE  A  LA  ROB 
ROY — Alexis  Soyer,  the  famous  Reform  Club  chef, 
bestowed  much  attention  on  the  cooking  of  grouse. 
One  of  his  modes  was  to  wrap  the  bird  to  be  roasted 
in  slices  of  fat  bacon  and  sprigs  of  heather  well 
steeped  in  whisky.  This  is  "grouse  a  la  Rob  Roy." 
GROUSE  A  LA  RUSSE — After  roasting  the  birds,  cut 
them  up  into  joints,  arrange  in  a  pyramid  on  a  dish, 
and  cover  over  with  meat  glaze;  hand  rich  gravy  in 
a  sauce-boat.  GROUSE  A  L'ECOSSAISE  —  Scotch 
style;  the  grouse  roasted,  then  cut  up;  sauce  made 
in  the  pan  with  the  scraps,  backs  of  grouse,  etc., 
orange  juice  added;  grouse  piled  up  on  toasted 
bread,  sauce  over  all,  orange  slices  around.  GROUSE 
A  LA  FINANCIERS  — Grouse  stuffed  with  a  force- 
meat of  the  livers  pounded  with  onion,  mushrooms, 
Wead-crumbs,  butter,  salt,  pepper;  roasted;  served 
with  brown  sauce  and  mushrooms.  MARINADED 
GROUSE— The  grouse  steeped  in  a  pickle  of  vinegar, 
chopped  onion,  bay  leaves,  juniper  berries,  pepper 
corns,  for  3  days.  Stuffed  with  turkey  stuffing, 
breasts  larded,  roasted  with  constant  butter  basting. 
Served  with  sliced  lemons.  GROUSE  PUDDING— 
Birds  cut  up,  a  deep  pudding  bowl  lined  with  short- 
paste,  thin  beefsteak  at  bottom,  then  chopped  mush- 
rooms, then  pieces  of  grouse,  peppered,  salted  and 
floured,  so  on  till  bowl  is  full;  cupful  of  gravy 
added,  paste  cover,  edges  wetted  and  secured,  tied 
down  in  cloth,  boiled  3  or  4  hours.  Served  in  bowl 
with  folded  napkin  arranged  around  it,  or  served 
from  sideboard.  SOUFFLE  OK  GROUSE— Cold  roast 
grouse  meat  pounded  to  a  paste  with  i  oz.  butter,  2 


GUI 

oz.  cooked  rice,  aromatic  salt,  %  pt.  meat  glaze; 
rubbed  through  a  seive,  4  yolks  added,  lastly  4 
whites  whipped  firm;  baked  in  a  mould.  It  rises 
light  in  the  oven.  Served  in  the  mould  soon  as  done, 
with  gravy  aside.  SALMI  OF  MOOR  FOWL — Cooked 
birds  cut  up  into  a  stewpan  with  olive  oil,  lemon 
rind  and  juice,  piece  of  orange  peel,  shallot,  pepper, 
salt,  cayenne,  tossed  up  till  hot  through,  served  hot. 
GROUSE  SOUP — Grouse  boiled  in  meat  stock,  flesh 
picked  off  and  pounded  through  seive;  soup  thick- 
ened with  butter  and  flour,  strained,  2  yolks  added 
and  the  puree  of  grouse.  Duchess  crusts.  GROUSE 
A  LA  AILSA — Grouse  cut  up,  the  joints  dipped  in 
thick  essence  of  game  sauce,  then  in  bread-crumbs, 
then  in  egg  and  crumbs;  browned  in  the  oven  in 
butter.  SALMIS  DE  GROUSE  AUXTRUFFES- -Roasted, 
cut  up,  heated  in  essence  o£  game  sauce  with  truff- 
les, garnished  with  croutons.  GROUSE  A  LA  COMMO- 
DORE— The  joints  coated  with  a  forcemeat  of  grouse 
and  dressed  in  a  pyramid  with  rich  game  sauce. 
FILETS  DE  GROUSE  A  LA  CHANCELIERE  —  Breasts 
of  grouse  dressed  in  a  crown,  with  small  quenelles 
of  veal  in  the  center,  and  game  sauce.  SALADE  AUX 
GROUSES— The  joints  masked  with  a  salmis  sauce 
and  aspic  (chaudfroid  sauce).  Dressed  on  a  salad 
with  mayonnaise  sauce,  garnish  w  ith  eggs,  beets, 
etc.  BROILED  GROUSE  ox  TOAST — Split  down  the 
back,  flattened  with  the  cleaver,  trimmed  a  little, 
salted  and  peppered,  broiled  rare ;  served  on  dry  toast 
with  maitre  d'hotel  butter,  cress  and  lemons. 
GROUSE  AU  FUMET — Roasted  grouse  cut  up  from 
the  bones;  the  bones  broken  and  stewed  in  espa- 
gnole,  with  aromatics  and  sherry  to  make  the  sauce 
which  is  pressed  through  a  napkin  by  twisting. 
Served  on  slices  of  fried  bread  with  sauce  over. 
GROUSE  AU  CHASSEUR  —  Grouse  roasted,  cut  up, 
served  with  chasseur  sauce  made  of  i  pt.  espagnole, 
J^  pt.  tomato  sauce,  shallots  half  fried  in  butter, 
few  mushrooms,  parsley,  lemon  juice.  GROUSE 
WITH  PRUNE  SAUCE — Roasted  grouse  served  with 
sauce  made  by  stewing  prunes  in  red  wine  and  add- 
ing them  to  espagnole.  {See  game,  prairie  hens.) 

GRUYE.RE— One  of  the  French  cheeses  often 
named  in  cooking  directions;  next  best  to  Parmesan 
for  cooking  purposes,  and  eaten  at  table.  Not 
choice,  only  foreign. 

GUANA — In  Central  America  and  the  West  In- 
dies the  great  tree-lizards  called  guanas  form  a 
really  important  part  of  the  food  of  the  poorer  people. 
They  prepare  it  by  cleaning  and  scraping  it,  then 
roasting  it  in  a  hole  in  the  ground.  "  A  more  civil- 
ized fashion  is  a  fricassee,  with  tomatoes  and  pep- 
pers a  la  Creole.  The  similarity  of  the  white  and 
tender  flesh  to  chicken  is  noted  by  everybody,  and 
there  are  few  persons  who  do  not  find  it  highly 
toothsome.  'We  caught  more  in  the  same  way,' 
says  an  antiquated  author,  after  an  entertaining  de- 
scription of  a  guana-hunt,  'and  kept  one  alive  seven 
or  eight  days;  but  it  grieved  me  to  the  heart  to  find 
that  he  thereby  lost  much  delicious  fat.'  The  old 
writer  was  a  monk,  and  spoke  with  feeling." 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


337 


GUA 

GUAVA— A  fruit  of  the  West  Indies  and  Florida; 
the  tree  is  a  species  of  myrtle,  grows  to  a  height  of 
20  feet.  The  fruit  (about  the  size  and  shape  of  a  fig) 
has  an  agreeable  flavor,  and  is  made  into  preserves 
and  jelly.  GUAVA  JELLY— Possesses  a  peculiar  fine 
flavor  and  very  little  acidity;  it  is  more  of  a  sweet- 
meat than  a  relish,  yet  is  served  both  with  meats 
and  cakes. 

GUILLP2MOTS— The  Normandy  peasants  make 
an  excellent  salmi  from  guillemots— the  despised 
sea-crows  of  the  Scotch— which  is  equal  to  wood- 
cock, and  superior  to  hare  in  flavor.  Served  with 
red  wine,  guillemot  is  a  dish  for  a  gourmet;  but  the 
people  find  the  birds  very  good  without  such  addi- 
tion. 

GUINEA  FOWL— Is  cooked  as  partridge,  for 
which  it  occasionally  serves  as  a  substitute;  is  often 
sent  to  market  in  dressed  lots  mixed  with  chickens, 
but  being  darker  fleshed  should  not  be  cooked  with 
them;  but  is  most  excellent  by  its  own  name.  It  is 
the  best  substitute  for  game  when  game  is  out  of 
season.  It  has  two  names  in  French.  PINTADE 
RoTi-Roast  Guinea  fowl;  the  breast  and  legs  larded, 
roasted  under  cover  of  buttered  paper;  served  with 
cress  in  the  dish,  and  brown  gravy  separately. 
Roast  Guinea  fowls  are  sometimes  served  with  let- 
tuce salad  and  apple  fritters.  PINTADE  A  LA  BEAR- 
NAISE— Guinea  fowl  roasted  and  served  with  Bear- 
naise  sauce.  GELINOTTE  PIQUEE— Larded  Guinea 
hen.  GELINOTTE  BARDEE — Guinea  hen  wrapped  in 
slices  of  fat  pork,  and  baked. 

GUINEA  PIG— The  cavy;  a  tame  animal  about 
the  size  of  the  opossum,  kept  as  a  pet  by  some  peo- 
ple; good  for  food,  and  something  like  the  opossum 
in  taste.  "F.  Z.  S.  writes:  I  do  not  wish  it  to  be 
supposed  that  I  recommend  the  cavy  as  a  cheap  food, 
but  rather  for  its  delicious  flavor  and  recherche  qual- 
ity. It  may,  no  doubt,  be  sometimes  grown  at  small 
expense,  but  I  look  upon  it  as  being  so  valuable  for 
the  table  as  to  make  it  worthy  both  of  trouble  and 
expense  in  its  cultivation.  Think  of  its  value  in  the 
game  course  when  game  is  out  of  season ;  of  the  value 
of  its  tender  flesh  and  gelatinous  skin  in  the  feeding 
of  invalids  and  convalescents,  and  of  the  vast  num- 
ber of  ways  in  which  a  clever  cook  could  utilize  it. 
Probably  there  are  few  recipes  for  made  dishes, 
either  of  rabbit  or  game,  that  would  not  be  appli- 
cable to  cavy.  I  consider  the  smooth -haired  white 
cavy  the  best  adapted  for  the  table,  on  account  of  the 
whiteness  of  its  skin." 

GULL — There  are  many  of  the  commoner  kinds 
of  sea-gulls  that  taste  delicious  in  a  pie  when  prop- 
erly cooked.  It  is  only  prejudice  that  keeps  people 
from  eating  them. 

GUMBO  FILE  (Creole-Fr.)— Dried  gumbo. 

GUMBO  SOUP  — A  specialty  of  the  southern 
states;  Creole  dish ;  soup  thickened  and  flavored  with 
okra  or  gumbo,  either  in  its  green  state  or  dried  and 
powdered.  CHICKEN  GUMBO  A  LA  CREOLE — Pieces 
of  chicken  fried  in  butter  with  chopped  onion  and 


GUM 

little  ham;  when  fried  light  brown,  some  flour  stirred 
in,  and  broth  by  degrees;  bunch  of  parsley,  salt, 
white  pepper,  sweet  chili  pepper;  to  each  quart  a 
heaping  tablespoonful  of  gumbo  powder  dredged  in 
careful  ly  to  avoid  lumps ;  and  taken  from  fire  at  once. 
Served  with  boiled  rice  separately.  OYSTER  GUMBO- 
Started  by  frying  onion  and  salt  pork  in  butter;  flour 
added,  little  white  wine,  broth,  water,  peppers,  pars- 
ley, thyme,  oysters,  and  liquor;  gumbo  powder  to 
thicken;  served  with  rice.  CRAB  GuMBO-Same  gen- 
eral method  with  crabs  cut  in  pieces;  soft-shell  crabs 
preferred;  served  with  rice.  SHRIMP  GuMBO-Large 
shrimps  husked  from  their  coats,  fried  with  onions 
and  salt  pork  in  butter;  flour,  broth,  white  wine, 
water,  parsley,  green  pepper,  salt;  gumbo  powder  to 
thicken;  not  boiled  after  gumbo  is  in;  served  with 
boiled  rice. 

GUM — Four  or  five  kinds  of  gum  are  used  In  con- 
fectionery and  syrups.  GUM  SYRUP — The  French- 
man who  asks  for  absinthe  in  your  establishment 
probably  asks  for  gemme.  This  means  that  he 
wants  about  half  his  lotion  to  consist  of  strop  de 
gomme.  Now  sirop  de  gomme,  or  gum-arabic 
syrup,  is  not  generally  procurable  and  I  want  to  tell 
you  how  to  make  it  for  yourself.  FRENCH  WEIGHTS 
AND  MEASURES — Wash  500  grammes  (i  Ib.  i  3-5  oz.) 
of  white  gum-arabic.  Dissolve  it  in  a  covered  jar 
in  a  pint  of  cold  water,  stirring  it  frequently;  then 
strain  it  through  a  linen  strainer.  Dissolve  2  kilos 
of  sugar  (4  Ib.  6%  oz)  in  2  litres  of  lukewarm  water 
(31A  pints);  place  the  bowl  containing  the  liquefied 
sugar  on  the  fire,  skim  carefully,  and  let  it  cook  for 
about  three  minutes;  then  add  the  liquid  gum,  and 
let  the  mixture  boil  until  about  the  consistency  of 
strong  liquid  gum.  Cool  and  bottle.  GUM  ARABIC 
— Since  the  war  in  the  Soudan  gum  arable  has  been 
very  scarce;  and  the  Germans  in  America  are  turn- 
ing their  attention  to  provide  a  substitute.  The 
latest  is  the  following:  Twenty  parts  of  powdered 
sugar  are  boiled  with  seven  parts  of  fresh  milk,  and 
this  is  then  mixed  with  fifty  parts  of  a  36  per  cent, 
solution  of  silicate  of  sodium,  the  mixture  being 
then  cooled  at  122  Fahr.,  and  poured  into  tin  boxes, 
where  granular  masses  will  gradully  separate  out, 
which  look  very  much  like  pieces  of  gum  arable. 
This  artificial  gum  copiously  and  instantly  reduces 
Fehling's  solution,  so  that  if  mixed  with  powdered 
gum  arable  as  an  adulterant  its  presence  could  be 
easily  detected.  GUM  DROPS — A  confection  made 
of  gum  and  sugar;  also  of  glucose,  dextrine  and 
sugar.  COMMON  GUM  DROPS — Made  of  50  Ibs.  su- 
gar, 25  Ibs.  glucose,  9  Ibs.  starch,  i  oz.  each  cream 
tartar  and  tartaric  acid.  Starch  mixed  with  water 
till  like  cream;  sugar  made  into  syrup  of  33  degrees, 
and  when  boiling,  starch  stirred  into  it;  glucose 
then  added;  boiled  3^  hours;  acid  added,  and  flavor. 
Run  into  starch  moulds,  dried  in  a  hot  closet  2  days, 
tossed  in  granulated  sugar.  ( See  Fig  Paste.)  GUM 
BENZOIN— Gum  from  an  East  Indian  tree;  used,  dis- 
solved in  alcohol,  to  varnish  chocolate  candies  of  all 
sorts  to  make  them  glossy.  GUM  TRAGACANTH— 


338 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


GUM 

A  gum  which  dissolves  slowly  in  water  and  becomes 
like  flour  paste;  is  used  mixed  with  sugar  to  make 
white  ornaments  for  bride's  cakes.  GUM  DRAGON- 
Another  name  for  tragacanth.  GUM  PASTE— For 
cake -ornaments;  made  by  putting  402.  white  gum 
tragacanth  in  a  bowl  with  i  pt.  warm  water  to  soak 
for  24  hours,  or  until  it  is  all  dissolved;  then  forced 
through  a  towel  by  twisting.  The  gum  is  then 
rubbed  with  the  hand  on  a  marble  slab  for  10  min- 
utes; fine  powdered  sugar  added  by  degrees  while 
the  rubbing  with  the  hand  is  continued  until  3  Ibs. 
sugar  has  been  worked  in  and  the  paste  is  white  and 
tough;  to  be  kept  in  a  jar  till  needed  for  use.  If  for 
making  flowers,  about  2  Ibs.  fine  starch  and  %  Ib. 
sugar  are  worked  into  i  y>  Ib.  of  the  stock  mixture  in 
the  jar.  If  for  pressing  into  moulds  for  leaf  orna- 
ments, 2  Ibs.  sugar  and  i  Ib.  starch  are  worked  into 
2  Ibs.  of  the  jar  stock;  one  drop  of  blue  coloring  to 
be  mixed  in.  GUM-PASTE  FLOWERS  —  Are  made 
with  the  fingers  and  a  set  of  small  bone  tools  about 
the  size  of  A  piece  of  pencil  adapted  to  form  cups  and 
hollows  in  the  paste  and  to  roll  it  to  leaf-like  thin- 
ness in  the  palm  of  the  hand;  a  pair  of  scissors  is 
used  to  cut  the  edges,  and  a  toothpick  stuck  in  a 
board  to  stick  the  flowers  on  to  dry.  Stamens  are 
procured  from  the  artificial  millinery  flower  makers, 
and  a  little  painting  is  done  on  the  leaves.  Roses 
are  made  by  a  leaf  at  a  time  rolled  and  shaped  in 
starch  in  the  palm  of  the  hand  and  20  or  30  of  them 
fastened  on  a  core  or  bud  already  dry  on  its  stick. 
GUM-PASTE  LEAVES — These  and  various  patterns 
and  designs  are  made  by  piping  the  design  in  cake- 
icing  on  oiled  glass,  bordering  it  with  putty  and 
making  a  mould  from  it  by  pouring  on  melted  brim- 
stone; this  takes  in  the  icing  pattern,  which  can  be 
dissolved  out  in  water.  Into  this  the  gum  paste  is 
afterwards  pressed,  thus  getting  the  icing  pattern 
from  the  brimstone  mould  reproduced  in  gum  paste. 
A  piece  of  lace  bobinet  is  stuck  upon  the  back  of  the 
pattern  before  it  is  lifted. 

GUM  FOR  CHEWIXG-The  best  is  plain  spruce 
gum  as  it  exudes  from  the  trees  in  Maine  and  Can- 
ada. Additions  of  sugar  and  flavoring  are  made; 
and  adulterations  with  parrafine  are  practiced  by 
different  manufacturers,  but  there  is  no  other  stand- 
ard but  the  plain  gum  conveniently  wrapped  for 
handling. 

GURNET  OR  GURXARD— A  sea-fish  common 
in  France  and  England.  GRONDIN  FARCI  AU  FOUR- 
Gurnet  stuffed  and  baked.  FILETS  DE  GRONDIXS 
EX  MATELOTE— Sides  of  gurnet  breaded  and  fried; 
served  with  matelote  sauce. 

H. 

HACHIS  (Fr.)— Hash.  HACHIS  DE  VENAISON— 
Hashed  venison. 

HADDOCK  — Well-known  sea  fish,  nearly  re- 
sembling the  cod;  of  smaller  size,  however,  and 
marked  with  black  thumb  spots  on  the  shoulders, 
whence  the  legend  that  this  is  the  fish  which  the 


HAL 

apostle  took  up  and  found  the  penny  in  its  mouth  to 
pay  the  tribute  to  Casar  with;  the  mark  of  his  fin- 
gers remains.  HADDOCK  IN  OLD  ROME  —  Pliny 
says:  "The  haddock,  like  the  sturgeon,  was  sur- 
rounded with  the  ridiculous  honors  of  an  almost 
divine  pomp.  It  was  served  interwoven  with  gar- 
lands, and  trumpeters  accompanied  the  slaves  who, 
with  uncovered  heads  and  foreheads  crowned  with 
flowers,  brought  to  the  guests  this  dish,  the  merit 
of  which  was,  perhaps,  exaggerated  by  capricious 
fancies."  SCOTCH  RIZZER'D  HADDIE  —  A  fresh 
haddock  cooked  as  follows:  Rub  the  fish  well  in- 
side and  out  with  salt,  hang  it  up  by  the  head  in  the 
open  air  for  twenty-four  hours,  skin  it,  dust  it  with 
flour,  pepper  and  salt,  and  broil  over  a  clear  fire. 
FILLETS  OF  HADDOCK  —  Fresh  haddock  cut  into 
strips,  seasoned,  rolled  in  flour,  then  in  egg-and- 
cracker  dust,  fried,  served  with  sauce  and  cut 
lemons.  SMOKED  HADDOCK— See  Finnan  haddies. 
HADDOCK  SOUFFLE — Boiled  salt  haddock  (like  salt 
cod)  pounded  in  a  mortar,  rubbed  through  a  seive; 
to  %  Ib.  of  the  rish  pure'e  3  yolks  are  added,  then  the 
whites  whipped  to  froth;  the  mixture  is  then  baked 
in  cases  or  cups;  sent  to  table  soon  as  done,  while 
soft  and  light  SMOKED  HADDOCK  SANDWICH— 
Boiled  smoked  haddock  picked  from  the  bones  and 
run  through  a  sausage  machine,  mixed  with  y^  as 
much  hot  butter,  cayenne,  salt,  anchovy  essence 
added,  spread  on  sandwiches.  MERLUCHE  GRILLES 
— Broiled  haddock.  MERLUCHE  FARCIE — Haddock 
stuffed  and  baked,  served  with  brown  sauce.  MER- 
LUCHE SAUCE  AUX  CEuFS— Haddock  boiled,  with 
egg  sauce.  MERLUCHE  A  LA  HOLLANDAISE  — 
Boiled  haddock  with  Hollandaise  sauce. 

HAGGIS— See  Scottish  cookery. 

HAKE — Hake  is  an  English  "west-country" 
fish,  often  sold  under  the  name  of  white  salmon. 
It  is  a  cheap  fish  and  not  very  highly  esteemed; 
cooked  in  same  ways  as  halibut. 

HALIBUT  —  Flat  fish  of  the  turbot  family; 
reaches  a  very  large  size,  sometimes  weighing  as 
much  as  ico  Ibs.  It  is  commonly  cut  into  steaks. 
Halibut  is  sometimes  offered  for  turbot,  which  is  a 
dearer  fish,  but  it  may  be  distinguished  by  looking 
at  the  spots  on  the  back,  the  halibut  being  without 
spots.  BOILED  HALIBUT  —  A  thick  cut  boiled  in 
water  containing  salt  and  vinegar,  simmered  40 
minutes;  drained,  served  on  a  folded  napkin,  gar- 
nished with  parsley;  cream  sauce  in  a  bowl.  HALI- 
BUT A  LA  CORDON  BLEU  —  Halibut  steaks  like 
larded  grenadines  of  veal,  but  larded  in  colors  with 
strips  of  anchovy,  green  peppers,  lemon  rind,  and 
eel,  simmered  in  wine  stock,  glazed  with  the  re- 
duced liquor;  sauce  and  garnishings.  SCALLOPED 
HALIBUT  AU  PARMESAN  —  Thin  halibut  steaks 
simmered  in  butter  with  onion,  salt,  pepper  and 
nutmeg,  then  taken  up  and  cream  sauce  made  in 
the  same  saucepan,  with  yolks  and  grated  cheese 
added;  the  fish  placed  in  layers  in  a  baking  dish 
with  sauce  between  and  crumbs  and  grated  cheese 


THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


339 


HAM 

on  top,  and  butter;  baked  brown.  CKIMPED  HALI- 
BUT— Strips  of  halibut  cut  from  the  fish  as  soon  as 
killed  and  immediately  thrown  into  ice-water  and 
allowed  to  remain  for  some  time.  This  makes  the 
fish  firm  and  flakey.  It  is  boiled  in  salted  water, 
and  served  with  caper  or  other  fish  sauce.  BAKED 
HALIBUT  WITH  CREAM -A  dish  of  picked  halibut 
meat  in  cream  sauce,  with  chopped  mushrooms, 
bread-crumbed  on  top  and  browned.  FRIED  HALI- 
BUT, TOMATO  SAUCE— Slices  dipped  in  milk,  then 
in  flour,  fried  light  brown;  sauce  in  a  bowl.  HALI- 
BUT PIE  —  Same  ways  as  eel  pie  and  other  pies. 
HALIBUT  A  LA  CHAMBORD — Halibut  steaks  larded 
through  and  through  with  mushroom  stalks  cut  in 
strips  and  shreds  of  cucumbers  and  anchovies; 
brushed  over  with  lemon  juice,  let  stand  an  hour 
or  two.  Then  dipped  in  flour,  cooked  macaroni 
laid  on  in  cross-bars;  egged  over  the  top,  baked  in 
buttered  pan.  Decorated  with  mushrooms,  lemons, 
beets,  parsley;  thick  brown  sauce  piquante. 

HAM  —  "THE  HAM  FAIR -Every  spring  is  held, 
on  the  Boulevard  Richard  Lenoir,  at  Paris,  the  ham 
fair,  which  fills  the  air  with  the  odor  of  bacon.  A 
•double  row  of  booths  runs  along  the  boulevard. 
Between  bouquets  of  laurel  are  suspended  cakes  of 
dripping,  sausages  dry  as  marble,  and  smoked  hams; 
large  basins  of  lard  stand  about;  smoked  garlic-fla- 
vored sausages  and  other  similar  dainties  are  heaped 
up  mountain  high.  Behind  the  exhibits  are  gathered 
whole  families  of  country  folk;  the  wife  wears  a 
large  white  apron,  the  husband  walks  about  with 
knife  in  hand,  inviting  everybody  to  try  his  goods. 
The  ham  fair  which  has  just  been  held  is  said  to  have 
been  better  supplied  than  it  has  been  for  years. 
Lyons  and  Ar)es  sent  the  finest  specimens  of  pork, 
and  Bayonne  was,  as  usual,  represented  by  its  fam- 
ous hams.  Garlic  sausages  represented  the  town  of 
Yire,  and  from  the  district  of  the  Loire,  from  Italy 
and  Switzerland,  the  products  were  excellent." — 
STEAMED  HAM — Steaming  is  by  far  the  best  way 
of  cooking  a  ham.  Lay  in  cold  water  for  12  hours; 
wash  very  thoroughly,  rubbing  with  a  stiff  brush  to 
dislodge  the  salt  and  smoke  on  the  outside.  Put  into 
a  steamer,  cover  closely,  and  set  it  over  a  pot  of  boil- 
ing water.  Allow  at  least  20  minutes  to  a  pound. 
Keep  the  water  at  a  hard  boil.  Spinach  or  some 
green  vegetable  should  be  served  with  it.  ROAST 
HAM — Soak  the  ham  for  12  hours  in  water,  place  it 
in  a  deep  dish  or  earthenware  pan,  and  soak  for  24 
hours  in  white  wine,  seasoned  with  sliced  onions, 
carrots,  parsley,  laurel -leaves,  and  thyme;  cover  the 
pan  with  a  cloth,  and  press  on  the  lid  very  tight  to 
prevent  the  air  getting  in.  Roast  the  ham,  baste 
with  the  wine  in  which  it  was  soaked.  When  suffici- 
ently done,  dish  it  on  a  pure'e  of  spinach.  BOILED 
HAM — "Brush  the  ham  thoroughly  with  a  dry  brush, 
removing  every  particle  of  dust  or  mould.  Soak  for 
an  hcjjir  in  cold  water,  and  then  wash  thoroughly. 
With  a  very  sharp  knife  shave  off  cleanly  the  hard- 
ened surface  from  the  face  and  butt  of  the  ham.  Put 
it  over  the  fire  in  cold  water  and  let  it  come  to  a 


HAM 

moderate  boil  and  keep  it  steadily  at  this  point,  al- 
lowing it  to  cook  20  minutes  for  every  pound  of  meat. 
A  ham  weighing  12  Ibs.  will  need  to  boil  4  hours. 
This  time  should  never  be  cut  short;  on  smaller  hams 
it  should  rather  be  extended.  The  ham  is  to  be  served 
cold;  allow  the  joint  to  remain  in  the  pot  after  it  is 
removed  from  the  fire  for  several  hours,  until  the 
water  in  which  it  has  been  cooked  is  cold.  Then  dish 
as  before  suggested."  After  a  ham  has  been  sim- 
mered it  is  a  great  improvement  to  put  it  in  a  mod- 
erately warm  oven,  with  a  buttered  paper  over  it, 
and  bake  for  an  hour.  This  is  a  Yorkshire  custom, 
and  a.  good  one.  COOK-SHOP  HAM — At  the  ham- 
and-beef  shops,  which  constitute  one  of  the  catering 
features  of  London,  the  following  method  of  boiling 
hams  is  adopted  with  excellent  results:  The  hams 
are  always  placed  in  cold  water  in  a  copper,  under 
which  a  small  fire  is  made,  which  raises  the  water 
very  slowly  to  the  boiling  point.  The  moment  this 
is  accomplished  the  fire  is  raked  out,  the  copper  cov- 
ered over,  and  the  hams  are  allowed  to  remain  in  the 
water  until  it  is  nearly  cold.  By  this  means  the  flesh 
is  rendered  tender  and  juicy,  and  the  loss  of  weight 
is  guarded  against.  PRIZE-HAM  CURING  —  The 
following  is  the  method  of  curing  hams  that  re- 
ceived the  prize  at  a  New  England  fair:  To  every 
hundred  pounds  of  meat  take  eight  pounds  of  salt, 
two  ounces  of  saltpetre,  two  pounds  brown  sugar, 
and  one  and  a  quarter  ounces  potash  and. four  gallons 
\vater.  Mix  them  and  pour  the  liquids  over  the  hams 
after  they  have  been  in  the  tub  two  days,  they  hav- 
ing been  rubbed  with  fine  salt  when  put  in  the  tub. 
They  should  remain  in  this  pickle  six  weeks,  then 
taken  out,  hung  up  three  days  to  dry,  and  smoked. 
FRIED  HAM  FOR  BREAKFAST—  Is  particularly  nice 
when  the  slices  are  cut  the  night  before  and  are  al- 
lowed to  soak  all  night  in  a  cup  of  water  into  which 
a  tablespoonful  of  sugar  has  been  added.  This 
softens  the  meat  and  removes  excessive  saltness. 
DEVILLED  HAM — Cut  slices  of  cold  ham,  fry  in  their 
own  fat,  and  when  done  arrange  in  a  hot  dish.  Keep 
warm  while  you  add  to  the  gravy  a  teaspoonful  of 
made  mustard,  a  good  pinch  of  pepper,  a  saltspoon- 
ful  of  white  sugar,  and  three  tabiespoonsful  of  vin- 
egar. Mix  these  well  together  before  stirring  into 
the  gravy;  heatall  to  a  sharp  boil,  pour  over  the  ham, 
and  let  it  stand,  covered,  for  a  minute  before  sending 
to  the  table.  There  is  nothing  more  appetizing  than 
this  dish.  HAM  COOKED  IN  CIDER— Always  cook  a 
ham  in  cider  when  you  can  get  it.  Boil  three  hours 
and  bake  three,  using  also  the  cider  to  baste  with. 
The  apple  seems  the  natural  accompaniment  of  pork. 
Always  scrub  the  ham  well  before  boiling.  HAM 
GLACE,  CHAMPAGNE  SAUCE — (/)  A  ham  pared,  and 
soaked  for  24  hours  in  water  containing  a  little  vin- 
egar, then  covered  up  in  a  sheet  of  plain  flour-and- 
water  paste,  and  baked  4  hours;  glazed,  and  served 
with  champagne  sauce.  (2)  A  ham  pared,  soaked 
for  12  hours,  boiled  i  hour,  covered  with  a  mirepoix 
or  sauce  consisting  of  fried  onions  and  herbs 
moistened  with  wine,  then  inclosed  in  a  sheet  of 


340 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


HAM 

plain  paste,  and  baked  3  or  4  hours;  glazed,  and 
served  with  champagne  sauce.  JAMBON  D'YORK. — 
A  Yorkshire  ham,  or  ham  served  in  Yorkshire  style' 
It  is  pared,  soaked  for  12  hours  in  water,  boiled  an 
hour,  the  rind  removed;  roasted  or  baked  2  hours, 
glazed  with  the  gravy  and  a  dust  of  sugar,  the  hock 
pared,  and  a  paper-ruffle  put  around  the  bone;  served 
with  Yorkshire-ham  sauce.  JAMBON  A  LA  BROCHE- 
Ham  roasted  on  a  spit.  JAMBON  A  LA  MAILLOT — 
Ham  braised  in  wine,  served  with  vegetables  and 
Madeira  sauce.  JAMBON  WESTPHALIENNE— West- 
phalia in  Germany  is  famous  for  a  brand  of  small 
hams.  JAMBON  GLACE  A  LA  JARDINIERE— A  ham 
baked,  glazed,  and  garnished  with  various  vegeta- 
bles separately  stewed  in  butter  and  glazed.  HAM 
GARNISH — For  filling  potato  or  rice  borders,  casse- 
roles, croustades,  etc.,  is  made  by  cutting  ham  in 
large  dice,  button  onions  same  size  as  the  ham  pieces 
fried  with  them;  butter  and  flour  and  broth  made 
into  sauce,  and  green  peas  added.  CROUTONS  OF 
HAM — Chopped  ham,  chives,  parsley,  butter,  cay- 
enne, yolk;  stirred  up  over  the  fire;  served  on  fried 
bread.  MINCED  HAM  ON  TOAST — Like  the  preced- 
ing; the  seasonings  of  the  ham  may  be  varied  with 
catsups,  mustard,  and  bottle  sauces.  HAM  CRO- 
QUETTES— Made  of  i  cup  ham,  2  cups  dry  mashed 
potato,  i  cup  bread-crumbs,  i  tablespoon  butter,  i 
egg,  pepper;  made  in  balls,  breaded,  fried.  HAM 
FRITTERS — Minced  ham,  bread-crumbs,  and  egg  to 
moisten;  made  in  pats  or  balls,  dipped  in  bafter  and 
fried.  HAM  CAKE — Remains  of  ham  pounded  in  a 
mortar  with  butter,  shaped  in  a  mould,  turned  out 
and  eaten  cold;  or  mixed  with  crumbs  and  egg  it 
makes  small  ham-cakes  to  fry  and  serve  hot.  HAM 
A  LA  ROYAL— A  fancy  ornamental  dish  for  ball  sup- 
pers, etc.  Thin  fine  slices  of  lean  cooked  ham  are 
rolled  into  cylinder-shapes,  fastened  with  melted 
gelatine,  set  on  end  when  cold,  and  filled  with 
whipped  cream  containing  gelatine  to  set  it  and  cel- 
ery-salt for  flavor;  garnished  with  green  leaves  and 
jelly. 

HAMBURG  BEEF— Beef  cured  in  a  salt  pickle 
with  spices  and  herbs;  spiced  beef. 

HAMBURG  STEAK— Beef  sausage  meat  con- 
taining minced  onion  and  a  slight  flavor  of  garlic, 
formed  in  flat  round  pats  and  fried  in  butter;  served 
either  as  plain  steak  for  breakfast,  or  with  various 
sauces  as  a  dinner  entree. 

HANCHE  DE  MOUTON  (Fr.)  — Haunch  of 
mutton. 

HAND  GRENADES— For  extinguishing  fires. 
They  are  thin  bottles  filled  with  a  chemical  liquid 
said  to  consist  of  4  oz.  carb.  soda,  2  oz.  alum,  2  oz. 
borax,  i  oz.  pearl  ash,  i  Ib.  solution  of  silicate  of 
soda,  i  gal.  water;  corked  in  easily  broken  bottles 
which  are  thrown  into  the  flames  if  fire  breaks  out. 

HANOVER  BUNS— Small  round  rolls  or  rusks, 
made  of  i  Ib.  floor,  i  oz.  yeast,  J^  pt.  warm  milk,  6 
oz.  butter,  2  oz.  sugar,  4  yolks,  rind  of  J£  lemon; 
fermented  and  worked  like  bread. 


HAR 

HARE— Hares  are  not  found  in  the  United  States, 
unless  it  be  in  California,  but  a  great  many  come  to 
our  markets  both  from  England  and  Canada,  and 
their  peculiar  gamy  flavor  renders  them  generally 
great  favorites.  They  are  very  fine  eating  when 
young,  and  very  bad  indeed  when  old.  Examine 
the  ears;  if  they  tear  easily,  the  hare  is  young  and 
delicate,  and  if  the  body  is  still  stiff,  it  is  in  good 
condition;  but  never  buy  a  limp  hare.  The  ears  of 
a  hare  are  considered  a  great  delicacy;  they  require 
scalding  and  careful  cleaning,  and  must  be  closely 
watched  for  fear  they  will  burn.  AMERICAN  HARE 
— rls  known  as  jack-rabbit.  It  abounds  in  Colorado 
and  throughout  the  plains  country;  is  remarkable 
when  dressed  for  the  excess  of  blood  yielded  by  the 
meat,  and  would  well  fill  the  requirements  for  Scotch 
hare  soup  on  that  account.  HARE  SOUP — The  chief 
ingredient  of  Scotch  hare  soup  is  the  blood  of  the 
animal,  which  must  be  property  utilized;  therefore 
let  every  drop  of  it  be  carefully  preserved  by  the 
cook.  A  snared  hare  or  a  coursed  hare  is  better  for 
soup  than  one  from  which  the  blood  has  escaped. 
The  hare  is  cut  in  joints,  steeped  in  a  little  cold 
water  to  draw  the  blood;  the  best  pieces  of  meat 
saved  to  boil  in  the  soup,  the  bones  and  rough  pieces 
boiled  in  beef  stock  with  celery,  carrot  and  turnip 
for  3  hours.  Strained,  the  blood  added,  and  all 
stirred  over  the  fire  till  it  boils  again,  then  let  boil 
2  hours  more  with  the  pieces  of  hare  in  it,  and  sea- 
sonings. Grated  potato  added  for  thickening. 
PUREE  OF  HARE  A  L'ANGLAISE — The  hare  is  cut 
up  and  the  blood  saved;  the  pieces  fried  with  liver, 
onion,  carrot  and  butter;  mushrooms,  spices,  herbs 
added,  and  stock,  all  stewed  tender;  pieces  of  hare 
meat  pounded  through  a  seive,  mixed  with  starch 
and  the  blood,  stirred  in  the  strained  stock  over  the 
fire  till  it  thickens.  Served  with  forcemeat  balls  or 
quenelles.  LIEVRE  EN  DAUBE— Jugged  hare;  the 
hare  boned,  the  bones  and  head  pounded  and  stewed 
in  broth  and  wine,  with  vegetables;  the  hare  placed 
in  a  jar  lined  with  slices  of  bacon,  seasoned,  the 
bone  liquor  poured  in,  bacon  on  top,  baked  in  a 
slow  oven  4  hours;  served  in  the  jar.  CIVET  DE 
LIEVRE — Another  name  for  jugged  hare;  stewed 
hare.  LIEVRE  SAUTE — A  hare  cut  in  pieces,  fried 
in  butter,  served  in  sauce  made  of  the  butter  with 
flour,  wine  and  mushrooms.  FILETS  DE  LIEVKE — 
The  fleshy  strips  from  the  back  fried  and  dressed  in 
a  circle  with  brown  sauce.  FILETS  DE  LIEVKE  PI- 
QUES, SAUCE  TOMATO — Fillets  of  hare  larded  and 
braised,  served  with  tomato  sauce.  FILETS  DE 
LIEVRE  PIQUES  A  LA  BOURGUIGNOTTE— Fillets  exit 
in  halves,  larded  and  braised;  dressed  in  a  crown 
with  brown  sauce,  bacon  cut  in  dice,  young  onions, 
button  mushrooms  and  wine.  COTELETTES  DE 
LIEVRE  A  LA  DAUPHINE— Hare  cutlets;  slices  off 
the  fillets,  with  a  small  bone  stuck  in  each  to  imitate 

J  a  lamb  chop;  breaded  and  fried.  Piquante  sauce 
and  chopped  olives.  TURBAN  DE  LIEVRE  A  LA 
PERON.NE— Hare  cutlets  arranged  in  a  circle  alter- 

,  nately  with  quenelles  of  forcemeat  of  hare  (like  epi- 


THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


341 


]  I AR 

gramme  of  fowl;;  white  sauce  with  vinegar,  pickled 
onions,  etc.  BOL'DINS  DE  LIEVRE— Rolls  of  force 
meat  of  hare  bread-crumbed  and  browned — a  vari- 
ation of  rissoles  or  croquettes  of  hare.  ROAST  HARE 
— "Opinions  are  divided  as  to  the  propriety  of  roast- 
ing a  hare;  and  we  inust  say  that  a  ciret  Je  lie^•re  a 
la  Francaisc,  or  even  the  English  jugged  hare,  are 
better  forms  of  eating  a  hare,  if  it  be  not  true  that 
hares  were  solely  invented  to  be  made  into  soup,  as 
we  have  heard  Scotchmen  say.  If,  however,  you 
•will  roast  your  hare,  you  should  lard  him  very 
thickly  all  over  the  back  and  thighs.  He  should  be 
basted  plentifully  and  continuously  with  butter,  and 
he  should  not  be  overdone."  LIEVRE  EX  GITE — 
Potted  hare;  jugged  hare.  "In  France  we  have 
tureen-gites,  made  for  the  purpose;  they  are  very 
appropriate,  the  cover  representing  a  hare  lying  at 
rest."  Boned  hare  in  a  suitable  tureen  or  jar  packed 
with  bacon-slices,  sausage  meat,  aromatics,  wine, 
and  strong broih  made  from  the  bones;  baked  3  hrs. ; 
served  cold  in  the  jar  or  tureen. 

HARICOTS  (Fr.)— Beans.  HARICOTS  BLANCS- 
Xavy  beans.  HARICOTS  VERTS-String  beans.  HA- 
RICOTS FLAGEOLETS — See  Flageolets. 

HARICOT — A  mutton  stew  with  vegetables; 
brown.  (See  Navarin.) 

HASH — Various  contrivances  with  cooked  meat; 
generally  small  pieces  in  a  brown  gravy.  CORNED- 
BEEF  HASH— (/)  Corned  beef  chopped  small  and 
mixed  with  mashed  potatoes,  smoothed  over  in  a 
pan,  buttered,  and  baked  brown.  (2)  Minced  corned 
beef  and  minced  potatoes  with  an  onion,  salt  and 
pepper  simmered  in  a  little  broth  and  stirred  around 
till  partly  thickened;  served  out  of  the  saucepan, 
sprinkled  with  parsley.  FRENCH  HASH — Minced 
onion,  butter  and  flour  fried  together,  water  to  make 
sauce  of  it,  small  pieces  of  beef  thrown  in;  when 
hot,  two  yolks  stirred  in,  and  glass  of  wine,  and  sea- 
soning. HACHIS  A  LA  TOULOUSAINE — Hash  balls  or 
croquettes  of  beef  made  by  mincing  cooked  beef  and 
adding  boiled  calf's  brains  and  yolks  enough  to 
make  a  paste  of  it;  seasoned  with  acnhovy  essence 
salt,  pepper,  spices;  balled  up,  breaded,  fried;  tomato 
sauce. 

HATELET  (Fr.)— Skewer;  same  as  atelet  and 
brochette;  generally,  however,  used  to  designate  the 
silver  skewers  used  for  the  decoration  of  cooked 
meats. 

HAWK — A  Texas  sportsman  has  pronounced 
hawk  to  be  excellent  food.  He  found  the  smell 
"exceedingly  comforting,"  and,  though  rather  rich, 
hawk  was  "tender,  of  a  gamey,  very  good  flavor, 
peculiar  to  itself,  and  entirely  different  to  that  of  any 
other  bird  I  ever  ate,"  he  writes. 

HEAVENLY  HASH— "The  curious  name  for 
the  newest  American  fashionable  dish:  Oranges, 
bananas,  lemons,  apples,  raisins,  and  pineapples  are 
cut  up  into  little  bits,  worked  just  enough  to  thicken 
their  juices,  and  then  served  with  a  grated  nutmeg. 
But  the  serving  is  the  pretty  part.  Cut  a  hole  large 


HER 

enough  to  admit  a  spoon  in  the  stem  end  of  an  or- 
ange, which  you  empty,  then  fill  with  the  hash,  and 
serve  on  a  littie  glass  fruit-dish  with  lemon  or  or- 
ange leaves. 

HEAD  CHEESE— Cold  dish  made  of  pig's  head 
boiled  with  seasonings;  cut  in  pieces,  stewed  down 
again  with  the  strained  liquor,  and  either  allowed  to 
set  in  the  liquor,  which  is  a  firm  jelly  when  cold, 
or  pressed  into  a  solid  cake.  Collared  brawn,  col- 
lared rind  and  fromage  de  cochon  are  other  names  of 
the  same  dish,  the  ingredients  being  slightly  varied 
with  other  odds  and  ends  of  meat. 

1 1 EDGEHOG — A  correspondent  says  that  he  can 
from  experience  safely  recommend  a  hedgehog 
stewed  in  milk  as  a  real  delicacy.  It  is  well  known 
that  roast  hedgehog  is  a  favorite  dish  with  English 
gypsies.  "Hedgehog  is  good,  at  least  for  a  change, 
and  it  used  to  be  well  cooked  in  a  small  tavern  in  the 
Ghetto  of  Rome,  to  which  artists  frequently  resorted 
when  their  spirits  were  high  and  their  funds  low. 
According  to  an  aged  South  Italian  sportsman,  they 
should  be  killed  in  the  woods  and  immediately 
skinned,  then  allowed  to  hang  for  a  few  hours,  and, 
after  being  trussed  with  their  own  quills,  be  roasted 
before  a  sharp  fire.  The  stuffing  should  be  made  of 
their  own  fat,  finely  chopped  with  bread-crumbs 
and  such  seasoning  as  suits  the  cook's  taste." 

HELENA  PUDDING  — A  rich  bread-custard 
pudding  baked  with  jam  in  the  bottom  of  the  dish. 

HELL-BENDER— The  hell-bender  was  first  on 
the  list  of  piscatorial  delicacies  at  a  fish  dinner.  It 
was  pronounced  equal  to  the  finest  salmon,  but  only 
the  President  and  the  favored  few  had  a  chance  to 
eat  of  it.  It  is  a  higher  form  of  lizard,  is  about  a 
foot  long,  is  as  flat  as  a  pancake,  and  of  a  dirty  mud 
color,  while  a  funny  little  fringe  that  stands  out 
horizontally  runs  all  the  way  lengthwise  around  its 
body.  The  head  is  heart-shaped,  and  it  has  wicked 
little  black  eyes  like  beads.  Its  four  stumpy  legs 
end  in  white  toes.  It  is  called  by  scientific  gentle- 
men the  Menapoma  Allegheniensis,  and  is  a  sala- 
mander. \Vhen  you  plague  it  with  a  stick  ever  so 
gently,  it  humps  its  back  like  a  Mexican  mustang, 
standing  perfectly  still  on  the  tips  of  its  white  toes. 
It  is  said  that  a  hell-bender  will  seize  a  stick  in  a 
person's  hand,  and  will  hang  on  while  it  is  carried  a 
mile. 

HERRING — There  is  a  fresh  water  herring  abun  - 
dantin  Lake  Superior;  its  fins  however  show  it  to 
be  allied  to  the  salmon  family;  it  is  white  fleshed 
and  the  fillets  are  boneless,  like  brook  trout.  THE 
SEA  HERRING  is  one  of  the  most  abundant  fishes, 
but  its  season  is  so  short  that  fresh  herring  is  a  lux- 
ury while  it  lasts.  FRESH  HERRINQ  WITH  MUS- 
TARD SAL'CE — Soft  roed  herrings,  the  sides  scored 
with  a  knife,  soaked  a  while  in  oil,  salt  and  pepper, 
broiled,  served  with  white  sauce  with  mustard  stir- 
red in.  FRESH  HERRING  WITH  ONIONS — In  the  Isle 
of  Man  and  other  great  herring  localities  we  have 
seen  fried  onions  served  as  an  accompaniment  to 


342 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


HIP 

fried  herring  and  shad,  and  it  is  so  generally  appre- 
ciated that  we  think  those  who  have  not  thought  of 
the  combination  might  try  it  without  fear  of  a  dis- 
appointment. After  the  fish  are  fried,  they  should  be 
laid  on  a  soft  cloth  before  the  fire,  and  turned  every 
two  of  three  minntes,  ////  dry  on  both  sides.  It  is 
well  to  keep  old  linen  table-cloths  to  cut  up  for  this 
purpose.  RED  HERRINGS  AND  BLOATERS — The  her- 
ring house  is  a  lofty  shed,  about  |thirty  or  forty  feet 
high,  divided  into  compartments  by  racks  or  hori- 
zontal bars  of  wood,  across  which  the  wooden  spits, 
loaded  with  herrings,  are  laid  as  close  as  possible, 
from  the  top  of  the  house  to  within  six  feet  of  the 
floor.  A  fire  of  oak-wood,  or  billets,  as  they  are 
called,  is  then  kindled  beneath  them,  and  is  allowed 
to  burn  some  six  or  seven  hours.  This  is  called  a 
blenv,  from  the  effect  it  has  in  distending  the  skin  of 
the  fish.  In  order  perfectly  to  cure  the  herrings, 
they  must  be  subjected  to  ten  or  twelve  such  blows, 
or  firings,  an  interval  elapsing  between  each,  to  al- 
low the  fat  and  oil  to  drip  from  them,  so  that  the  pro- 
cess of  making  a  red-herring  occupies  six  or  seven 
days.  The  bloaters,  or  blown  herrings,  are  sub- 
jected to  only  one  firing,  and  are  much  less  dry. 
These  are  intended  for  immediate  consumption,  and, 
of  course,  do  not  require  so  long  a  time  for  curing. 
RED  HERRING  ON  HORSEBACK — In  former  days  in 
England,  it  was  the  unbroken  custom  to  serve,  at 
certain  seasons,  a  particular  dish  first;  as  a  boar's 
head  at  Christmas,  a  goose  at  Michaelmas,  a  gam- 
mon of  bacon,  or  a  "red  herring  riding  away  on 
horseback"  at  Easter.  This  last  was  after  the  fike- 
ness  of  a  man  on  horseback  set  in  a  corn  salad. 
BAKED  HERRINGS — Fresh  herrings  twisted  in  a 
round,  placed  in  a  deep  pie  dish  with  vinegar,  pep- 
per and  a  bay  leaf;  baked  45  minutes,  served  with 
the  liquor.  HERRING  PANCAKES — Smoked  herrings 
picked  from  the  bone,  cut  small,  mixed  in  pancake 
batter,  cooled  as  batter-cakes.  HARENG  GRILLES, 
SAUCE  MOUTARDE — Broiled  herrings  with  mustard 
sauce.  HARENGS  A  LA  CREME — Fresh  herrings 
boiled,  and  served  with  cream  sauce  with  butterand 
lemon  juice.  HARENGS  FUMES  A  LA  BRCXELLOISE 
— Boneless  sides  of  smoked  herrings  broiled  in  a 
paper  case  with  a  layer  of  stuffing  between  them. 
CROQUETTES  DE  HARENGS — Smoked  herrings  broil- 
ed, made  into  balls  with  potatoes  same  as  codfish 
balls. 

HIPPOPOTAMUS— Hippopotamus  fat  is  con- 
sidered a  treat;  when  cured  it  is  thought  superior  to 
our  best  breakfast  bacon;  and  the  flesh  is  both  pala- 
table and  nutritious,  the  fat  being  used  for  all  the 
ordinary  uses  of  butter. 

HISTORIE  EE  (Fr.)— Decorated  with  small  fig- 
ures. 

HODGE-PODGE  SOUP— Common  English  for 
Hotch-Potch,  a  mixture;  mutton  soup  thick  with 
pieces  of  meat  and  all  sorts  of  vegetables.  (See  Hot- 
Pot.) 

HOKEY-POKEY  ICE  CREAM— Italian  Occhi- 


HOX 

Pocchi — mixed  colors  and  flavors  of  ice  cream  in 
cakes;  one  form  of  biscuits g laces  or  ice  cakes. 

HOLLAXDAISE  SAUCE— A  yellow  sauce 
served  with  boiled  fish,  cauliflower  and  asparagus, 
made  by  boiling  3  tablespoons  vienegar  with  salt 
and  white  pepper  till  half  reduced;  cooled  with  a 
spoonful  of  cold  water,  4  yolks  beaten  in,  then  ^  Ib. 
butter  in  bits,  stirred  over  the  fire  till  the  yolks  thick- 
en it  but  not  boil. 

HOMARD— (Fr.)  —  Lobster.  POTAGE  DE  Ho- 
MARD — Lobster  soup.  COTELETTES  DE  HOMARD— 
Lobster  cutlets,  or  croquettes  in  cutlet  shapes. 

HOMINY — Is  grains  of  Indian  corn  freed  from 
the  outer  covering  of  bran,  and  therefore  is  white. 
There  are  three  or  four  different  grades  as  to  size, 
from  the  coarse  hominy,  as  large  as  peas  down  to 
the  white  meal  known  as  hominy  grits  or  samp. 
It  is  very  cheap  food;  usually  only  2  or  3  cents  per 
pound  by  the  barrel.  The  large  hominy  is  used  as 
a  vegetable,  like  rice;  and  after  boiling  quite  tender 
it  is  fried  and  served  for  breakfast  FRIED  HOMI- 
NY— The  form  of  fried  hominy  that  is  served  with 
canvas-back  ducks  a  la  Maryland,  is  fine  hominy 
well  boiled,  sliced  in  shapes  when  cold,  rolled  in 
flour  or  corn  meal  and  fried.  HOMINY  GRITS — Hot 
porridge  for  breakfast  or  supper,  made  of  fine  hom- 
iny soaked  in  water  several  hours ;  boiled  or  cooked 
in  a  double  kettle  for  2  or  3  hours,  served  with  milk 
or  cream.  HOMINY  PUDDING— Made  the  same  ways 
as  rice  puddings.  HOMINY  FRITTERS — (/)  Coarse 
hominy  well  cooked,  stirred  into  enough  flour  bat- 
ter to  hold  it  together,  spoonfuls  dropped  into  hot 
lard  and  fried  brown.  (2)  Fine  hominy  porridge, 
with  eggs,  sugar,  and  little  flour  beaten  in;  spoon- 
fuls dropped  in  hot  lard  and  fried  brown.  HOMINY 
CROQUETTES — Fine  hominy  porridge  mixed  wkh 
grated  cheese,  eggs  and  little  flour,  rolled  up  when 
cold  and  stiff,  egged,  breaded,  fried.  HOMINY  AND 
CHEESE — Cooked  hominy  of  either  kind  made  up 
with  cheese,  baked  brown.  LYE  HOMINY  OR 
HULLED  CORN — Indian  corn  steeped  in  water  con- 
taining lye  or  potash  till  it  swells  and  the  skin  is 
partly  dissolved,  washed  and  either  boiled  with 
milk,  or  fried. 

HOXEY — Buyers  and  consumers  of  honey  will 
do  well  to  note'that  the  suspiciously  light  and  bright 
product,  variously  labelled  "  Californian  Honey 
Dew,"  "Swiss  Table  Honey,"  etc.,  etc.,  is  frequent- 
ly a  sophisticated  article  made  up  of  glucose  and 
such-like  substances  brightened  by  mineral  acid. 
Furthermore,  darkness  is  no  indication  of  inferior 
quality,  as  some  suppose.  The  color  of  honey  de- 
pends upon  the  sources  from  which  it  is  collected  by 
the  bees,  and  much  of  that  which  is  of  a  dark  color 
is  quite  equal  (and  in  some  cases  superior)  to  that 
which  is  light  in  color;  honey  collected  by  the  bees 
from  white  clover,  limes,  fruit  blossoms,  sainfoin, 
hawthorn,  turnip,  bean,  heather,  etc.,  being:  of  dif- 
ferent hues.  HONEY  IN  THE  COMB — Is  offered  for 
sale  almost  everywhere  in  the  season,  and  is  the  best 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


343 


HOP 

to  serve  in  place  of  fruit  for  supper  and  of  syrup 
for  breakfast.  HONEY  MEAD — A  kind  of  wine. 
(See  Mead.)  HONEY  CAKE — Made  of  i  qt.  strained 
honey,  I  Ib.  sugar,  ^  Ib.  warm  butter,  a  tablespoon 
soda,  2  tablespoons  caraway  seeds,  flour  enough  to 
make  into  dough.  Made  up  and  baked  like  sheet 
gingerbread. 

HOPS— Needed  by  the  baker  to  make  yeast  with. 
They  will  not  make  yeast  alone  but  mixed  with 
mashed  potatoes  and  scalded  flour  or  any  kind  of 
meal  they  strengthen  the  fermentation  and  prevent 
sourness.  Can  be  purchased  in  packages  pressed. 
About  4  oz.  to  each  pailful  is  required.  HOP  BEER — 
Hops  boiled  in  water  and  molasses  or  sugar  added 
to  the  water  after  straining,  some  yeast  stirred  in 
when  cool,  ferments  and  makes  beer  in  a  few  days. 

HORLY  OR  ORLY— It  is  spelled  both  ways  by 
equally  good  authorities,  is  supposed  to  be  the  name 
of  a  French  admiral.  Only  one  dish  seems  to  carry 
that  designation,  consequently  a  la  Horly  always 
signifies  the  same  thing,  viz,  strips  of  fish  dipped 
in  batter  and  fried  and  served  with  onions  cut  in 
rings  fried  dry. 

HORSE  ME  AT— "To  revert  to  horse-flesh  and  the 
eating  of  it  in  Paris,  M.  Morillon  has  given  me  the 
following  statistics:  Thus  of  this  flesh  was  con- 
sumed in  1883  something  1  ike  5,000,000  Ibs.  and  about 
6,000,000  Ibs.  1884.  Besides,  there  is  to  be  added  about 
2,000,000  Ibs.  imported  into  Paris,  so  that  the  total 
consumption  of  horse,  mule,  and  donkey  flesh  in  this 
city  during  the  last  year  was  about  8,000,000- Ibs. 
(eight  million  pounds!  or  four  pounds  per  head  of 
the  entire  population.)  Now,  what  part  of  these 
eight  million  pounds  did  I  eat?  Who  shall  say? 
Ah!  who  shall  say?  " 

HORSERADISH— The  root  of  a  coarse-looking 
large-leaved  plant  which  once  rooted  in  a  garden 
corner  grows  and  spreads  year  after  year  without 
much  attention.  The  plentiful  time  for  it  is  in 
spring,  when  the  roots  are  taken  up  and  divided  for 
replanting;  the  great  surplus  of  roots  can  then  be 
grated  and  bottled  in  vinegar  for  use  during  several 
succeeding  months.  GRATED  HORSERADISH — There 
are  small  machines,  being  revolving  graters,  for  re- 
ducing the  roots  to  the  desired  fineness.  Of  all  the 
sauces  which  can  be  made  none  are  in  so  much  de- 
mand and  so  generally  acceptable  as  plain  grated 
horseradish  in  vinegar,  which  should  be  set  upon 
the  table  in  ornamental  jars  or  other  proper  recepta- 
cle. ADULTERATIONS — Much  of  the  grated  horse- 
radish purchased  in  bottles  is  weakened  in  strength 
by  mixture  with  grated  turnips,  cabbage  stalks, 
kohl-rabi,  etc.,  and  enterprising  and  unscrupulous 
gardeners  make  immense  profits  during  short  sea- 
sons bv  putting  up  these  fair-looking  but  too  mild 
flavored  imitations.  Pure  horseradish  is  too  strong 
to  be  eaten  extravagantly,  while  the  adulterated  ar- 
ticle is  but  a  mild  and  palatable  relish  and  becomes 
too  costly  for  use  at  horseradish  prices  on  account  of 
the  larga  quantity  which  will  be  consumed.  It  is 


HOT 

wise,  therefore,  to  buy  the  root  and  have  it  grated 
on  the  premises.  HORSERADISH  SAUCE  — Grated 
horseradish  boiled  in  broth,  one  or  two  yolks  beaten 
up  with  some  tarragon  vinegar  stirred  into  the  horse- 
radish to  thicken, .but  not  allowed  to  boil;  pepper 
and  nutmeg  added.  GERMAN  HORSERADISH  SAUCE- 
Grated  horseradish  boiled  in  gravy  or  plain  water; 
yolks  beaten  up  with  cream  and  vinegar  stirred  in 
to  thicken;  not  allowed  to  boil.  "This  sauce  is  in- 
variably served  in  Germany  with  all  forms  of  beef, 
either  broiled,  roasted,  or  boiled."  NAPOLITAINE 
SAUCE — Horseradish  in  brown  sauce  with  port  wine, 
ham,  Worcestershire  and  currant  jelly.  RAIFORT 
SAUCE — Horseradish  sauce ;  made  of  2  to  3  oz.  grated 
horseradish  in  J^  pt.  cream  sauce  and  a  wine-glass 
of  white-wine  vinegar.  HORSERADISH  MUSTARD— 
Horseradish  boiled  in  water,  strained  out,  and  the 
water  used  to  mix  mustard ;  good  condiment  for  beef. 
HORSERADISH  BUTTER  —Grated  horseradish,  butter 
and  lemon  juice  kneaded  together;  the  butter  then 
rubbed  through  a  seive;  served  with  beefsteaks. 

HOT  BREWS— Various  hot  drinks.  CARDINAL- 
Hot  spiced  port  and  burgundy  mixed  with  water  ac- 
cording to  taste.  BISHOP — Hot  spiced  burgundy 
with  roasted  crab-apples  floating  in  it — "obviously 
an  antique  custom,  since  Shakespeare  makes  Puck 
refer  to  'the  roasted  crab  in  the  bowl,'  which  the 
mischievous  sprite  delighted  to  make  bob  against 
the  old  gossips'  lips."  MULLED  WINES  — "For 
making  mulled  wines  generally,  it  is  said  that  you 
should  take  of  spices  five — cloves,  cinnamon,  allspice, 
nutmeg,  and  mace — boiling  them  in  a  pint  of  wine 
until  the  concoction  is  quite  aromatic  and  bitter.  It 
should  then  be  bottled  off  and  kept  in  store,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  the  essence  to  be  used  for  flavoring 
whatever  wine  is  mulled.  For  sweetening,  loaf- 
sugar  is  indispensable,  unless  prepared  syrup  be 
preferred."  WHITE  WINE  WHEY— For  colds;  made 
by  pouring  a  wine-glass  of  cowslip- wine  into  ^  pt. 
boiling  milk;  it  immediately  curdles,  is  strained,  and 
the  clear  liquor  sweetened  is  drunk  hot.  LAIT  DE 
POULE — Made  of  i  egg  beaten  up  with  sugar,  %  pt. 
hot  milk  poured  to  it,  and  a  spoonful  of  brandy. 
HOT  APPLE  TEA — For  colds;  sliced  apples  with 
sugar,  boiling  water  poured  to  them,  steeped ;  the 
liquor  drunk  hot.  YARD  OF  FLANNEL — Spiced  ale 
heated  nearly  to  boiling  point  (the  spice  being  gin- 
ger and  nutmeg),  an  egg  or  two  beaten  up  in  it,  and 
sugar;  poured  from  one  large  glass  to  another  sev- 
eral times,  drank  foaming  and  hot.  WASSAIL  BOWL- 
Xame  applied  to  hot  beer  and  wine,  with  spices  and 
spirits  added,  in  the  olden  time.  LOVING  CUP — 
Any  hot  brew  or  punch  was  a  loving  cup  when  the 
glasses  of  the  drinkers  were  clinked  together  and 
toasts  and  sentiments  were  pledged.  APPLE  TODDY- 
A  roasted  apple  in  a  glass,  i  teaspoon  sugar.'whisky 
enough  to  cover  the  apple,  hot  water  to  fill  up. 
PUNCH — Whisky,  brandy  or  rum  with  lemon,  sugar 
and  hot  water.  COUNCILLOR'S  CAP — Made  of  %  Ib. 
loaf  sugar  rubbed  on  the  rind  of  2  oranges;  %  pt. 
orange  juice,  juice  of  i  lemon,  J^  pt.  brandy,  i  pt. 


344 


THE   STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


HOT 

boiling  water.  CREOLES  SKIN — Quarter  glass  boil- 
ing water,  i  glass  black  currant  wine,,  a  dash  of  gin. 
MERRY  MEN — Half  glass  boiling  water,  i  glass 
Irish  whisky  and  a  dash  of  bay  rum.  RED  PEPPER 
SKIN — Half  glass  boiling  water,  I  teaspoonful  es- 
sence of  capsicum  or  pepper  sauce.  GINGER  SKIN — 
Half  glass  boiling  water  poured  on  i  teaspoon  grated 
ginger;  15  drops  essence  of  capsicum. 

HOT-POT— "A  thousand  hot-pots  (made  of  4,000 
Ibs.  of  meat  and  10,000  Ibs.  of  potatoes)  were  dis- 
tributed from  the  bakeries  of  Liverpool  amongst 
the  poor  of  that  city  at  Christmastide.  Each  hot-pot 
was  supposed  to  yield  ten  substantial  dinners." 
LANCASHIRE  Hor-PoT— "Take  an  earthenware  pan 
with  cover,  holding  a  quart  or  more.  Take  i  Ib.  of 
potatoes,  boil  them  three -parts,  and  when  cold  cut 
into  slices.  Take  three  sheep's  kidneys  and  bruise 
them  to  pieces  in  a  mortar.  Take  2  Ibs.  of  cutlets 
from  a  neck  of  mutton,  and  pare  them  neatly  of  fat 
and  skin;  take  18  oysters  and  preserve  their  liquor; 
take  a  few  mushrooms,  clear  them  of  all  white,  and 
mince;  take  salt,  pepper,  and  curry -powder  in  mod- 
erate proportions.  Now  form  in  your  pan  alternate 
layers  of  cutlets,  kidneys,  potatoes,  oysters,  mush- 
rooms, salt,  pepper,  and  curry-powder;  add  the  oys- 
ter liquor;  .keep  all  gently  simmering  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  3  or  4  hours.  Half  an  hour  before  serving 
make  a  rich  brown  gravy  with  a  gamey  flavor,  and 
'add  it  to  the  above.  Serve  in  the  pan." 

HOTCH-POTCH— French  hot-pot;  baked  soup; 
made  of  2  Ibs.  beef,  i  Ib.  sausage  meat,  i  onion,  i 
cucumber,  3  tomatoes,  few  asparagus  tops,  i  carrot, 
piece  of  cabbage,  y>  cup  raw  rice,  2  cups  green  peas, 
pepper,  salt,  cold  water.  "Cut  the  meat  small  and 
put  in  alternate  layers  with  the  vegetables  and  rice 
into  a  stout  stone  jar;  pour  in  3  qts.  of  water  when 
you  have  seasoned  the  vegetables;  fit  a  close  cover 
on  the  jar,  sealing  around  the  edges  with  a  paste  of 
flour  and  water;  set  in  the  oven  early  in  the  day, 
and  do  not  open  for  6hours;  then  pour  into  the  tu- 
reen, and  serve." 

HOT  SLAW  — Cabbage  finely  shaved  off  the 
head,  put  in  saucepan  with  water,  vinegar,  butter, 
red  pepper,  salt,  little  sugar,  yolks  of  eggs;  brought 
slowly  to  the  boiling  point;  liquor  is  like  thin  cus- 
tard; must  not  boil.  COLD  SLAW  A  LA  BOIIEMI- 
ENNE— Same  as  the  preceding  without  eggs;  boiled; 
in  the  vinegar- water  for  20  minutes. 

HUCKLEBERRY— See  Wortleberry. 

HUITRES  (Fr.)— Oysters. 

HURE  DE  SAXGLIER  (Fr.)— Boar's  head. 

HURE  DE  SAUMOX  (Fr.)— Head  and  shoul- 
ders of  salmon. 


ICE— In  Xew  York  the  daily  consumption  of  ice 
in  the  summer  months  amounts  to  upwards  of  10,000 
tons.  At  the  proper  hour  you  may  walk  down  a 
street  and  see  upon  every  door-step  a  lump  of  ice 


ICE 

varying  in  size  from  a  foot  square  upwards.  In 
fact,  ice  is  as  much  an  article  of  necessity  with 
Americans  as  milk.  HOME-MADE  ICE — To  make 
ice  at  home,  says  La  Science  en  Famille,  take  a  cyl- 
indrical earthen  vessel  and  pour  three  and  one -third 
ounces  of  commercial  sulphuric  acid  and  one  and 
three-fourths  ounces  of  water  into  it,  and  then  add 
i  ounce  of  powdered  sulphate  of  soda.  In  the  centre 
of  this  mixture  place  a  smaller  vessel  containing 
the  water  to  be  frozen;  then  cover  the  vessel  and,  if 
possible,  revolve  the  whole  with  a  gentle  motion. 
In  a  few  minutes  the  water  in  the  small  vessel  will 
be  converted  into  ice.  The  same  mixture  can  be 
used  a  second  or  third  time  for  making  a  block  of 
ice.  The  operation  should,  if  possible,  be  performed 
in  a  cool  place — in  a  cellar,  for  example.  ICE  OR- 
NAMENTALLY USED — At  a  princely  entertainment 
there  were  19  tables  arranged  about  a  lofty  central 
crystal  fountain  9  feet  high  and  5^  feet  in  diameter, 
from  which  the  water  trickled  down  through  trail- 
ing plants,  amidst  which  stood  aquatic  birds  of  gay 
plumage.  The  fountain  was  surrounded  by  a  gravel 
path  with  rock-work.  Huge  blocks  of  ice  were 
raised  on  buffets  7  feet  high  in  various  parts  of  the 
room;  into  these  were  thrown  different  shades  of 
color,  thus  giving  a  striking  effect.  ICE  WINDOW 
ORNAMENT — A  dome  of  ice  hollow  and  with  a  light 
inside  makes  an  attractive  window  show  for  a  res- 
staurant  or  ice-cream  house.  It  is  made  by  setting 
a  round-bottomed  copper  candy  kettle  full  of  \v;iter, 
plain  or  colored,  in  a  tub  of  ice  and  salt  freezing 
mixture.  When  frozen  an  inch  or  two  thick,  turned 
out,  a  hole  bored  in  the  bottom  with  a  hot  iron,  used 
bottom  side  up,  with  a  lamp  or  gas  inside.  ICE 
STANDS  FOR  ICES — Colored  water  frozen  solid  in 
moulds,  turned  out  on  a  napkin,  to  serve  as  stands 
for  moulded  ice-creams,  frozen  puddings,  etc.  Dif- 
ferent colors.  ICE  BLOCKS  FOR  STRAWBERRIES — 
There  is  no  more  tempting  way  of  serving  straw- 
berries, on  a  hot  morning,  than  from  a  block  of  clear 
ice.  Chip  a  well  in  its  centre  and  drop  the  berries 
into  it.  A  cluster  of  yellow  roses,  or  other  flowers, 
or  even  ferns  alone,  will  prove  appropriate  decora- 
tion. 

ICES— Frozen  sweets  of  all  kinds,  particularly 
water  ices  and  cream  ices,  or  sherbets  and  ice 
creams.  SORBET  A  L'IMPERIALE — A  new  form  of 
ice,  to  be  served  in  ice-cups  between  the  courses; 
flavored  with  pineapple  or  strawberry,  rum  being 
used  with  the  former  and  champagne  with  the  latter; 
but  so  deftly  concocted,  that  the  most  suspicious 
teetotaler  would  partake  of  it  in  blissful  ignorance. 
NOVEL  FORMS — Ice-cream  is  now  served  in  the 
form  of  a  water  melon;  oysters  on  the  shell  at  din- 
ner parties  come  enveloped  in  shredded  lettuce  like 
sea- weed;  sherbet  is  served  in  tiny  pasteboard 
punch  bowls,  and  cherries  and  plums  filled  with 
cordial  are  served  with  dessert.  MOULDED  CELEB- 
RITIES— "  When  in  Munich,  the  daughters  of  Wag- 
ner, the  composer,  ordered  ices  at  a  cafe,  and  these 
were  placed  before  them  made  into  the  likeness  of 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


345 


ICE 

Wagner.  Of  course,  they  were  surprised,  and  re- 
fused the  ices,  and  explanations  became  necessary. 
'Oh,  we  cannot  eat  our  father's  head!'  "  MAR- 
QUISES JAMAIQUE — The  Marquises  Jamaique,  which 
came  as  a  very  pleasant  relief  from  the  eternal 
punch  Romaine,  were  ices  flavored  with  Jamaica 
rum,  an  excellent  stimulus  in  mid-dinner.  ICE 
CREAM  AS  WAFFLES — "Turkey  wings  and  mush- 
rooms was  a  course  at  a  club  dinner  party  last  week, 
and  the  ice-cream  came  on  the  table  in  the  form  of 
waffles."  ICED  RICE  SNOWBALLS — "A  new  entre- 
met,  deliciously  cool  and  tempting  at  this  time  of 
year,  is  iced  rice  snowballs.  Freeze  in  the  shape  of 
balls,  rice  well  boiled  in  water,  and  flavored  with 
lemon  or  orange,  and  serve  in  a  green  glass  dish, 
covering  each  balls  separately  with  whipped  cream. 
PARFAIT  LEGER  AUX  CERISES  —  A  new  and  deli- 
cious iced  sweet,  invented  by  the  chefior  the  occa- 
sion of  a  dinner  to  the  Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales : 
Cherry  juice,  to  which  a  slight  soufcon  of  Kirsch- 
wasser  is  added,  is  frozen  lightly  and  mixed  with 
sweetened  whipped  cream,  the  color  being  height- 
ened by  a  little  cochineal.  The  mixture  is  placed  in 
suitable  moulds  and  lightly  frozen.  A  sauce,  com 
posed  of  cherry  juice  and  unfrozen  whipped  cream, 
is  served  with  the  above  in  a  sauce -boat.  A  ROSE 
OF  ICE — One  new  idea  is  a  large  rose  of  ice,  with 
bud  and  leaf  of  the  real  flower  inserted.  Sometimes 
the  ices  take  the  form  of  a  lighted  candle,  the  sockec 
being  made  of  brown  ice,  the  candle  of  pistachio, 
and  the  flame  of  cinramon.  MOUSSES  GLACES,  OR 
ICED  FROTHS — Whipped  cream  sweetened  and  va- 
riously flavored  piled  in  glasses  and  frozen  in  the 
same  glasses  in  which  they  are  served.  CHESTNUT 
MOUSSE — Puree  of  chestnuts  mixed  with  whipped 
cream,  sugar  and  vanilla,  frozen  in  a  mould.  ICED 
QUAILS,  OR  CAILLES  A  LA  LESSEES  —  The  little 
birds  boned,  stuffed,  and  masked  with  rich  brown 
gravy,  resting  against  a  block  of  ice,  and  all  sur- 
rounded with  transparent  aspic.  A  fruit  salad,  in 
cups  of  solid  ice,  served  as  a  fitting  introduction,  to 
this  dish.  NEAPOLITAN  SORBETTO — "  Some  of  you 
make  the  best  ices  in  the  world,  of  which  I  have  had 
practical  experience.  But  why  is  it  that  it  is  impos- 
sible to  get  the  Neapolitan  sorbetto,  which  is  some- 
thing between  a  water  ice  and  a  glassful  of  flavored 
snow  in  a  state  of  thaw?  Gramolata,  I  should 
call  it,  rather,  or  gramta,  as  in  Florence.  I  pre- 
sume it  is  as  easy  to  make  as  a  water  ice,  and  only 
needs  less  freezing.  In  the  summer  it  is  the  invari- 
able first  breakfast  of  the  Neapolitan,  who  would 
be  thrown  into  a  fever  by  any  hot  beverage.  The 
favorite  flavors  are  lemon,  coffee,  and  cedar,  and  it 
is  usually  eaten  with  biscuits  or  crescents."  RO- 
MAN GRANITO— Equal  parts  of  strong  coffee  and 
plain  sugar  syrup,  put  into  wide-mouthed  bottles, 
placed  in  a  freezing  mixture  of  ice  and  salt  till  half 
frozen,  served  in  coffee  cups  or  glasses.  CLARET 
GRANITO— Juice  of  6  oranges,  rind  of  2,  i  pt.  syrup, 
i  pt.  claret;  the  orange  rind  previously  steeped  in 
the  syrup.  Half  frozen  like  roman  granito.  PUNCH 


ICE 

GRANITO — Made  of  3  wineglassfuls  each  of  tea, 
brandy,  rum,  syrup,  maraschino,  pineapple  syrup, 
orange  and  lemon  juice  and  a  pint  of  champagne. 
Same  way  as  other  granitos.  GLACE  A  L'ORANGE 
— Made  of  i  qt.  syrup,  i  pt.  orange  juice,  rind  of  3 
oranges  infused  in  i  pt.  water,  strained,  frozen. 
ORANGES  FILLED  WITH  ICES — Circular  piece  cut 
out,  orange  skin  emptied  with  spoon,  filled  with 
orange  ice  in  which  are  glac6  fruits  soaked  in  mara- 
schino. Piece  replaced,  oranges  frozen  in  sorbetiere 
before  serving.  REINE-CLAUDE  ICE — Green-col- 
ored ice-cream,  made  of  pulp  of  green-gage  plums 
mixed  with  whipped  cream  after  being  nearly 
frozen.  (See  Gateau  Stanley.)  FROZEN  SOUFFLES 
— Equal  parts  of  rather  firm  and  sweet  custard, 
strongly  flavored  with  vanilla,  white  of  egg  beaten 
stiff,  and  whipped  cream.  Mix  these  three  ingre- 
dients very  lightly  together,  and  fill  into  moderate- 
sized  paper  souffle-cups,  which  place  in  an  ice-cave. 
PISTACHIO  CUSTARD  ICE — Custard  made  of  cream, 
sugar  and  yolks,  pistachio  nuts  blanched  and 
pounded,  green  coloring,  orange  flower  water,  va- 
nilla; frozen  as  ice  cream.  ORGEAT  ICE — Orgeat 
is  milk  of  almonds,  made  by  pounding  %  Ib.  al- 
monds, adding  3  qts.  water,  sugar,  orange  flower 
water,  strained,  frozen.  GLACE  CREME  DE  THE — 
Tea  ice-cream.  GLACE  CREME  DE  VANILLE — Ya- 
nilla  ice-cream.  GLACE  CREME  DE  RATAFIAS — 
Almond  macaroon  ice-cream.  GLACE  CREME 
BAVAROISE  —  Frozen  Bavarian  cream.  GLACE 
CREME  DE  FLORIDA  —  Ice-cream  with  infusion 
of  orange  flowers.  GLACE  CREME  DE  CAFE — 
Coffee  ice-cream.  GLACE  CREME  DE  NOYAU — 
Noyau  ice-cream.  CREME  D'ABRICOTS  —  Apricot 
ice-cream.  CREME  DE  PECHES — Peach  ice-cream. 
CREME  DE  FRAiSES^-Strawberry  ice-cream.  CREME 
DE  FRAMBOISES — Raspberry  ice-cream.  CREME  DE 
GROSEILLES — Currant  ice-cream.  CREME  DE  CE- 
RISES—  Cherry  ice-cream.  CREME  DE  RAISINS  — 
Grape  ice-cream.  CREME  D'ANANAS  —  Pineapple 
ice-cream.  CREME  DE  CITRON — Lemon  ice-cream. 
CREME  D'ORANGES  —  Orange  ice-cream.  CREME 
D'AMANDES — Almond  ice-cream.  CREME  DE  Pis- 
TACHES-Pistachio  nut  ice-cream.  CREME  DE  MAR- 
RONS-Chestnut  ice-cream.  CREME  DE  GINGEMBRE- 
Ginger  ice-cream.  GLACE  EAU  DE  CANNEBERGES — 
Cranberry  water-ice.  GLACE  EAU  DERHUBARBE- 
Rhubarb  water-ice.  GLACE  EAU  DE  PoNCHE-Punch 
water-ice.  EAU  DE  MELON—  Melon  water-ice.  EAU 
DE  GRENADE  —  Pomegranate  water-ice.  EAU  DE 
MILLE  FRUITS — Mixed  fruit  water-ice.  BISCUIT 
GLACE — Made  of  thick  sugar-syrup  flavored  with 
vanilla,  beaten  into  8  yolks  for  each  pint,  stirred  over 
a  slow  fire  till  it  thickens,  stirred  again  on  ice  till 
cold  and  frothy;  mixed  with  equal  quantity  of  cream 
whipped  to  froth;  filled  into  paper  cases  powdered 
with  macaroon  dust;  frozen  in  the  cases.  PARFAIT 
i  AU  CAFE — Coffee  ice-cream  frozen  in  a  mould,  made 
of  coffee-syrup;  beaten  into  S  yolks  for  each  pint, 
thickened  over  the  fire;  stirred  then  on  ice,  mixed 
with  whipped  cream.  CHARLOTTE  PLOMBIERES — 


846 


THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


ICE 

Another  name  for  tutti-frutti  ice  cream,  or  crema  de 
Ttno',  made  of  vanilla  ice-cream  mixed  with  whipped 
cream,  kirsckwasser  to  flavor,  and  candied  fruits; 
frozen  as  a  charlotte  in  a  mould  lined  with  lady- 
fingers.  GLACE  DE  PLOMBIERES — Almond  custard 
mixed  with  whipped  cream  and  frozen;  not  moulded, 
but  served  with  apricot  jam.  GATEAU  GLACE  A 
L'ELOISE  —  A  mould  lined  with  whipped  cream 
frozen,  interior  filled  with  stewed  cherries  in  cus- 
tard, all  frozen  solid;  turned  out;  served  with  a  cus- 
tard over  it.  BAKED  ICE  CREAM  or  GLACE  MER- 
INGUEE  AU  FOUR — Ice  cream  turned  out  of  a  mould, 
covered  with  very  cold  meringue  and  quickly 
browned  a  little  in  a  hot  oven  or  with  red-hot  iron. 
ICE  BAKED  IN  PASTE  or  GLACES  AU  FOUR — Small 
pieces  of  ice  folded  in  paste  carefully  to  exclude  the 
air;  baked  brown  quickly  in  a  hot  oven.  BOMBE  A 
LA  SOUVERAINE — Mould  lined  with  white  paper, 
inside  coated  with  almond  ice-cream,  filled  up  with 
tea  custard  mixed  with  whipped  cream;  frozen  solid 
in  mould.  MOUSSE  AU  CAFE  VIERGE — Coffee  cus- 
tard mixed  when  cold  with  whipped  cream;  frozen 
solid  in  a  mould.  CHARLOTTE  GLACE  A  L  v  ME- 
DICIS — Charlotte-russe  filled  with  chocolate  ice- 
cream. GLACE  PRALINEE  A  L'ORANGB — Mould 
filled  on  one  side  with  almond  nougat  ice-cream, 
the  other  side  with  orange  water-ice.  FILBERT 
ICE-CREAM — Nougat  or  filbert^  candy  pounded,  used 
to  flavor  the  cream.  FLORENTINE  ICE-CREAM — 
Custard  and  cream  flavored  strongly  with  orange - 
rind;  frozen.  MOUSSE  AUX  PRAISES — Strawberry 
pulp,  sugar  and  whipped  cream  frozen.  MUSCOVITE 
WITH  CURRANTS — Russian  or  whipped  jelly  made  of 
currant  juice  and  gelatine,  mixed  with  whipped 
cream  frozen  in  a  mould.  MOUSSE  AU  CAFE  NOIR — 
Coffee  custard  when  cold  mixed  with  whipped 
cream  and  frozen.  MOUSSE  AUX  PECHES — Pulp  of 
ripe  raw  peaches  with  custard  and  whipped  cream; 
frozen.  MUSCOVITE  OF  PEACHES —  Peach  pulp, 
sugar,  gelatine  and  water  mixed  -with  whipped 
cream,  and  frozen.  MOUSSE  AU  MARASQUIN — Cus- 
tard of  volks  and  syrup  flavored  with  maraschino 
and  kirsdrwasser,  mixed  with  whipped  cream,  and 
frozen.  MUSCOVITE  OF  PINEAPPLE— Grated  pine- 
apple, sugar  and  gelatine  made  into  jelly,  whipped, 
mixed  with  whipped  cream,  and  frozen.  BOMBE 
AUX  FRUITS — Bomb-shaped  mould  lined  with  choc- 
olate ice-cream,  center  filled  with  tutti-frutti;  frozen 
solid.  EXCELLENT  AU  CAFE  —  Coffee -flavored 
custard  mixed  with  whipped  cream,  and  frozen  in  a 
square  mould.  SPONGADE  DI  ROMA — Frozen  egg- 
nogg.  BROWN  BREAD  ICE-CREAM — Slice  of  brown 
bread  without  crust,  and  slice  of  sponge  cake  dried 
in  the  oven,  pounded,  sifted,  mixed  in  curacao; 
frozen.  PUNCH  ICE-CREAM — Made  of  i  pt.  cream, 
2  glasses  Jamaica  rum,  J^  pt,  green  tea,  juice  of  J^ 
lemon,  8  oz.  sugar;  frozen.  CREMA  DI  VINO — A 
tutti-frutti  with  wine  made  of  cream  custard;  white 
wine,  sugar,  cut  candied  fruits;  frozen.  RICE  ICE- 
CREAM— Rice  boiled  in  milk,  mixed  with  custard 
and  cream;  frozen.  COCOANUT  ICE-CREAM — Either 


ICE 

white  or  yellow,  made  by  mixing  grated  fresh  cocoa- 
nut,  or  desiccated  cocoanut  scalded  in  either  custard 
and  cream  or  starch -thickened  cream.  PANACHEE 
ICE-CREAM — Different  colored  ices  in  the  same 
mould;  marbled  ice-cream;  ribbon  ice-cream;  harle- 
quin ice-cream.  GLUCOSE  IN  ICE  CREAM — See 
Glucose.  Glucose  used  for  sweetening  instead  of 
sugar  makes  ice  cream  smooth  and  light  and  foamy; 
a  valuable  wrinkle.  GELATINE  IN  ICE  CREAM— A 
small  quantity  of  gelatine,  not  more  than  i  oz.  in  3 
qts.,  makes  it  smooth  and  light  and  less  easy  to  melt. 
Wine  jelly  or  any  gelatine  jelly  can  be  employed  as 
well. 

ICED  SOUPS — Clear  soups  are  sometimes  served 
ice-cold,  like  iced  tea  or  coffee,  in  consomm£  cups. 
"At  a  recent  ball -supper  given  by  the  Rao  of  Cutch 
in  London,  iced  sou^p  was  served,  and  eagerly  de- 
voured by  the  guests,  who  were  regaled  with  true  In- 
dian curries  and  devilled  chicken  of  superlative  ex- 
cellence." 

ICED  PUDDINGS— Compound  ice-creams,  such 
as  those  containing  fruit,  nuts,  cocoanut,  rice,  tapi- 
oca, etc.,  are  sometimes  called  iced  puddings;  some 


ICE  MOULD. 
For  several  colors,  or  ice  puddings,  creams,  etc. 

are  composed  of  two  parts  in  a  mould  as  an  outside 
of  rice  ice-cream  with  a  filling  of  apple-ice.  The 
best  known  is  called  Nesselrode,  which  see. 

ICELAND  MOSS— A  lichen  which  serves  the 
purpose  of  making  jelly  like  gelatine. 

ICE-MAKING  MACHINES  — Artificial  ice  is 
made  in  almost  every  large  town,  even  in  the  far 
south  and  the  AVest  Indies.  Small  machines  for  fam- 
ily use  also  are  on  sale.  The  freezing  is  effected  by 
the  rapid  evaporation  of  ammonia,  which  produces 
intense  cold  in  pipes  which  run  through  brine, 
which  thus  becomes  cold  enough  to  freeze  fresh 
water  that  is  set  in  it  in  cans.  The  ammonia  is  con- 
densed and  used  over  again.  A  complete  hotel 
"plant"  costs  from  $2,000  to  $3,000. 
i  ICE  CRUSHERS— Various  devises  for  crushing, 
shaving  and  rasping  ice  are  in  the  market,  suitable 
for  ice-cream  freezers  and  bar-tender's  use. 

ICE  CREAM  MOULDS— They  are  made  of  all 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


347 


ICI 

shapes  and  sizes,  of  tin,  copper,  lead  and  pewter; 
like  melons,  pyramids,  fruits,  bricks,  bombs,  jugs, 
and  new  designs  are  always  coming  out.  Figures, 
such  as  cupids,  birds,  etc.,  are  in  two  parts  hinged 
together;  the  joints  are  sealed  up  with  butter  to  keep 
the  salt  water  from  reaching  the  ice  cream  inside. 
It  is  found  best  to  line  such  moulds  as  admit  of  it 
with  white  paper  to  facilitate  the  withdrawal  of  the 
moulded  ice. 

ICING  CAKES— Sometimes  called  frosting;  the 
covering-  of  cakes  with  a  coating  of  sugar,  and  orna- 
menting them. 

ICING— Is  of  several  kinds.  WATER  ICING — 
Fine  powdered  sugar  wetted  with  water,  and  fla- 
vored, and  spread  over  the  surface  of  the  cake.  It 
is  of  a  pearly,  semi-transparentappearance,and  does 
not  break  when  the  cake  is  cut.  Is  also  made  with 
fruit- juices  or  syrup  instead  of  water,  or  with  wine, 
or  colored  with  any  confectionery  coloring.  FON- 
DANT ICING — Creamed  sugar,  such  as  chocolate- 
cream  drops,  etc.,  are  made  of,  is  partially  dissolved 
and  poured  and  spread  over  cakes  while  warm,  and 


TUBES   FOR   CAKE  ORNAMENTING. 

considered  the  best  kind  of  icing.  It  contains  no 
white  of  eggs,  but  the  sugar  is  boiled  to  the  degree 
of  soft  ball,  then  worked  with  a  paddle  on  a  slab  till 
perfectly  white.  WHITE- OF- EGG  ICING — Powdered 
sugar  wetted  with  white  of  egg  and  beaten  with  a 
paddle  about  15  minutes,  or  till  firm  and  white.  A 
little  acid  of  any  harmless  kind  assists  in  the  mak- 
ing. When  firm  enough  to  pipe  ornaments  on  the 
cake,  part  of  it  is  thinned  down  with  more  white  of 
egg  to  spread  over  the  surface  of  the  cake  smooth 
and  glossy;  the  ornamenting  is  put  on  when  the 
coating  is  partly  dry.  CHOCOLATE  ICING — Grated 
chocolate  beaten  into  boiling  sugar  at  the  stage  of 
the  "feather"  or  soft  ball,  a  little  lard  or  fat  of  some 
kind  added  to  make  it  glossy.  YELLOW  IciNG-Made 
with  yolks  and  sugar;  or,  white  icing  colored.  AL- 


IND 

CGHOL  ACID  TO  STIFFEN  ICING — Bakers'  specialty. 
One  ounce  "Uric  acid  in  2  oz.  alcohol;  it  slowly  dis- 
solves; a  few  drops  added  to  icing  when  beating 
makes  it  firm  and  white. 

ICING  TUBES  OR  IOINTS  — Small  cones  of 
thin  brass  or  other  metal  about  an  inch  long,  to  be 
obtained  at  the  confectioners'  supply  stores.  The 
points  are  filed  into  various  shapes,  which  shape 
the  cords  of  icing  pressed  through  them.  They 
are  used  by  dropping  them  as  point  into  a  cone- 
shaped  bag  or  paper,  with  the  points  cut  off  to  re- 
ceive them,  and  the  bag  is  then  filled  with  icing. 

IMPERIAL  GENOISE  CAKE-Richest  cake 
mixture;  made  of  i  Ib.  sugar,  i6eggs,  %  Ib.  butter, 
Yt,  Ib.  flour,  %  Ib.  ground  almonds,  vanilla,  almond 
and  lemon  extracts.  Eggs  and  sugar  whisked  in 
kettle  set  in  warm  water,  melted  butter  poured  in, 
then  almonds  and  flour.  Baked  in  shallow  moulds 
or  in  sheets. 

IMPERIAL  PUNCH— Made  of  pineapple,  or- 
anges, vanilla,  lemons,  sugar,  cinnamon,  hock,  rum, 
champagne,  seltzer,  and  water. 

IMPERIAL  PUDDING  A  LA  CORDON 
BLEU — Dry  cooked  rice  rubbed  through  a  seive, 
seasoned  with  little  butter,  sugar  and  cinnamon; 
mould  lined  with  it.  Inside  filled  half  with  grated 
pineapple  and  raw  egg,  rest  of  space  with  cocoanut, 
custard  (raw),  with  eggs  plenty  to  set  firm;  steamed, 
turned  out  of  mould. 

INDIAN  PIUTE  COOKERY— "The  Indians  at 
the  Sink  of  the  Humboldt  catch  a  great  many  small 
fish,  of  which  they  make  a  kind  of  chowder.  The 
fish  are  caught  by  means  of  dip-nets,  some  S  feet 
square,  suspended  from  a  pole  supported  on  two 
crotchets,  like  an  old-fashioned  well-sweep.  These 
nets  are  worked  by  the  squaws.  They  catch  from  a 
quart  to  a  peck  of  minnows  at  a  dip.  The  fish  so 
caught  are  beaten  into  a  sort  of  pulp  or  paste,  just 
as  they  come  out  of  the  water,  insides,  outsides  and 
all.  A  certain  amount  of  flour  is  then  added  to  the 
mass,  and  it  is  either  baked  and  eaten  as  a  cake  or 
boiled  and  eaten  as  a  sort  of  soup  or  chowder." 

INDIAN  PUDDINGS— Made  of  corn  meal,  gen- 
erally boiled  mush  or  porridge  mixed  with  butter, 
syrups,  eggs,  ginger,  baked. 

INDIAN  CHUTNEY— Relish  made  of  Soz.  su- 
gar, 4  oz.  salt,  2  oz.  garlic,  2  oz.  shallots,  4  oz.  ground 
ginger,  2  oz.  red  peppers,  4  oz.  mustard  seed,  6  oz. 
raisins  stoned,  i  bottle  vinegar,  15  large  sour  ap- 
ples, 6  oz.  tomatoes.  Chop  up  the  garlic,  shallots, 
tomatoes,  and  raisins,  and  wash  the -mustard  seed  in 
vinegar  and  let  it  dry.  Then  add  all  to  the  apples 
and  sugar,  and  boil  slowly  for  an  hour  and  a  half. 
Add  the  other  half -bottle  of  vinegar;  let  it  cool,  and 
bottle  off  or  cover  in  jars. 

INDE  (Fr.)— Coq  dTnde  is  the  old  name  of  the 
turkey,  whence  the  present  dinde.  The  old  French 
is  still  sometimes  used  in  bills  of  fare. 

INDIENNE  (Fr.)— Relating  to  the  East  Indies. 


348 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


IRI 

SOUP  A  L'INDIENNE — Curry  soup.  SAUCE  IXDIEN- 
NE — Indian  sauce  or  tomato  sauce  with  curry  and 
anchovy  essence.  INDIENNE  DE  POLXAKDE — Chick- 
en or  capon  in  Indienne  sauce  or  curry  sauce — used 
in  the  same  sense  as  a  Snedoise  (Swede)  of  peaches, 
or  Muscovite  of  apricots. 

IRISH  MOSS — Similar  to  Iceland  moss  and  used 
for  the  same  purpose.  A  determined  attempt  was 
made  a  few  years  ago  to  popularise  these  mosses  for 
use  instead  of  gelatine  and  isinglass,  but  the  pre- 
pared moss  was  never  free  from  a  peculiar  and  un- 
pleasant taste  and  the  efforts  of  the  manufacturers 
proved  abortive. 

IRISH  STEW— Mutton  stewed  with  potatoes  and 
onions,  salt  and  pepper,  until  quite  tender,  and  the 
liquor  is  reduced  to  the  richness  of  gravy.  A  cer- 
tain essayist  assures  us  that  there  are  three  dishes 
which,  if  put  upon  the  bill  of  fare  of  a  club,  are  de- 
voured before  all  else,  so  that  at  seven  or  eight 
o'clock,  when  most  members  dine,  there  is  nothing 
left  of  them  but  the  tempting  words  on  the  dinner- 
bill.  These  dishes  are  Irish  stews,  tripe  and  onions, 
and  liver  and  bacon !  "What  a  tribute,"  exclaims 
our  author,  "to  the  homely  cookery  of  Britain." 

ISINGLASS— Made  from  fish,  the  best  is  made 
from  the  swim -bladder  of  the  sturgeon.  It  is  used 
for  making  jelly  and  for  all  the  purposes  of  gelatine 
but  being  dearer  than  that  is  not  now  much  used. 
When  gelatine  was  first  made  in  a  refined  and  shred- 
ded form  it  was  sold  as  isinglass. 

ITALIAN  COOKER Y-As  the  spit  and  gridiron 
are  specialities  of  the  English  kitchen,  so  the  fry- 
ing-pan is  the  speciality  of  the  Italian  cook;  and,  as 
England  has  taught  the  world  to  roast,  so  Italy  has 
taught  the  world  to  fry.  Frying  is  quite  a  science 
in  that  country  and  a  science  which  every  maid  and 
mistress  studies  with  all  her  might,  for  as  there  is 
no  Italian  dinner  without  its  ante-pasto,  so  there  is 
none  of  any  consequence  without  its  dish  of  fry  or 
fritto,  as  it  is  called  in  Italy.  Meat,  fish,  vegetables, 
all  may  be  fried,  and  generally  meat  and  vegetables, 
or  fish  and  vegetables,  are  fried  together.  What- 
ever the  articles,  they  must  be  fried  in  boiling  fat, 
and  at  a  brisk  fire.  Not  a  moment  must  elapse  be- 
tween the  frying  and  the  serving.  The  smallest  de- 
lay is  ruinous  to  the  success  of  the  dish,  as  it  tends 
to  make  the  fritto  lose  its  crispness,  and  become  flab- 
by. Whilst  the  soup  is  being,  taken,  the  fritto  is 
cooked.  If  need  be,  good  eaters  will  readily  con- 
sent to  a  "wait"  rather  than  endanger  the  full  suc- 
cess of  the  fritto.  OIL  FOR  FRYING — Oil  is  much 
used  in  Italy  for  frying,  especially  for  fish.  But  Ita- 
ly has  the  advantage  of  pure  oils,  which  this  coun- 
try does  not  possess.  Oil,  even  the  best,  has  the 
disadvantage  of  burning  very  easily  and  of  making 
the  fritto  too  dark  in  color,  instead  of  a  rich  golden- 
brown,  which  it  should  be.  FKITTO  MISTO — Every 
kind  of  meat,  vegetables,  and  fish  may  be  fried. 
The  favorite  Italian  fritto,  however,  is  the  mixed 
fritto—  composed  of  veal  cutlets,  calf's  brains  (which 


ITA 

is  quite  equal  to  sweetbread)  and  sliced  artichokes, 
gourds  or  potatoes  cut  in  short  narrow  sticks.  A 
great  secret  of  the  excellence  of  the  Italian  fritto 
is  that  everything  that  is  to  be  fried  is  previously 
soaked  in  a  batter  made  of  different  ingredients, 
which  vary  according  to  what  has  to  be  fried.  For 
an  ordinary  mixed  fritto,  for  instance,  vou  make  a 
batter  composed,  say,  of  a  qnarter  of  a  pound  of 
flour  to  the  yolk  of  one  egg,  a  tea-spoonful  of  vine- 
gar or  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  thirty  grains 
of  fine  oil.  Beat  well  together,  adding  occasionally 
a  little  water  or  beer,  or  white  wine,  just  enough  to 
make  the  batter  liquid.  Then  beat  the  white  of  the 
egg  apart  and  to  a  foam,  and  add  this  foam  to  the 
batter  at  the  very  last  moment,  just  as  you  are  going 
to  fry.  The  calf's  brains  must  be  well  cleaned,  skin- 
ned, and  rinsed  or  boiled  for  a  few  minutes  before 
being  fried,  and  the  same  with  sweetbread;  they 
must  be  then  left  to  cool.  When  cold  they  are  cut 
into  small  pieces,  about  the  size  of  a  large  walnut. 
Soak  them  first  in  a  little  oil,  salt,  and  vinegar.  Then 
dry  then  with  a  clean  cloth  and  soak  in  the  batter, 
from  which  they  are  thrown  into  boiling  fat  or  but- 
ter and  fried  to  a  rich  golden  color.  When  quite 
crisp,  and  of  the  required  color,  take  them  out  of  the 
fat  and  lay  them  on  clean  white  paper  or  a  clean 
cloth,  to  ibsorb  the  fat.  They  should  also  be  served 
on  a  cloth.  Cutlets  only  require  to  be  soaked  in  the 
batter  previous  to  frying.  Vegetables,  whether  ar- 
tichokes, cauliflowers.or  gourds,  are  partly  boiled  in 
salt  and  water  before  being  fried.  Potatoes  arc  bet- 
ter not  previously  boiled,  but  they  are  cut  into  short 
thin  strips  in  order  to  fry  easily.  Artichokes  must 
be  triatmed  of  all  their  outer  tough  leaves,  the  heart 
alone  being  fried;  this  is  cut  into  four  parts  like  an 
orange.  ROMAX  FRY  SHOPS — In  Rome  there  are 
frying  shops  as  close  together  as  public  houses  in 
London, and  there  persons  who  may  not  have  the  nec- 
essaries to  cook  at  home — as  those  who  live  in  a  poor 
lodging-house,  for  instance — can  have  a  good  plate- 
ful of  fritto  for  a  few  pence.  There  is  a  clean  bat- 
ter before  you,  and  the  vegetables  and  meat  prepared 
for  the  pan,  and  the  snowy  white  c  oth  on  which  to 
eat.  You  choose  the  pieces  you  like  best,  and  these 
are  fried  before  your  eyes  with  a  cleanliness  equal  to 
the  silver  gridiron  of  London  restaurants.  These 
fry-shops  are  celebrated  institutions  in  Rome,  and 
in  some  high  born  ladies  and  gentlemen  go  to  sup- 
per on  certain  days  of  the  year.  Saint  Joseph  is  the 
patron  saint  of  Roman  frying  men  and  women.  On 
that  day  the  fry -shops  are  things  to  see.  They  are 
decorated  both  within  and  without  with  white  and 
colored  draperies,  and  flowers,  and  foliage,  and 
flags,  and  banners,  and  pictures,  and  ornaments  of 
every  kind.  Clerical  Josephs  decorate  their  houses 
with  images  of  St.  Joseph  himself.  Liberal  Josephs 
decorate  their  shops  with  pictures  of  Garibaldi, 
whose  name  was  Joseph.  It  will  be  seen,  therefore, 
in  what  repute  the^frying-pan  is  held  in  Italy.  Near- 
ly one  hundred  different  fried  dishes  enter  into  the 
Italian  cuisine,  one-half  being  of  meat,  and  the  other 


THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


349 


ITA 

half  of  vegetables  and  cereals  for  fasting  days.  The 
way  the  Italians  fry  liver,  is  exquisite.  You  require 
for  this  calf's  liver,  butter,  capers,  pine  seeds,  all- 
spices, sugar,  lemon-juice,  vinegar,  flour,  salt,  and 
pepper.  Cut,  say,  10  oz.  of  calf's  liver  into  slices, 
and  fry  half  these  in  butter.  When  fried,  pound 
it  in  a  mortar,  with  a  few  capers,  a  few  pine  seeds, 
allspice,  and  sugar;  then  strain,  and  add  the  juice  of 
a  lemon,  and  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  vinegar.  Put 
the  whole  in  a  hot-water  bath,  or  near  the  fire,  but 
not  on  it.  Flour  the  rest  of  the  sliced  liver,  and  fry- 
in  fresh  butter.  When  fried,  place  the  slices  on  a 
plate,  and  pour  over  them  the  first  part  reduced  to  a 
thick  sauce.  This  will  be  found  to  be  delicious.  To 
make  it  more  palatable  still,  roll  each  slice  of  liver 
round  a  piece  of  bacon  and  a  slice  of  truffle,  and  tie 
or  skewer  the  roll  together.  This  is  easy  to  do  in 
Italy,  where  truffles  are  almost  as  common  as  mush- 
rooms. In  Er.gland  only  the  wealthy  few  can  in- 
dulge in  truffles — and  those  may  not  care  to  eat  fried 
liver,  even  for  breakfast.  Stuffed  with  truffles,  how- 
ever, it  is  not  unfit  for  Royal  stomachs."  FRITTO 
MISTO — (2)  "This  fry  is  an  odd  medley,  and  is  com- 
posed of  the  following  ingredients,  which  must  all 
be  dipped  into  batter,  fried  in  lard,  and  served  in  the 
same  dish:  Ram's  kidneys,  which  have  been  soaked 
in  salt  water,  pieces  of  bread,  tendons  of  veal,  calf's 
brains,  svveatbreads,  rice  croquettes,  pieces  of  cauli- 
flower, egg-plant,  anchovies,  and  artichokes."  FKIT- 
TO  MISTO — (j)  The  ingredients  of  the  mixed  fry  are 
varied  with  the  seasons  or  according  to  taste.  This 
one  has  for  its  components:  lamb  fries,  sweetbreads 
and  egg-plant,  bread -crumbed  and  fried;  calf's 
brains,  calf's  liver  and  cauliflower  dipped  in  batter 
and  fried;  all  dished  together  with  fried  parsley  and 
lemons.  COTEI.ETTE  MILANAISE— "In  an  Italian 
restaurant  we  recently  came  across  a  table  specialty 
which  may  be  recommended  as  an  appetizing  entree. 
We  refer  to  cotelelie  Milatiaise  with  curry  sauce. 
The  ordinary  cotelette  Mi/anaise,  consisting  only  of 
a  veal-chop  or  cutlets  encrusted  with  bread-crumbs 
and  egg,  with  the  traditional  quarter  of  a  lemon  to 
stimulate  the  palate,  is  a  common  dish  enough,  but 
the  addition  of  curry  sauce  gives  it  a  distinct  excel- 
lence." ITALIAN  DISHES—  Le  Ket-tanrant  Ilalien 
makes  a  specialty  of  Italian  dishes,  and  on  its  carte 
figure  prominently  the  names  of  Lasagne,  Rariol  , 
Tagliarini,  Spaghetti  and  Risotto,  besides  the  fam- 
ous timbales  of  Milan,  and  the  filling,  if  not  partic- 
ularly tasty,  polenta,  a  kind  of  porridge  made  of 
maize-flour.  POLENTA — Is  also  made  of  chestnut- 
flour.  "The  food  made  of  the  chestnut  which  is 
most  in  favor  is  the/o/*>«/a.  This  is  made  by  sim- 
ply boiling  the  chestnut-flour  10  or  15  minutes  with 
a  little  salt  to  flavor  it,  taking  care  to  keep  it  con- 
stantly stirred.  This  is  eaten  with  cream,  and  is  said 
to  be  very  healthy  and  nutritious. "  NECCI — "The 
food  called  Need  is  composed  of  chestnut-flour 
formed  into  a  cake,  and  is  made  by  first  mixing  the 
flour  with  cold  water,  and  then  making  cakes  piled 
one  upon  another  and  separated  by  chestnut-leaves 


ITA 

moistened  with  water.  The  whole  mass  is  then 
cooked  over  a  hot  fire,  and  the  cakes  are  taken  off 
one  by  one  when  the  leaves  are  almost  burned,  and 
are  then  eaten  with  cream  and  butter.  ZABBAGLIONE- 
Is  the  name  of  an  Italian  sweet  entretnet  to  be  had  in 
perfectiou  at  the  Hotel  d'ltalie.  It  is  composed  of 
whipped  yolk  of  egg  sweetened,  and  mixed  with 
'Capri'  or  some  other  white  wine,  and  is  served  in  a 
frothy  mixture  in  cups."  POLPETTI — Croquettes  of 
meat  of  any  kind  mixed  with  grated  cheese  stirred 
over  the  fire  with  a  thick  sauce  and  seasonings,  rolled 
and  shaped  when  cold;  breaded  and  fried.  ITALIAN 
MERINGUE — Boiled  icing,  made  of  i  Ib.  sugar  boiled 
to  the  crack  and  6  whites  whipped  very  firm  stirred 
in;  used  to  ice  cakes  and  to  dry  hake  as  "kisses," 
also  to /nix  in  frozen  punch  for  punches  a  la  Romaine. 
ITALIAN  PASTES  —  Those  well  known  even-where 
are  macaroni  and  vermicelli;  others  are  tagliarini, 
spaghetti,  fidelini,  lasagnes,  and  various  small  kinds 
and  shapes;  they  are  all  essentially  of  the  same  sub- 
stance, but  of  different  qualities,  some  being  made 
of  the  best  wheat-flour,  some  with  a  proportion  of 
corn-flour.  ITALIAN  SOUPS — Generally  those  soups 
which  contain  or  are  served  with  some  form  of  these 
pastes,  and  with  grated  cheese  handed  around  sep- 
arately. ITALIAN  RAVIOLIS — Little  turnovers  made 
of  balls  of  chicken  forcemeat  size  of  a  grape,  inclosed 
in  nouilles  paste;  poached  in  water,  placed  in  a  dish 
with  grated  parmesan  and  sauce;  served  on  same 
method  as  a  ffarbure,  with  soup  in  another  tureen, 
to  be  taken  up  and  eaten  with  the  soup.  SARDINIAN 
RAVIOLIS — Instead  of  chicken  forcemeat  they  are 
filled  with  a  paste  made  of  spinach,  eggs,  bread- 
crumbs, cheese,  and  butter.  LASAGNES  A  LA  MI- 
LANAISE— Lasagnes  boiled,  mixed  in  a  sauce  or  ra- 
gout of  gravy,  cheese,  mushrooms,  truffles,  tomato 
sauce,  etc.  NoQUES-Italian- paste  dumplings;  equiv- 
alent to  the  German  kldse — made  of  equal  weights  of 
eggs,  butter,  and  flour  worked  together,  dropped  by 
spoonfuls  in  boiling  water;  eaten  with  grated  cheese 
and  butter,  or  with  soup,  or  finished  as  macaroni, 
etc.,  in  the  oven.  AGNOLOTTIS — Another  variety  of 
rai'iol  x,  made  the  same  except  the  filling  is  of  minced 
cooked  beef  with  cheese  and  fried  onion;  served 
aside  with  soup,  or  in  cheese,  sauce  and  butter  baked. 
GNOCCHIS — Paste  balls  like  noques,  but  differently 
made;  of  5  oz.  flour  in  %  pt.  boiling  water,  table- 
spoonful  butter,  i  oz.  cheese,  3  eggs;  similar  to 
cheese  fritters;  poached,  finished  like  macaroni  and 
cheese ;  baked.  Another  variety  has  pounded  chicken 
meat  mixed  in  the  paste.  TIMBALE  A  LA  MILANAISE- 
A  kind  of  macaroni  raised-pie;  the  macaroni  boiled, 
mixed  w.ilh  truffles,  mushrooms,  red  tongue,  and 
cream  sauce;  baked  in  a  mould  lined  with  short  paste; 
turned  out  whole.  RISOTTO  PIEMONTAISE  —  Rice 
fried  raw  with  onion  in  butter;  boiled  in  broth  suf- 
ficient, with  butter  and  cheese;  served  aside  with 
soup.  HISOTTO  X  APOI.ITAINE — Rice  as  above,  with 
tomato  sau  u,  butter,  cheese,  mushrooms,  etc. ;  served 
alone  or  with  soup.  ITALIAN  PYRAMID — Rings  of 
puff -pa^te  of  decreasing  sizes  baked  separately,  piled 


350 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


ITA 

on  each  other  with  marmalade  spread  betwen ;  orna- 
mented. ITALIAN  CREAM — Yellow  cream-custard 
strongly  flavored  with  cinnamon,  with  \vhipped 
cream  added,  and  gelatine  about  i  oz.  to  each  quart 
to  set  it  in  a  mould.  ITALIAN  PUDDING — A  deep 
dish  lined  with  puff-paste,  layer  of  half-cooked 
slices  of  apples  on  the  bottom;  sugar  and  wine; 
bread-custard  to  fill  up;  baked.  (See  Flan.)  ITAL- 
IAN STEAMED  PUDDING —  Panada  of  bread-crumbs 
in  boiling  milk  mixed  with  sugar,  yolks,  va- 
nilla, raisins,  whipped  whites;  it  rises  like  a  souffl£ 
when  steamed;  to  be  served  immediately,  with  saba- 
yon  (zabbaglione').  OTHER  ITALIAN  DISHES — Ices, 
salads,  and  sauces,  may  be  found  in  great  numbers 
in  all  cookbook  directions;  they  may  be  known  by 
the  appellations  Af edicts  (Catherine  de  Medicis  in- 
troduced Italian  cookery  into  France),  Napolitaine 
Romaine,  Sicilienue,  and  all  such  allusions  to  Italian 
cities.  ITALIAN  ANTE-PASTO — Signifies  the  entire 
list  of  appetizers  or  cold  liors  d'tcuvres.  See  also 
Ices,  Granito,  Grissini  Bread,  Macaroni. 

ITALIAN  WAREHOUSE— "The  Italian  ware- 
house, first  established  in  London  in  the  reign  of 
Charles  II,  is  an  institution  peculiar  to  the  British 
Metropolis.  In  the  last  century,  when  a  gentleman 
went  to  Italy,  he  generally  resided  there  for  at  least 
six  months.  \Vhen  he  returned  and  settled  down  in 
his  grand  town  mansion,  he  was  not  satisfied  with 
having  a  French  cook;  he  sighed  for  the  macaroni 
and  vermicelli,  the  Parmesan  cheese,  the  polenta,  the 
morta-della  di  Bologna,  the  Lacrima  Christi,  and 
the  chianti,  and  especially  the  pure  olive-oil  of  Flo- 
rence and  Lucca.  It  was  to  supply  his  lordship  or 
his  honor  with  such  articles  that  the  Italian  ware- 
houses were  founded  and  grew  apace.  The  Italian 
warehousemen  of  the  past,  however,  dealt  in  other 
commodities  besides  wine  and  oil,  macaroni  and 
cheese.  They  were  as  useful  to  my  lady  as  to  my 
lord;  they  imported  from  Italy  lute-strings — a  cor- 
ruption of  lustri>ii—a.n&  paduasoys;  the  rich  cut  vel- 
vets of  Genoa;  the  stiff  black  silks  and  splendid  lace 
-a  legacy  from  the  Spanish  domination-from  Milan, 
with  beads  from  Venice,  and  gloves  and  coral  from 
Naples."  The  Italian  warehouse  may  be  found  in 
most  of  the  large  cities  of  the  United  States,  and 
there  the  steward  finds  his  foreign  cheeses  and  all 
such  specialties  as  are  raised  above  the  ordinary 
public  demand  by  their  prices. 

ITALIENNE  SAUCE— Brown  or  white  sauce 
with  wine,  shallots,  mushrooms,  etc.  (See  Sauces.) 

J. 

JACKET  KETTLES— Double-bottomed  kettles 
or  boilers,  steam  from  the  engine-boiler  is  let  into 
the  space  between  the  bottoms  and  rapid  boiling  is 
the  result.  Used  for  soup  stock  boilers,  ham  boilers, 
vegetable  boilers  and  for  laundry  purposes.. 

JAM — Fruit  stewed  down  with  sugar;  applied 
to  mashed  fruit.  The  fruit  stewed  down  without 
breaking  up  the  shape  is  called  preserves.  All 


fruits  are  reduced  to  jam  except  the  orange  which 
has  a  name  to  itself;  orange  jam  is  called  marmalade. 
JAM  TARTLETS — (/)-Patty  pans  lined  with  puff- 
paste,  a  spoonful  of  jam  in  each;  baked.  (2-)Patty 
cases  or  vol  au  vents,  cut  out  of  puff-paste  with  a 
center  to  be  taken  out  and  the  vacancy  filled  with  jam 
after  baking.  JAM  ROLY-POLY— A  pudding  made  of 
a  sheet  of  short  paste  or  biscuit- dough  spread  over 
with  jam,  rolled  up  long,  steamed  or  boiled  in  a 
cloth.  IMITATION  JAM — "Recently  there  appared  a 
cutting  from  an  American  paper  explaining  what  a 
certain  American  firm  understood  by  blackberry  jam ! 
There  is  a  company  here  that  runs  them  close  in  the 
matter  of  sharpness.  You  know  that  moss  or  dried 
grass,  with  which  Chinese  exporters  pack  up  their 
fragile  wares.  It  is  glutinous  when  boiled,  and 
costs  nothing.  Your  Chinese  importer  will  give  it 
to  you  if  you  will  cart  it  off  his  premises.  Add  glu- 
cose, flavoring  essence,  and  little  dye,  and  there  you 
are,  with  first-rate  raspberry  jam;  prime  cost,  one 
centime  a  pot,  to  be  retailed  at  sixpence  a  pound." 
SOME  GENUINE  JAM — The  scarcity  of  raspberries 
in  the  fruiterers'  shops  and  on  the  huckster's  bar- 
rows is  accounted  for  by  the  insatiable  demand  of 
the  jam  manufacturers,  who  buy  all  they  can  get  of 
this  delicious  fruit.  In  the  Borough  market  recent- 
ly Messrs of  Stratford,  took  a  "parcel"  of 

20  tons  at  $95  per  ton. 

JAMBALAYA — Southern  or  Creole  dish  made  in 
two  or  three  different  ways.  (/)-Fried  chicken 
cooked  and  placed  in  a  dish  is  bordered  with  rice 
stewed  with  tomatoes,  onion,  butter,  spoonful  of 
sugar,  salt  and  pepper,  till  the  rice  is  tender  and  all 
stiff  enough  for  a  spoon  to  stand  in  it.  About  the 
same  is  Rissoto  with  chicken.  (See  Ital  an  cookery.) 
(2)-American  planter's  way.  Ham  cut  in  dice,  light- 
ly fried  with  butter  and  onion ;  rice  and  water  added 
and  red  pepper,  and  all  stewed  together  till  i  Ice  is 
done  and  dry,  the  pieces  of  ham  being  of  course 
mingled  in  the  rice.  (j)-Florida  Spanish.  Pieces 
of  fish,  ham,  onion,  fried  together;  tomatoes,  water 
and  seasonings  added;  rice  boiled  in  it  sufficient  to 
nearly  dry  it  up. 

JAMBON  (Fr.)— Ham.  JAMBON  DE  PORC— Pork 
ham.  JAMBON  D'  OURS — Bear  ham. 

JAMBON,  SAUCE— Brown  sauce  with  shred 
ham,  shallots,  butter,  wine,  cayenne. 

JAPANESE  COOKERY— The  natives  eat  little 
flesh.  Only  since  the  advent  of  foreigners  have 
they  learned  to  eat  any  at  all.  Their  sustenance  is 
drawn  mostly  from  rice,  sweet  potatoes,  fish  and  a 
few  vegetables,  such  as  a  great  radish  called  daikan. 
The  lesser  articles  are  barley,  wheat,  green  corn, 
oranges,  grapes,  figs  and  persimmons.  They 
make  a  soup  of  rice,  small  pieces  of  dough,  a  little 
sea-weed,  some  snails  and  sharks'  fins.  METHOD 
OF  FRYING  —  In  the  country  towns  tell  them 
to  cook  you  a  chicken;  you  hear  a  squawking 
in  the  house,  and  in  just  five  minutes  the  bird  is  be- 
fore you,  all  cooked.  It  is  done  in  this  wise:  Upon 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


351 


JAP 

a  charcoal  fire  are  placed  thin  copper  pans,  which 
are  almost  instantly  heated  to  a  white  heat;  oil  is 
dropped  in,  the  chicken  on  top,  and  it  is  done.  THE 
JAPANESE  MISOSHIRU  —  In  the  eating-houses  of 
Tokio,  if  he  can  obtain  the  concession  of  a  spoon 
instead  of  being  obliged  to  drink  his  soup  out  of  the 
bowl  like  tea,  as  the  natives  do,  the  adventurous 
foreigner  will  find  that  he  has  in  the  first  dish  set 
before  him  a  savory  compound  called  misoshirn. 
This  is  made  from  miso,  a  fermented  mixture  of  soy, 
beans,  wheat,  and  salt.  It  has  a  gamey  flavor  all 
its  own.  He  will  then  attack  with  pleasure  or  sur- 
prise the  many  little  plats  on  his  tray,  turning  for 
relief  from  the  sweetened  ivliite  beans,  mixed  with 
Ka~jjatake,  a  kind  of  mushroom  grown  in  the  shad- 
ows of  rocky  boulders,  and  the  delicious  lobster 
pudding  or  cold  omelet  and  other  trifles  included 
under  the  head  of  Kuchitori,  to  the  Hachimono, 
which  may  happen  to  be  a  piece  of  sole  stewed  in 
sov,  or  a  block  of  salmon  with  lobster  and  shredded 
cucumber.  Then  for  a  change  he  may,  with  the 
pair  of  wooden  chop-sticks  which  are  laid  before 
him  on  a  bamboo  tray,  divert  himself  with  trying 
to  pick  out  of  a  small  china  cup,  made  without  a 
handle,  the  brown  soy-colored  beans  and  strips  of 
Kikurage,  or  ear-shaped  mushrooms.  Boiled  rice 
is  served  in  a  separate  bowl.  Another  substantial 
dish,  Wanmori,  consists  of  meat  or  fish  and  vege- 
tables, possibly,  for  instance,  a  piece  of  fresh 
salmon  and  a  slice  of  vegetable  marrow  with 
pieces  of  soaked  Fit,  a  kind  of  biscuit  made 
from  the  glutinous  part  of  wheat  flour.  The 
gravy  in  which  these  pieces  de  resistance  are 
floating  is  thickened  with  a  transparent,  starchy 
substance,  obtained  from  the  root  of  a  climbing 
plant  (Pueraria  Thunbergiana),  called  by  the  Japan- 
ese Kuzu.  For  salad  there  are  thin  slices  of  cu- 
cumber flavored  with  scraped  shreds  of  dried  bonito, 
a  fish  much  in  favor  on  the  Pacific  coasts,  the  cu- 
cumber being  dressed  with  vinegar  and  sugar,  but 
without  oil.  One  other  relish  must  be  noticed,  the 
sliced  root  of  the  burdock  salted  and  preserved  in 
miso.  A  sweet  kind  of  sake,  described  as  Japanese 
wine,  is  the  proper  beverage  at  the  meal.  After 
dinner  Japanese  green  tea  may  be  ordered,  or,  upon 
special  application,  a  cup  of  fragrant  cherry-flower 
tea.  To  prepare  this  drink  half  a  dozen  dried  blos- 
soms and  buds  of  the  cherry  flower  are  placed,  with 
a  pinch  of  salt,  in  a  tea-cup,  and  hot,  but  not  boil- 
ing, water  poured  on  them.  The  infusion  is  slightly 
and  agreeably  aromatic. 

JAPANESE  CROSNES— See  Crosnes.  "  Cros- 
nes  Japonaise,  the  new  vegetables,  are  now  to  be 
seen  and  bought  in  every  green-grocer's  and  deli- 
cacy-warehouse in  Paris,  and  seem  to  be  very  pop- 
ular. The  growers  supply  the  trade  with  printed 
cards  giving  very  full  instructions  as  to  the  different 
ways  of  cooking  the  vegetables." 

JAPANESE  PLUM— A  variety  of  plum  recently 
acclimatized  in  Florida  and  suited  to  the  climate. 
'It  is  eaten  raw,  and  made  into  preserves. 


JEL 

JAPANESE  PERSIMMON  — A  newly  intro- 
duced fruit  of  the  southern  Gulf  states  and  Cali- 
fornia. It  is  in  apperance  much  like  a  tomato.  It 
must  be  perfectly  ripe  when  picked,  otherwise  the 
flavor  is  not  agreeable;  this  renders  it  unsuitable  to 
ship  to  distant  markets.  It  can  be  dried,  however, 
like  a  fig,  which  it  resembles  in  its  dried  state,  and 
has  a  very  meaty,  pleasant  taste. 

JAPANESE  SALAD— Salade  Japonaise.  See 
Salads, 

JAPAN  PEA— A  prolific  sort  of  field  pea  culti- 
vated in  the  western  states. 

JAPANESE  PAPER  NAPKINS— Paper  nap- 
kins, either  plain  or  bordered  or  figured,  can  be 
bought  at  the  notion  stores  at  prices  ranging  from 
50  cents  to  $1.00  per  100.  They  are  useful  for  pic- 
nic and  festival  purposes,  for  large  catering  affairs 
and  out-door  spreads.  At  one  of  the  large  catering 
undertakings  mentioned  in  the  third  division  of  this 
book  the  contractors  provided  2,000  linen  napkins; 
a  needless  expense,  for  they  had  to  resort  to  paper 
napkins  after  all  on  account  of  the  want  of  time  for 
laundrying  the  first  supply. 

JARDINIER  (Fr.)— Gardener. 

JARDINIF.RE  (Fr.)— Mixed  vegetables;  a  gar- 
den stand  for  plants  or  flowers.  SALADE  JARDI- 
NIERE— Salad  of  mixed  vegetables.  CONSOMME  A 
LA  JARDINIERE — Clear  soup  with  various  vegetab- 
les cut  into  small  fancy  shapes.  GARNISH  A  LA 
JARDINIERE— Carrots  and  turnips  cut  in  shapes  like 
large  peas,  with  a  scoop  made  for  the  purpose, 
string  beans,  cauliflower,  green  peas,  asparagus 
tops  or  any  vegetables,  all  of  corresponding  small 
size,  cooked  in  seasoned  broth,  then  tossed  in  glaze 
or  meat  gravy.  DISHES  A  LA  JARDINIERE — All 
dishes  of  meat  which  are  served  up  with  the  jardi- 
niere garnish  around  them  or  in  the  center. 

JARDINIERE  CUTTERS  — There  are  small 
machines  to  be  bought  which  rapidly  stamp  out 
patterns  from  slices  of  vegetables  for  jardiniere 
garnish  and  soups. 

JAUiSTE  MANGE— Like  blanc-mange,  but  made 
yellow  with  yolk  of  egg  or  saffron ;  a  custard  set 
with  gelatine. 

JELLY — Table  jellies  are  made  of  gelatine,  sugar, 
flavorings,  and  either  water  and  fruit  juice  or  water 
and  wine.  Rule:  i  qt.  water  or  juice,  i%  oz.  gela- 
tine, 2  lemons,  8  oz.  sugar,  all  boiled  together,  then 
strained.  By  adding  white  of  eggs  before  boiling 
it  can  be  made  brilliantly  clear  and  can  be  colored 
to  any  desired  tint.  Set  in  moulds  in  a  cold  place 
until  firm  and  solid,  then  turned  out  on  a  dish  cov  - 
ered  with  a  folded  napkin.  GELEE  DE  PRAISES — 
Strawberry  jelly  colored  red  with  whole  strawber- 
ries in  it.  GELEE  DE  MURES  SAUVAGES  A  LA 
CREME — A  border  mould  of  blackberry -jelly,  with 
whipped  cream  in  the  center.  GELEE  A  L'AXANAS 
— Pineapple  jelly,  with  pieces  of  pineapple  in  it. 
GELEE  AU  Jus  DE  GRENADES — Pomegranate  jelly. 


352 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


JEL 

GELEE  A  LA  MACEDOINE  DE  FRUITS— Maraschino 
flavored  jelly  with  whole  fruits  in  it.  GELEE  A  LA 
CHARTREUSE-Jelly  flavored  with  chartreuse  liqueur. 
GELEE  DE  DANTZIC  AUX  PRAISES— Cherry- brant! y 
jelly  with  whole  strawberries.  GELEE  DE  MARAS- 
QUIN  AUX  ABRICOTS  —  Maraschino  jelly  with 
halves  of  apricots  in  it.  GELEE  AU  CURACAO— 
Curacao  jelly.  GELEE  A  LA  PANACHEE— A  mould 
of  two  or  more  colors  of  jelly  in  layers;  ribbon  jelly. 
GELEE  AUX  VIOLETTES  PRINTANIERES— Jelly  fla- 
vored with  an  infusion  of  spring  violet-flowers  in 
syrup;  orange -flowers  are  used  the  same  way. 
GELEE  A  LA  BACCHANTE — Green  jelly  made  with 
the  juice  of  green  grapes  and  spinach,  sugar  and 
champagne.  GELEE  A  LA  RUSSE— Jelly  whipped  to 
a  froth  while  cooling  on  ice,  then  moulded.  GELEE 
MOUSSEUSE  A  L'EAU  DE  VIE — Whipped  jelly  with 
brandy.  GELEE  FOUETTEE  AUX  FRUIT*— Whipped 
jelly  with  maraschino  and  small  fruits.  WINE  JELLY 
WITH  WHIPPED  CREAM — A  very  acceptable  com- 
bination of  gelatine  jelly  made  with  one-third  sherry 
or  any  good  wine;  served  in  saucer  of  whipped 
cream,  or  in  a  whole  mould  with  whipped  cream 


JELLY  MOULD, 

And  for  puddings,  aspics,  creams,  or  ices. 

around  it.  BORDER  JELLIES  —  Border  moulds  are 
made;  the  outer  rim  to  be  filled  with  jelly  and  turned 
out  when  set,  the  well  in  the  center  of  the  jelly  filled 
with  whipped  cream  and  perhaps  strawberries  and 
other  such  additions.  JELLY  WITH  ICE  CREAM— 
Same  plan  as  with  whipped  cream  and  best  in  hot 
weather.  GELEES  VARIEES— All  jellies  named  for 
some  fruit  or  liqueur  are  either  made  with  a  propor- 
tion of  the  juice  of  the  fruit,  or  with  pieces  or  slices 
set  around  the  mould;  or  are  flavored'  with  the 
liqueurs,  as  benedictine,  kummel,  anisette,  kirsch- 
wasser,  etc.  GELEE  A  LA  PARisiENNE-Fancy  form ; 
specialty.  Two  jellies,  one  colored  pink  and  flavored 
with  strawberry;  other  uncolored,  flavored  with 
kirschwasser;  both  portions  whipped  on  ice,  and  be- 
fore set  filled  into  the  mould  in  alternate  layers  or 
portions;  turned  out  on  ornamental  stand  of  candy. 
GLASSES  OF  CHAMPAGNE — Fancy  form;  specialty. 
Clear,  bright  jelly  filled  in  glasses  in  liquid  state, 
whipped  jelly  on  top;  made  cold.  GLASSES  OF  ALE- 
Fancy  form ;  specialty.  Clear,  brown  jelly  vanilla- 
flavored,  filled  in  slender  ale-glasses  in  liquid  state, 
more  jelly  whipped  to  foam  and  piled  on  top. 


JEL 

SOUFFLE  JELLIES — Same  plan  as  preceding,  but  red 
wine- jelly  set  solid  an  inch  deep  in  a  pan;  foam  of 
whipped  jelly  and  white  of  egg  flavored  with  maras- 
chino spread  an  inch  deep  on  top  when  the  first  is  set; 
all  made  very  cold,  cut  out  in  blocks  and  served  in 
glass-plates.  INDIVIDUAL jELLiEs-There  are  moulds 
of  all  sorts  and  patterns  to  set  jellies  in,  one  mould 
to  be  served  to  each  person.  TRI-COLORED  JEI.LIES- 
Set  in  small  moulds,  three  kinds  and  colors  of  jelly 
or  two  je.lies  and  one  blanc  mange  or  janne  miuige; 
taken  out  of  the  moulds,  cut  in  three  downwards, 
the  sections  wetted  with  melted  jelly,  replaced  in  the 
moulds,  one  section  of  each  color  in  each  mould. 
(See  Syllabub,  Aspic,  Pain  de  Peches.) 

JELLIES,  FRUIT— The  other  class  are  the  fruit- 
jellies,  made  and  eaten  as  preserves.  Rule:  One 
pound  sugar  to  each  pint  of  expressed  fruit- juice, 
boiled  together  till  the  fruit  sets  as  jelly,  when  im- 
mersed in  cold  water  or  set  on  ice  to  try.  Used  to 
eat  with  meat,  as  currant-jelly  with  mutton  and  ven- 
ison, cranberry-jelly  with  turkey,  and  to  spread  in 
jelly-cakes,  fill  tarts,  etc. 

JELLIES,  IMITATIOX-Made  of  (/)  i  pt.  water, 
J^  oz.  pulverized  alum,  boiled  a  minute  or  two,  4  Ibs. 
white  sugar,  boiled  a  short  time,  strained,  colored 
variously,  flavored  with  oils  or  essences  to  imitate 
fruit  jellies.  (2)  3%  Ibs.  commonest  gelatine  in  2^ 
gals,  water  with  30  Ibs.  sugar,  boiled  until  gelatine 
is  all  dissolved,  colored  as  desired,  %  oz.  tartaric 
acid  iidt'ed,  taken  from  the  fire,  dissolved,  flavored, 
allowed  to  get  cold  in  pails  or  glasses  Makes  50  Ibs. 
Glucose  also  is  largely  used  in  making  bogus  jellies, 
and  the  jams  and  preserves  of  the  same  class  are 
made  fruity  with  shredded  turnips  boiled  in  pine- 
apple-flavored glucose.  "A  year  or  two  since  a  man 
found  himself  with  a  large  crop  of  red  currants, 
and  he  manufactured  them  into  "jam,"  or  "jelly," 
using  the  best  of  sugar,  and  producing  a  most  ex- 
cellent article.  He  found  the  hotels  supplied  with  a 
heap,  impure  article,  manufactured  from  glucose 
and  acids  and  colored  to  resemble  somewhat  in  color 
and  taste  currant  jelly,  which  could  be  procured  at 
retail  even  lower  tban  he  could  afford  his  at  whole- 
sale. The  result  was  the  enterprising  man  had  a 
large  quantity  left  on  hand.  But  we  haven't  heard 
of  his  manufacturing  any  more  'pure  currant  jelly' 
for  market.  A  few  years  since  a  gentleman  in  Union 
village  started  the  manufacture  of  apple-jelly,  and 
he  produced  a  very  pure  and  delicious  article,  which 
should  have  commanded  a  ready  sale  at  hotels-', 
bakeries  and  in  families,  for  the  table  and  for  pies, 
tarts,  etc.  But  the  business  did  not  prosper,  we 
think.  At  all  events  it  was  suspended.  An  in- 
ferior article,  made  up  largely  of  adulterations, 
which  'answered  the  purpose,'  took  the  trade."  BO- 
GUS JELLIES — An  American  physician  toils  how  the 
cheap  jellies  which  some  bakers  put  into  their  tarts 
and  jelly  cakes  are  made,  as  follows:  Take  4  qts. 
water  and  y,  Ib.  alum;  boil  2  minutes,  add  32  Ibs.  of 
white  sugar;  boil  5  minutes  longer,  strain  while  it 
is  warm  (and  the  hotter  it  is  strained  the  easier  > 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


353 


JEL 

through  a  coarse  towel;  when  nearly  cold,  add  2  ozs. 
of  acetic  acid,  and  %  Ib.  of  real  currant  jelly- 
When  cool,  pack  it  in  tumblers.  If  you  de- 
sire a  vanilla  jelly,  add  in  place  of  currant  jam  four 
25 -cent  bottles  of  extract  of  vanilla,  and  stir  when 
nearly  cold.  If  you  desire  strawberry  jam,  prepare 
the  alum  and  sugar  as  before,  and  add  l/z  pt.  of 
essence  of  strawberry.  Or  if  lemon  is  desired,  add 
essence  of  lemon.  You  can  make  what  you  like  with 
these  proportions  of  alum  and  sugar.  "  This  is  th 
way  to  make  the  grocers'  jelly  and  jam  that  are 
placed  in  the  confectioneries  and  bakeries." 

JELLY  CAKE— Two,  three  or  more  thin  sheets 
of  genoise  or  pound  or  other  cake  spread  with  jelly 
and  placed  one  upon  another.  JELLY  SLICES — 
Several  fancy  forms  of  sliced  jelly  cake  iced  or  or- 
namented. JELLY  PIE,  SAVORY — Deep  dish  with 
hard  boiled  eggs  in  bottom  and  slices  of  fowl,  etc., 
seasoned  with  crust  on  top,  filled  with  meat  jelly ; 
eaten  cold.  JELLY  PIE,  SWEET — Fruit  jelly  and 
custard  mixed  together;  baked  in  a  crust.  JELLY 
PUDDING — A  bread  custard  or  corn-starch  custard 
baked,  spread  over  with  jelly,  and  meringued;  same 
as  queen  pudding  and  Oswego  pudding.  JELLY 
ROLL— Thin  sheets  of  sponge  cake  spread  with  jelly, 
rolled  up,  wetted  with  syrup,  rolled  in  sugar. 

JERSEY  PUDDING— Boiled  pudding,  made  of 
2  oz.  ground  rice,  i  oz.  flour,  2  oz  sugar,  4  oz.  butter; 
all  worked  together;  2  oz.  chopped  raisins,  grated 
lemon-rind,  3  eggs,  2  spoons  milk;  well  mixed; 
boiled  in  a  mould  3  hours;  lemon  sauce, 

JERSEY  WONDERS,  OR  CAKES— Crullers; 
a  rich  and  crisp  sort  of  doughnuts  not  made  with 
yeast,  not  very  light;  in  the  form  of  strips  tied  up  in 
a  knot  made  of  (/)  One  pound  sugar,  %  Ib.  butter,  6 
eggs,  %  pt.  milk,  2  teaspoons  baking  powder,  flour 
to  make  dough  of  it;  (2)  Another  less  rich,  of  6  oz. 
sugar,  6  oz.  butter,  Seggs,  a  glass  of  brandy,  flavor- 
ing extracts,  2  Ibs.  flour;  made  into  dough;  cut  in 
strips,  or  shapes,  or  rings;  fried  in  hot  lard. 

JEWISH  COOKERY— While  the  Jews  do  not 
excel  in  high-class  cookery,  perhaps  on  account  of 
their  restrictions  in  regard  to  materials,  what  they 
have  is  essentially  good  and  of  a  wholesome  char- 
acter. The  religion  of  the  Jews  provides  that  its 
followers  shall  observe  certain  customs,  amongst 
which  those  relating  to  foods  are  particularly  string- 
ent and  have  evidently  been  drawn  up  with  extreme 
care.  Diseased  materials,  meals  which  cannot  be 
easily  digested,  or  which  are  liable  to  be  diseased, 
such  as  veal  and  pork,  are  discountenanced.  The 
meat  must  moreover  be  thoroughly  cleansed,  and 
'  fish  is  strongly  recommended  as  an  adjunct  to  a  gen- 
erous feast  of  vegetables  and  fruit.  At  least  once  a 
year  the  subject  of  Jewish  cookery  and  its  peculiar 
restrictions  is  brought  to  the  consideration  of  the 
stewards  or  caterers  of  the  generality  of  hotels  on 
the  approach  of  the  Jewish  Feast  of  the  Passover, 
which  partakes  of  the  nature  of  a  fast  as  well  as  a 
feast,  or  a  fast  before  the  feast,  on  account  of  the  re- 


JEW 

striction  in  the  case  of  the  bread  and  pastry  which 
may  be  eaten  at  that  time,  and  it  becomes  embar- 
rassing when  perhaps  a  Jewish  rabbi  and  members 
of  his  congregation  live  in  the  hotel  if  their  partic- 
ular requirements  at  that  season  cannot  be  provided 
for  want  of  the  requisite  knowledge.  Passover- 
week,  the  great  feast  held  by  the  Jews  all  over  the 
world  to  commemorate  their  deliverance  from  the 
land  of  bondage  5>ooo  years  ago,  occurs  in  the  spring, 
near  the  time  of  the  Christian  Easter,  generally  be- 
fore it.  The  law  of  Moses  forbids  them  to  do  any 
servile  work  during  that  week.  The  reform  Jews 
hold  high  festival  only  on  the  first  and  last  days; 
orthodox  Jews  observe  four  days.  On  the  other 
days  servile  work  may  be  done;  but  all  Jews 
must  abstain  from  eating  leavened  bread.  Pastry 
containing  flour  is  denied  them,  but  they  substitute 
it  with  potato  meal,  and  they  are  prohibited  from 
drinking  malt  liquors  or  spirits  which  are  made 
from  grain.  On  the  eve  of  the  passover  they  hold 
solemn  religious  services,  after  this  comes  the  great 
feast,  and  such  is  the  lavishness  of  the  Jews  at  this 
season  they  lay  their  tables  with  all  the  delicacies 
their  religion  allows  them;  and  all  Jews,  whether 
mas.ter  or  servant,  rich  employer  or  poor  menial, 
sit  at  the  same  table  and  pai take  of  the  same  fare. 
This  is  to  remind  them  that  in  Egypt  they  were  all 
slaves  and  equal.  EMBLEMATIC  BASIN — Among 
other  curious  observances  one  consists  in  the  head 
of  the  family  having  set  before  him  a  dish  contain- 
ing a  roasted  shankbone  of  a  lamb,  a  large  stick  of 
horse-radish  with  the  top  on,  a  bunch  of  chervil, 
mustard  and  cress,  a  roasted  egg,  almonds,  cinna- 
mon, raisins,  smashed  up  together  and  pulverized 
in  a  species  of  mortar.  This  is  an  important  rite. 
The  shank  of  the  lamb  symbolizes  the  Passover 
lamb;  the  roasted  egg  commemorates  the  festival 
egg;  the  bitter  herbs  recall  the  bitter  lives  of  the 
Israelites  in  Egypt;  and  the  bruised  rasins,  almonds 
and  wine  represent  the  mortar  which  their  ancestors 
used  in  making  bricks  for  the  Pharaohs.  JEWISH 
BUTCHER'S  MEAT — An  extra  supply  of  kosher  meat 
is  required  at  the  Passover  season,  and  the  Jewish 
butchers'  shops  look  like  our  butchers'  shops  at 
Christmas,  THE  SHOCHET — The  man  who  kills 
the  animals  is  called  a  shochet  /  he  puts  his  seal  on 
every  animal  that  is  kosher  (pure),  but  if  the  least 
spot  or  blemish  is  discovered — although  it  does  not 
in  the  least  detract  from  the  quality  of  the  meat  — 
the  official  seal  is  withheld,  and  the  "unclean"  ar- 
ticles must  be  consumed  by  Gentiles.  As  is  known 
generally,  the  Jews  are  forbidden  to  use  the  blood 
of  any  meat,  .and  very  particular  methods  are  em- 
ployed at  the  slaughtering  of  kosher  animals  to  pre- 
vent any  blood  remaining  in  the  carcase.  Shell-fish 
were  once  forbidden  to  the  Jews;  pork  is  forbidden 
alike  to  Jew  and  Mohammedan.  PASSOVER  Soup- 
Beef  soup  with  vegetables  and  motsa  balls,  like 
quenelles,  noques,  or  klose.  Made  or  4  Ibs.  beef 
and  a  shin  bone  and  calf's  foot,  carrots,  turnips, 
celery,  fried  onions,  sweet  herbs,  pepper,  salt,  sim. 


854 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


JEW 

mered  S  hours,  strained,  freed  from  fat.  MOTSA 
BALLS — Cracker  dust  S  oz.,  suet  2  oz.,  eggs  4,  salt, 
pepper,  ginger,  nutmeg.  Worked  up  to  a  paste, 
made  in  halls,  boiled  in  the  soup.  JEWISH  STEWED 
FISH — Served  cold.  Sliced  onions  are  simmered 
till  done  in  water,  with  butter,  pepper  and  salt, 
pieces  of  fish  on  top  of  the  onions,  covered  and 
stewed  till  done.  Liquor  strained  off,  juice  of  2 
lemons,  and  3  beaten  yolks  mixed  in,  and  heated  till 
thickened  custard-like  without  quite  boiling;  poured 
over  the  fish  in  a  dish;  parsley.  JEWISH  FRIED 
FISH — One  of  the  great  delicacies  of  the  Je\vi-h 
festival  season  is  fried  fish.  Where  the  Jewish  com- 
munity is  sufficiently  numerous  to  support  a  fried 
fish  shop  but  little  fish  is  cooked  in  private  houses, 
but  these  shops  supply  all,  making  a  specialty  of 
the  trade  of  frying,  like  the  Roman  fry-shops  or 
the  Parisian  rotisieries,  or  meat  roasters  for  the  pub- 
lic. One  such  shop  in  Middlesex  street,  London, 
has  been  established  over  200 years.  Salmon,  hali- 
but and  soles  are  the  kinds  of  fish  preferred,  and 
enormous  quantities  are  sold.  From  these  fry-shops 
the  cooked  fish  is  sent  to  the  residences  of  the 
wealthy  Jews,  and  not  only  that,  but  to  the  hospitals 
for  Jewish  patients  and  to  the  prisons  for  Jewish  de- 
linquents. How  IT  is  COOKED — After  being  cut 
into  pieces,  the  fish  is  dropped  in  a  basinful  of  bat- 
tered eggs,  then  coated  with  motsa  meal  made  of 
crushed  Passover  cake  and  then  fried  in  salad  oil. 
This  system  of  cooking  in  oil  is  not  an  original  habit 
of  the  Jews.  They  carried  it  with  them  from  Spain 
after  the  Inquisition.  They  seldom  eat  fried  fish  hot, 
they  prefer  it  cold.  JEWISH  SMOKED  MEAT — Is  pre- 
pared by  the  Jewish  butchers  and  can  be  bought  of 
them.  Is  cooked  by  parboiling,  then  taking  up, 
skimming  the  liquor  and  cooling  it,  and  putting 
back  the  meat  and  gently  steaming  till  quite  tender; 
served  with  vegetables.  CHORISSA — Jewish  sau- 
sage; is  prepared  by  the  Jewish  butchers;  is  boiled 
and  braised,  served  with  rice.  PASSOVER  FRIT- 
TERS—Motsa  meal  (cracker  dust)  eggs  and  little  su- 
gar worked  to  a  stiff  batter,  fried  by  spoonfuls  in 
hot  oil.  Eaten  with  syrup  or  sugar.  JEWISH  AP- 
PLE FRITTERS — Same  as  the  preceding  with  chop- 
ped apples  in  the  batter.  JEWISH  ALMOND  PUD- 
DING— Sort  of  almond  souffle,  made  of  i  Ib.  almonds 
crushed,  2  oz.  bitter  almonds,  i  Ib.  powdered  sugar, 
14  eggs,  6  yolks  more,  3  tablespoons  orange  flower 
water.  The  eggs,  water  and  sugar  beaten  together 
20  minutes,  same  as  sponge  cake,  the  powdered  al- 
monds added  instead  of  the  flour  which  would  be  in 
sponge  cake;  baked.  JEWISH  MOTSA  PUDDING — 
About  a  pound  of  Passover  cakes  (water  crackers) 
soaked  in  water,  squeezed,  made  up  into  a  plum 
pudding  with  the  usual  fruit  and  suet,  either  boiled 
or  baked.  PASSOVER  ROCK  CAKES — Made  of  %  Ib. 
butter,  %  Ib.  sugar,  %  Ib.  each  .Ifotsa  meal  (meal  of 
crushed  water-crackers)  and  currants,  2  oz.  ground 
almonds,  4  eggs.  Worked  up  to  cake  dough  with 
more  meal  if  necessary;  rough  lumps  like  rocks 
dropped  on  pans,  stuck  over  with  blanched  almonds; 


JOH 

baked.  JEWISH  PASSOVER  CAKE  OR  MOTSA — There 
is  not  much  taste  in  a  Passover  cake,  huge  pvra- 
inids  of  which  are  piled  up  in  the  Jewish  bakers' 
and  grocers'  shops.  There  is  in  Amsterdam  a  fac- 
torv  engaged  in  the  production  on  a  large  scale  of 
passover  or  unleavened  bread.  Although  the  con- 
sumption does  not  last  more  than  a  week,  the  fac 
tory  is  busy  from  the  end  of  November  or  the  be- 
ginning of  December  till  Eastertide.  A  large  por- 
tion of  the  goods  is  exported  to  other  countries. 
The  motsa  consists  of  a  large  round  thin  cake  about 
15  inches  in  diameter,  made  simply  out  of  flour  and 
water  well  kneaded,  and  baked  to  crispness;  it  must 
not  contain  yeast,  powder,  shortening,  nor  any  rais- 
ing ingredient.  There  are  two  varieties;  the  mot  fas 
are  larger  than  pancakes,  and  thin  as  wafers.  Great 
precaution  is  taken  to  obtain  the  proper  sort  of  flour. 
The  authorities  of  the  different  synagogues  com- 
bine on  this  occasion,  get  the  flour  especially  ground, 
and  license  men  to  sell  it.  The  price  is  specially 
put  in  order  to  have  a  surplus  for  the  poor.  THE 
MITZVEHS  —  Are  thicker.  Passover  cakeV  eaten 
on  the  first  two  nights  of  the  festival.  Thev  are 
thick  enough  to  be  split  open  and  toasted,  or  soaked 
in  milk  and  fried.  MOTSA  MEAL-It  will  be  observed 
that  the  use  of  motsa  meal  or  crushed  almonds  in  anv 
sort  of  cake  or  pudding  is  a  substitution  for  flour 
which  is  forbidden  to  be  used  in  pastry  at  the  Pass  • 
over  season;  otherwise  the  pastries  are  not  peculiar 
or  special.  The  thin  motsas  are  hard  water-crackers 
in  effect,  and  to  make  the  meal  they  are  rolled  to  dust 
and  sifted.  PASSOVER  DRINKS— A  special  depart- 
ment is  set  apart  by  Jewish  bar-keepers  for  Passover 
drinks,  which,  as  has  been  stated,  must  not  consist 
of  anything  made  from  grain — the  'corn'  of  the  bible 
meaning  all  kinds  of  grain. 

JOHX  DORY— JEAN  DORE  or  SAINT  PIERRE— 

j  A  sea-fish  common  in  French  :.nd  English  markets, 

of  singular  appearance  and  excellent  quality.     "On 

the  Brittany  coast,  crabs,  dorys,  mullets,  and  fifty 


other  varieties  are  plentiful.   The  dory  is  here  called 


JOHX  DORY,  JAUNE  DORE,  OR  SAINT  PIEKRE. 

la  bete  du  ban  dieti,  it  being  a  superstition  that  it  was 
!  the  first  thing  in  the  waters  under  the  earth  that  was 
;  created,  the  round  black  marks  on  the  sides  being 
j  supposed  to  be  the  traces  of  the  Creator's  fingers." 
j  JEAN  DORE  A  LA  CREMERIERE — Boiled  in  milk  and 
'  water;  served  with  sauce  of  cream,  butter  and  lemon 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


355 


JOH 

juice.  JEAN  DORE  EN  MATELOTE  MARiNiERE-Dory 
baked,  and  served  with  oyster  sauce.  JEAN  DORE  A 
LA  BATELI ERE— Dory  boiled;  served  with  button- 
onions,  mushrooms  and  essence  of  anchovy  in  white 
sauce.  JEAN  DORE  A  LA  PUREE  DE  CREVETTES— 
Dory  cut  up  and  stewed ;  served  in  a  puree  of  shrimps 
with  butter  and  Bechamel  sauce.  DORY  BOILED — 
The  fins  are  cut  off,  the  fish  placed  in  a  fish  kettle 
with  3  oz.  salt  to1 1  gl.  water;  the  water  brought  to  a 
boil  gradually  and  simmered  till  the  fish  is  done; 
served  with  caper  sauce. — The  name  is  said  to  be  a 
corruption  of  "Jamie,  yellow.  Dore  is  golden. 

JOHXXY  CAKE — American  common  name  for 
any  sort  of  plain  corn -bread;  originally  a  cake  of 
corn -meal,  salt  and  water  baked  on  a  board  setup 
before  an  open  fire. 

JOLIE  FILLE  SAUCE  (Fr.)-Fair  maid's  sauce. 

White  chicken-sauce  with  hard-boiled  yolks,  bread- 
crumbs, butter,  and  parsley. 

JORDAX  ALMONDS  — Best  quality  of  table- 
almonds. 

JUBILEE  PUDDIXG— (/)  A  border-mould  of 
claret  jelly,  center  filled  with  whipped  cream  mixed 
with  cut  candied  fruits  and  preserved  ginger.  (2)  A 
hot  vermicelli-pudding  made  like  a  bread-custard 
and  baked ;  strawberry  jam  and  cream  spread  on  top, 
and  meringued  over — like  queen  pudding. 

JUMBLES — Small  ring-cakes,  various  qualities; 
best  made  of  i  Ib.  sugar,  %  Ib.  butter,  S  eggs,  lemon 
flavor,  flour  to  make  soft  dough;  forced  through  a 
star-tube  in  rings  on  paper;  baked. 

JUNKET — English  dish  of  cream  and  milk  curd- 
led with  rennet  and  flavored  with  brandy;  eaten 
with  short-cake.  The  cream  is  whipped  and  spread 
on  top  of  the  curd. 

K. 

KALE — Sea-kale,  a  kind  of  cabbage-greens,  like 
cabbage  in  taste,  like  endive  in  appearance;  obtain- 
able early  in  spring  when  other  vegetables  are 
scarce;  should  be  partially  blanched  by  the  garden- 
ers by  being  grown  under  cover,  as  the  whitest  is 
the  best  and  tenderest.  Cooked  like  spinach  and 
other  greens. 

KABOBS  OR  KEBOBS— Meat  in  slices  cooked 
on  skewers.  It  is  English  or  Anglo -Indian.  The 
method  is  followed  extensively  in  this  country,  but 
the  word  is  not  used;  we  call  kebobs  brocliettes. 
Kebobs  or  brochettes  of  meat  of  any  kind  have  ei- 
ther two  kinds  of  meat  or  something  between  the 
meat,  as  a  slice  of  liver  and  bacon  alternately  is 
kebobed  liver,  slices  of  pork  with  a  piece  of  onion 
between  each  slice  is  a  pork  kebob,  mutton  chops 
egged  and  breaded,  then  a  skewer  run  through  the 
whole  bunch,  with  perhaps  a  slice  of  fat  salt  pork 
between  each  chop,  is  another  form  of  kebob  or 
brocliette. 

KANGAROO  TAILS— These  can  be  bought  in 
cans.  To  prepare  for  the  table  the  can  is  wanned, 


KID 

the  jelly  and  gravy  drawn  off  and  made  into  a  hot 
sauce  with  poit  wine  and  seasonings,  strained,  the 
pieces  of  tail  put  in  it;  served  with  croutons  of  fried 
bread  around. 

KARTOFFELX  (Ger.)— Potatoes. 

KEDGEREE — Anglo-Indian  term  like  kebob. 
It  means  "twice  cooked."  Is  not  any  one  thing  but 
a  rechauffe  or  warm-up  of  fish,  eggs  or  meat  with 
rice  or  potatoes  or  boiled  peas.  (/)-Cold  fish  and 
hard-boiled  eggs  cut  up  in  butter,  baked  on  a  layer 
of  mashed  potatoes  till  all  are  hot  through.  (2)-Hard 
boiled  eggs  and  fried  onions  mixed,  and  served  on 
a  bed  of  porridge  made  of  boiled  peas  and  boiled 
rice,  mixed  together  with  butter,  etc. 

KID — Young  kid  is  as  freely  purchased  and  eaten 
in  some  sections  of  this  country  as  young  lamb  and 
is  as  good.  It  is  often,  however,  sold  for  lamb,  which 
is  a  fraud  on  the  buyer.  To  KNOW  KID  FROM  LAMH 
— Observe  the  lower  joint  of  the  fore -leg;  the  goat's 
leg  from  the  knee  to  the  hoof  is  one-third  shorter 
than  the  sheep's.  If  the  lower  joint  is  cut  off  by  the 
butcher  there  is  no  way  of  knowing  the  difference, 
but  it  is  the  common  shop  practice  to  dress  lambs 
with  all  the  fore-leg  left  on  except  the  hoof,  and  to 
do  otherwise  in  the  kid  season  will  be  a  suspicious 
proceeding.  CALIFORNIA  KID — "The  editor  of  the 
Los  Angeles  Herald  asked  me  how  I  would  like  to 
go  out  some  day  and  help  him  eat  a  kid.  I  had  never 
eaten  any  kids,  but  I  did  not  want  to  show  my  ig- 
norance, so  I  told  him  I  should  like  it  above  all 
things.  I  thought  maybe  there  was  a  time  here  when 
the  people  thought  they  must  eat  a  kid  or  two,  and 
I  did  not  want  to  stop  their  pleasure,  so  I  agreed  to 
go.  I  thought  maybe  if  I  did  not  like  the  kid,  when 
the  time  came  they  would  let  me  lunch  on  a  harness 
tug  or  something.  He  set  Sunday  as  the  day,  and 
the  result  is  I  am  just  about  as  full  of  youthful  goat 
as  a  man  can  be,  and  if  I  don't  bleat  before  morning- 
it  will  be  strange.  Lynch  has  a  friend  who  keeps 
an  Italian  restaurant,  where  everything  is  cooked 
right.  Once  a  year  or  so  he  secures  a  young-  kid  and 
keeps  it  until  it  is  about  six  weeks  old,  feeding  it  on 
nothing  but  its  mother's  milk.  It  never  eats  a  spear 
of  grass  and  is  simply  fed  on  milk.  The  kid  is  taken 
off  into  a  canyon,  away  from  the  vile  city,  beside 
mountain  streams,  killed  and  dressed  and  cooled,  and 
placed  on  sticks  over  the  embers  of  a  fire,  and 
roasted,  being  basted  and  turned  frequently,  and 
when  done  to  a  turn  it  is  placed  upon  an  impro- 
vised table,  camp  fashion,  and  the  happy,  hungry 
man  who  has  an  invitation  to  that  dinner  begins  to 
get  to  his  work.  I  had  wondered,  all  the  way, 
whether  I  could  eat  goat.  I  had  thought  of  all  ihe 
goats  I  had  ever  met  around  li  very  stables,  and  could 
remember  just  how  they  smelled,  but  when  I  first 
got  a  smell  of  that  cremated  kid  I  wondered  if  there 
would  be  any  of  it  left  for  the  rest  of  the  party.  I 
have  eaten  many  delicious  dishes  in  my  time,  but  I 
never  ate  anvthing  so  delicious  as  the  kid  of  to-day, 
roasted  by  my  Italian  friends  and  aided  by  some  Los 


356 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


KID 

Angeles  claret  and  plenty  of  mountain  air,  while 
the  mountain  stream  at  our  feet  sang  so  joyously, 
and  I  will  go  further  to  enjoy  another  half  of  a  small 
goat,  if  I  ever  get  the  chance,  than  to  partake  of  any 
meal  that  can  be  produced."  GOAT  MUTTON—  "A 
fine  billy-goat,  weighing  56  Ihs.,  formed  the  gastro- 
nomic feature  of  a  feast  recently  given  bv  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  Duke  of  Lancaster,  Royton,  Lanca- 
shire. About  fifty  guests  sat  down  to  supper,  and 
according  to  a  local  chronicler,  'there  was  but  one 
opinion  expressed  at  the  finish  of  the  appetizing 
meal,  that  the  flesh  of  the  animal  partaken  of  was 
equal  in  all  respects  to  the  finest  Southdown.'  Kid's 
flesh,  we  know  from  personal  experience,  is  not  half 
bad,  but  the  thought  of  billy-goat  in  his  prime  is  too 
appalling." 

KIDXE  YS — Mutton  kidneys  are  a  great  breakfast 
specialty  in  England;  grilled  kidneys  are  only  pre- 
vented from  being  as  universally  served  as  the  na- 
tional eggs  and  bacon  by  their  dearness;  the  demand 
is  always  greater  than  the  supply,  and  the  price  is 
high,  accordingly.  Australia,  which  exports  so 
much  mutton,  now  sends  to  England  sheep- kidneys 
in  a  frozen  state,  and  the  coveted  delicacy  may  soon 
be  obtainable  by  people  of  moderate  means  in  con- 
sequence. BROILED  KiDNE\*s-The  kidneys  skinned 
are  cut  open  without  quite  severing  the  two  halves, 
and  a  thin  skewer  run  through  them  edgewise  to 
keep  them  in  flat  shape  for  broiling;  dipped  in  butter, 
laid  on  gridiron  cut-side  down;  broiled  3  minutes; 
turned,  and  broiled  3  minutes  more;  served  with 
maitre  d'hotel  butter.  How  TO  EAT  KIDNEYS— 
"Kidneys  should  be  eaten  directly  they  are  dressed, 
else  they  will  lose  their  goodness.  They  are  also 
uneatable  if  too  much  done,  and  a  man  that  cannot 
cat  meat  underdone  should  not  have  them  at  his  table. 
In  France  they  are  saute  with  champagne  or  chab- 
lis."  MUTTON  KIDNEYS  WITH  MUSHROOMS— Sliced 
kidneys  fried  in  a  pan  with  butter  till  slightly 
brown;  sliced  mushrooms  added,  and  brown  sauce, 
lemon  juice,  butter,  salt,  pepper,  parsley.  STEWED 
KIDNEYS — Any  kind;  same  as  the  preceding  without 
brown  sauc"e  ready;  but  flour  stirred  in,  and  water 
added;  simmered  to  thicken.  KIDNEYS  IN  CREAM — 
Beef,  veal  or  mutton  kidneys  parboiled  in  two  or 
three  waters  to  get  rid  of  the  brown  gravy  that  comes 
from  and  curdles  on  them;  chopped  fine,  put  into 
cream  sauce  with  parsley.  BROCHETTES  OF  KID- 
NEYS— Slices  strung  on  a  skewer,  saute  in  a  pan  with 
butter,  or  in  the  oven,  and  finished  on  the  gridiron; 
served  on  the  skewer  if  it  is  silver,  or  slipped  off  the 
skewer  on  to  toast,  and  sauce  poured  over.  SAVORY 
BUTTER  FOR  KIDNEYS  —  One  pound  butter,  6  oz. 
finely  chopped  shallots,  4  oz.  chopped  parsley,  pep- 
per, salt,  lemon  juice;  worked  tog-ether.  FRIED 
KIDNEYS  AND  SALT  PORK — Equal  number  of  slices 
of  each;  fried  together,  and  gravy  made  in  the  pan. 
CURRIED  KIDNEYS — Onion  and  sour  apple  chopped 
and  fried;  curry  powder  added,  and  broth  or  water; 
split  kidneys  put  in;  simmered,  thickened;  served 
with  rice.  KIDNEY  PATTIES— Pattv cases  filled  with 


KIS 

(/)  the  kidneys  in  cream,  above;  (2)  kidneys,  ham 
and  mushrooms  cut  in  dice,  fried  together;  thick 
sauce  added.  ROGNOXS  DE  MOUTON  A  i.'Epict'Rl- 
ENNE-Mutton  kidneys  cut  open,  bread-crumbed  and 
broiled;  the  hollows  filled  with  tartar  sauce,  and 
devil  sauce  around.  ROGXONS  TIE.  MOUTON  A  LA 
VENiTiENNE-Kidneys  in  halves  fried  in  butter  with 
shallots;  dressed  on  a  border;  brown  sauce  with  an- 
chovy butter.  ROCFNONS  DE  MOUTON  AU  VIN  DE 
C'HAMpAGNE-Thin  slices  of  kidnevs  parboiled,  sim- 
mered in  butter;  served  in  white  sauce  with  cham- 
pagne and  mushrooms.  PETITS  PATES  AUX  ROG- 
xoxs-Kidney  patties,  as  above  previously  described. 
ROGNON  DE  VEAU  SAUTE — Calf's  kidney  minced, 
stirred  up  in  a  pan  With  butter;  brown  sauce  and 
wine  added.  ROGNON  DE  VEAU  EN  CAISSE— Small 
round  slices  of  veal  kidney  in  brown  sauce  with 
shallots  and  mushrooms;  baked  in  small  paper  cases, 
the  tops  sprinkled  with  bread-crumbs.  ROGNON  DE 
VEAU  A  LA  JARDINIERE — Specialty  of  Paris  restau- 
rant. Kidneys  in  slices  skewered  edgewise,  cooked 
in  kidney  fat  with  vegetables,  covered  with  uuttered 
paper;  drained,  taken  off  skewers,  glazed,  placed  in 
dish ;  peas  on  one  side,  green  beans  on  other,  glazed 
spring  carrots  at  one  end,  duchesse  potatoes  to  fin- 
ish. Tomato  sauce  separate. 

KI  \GFISH— A  southern  sea  fish  of  the  Spanish 
mackerel  variety.  It  is  boiled  and  served  with 
Hollandaise  sauce,  or  baked  with  fine  herbs,  or  split 
and  broiled  in  the  usual  way  for  all  fish,  served  with 
maitre  d' 'hotel  butter  spread  upon  it  and  garnished 
with  parsley  and  lemons.  FILLETS  OF  K.INGFISH 
A  LA  COLBERT — Boneless  sides  seasoned,  dipped  in 
flour,  then  in  egg  and  bread-crumbs,  fried;  maitre 
</'  hotel  butter,  parsley  and  lemons. 

KING'S  RINGS— King's  rings  is  a  French  dish 
fit  for  a  king.  Make  a  little  delicate  mince-meat 
simply  of  veal  or  chicken,  carefully  flavored  to  taste, 
and  enclose  it  in  rings  of  carrots  cut  in  slices.  The 
success  of  this  dainty  depends  entirely  on  the  fla- 
voring. 

KIPPERED  FISH— Smoked  fish.  KIPPERED 
SALMON — Smoked  salmon.  KIPPERED  HERRINGS 
Common  smoked  herrings.  "And  the  process  by 
which  herrings  are  determined  as  'blcaters'  or 
'kippers'  were  explained  to  him.  The  work  was 
going  on  in  full  swing,  the  strapping  Scotch  lassies 
and  women  almost  running  about  their  work,  with 
no  head-dress  but  a  shawl — brawny-looking  Ama- 
zons." 

KIRSCHWASSER  (Ger.)— Liqueur  made  from 
cherrv  juice.  The  name  signifies  cherry -water. 
SORBET  AU  KIRSCH — Punch  flavored  with  kirsch- 
wasser.  The  cherry-seed  flavor  of  this  spirit  makes 
it  very  good  for  all  sorts  of  cakes,  ices  and  sweets. 

KISELLE  (Fr.)  —  Corn-starch  jelly,  made  by 
thickening  boiling  raspberry  syrup  '.vith  starch 
enough  to  make  it  jelly  w  hen  cold. 

KISSES—  Common  popular  name  for  meringues 
of  cake  icing  baked  on  paper;  also,  certain  candies. 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


57 


KIT 

KITCHEN  OF  THE  PHARAOHS— "Nothing 
is  more  curious  and  interesting  in  that  remarkable 
discovery  lately  made  by  Mr.  Flinders  Petrie  in  the 
loneliest  and  dreariest  corner  of  the  north-eastern 
Delta,  where  he  has  actually  unearthed  'Pharaoh's 
house  in  Tahpanhes,'  of  which 'we  read  in  Jer.  xliii, 
than  the  perfect  condition  in  which  the  kitchen  and 
servants'  offices  have  been  found.  The  kitchen, 
which  was  in  use  nearly  three  thousand  years  ago, 
is  a  large  room  with  recesses  in  the  thickness  of  the 
walls,  which  served  for  dressers.  Here  some  four- 
teen large  jars  and  two  large  flat  dishes  were  found 
by  Mr.  Petrie  standing  in  their  places,  unharmed 
amid  the  general  destruction,  as  they  may  have 
stood  when  the  fugitive  daughters  of  Zedekiah, 
then  a  dethroned  and  mutilated  captive  in  Babylon, 
were  brought  to  Pharaoh's  palace  in  Tahpanhes  by 
Johanan,  the  son  of  Kareah,  followed  by  '  all  the 
captains  of  the  forces  '  and  '  the  remnant  of  Judah.' 
A  pair  of  stone  corn-rubbers,  a  large  iron  knife, 
various  weights,  and  three  small  flat  iron-pokers — 
or  possibly  spits — were  also  found  in  the  kitchen. 
The  butler's  pantry  was,  of»course,  the  room  to 
which  wine  jars  were  brought  from  the  cellars  to  be 
opened.  It  contained  no  amphorae,  but  hundreds  of 
jar  lids  and  plaster  amphorae -stoppers,  some 
stamped  with  the  royal  ovals  of  Psammetichus,  and 
some  with  those  of  Necho,  his  successor.  Here 
also  was  found  a  pot  of  resin.  The  empty  amphora?, 
with  quantities  of  other  pottery,  mostly  broken, 
were  piled  in  a  kind  of  rubbish  depot  close  by. 
Some  of  these  amphora:  have  the  lute-shaped  hiero- 
glyph signifying  nefer  (good)  scrawled  three  times 
in  ink  upon  the  side,  which,  not  to  speak  it  pro- 
fanely, may  probably  indicate  some  kind  of  '  XXX  ' 
for  Pharaoh's  consumption.  Most  curious  of  all, 
however,  is  the  small  apartment  evidently  sacred  to 
the  scullery  maid.  It  contains  a  recess  with  a  sink; 
a  built  bench  to  stand  things  upon;  and  recesses  in 
the  wall  by  way  of  shelves,  in  which  to  place  what 
had  been  washed  up.  The  sink  is  formed  of  a  large 
jar  with  the  bottom  knocked  out,  and  filled  with 
broken  potsherds  placed  on  edge.  The  water  ran 
through  this  and  thence  into  more  broken  pots  be- 
low, placed  one  in  another,  all  bottomless,  going 
down  to  the  clean  sand  some  four  to  five  feet  below. 
The  potsherds  in  this  sink  were  covered  with  or- 
ganic matter  and  clogged  with  fish-bones.  In  some 
of  the  chambers  of  the  palace  there  have  been  found 
large  quantities  of  early  Greek  vases,  ranging  from 
550  B.  c.  to  600  B.  c.  This  discovery  of  the  palace 
of  Pharaoh  in  Tahpanhes  is  by  far  the  most  inter- 
esting yet  made  in  connection  with  the  Egypt  Ex- 
ploration Fund." 

KOHL-RABI— The  turnip-rooted  cabbage,  or 
above-ground  turnip;  a  root  very  much  like  a  cab- 
bage stalk  in  taste.  Is  said  to  be  best  when  cooked 
with  the  outside  peel  on  and  peeled  after  cooking. 
It  is  then  cut  in  large  dice  and  put  in  white  sauce  or 
brown,  or  chopped  in  cream,  or  served  with  small 


KOU 

pieces  of  boiled  bacon,  or  mashed  or  cooked  in  any 
way  that  other  vegetables  are. 

KOONTIE— The  "koontie,"  a  plant  which  grows 
in  Florida,  has  been  called  the  "Indian  bread  root," 
and  the  meal  or  flour  made  from  it  is  very  much 
like  the  arrow-root  of  commerce.  It  makes  a  beau- 
tiful white  flour,  of  which  bread  and  puddings  are 
made  which  are  delicious  and  especially  invaluable 
for  invalids.  The  Indians  and  natives  have  used 
it  for  bread  for  many  years,  and  people  who  have 
tried  it  think  there  is  a  fortune  in  store  for  anyone 
who  will  engage  extensively  in  the  manufacture  of 
"koontie"  flour. 

KOSHER  (Heb.)— Pure.     See  Jewish  cookery. 

KOUMISS— Fermented  milk.  This  is  a  regular 
article  of  sale  in  the  large  cities.  The  taste  is  much 
like  buttermilk.  Some  like  it  as  a  beverage,  others 
drink  it  for  their  health.  At  the  drug  stores  where 
sold  it  is  in  bottles  kept  on  ice,  and  the  purchaser 
is  asked  whether  he  wishes  it  fresh,  medium,  or 
old.  The  old  bottled  koumiss  contains  a  small  per 
cent,  of  alcohol,  developed  from  the  yeast-ferment- 
ation of  the  milk,  it  discharges  the  cork  from  the 
bottle  with  force  like  wine.  The  real  original  kou- 
miss is  made  of  mare's  milk  and  is  a  Russian -Tartar 
drink,  originated  by  the  tribes  on  the  steppes  of 
Tartary.  Koumiss  made  in  this  country  is  of  cow's 
milk.  There  are  certain  differences  which  result  in 
there  being  less  alcohol  in  American  than  in  Rus- 
sian koumiss.  Government  Report  :  "  Fermented 
mare's  milk  has  long  been  a  favorite  beverage  in 
the  East,  where  it  is  known  as  'koumiss.'  Al- 
though the  Tartars  and  other  Asiatic  tribes  use 
mare's  milk  for  the  manufacture  of  koumiss,  yet  it 
is  not  the  only  kind  that  can  be  employed.  Since 
the  consumption  of  milk-wine  has  extended  west- 
ward cow's  milk  is  chiefly  employed  for  making  it 
both  in  Europe  and  America.  Mare's  milk  is  con- 
sidered most  suitable  for  fermentation  because  of 
the  large  percentage  of  milk-sugar  which  it  con- 
tains. Dr.  Stahlberg,  who  brought  forty  mares 
from  the  steppes  of  Russia  to  Vienna  for  the  pur- 
pose of  using  their  milk  foi  n.oumiss,  found  its  per- 
centage of  lactose  to  be  7.26.  On  the  other  hand, 
ordinary  mares  that  were  kept  at  work  gave  a  milk 
containing  only  5.95  per  cent,  sugar.  The  quantity 
of  milk-sugar  in  a  mare's  milk  is  great,  but  there  is 
a  deficiency  of  fat  and  other  solids.  It  appears  to 
contain  fully  89  per  cent,  water,  while  cow's  milk 
does  not  have  more  than  87  per  cent.  The  mares 
from  which  the  milk  was  taken  were  on  exhibition 
at  the  London  International  Exposition  for  1884. 
These  animals  were  obtained  from  the  South  -east- 
ern Russia.  The  mares  were  from  5  to  6  years  old, 
and  were  cared  for  and  milked  by  natives  of  tin- 
country  from  which  they  were  taken.  When  milked 
five  times  daily  the  best  of  these  mares  gave  from 
four  to  five  litres  of  milk.  The  process  of  manufact- 
ure is  not  uniform.  In  the  East  the  mare's  milk  is 
placed  in  leathern  vessels;  to  it  is  added  a  portion 


358 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


KRO 

of  a  previous  brewing,  and  also  a  little  yeast.  In 
thirty  to  forty -eight  hours  the  process  is  complete. 
During  this  time  the  vessels  are  frequently  shaken. 
Good  cow's  milk,  however,  is  suitable  for  the  man- 
ufacture of  koumiss  after  most  of  the  cream  has 
been  removed.  Should  it  he  desired  to  make  a  kou- 
miss richer  in  alcohol,  some  milk-sugar  could  be 
added.  In  the  samples  analyzed  by  me  the  milk 
was  treated  \vith  a  lactic  ferment  and  yeast.  After 
twenty-four  to  forty-eight  hours'  fermentation  the 
koumiss  was  bottled.  The  bottles  were  kept  in  a  cool 
place,  not  above  50  degrees  F.,  and  in  a  horizontal 
position.  When  shipped  to  me  they  \vere  packed 
in  ice.  After  they  were  received  in  the  laboratory 
they  were  kept  on  ice  until  analyzed.  The  samples 

analyzed  were  kindly  furnished  by  Mr. of 

Indianapolis.  This  koumiss  makes  a  delighfully 
refreshing  drink.  When  drawn  from  the  bottle  and 
poured  a  few  times  from  glass  to  glass  it  becomes 
thick  like  whipped  cream,  and  is  then  most  palata- 
ble. It  is  much  relished  as  a  beverage,  and  is  high- 
ly recommended  by  physicians  in  cases  of  imper- 
fect nutrition.  As  MADE  IN  LONDON— A  small  quan- 
tity of  a  preparation,  usually  consisting  of  yeast, 
honey,  alcohol,  and  a  little  flour,  is  added  to  warm 
milk  or  milk  and  water.  The  whole  is  stirred,  both 
to  aerate  it  and  to  prevent  it  from  turning  acid; 
a  faint  odor  announces  the  establishment  of  fer- 
mentation, and  at  the  proper  time  it  is  poured  into 
bottles,  like  those  used  for  champagne,  which  are 
then  corked  and  wired.  AMERICAN  RECIPE — Fill 
a  quart  champagne  bottle  up  to  the  neck  with  pure 
milk;  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sugar,  after 
dissolving  the  same  in  a  little  water  over  a  hot  fire; 
add  also  a  quarter  of  a  two-cent  cake  of  compressed 
yeast.  Then  tie  the  cork  on  the  bottle  securely, 
and  shake  the  mixture  well;  place  it  in  a  room  of 
the  temperature  of  50  to  95  degrees  F.,  for  six  hours, 
and  finally  in  the  ice  box  over  night. 

KROMESKIES— Russian  croquettes.  Croquette 
mixture  of  any  material,  meat,  fish,  chopped  oys- 
ters, chicken  or  anything,  rolled  up  into  shape  of 
bottle  corks,  then  rolled  up  in  the  thinnest  possible 
shavings  of  cold  boiled  bacon,  dipped  into  batter, 
fried  like  fritters  in  hot  lard.  Served  with  fried 
parsley  or  caper  or  other  sauce. 

KUCHEN  (Ger.)— Cake  of  any  kind.  APFEL- 
KUCHEN— Apple  cake. 

KUMMEL— The  chief  liqueur  of  Russia,  rmide 
of  cumin  seed  and  caraway  seed  in  sweetened  spirit. 


LACTOMETER  — Glass  instrument  for  ascer- 
taining the  quality  of  milk.  (See  Milk.) 

LADY- FINGERS— The  well  known  finger  bis- 
cuits or  Savoy  biscuits  made  of  sponge  cake  batter 
laid  in  finger  lengths  on  paper. 

LAFAYETTE  FISH— A  sea-chubb,  so  called 
from  having  appeared  in  great  numbers  at  the  time 
of  Lafayette's  visit  to  America;  it  was  thought  to 


LAK 

be  a  new  species  and  a  name  was  sought  for  it. 
Cooked  by  flouring  and  frying. 

LAFAYETTE  CAKE— Jelly  cake  with  many 
layers  piled  high,  iced  over  and  ornamented.  Flat 
jelly  cakes  with  colored  icings  are  also  sold  by  the 
same  name. 

LAGER  BEER— The  annual  manufacture  of  beer 
in  this  country  is  about  19,000,000  barrels.  Count- 
ing 1,000  glasses  to  a  barrel,  no  extravagant  esti- 
mate, we  have  about  380  glasses  per  annum  to  every 
inhabitant  of  the  United  States.  In  this  country 
there  are  three  varieties  usually  known  by  the  com- 
mon name  of  lager  beer,  though,  strictly  speaking, 
only  one  of  them  is  entitled  to  the  adjective  "lager." 
The  Winter,  pot  beer,  schenk  (or  schank)  beer,  but 
sold  as  lager,  is  intended  for  immediate  use,  and  is 
light,  containing  less  than  three  per  cent,  of  alcohol ; 
the  true  lager,  or  stored  beer,  should  contain  at  least 
three  and  a  half  per  cent,  of  alcohol;  while  the  bock 
beer,  the  strongest  of  all  the  German  beers,  and  so 
named  from  causing  its  customers  to  prance  and 
tumble  about  like  a  buck  or  goat,  contains  as  much  as 
five  per  cent,  alcohof.  The  latter  is  generally  sold 
for  only  a  few  weeks  in  the  beginning  of  summer, 
and  is  in  great  demand  by  amateurs  of  the  beverage. 
At  the  lager  beer  cellers  a  costly  apparatus  is  em- 
ployed to  force  air  into  the  beer.  It  consists  of  an  air 
pump  which  compresses  air  in  a  tank,  a  pipe  con- 
nects the  compressed  air  with  the  beer  keg.  In  some 
places  the  kegs  are  packed  in  ice,  in  others  where  it 
is  not  drawn  directly  from  the  keg  it  is  forced 
through  a  coil  of  pipe  packed  in  ice  and  comes  out 
ice  cold.  "  If  the  tale  of  the  German  is  true,  who 

says: 

'  Gabrantius  Konig  von  Brabant 

Der  zuerst  das  Bier  erfand.' 

I  bless  the  memory  of  the  good  King  Gabrantius, 
and  quaff  my  nut-brown  ale  and  sparkling  lager 
with  the  consolation  of  knowing  that  kings  can  do 
no  more." 

LAITANCES  (Fr.)— Roes  of  fish.  LAITANCES 
DECARPE— Carp  roe.  LAITANCES  D'ALOSE— Shad 
roe.  COQUILLES  DE  LAITANCES — Scalloped  roes 
in  shells.  CASSEROLE  DE  LAITANCES — Roes  in  the 
saucepan;  stewed  roes  in  sauce. 

LAIT  (Fr.)— Milk.  LAIT  D'AMANDES — Milk  of 
almonds.  LAIT  DE  POULE — A  drink  of  milk  and 
raw  egg. 

LAITUE  (Fr.)— Lettuce. 

LAKE  TROUT— The  Mackinaw  trout;  large  fish 
of  the  trout  family  caught  in  the  great  American 
lakes;  first  quality,  fine  flavor;  cream -colored  or  pink 
fleshed,  inclined  to  softness,  best  when  boiled. 
Large  quantities  are  salted  and  sold  by  the  barrel 
in  brine.  The  methods  and  sauces  suitable  for  sal- 
mon will  be  equally  applicable  to  lake  trout. 
TRUITEDU  LAC  A  LA  MONTEBELLO— Large  troul, 
skinned  on  one  side  and  that  side  larded  with  fat 
bacon,  stuffed;  cooked  in  the  oven  with  paper  over 
and  wine,  broth  and  onion,  etc.,  in  the  pan.  Fish 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


359 


LAM 

taken  up,  pan  liquor  thickened  with  curry  powder, 
butter  and  flour.     Mushrooms,  fish  quenelles. 

LAMB— Lamb  is  the  favorite  meat  of  the  Greeks 
and  Turks.  It  is  more  exquisitely  dressed  in  the 
Turkish  kitchen  than  in  that  of  any  other  country. 
ROAST  LAMB — In  a  dripping-  pan  dashed  with  boil- 
ing water,  cooked  15  minutes  for  each  pound;  bas- 
ted often.  Ten  minutes  before  taken  up  it  is  dredged 
with  flour  and  basted  with  butter.  Fat  poured  off, 
gravy  made  in  pan  and  currant  jelly  mixed  with  it. 
BREAST  OF  LAMB  WITH  PEAS — Cut  in  square  pieces, 
floured  and  half  fried,  stock  or  water  added,  sim- 
mered tender,  peas  in  the  remaining-  liquor  served 
with  it.  LAMB  CUTLETS  AUX  PETITS  Pois— Cutlets 
breaded  and  fried;  frills  on  the  bones;  border  of 
mashed  potatoes  in  dish  hollowed  in  middle  and 
rilled  with  peas,  mushroom  sauce  around,  cutlets  on 
the  mushrooms  around  the  central  border.  LAMB 
CUTLETS  A  LA  DEMI-DEUIL — When  lamb  cutlets  are 
saute,  it  is  usual  to  surround  them  with  a  border  of 
truffles,  which  is  called  demi-deuil- — a  kind  of  half- 
mourning-  for  the  gentle  creature.  LAMB  CUTLETS 
AND  STUFFED  CUCUMBERS — Ornamental  dish;  cu- 
cumbers hollowed  and  stuffed  with  bread  forcemeat, 
stewed  in  milk,  made  cold,  cut  into  rings,  breaded, 
fried,  cutlets  with  frills  on  bone  arranged  alternately 
in  a  crown,  macedoine  of  vegetables  in  center. 
SAUTE  D'AGNEAU  AUX  TOMATES — Paris  restaurant 
specialty.  Boned  shoulder  of  lamb  cut  into  I  inch 
squares,  fried  in  4  oz.  butter  with  3  onions  and  2 
cloves  of  garlic;  12  tomatoes  cut  in  halves,  half  fried 
in  butter  then  added  to  the  stew  and  all  cooked  15 
minutes;  croutons  around.  LAMB  CUTLETS  AU  PAR- 
MESAN— Cutlets  partly  fried  in  butter  to  set  them  in 
shape,  then  dipped  in  white  sauce  made  thick  with 
grated  cheese,  breaded,  egged,  breaded  again  and 
fried.  LAMB  CUTLETS  WITH  YOUNG  CARROTS — 
Breaded  cutlets  with  very  small  carrots  cooked 
•whole  and  seasoned  with  butter,  chopped  parsley, 
pepper,  salt,  sugar,  lemon  juice.  LAMB  CHOPS  A  LA 
PRINCESSE — Broiled  chops  dipped  in  white  mush- 
room sauce,  made  cold,  egged  and  breaded  and  fried. 
Served  with  asparagus  in  white  sauce.  LAMB  CUT- 
LETS A  LA  CHATLELAiNE-Cutlets  sautced  on  one  side, 
cooled,  trimmed,  the  cooked  side  covered  with  puree 
of  chicken  and  onion  moistened  with  cream  and  egg. 
The  uncooked  side  is  next  sauteed  which  sets  the 
covering.  Served  with  demi-glace  and  puree  of 
green  peas.  SELLES  D'  AGNEAU  A  LA  TOULOUSAINE 
— Three  saddles  of  lamb  boned  and  served  in  tur- 
ban form.  The  meat  is  cut  in  fillets  which  are  lar- 
ded, half  with  lean  ham,  half  with  truffles;  mari- 
naded in  oil  and  lemon  juice,  arranged  in  alternate 
iorm  with  forcemeat  between,  covered  with  buttered 
paper,  baked,  served  with  financiere  garnish.  LAMB 
CUTLETS  A  LA  BOULANGEKE— Cutlets  dipped  in  oil 
and  flour,  and  broiled;  cream  sauce.  COTELETTES 
D'AGNEAU  AUX  PETITS  LEGUMES — Breaded  and 
fried ;  julienne  vegetables  in  brown  sauce  in  the  dish. 
COTELETTES  D'AGNEAU  A  LA  DUCHESSE — Spread 
over  withDuxelles  sauce,  made  cold,  breaded,  fried; 


LAM 

served  on  a  border  or  puree  of  green  peas  with 
mixed  vegetables  in  white  sauce  in  the  center.  CO- 
TELETTES D'AGNEAU  A  LA  PoMPADOUR-Cutlets  half 
sauteed  to  set  them  in  shape,  coated  with  a  mince  of 
bacon,  veal,  truffles,  herbs,  seasonings,  wrapped  in 
buttered  writing  paper,  cut  to  fit,  cooked  in  the  oven, 
but  finished  on  the  gridiron  to  make  thebroiler  marks. 
Served  in  the  papers  with  their  own  gravy  still  in- 
closed. COTELETTES  D'AGNEAU  FARCIES  AUX  TRUF- 
FES — Cutlets  larded,  coated  with  puree  of  truffles  in 
thick  sauce,  made  cold,  then  breaded  and  fried; 
brown  sauce.  COTELETTES  D'AGNEAU  EN  BELLE- 
VUE — Cold  dish;  larded  ornamentally  with  tongue, 
etc.,  braised,  laid  in  a  dish,  melted  aspic  poured 
over,  cut  out  when  cold  with  the  coating  of  jelly 
upon  them.  Served  with  mayonnaise-aspic.  EPI- 
GRAMME  OF  LAMB — See  epigramme.  BLANQUETTE 
D'AGNEAU — Small  round  slices  of  cooked  lamb  and 
tongue  in  white  sauce,  with  parsley  and  button 
mushrooms;  served  in  a  casserole  or  border.  TEN- 
DRONS  D'AGNEAU  —  The  breast  cut  in  pieces. 


LAMB  CUTLETS. 

Macedoine  in  center,  silver  skewer  and  truffle, 
on  ornamental  stand  of  nouilles  paste. 

QUARTIER  D'AGNEAU  A  LA  BROCHE— Fore -quarter 
roasted.  QUARTIER  D'AGNEAU  A  LA  HOTELIERE — 
Roasted  and  served  in  a  sauce  of  maitre  d'tiotel 
butter  and  cream.  COTES  D'AGNEAU  A  LA  CHAN- 
CELIERE — Fore-quarter  to  be  served  whole.  The 
shoulder  is  cut  off,  the  meat  is  chopped  into  a  kind 
of  well  seasoned  sausage  ine.it,  put  back  on  the  ribs, 
breaded  over,  browned  in  the  oven.  SELLE  D'AG- 
NEAU A  LA  BONNE  FERMIERE  —  Roast  saddle  of 
lamb  with  a  border  of  breaded  lambs  fries  and  mint 
sauce.  SELLE  D'AGNEAU  A  L'ALLEMANDE — Saddle 
boned,  stuffed,  braised,  served  with  vegetable  gar- 
nish. SELLE  D'AGNEAU  A  LA  VILLEROI— Boned, 
stuffed,  braised,  covered  with  thick  Allemande 
sauce,  grated  cheese  and  bread-crumbs,  browned. 
GIGOT  D'AGNEAU  A  LA  PALESTINE — Leg  of  lamb 
with  pur<§e  of  Jerusalem  artichokes.  EPAULE  D'AG- 
NEAU A  LA  MONTMORENCY  —  Shoulder  boned, 
stuffed,  larded,  braised,  served  with  Toulouse  gar- 
nish of  mushrooms,  etc.  PATE  CHAUD  D'AGNEAU 


360 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


LAM 

— Lamb  pie,  hot.  MINCED  LAMB — Cooked  lamb 
minced  fine,  seasoned  highly,  made  hot  in  thick 
gravy,  piled  in  middle  of  dish  with  poached  eggs 
and  fried  croutons  around.  LAMB  CUTLETS  WITH 
PUREE  OF  MINT — Cutlets  %  inch  thick  breaded, 
fried,  served  with  mint  sauce.  ROAST  LAMB  A  LA 
DUDLEY — Leg  of  lamb  with  skin  removed,  surface 
larded  with  strips  of  sweetbread  and  kidney;  cov- 
ered with  the  caul  fat  of  the  lamb,  roasted,  mint 
sauce. 

LAMBS'  FRY— The  "pluck;"  heart,  liver,  lights, 
etc.  Same  as  pigs'  fry,  sheeps'  fry.  (See  next  item.) 

LAMB  FRIES— Club  dish.  May  be  broiled, 
fricasseed,  and  stewed  in  wine  sauce,  but  are  gen- 
erally fried.  They  are  split  or  sliced,  sprinkled 
with  pepper,  salt,  lemon  juice,  dipped  in  flour,  then 
in  egg  and  bread-crumbs  and  fried.  They  are  hard 
to  fry  dry  and  with  the  covering  of  crumbs  un- 
broken, need  plenty  of  room  in  plenty  of  fat  that  is 
very  hot,  otherwise  they  shrink  away  and  are  soaked 
with  grease.  Should  be  cooked  only  as  wanted  and 
served  hot.  May  be  served  on  a  bed  of  mashed  po- 
tatoes, or  with  peas. 

LAMBSQUARTER— Popular  name  of  a  kind  of 
wild  salad  greens.  (See  Fetticus.) 

LAMPREY — A  kind  of  eel,  thicker  in  proportion 
to  its  length,  oily,  not  very  abundant.  Cooked  in 
the  same  ways  as  eels,  also  potted  by  baking  in  a 
jar  with  butter  and  spices;  eaten  cold.  LAMPROIE 
A  L'ITALIENNE — Fillets  of  lamprey  stewed  in  wine 
with  oil,  onions,  herbs  and  lemon  juice.  LAMPROIE 
AU  SUPREME — Lamprey  cut  up,  sauteed,  served  in 
sauce  of  red  wine  with  truffles. 

LANDRAIL— A  kind  of  snipe. 

LANGOUSTE  (Fr.)— The  crawfish  or  sea  cray- 
fish; a  small  .lobster. 

LANGUE  (Fr.)— Tongue.  LANGUE  DE  BCEUF— 
Beef  tongue. 

LAPEREAU  (Fr.)— Young  rabbit. 

LAPIN  (Fr.)— Rabbit. 

LARDOONS  (Fr.)— Shreds  of  bacon  or  pork. 

LARD  (Fr.)— Bacon. 

LARDING  MEAT— The  inserting  of  strips  of 
fat  bacon  or  lardoons. 

LARDING  NEEDLES— Long  needles  having 
the  butt  end  like  a  tube  split  open  to  admit  the  strips 
of  bacon  for  larding  meat. 

LARD — A  great  deal  of  watered  lard  is  now  sold 
branded  "pure,"  and  consumers  should  be  on  their 
guard  against  this  imposition.  A  very  simple  test 
of  purity  is  to  drop  a  small  piece  of  lard  into  a  hot 
fire.  If  pure  it  burns  smoothly,  like  oil;  if  watered 
it  crackles  and  splutters.  Watered  lard  is  unnatur- 
ally white,  and  is  colder  to  the  tongue  than  pure 
lard.  Buyers  of  refined  lard  should  ask  for  a  guar- 
antee that  it  is  absolutely  free  from  water.  Lard  is 
very  much  sophisticated  in  other  ways.  The  deal- 
ers offer  three  or  more  grades,  not  pretending  that 


LAV 

they  are  pure.  Manufacturers  testified  before  a 
committee  of  congress  that  about  one  third  of  the 
lard  sold  is  composed  of  cotton-seed  oil,  combined 
with  beef  stearine  and  chemicals.  The  refined  oil 
is  as  good  as  lard  for  some  purposes,  such  as  fry- 
ing, but  ought  to  be  at  a  lower  price  than  lard. 
Stewards  who  wish  to  have  lard  used  for  making 
pastry,  should  buy  the  firmest  and  best,  as  soft  lard 
is  useless  for  that  purpose. 

LARKS  AND  LARK-PIES  —  The  common 
lark,  which  is  called  in  Paris  mauriette,  is  generally 
looked  upon  as  a  wholesome,  delicate,  and  light 
game.  It  is  dressed  in  various  ways;  and  the^owr- 
metx  appreciate  the  value  of  the  excellent  lark-pies, 
which  have  established  the  reputation  of  the  town 
of  Pithiviers  in  France.  How  TO  JUDGE  LARKS — 
The  physician  of  Queen  Anne,  Dr.  Lister,  like  his 
royal  mistress  a  great  gastronomer,  appraised  the 
goodness  of  larks  by  their  weight.  He  laid  down 
the  rule,  which  has  ever  since  been  held  sound,  that 
twelve  larks  should  weigh  thirteen  ounces,  and  that 
if  below  that  weight  they  are  not  good.  LARKS  A 
LA  FRAXCAISE — Pick  and  clean  (leaving  the  livers 
in)  six  larks,  cut  off  the  heads,  wing-bones,  and  feet 
just  below  the  second  joint;  tie  a  piece  of  fat  bacon 
over  each,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  gill  of 
chicken  consomme,  in  which  throw  a  dessert  spoon- 
ful of  chopped  parslev,  three  chopped  chives,  one  tea - 
spoonful  of  white  pounded  sugar;  let  them  stew  for 
fifteen  minutes,  add  salt  to  taste,  and  serve  with  the 
sauce  in  which  they  have  been  stewed.  MAU- 
VIETTES  GRILLEES — Larks  split  open  and  broiled,  on 
toast  or  fried  bread.  MAUVIETTES  EX  SALMIS — 
Salmis  of  larks.  MAUVIETTES  A  LA  CHIPOLATA — 
Cooked  in  the  oven  and  served  with  a  chipolata 
garnish  of  chestnuts,  small  sausages,  etc.  MAU- 
VIETTES EN  CAISSE — The  larks  are  boned,  the  bones 
and  trimmings  boiled  with  vegetables  and  bacon  to 
make  sauce;  livers  and  chicken  livers  cut  in  dice, 
fried  with  onions,  rubbed  through  a  sieve;  liver 
paste  placed  in  the  oiled  paper  cases,  lark  on  top, 
slice  of  bacon  over  it,  baked  15  minutes.  TURBAN 
DE  MAUVIETTES  A  LA  PARISIENXE—  Boned,  stuffed 
with  game  forcemeat,  braised,  dished  crown -shape, 
quenelles  in  center  and  game  sauce.  MAUVIETTES 
EN  COTELETTEji — Boned  larks,  spread  with  force- 
met  t,  breaded,  browned  in  oven,  served  with  brown 
sauce.  CROUSTADE  DE  MAUVIETTES — Larks  boned, 
stuffed  and  baked  in  a  croustade  of  fried  bread. 
LARK  PIE — Larks  trimmed,  stuffed  with  bread 
stuffing,  seasoned;  slices  of  bacon  and  beefsteak  in 
a  dish,  larks  on  top,  broth  and  seasonings,  top  crust 
of  paste;  baked  an  hour  or  more.  (See  Mauvieltf.) 

LASAGNES  — A  kind  of  macaroni  or  Italian 
paste  in  the  form  of  yellow  ribbon. 

LAYER— An  edible  seaweed.  In  Ireland  it  is 
called  "sloke,"  is  cooked  like  spinach  and  is  also 
fried  in  bacon  fat  after  boiling;  it  is  best  to  have  a 
porcelain  saucepan  to  cook  it  in  as  it  acts  upon 
metals,  but  is  wholesome  nevertheless. 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


361 


LAW 

LAWX  TENNIS  CAKE— A  Richfield  Springs 
confectioner  and  restaurant-keeper  is  making  and 
selling  by  the  pound  a  cake  which  he  calls  lawn- 
tennis  cake.  It  is  a  sort  of  Genoa  cake  iced  over  the 
surface  and  covered  thickly  with  chopped  pistachios. 

LEKK — -A  species  of  onion;  the  green  leaves  are 
flat  like  ribbons;  not  tubular  like  an  onion,  but  the 
taste  resembles  onion.  It  is  used  in  most  soups 
when  it  can  be  obtained.  LEEKS  AS  A  VEGETABLE — 
Leeks  are  very  good  served  on  toast  as  asparagus. 
Trim  the  leeks  and  cut  away  the  green  till  there  is 
little  left  but  the  white  part;  clean  thoroughly,  and 
boil  till  tender.  Pour  good  melted  butter  over  them 
and  serve  very  hot.  LEEK  SOUP  A  L'ECOSSAISE — 
"The  leek  was  a  favorite  ingredient  in  the  'cockle 
leekie,'  of  which  James  I.  is  reported  to  have  been  so 
fond,  that  he  retained  his  preference  for  it,  notwith- 
standing all  the  dainties  of  London  cookery."  LEEK 
SOUP  A  LA  PICAKDE — Leeks  cut  in  shreds,  half  fried 
in  butter,  beef  broth  and  sliced  potatoes  added, 
boiled;  small  toasts.  PUREE  OF  LEEKS — A  soup 
made  same  way  as  with  onions.  POIREAUX  AU  Jus 
— Leeks  cooked  like  asparagus  and  served  with  meat 
gravy. 

LEGUMES  (Fr.)— Vegetables. 

LEIPZIG  PANCAKFS-Sweet  pancakes  in  pairs 
with  jam  between;  they  are  raised  with  yeast,  rolled 
out  thin  like  small  crackers,  and  fried  in  a  little  lard. 

LEMON — Nearly  everything  in  the  sweet  line  is 
flavored  with  lemon  sometimes,  and  lemon  cream, 
lemon  pudding,  lemon  cake,  etc.,  have  no  definite 
form  otherwise.  LEMON  Soup-Chicken  broth  thick- 
ened like  custard  with  yolks  and  cream,  and  lemon 
juice  added.  LEMON  BUTTER— Yolks,  flour,  and 
butter  stirred  into  boiling  lemon  syrup.  Used  to  fill 
tarts,  spread  jelly  cakes,  etc.  LEMON  HoNEY-Sugar 
dissolved  in  lemon  juice  with  the  grated  rind  and 
butter;  boiled,  and  thickened  with  yolks;  a  kind  of 
jam  with  neither  water  in  it  nor  flour.  LEMON  PIE- 
(/)  Butter,  sugar,  and  eggs  creamed  together  as  for 
cake,  grated  rind  and  juice  added,  and  bread- 
crumbs to  make  it  like  cake  dough;  baked  in  open 
pies.  (2)  Mixture  of  I  Ib.  sugar,  \y2  pts.  water,  4 
lemons,  2  oz.  butter,  5  oz.  flour,  6  or  8  eggs;  baked  in 
open  pies,  meringued  over.  LEMON  CREAM  PIE — 
Frangipane  or  pastry  cream  with  grated  rind  and 
juice  in  it;  baked  as  a  custard  pie;  whipped  cream 
spread  over  it  when  cold.  LEMON  SPONGE — Lemon 
jelly  whipped  to  froth  while  cooling;  served  with 
custard.  (See  'Jellies.')  LEMON  TRIFLE — Whipped 
cream  flavored  with  grated  rind  and  juice,  sugar, 
sherry,  and  nutmeg;  served  heaped  in  small  glasses. 
LEMON  SAUCE  FOR  FISH  AND  FOWLS— Chopped 
lemon,  without  seeds,  stewed  in  little  water,  mixed 
with  white  sauce  or  cream  sauce.  SWEET  PICKLED 
LEMONS — To  eat  with  game.  Thin-skinned  fruit  to 
be  chosen,  the  rind  carved  ornamentally  with  point 
of  a  penknife;  lemons  boiled  until  tender  in  sweet- 
ened \vater,  then  put  in  jar,  strong  syrup  poured  over 
boiling,  reboiled  and  poured  to  them  3  times. 


LET 

LEMON  DUMPLINGS  —  Small  round  dumplings 
steamed,  or  boiled  in  a  cloth;  made  of  l/.  Ib.  bread- 
crumbs, y^  Ib.  chopped  suet,  i  lemon  rind  and  juice, 
%  Ib.  sugar,  spoonful  of  milk,  2  eggs;  boiled  y2  hour; 
wine  sauce.  LEMON  PEEL — Can  be  made  into  fla- 
voring by  paring  thin  and  putting  into  a  bottle  of 
whisky;  the  liquor  becomes  extract  of  lemon.  KEEP- 
ING LEMONS — Lemons  ma}-  be  kept  perfectly  fresh 
for  six  months,  or  longer,  if  kept  immersed  in  a 
vessel  in  enough  buttermilk  to  cover  them.  The 
buttermilk  should  be  changed  at  least  twice  a  month, 
and  the  lemons  should  be  wiped  perfectly  dry  with 
a  cloth  when  required  for  use.  LEMON  MINCEMEAT- 
See  Mincemeat.  LEMON  SYRUP — Surplus  lemons 
are  used  to  make  syrup  by  paring  the  rind  thinly, 
and  squeezing  the  juice,  and  boiling  in  sugar  syrup; 
straining  and  bottling  for  use  when  fresh  lemons 
cannot  be  obtained.  LEMON  MARMALADE  —  The 
lemons  boiled  in  3  waters,  taken  up  when  tender, 
sliced,  seeds  removed;  fruit  weighed,  2  ibs.  sugar 
and  i  pt.  water  to  each  pound  of  fruit;  boiled  to- 
gether yz  hour.  LEMON  RoLY-PoLY-Sheet  of  short 
paste  spread  with  lemon  marmalade  or  lemon  butter, 
rolled  up,  steamed.  LEMON  SHERBET — See  Sherbet. 

LENNOX  SLICES— A  new  cake  strongly  fla- 
vored with  chartreuse  is  popular  just  now  in  New 
York  at  tea  and  luncheon  parties.  It  is  introduced 
under  the  name  of  "Lennox  slices." 

LENTILS — Kind  of  pea  used  for  soup ;  of  a  brown 
color,  flattened  shape.  Lentils  are  said  to  contain 
twice  the  nourishment  of  flesh  meat;  the  small  Egyp- 
tians are  the  best.  BOILED  LENTILS — Soaked  over 
night  and  boiled  same  as  beans  or  peas,  seasoned 
with  bacon  or  butter.  PUREE  OF  LENTILS — Boiled 
or  stewed  lentils  rubbed  through  a  seive,  seasoned, 
served  as  a  vegetable.  LENTIL  SOUP — Lentils  boiled 
with  stock,  water,  leeks,  parsley,  celery,  salt  pork, 
etc.;  passed  through  seive,  same  as  pea  soup;  crou- 
tons of  bread.  POTAGE  A  LA  CHANTILLY — Puree  of 
lentils  soup  with  cream. 

LETTUCE — "  Lettuce  is  not  much  cooked  in  this 
country  and  when  cooked  it  is  not  much  better  than 
a  cabbage;  but  when  raw,  and  eaten  in  salad,  it  has 
a  peculiarly  pieasant  taste;  and  has  a  sedative  ac- 
tion upon  the  nervous  system,  which  makes  one  re- 
turn to  it  eagerly,  as  one  returns  to  tobacco  and  to 
opium.  The  chemists  obtain  from  the  lettuce  an 
inspissated  juice — called  sometimes  lactucarium, 
sometimes  lettuce-opium — which  is  said  to  allay 
pain,  to  slacken  the  pulse,  to  reduce  animal  heat,  and 
to  conduce  to  sleep."  WIPED,  NOT  WASHED — 
"  Lettuces  ought  never  to  be  wetted;  they  lose  their 
crispness,  and  are/^ro  tanto  destroved.  If  you  can 
get  nothing  but  wet  lettuces,  you  had  certainly  bet- 
ter drv  them;  but  if  you  wish  for  a  good  salad,  cut 
vour  lettuce  fresh  from  the  garden,  take  off  the  out- 
side leaves,  cut  or  rather  break  it  into  a  salad  bowl, 
and  then  mix."  A  MEDICAL  REMARK — "  Some  are 
now  strongly  insisting  that  lettuces  should  be  used 
more  generally  as  food,  and  suggesting  that  they 


362 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


LEY 

ought  to  boiled,  after  which  treatment  they  are  said 
to  be  as  palatable  as  spinach.  If  this  be  the  fact,  it 
is  worth  knowing,  as  spinach  is  necessaaily  ex- 
cluded from  the  diet  of  the  oxaluric  patient,  and  it 
is  precisely  in  this  class  of  cases  the  soothing  prop- 
erties of  the  lettuce,  if  it  have  any,  would  be  valua- 
ble." BOILED  LETTUCE — Boiled  in  very  little  water 
and  turned  frequently;  when  quite  tender  drained, 
pressed,  chopped  fine,  put  in  a  stewpan  with  little 
cream,  butter,  pepper,  and  salt.  LETTUCE  SOUPS — 
Consomme  a  la  Cobert,  Consomme  a  la  Kursal,  Con- 
somme a  la  Chiffonade,  Potage  aux  Herbes  Prin- 
tanieres,  Potage  a  la  Bonne  Femme.  CONSOMME 
AUX  LAITUES — Halves  of  lettuces  tied  and  stewed, 
served  with  consomme  separately.  LETTUCE  SOUP 
A  L'AMPHITRYON — Stewed  lettuce  chopped  and  sea- 
soned with  cheese,  filled  into  croustades  made  of 
rolls  hollowed  out,  sprinkled  with  cheese,  crumbs 
and  butter,  browned,  served  with  consomme  separ- 
ately, and  grated  cheese  with  it.  STUFFED  LETTUCK 
— Parboiled,  drained,  split  open,  forcemeat  or  sau- 
sage meat  inserted,  fat  pork  outside,  simmered  an 
hour.  LETTUCE  SALADS — (See  Salads.) 

LEVRAUT  (Fr.)— Hare.     LIEVRE  is  the  same. 

LEVERET— Young  hare.     (See  Hare.) 

LIAISON  (Fr.)— Anything  that  is  put  into  soup 
or  sauce  to  thicken  it,  especially  eggs,  stirred  in  to 
make  it  creamy  like  a  custard. 

LICORICE  or  LIQUORICE— An  American  root 
used  extensively  for  making  the  extract  which  is 
sold  extensively  in  the  form  of  stick  liquorice,  as  a 
remedy  for  coughs.  LICORICE  COUGH  LQXENGES — 
Specialty;  made  of  dissolved  stick  licorice  and  gum 
arable  in  water  to  make  2  qts.  thick  mucilage;  2$ 
Ibs.  powdered  sugar,  2  oz.  ipecacuanha,  i  drachm 
acetate  of  morphia,  i  oz.  oil  of  aniseed,  i  oz.  pow- 
dered tartaric  acid;  enough  of  the  licorice  mucilage 
to  make  paste  of  it,  rolled,  stamped  out. 

LIEVRE  (Fr.)— Hare:  same  as  levrauf. 

LIMA  BEAN— The  butter  bean;  thrives  best  in 
the  long  summers  of  the  southern  states;  one  of  the 
most  delicate  of  vegetables  in  the  green  state,  and 
nearly  as  good  after  drying.  It  is  boiled  like  green 
peas  and  seasoned  and  sauced  the  same  ways.  LIMA 
BEANS  SAUTES  IN  BUTTER  —  After  boiling  tender 
put  in  a  pan  with  butter,  parsley,  salt,  pepper,  sim- 
mered a  short  time,  served  hot.  LIMA  BEANS  SOUP 
— Puree  of  lima  beans  in  seasoned  broth  with  butter 
and  sippets  of  fried  bread. 

LIMANDE  (Fr.)— Dab;  a  small  flat-fish. 

LIMBURGER  CHEESE— A  very  high -flavored 
and  odorous  cheese,  now  extensively  manufactured 
in  this  country  to  meet  a  very  large  demand.  It  is 
a  soft  whitish  cheese  of  about  the  consistency  of 
new  soap,  and  is  in  bars  wrapped  in  tinfoil. 

LIME — A  small  kind  of  lemon,  plentiful  in  the 
markets,  used  in  many  of  the  same  ways  as  lemons; 
served  with  oysters,  used  in  making  bar  drinks.  It 
Is  pale-colored,  thin-skinned,  more  acid  and  juicy 


LIV 

than  the  lemon.     LIME?  FOR  GARNISHING — "As  a 

piquant  addition  to  a  veal  cutlet,  or  fried  sole,  the 

juice  of  the  lime  is  to  our  mind  preferable  to  that  of 

the  lemon.     In  most  tropical  countries  where  limes 

grow,  a  regular  supply  is  laid  in  weekly  of  some  six 

or  eight  dozen,  at  a  cost  of  a  few  cents,  and  the 

juice  is  eaten  with  almost  everything  that  appears 

at  table,  except  'Irish  stew.'  "    PICKLED  LIMES — 

Limes  with  slight  cuts  in  the  rind  are  rubbed  with 

salt,  allowed  to  remain  5  days  to  soften.     Vinegar 

<  boiled  with  4  oz.  each  mustard  seed  and  ginger  to 

each  quart  and  i  oz.  whole  pepper;  limes  and  salt  in 

I  a  jar,   boiling   vinegar  poured   upon   them.     PRE- 

',  SERVED  LIMES — Limes  boiled  in  3  waters,  sliced, 

i  stewed  in  sugar.     (See  lemon.)     LIMES  WITH  RICE 

i  — Limes  preserved  in  syrup  served  on  rice  boiled  in 

milk  and  sweetened,  after  the  manner  of  peaches 

with  rice,  the  lime  syrup  for  sauce. 

LING— A  fish  that  resembles  cod,  plentiful  on  the 
co-ast  of  Scotland.  It  is  sometimes  imported  as  a 
novelty,  used  in  all  the  ways  of  cod  to  cook  or  dry, 
and  oil  is  obtained  from  the  livers  the  same  as  from 
cod  livers. 

LIOX — Lion's  flesh  is  almost  identical  with  veal 
in  color,  taste  and  texture — so  the  hunters  say. 

LIPTAU  CHEESE  — The  famous  goafs-milk 
cheese  of  Liptau,  in  Bohemia,  similar  to  the  Italian 
Moring  cheese.  It  comes  wrapped  in  tinfoil,  packed 
in  boxes. 

LIQUEURS— Various  flavored  spirics,  'such  as 
chartreuse,  absinthe,  vermouth,  etc. 

LIQUEURS— Name  of  a  certain  class  of  candies 
flavored  with  liqueurs;  bonbons.  The  best  have  a 
liquid  inside  while  the  outside  is  crystallized. 

LIQUEUR  CANDY  ^YITH  EGGS  —  Suitable 
for  hotel  dessert.  It  is  ribbons  of  flavored  egg-yolk 
cooked  by  running  through  a  funnel  into  boiling 
syrup,  then  draining  and  rolling  in  granulated  su- 
gar. Takes  7  Ibs.  sugar  boiled  to  "the  blow"  or 
below  candy  point,  12  yolks  beaten  up  with  kirsch- 
wasser  run  in  like  a  rope  from  a  funnel ;  is  yellow 
and  crystallized.  Needs  a  name. 

LITRE— The  French  quart;  is  about  2$£  Amer- 
ican pints. 

LIVER — Calf's  liver  is  much  sought  after  for 
restaurant  trade,  and  the  butchers  seldom  have  anv 
for  casual  buyers;  it  is  much  better  than  any  other, 
though  beef  liver  is  not  bad.  Pig's  liver  is  next 
best;  sheep's  liver  is  the  worst,  being  hard.  Calf's 
liver  and  bacon  is  a  popular  breakfast  dish.  LIVER 
AND  BACON  EN  BROCHETTE — (/)  Cut  bacon  in  thin 
slices,  then  in  squares,  scald  the  liver  to  set  it  in 
shape,  then  cut  thin  squares  to  match  the  bacon. 
String  liver  and  bacon  alternately  on  a  skewer  and 
broil  on  all  four  sides.  If  silver  skewers  serve 
without  removing  them,  if  iron  skewers  slip  the 
meat  off  on  to  a  slice  of  toast.  (^Prepared  as 
above,  egged,  breaded,  fried  in  hot  lard,  served  with 
sauce.  FRIED  LIVER — Slices  seasoned,  dipped  in 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


363 


LIZ 

flour  and  fried  in  shallow  pan  with  little  bacon  fat. 
LIVEK  AND  ONIONS  —  Fried  liver  covered  with 
onions  wjiich  have  been  fried  separately.  BROILED 
LIVER— Floured,  broiled,  basted  with  butter,  served 
with  tnaiti-c  d'/ioti'l  butter.  LIVER  SAUTE— Sm.. 11 
pieces  of  liver  and  bacon  simmered  in  the  bacon 
fat,  with  little  onion,  seasoned,  water  added  and 
gravy  made  in  the  pan.  ROAST  LIVER  —  Large 
piece  larded  through  and  through  with  finger  strips 
of  fat  bacon,  which  are  rolled  before  insertion  in 
minced  garlic,  herbs  and  mixed  spice,  roasted  with  | 
same  seasonings  in  the  pan,  and  pepper  and  salt ; 
gravy  in  the  pan  with  lemon  juice  added.  LIVER  A 
LA  MODE — Liver  larded  through  and  through  with 
'  strips  of  carrot,  turnip  and  bacon,  herbs  and  sea- 
sonings, baked  slowly  in  deep  pan  with  buttered 
paper  over;  gravy  with  wine  in  the  pan,  served 
with  vegetables.  FOIE  DE  VEAU  A  L'ITALIENNE 
— Calf's  liver  cooked  with  oil,  wine,  bacon,  mush- 
rooms, herbs,  lemon  juice;  sauce  made  in  the  pan. 
PAIN  DE  FOIE  DE  VEAU  —  Liver  paste;  pounded 
and  steamed  in  a  mould  with  eggs,  chopped  ham, 
bay  leaf,  wine  seasonings,  served  hot  with  brown 
sauce,  or  cold,  or  in  sandwiches.  (See  fromage 
d'ltalie.)  CHICKEN  LIVER  PATTIES  —  Chicken 
livers,  calf's  liver,  and  calf's  kidney  cut  very  small, 
simmered  in  butter  with  seasonings,  flour  and  gravy 
added  and  little  sherry;  dished  in  patty  cases.  DEV- 
ILLED LIVER — Parboiled  turkey-  liver  mashed  with 
butter,  mustard,  salt,  cayenne,  mushroom  catsup. 
Stirred  over  fire  till  very  hot,  served  on  toast.  (See 
foie  ffras.)  LIVERWURST — Liver  sausage  made  of 
liver  and  bacon  fat  with  coriander  seed,  cloves  or 
garlic.  LIVER  SOUP  —  See  gondingo.  LIVER 
KLOSE — Liver,  bacon,  bread-crumbs,  butter,  eggs, 
parsley,  salt,  pepper;  made  into  paste,  formed  in 
balls,  boiled  in  water.  (See  German  cookery.) 

LIZARD—"  I  do  confess,  though,  that  on  one  of 
the  last  occasions  of  my  dining  in  Honduras  I  did 
not  fejsl  that  all  was  well,  when  at  the  end  of  the 
meal  I  found  that  I  had  stuffed  myself  with  baked 
lizard.  Of  course,  there  is  nothing  wrong  with  the 
lizard,  except  our  petty  prejudices.  It  tasted  splen- 
didly; but  when  at  last  I  saw  the  big,  seal}-  leg  and 
the  claw  of  the  lizard,  I  don't  think  I  liked  it."  (See 
Guana.) 

LOBSTER— On  the  French  coast  a  lobster  is 
boiled  in  half  milk  and  half  water.  The  "Cardinal 
of  the  Sea"  is  also  cooked  in  a  court-bouillon,  made 
of  a  handful  of  salt  in  the  water,  a  pat  of  butter,  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  a  clove  of  garlic,  and  a  claret-glass 
of  Chablis  or  Marsala,  the  wine  being  added  after 
the  lobster  has  boiled  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 
BROILING  LOBSTERS  ALIVE — "Broiled  live  lobsters 
are  the  latest  in  the  fish  restaurants,  and  jolly  nice 
they  are,  too!  They  split  Mr.  Lobster  down  ffom 
head  to  tail,  and  pop  him  on  the  grill — flat  side  down. 
He  is  served  scalding  hot,  and  you  eat  him  with 
lemon  and  cayenne."  ALLEGED  CULINARY  CRUELTY 
— The  sign  "broiled  live  lobsters"  has  appeared  at  a 
number  of  the  citv  restaurants.  If  the  lobsters  were 


LOB 

put  on  the  gridiron  whole,  the  practice  would  call 
for  suppression  by  law.  Such  is  not  the  practice. 
To  broil  a  lobster  in  its  shell  would  have  no  effect 
different  from  boiling  or  steaming;  the  broil  is  at- 
tained by  the  exposure  of  the  inside  flesh  to  the  fire. 
The  splitting  down  the  full  length  of  the  lobster 
kills  it  before  it  reaches  the  fire.  The  seat  of  life  is 
a  spot  in  the  center  of  the  head  where  it  joins  the 
body,  and  when  the  cook's  knife  passes  through  it, 
life  ceases,  though  the  mechanical  contractions  of 
the  members  may  continue  for  awhile.  A  lobster 
can  be  killed  instantly  by  thrusting  a  skewer  into  the 
part,  cither  from  the  back  of  the  head  or  through  the 
mouth.  The  catfish  is  one  of  the  slowest  animals 
to  die,  and  hours  after  it  has  been  skinned  and 
cut  up  in  pieces,  if  the  head  be  opened  carefully, 
the  seat  of  life  can  be  found  like  a  heart,  about 
the  size  of  a  lima  bean,  still  beating  with  puls- 
ations plain  to  see;  but  if  this  spot  be  pierced 
even  when  the  fish  is  first  caught  and  most 
alive,  it  dies  immediately.  LOBSTER  A  L'AMERI- 
CAINE— A  freshly  killed  lobster  is  cut  up  into  8  or  10 
pieces,  the  claws  making  4  more,  and  the  head  is  set 
apart.  Some  oil  is  poured  in  a  shallow  saucepan, 
and  into  it  is  put  mushrooms,  onions,  shallots,  gar- 
lic, thyme,  bay-leaves,  parsley,  salt,  white  pepper, 
cayenne,  fried  all  together,  without  the  lobster,  till 
light  brown ;  the  oil  then  drained  off,  3  tomatoes  and 
a  bottle  of  Chablis  added;  boiled  5  minutes,  and  the 
pieces  of  lobster,  shell  and  all,  thrown  in;  cooked  % 
hour,  taken  up,  and  the  sauce  thickened  with  the 
substance  found  in  the  head,  and  4  yolks;  carefully 
mixed  in  without  boiling;  strained  over  the  lobster. 
Same  method  as  with  crabs  for  gumbo,  and  the 
southern  or  Creole  fish  court -bouillon.  HOMARD  AU 
CouRT-BouiLLON-Lobster  boiled  in  ordinary  court- 
bouillon  (which  is  seasoned  broth  with  little  wine), 
and  served  with  lobster  sauce.  LOBSTER  AU  KARI- 
Curried  lobster,  served  with  rice.  COTELETTES  DE 
HOMARD — Lobster  cutlets.  (Ste  Cutlets).  MIROTOX 
DE  HOMARD  A  LA  CARDINAL — Slices  of  lobster,  half 
dipped  in  white  sauce,  half  in  cardinal  sauce;  served 
cold  on  a  salad  with  mayonnaise.  COQUILLE  DE 
HOMARD — Lobster  in  the  shell;  scalloped  lobster 
made  by  cutting  the  meat  of  cooked  lobster  small, 
putting  it  in  a  yellow  sauce  containing  onions,  wine, 
yolks,  etc.,  filling  plated  scallop  shells  or  the  back 
shell  of  the  lobsters  with  it;  crumbs  and  butter  on 
top;  baked.  CROQUETTES  DE  HOMARD — Same  as 
cutlets  except  the  shape.  RISSOLES  DE  HOMARD  — 
Croquette-preparation  rolled  in  paste  and  fried. 
PETITS  VOL- AU- VENTS  DE  HOMARD — Lobster  pat- 
ties. BOUCHEES  DE  HOMARD^A  LA  BECHAMEL — 
Smaller  patties  filled  with  chopped  lobster  in  cream 
sauce.  MAYONNAISE  DE  HOMARD — Lobster-meat 
with  lettuce  and  mayonnaise;  decorated.  LOBSTER 
A  LA  NANTAiSE-Cold;  the  lobster  boiled  in  ordinary 
court -bouillon ;  the  creamy  part  from  the  head  with 
the  coral,  and  some  yolks  and  mustard  stirred  with 
oil,  to  make  mayonnaise;  the  lobster- meat  sliced  in 
a  bowl,  and  sauce  poured  over.  STUFFED  LOBSTER, 


364 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


LOB 

NARRAGANSETT  STYLE — Like  devilled  crabs;  lob- 
ster-croquette preparation  filled  in  the  pieces  of  lob- 
ster shell;  crumbed,  buttered,  baked.  TURBAN  OK 
LOBSTER  A  LA  MAZARIN— Sliced  lobster  with  force- 
meat and  sauce  in  a  border  mould;  steamed  till  set 
firm,  turned  out,  and  center  filled  with  oysters, 
mushrooms,  fish  quenelles,  and  sauce;  served  hot. 
BALLOTINES  OF  LOBSTER — Lobster  meat  cut  small 
in  creamy  sauce ;  used  to  stuff  tomatoes,  which  are 
then  placed  with  the  aperture  downwards  in  little 
patty  pans  and  steamed;  served  hot  or  cold,  with 
fish -quenelles  and  sauce,  or  in  aspic.  LOBSTER  ; 
CnEESE--Like  head  cheese.  Lobster  chopped  or 
sliced,  mayonnaise  jelly  made  and  stirred  into  it; 
seasonings;  set  in  a  mould.  (See  Mayonnaise.) 
LOBSTER  A  L'IRLANDAISE — Meat  of  a  boiled  lobster 
in  a  stewpan  with  mustard,  vinegar,  cayenne,  and 
flour-and-butter  for  thickening;  covered,  simmered 
5  minutes,  glass  of  sherry  added;  served  hot  with 
lemon.  LOBSTER  PUDDING — English;  lobster-cro- 
quette mixture  containing  eggs,  boiled  in  a  mould 
for  an  hour;  served  with  lobster  sauce.  LOBSTER 
EN  BROCHETTE— Pieces  of  lobster  alternately  with 
slices  of  bacon  strung  on  a  skewer;  buttered ;  broiled. 
LOBSTER  CREAM  IN  ASPIC — Lobster  meat  in  white 
sauce  set  with  gelatine.  MAZARINS  OF  LOBSTER — 
The  preceding  and  similar  jellied  forms  set  in  small 
moulds,  called  mazarin  moulds.  LOBSTER  SOUP — 
(/)  One  quart  stock  to  i  can  lobster,  i  cup  milk,  2 
yolks,  parsley,  pepper,  salt,  flour-and-butter  worked 
together  enough  to  thicken  it.  (2)  Fish  broth,  2  qts. ; 
i  can  lobster,  milk  thickened  with  starch  added,  and 
butter  and  seasonings.  LOBSTER  SOUP  A  L'!NDI- 
ENNE — Fried  vegetables  and  aromatics,  broth,  wine, 
and  lobsters  boiled  together;  curry  powder,  pounded 
lobster  shells,  butter  and  flour  boiled  in  the  liquor; 
lobster  meat  in  the  tureen,  and  the  curry  soup 
strained  over  it;  rice  separate.  BISQUE  OF  LOBSTER- 
Made  of  rice  and  lobster.  Butter,  onions,  ham,  salt 
pork,  and  parsley  fried  together;  cut-up  lobsters  in 
shell  thrown  in;  wine,  broth,  seasonings;  boiled  an 
hour.  Lobster  meat  and  shells  pounded  in  a  mortar, 
passed  through  seive;  rice  the  same;  broth  passed 
through  seive,  lobster  liquor  added,  and  sherry;  not 
boiled;  served  with  fried  sippets  of  bread.  LOBSTER 
SAUCE — (/)  White  butter-sauce  with  lobster  coral  to 
color  it,  and  lobster  cut  in  small  dice.  (2)  Butter 
sauce,  salt,  white  pepper,  nutmeg,  cayenne,  lemon 
juice,  anchovy  essence,  lobster  butter,  strained;  lob- 
ster meat  cut  small  added;  it  ought  to  be  pink  in 
color.  LOBSTER  BUTTER — Coral  and  eggs  of  cooked 
lobsters  pounded  in  a  mortar,  mixed  with  equal 
quantity  of  butter;  rubbed  through  a  seive.  LOB- 
STER SALAD — See  Salads. 

LOXGE  DE  PORC  (Fr.)— Loin  of  Pork. 

LORDKOLL  CAKE  OR  ALMOND  PUDDING 
— Paris  specialty.  "  Call  it  any  name  you  like.  It 
is  called  Lordkoll  Cake  here.  This  is  how  it  is  pre- 
pared: Prepare  i  Ib.  sweet  almond  powder,  to 
•which  add  y2  oz.  bitter  almonds,  all  very  drv.  Add 
I  Ib.  powdered  sugar.  Take  16  eggs,  of  which 


LUC 

separate  the  yolks  from  the  whites.  Add  yolks  to 
mixture,  working  them  in  carefully.  Bt-:it  up  whites 
with  vanilla  and  add.  Take  Charlotte  moulds, 
which  butter  and  flour.  Fill  your  mould  with  the 
mixture,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven.  Cakes  to  be  served 
hot  and  usually  covered  with  an  English  or  vanilla 
sauce." 

LOVE  IN  DISGUISE— Is  a  calf 's  heart  stuffed, 
then  surrounded  with  forcemeat,  next  rolled  in 
powdered  vermicelli,  lastly  deposited  in  a  baking 
dish  with  little  butter  and  cooked  in  the  oven.  Serve 
it  in  the  dish  with  its  own  gravy. 

LOSS  OF  WEIGHT— Chickens  lose  one  third 
their  weight  in  boiling  and  one  third  more  in  pick- 
ing from  the  bones  and  mincing.  4^  Ibs.  raw  chick- 
en yields  only  ij^  Ib.  clear  meat  for  salad.  "The 
result  of  a  set  of  experiments  which  were  actually 
made  in  a  public  establishment.  They  were  not  un- 
dertaken from  mere  curiosity,  but  to  serve  a  pur- 
pose of  practical  utility:  28  pieces  of  beef  weighing 
280  Ibs.  lost  in  boiling  73  Ibs.  14  oz.  Hence  the  loss 
of  beef  in  boiling  was  26^  ibs.  in  ico  Ibs. ;  19  pieces 
of  beef  weighing  190  Ibs.  lost  in  roasting  61  Ibs.  2  oz., 
or  32  Ibs.  in  loolbs. ;  9  pieces  of  beef  weighing  90 
Ibs.  lost  in  baking  27  Ibs.,  or  30  Ibs.  in  100  Ibs.;  27 
legs  of  mutton  weighing  260  Ibs.  lost  in  boiling  and 
by  having  the  shank-bone  taken  off  62  Ibs.  4  oz.  (the 
shanks  weighed  4  oz.  each.)  The  loss  in  boiling 
was  55  Ibs.  8  oz. ;  the  legs  of  mutton  lost  21%  Ibs. 
in  :oo  Ibs.;  35  shoulders  of  mutton  weighing  350 
Ibs.  lost  in  roasting  109  Ibs.  iooz.;  loss  of  weight 
in  roasting  shoulders  of  mutton  is  about  31^  Ibs.  in 
too  Ibs.;  16  loins  of  mutton  weighing  141  Ibs.  lost  in 
roasting  49  Ibs.  14  oz. ;  loins  of  mutton  lose  by  roast- 
ing about  35}^  Ibs.  100  Ibs.;  10  necks  of  mutton 
weighing  100  Ibs.  lost  in  roasting  32  Ibs.  6oz.  From 
the  foregoing  statement  two  practical  inferences 
may  be  drawn:  (/)-In  respect  of  economy  that 
it  is  more  profitable  to  boil  meat  than  to  roast  it. 
(2)- Whether  we  roast  or  boil  meat  it  loses  by  being 
cooked  from  one-fifth  to  one-third  of  its  whole 
weight." 

LOTUS  SEEDS— Lotus  seeds  form  one  of  the 
most  common  dishes  known  to  the  Barri  of  Central 
Africa.  The  pods  when  gathered  are  bored  and 
strung  on  reeds  and  hung  in  "the  sun  for  drying, 
after  which  they  get  to  the  table. 

LOTTES  (Fr.)— Eel-pouts. 

LOZENGES— Candies  made  without  boiling,  of 
powdered  sugar,  sometimes  starch  and  adultera- 
tions and  gum  mucilage,  cut  out  and  dried.  LEMON 
ACID  LOZENGES — Made  of  8  oz.  icing  sugar,  %  oz. 
powdered  tartaric  acid,  10 drops  oil  of  lemon;  mixed 
\v  ith  mucilage  of  gum  arable  into  a  paste,  rolled  out 
and  cut  into  lozenges.  (See  Licorice.) 

LUCULLUS—  Often  named  in  relation  to  gas- 
tronomy. A  Roman  general.  Lucullus"  suppers 
cost  in  our  money  ten  thousand  dollars  each.  He 
was  perhaps  the  most  refined  entertainer  among  the 
famous  few  whose  names  are  immortal  because  of 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


365 


LYO 

their  extravagance.  BOUDINS  DE  VOLAILLE  A  LA 
LUCULI.US — Quenelles  of  chicken  forcemeat  with 
puree  of  truffles  in  the  center  of  each.  They  are 
formed  with  two  spoons,  poached,  glazed  and 
colored  in  the  oven,  served  in  a  shape  of  fried  bread 
with  aliemande  sauce.  FILLETS  DE  BECASSES  A  LA 
LUCULLUS — Breasts  of  woodcocks  coated  with  force- 
meat and  served  on  a  border  of  toast  with  a  thick 
puree  of  woodcocks  in  the  center  and  game  sauce 
around.  Any  dainty  and  expensive  or  tedious  or- 
namented dish  of  birds  or  small  game  is  designated 
a  la  Lucullus  by  any  ambitious  chtf,  particularly 
dishes  of  ortolans  or  larks  with  truffles,  whether 
hot  or  cold. 

LYONNAISE  GARNISH— For  braised  meats; 
consists  of  stuffed  onions,  cooked  chestnuts,  and 
sliced  sausages  in  the  braise  liquor  and  espagnole. 

LYOXNAISE  SAUCE— Brown  onion  sauce  with 
a  small  proportion  of  tomato  sauce  mixed  in. 

LIVOURNAISE  SAUCE— Cold,  for  boiled  fish. 
It  is  mayonnaise  with  pounded  anchovies  and  pars- 
ley worked  in. 

M. 

MACARONI — There  is  American  macaroni  that 
usually  comes  loose  in  the  large  boxes,  and  some 
of  it  is  as  good  as  the  imported;  it  should  be  tried, 
however,  a  small  quantity  first,  for  poor  macaroni 
dissolves  in  the  water  it  is  boiled  in,  and  is  of  no 
more  use  than  so  much  flour  paste.  The  difficulty 
in  making  seems  to  be  the  choice  of  flour;  macaroni 
needs  a  particular  kind.  It  is  cheap  food,  compara- 
tively, as  it  is  dry  and  in  condensed  form  and  with- 
out waste.  MACARONI  AU  BEURRE — Macaroni  with 
butter;  the  most  ordinary  way  of  serving  it  in  Italy. 
It  is  not  broken  much,  but  thrown  at  once  in  boiling 
salted  water  and  cooked  from  15  to  20  minutes, 
drain,  put  a  piece  of  butter  in  the  centre  and  sprinkle 
cheese  over  the  top;  place  on  the  top  shelf  of  a  hot 
oven  till  thoroughly  heated  and  brown  on  top. 
MACARONI  AND  CuEESE-Boiled  macaroni  with  but- 
ter, salt  and  grated  cheese  mixed  together  hot,  and 
served  plain.  MACARONI  A  LA  CARDINAL — Maca- 
roni and  lobster,  made  by  putting  a  layer  of  boiled 
macaroni  in  a  dish,  a  layer  of  lobster  butter,  then  a 
layer  of  white  sauce,  then  grated  cheese,  and  repeat- 
ing till  the  dish  is  full,  with  pieces  of  lobster  and 
truffles  on  top;  made  hot  without  browning.  MACA- 
RONI A  LA  DOMINICAINE— Boiled  macaroni  with 
puree  of  mushrooms  and  anchovies.  MACARONI 
AND  KIDNEYS — Sliced  kidneys  fried,  tomato  sauce 
added,  layer  of  macaroni,  layer  of  kidneys  and  sauce, 
macaroni  on  top;  chopped  hard-boiled  eggs  and 
grated  cheese  to  finish;  baked  enough  to  melt  the 
cheese  on  top.  ENGLISH  MUSTARD  AND  MACARONI- 
"The  dressing  and  the  eating  of  macaroni  are  very 
imperfectly  understood  in  England.  It  is  usually 
served  at  the  end  of  the  dinner;  it  should  be  one  of 
the  earliest  dishes  partaken  of;  few  cooks  know  how 
to  boil  it,  and  send  it  to  table  either  of  the  consist- 
ency of  pap,  or  underdone  and  leathery.  Finally, 


MAC 

at  some  English  tables  this  delicious,  wholesome 
article  of  food  has  inflicted  upon  it  the  dire  outrage 
of  being  ate  with  mustard.  Mustard  with  macaroni! 
As  well  might  one  eat  strawberry-cream  with  chili 
vinegar."  BUTTERED  MACARONI — Put  a  piece  of 
fresh  butter  the  size  of  an  egg  into  a  well -warmed 
deep  dish;  lay  on  it  about  half  a  pound  of  boiled 
macaroni,  well  drained;  turn  it  over,  as  a  salad  is 
'worked,'  with  two  forks  adding  during  the  process 
plenty  of  fresh-grated  Parmesan  cheese.  BAKED 
MACARONI — A  pound  af  macaroni  boiled  in  salted 
water;  drained;  pepper,  salt,  i  pt.  cream  sauce,  6  oz. 
butter,  6  oz.  cheese;  mixed;  in  baking  dish  with 
cream  sauce  spread  on  top,  cheese,  crumbs,  bits  but- 
ter; baked  brown.  FONDUE  A  LA  NAPOLITAINE — 
Short  macaroni  boiled;  fondue  of  cheese,  eggs,  and 
butter  stirred  together  till  hot,  not  boiled ;  poured 
over  the  macaroni  in  a  dish.  MACARONI  AU 
GRATIN — Same  as  baked  macaroni.  MACARONI  A 
LA  CREME — Boiled  macaroni  in  cream-sauce  con- 
taining grated  cheese.  MacARONi  A  L'ITALIENNE- 
With  brown  gravy,  butter  and  cheese.  MACARONI 
WITH  TOMATOES— Macaroni  mixed  with  cheese  and 
butter,  tomato  sauce  poured  over;  simmered  in  the 
oven  covered  with  buttered  paper;  served  with  fried 
croutons.  MACARONI  WITH  OYSTERS — Oysters  cut 
in  pieces  after  scalding,  cream  sauce  made  with  the 
thickened  oyster-liquor  added,  and  the  oysters  in 
layers  with  boiled  macaroni;  bread -crumbs  and  but- 
ter on  top.  MACARONI  AND  FISH — Same  as  with 
oysters,  using  flakes  of  boiled  cod,  salmon  or  snapper. 
MACARONI  A  LA  GENOISE — Macaroni  served  with 
tomato  sauce  without  baking;  grated  Parmesan 
cheese  sprinkled  on  top.  CROQUETTES  OF  MACA- 
RONI AU  FROMAGE — Bunches  of  sticks  of  macaroni 
parboiled,  taken  hot  and  laid  straight  with  plentiful 
grated  cheese  among  the  sticks,  rolled  up  in  buttered 
cloth  and  cooked  in  fish  kettle;  when  cold,  the  bunch 
of  sticks  of  macaroni  adhering  together  is  cut  off  in 
lengths  of  croquettes,  breaded  and  fried;  tomato 
sauce.  TIMBALES  OF  MACARONI — Like  a  macaroni 
pie.  (/)  Macaroni  in  long  sticks  cooked  in  a  fish- 
kettle;  when  cool,  coiled  like  straw  in  a  buttered 
mould  or  deep  pan  to  make  a  close  lining;  filled  in- 
side with  chicken  forcemeat,  steamed,  turned  out; 
served  with  sauce.  (2)  Mould  lined  with  short 
lengths  of  macaroni  built  up  with  ends  outwa-ds 
like  honeycomb;  filled  with  macaroni,  cheese,  egg 
and  butter  mixture;  steamed;  turned  out  whole; 
sauce,  (j)  Mould  lined  with  pie-paste  previously 
decorated  with  shapes  of  yellow  nouilles  paste  stuck 
on  with  butter,  filled  with  macaroni-and-cheese 
mixture;  baked,  and  turned  out  whole.  TIMBALE 
DE  MACARONI  A  LA  FLORENTINE — Sweetened 
macaroni  or  macaroni -pudding  baked  in  a  crust  of 
paste  to  turn  out  whole;  sweet  sauce  with  raisins. 
MACARONI  SOUPS— Numerous.  (See  Soups.) 

MACAROONS— Small  drop-cakes  made  princi- 
pally of  sugar  and  almonds;  hut  there  are  various 
kinds.  (/)  One  pound  flour,  J^  Ib.  butter,  i  Ib. 
pounded  sugar,  3  eggs,  20  drops  of  any  essence,  J£ 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


MAC 

teaspoonful  ammonia;  mix  well  in  the  order  named; 
drop  pieces,  the  size  of  a  walnut,  on  to  buttered 
sheets,  and  bake  a  pale  color  in  a  cool  oven.  The 
ammonia  is  best  dissolved  in  2  teaspoonfuls  of  milk, 
and  almond  is  the  most  appropriate  flavoring. 
(2)  One-half  pound  crushed  and  sifted  almonds,  % 
Ib.  sugar,  2  oz.  rice-flour  or  starch,  5  whites;  stirred 
up  into  a  paste,  dropped  on  paper,  baked  in  cool 
oven.  (See Almonds,  Cocoanut.)  MACAROON  TARTS- 
Patty  pans  lined  with  thin  sweet  tart- paste,  little 
jam  in  them,  above  almond -macaroon  mixture  on 
top;  baked  in  slack  oven.  MACAROON  CUSTARDS — 
Macaroons  dipped  in  brandy,  placed  in  buttered 
cups,  strong  custard  to  fill  up,  steamed  or  slack- 
baked,  and  turned  out  whole  to  serve;  pink  sauce 
with  wine.  MACAROON  ICECREAM — Almond  mac- 
aroons crumbled  in  ice  cream  make  a  fine  bisque  of 
almonds.  MACAROON  CAKE — Sheet  of  genoise  cake 
baked;  almond -macaroon  mixture  laid  across  with  a 
tube;  slack  baked,  jelly  or  jam  dropped  in  the  lat- 
tice-work spaces;  to  serve  whole  or  cut  in  squares. 

MACE— The  inner  coat  of  the  nutmeg,  between 
the  nutmeg  and  the  outside  shell,  is  called  mace.  It 
is  a  good  flavoring  for  meats  and  cream  soups,  as 
well  as  puddings  and  sweets,  if  used  sparingly.  For 
the  meat  kitchen  it  is  generally  needed  in  blades  or 
the  unground  state;  the  ground  spice  goes  into 
mincemeat,  puddings,  and  cakes. 

MACEDOINE— A  mixture  of  several  kinds  of 
vegetables  or  fruits.  MACEDOINE  VEGETABLES — 
Are  put  up  in  cans  like  any  other  vegetables;  can  be 
obtained  at  the  fancy  grocery  stores.  The  vegetables 
are  cut  \\itiijardinierf  machines  all  to  one  size  and 
quite  small.  There  are  carrots,  turnips,  peas,  string 
beans  and  other  kinds  in  the  mixture,  the  object  be- 
ing to  secure  a  variety  of  colors.  This  mixture  in 
hot  gravy  makes  the  macedoine  garnish  to  go  with 
cutlets  or  other  meats;  or,  with  oil,  vinegar  and  sea- 
sonings, -makes  the  macedoine  salad.  MACEDOIXE 
OF  FRUIT — Several  kinds  of  fruit  in  a  compote,  or 
charlotte,  or  meringue.  MACEDOINE  DE  FRUITS  EN 
GELEE — A  mould  of  alternate  layers  of  different 
fruits  filled  up  with  jelly. 

MACKEREL— Choice  fish  plentiful  on  both  sides 
the  Atlantic.  Says  GRIMOD  DE  LA  REYNIERE:  The 
mackerel  has  this  in  common  with  good  women — he 
is  loved  by  all  the  world,  he  is  welcomed  by  rich 
and  poor  with  the  same  eagerness.  He  is  most  com- 
monly eaten  a  la  mailre  d" 'hot 'el,  but  he  may  be  pre- 
pared in  a  hundred  ways,  and  he  is  as  exquisite 
plain  as  in  the  most  elaborate  dressing.  THE  PER- 
FECT WAY — "  There  is  but  one  perfect  way  of  cook- 
ing mackerel — split  him  in  the  back,  broil  him,  and 
serve  him  with  maitre  d' 'hotel  butter.  Still  better, 
take  his  fillets  and  serve  in  the  same  way."  MACK- 
EREL IN  SEASON — Mackerel  which  are  taken  in  May 
and  June  are  superior  in  flavor  to  those  caught  either 
earlier  in  the  spring,  or  in  the  autumn.  They  are 
best  a  la  maitre  d'hote!.  To  enjoy  the  flavor  of 
these  fish,  they  should  not  be  washed,  but  wiped 


MAD 

clean  and  dry  with  a  cioth.  BROILED  MACKEREL — 
The  fish  laid  open  by  splitting  down  the  back,  the 
back  bone  taken  out.  Juice  of  %  lemon  squeezed  over 
each  fish,  after  drying  it,  also  salt  and  pepper,  broiled 
over  clear  coals,  skin  side  down  at  first,  butter  over. 
STEWED  MACKEREL — Clean  and  cut  a  fresh  mack- 
erel into  four  pieces,  and  take  out  the  bone.  Have 
ready  a  pint  of  melted  butter,  seasoned  with  a  little 
salt,  mace,  end  cayenne.  Throw  in  the  thin  rind  of 
J^  lemon,  and  the  juice  also.  Stew  the  fish  in 
the  sauce  twenty  minutes,  and  just  before  serving 
add  a  dessertspoonful  of  anchovy  sauce  and  a  little 
mustard.  MACKEREL  A  LA  FLAMANDE — Clean  the 
fish  and  stuff  with  butter  mixed  with  chopped  shal- 
lots,-chives,  lemon-juice,  salt  and  pepper;  wrap  in 
sheets  of  buttered  paper,  tie  up  the  ends  with  string, 
and  broil  over  a  slow  fire  for  twenty-five  minutes; 
remove  the  covers  and  serve.  BAKED  MACKEREL 
WITH  VINEGAR — Cut  off  the  heads  and  tails,  open 
and  clean  the  fish,  and  lay  them  in  a  deep  pan  with 
a  few  bay  leaves,  whole  pepper,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  cloves,  and  a  whole  teaspoonful  of  allspice,  pour 
over  them  equal  quantities  of  vinegar  and  water, 
bake  for  an  hour  and  a  half  in  a  slow  oven,  and  serve 
when  cold.  Herrings  are  also  nice  prepared  in  this 
way.  ROLLED  MACKEREL — The  fish  laid  open,  back 
bone  removed,  and  head.  Rolled  up,  tail  outwards, 
cooked  as  baked  mackerel  with  vinegar,  with  plate 
or  top  to  hold  them  in  shape.  Served  cold.  MA- 
QUEREAUX  A  L'EAU  DE  SEL— Mackerel  plain  boiled 
in  salted  water.  MAQUEREAUX  GRILLES  Atr  BEURRE 
XOIR— Mackerel  broiled,  served  with  black  butter 
sauce.  MAQUEREAUX  AUX  GROSEILLES  VERTES — 
Mackerel  stuffed  with  green  gooseberries,  pieces  of 
herring,  etc.,  boiled  and  served  with  green  goose- 
berry sauce.  FILETS  DE  MAQUEREAUX  A  LA  VENI- 
TIENNE— Boneless  sides  of  mackerel  served  in  brown 
sauce  with  tarragon,  chervil,  truffles,  and  port  wine. 
BOILED  MACKEREL— Cut  in  halves  boiled  in  water 
containing  onion,  parsley,  white  wine,  salt,  pepper 
for  15  minutes,  served  with  ravigote  sauce,  or  with 
caper  sauce,  parsley  sauce  or  other,  which  gives 
the  name.  MACKEREL  BALLS— Of  salt  mackerel 
made  same  as  codfish  balls.  SALT  MACKEREL— 
There  are  3  or  more  grades,  the  largest  are  the  best; 
can  be  freshened  most  completely  by  soaking  in 
milk.  Are  cut  up  and  boiled  a  very  few  minutes, 
served  with  plain  butter  or  with  mustard  sauce. 
Broiled  they  are  buttered  and  garnished  with  lemon 
and  parsley. 

MADEIRA  BUNS— i  Ib.  flour,  10  oz.  butter,  7 
oz.  sugar,  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon,  %  oz.  ground 
ginger,  3  eggs,  tablespoonful  of  sherry.  Cream 
and  mix  as  for  cakes,  put  one  tablespoonful  in  small 
moulds  or  patty  pans,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven; 
strip  of  citron  on  top  of  each. 

MADEIRA  CAKE— Plain  pound  cake  by  another 
name,  made  of  12  oz.  sugar,  10  oz.  butter,  10  eggs,  I 
Ih.  flour,  i  teaspoon  baking  powder,  ground  mace  Or 
other  flavor,  baked  in  shallow  cake  moulds. 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


367 


MAD 

MADEIRA  SAUCE— Wine  sauce  of  two  kinds, 
either  savory  or  sweet,  both  having  Madeira  wine 
in  them.  (/)-Broth  thickened  with  butter  and  flour, 
a  pickled  lemon  cut  up  in  it,  little  more  butter  beaten 
in,  glass  of  wine,  nutmeg;  for  fish,  or  boiled  meat 
or  fowl.  0)-Puddmg  sauce  with  Madeira.  MA- 
DEIRA PUDDING— A  jam  pudding  steamed,  made  in 
a  deep  round  pan;  a  sheet  of  short  paste  is  laid  in 
the  bottom,  a  layer  of  jam  on  that,  then  another 
sheet  of  paste,  then  jam  of  a  different  color,  and  so 
on  to  fill  the  pan  like  a  jelly  cake  of  paste  and  jam. 
Steamed  2  or  3  hours.  Cream  for  sauce. 

MADELEINES— (/)  Small  cakes  of  the  genoise 
cake  sort,  baked  in  patty  pans  or  madeleine  moulds ; 
like  madeira  buns,  but  richer,  made  of  %  Ib.  each  of 
butter,  sugar,  flour  and  eggs  and  wineglassful  of 
brandy.  (2)-The  same  with  currants,  mixed  peel, 
and  sultanas  added. 

MADONNA  PUDDING— Steamed  pudding  of 
12  oz.  bread-crumbs,  8  oz.  sugar,  8  oz.  finely  chopped 
suet,  grated  rind  of  i  lemon,  2  eggs,  2  tablespoons 
brandy.  To  be  beaten  industriously  together  with 
a  wooden  spoon;  steamed  3  or  4  hours. 

MAGENTAS — Small  sort  of  sponge  cakes  baked 
in  narrow  tins;  made  of  i  Ib.  sugar,  12  eggs,  ^  Ib. 
flour,  almond  and  orange  flavoring,  6  oz.  butter; 
whipped  up  separately  as  for  sponge  cake,  butter 
softened  and  beaten  in,  whites  last  of  all,  chopped 
almonds  on  top. 

MAIDS  OF  HONOR— A  puff-paste  tartlet  with 
a  cheese-cake  filling  is  popular  in  England  under 
that  name,  and  two  or  three  special  makers  of  it 
have  realized  a  competency.  At  one  place  this 
dainty  has  been  produced  for  200  years,  the  secret  of 
the  mixture  bequeathed  from  father  to  son.  "  Mr. 
J.  T.  B.,  confectioner,  of  Richmond,  sends  us  a  box 
of  the  delicious  little  cakes  associated  for  nearly  two 
centuries  with  the  famed  Thames-side  resort  They 
are  admirable  eating,  but  at  this  time  of  year  are  all 
the  better  for  being  warmed.  As  to  the  origin  of 
their  curious  name,  Mr.  B.  informs  us  two  explan- 
ations are  current:  one,  that  the  maids  of  honor  who, 
in  the  old  court  days  of  Richmond,  used  to  frequent 
the  shop  where  the  cakes  were  originally  made, 
suggested  the  name;  the  other,  that  the  recipe  ema- 
nated from  a  maid  of  honor." 

MAITRE  D'HOTEL  (Fr.)-Steward  or  head- 
waiter;  the  head  man  of  a  restaurant,  next  to  the 
proprietor. 

MAITRE  D'HOTEL  SAUCE  OR  BUTTER— 
(/)-The  almost  universal  sauce  with  broiled  fish  and 
other  broiled  meatc.  It  is  nothing  but  butter  soft- 
ened and  stirred  up  with  chopped  parsley  and  lemon 
juice  in  no  particular  measure;  looks  pale  green; 
used  cold  or  at  ordinary  room  temperature  to  spread 
on  hot  fish.  (2)-HoT  MAITRE  D'HOTEL  SAUCE — 
The  cold  sauce  thrown  into  a  saucepan  with  little 
water  is  slightly  thickened  with  flour,  to  form  a 
semi-transparent  parsley  sauce  for  new  potatoes 
a  la  maitre  a  'hotel  and  for  boiled  fish. 


MAL 

MAITRE  D'HOTEL  (a  fa)— Boiled  fish  sprin- 
kled with  chopped  parsley,  or  capers  or  other  green 
and  the  above,  hot  sauce  poured  over  it;  and  broiled 
fish  or  meat  with  cold  maitre  d' hotel  butter  are  so 
denominated.  Plain  boiled  potatoes  quartered  be- 
long to  the  style  with  boiled  fish,  and  lemons  with 
broiled. 

MALDIVE  FISH— Mummalon  fish  or  "Bombay 
duck,"  an  East  Indian  fish;  canned,  sold  at  the 
fancy  grocery  stores. 

MALLARD  DUCK— The  largest  American  wild 
duck,  the  original  stock  of  the  tame  duck  of  the 
same  name  and  markings.  This  duck  is  extremely 
plentiful  in  the  lake  region  in  the  fall  season ;  car- 
loads are  brought  to  Chicago  where  the  surplus  is 
kept  in  a  frozen  state  for  sale  in  the  spring  when 
other  game  is  out  of  season.  The  mallard  is  among 
water  fowl  what  the  prairie  hen  is  among  the  vari- 
eties of  the  grouse  family,  the  fleshiest,  heaviest, 
tenderest,  and  in  a  general  way  the  most  valuable. 
Stewards  sending  for  game  by  the  barrel  do  well  to 
order  mallards.  MALLARD  DUCK  A  L'AMERICAINE- 
Ducks  roasted  rare  in  about  25  or 30  minutes,  carved, 
pieces  between  two  dishes  kept  hot;  bones  boiled 
with  aromatics,  brown  gravy  added  to  the  liquor, 
currant  jelly  and  port  wine.  (See  Ducks.) 

MALT — The  baker  who  makes  his  own  yeast  uses 
malt  perhaps  twice  a  month  to  make  his  stock  yeast, 
the  process  for  which  is  much  the  same  as  brewing 
beer,  though  the  product  is  very  much  condensed. 
Malt  can  generally  be  purchased  at  the  nearest 
brewery.  WHAT  MALT  Is — Malt  is  barley  that  has 
been  sprouted  and  started  to  growing  by  being 
sprinkled  with  water  in  a  warm  place;  in  this  condi- 
tion it  turns  parti}-  to  sugar,  the  starch  in  the  seed 
changing  to  sweetness.  At  the  right  stage,  before 
the  sprout  turns  green,  the  barley  is  dried  on  a  hot 
metal  floor  with  a  constant  stirring.  It  is  then  malt. 
Other  grains  are  treated  in  the  same  way  for  pur- 
poses of  distillation;  thus  there  is  malted  wheat  and 
malted  rye.  MALT  BREAD — Specialty  or  novelty. 
Bread  made  with  a  proportion  of  the  flour  from 
malted  wheat.  MALT  BROWN  BREAD — English  pat- 
ent. "The  digestive  quality  of  malted  barley  are 
fully  recognized,  and  the  idea  of  blending  it  with 
granular  wheat-flour  in  the  bakery  has  proved  a 
happy  one,  for  the  resulting  bread,  while  appetizing 
and  well  flavored,  is  soft  and  moist  even  after  sev- 
eral days'  keeping."  MALT  WINE  —  "There  is  a 
great  craze  at  present  for  malt  wine.  Some  years 
ago  it  was  very  fashionable  when  the  malt  coffees 
and  malt  breads  first  began  to  tickle  the  palates  of 
the  epicures.  It  is  beginning  to  look  up  again,  as 
some  of  the  great  lights  of  the  medical  profession 
have  been  recommending  it  to  august  patients." 
Made  of  14  Ibs.  loaf  sugar,  9  qts.  boiling  water 
poured  upon  it,  and6gls.  sweet  wort  from  the  brew- 
ers; remains  in  a  mash-tub  to  ferment  for  2  days; 
then  put  into  a  keg  with  another  pound  sugar  and 
ij^  Ibs.  raisins;  to  be  filled  up  daily  as  it  ferments 


368 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


MAX 

and  runs  over,  i  oz.  gelatine  dissolved  and  whipped 
to  froth  added ;  bunged  tight ;  bottled  6  months  after. 
Instead  of  brewers'  sweet  wort,  8  gls.  water,  hot, 
on  a  bushel  of  malt  and  J^  Ib.  hops,  boiled  and 
strained. 

MAXDARIX  ORAXGE— A  small  variety  of  or- 
ange; very  sweet;  flattened  somewhat  in  shape. 
Gives  the  name  "mandarine"  to  jellies,  and  orna- 
mental pieces  formed  of  candied  oranges. 

MAXGO— Fruit  of  the  West  Indies,  Florida,  and 
Mexico.  "One  of  the  most  delicious  products  of  the 
tropics  is  the  mango,  the  eating  of  which,  however,* 
is  apt  at  first  to  embarrass- and  perplex  a  stranger  to 
no  small  degree.  In  shape  the  mango  resembles  a 
pear  with  the  ste.m  at  the  wrong  end,  flattened,  how- 
ever, like  a  bean,  and  with  the  small  end  turned  over 
to  one  side,  something  like  the  figures  common  on 
cashmere  shawls.  One  large  variety  is  entirely  yel- 
low, and  a  smaller  kind  is  yellow  with  rich  red 
cheeks,  offering  tempting  hues  for  a  still-life  painter. 
Inside  is  a  very  large  seed,  which  forms  a  consider- 
able impediment  to  the  enjoyment  of  the  inexperi- 
enced, for  the  pulp  is  joined  to  this  in  a  stringy  way, 
and  it  is  difficult  to  handle  the  slippery  thing.  A 
thoroughly  ripe  mango  has  a  kind  of  combination  of 
muskmelon  and  baked  custard  aspect  and  texture  to 
its  deep  yellow  pulp,  and  its  rich  flavor  is  indescrib- 
able, except  that,  when  eaten  for  the  first  time,  it 
seems  to  have  a  slight  trace  of  turpentine,  which  re- 
semblance, however,  disappears  on  acquaintance. 
The  large  yellow  variety  seemed  to  me  to  have  a  vsry 
slight  and  delicate  flavor  of  peanut  candy.  The  per- 
son who  eats  mango  for  the  first  time  generally  cov- 
ers himself  with  confusion  and  his  face  with  mango 
pulp  and  jtiicej  which  is  very  sticky  and  yellow,  so 
that  he  looks  as  if  somebody  had  been  feeding  him 
with  soft-boiled  eggs  in  the  dark.  It  will  not  do  to 
eat  a  mango  as  one  would  an  ordinary  fruit,  the  cor- 
rect way  being  to  use, a  mango- fork,  which  has  but 
one  tine,  and  therefore  is  really  not  a  fork  at  all,  but 
a  spit.  With  this  the  fruit  is  impaled  at  one  end 
and  the  point  thrust  firmly  in  the  seed,  which  may 
thus  be  stripped  of  its  last  pulp  without  soiling  the 
fingers." 

MAXGO  PICKLES— Xot  the  mango  of  the 
tropics,  but  stuffed  young  melons  or  cucumbers. 
The  cucumbers  or  young  muskmelons  have  a  piece 
cut  out  to  admit  a  spoon  and  the  inside  scooped  out; 
they  are  filled  with  a  variety  of  other  small  kinds  of 
pickling  vegetables,  with  horse-radish,  mustard 
seed,  etc.,  the  cut  piece  replaced,  tied  or  sewed,  then 
put  through  the  usual  pickling  process  of  pouring 
boiling  vinegar  on  them  4  successive  davs. 

MAX GOSTEEX— "Travelers  in  Java  have  filled 
pages  and  columns  with  rhapsodies  over  the  mango- 
steen,  and  all  unite  in  extolling  it  as  the  supreme 
delight  of  the  tropics.  The  mangosteen  appears  to 
one  as  a  hard  round  fruit  the  size  of  a  peach.  Its 
hard  outer  shell  or  rind  is  of  the  same  color  and 
thickness  as  a  green  walnut,  hut  in  this  brown  husk 


MAR 

lie  six  or  eight  segments  of  creamy  white  pulp. 
I  The  little  segments  are  easily  separated,  and  trans- 
ferred to  the  mouth  melt  away,  the  pulp  being  as 
soft  and  fine  as  custard.  The  mangosteen's  delicate 
pulp  tastes,  as  all  its  eulogists  say,  like  strawberries, 
peaches,  bananas,  and  oranges  all  at  once;  a  slight 
tartness  is  veiled  in  these  delicious  flavors,  and  it  is 
never  cloyingly  sweet.  Taken  just  as  it  comes  from 
the  ice  box  the  mangosteen  is  an  epicure's  dream 
realized,  and  the  more's  the  pity  that  it  only  grows 
in  far-away  places  and  deadly  climates,  and  does 
not  bear  transportation." — "  It  is  an  old  story,"  says 
an  author,  "that  the  traditional  resident  of  Calcutta 
thought  it  worth  a  man's  wh  le  to  make  the  voyage 
from  England  to  Calcutta  by  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope  and  back  only  to  eat  one  mango  at  the  proper 
season.  But  the  majority  will  probably  concur  with 
me  that  the  fruit  of  the  East— the  mangoes,  leeches, 
guavas,  custard -apples,  tipparees,  and  pomegran- 
ates— can  bear  no  comparison  with  the  fruit  of  the 
West. 

MAXISTEE  FISH— "One  of  the  leading  restau- 
rants at  Chicago  had  a  novelty  on  its  bill  of  fare 
last  week,  it  being  the  first  time  that  Manistee  beef 
was  ever  placed  before  the  Chicago  public.  Though 
called  beef,  it  is  in  fact  the  flesh  of  a  fish  extremely 
rare  in  these  parts.  The  Manistee  is  a  fish  the  size 
of  a  sturgeon,  found  only  in  the  Manistee  river,  in 
Florida.  It  is  sightless,  but  acute  of  hearing.  It  is 
speared  by  the  negroes,  by  whom  it  is  highly  prized 
as  food,  and  occasionally  is  to  be  found  in  the  mar- 
kets of  Xew  Orleans  and  Mobile,  but  is  seldom 
fouv.d  in  this  locality.  The  flesh  is  coarse  and  much 
resembles  beef,  though  retaining  the  fishy  flavor. 
Scientists  have  never  been  able  to  discover  the  ori- 
gin of  the  fish,  but  inclined  to  the  belief  that  it  rises 
from  some  subterranean  stream  or  lake  and  has  in- 
creased and  multiplied  in  the  Manistee  river,  but, 
o.ving  to  its  lack  of  sight,  it  has  not  been  able  to 
make  its  way  into  other  bodies  of  water." 

MAXSFIELD  PUDDING— Rich  bread  pudding 
baked;  made  of  4  oz.  crumbs  of  French  rolls  wet 
with  a  cup  of  boiling  milk,  2  eggs,  3  oz.  suet  mixed 
with  i  tablespoon  flour,  4  spoons  currants,  2  spoons 
sugar,  i  spoon  cream,  i  spoon  brandy,  nutmeg;  all 
beaten  together  for  5  minutes. 

MAQUEREAU  (Fr.)— Mackerel. 

MARASCHIXO— A  cordial  made  from  the  seed 
of  a  particular  sort  of  Italian  cherry,  with  syrup 
and  spirits  of  wine.  It  is  one  of  the  most  admired 
flavorings  for  jellies,  creams,  charlotte  russe,  ices, 
and  sweet  sauces.  It  is,  however,  difficult  to  get 
the  genuine,  and  the  flavor  of  the  imitations,  though 
pleasant,  is  not  so  remarkable.  It  comes  in  quart 
flasks  in  wicker  coverings,  price  about  $2  per  flask. 
BRITISH  MARASCHINO — Is  made  from  2  Ibs.  of 
lump  sugar  made  into  clear  syrup  with  i  pt.  of 
water,  a  half-ounce  bottle  of  almond  essence,  I 
bottle  of  cherry  syrup  prepared  without  acid;  one 
tablespoonful  of  elder  flower  -vater,  color  up  to  the 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


369 


MAR 

proper  maraschino  color  if  too  f.iint,  bottle  and  seal 
with  red  wax.  This  is  easily  and  quickly  made,  and 
is  sold  under  the  name  of  British  maraschino. 
SOUFFLE  GLACE  AU  MARASQUIN— An  iced  souffle 
with  maraschino.  GELEE  AU  MARASQUIN— Mara- 
schino jelly. 

MARBLE  CAKE— Cake  having  marble  streaks 
of  another  color  of  cake  all  through  it,  as  white 
cake  with  veins  of  chocolate  interspersed,  or  pound 
cake  with  pink  wine  cake. 

MARBLE  CREAM— Any  of  the  gelatine  creams 
broken  apart  and  moulded  solid  again  by  pouring 
in  warm  melted  cream  of  another  color  to  make 
veins  and  screaks. 

MARBLE  GENOISE-  A  sheet  of  genoise  cake 
spread  with  white  water  icing  and  streaked  with 
colored  icing  while  still  wet. 

MARCASSIX — "Marcassin  is,  in  French  sports- 
man's phraseology,  a  young  wild  boar.  Its  saddle 
is  served  roasted  and  carefully  larded.  Wild  boar  is 
just  at  present  being  greatly  eaten  in  Paris,  and  is 
seen  at  all  the  better-class  magasins  de  comestibles. 
At  most  it  is  sold  ready-larded,  at  prices  varying 
from  i  franc  60  centimes  to  2  francs  40  centimes  the 
pound." 

MARINADE  —  A  bath  of  oil  and  vinegar  or 
lemon  juice,  together  with  some  aromatics,  such  as 
bay -leaves,  thyme,  onion,  or  according  to  the  kind 
of  meat  to  be  marinaded  or  pickled,  and  salt  and 
pepper.  The  use  of  it  is  to  steep  meat  or  fish  an  hour 
or  more  before  coqking  to  give  them  flavor  and  suc- 
culency.  A  dish  of  pieces  of  cooked  brains,  chick- 
ens or  other  cold  meat  steeped  in  this  and  afterwards 
in  batter  and  fried,  is  called  a  marinade  of  that  par- 
ticular kind  of  meat. 

MARLBOROUGH  CAKES- Dry  kind  of  sponge 
cake  with  caraway  seeds;  baked  in  long  tins;  some- 
times sliced  and  dried  in  the  o%'en  for  wine  rusks. 
Made  of  i  Ib.  sugar,  8  eggs  beaten  %  hour,  i  Ib. 
flour,  2  oz.  caraway  seeds.  Also  makes  good  lady- 
fingers. 

MARMALADE — Word  generally  used  in  this 
country  instead  of  jam.  All  kinds  of  fruit  are  boiled 
with  sugar  to  the  condition  of  jam  or  marmalade. 

MARROXS  (Fr.) -Chestnuts. 

MARROXS  GLACES— Candied  chestnuts.  (See 
Crystallized  Fruits.)  "One  set  of  workers  skin  the 
chestnut,  carefully  separating  it  from  the  inner  husk. 
They  then  pass  through  a  number  of  other  hands  in 
the  preserving  process,  and  when  complete  they  are 
turned  over  to  yet  another  set  of  women  to  be  put  in 
neat  boxes,  or  tied  up  in  dainty  glazed  paper-bags." 

MARROW— Only  obtained  in  quantity  large 
enough  to  cook  from  the  leg-bones  of  beef,  espec- 
ially the  bone  in  the  round.  MARROW  TOAST — Mar- 
row cut  thin,  seasoned,  laid  close  together  upon  toast, 
baked  on  top-shelf  of  oven;  served  hot.  MARROW 
AUX  FINES  HERBES — Marrow  scalded  a  few  min- 
utes in  hot  water,  taken  up  and  cooled,  broken  up 


MAS 

and  mixed  with  chopped  mushrooms,  parsley,  onion; 
bread-crumbs  in  the  bottom  of  buttered  paper  cases, 
marrow  mixture  to  fill  up,  crumbs  on  top;  baked  15 
minutes;  served  on  a  napkin.  MARROW  PATTIES — 
Chopped  marrow  seasoned,  cream,  beaten  egg;  patty 
pans  lined  with  puff  paste;  marrow  filling;  baked. 
MARROW  QUENELLES— Half  pound  each  marrow 
and  bread-crumbs,  i  small  tablespoon  flour,  5  yolks, 
i  egg,  salt,  pepper;  work  up  to  smooth  paste,  shape 
with  two  teaspoons,  poach  in  boiling  salt  water. 
For  garnishing,  for  soups,  or  served  with  sauce  in 
a  vegetable  border.  MARROW  DUMPLINGS — Mar- 
row from  two  beef  bones  chopped  and  melted,  2  eggs, 
salt,  pepper,  little  nutmeg,  crushed  soda-crackers 
enough  to  make  paste  of  it;  boiled  in  sjnall  balls;  to 
serve  with  meat  or  soup.  MARROW  SAUCE  FOR 
STEAKS — Brown  sauce  made  with  chopped  shallots, 
butter,  white  wine,  espagnole.  salt,  pepper,  parsley; 
beef-marrow  in  slices  dipped  in,boiling  water  in  a 
strainer1  for  a  minute,  spread  on  the  steaks ;  the  sauce 
poured  over  and  around.  MOELLE  DE  BCF.UF  A  LA 
ORLY — Beef  marrow  cut  in  long  strips,  dipped  in 
batter  and  fried ;  tomato  sauce.  BOUCHEES  A  LA  Mo- 
K:.LE— Small  patties  (vol-au-rents)  filled  with  mar- 
row chopped  and  simmered  in  a  savory  sauce  of 
cream,  shallot,  chives,  etc.  PETITES  CROUSTADES 
A  LA  MOELLE — The  same  as  for  bouchees;  filled  into 
little  cases  of  fried  bread;  crumbs  on  top;  browned. 
MARROW  PUDDING — A  sweet  pudding  steamed; 
made  same  as  plain  plum  pudding,  using  melted 
marrow  instead  of  suet  or  butter. 

MARROW  FRANGIPAXE— Not  made  of  mar- 
row; only  a  name  of  almond  pastry  custard  baked  in 
center  of  a  rice -paste-lined  mould,  sugared  over  the 
ontside  when  done.  A  timbale  of  almond  frangi- 
pane. 

MARSHMALLOW— An  edible  plant;  the  roots 
are  sliced,  boiled  and  candied. 

MARSHMALLOW  CAXDY— A  name  and  im- 
itation; made  like  gum  drops,  of  2  Ibs.  each  gum 
arabic,  fine  sugar,  water  and  glucose;  the  gum  pul- 
verized and  dissolved  in  the  water,  glucose  and 
sugar  added,  S.nd  boiled  on  a  very  slow  fire;  3  whites 
to  every  pound  beaten  light  and  mixed  in,  and  the 
whole  beaten  for  }^  hour;  forced  through  a  tube  into 
starch  moulds,  cut  from  the  nozzle  of  the  forcer  with 
a  knife. 

MARZIPANS— Massepains. 

MASSEPAINS— Almond  paste  cakes  made  of  12 
oz.  sweet  almonds,  ij^lbs.  powdered  sugar,  4  whites. 
Almonds  blanched,  dried,  pounded  in  a  mortar  with 
the  white  of  eggs,  sugar  pounded  into  them,  makes 
a  paste  which  is  forced  through  a  lady -finger  tube 
in  a  cord  on  powdered  sugar,  formed  in  rings  and 
curves  on  pans;  baked  in  a  nearly  cold  oven.  GER- 
MAN MASSEPAINS  OR  MARCHPANES— One  pound 
sweet  almonds,  i  oz.  bitter  almonds,  i  Ib.  sugar, 
little  rose-water:  almonds  pounded  with  rose-water, 
stirred  with  sugar  in  saucepan  over  the.fire  till  a  firm 


370 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


MAT 

paste;  when  cool,  rolled  out  in  powdered  sugar,  cut 
in  cakes,  slightly  baked. 

MATELOTK — A  fish-stew,  consisting  of  a  prin- 
cipal fish  in  large  pieces,  with  oysters,  mussels,  but- 
ton mushrooms,  button  onions,  etc.,  and  wine;  to 
serve  as  a  garnish.  MATELOTE  SAUCE  —  Brown; 
button  onions  glazed  by  frying  in  butter  and  sugar, 
flour  added,  and  broth,  herbs,  seasonings,  wine; 
herbs  taken  out,  and  extract  of  meat,  essence  of  an- 
chovy, coloring,  mushrooms  and  oysters  added. 
M ATELOTE  NORM ANDE-Cream -colored;  white  sauce 
made  of  fish-broth  and  oyster-liquor  thickened  with 
yolks;  lemon  juice,  butter,  mushrooms,  oysters, 
scallops,  mussels,  shrimps,  crav-fish,  little  white 
wine.  Serves  as  sauce  and  garnish,  to  fish  en  Mate- 
lote Normande. 

MAUVIETTE  (Fr.)— Lark.  Same  as  alouette. 
Different  names  equivalent  to  meadow -lark,  sky- 
lark. (See  Alouette,  Lark.) 

MAYONNAISE— Salad  sauce;  also  cold  sauce 
for  fish.  Made  by  putting  into  a  bowl  two  or  more 
raw  yolks,  little  dry  mustard,  and  stirring  in  drop  by 
drop  olive-oil,  then  some  salt,  then  lemon  juice  or 
vinegar,  also  by  drops  alternately  with  the  oil,  con- 
tinuing to  thicken  it  by  adding  oil  and  thinning  with 
vinegar  and  lemon  juice  until  sufficient;  must  be 
twice  as  much  oil  used  as  vinegar.  Two  points  to 
observe  are  to  begin  stirring  the  yolks  with  only  a 
few  drops  of  oil  at  the  start;  and,  to  add  the  salt  after 
one-third  the  oil  is  in.  A  teaspoon  powdered  sugar 
and  pinch  cayenne  to  finish;  2  yolks  will  take  up  a 
cupful  of  oil.  The  sauce  should  be  thick  enough  to 
spread  over  a  dome  of  salad  without  running  off.  It 
becomes  firmer  by  standing  on  ice  a  while. 

MAYONNAISE  ASPIC-Good.firm  aspic-jelly 
barely  melted  stirred  into  an  equal  quantity  of  ma- 
yonnaise. It  makes  a  glossy  yellow  mayonnaise- 
jelly  for  ornamental  cold-meat  dishes  and  salads. 

MAYONNAISES— Term  equivalent  to  salads. 
All  dishes  dressed  with  mayonnaise.  A  mayonnaise 
of  lobster,  of  salmon,  of  chicken,  of  shrimps.  Some 
salads  have  no  such  sauce,  or  dressing,  therefore  the 
term  is  distinctive. 

MAZARINS— Moulds  of  fish,  fillets  of  chicken  or 
anything  similar,  set  with  aspic  jelly  or  aspic  mayon- 
naise, and  turned  out  when  cold. 

M AZ ARIN  CAKE— A  raised  loaf  of  butter  cake, 
not  sweet,  baked  in  a  mould  lined  with  almonds,  cut 
in  halves,  and  rum  pudding  sauce  poured  over  it. 

MEAD—  Honey  wine.  "In  the  time  of  King  Ar- 
thur and  his  Knights  of  the  Round  Table,  the  drink 
that  was  prepared  for  royal  use  was  'mead.'  Mead 
kept  its  place  at  the  tables  of  the  rich  and  the  great 
for  a  considerable  time,  and  yet  for  centuries  it  seems 
to  have  fallen  quite  out  of  account.  It  is  as  little 
thought  of  now  as  nepenthe,  the  drink  of  the  gods 
on  Mount  Olympus;  and  yet  mead,  we  believe,  can 
be  made  a  very  pleasant  drink.  A  continental  paper 
gives  a  recipe  for  its  preparation.  Honey  is  the 


MEL 

sweetening  constituent  used.  Forty  to  forty -five 
litres  of  water  are  put  into  a  cauldron,  with  10  litres 
honey;  boil  the  mixture  for  i %  hours,  during  which 
time  skim  off  the  scum.  The  liquid  is  then  put  into 
a  cask  to  ferment  for  3  weeks." — "The  natives  of 
Madagascar  make  a  honey  wine  which  is  composed 
of  three  parts  water  to  one  part  honey.  They  boil  the 
water  and  honey  together,  and  skim  after  the  mix- 
ture is  reduced  to  three-fourths.  It  is  then  put  in 
pots  of  black  earth  to  ferment.  It  has  a  pleasant 
tartish  taste,  but  is  very  luscious."  ENGLISH  MEAD- 
Ten  pounds  honey,  6  gls.  water,  few  mixed  spices; 
boiled  an  hour;  when  cool,  some  yeast  spread  on 
toast  put  in.  When  fermentation  ceases,  the  keg 
bunged  up,  kept  in  a  cellar;  bottled  after  6  months. 

MECCA  LOAVES— Boston  cream-puffs. 

MEDAILLONS  (Fr.)— Medallions.  Small  round 
shapes  of  potted  meat,  or  jellied  meat,  like  pats  of 
butter;  decorated.  MEDAILLONS  DE  FOIE  GRAS — 
Biscuit-shapes  of  pate  de  foie  ffras  variously  orna- 
mented. 

MELEE  CREAM— For  cakes  and  pastries;  made 
of  i  Ib.  sugar,  i  doz.  eggs  whipped  together  %  hour 
over  hot  water  or  slow  fire,  and  J^  hour  more  on  ice; 
dissolved  gelatine,  i  oz.  in  J^  cup  water,  added  while 
mixture  is  still  warm.  Spirits,  flavoring  essences  or 
chopped  figs  as  preferred.  It  makes  a  creamy  sponge 
to  fill  a  border-cake  with.  (See  Gateaux.) 

MELON  — "Although  in  Europe  the  melon  is 
generally  eaten  with  salt  and  pepper  after  the  soup, 
in  this  country  on  account  of  its  fragrance  and  sweet- 
ness it  is  preferred  between  the  cheese  and  dessert." 
It  is  served  on  a  folded  napkin  with  broken  ice,  the 
seeds  having  been  removed  previously.  COMPOTE 
OF  MELON-Canteloupe  or  muskmelon  slightly  green 
sliced,  pared,  boiled  in  syrup  made  of  i  Ib.  sugar  to 
%  pt.  water,  and  flavored  with  wine  or  lemon;  served 
as  compote  of  fruit  with  rice  or  croules.  MELON 
PRESERVE — (/)  Slices  of  melon  dropped  into  hot 
syrup  and  allowed  to  remain  till  next  day;  the  syrup 
poured  off,  boiled,  poured  boiling  hot  to  the  melon- 
slices;  repeat  for  3  days.  (2)  Melon -slices  steeped  in 
cold  water,  vinegar  and  sail  24  hours;  drained,  put 
in  cold  syrup,  gradually  heated  to  boiling;  taken  up, 
syrup  boiled  and  poured  over  3  successive  days. 
MELON  MANGOES— Small, late  melons,  green,  inside 
scooped  out,  put  in  brine  24  hours,  filled  up  with 
small  onions,  beans,  cauliflower,  etc.,  and  mustard- 
seed  and  horseradish;  boiling  vinegar  with  spices 
poured  over  5  successive  days.  MELON  SALAD — It 
makes  one  of  the  best  fruit  salads.  Peel  cut  into 
small  blocks;  dress  it  with  i  tablespoonful  of  oil,  in 
which  you  have  mixed  a  small  saltspoonful  of  salt; 
toss  the  melon  gently  in  it,  then  use  i  or  2  more 
spoonfuls  of  oil,  according  to  the  quantity  of  fruit 
you  have,  and  vinegar  in  proportion  of  %  the  oil; 
pepper  to  taste.  MELON-WATER  ICE — Ripe  melon 
pounded  through  a  seive,  sugar,  water,  glucose, 
lemon  juice;  frozen.  PRESERVED  WATER-MELON 
KIND — The  rind  souked  in  brine,  then  in  cold  water, 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


371 


MEL 

then  boiled  in  strong  syrup,  with  ginger  to  flavor, 
makes  one  of  the  best  of  preserves;  and  if  taken  from 
the  syrup  and  dried  to  the  condition  of  glace  fruits, 
is  a  most  useful  ingredient  in  ornamental  pastry  and 
confectionery  work.  KEEPING  MELONS — Water- 
melons are  now  kept  in  a  frozen  state  by  cold  storage. 

MELON  MOULDS— Tin  moulds  of  graded  sizes 
in  the  form  of  a  half  muskmelon.  Can  be  found  at 
'most  large  tin  and  furnishing  shops.  They  are  used 
to  steam  puddings  in,  to  press  salads  in  to  be  turned 
out  and  spread  over  afterwards  with  mayonnaise,  to 
set  ornamental  jellies  and  cream  in,  and  to  freeze 
mousses  and  other  ices. 

MENEHOULD,  S AINTE  —  Name  of  a  town. 
"Among  French  towns,  Sainte-Menehould,  Mont- 
lieliard,  and  Saverne,  all  possess  a  special  celebrity 
for  the  manufacture  of  comestibles,  in  which  the 
flesh  of  swine  composes  the  principal  ingredient.  A 
special  production  of  Sainte-Menehould  is  the  pig's 
foot  truffled." 

MERINGUE  -Name  of  the  white  mixture  of 
sugar  and  white  of  egg,  which  in  the  soft  form  is 
spread  over  lemon  pies  and  the  like,  and  baked;  in  a 
firmer  condition  is  the  icing  with  which  cakes  are 
iced  and  ornamented.  SOFT  MERINGUE — For  the 
tops  of  puddings,  cup  custards,  etc. ;  made  of  i  oz. 
sugar  or  little  more  to  each  white;  white  of  eggs 
whipped  up  separately,  sugar  stirred  in;  very  slack 
baked  to  fawn  color.  ICING  MERINGUE  —From  3  to 
6  whites  to  each  pound  of  sugar;  mixed  by  barely 
wetting  the  sugar  with  3  or  4  whites  and  beating 
with  a  paddle  for  15  or  20  minutes;  more  whites  can 
,  be  \vorked  in,  according  to  the  purpose  intended. 
FRUIT  MERINGUES — Sheet  of  cake  spread  with  ripe 
raw  fruit,  covered  with  soft  meringue,  granulated 
sugar  sifted  on  top;  baked  in  very  slack  oven. 
FLORENTINE  MERINGUE— Sheet  of  tart  paste  spread 
with  marmalade,  covered  with  soft  meringue;  baked. 
MERINGUES  A  LA  CREME— Stiff  meringue  having 
5  or  6  whites  worked  into  the  pound  of  sugar  and 
little  acid  (see  Icinff)  dropped  on  paper  on  boards,  to 
prevent  the  bottoms  from  baking;  slack  baked,  either 
put  by  twos  together  with  their  own  softness  inside, 
or  insides  scooped  out  and  filled  with  whipped  cream. 
BORDER  MERINGUES- -Stiff  meringue  laid  with  a 
sack  and  tube  forcer  in  circles  size  of  a  saucer  on 
paper,  sugar  sifted  over;  baked  very  light-colored 
and  dry;  removed  from  paper  by  wetting,  rings  piled 
on  each  other  3  or  4  high,  ornamented  with  icing, 
center  filled  with  whipped  cream,  melee  cream,  or 
bavarian  with  strawberries.  MERINGUE  PANACHEE- 
Meringue  shells  filled  with  ice  cream,  made  same  as 
meringue  a  la  creme  above;  dried  after  emptying; 
served  singly  like  shells  filled  with  different  colors 
of  ice  cream.  MERINGUE  A  LA  PARISIENNE — The 
border  meringues  above,  piped  with  currant  jelly. 

MERLUCHE  (Fr.)-Haddock. 

METZELSUP— "Every  well-regulated  Pennsyl- 
vania-Dutch farmer  kills  at  least  two  fat  pigs  every 
fall.  The  butchering  is  a  grand  affair,  and  all  the 


MEX 

neighbors  join  in  and  help.  When  the  hogs  are 
killed,  dressed  and  cut  up,  certain  portions  are  set 
apart  for  those  who  helped  in  the  butchering,  and 
for  gifts  to  poor  widows  in  the  neighborhood.  This 
is  distributed  with  a  liberal  hand,  and  is  called  the 
metzelsup.  The  farmer  who  forgets  the  metzelsup 
is  looked  upon  as  one  for  whom  perdition  surely 
yawns."  METZEL  SOUP  DINNER  —  "Mr.  Thomas 
Brown,  of  the  Enterprise  Hotel,  Stapleton,  Staten 
Island,  has  given  a  '  metzeJ  soup '  dinner  this  as  in 
previous  years.  He  had  a  large  and  happy  company 
present  to  enjoy  his  hospitality." 

MEXICAN  COOKERY— Remarks  of  friendly 

critics  at  the  Capital.     "A  fair  sample  of  the  dinner 

bill  of  fare  served  for  a  dollar  has  been  presented. 

Here  is  one  for  half  a  dollar,  just  as  taken  from  the 

table  of  the  Gillow  Restaurant: 

,—Sopas. — , 

Consome. 

Sopa  de  pescado. 

Macarroni. 

/ — Pescados. — > 

Huachinango. 

Con  alcaparras. 

Huevos  al  gusto. 

Beefsteaks. 

Costillas  de  ternera. 

Id.  de  carnero. 

Id.  milanesas. 

Puchero. 

Polla  a  la  Toulousa. 
Hijaditos  de  carnero  a  la  lionesa. 

Conejo  con  ungos. 
Fricando  a  la  macedonia. 
Alcachopas  a  la  diabla. 
Guisado  a  la  napolitana. 

Roast  beef. 

Manilas  en  especia. 

Pierna  al  horno. 

Frijoles. 

Ejotes. 

Fruta.     Duke.     Cafe.    Te. 
Piatillos  sueltos,  uno  y  medio  real. 

Comida  Cuatro  Reales. 

The  explanation  at  the  bottom  of  the  bill  is  that  a 
single  dish,  if  the  customer  does  not  want  the  whole 
dinner,  will  be  given  for  a  real  and  a  medio,  18  cents; 
or  everything  on  the  bill  will  be  served  for  4  reals, 
half  a  dollar.  Sopa  is  the  soup,  of  which  three  kinds 
are  offered.  Pescados  is  the  fish,  of  course.  Huevos 
the  reader  already  recognizes  as  eggs.  After  beef- 
steaks come  the  chops,  veal,  pork,  or  mutton.  Pu- 
chero is  'boiled,'  and/*o//o  is  enough  like  poultry  to 
give  a  clue  to  what  it  really  is— the  chicken.  Then 
follow  five  different  kinds  of  stewed  meats,  and  after 
these  the  roasts;  and  not  a  few  of  those  dining  will 
:  go  leisurely  through  the  whole  bill,  occupying  from 
I  one  to  three  hours  in  the  agreeable  occupation  of 
getting  their  money's  worth.  Frijoles  and  ejotes  are 
beans  and  more  beans,  or  baked  beans  and  string 
'  beans.  For  fruta  the  waiter  brings  a  plate  of  bana- 
nas, limes,  and  melons.  Diilce  is  the  pudding  or 
sweets  and  cafe  is  poured  out  in  the  cup  before  the 
guest — black  ceffee  until  he  says  'stop,'  and  hot  milk 
added  until  the  cup  is  full.  And  yet  Americans  go 
home  and  say  they  cannot  get  '  a  square  meal '  in 
Mexico.  Descending  thescale,  there  are  the  3  reals. 


372 


THE    STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


MEX 

the  2  reals  and  the  i  real  restaurants.  For  12%  cents 
a  wholesome  meal  may  be  had  in  Mexico  —  not  elab- 
orate, but  satisfying  to  a  hungry  man.  And  still 
cheaper  are  the  coffee  and  lunch  stands,  where,  for  a 
medio  (which  is  a  half  real,  6cts.)  bread,  meat,  and 
coffee  in  generous  quantities  may  be  had.  A  quar- 
tilla  (the  fourth  of  a  real,  3  cts.)  buys  a  cup  of  coffee 
and  a  large  roll  at  any  one  of  the  hundreds  of  little 
coffee  houses  scattered  through  the  districts  where 
the  poorer  people  live.  If  there  is  any  criticism  to 
be  passed  upon  the  food  of  the  country,  it  is  in  the 
over-abundance  of  meat  dishes.  Even  the  entries 
are  freshly  cooked.  Mexico  is  a  semi-tropical  clime, 
and  f  niits  abound.  Nevertheless  it  is  quite  the  proper 
thing  to  sit  down  and  go  through  the  bill  of  fare  — 
soup,  eggs,  a  beefsteak  or  a  mutton  chop,  chicken, 
the  roast  beef,  and  so  on,  finishing  with  the  vegeta- 
bles, one  after  the  other,  for,  as  already  said,  the  table 
etiquette  of  the  country  prescribes  one  dish  at  a  time.'' 
FRUIT  FOR  BREAKFAST  —  "It  is  a  custom  to  precede 
coffee  with  an  indulgence  in  fruit,  which  is  deli- 
cious and  cheap  in  this  country  and  is  regarded  as 
particularly  healthful  at  this  time  of  day,  and  the 
great  basketful  set  before  one  is  tempting  enough  j 
in  richness,  variety  of  colors  and  shapes."  GRASS- 
HOPPERS AND  SHRIMPS  —  "In  the  markets  of  Mex- 
ico both  these  lively  little  creatures  are  to  be  found 
in  the  same  condition  as  whitebait  when  it  appeals 
to  the  palate  of  the  gourmet,  viz.,  fried  whole,  and 
they  are  eaten  in  the  same  way."  Mexico  is  now  a 
great  center  for  the  manufacture  of  crystallized 
fruits.  Apples,  pears,  crab  apples,  nuts,  quinces, 
peaches,  figs,  oranges,  lemons,  limes,  guavas,  cac- 
tus leaves,  and  other  varieties  of  tropical  fruits  are 
put  up  in  forms  as  pleasing  to  the  eye  as  they  are 
exquisite  in  taste.  A  delicious  confection  is  also 
made  from  sweet  potatoes;  another  is  dried  bananas. 
They  are  all  equal,  if  they  do  not  excel,  the  best 
French  preserves  and  sweets.  They  are  absolutely 
unadulterated  and  are  very  cheap.  AN  UNFRIENDLY 
CRITIC  IN  THE  COUNTRY  —  "The  reception  was  held 
in  a  large  arbor,  erected  for  the  purpose,  of  wild 
cane  -stalks  thatched  with  straw.  As  usual,  the  men 
retained  their  hats  and  smoked  incessantly  between 
and  during  every  course.  Tortillas  were  continu- 
ally sent  in,  hot  from  the  griddle  —  made  by  women 
secreted  in  a  hut  somewhere  in  tha  rear—  and  piled 
in  a  steaming  heap  in  front  of  the  alcadi,  who  distrib- 
uted them  around  with  an  easy  and  graceful  scuffle, 
something  as  an  expert  player  deals  his  cards.  Now 
and  then  fresh  water  was  passed  in  mugs,  it  being 
the  elegant  fashion  for  each  guest  to  fill  his  mouth, 
draw  it  noisily  to  and  fro  between  his  teeth,  then 
eject  it  upon  the  floor.  The  menu,  as  nearly  as  it 
can  be  rendered  in  English,  was  as  follows: 

Cigarettes. 

Caldo  (broth)  with  garlic,  chilli  and  cigarettes. 
Sopa  —  stewed  in  grease  and  garnished  with  chilli. 

Cigarettes. 
Pucharo—  stuff  of  every  description,  fish,  flesh,  and 


fowl,  seeds,  pods,  green  fruits,  roots  and  vege- 

tables, all  boiled  together,  served  on  a  huge 

platter,  with  chilli  sauce. 


MIL 

Cigarettes. 
Chicken  stewed  with  grease  and  chilli. 

Cigarettes. 
Kid's  head  baked  with  garlic. 

Cigarettes. 
Red  beans  baked  in  oil. 

Cigarettes. 
Sweetmeats  and  coffee,  with  cigarettes. 

Tortillas  all  the  time." 

PUCHARO  —  Water,  beef,  garbanco;:  (chick  peas), 
pork,  ham,  salt  and  pepper,  leeks,  celery,  parslev,- 
mint,  cloves,  garlic,  cabbage,  pumpkin,  and  a  larg-e 
dioriso  (Bologna  sausage);  all  boiled  for  different 
lengths  of  time.  Peas  and  meat  served  together 
and  soup  aside.  MEXICAN  MUTTON'  WITH  BEANS 
— Leg  of  mutton  with  garlic  inserted;  the  outside 
fried  brown,  broth  and  gravy  added  with  chillies, 
onions,  aromatics,  simmered  in  the  gravv  2  hours; 
served  with  puree  of  Mexican  black  beans.  TOR- 
TILLAS— Corn  cakes. 

MICHAEL  ANGELO'S  PUDDING— Curd  of 
milk  turned  with  rennet,  with  fruits,  boiled  like  a 
plum  pudding.  Made  of  2j^  Ibs.  firm  drained  curd, 
10  eggs,  i  Ib.  raisins,  %  Ib.  each  preserved  green- 
gage, apricot  and  cherries,  6  oz.  each  sugar  and 
bread-crumbs,  3  oz.  citron,  i  glass  each  brandy  and 
rum,  mixed  well,  in  cloth  or  mould,  boiled  or 
steamed  5  hours;  brandy  sauce. 

MIGNON,  FILET-Minion  or  small  fillet.  Some- 
times in  the  menu,  it  means  a  small  tenderloin  beef- 
steak. If  of  fowl  it  signifies  the  smaller  of  the  two 
natural  divisions  of  the  meat  of  the  breast. 

MIGNOXETTE— One  of  the  perplexing  terms 
in  cookery  directions,  as  it  is  confounded  with  a 
plant  of  that  name.  It  means  pepper  broken  or 
coarsely  ground,  so  that  it  can  be  strained  out  of 
the  sauces  again  and  not  remain  as  powdered  pepper 
would. 

MILANAISE  GARNISH— Strips  of  macaroni, 
ham,  chicken,  truffles,  in  white  sauce  with  grated 
Parmesan.  Dishes  finished  with  this  garnish  are 
a  la  Milanaise. 

MILK— SKIMMED  OR  WATERED  MILK — To  de- 
tect whether  the  cream  has  been  removed  to  any 
great  extent,  the  old  form  of  lactometer,  now  more 
properly  called  a  creamometer,  mav  be  used.  This 
instrument  consists  simply  of  a  long  tubular  glass, 
divided  by  markings  into  one  hundred  equal  parts. 
The  milk  to  be  tested  should  be  poured  into  this 
glass  up  to  the  topmost  division,  and  set  aside  for 
from  loto  12  houri  in  summer,  or  from  15  to  16  in 
winter;  this  will  allow  ample  time  for  the  whole  of 
the  cream  to  arise,  and  the  stratum  thus  separated 
ought  to  measure  from  8  to  SJ£  divisions  on  the 
glass — /.  e.,  good  milk  should  have  from  S  to  S%  per 
cent,  of  cream.  If  the  quantity  of  cream  registers 
only  6%  per  cent.,  .either  some  of  it  must  have  been 
abstracted,  or  33  per  cent,  of  water  may  have  been 
added  to  the  milk.  In  like  manner  5  per  cent,  of 
cream  shows  that  the  milk  has  been  robbed  of  fmm 
3  to  3/4  Per  cent.,  or  diluted  with  50  per  cent,  of 
water.  But  the  milk  of  awny  varieties  of  cows  is 


THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


often  considerably  richer;  it  reaches  in  the  Alder- 
ney  breed  to  a.-  much  as  iS  per  cent.,  and  in  certain 
of  the  Scandinavian  cows,  which  are  fed  on  the  rich 
mountain  pastures  during  summer  and  on  the  same 
fod;lcr  collected  in  silos  in  winter,  an  average  quite 
as  high  is  r/.aintained  perpetually.  STARCH  IN 
MILK — Vi-yv  rarely  it  has  been  stated  that  dishonest 
dealers  add  starch  to  the  milk  to  remove  the  bluish 
tinge  due  to  previous  dilution  with  water;  but  this 
can  easily  be  detected  by  the  addition  of  a  drop  or 
two  of  tincture  of  iodine  from  the  medicine  chest, 
which  every  well-regulated  hotel  ought  to  be  pro- 
vided with.  If  starch  be  present  the  milk  will  turn 
blue.  CHALK  IN  MILK— Sometimes  chalk  has  been 
added  to  correct  the  acidity  of  milk  which  has 
"turned,"  and  aiso  to  give  it  "body;"  this  form  of 
adulteration  is  happily  of  very  rare  occurrence, 
and  can  be  at  once  detected  by  the  practiced  palate 
of  any  one  accustomed  to  the  pure  article.  If  sus- 
p-jcted,  the  milk  should  be  allowed  to  stand  aside 
in  a  quiet  place  in  a  tumbler,  and,  if  chalk  has  been 
added,  a  deposit  will  accumulate.  Pour  off  the  top 
without  disturbing  the  sediment;  pour  in  a  little 
water  and  allow  it  to  settle.  Repeat  this  again  and 
a  white  powder  will  be  left,  which  will  effervesce 
when  acid  is  added  to  it.  As  a  confirmatory  test,  add 
acetic  acid  to  the  sediment;  it  will  effervesce  and 
finally  dissolve  up  the  chalk,  and  if  to  the  clear  sol- 
ution thus  produced  a  little  oxalate  of  ammonia  sol- 
ution is  poured  in,  it  will  finally  demonstrate  the 
presence  of  chalk  by  throwing  down  a  white  pre- 
cipitate. A  GERMAN  TEST  —  For  watered  milk, 
consists  in  dipping  a  well-polished  knitting-needle 
into  a  deep  vessel  of  milk,  and  then  immediately 
withdrawing  it  in  an  upright  position.  If  the  milk 
is  pure,  a  drop  of  the  fluid  will  hang  to  the  needle; 
but  the  addition  of  even  a  small  portion  of  water 
will  prevent  the  adherence  of  the  drop.  CONDENSED 
MILK — Is  4  qts.  of  cow's  milk  from  which  3  qts.  of 
water  are  evaporated,  leaving  i  qt.  of  the  solid  con- 
stituents of  milk,  to  which  is  added  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  sugar  to  preserve  and  conserve  it.  All 
condensed  milk  thickens  with  age  in  the  hermetic- 
ally sealed  can,  but  a  little  stirring  returns  it  at  once 
to  its  former  consistency.  Milk,  although  thickened 
in  the  can,  is  in  no  manner  stale  nor  injured.  UN- 
SWEETENED CONDENSED  MILK— Is  evaporated  milk 
preserved  by  the  addition  of  boracic  acid  and  other 
chemicals,  which  give  it  a  very  slight  saline  taste. 
It  is  of  the  consistency  of  cream,  will  keep  about  a 
month,  and  is  useful  in  localities  where  fresh  milk 
is  scarce.  It  is  shipped  in  cans  from  the  places  of 
manufacture  in  New  York  and  branch  houses.  It, 
of  course,  needs  to  be  diluted  with  water,  but  serves 
as  a  substitute  for  cream  as  it  is.  DRIED  MILK — 
It  is  stated  that,  milk  has  been  successfully  solidified 
and  then  powdered  or  made  up  in  lumps.  In  either 
form  it  is  claimed  to  keep  well,  and  henceforth  milk 
is  expected  to  be  sold,  to  some  extent,  in  a  dry  form 
like  sugar.  The  desiccated  milk,  as  we  may  term 
it,  represents  fresh  cow's  milk  in  the  highest  form 


MIX 

of  concentration,  and  it  may  be  kept  an  indefinite 
time  without  deterioration.  Three  varieties  are 
tinned,  viz.,  unskimmed,  skimmed,  and  sweetened 
milks,  and  the  milk-powder  is  also  combined  with 
coffee,  chocolate,  and  tea  to  form  dry  preparations 
of  distinct  dietetic  value.  The  milk  in  powder  dis- 
solves quite  readily  in  warm  table  beverages. 
DRIED  MILK-PREPARATIONS — Milk  cannot  be  con- 
densed more  than  three-fourths  without  some  ad- 
mixture to  preserve  its  solubility,  as  it  all  turns  to  a 
kind  of  cheese.  It  may  be  kept  soluble  by  the  addi- 
tion of  sugar,  and  to  a  further  degree  by  the  addition 
of  dried  white  of  egg.  With  these  two  additions  it 
may  be  evaporated  to  dryness,  and  finally  powdered 
and  kept,  and  dissolves  easily.  Only  skimmed  milk 
should  be  so  prepared;  the  cream  would  make  it  oily 
and  rancid  in  a  short  time.  With  this  dried  or  can- 
died milk  as  a  basis  several  culinary  preparations  in 
a  powdered  state  can  be  made,  as  custard  mixtures 
with  dried  eggs,  blanc- mange  with  gelatine,  etc., 
needing  nothing  but  hot  water  in  the  prescribed  pro- 
portion to  make  the  article  as  required.  MILK  SOUP 
— See  Soups.  MILK  SHAKE — A  good  trade  is  done 
in  this  in  summer  time.  A  milk  shake  is  %  pt.  milk 
in  a  large  lemonade-glass,  a  spoonful  sugar,  shaved 
ice,  flavor  if  requested;  covered  and  shaken  to  froth. 
There  are  machines  for  shaking  them  up  3  or  4  at 
once  by  the  turn  of  a  wheel.  MILK  PUNCH — See 
Drinks.  MILK  WINE — See  Koumiss. 

MILT— The  soft  roe  of  fish. 

MINCEMEAT— Good  quality  is  made  of  3  Ibs. 
boiled  beef,  3  Ibs.  suet,  4  Ibs.  apples,  4  Ibs.  raisins, 
2  Ibs.  currants,  i  Ib.  citron,  J^  Ib.  each  lemon  and  or- 
ange peel,  juice  of  4  oranges  and  4  lemons,  4  Ibs. 
sugar,  2  nutmegs,  i  teaspoon  each  ground  allspice, 
cloves,  cinnamon,  mace,  pepper,  2  tablespoons  salt; 
ingredients  chopped  fine;  cider  enough  to  moisten. 
LEMON  MINCEMEAT  —  Two  lemons,  4  sharp  ap- 
ples, y2  Ib.  suet,  i  Ib.  currants,  %  Ib.  sugar,  2  oz. 
each  candied  lemon  peel  and  citron,  ^  nutmeg, 
pinch  of  mace;  the  lemons  to  be  pared  and  rind 
boiled,  then  minced;  juice  added  to  the  other  ingre- 
dients;, no  meat;  stand  a  week  before  using;  brandy 
if  desired. 

MINT  SAUCE  — Chopped  green  mint,  vinegar 
and  sugar;  mixed  and  served  cold.  This  is  the  sauce 
for  cold  lamb  and  mutton  in  England  and  France, 
but  is  eaten  with  hot  roast  lamb  in  this  country  where 
cold  meats  are  not  in  favor.  IMPROVED  MINT  SAUCE 
— An  'Old  Bohemian'  observes :  '.'  When  I  talk  of 
mint  sauce,  I  do  not  mean  the  wretched  mess  of  a 
few  imperfectly  chopped  dry  mint-leaves  swimming 
about  in  a  sea  of  malt  vinegar,  with  a  few  grains  of 
raw  sugar  dissolved  in  it,  which  one  gets  in  some 
dining-rooms,  and  occasionally  even  at  private  ta- 
bles, and  which  has  its  admirers,  too,  among  some 
chefs  and  blue  ribbons,  who  coolly  tell  you  that  half 
an  ounce  of  moist  sugar  will  do  for  five  fluid  ounces 
of  malt  vinegar.  I  recommend  the  following  recipe: 
Take  a  sufficiently  large  bunch  of  fresh  green  young 


374 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


MIR 

mint  to  fill,  when  finely  chopped,  two  to  three  table- 
spoonfuls;  chop  the  rind  of  a  {food-sized  lemon  very 
fine,  and  add  it  to  the  mint  in  a  sauce-tureen ;  to  four 
ounces  of  best  French  vinegar  add  one  ounce  and  a 
half  of  fresh  lemon  juice,  and  dissolve  in  this  as 
much  finely  powdered  best  loaf-sugar  as  it  will  ab- 
sorb; pour  the  solution  over  the  mint  in  the  tureen, 
and  let  it  stand  an  hour  or  so." 

MIREPOIX  (Fr  >-A  brown  broth  or  unthickened 
gravy  made  to  braise  meats  in  to  give  them  a  high 
flavor;  made  of  veal,  bacon,  ham,  onions,  carrots, 
aromatics,  wine,  broth,  butter,  salt,  pepper.  The 
meats,  etc.,  cut  and  fried  brown  in  the  butter,  wine 
and  broth  added,  simmered;  liquor  strained  off  is  the 
•mirepoix. 

MIRLITOXS  (Fr.)— Tartlets  in  patty  pans  with 
a  pastry  bottom  crust  and  filled  with  very  rich  cus- 
tard ;  much  the  same  as  maids  of  honor.  MIRLITONS 
AUX  FLEURS  D'ORAXGER  —  Little  patties  of  puff 
paste  filled  with  a  mixture  of  butter,  sugar  and  eggs 
worked  up  together,  powdered  macaroons  added  to 
make  a  paste  of  it,  candid  orange  flowers  for  flavor. 
MIRLITOXS  DE  ROUEN — Little  puff  paste  patties 
filled  with  egg,  thick  cream  and  sugar  in  equal 
parts,  beaten  and  flavored,  sugar  sifted  plentifully 
on  top  as  they  are  put  in  the  oven. 

MIROTON  (Fr.)— Dish  of  sliced  fish,  meat  or 
fruit.  MIROTON  DE  HOMARD  —  Slices  of  lobster 
meat  dipped  in  salad  sauce  and  served  on  salad. 
MIROTOX  DE  BCEUF— Slices  of  cooked  beef  in  a  dish 
with  savory  sauce,  covered  with  bread  crumbs  and 
baked.  MIROTON  DE  POMMES — Apples  cut  in  ring 
slices  built  up  in  dome  form  in  a  baking  dish,  inside 
filled  with  apple  and  peach  marmalade,  baked  till 
done,  sugar  sifted  over,  served  in  the  same  dish  with 
folded  napkin  around  it  or  paper  frill. 

MOCK  CRAB— Cheese,  bread  crumbs,  butter, 
vinegar,  cayenne  and  salt,  with  an  egg,  made  up  to 
resemble  devilled  crabs,  baked  in  shells. 

MOCK  DUCK— Thin  beef  steak  covered  with 
duck  stuffing,  rolled  up,  tied,  cooked  tender  in  gravy 
in  the  oven. 

MOCK  TURTLE  SOUP  —  Made  of  beef  stock 
with  calf's  head  boiled  in  it.  The  head  boned  and 
pressed,  cut  in  dice  when  cold  and  put  in  the  soup  to 
substitute  turtle.  (See  Soups.') 

MCELLE  (Fr.)— Marrow.  SAUCE  MCELLE— Mar- 
row sauce. 

MONSELET,  CHARLES— "The  Prince  of  Pa- 
risian gourmets,  and  one  of  the  few  men  on  whom 
the  mantle  of  Brillat-Savarin  decended,  has  recent- 
ly died.  Charles  Monselet  was  born  at  Nantes,  and 
spent  his  early  years  in  the  shop  of  his  father,  who 
was  a  bookseller.  After  many  struggles  he  worked 
his  way  up  to  the  foremost  rank  of  journalism,  and 
was  one  of  the  livelist  chroniquerus  on  art,  .letters, 
and  good  living  in  Paris.  His  articles  were  full  of 
wit,  point,  and  piquancy.  Saint- Beuve  used  to  say 


MON 

to  him,  'Resumez  vous,  Monselet,  and  write  a  book.' 
'There  are  so  many  books,"  was  the  answer,  '  that  I 
abhor  to  add  to  thtir  number.'  Nevertheless  the 
lively  chronicler  became  a  voluminous  contributor 
to  book  literature,  w  ithout  adding  in  any  degree  to 
his  reputation  as  a  writer.  In  order  to  revive  the 
traditions  of  Brillat-Savarin  and  Grimod  de  leRey- 
niere,  he  wrote  the  'Almanach  des  Gourmands,' 
and  the  'Cuisine  Poetique.'  He  also  founded  a  mag- 
azine, Le  Gourmet,  which  did  not  live;  but  Monse- 
let as  has  been  well  said,  never  invented  a  new  dish 
nor  wrote  a  solid  book." 

MOXTE  SAXO  CAKE  — Variation  of  angel 
cake.  Has  butter  in  it.  Equally  as  white  but  not 
quite  so  woolly.  Is  shorter  eating,  better  to  roll 
up  for  white  jelly  roll.  Choice  cake  in  any  shape. 
Made  of  42  whites,  2^  Ibs.  sugar,  ij^  Ibs.  flour,  }£ 
Ib.  butter,  4  teaspoons  cream  tarter;  flavoring. 
Make  up  like  angel  cake,  have  the  butter  melted, 
not  hot,  and  beat  it  in  after  the  flour. 

MOXTPELLIER  BUTTER  — Green  butter, 
served  cold  as  sauce  for  fish,  lobster,  etc.  Made  of 
green  herbs — tarragon,  chervil,  pimpernel,  chives — 
scalded,  drained  and  pounded;  garlic,  capers,  hard 
yolks,  anchovies,  gherkins,  butter,  salt,  pepper, 
nutmeg  and  tarragon  vinegar  worked  into  the  paste 
at  last. 

MOXKEY — "  In  Spanish  Honduras  the  dish  of 
honor  is  baked  monkey,  and  sweeter  meat  you  could 
not  imagine.  These  monkeys  live  up  in  the  branches 
of  trees  and  on  the  vines;  their  feet  never  touch  the 
earth  beneath  them,  and  they  live  on  the  choicest 
nuts  and  fruit.  No  chicken  was  ever  so  sweet  and 
tender  as  baked  monkey."  "The  Anamite  Tuduc, 
just  deceased,  was  a  curiosity  among  Emperors. 
The  two  chief  institutions  of  his  palace  were  his 
harem  and  his  kitchen.  He  was  an  old  man,  and 
only  allowed  his  sacred  face  to  be  seen  by  manda- 
rins of  high  rank.  His  principal  meal  consisted  of 
never  fewer  than  twenty  courses,  among  which  was 
his  favorite  delicacy  of  roast  monkey.  He  fre- 
quentlv  received  a  fatted  ape  from  his  subjects  as  a 
present,  and  nothing  was  more  acceptable.  His 
manner  of  daily  life  was  said  to  be  morel  uxurious 
than  that  of  his  over  lord,  the  Emperor  of  China." 
"  Here  is  a  Mandingo  (African)  bill  of  fare  which 
Reade,  the  explorer,  leaves  on  record  for  the  amuse- 
ment of  the  curious.  '  Then  followed,'  he  says, 
'gaAlle  cutlets  a  la  papillots;  two  small  monkeys, 
served  cross-legged  and  with  liver  sauce  on  toast; 
stewed  iguana,  which  was  much  admired ;  a  dish  of 
roasted  crocodile's  eggs;  some  slices  of  smoked  ele- 
phant (from  the  interior);  a  few  agreeable  plates  of 
fried  locusts,  land  crabs  and  other  crustacae;  the 
breasts  of  mermaid,  or  manatee,  the  grand  bonne- 
bouche  of  tne  repast;  some  boiled  alligator  and 
some  hippopotamus  steaks.'  While  this  dinner  does 
not  equal  in  courses  some  of  the  elaborate  feasts  of 
civilized  lands,  certainly  no  one  will  say  that  it 
lacked  variety." 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


375 


MON 

MONTE  SANO  PUDDING -Excellent  example 
of  a  souffle,  and  one  of  the  best  puddings  ever  made; 
composed  of  3  oz.  flour,  3  oz.  sugar,  3  oz.  butter,  3 
eggs,  i  pt.  boiling  milk.  The  eggs  separated;  the 
yolks,  sugar,  butter  and  flour  stirred  together  like 

cake,  boilineT  milk  poured  into  the  mixture.     When  I 

fa  r 

cool,  the  whites  whipped  stiff  and  mixed  in;  baked  in  j 
a  pudding  dish;  wine  sauce.  It  may  perhaps  require  ] 
a  little  more  milk  if  too  stiff  to  take  in  the  whites,  j 
Is  like  yellow  sponge  cake,  but  soft. 

MONTREAL  PUDDING— Steamed  raisin  pud-  | 
ding,  made  of  i  Ib.  bread-crumbs,  3  oz.  sugar,  6  eggs,  j 
i  pt.  milk,  i  Ib.  raisins,  %  Ib.  flour;  steamed  3  hours. 

MOREL — A  kind  of  mushroom  with  a  netted 
surface,  something  like  a  piece  of  sponge  on  astern. 
They  are  stewed,  fried,  added  to  sauces.  MORILLES 
AUX  CROUTONS — Morels  stewed,  and  served  with 
the  sauce  on  buttered  toast.  MORILLES  A  L'ANDA  - 
LOUSE — Morels  cooked  with  oil,  wine,  ham,  and 
served  in  the  sauce.  MORILLES  A  L'ITALIENNE — 
Served  with  Italian  sauce. 

MORUE  (Fr.)— Salt  cod. 

MOTSA  BREAD— See  Jewish  Cookery. 

MOULE  (Fr.)— Mould.  MOULE  D' ASPIC  A  LA 
ROYALE  —  A  mould  of  round  slices  of  chicken, 
truffles,  mushrooms,  cock's-combs,  white  of  egg  in 
shapes,  cream  sauce  and  aspic  jelly  to  fill  up  and 
set  it. 

MOULES  (Fr.)— Mussels.  SAUCE  MOULES— 
Mussel  sauce. 

MOUSSE  (Fr.)— Moss;  froth;  something  very 
light  and  spongy.  The  term  is  both  to  meat  prepai  - 
ations  and  to  ice  creams;  there  are  mousses  of  foie 
gras,  the  softened  paste  having  whipped  cream 
mixed  in  it  and  then  made  cold,  as  well  as  biscuits 
glaces  and  mousses  glaces.  (See  Ices. .)  MOUSSE  ICE- 


INDIVIDUAL   MOULD. 

For  mousses,  muscovites,  jellies,  etc. 

CREAM— Made  by  putting  8  yolks  in  a  pint  of  strong 
sugar  syrup  (34  degrees)  and  whipping  them  over 
the  fire  until  nearly  boiling,  but  must  not  quite  boil; 
then  set  the  kettle  in  ice  and  salt,  and  continue  whip- 
ping until  nearly  frozen;  then  a  pint  of  thick  cream 
is  whipped  and  mixed  into  the  other,  along  with 
whatever  flavoring  is  wanted.  It  is  not  frozen  in  a 
freezer,  nor  worked  any  more,  but  put  in  a  mould 
and  buried  in  freezing  mixture  till  wanted.  The 
mould  to  be  lined  with  thin  white  paper.  MOUSSE 


MUL 

DE  HoMARD-Lobster  meat  with  seasonings  of  lemon 
juice,  etc.,  pounded  through  a  seive,  stirred  up  with 
a  little  butter;  when  nearly  cold,  some  whipped 
cream  incorporated  with  the  puree,  filled  into  small 
moulds;  served  cold.  MOUSSE  DE  CREVETTES  — 
Shrimps  same  way  as  lobster.  (See  Sotiffles,  Pains.) 
GELEE  MOUSSEUSE  A  L'EAU  DE  VIE — Brandy  jelly, 
whipped  to  froth.  MOUSSE  AUX  FRAlSES-Whipped 
cream  with  strawberries,  not  frozen. 

MOUSSERONS  (Fr.)— Mushrooms;  the  large  or 
full-grown  open  ones.  Champignons  are  small  or 
button  mushrooms. 

MOUSQUETAIRE  SAUCE-  Cold  or  salad  sauce 
of  oil,  tarragon  vinegar,  mustard,  shallot,  salt,  and 
pepper. 

MOUTARDE  (Fr.)— Mustard. 

MUD-PUPPY— "Another  delicacy  is  the  mud-- 
puppy, which  comes  from  Ohio.  It  is  a  lower  form 
of  lizard  than  the  hell-bender.  It  is  a  foot  long, 
with  a  lizard-like  body,  and  a  long,  exceedingly 
slabsided  thin  tail,  with  which  it  propels  itself  in 
the  water  with  great  rapidity.  On  the  back  of  its 
head  are  gill  tufts.  When  the  mud -pappy  is  too 
long  out  of  water,  the  tufts  dry,  and  it  dies  from 
want  of  breath.  Its  feet  are  funny  little  things  that 
straddle  and  sprawl  around  like  a  puppy's.  But  the 
reason  why  it  is  called  a  mud-puppy  is  that,  when  . 
fishermen  wandering  with  fish-spears  along  the  bor- 
ders of  Western  lakes  and  streams  happen  to  bring 
up  a  mud-puppy,  it  utters  short,  sharp  barks." 

MUFFIN — The  original  English  muffins  are  a 
flour  batter-cake  mixture,  without  eggs,  raised  with 
yeast  and  very  light  baked  by  pouring  into  tin  rings 
set  upon  a  hot  griddle,  or  baking  plate,  and  turned 
over  when  one  side  is  done.  \Vhen  to  be  eaten,  they 
are  pulled  open,  and  the  two  halves  toasted  and 
served  hot.  American  muffins  are  the  same  batter- 
cake  mixture  made  richer,  baked  in  gem-pans  or 
small  muffin-rings,  or  are  made  of  a  piece  of  light 
bread  dough  reduced  to  thinness  with  warm  milk, 
and  enriched  with  sugar,  butter  and  eggs,  and  baked 
as  before.  There  are  all  sorts,  as  corn,  wheat,  gra- 
ham, rice  and  rye  muffins.  MINUTE  MUFFINS — One 
pint  milk,  2  beaten  eggs,  2  tablespoons  melted  but- 
ter, i  tablespoon  sugar,  2  large  teaspoons  baking- 
powder,  flour  to  make  a  batter  that  will  just  drop 
from  the  spoon. 

MULBERRY— "According  to  the  doctors,  the 
best  fruit  to  eat  at  breakfast  is  a  plate  of  mulberries. 
They  contain  more  acid  than  most  fruits,  and  yet  are 
sweet  and  easily  digestible."  In  the  United  States 
the  mulberry  is  held  of  little  value;  it  is  not  often 
served  as  dessert,  and  a  mulberry  pie  would  be  ac- 
counted one  of  the  poorest.  This  is  probably  owing 
to  the  abundance  of  better  fruit  at  the  same  season, 
and  not  that  the  mulberry  is  the  worse  here  than  in 
Europe  where  it  is  used  in  various  ways.  The  best 
use  to  be  made  of  it  in  cooking  is  to  mix  it  with  some 
sour  fruit,  apples  or  rhubarb,  when  it  makes  excel- 
lent pies  and  roly-polys. 


376 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


MUL 

MULET  (Fr.)— Gray  mullet. 

MULLET—  There  are  two  fishes  of  the  name,  the 
red  anil  gray  mullet.  The  latter  is  one  of  the  most 
abundant  sea-fish  of  the  southern  coasts,  and  is 
cheap  and  but  little  esteemed  accordingly.  It  is  of 
good  flavor,  especially  in  the  winter  season;  its  flesh 
is  Hither  dark  and  does  not  color  as  handsomely  in 
the  processes  of  cooking  as  most  other  fish.  The  red 
mullet  is  found  in  the  same  localities,  hut  in  very 
limited  quantities,  and  is  seldom  seen  in  the 
markets.  RED  MULLET — "Most  cooks  make  no  dis- 
tinction in  dressing  the  red  and  gray  mullet;  though 
the  former  is  cooked  woodcock  fashion,  without 
drawing,  so  delicate  is  the  fish."  "If  you  get  red 
mullet  fresh  from  the  sea,  dress  them  as  is  done  with 
woodcock,  retaining  the  trail;  but  inland  this  is  not 
a  safe  proceeding."  "A  lover  of  mullet,  the  late 
f)uke  of  Portland,  was  in  the  habit  of  going  to 
Weymouth  during  the  summer  months  for  the  sake 
of  the  red  mullet  which  formerly  abounded  there. 
The  largest  used  to  be  had  for  threepence  or  four- 
pence  apiece;  but  he  has  been  known  to  give  two 
guineas  for  one  weighing  a  pound  and  a  half.  His 
Grace's  custom  was  to  put  all  the  livers  together 
into  a  butter-boat,  to  avoid  the  chances  of  inequal- 
ity; very  properly  considering  that,  to  be  helped  toa 
mullet  in  the  condition  of  an  East  Indian  nabob, 
•  would  be  too  severe  a  shock  for  the  nerves  or  spirits 
of  any  man."  MULLET  LIVER— "Quinn  the  actor 
used  to  declare  that  the  mullet  was  only  created  for 
its  liver  to  serve  as  sauce  to  the  John  dory."  "A 
large  mullet  may  be  cut  into  fillets  and  fried,  and 
served  with  sliced  cucumber.  The  livers  are  the  only 
sauce  to  be  eaten  with  mullet,"  MARCUS  APICIUS 
ox  MULLET — "The  Romans  served  the  mullet  with 
a  seasoning  of  pepper,  rue,  onions,  dates,  and  mus- 
tard, to  which  they  added  the  flesh  of  the  sea-hedge- 
hog reduced  toa  pulp,  and  oil."  "Red  mullets  are 
the  favorite  fish  in  Greece.  They  are  cooked  in  ail, 
with  garlic,  parsley  and  cayenne  pepper;  you  then 
strain  tomatoes  and  make  a  good  sauce,  and  let  the 
fish  cook  in  it  very  slowly,  adding  lemon  juice." — 
ROUGETS  EN  CAISSE — Red  mullets  sprinkled  with 
oil  and  parsley,  broiled  in  papers.  ROUGETS  EN 
PAPILOTTES — Red  mullets  baked  in  papers,  served 
with  Italian  sauce.  ROUGETS  AUX  FINES  HERBES — 
Red  mullets  cooked  with  bntter,  wine,  mushroom- 
catsup  and  anchovy;  served  in  the  sauce  with 
chopped  mushrooms,  parsley,  shallot,  and  lemon 
juice.  FILLETS  DE  ROUGETS  A  LA  MONTESQUIEU — 
Red  mullet  fillets  saute  in  butter  with  wine  and 
lemon  juice;  served  with  cream  sauce.  MULETS 
GRILLES  A  LA  RAVIGOTE  Gray  mullet  broiled,  and 
served  with  ravigote  sauce.  MULETS  AU  BEUKKE 
FONDU — Gray  mullet  broiled,  served  with  butter 
sauce.  They  are  also  cut  in  pieces,  rolled  in  flour 
and  fried,  and  split  open,  broiled,  and  served  with 
maitre  ei'liotcl  butter.  UDE  AND  His  MULLET 
SAUCE — Ude  considered  it  a  great  insult  when  in 
England  a  customer  at  the  club  refused  to  pay  six- 
pence for  a  sauce.  "Wouldn't  pay  for  my  mullet 


MUS 

sauce!"  he  exclaimed,  "what,  does  he  think  mullets 
come  out  of  the  sea  \vith  my  sauce  in  their  pockets?" 
MULLIGATAWNY— Curry  soup.  Also  spelled 
mullagatawne.  It  derives  its  name  from  two  Tamil 
words:  inolegoo,  pepper,  and  timnee,  water.  "Mul- 
ligatunny"  would  therefore  appear  to  be  the  proper 
spelling.  WRITTEN  IN  1827 — "Mullaga-tawny  sig- 
nifies pepper- water.  The  progress  of  inexperienced 
peripatetic  diners-out  has  lately  been  arrested  by  this 
outlandish  word  being  pasted  on  the  windows  of  our 
coffee-houses.  It  has,  we  believe,  answered  the  res- 
taurateurs' purpose,  and  often  excited  John  Bull  to 
walk  in  and  taste — the  more  familiar  name  of  'curry 
soup'  would,  perhaps,  not  have  had  sufficient  of  the 
charms  of  novelty  to  seduce  him  from  his  much- 
loved  mock-turtle."  The  American  way  is  to  begin 
as  for  gumbo  by  frying  the  pieces  of  chicken  and 
onion  and  curry-powder  together;  another  method 
boils  the  chicken  and  other  meat,  such  as  a  calf's 
head,  first,  then  cuts  it  up  and  fries  it  with  onions 
and  curry,  straining  the  broth  the  meat  was  boiled  in 
to  it.  "The  annexed  recipe  emanates  from  an  Indian 
cook:  Make  2  large  cupfuls  of  mutton  broth;  cut  up 
a  chicken,  and  boil  it  in  the  broth  for  a  good  half- 
hour  or  more,  first  mixing  in  a  tablespoonful  of 
curry-powder  or  paste;  slice  2  onions,  fry  brown  in 
i  oz.  of  butter,  add  them  to  the  chicken  and  broth, 
and  place  them  for  some  minutes  over  a  slow  fire, 
and,  just  before  serving,  add  y2  cup  of  cocoanut  milk 
and  some  lemon  juice.  The  cocoanut  milk  should  be 
made  by  scraping  the  cocoanut  very  fine,  pouring 
boiling  water  upon  it,  and,  after  it  has  stood  for  some 
time,  squeezing  it  through  muslin.  If  you  cannot 
get  a  cocoanut,  use  cream." 

MUSCOVITES— Whipped  jellies;  Moscow  jel- 
lies, from  whipped  jelly  having  at  first  been  called 
Russian  jelly.  These  are  combinations  of  jelly  and 
ice  cream  made  by  adding  gelatine  to  fruit  juice  or 
pulp  and  beating  on  ice  till  nearly  set  Jien  mixing 
in  whipped  cream,  putting  it  in  a  mould  and  burying 
in  freezing  mixture  for  2  or  3  hours.  (See  Ices.) 

MUSHROOM — "I  am  a  mushroom  enthusiast. 
Danger  of  poison  ?  Not  a  bit  of  it.  With  the  exer- 
cise of  a  little  common  sense  there  is  no  danger  of 
mistaking  the  edible  variety  for  those  that  arc  poi- 
sonous. All  toadstools,  technically  speaking,  are 
mushrooms,  but  all  mushrooms  are  not  toadstools. 
Popular  custom  has  given  the  name  of  mushroom 
only  to  the  variety  used  in  the  kitchen.  I  have  seen 
both  sorts  growing  side  by  side,  and  exactly  similar 
in  appearance,  but  the  difference  is  soon  apparent 
when  vou  attempt  to  remove  the  skin.  You  can't 
skin  a  toadstool;  it  will  break  off  in  small  fragments. 
The  covering  of  the  non- poisonous,  on  the  contrary, 
can  be  removed  without  the  slightest  difficulty. 
Mushrooms  are  extensively  cultivated  in  France, 
but  I  did  not  know  until  recently  that  a  similar  in- 
dustry was  practised  in  this  city  (Philadelphia).  I 
had  frequently  noticed  on  Boldt's  bill  of  fare,  even 
in  the  depth  of  winter,  '  fresh  mushrooms,"  and 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


377 


MUS 

this  naturally  led  to  inquiry.  I  found  that  there  are  | 
four  or  five  persons  in  Philadelphia  who  make  a 
business  of  cultivating  the  delicious  fungi,  and  that  • 
in  addition  quite  a  large  number  of  private  house  ; 
holders  grow  them  in  their  cellars.  One  gardener  ' 
utilizes  a  large  Dock  Street  cellar  for  the  purpose. 
A  down-town  truckman  forces  them  to  grow  under  i 
the  glass  of  a  hot-house.  An  old  Frenchwoman 
and  her  daughter  down  in  'The  Neck'  are  more  suc- 
cessful than  all  others,  they  having  a  bed  made  in 
an  enclosed  cow- shed.  The  largest  grower  is  J.  E. 
Kingsley,  of  the  Continental  Hotel,  who  has  a  large 
farm  in  addition  to  the  biggest  hotel  in  town. 
Those  who  grow  them  here  receive  from  $1.00  to 
$1.50  per  quart  for  them,  and  on  some  occasions 
even  higher  figures  are  obtained.  When  you  come 
to  eat  them  in  the  cafe  a  one-dollar  note  buys* you 
about  two  mushrooms,  and  yet  at  that  figure  they 
do  not  even  approach  the  delicacy  of  flavor  and  deli- 
ciousness  of  taste  of  the  same  growth  when  pur- 
chased in  the  open  market  house  for  from  10  to  25 
cents  a  quart.  I  tell  you  it  is  almost  impossible  to 
counterfeit  nature.  For  instance,  what  a  mockery 
are  the  canned  mushrooms  that  so  many  people  eat 
under  a  wild  idea  that  they  are  enjo3'ing  a  luxury! 
They  are  of  a  different  species  from  our  wild  mush- 
rooms, and  are  cultivated  in  immense  caves  near 
Paris.  When  in  their  early  or  button  growth  they 
are  canned  and  sent  to  this  country,  where  they  are 
served  in  sauces.  But  what  a  delusion!  To  one 
whose  palate  can  quickly  appreciate  the  delicacy  of 
the  true  article  they  taste  as  though  one  were  chew- 
ing on  preserved  shavings.  On  a  vacant  plot  of 
building  land  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the 
Harrow  road  and  within  four  miles  of  Charing 
Cross  is  produced  annually  what  is  probably  the 
most  valuable  crop  grown  in  the  open  air  and  with- 
out the  aid  of  glass  on  any  acre  of  Hnglish  soil. 
The  space  occupied  is,  indeed,  rather  more  than  an 
acre,  the  rent  being  just  £12  a  year,  but  the  space 
devoted  to  mushrooms  and  manure  is  under  an  acre, 
and  the  uninitiated  will  be  astonished  to  learn  that 
from  this  small  plot  has  been  gathered  in  the  last 
twelve  months  about  twelve  thousand  pounds 
weight  of  mushrooms,  all  of  which  have  been  sold 
at  Covent  Garden  at  a  price  varying  according  to 
the  season,  but  averaging  ten-pence  a  pound  for  the 
whole  year.  Now,  the  value  of  twelve  thousand 
pounds  at  ten-pence  per  pound  is  just  five  hundred 
pounds  sterling.  We  have  therefore  the  amazing 
circumstance  that  an  acre  of  our  metropolitan  area 
has  produced  a  richer  garden  crop  than  the  cosiest 
corner  of  Kent  or  the  most  favored  nook  on  Lord 
Sudelev's  jam  farm  in  Gloucestershire."  A  SIMPLE 
RULE — "Make  it  a  rule  not  to  touch  a  mushroom 
whose  lower  gills  are-  white."  MUSHROOMS  ox 
THE  GRILL — The  smallest  buttons  of  the  real  mush- 
room (cigaricus  campestris)  are,  as  everybody  knows, 
delicious  if  nicely  broiled,  but  for  a  prime  dish  of 
mushrooms  from  the  grill,  whether  to  eat  alone  or 
with  a  kidney,  or  steak,  or  cutlet,  we  prefer  them 


MUS 

fully  grown,  so  that  the  brown  gills  are  quite  ex- 
posed; for  in  the  buttons  the  gills  are  hidden  by  a 
membrane,  which  disappears  as  the  head  expands 
and  rends  it  asunder.  MUSHROOMS  ON  TOAST — 
Slices  of  buttered  toast  covered  with  fresh  mush- 
rooms, which  have  been  dipped  in  butter  and  sea- 
soned, set  in  the  top  part  of  a  hot  oven  till  cooked. 
STUFFED  MUSHROOMS  —  Open,  cup-shaped  fresh 
mushrooms  peeled  on  the  upper  side,  washed,  the 
stalks  chopped  with  parsley  and  shallots,  stirred 
over  fire  with  butter  and  thickening,  the  mushrooms 
filled  with  this  stuffing  and  baked  about  10  minutes. 
CROUSTADES  OF  MUSHROOMS— Cup-shapes  of  fried 
bread  or  rolls  filled  with  mushrooms  in  sauce;  the 
mushrooms  cooked  with  butter,  parsley,  chives,  salt, 
pepper,  stock,  and  thickened  with  yolk  of  egg;  little 
lemon  juice.  BROILED  MUSHROOMS — Large  open 
mushrooms  steeped  in  oil  for  an  hour,  broiled  on 
wire  broiler,  seasoned;  served  on  toast.  VEGE- 
TARIAN MUSHROOM  PIE — Equal  quantities  of  fresh 
mushrooms  and  sliced  raw  potatoes  in  a  buttered 


pie  dish  with  seasonings,  little  water,  covered  with 
paste,  baked.  Stalks  of  mushrooms  stewed  to  make 
gravy  to  pour  in  the  pie.  WHERE  MUSHROOMS 
ARE  UNDERSTOOD — "A  strange  variety  of  taste  has 
prevailed  in  various  countries  in  regard  to  mush- 
rooms. In  Russia  the  peasants  are  never  without 
them.  They  are  hung  up  to  dry  in  the  roofs  of  the 
cottages  like  oat-cake  in  Lancashire,  and  form  a 
greatly  esteemed  relish  to  all  sorts  of  dishes.  In 
some  parts  of  Germany,  also,  they  are  largely  pre- 
served in  brine  for  cooking  purposes.  In  England, 
however,  it  is  only  lately  that  they  have  come  at  all 
into  general  use."  THE  BEEFSTEAK  MUSHROOM — 
"Amongst  edible  members  of  the  mushroom  tribe, 
a  much  esteemed  article  of  diet,  is  the  beefsteak 
fungus  (fistulina  hepatica).  It  grows  on  trees, 
usually  oak,  is  firm  and  juicy,  and,  as  its  popular 
name  indicates,  bear  a  great  resemblance  to  a  piece 
of  beefsteak.  Its  weight  may  exceed  20  Ibs.  It  is 
used  sliced  and  eaten  with  salad,  or  grilled  like  true 
mushrooms."  THE  ONION  TEST — There  are  many 
varieties  of  the  true  mushroom  and  of  the  horse - 
mushroom,  but  all  are  equally  good  for  table.  To 
distinguish  between  these  and  noxious  fungi,  the 


378 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


MUS 

following  test  is  recommended:  Take  half  an  on- 
ion, stripped  of  its  external  skin,  and  boil  it  with 
the  mushrooms;  if  the  color  of  the  onion  is  changed 
and  it  becomes  bluish,  or  tinged  with  black,  it  is  an 
evident  sign  that  poisonous  fungi  are  present.  If 
the  onion  preserves  its  color  there  is  no  danger. 
MUSHROOM  KETCHUP  OR  CATSUP  —  Large  field 
mushrooms  peeled,  crushed  to  a  pulp,  i  tablespoon 
salt  to  every  quart;  let  stand  24  hours,  the  liquor 
drained  off  and  co  every  quart  of  it  20  cloves,  30  each 
pepper  corns  and  allspice;  boiled  gently  %  hour, 
bottled,  corked  when  cold.  Will  keep  a  long  time. 
DRIED  MUSHROOMS — These  can  be  bought  at  Italian 
warehouses  and  fruit  stores,  and  give  more  true 
mushroom  flavor  for  sauces  and  garnishes  than  the 
canned  champignons.  Mushrooms  can  be  dried, 
after  peeling  and  trimming,  on  pans  in  a  nearly  cold 
baker's  oven,  and  kept  in  paper  bags.  MUSHROOM 
PATTIES — Puff-paste  shells  filled  with  cut-up  mush- 
rooms in  gravy.  BAKED  MUSHROOMS — Peeled,  cup- 
shaped  mushrooms  hollow  side  upwards  in  a  pan 
with  butter  in  each  one,  salt  and  pepper,  parsley  and 
lemon  juice.  "  Two  mushrooms,  each  measuring 
27^  inches  in  circumference  and  q  inches  in  diam- 
eter, and  weighing  fully  13  ounces,  have  been 
gathered  fr6m  the  farm  of  James  Bower,  at  Haps- 
ford,  Cheshire.  These  are  believed  to  be  the  largest 
mushrooms  ever  known  to  have  been  seen  in  En- 
gland." 

MUSK  ESSENCE— Used  in  flavoring  drinks  in 
some  places,  also  jellies  and  creams;  it  has  been 
temporarily  the  fashion. 

MUSKRAT— An  old  Maryland  gentleman,  who 
is  somewhat  of  an  epicure,  says  that  between  turkey 
and  muskrat  he  will  take  muskrat  all  the  time  The 
way  the  Indians  cooked  this  animal  was  either  to 
roast  it  on  coals  or  boil  it  with  corn.  The  average 
man  will  say  that  he  would  not  eat  a  muskrat  for 
$10,  but  the  average  man  does  not  know  what  he  is 
talking  about.  An  ordinary  cook,  however,  will 
get  nothing  from  the  rodent  except  a  failure  and  a 
bad  odor.  If  the  musk  bag  is  cut  and  the  scent  is 
imparted  to  the  meat  it  becomes  worthless. 

MUSSEL -Bivalve  shell -fish,  shell  about  the 
length  of  a  finger;  nearly  black,  clings  in  clusters  to 
rocks  and  wooden  piles  of  wharves.  TRADE  IN 
MUSSELS — "All  along  the  Norman  coast  mussel- 
fishing  is  greatly  carried  on,  these  shell-fish  being 
sent  from  here  to  all  parts  of  the  country.  They 
are  at  their  best  injuly.  The  usual  way  of  eating 
them  is  boiled,  with  a  sauce  of  cream  and  vinegar." 
MUSSELS  AU  GRATIN — A  great  deal  has  been  recent- 
ly said  about  mussels  and  the  various  ways  of  cook- 
ing these  fish,  whose  cheapness  and  abundance  put 
them  within  the  reach  of  all.  One  of  the  tastiest 
•ways  of  preparing  mussels  is  an  ffratin,  for  which 
the  following  is  the  recipe:  Choose  some  fine  mus- 
sels; season  with  thyme,  laural-leaf,  and  parsley; 
cook.  Select  fattest,  and  treat  these  only.  Shell, 
and  cover  with  a  bechamel  sauce  much  reduced, 


MUS 

with  yolks  and  cheese  grated  over.  Glaze  in  a  hot 
oven  and  serve  immediately.  MUSSELS  A  LA  MARI- 
NIERE— After  a  few  minutes  steaming  or  broiling, 
take  the  mussels  out  of  their  shells,  and  toss  them 
in  a  saucepan  with  a  large  lump  of  butter  and  finely 
chopped  parsley,  chives,  and  garlic;  stir  in  a  little 
black  pepper  and  bread  crumbs.  Serve  very  hot. 
MOULES  A  LA  POULETTE — Mussels  in  yellow  sauce. 
MOULES  A  LA  VILLEROI — Fried  mussels,  dipped  be- 
fore frying  in  Villeroi  sauce;  then  breaded,  egged, 
and  breaded.  MOULES  DE  GRAS— Mussels  stewed 
with  bacon  and  mushrooms,  in  thickened  sauce. 
COQUILLES  DE  MOULES — Scalloped  mussels  same 
as  oysters.  MUSSELS  WITH  TOMATOES— Mussels 
and  their  liquor,  tomatoes,  onion,  half-fried  in  but- 
ter, white  sauce,  red  and  white  pepper,  salt,  butter, 
little 'vinegar,  parsley;  served  in  deep  dish  with  cru- 
tons.  MUSSEL  SOUPS — Same  as  oyster  soups,  with 
or  without  milk.  MUSSEL  SAUCE— For  fish;  like 
ovster  sauce;  mussels  in  vellow  sauce  with  lemon 
juice. 

MUSTARD— Flour  made  of  the  mixed  seed  of 
black  and  white  mustard,  deprived  of  its  mustard 
oil  and  toned  down  with  more  or  less  meal  or  farina. 
To  Mix  MUSTARD — Merely  wet  it  with  cold  water. 
Epicures  sometimes  mix  mustard  with  sherrv  or 
raisin  wine.  The  French  mix  it  with  tarragon, 
shallot  and  other  flavoring  vinegars,  and  pepper. 
SHAKSPEAREAN  QUOTATION — In  Shakspeare's  time 
\\mgourmets  of  the  period  ate  mustard  with  pan- 
cakes. Touchstone  puts  the  case  "of  a  certain 
knight  that  swore  by  his  honor  they  were  good  pan- 
cakes, and  swore  by  his  honor  the  mustard  was 
naught.  Now,  I'll  stand  to  it,  the  pancakes  were 
naught  and  the  mustard  was  good,  yet  was  not 
the  knight  forsworn."  MUSTARD  FOR  BALDNESS — 
Gerard  wrote  about  the  same  period:  "  The  seed  of 
mustard  pound  with  vinegar  is  an  excellent  sauce, 
good  to  be  eaten  with  any  gross  meats,  either  fish  or 
fleshe,  because  it  doth  help  the  digestion,  warmeth 
stomache,  and  provoketh  appetite.  It  also  appeaseth 
the  toothache  being  chewed  in  the  mouth.  It  helpeth 
those  that  have  their  hair  pulled  off;  it  taketh.  away 
the  blue  and  black  marks  that  come  of  bruisings." 
MUSTARD  OIL  LINIMENTS — The  bulk  of  the  mus- 
tard oil  is  used  for  lubricating  purposes,  though  a 
large  proportion,  differently  treated  and  put  up  as  a 
patent  medicine,  is  used  medicinally  for  rheumatics 
and  other  ailments  of  the  joints  and  limbs.  .MUS- 
TARD PLASTER — Mix  the  mustard  with  the  white  of 
an  egg,  and  all  painful  irritation  will  be  done  away 
with  and^the  full  benefit  secured.  MUSTARD  EMETIC 
— Mustard  in  warm  water  is  often  an  efficient  and 
readv  antidote  in  the  case  of  poison.  WHY  IT  is 
DURHAM  MUSTARD — Prior  to  the  date  of  about  1720 
the  seed  was  coarsely  pounded  in  a  mortar,  as 
coarsely  separated  from  the  integument,  and  in  that 
rough  state  prepared  for  use.  In  the  year  mentioned, 
it  occurred  to  an  old  woman  of  the  name  of  Clements, 
residing  in  Durham,  to  grind  the  seed  in  a  mill,  and 
pass  it  through  the  several  processes  which  are  re- 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


379 


MUT 

sorted  to  in  making-  flour  from  wheat.  George  I. 
stamped  it  with  fashion  by  his  approval.  From  this 
old  lady  residing  in  Durham  it  acquired  the  name  of 
"  Durham  Mustard."  MUSTARD  IN  SAUCES — When 
it  is  desirable  to  put  mustard  in  a  sauce,  as  in  Robert 
sauce  for  instance,  mustard  flour,  that  is,  unmade 
mustard,  must  always  be  used.  Put  a  little  of  the 
sauce  or  stock,  in  a  cup,  stir  in  the  mustard  flour, 
and  then  work  in  with  the  rest  of  the  sauce.  MUS- 
TARD SAUCE — For  fish.  (/)-Raw  mustard  mixed 
with  milk  and  little  salt,  more  milk  added  and  then 
vinegar.  In  short  time  the  milk  becomes  thick  by 
curdling,  and  is  ready  for  use;  i  teaspoon  flour  mus- 
tard to  y2  pt.  milk.  (i)-i  teaspoon  mustard  flour  and 
2  of  baked  flour  with  3  oz.  butter,  i  gill  boiling  water 
added,  boiled;  i  teaspoon  vinegar  to  finish.  Doug- 
las Jerrold  once  went  to  a  party  given  by  a  Mr.  Pep- 
per, and  said  to  his  hoast,  on  entering  the  room, 
"  My  dear  Pepper,  how  glad  you  must  be  to  see  all 
your  friends  mustered." 

MUTTOX — "Listen  was  asked  by  a  gentleman 
carving  a  loin  of  mutton :  'Shall  I  cut  it  saddlewise  ?' 
'You  had  better  cut  it  bridlewise,'  replied  the  fam- 
ous actor,  'then  we  shall  all  stand  a  better  chance  of 
getting  a  bit  in  our  mouths.'  "  A  WELSHMAN'S 
HEAVEN  —  "  'Heaven,'  said  a  Welsh  preacher, 
searching1  hard  for  a  comparison,  'Heaven  is  like — 
is  like — is  like — heaven  is  like— boiled  mutton  and 
turnips!'  But  the  Cambrian  heaven  is  still  incom- 
plete if  caper  sauce  be  lacking  to  it."  HARICOT  DE 
MOUTON — Same  as  Navarin.  Specialty.  "The  res- 
taurant department  of  the  Cafe  Helder  is  good,  be- 
ing especially  famed  for  its  ragout  of  mutton,  hari- 
cot de  motiton,  or  nai'aria,  as  it  is  here  called." — 
XAVARIN  DE  MOUTON — For  some  reason  the  old- 
fashioned  name  haricot  has  fallen  into  disuse;  nava- 
rin  is  mentioned  to  be  a  more  dignified  appellation. 
Made  of  the  shoulder,  breast  and  neck  of  mutton  or 
lamb  cut  in  square  pieces  and  fried  on  all  sides  in  fat; 
the  fat  poured  off,  flour  shaken  in  the  meat,  broth 
and  tomato  sauce  added.  In  another  pan  several 
sorts  of  vegetables  in  small  pieces  fried  in  butter 
with  sugar  to  give  color;  vegetables,  herbs  and  meat 
then  put  together  and  simmered  about  2  hours;  small 
potatoes  added  last.  ROLLED  BREAST  OF  MUTTON- 
Boned,  chicken  stuffing  spread  upon  it,  rolled  up 
and  tied,  baked  in  gravy  3  hours.  COTELETTES  DE 
MOUTON  A  LA  JARDINIERE— Mutton  chops  with 
jardiniere  garnish.  COTELETTES  DE  MOUTON  A  LA 
SouBiSE-Chops  with  puree  of  onions.  COTELETTES 
DE  MOUTON  A  LA  PROVENCALE — Chops  coated  with 
thick  sauce  of  onions,  garlic,  butter,  eggs,  cheese; 
breaded  and  fried.  COTELETTES  A  LA  YICOMTESSE- 
Chops  coated  with  thick  sauce  of  ham.  mushrooms, 
yolks,  stock;  breaded,  fried,  paper  frills  on  bones. 
COTELETTES  AUX  PETITES  RACINES— Chops  on  a 
border  of  mashed  potatoes,  with  carrots  and  turnips 
in  long  shapes  in  brown  sauce.  COTELETTES  AUX 
TRUFFES — Chops  with  truffles  cut  in  slices  in  brown 
sauce.  COTELETTES  PANEES  GRILLEES— Breaded 
chops  broiled.  COTELETTES  AUX  POINTES  o'As- 


MUT 

FERGES-Broiled  chops  with  asparagus  tips  in  butter. 
COTELETTES  A  LA  DURCELLE — Chops  baked  in  long 
paper  cases,  three  in  each;  mushrooms,  onions, 
brown  sauce,  parsley.  COTELETTES  A  LA  MAR- 
SEiLLAiSE-Coated  with  cold  pur£e  of  onions ;  breaded 
and  browned  in  the  oven;  Soubise  sauce.  COTE- 
LETTES A  LA  BOHEMIENNE  —  Chops  marinaded, 
breaded,  broiled;  sauce  made  of  some  of  the  mari- 
nade with  tomato  and  brown  sauce  and  currant  jelly. 
COTELETTES  EN  ROBE  DE  CHAMBRE— Chops  coated 
with  veal  forcemeat,  eggs,  and  breaded;  browned  in 
oven;  gravy  sauce.  COTELETTES  A  LA  REFORME — 
Chops  breaded  with  chopped  or  grated  ham  mixed 
with  the  crumbs,  fried,  and  served  with  r£forme 
garnish.  COTELETTES  A  LA  MARQUISE— Chops  with 
a  slice  of  ham  laid  on  each,  and  veal  forcemeat  spread 
on  it;  breaded  on  top,  and  browned;  white  sauce  with 
chopped  ham.  COTELETTES  A  LA  FINANCIERE — 
Chops  braised,  served  with  financiere  garnish. — 
COTELETTES  A  LA  NELSON— Chops  breaded  with 
Parmesan  cheese  in  the  crumbs,  fried,  served  on 
border  of  mashed  potatoes,  center  filled  with  maca- 
roni and  cheese.  COTELETTES  A  LA  MAINTENON — 
Chops  wrapped  and  served  in  paper;  they  having 
been  previously  sauteed  in  butter,  with  mushrooms, 
parsley,  shallots,  brown  sauce  and  lemon  juice  added, 
some  of  the  garnish  twisted  up  with  each  chop;  baked 
or  broiled.  COTELETTES  A  LA  PRINCE  DE  GALLES — 
Pieces  of  stewed  breast  of  mutton  breaded  and  fried; 
served  with  mashed  turnips  and  gravy.  ESCALOPES 
r-E  MOUTON  AUX  FINES  HERBES — Slices  of  mutton 
from  the  chump  end  of  the  loin  cooked  in  a  pan  in 
butter,  strewed  over  with  chopped  shallots,  parsley 
and  mushrooms.  FILETS  DE  MOUTON  A  LA  MACE- 
DOINE— The  meat  of  the  loin  larded,  braised,  served 
with  macedoine  garnish.  CARBONADE  DE  MOUTON, 
SAUCE  PIQUANTE — Loin  of  mutton  cut  in  chops, 
sauteed,  served  with  sauce.  HANCHE  DE  MOUTON 
AU  Jus  r>E  GROSEILLES — Haunch  of  mutton  with 
gravy  and  currant  jelly.  QUARTIER  DE  MOUTON  A 
LA  BRETONNE — Fore  quarter  with  white  beans. 
SELLE  DE  MOUTON  A  L'ANGLAISE — Roast  saddle  of 
mutton.  GIGOT  BOUILLI — Boiled  leg  of  mutton  with 
turnips.  GIGOT  SAUCE  AUX  CAPRES — Boiled  mut- 
ton, caper  sauce.  LEG  OF  MUTTON  A  LA  MEXICAINE 
— Mutton  with  black  beans.  LEG  OF  MUTTON  A  LA 
BIGNON — Roasted  with  a  clove  of  garlic  inserted  in 
the  fleshy  part;  served  with  Bignon  potatoes.  MUT- 
TON LIKE  VENISON — Loin  of  mutton  boned,  soaked 
for  2  or  3  days  in  little  port  wine,  basted  with  wine; 
served  with  gravy  and  currant  jelly.  CAVALIER'S 
BKOIL — A  shoulder  of  mutton  half  cooked  in  the 
oven  with  a  buttered  paper  over,  scored  down  to  the 
bone,  seasonings  put  in  the  cuts;  broiled  upon  the 
gridiron ;  served  with  pickled  mushrooms.  MUTTON 
PIE — Stewed  meat  well  skimmed  of  fat,  with  onion, 
parsley,  scooped  potato  balls  and  a  top  crust  of 
good  paste;  baked  an  hour.  MUTTON  CHOPS  LIKE 
VKNISON  —  Chops  without  fat  marinaded  in  oil, 
vinegar,  salt,  pepper,  onions,  herbs;  sauteed; 
served  with  game  sauce.  MUTTON  COLLOPS — 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


NAG 

(/)  Thin  slices  or  steaks  from  the  leg-.  (2)  Scotch 
collops  are  minced  ;  either  mutton  or  beef.  CURRIED 
MUTTON  —  Mutton  in  curry  sauce;  cold,  cooked  mut- 
ton will  answer.  ROAST  MUTTON  AND  LAVEK  — 
"Mo.st  people  know  that  a  roast  leg  of  four  or  five 
year  old  mutton  (it  were  superfluous  to  expatiate 
upon  the  haunch)  with  laver  served  in  the  saucepan, 
is  a  dish  of  high  merit,  but  it  ought  never  to  be  pro- 
faned by  the  spit,  which  lets  out  the  gravy,  and 
shocks  the  sight  with  an  unseemly  perforation."  — 
MUTTON  SOUPS  —  Scotch  broth,  hodge-podge,  barley, 
Piemontaise,  Rouennaise,  Grecque,  etc. 


NAGEOIRES  (Fr.)—  Fins.  NAGEOIRES  DE  TOR- 
TUE  —  Turtle  fins  or  flippers. 

N  APERY  —  Table  linen.  Really  boiling  water 
will  remove  most  fruit  stains  from  napery;  but  I  oz. 
sal  ammoniac  and  i  oz.  salt  of  tartar,  in  a  quart  of 
water,  will  extract  them  ;  also  sherry  or  claret  stains, 
if  the  linen  be  allowed  to  soak  in  the  solution  a  short 
time. 

NAPKIN—  The  law  of  the  napkin  is  but  vaguely 
understood.  One  of  our  esteemed  metropolitan  con- 
temporaries informs  an  eager  inquirer  that  it  is  bad 
to  fold  the  napkin  after  dinner,  that  the  proper  thing 
is  to  throw  it  with  negligent  disregard  on  the  table 
beside  the  plate,  as  to  fold  it  would  be  a  reflection 
on  the  host,  and  imply  a  familiarity  that  would  not 
benefit  an  invited  guest.  But  the  thoughtful  reader 
will  agree  with  us  that  this  studied  disorder  is  likely 
to  be  a  good  deal  more  trying  to  a  fastidious  hos- 
tess than  an  unstudied  replacing  of  the  napkin  in 
good  order  beside  the  visitor's  plate.  The  proper 
thing  is  to  fold  the  fabric  with  unostentatious  care, 
and  lay  it  on  the  left  of  the  plate,  far  from  the  liquids, 
-  ]iqueurs  and  coffee,  and  thus  testify  to  the  hostess 
that  her  care  111  preparing  the  table  has  been  ap- 
preciated. The  napkin  has  played  famous  parts  in  the 
fortunes  of  men  and  women.  It  was  one  of  the  points 
admired  in  Marie  Stuart  that,  thanks  to  her  exquis- 
ite breeding  in  the  court  of  Marie  de  Medici,  her 
tables  were  more  imposing  than  the  full  court  of  her 
great  rival  and  executioner,  Elizabeth.  At  the  table 
of  the  latter  the  rudest  forms  were  maintained,  the 
dishes  were  served  on  the  table,  and  the  great 
queen  helped  herself  to  the  platter  without  fork  or 
spoon,  a  page  standing  behind  her  with  a  silver 
ewer  to  bathe  her  fingers  when  the  flesh  had  been 
torn  from  the  roasts.  At  the  court  of  the  empire 
Eugenie  was  excessively  fastidious.  The  use  of  a 
napkin  and  the  manner  of  eating  an  egg  made  or 
ruined  the  career  of  a  guest  The  great  critic,  Saint 
Beuve,  was  disgraced  and  left  off  the  visiting  list 
because  at  a  breakfast  with  the  emperor  and  em- 
press at  the  Tuilleries  he  carelessly  opened  his  nap- 
kin and  spread  it  over  his  knees  and  cut  his  egg  in 
two  in  the  middle.  The  court  etiquette  prescribed 
that  the  half  folded  napkin  should  lie"  on  the  left 
knee  to  be  used  in  the  least  obtrusive  manner  in 


NIV 

touching  the  lips,  and  the  egg  was  to  be  merely 
|  broken  on  the  larger  end  with  the  edge  of  the  spoon 
and  drained  with  its  tip.  The  truth  is,  luxury  and 
invention  push  table  appliances  so  far  that  none  can 
be  expected  to  know  the  particular  conventionality 
that  may  be  considered  good  form  in  anv  diversified 
society.  The  way  for  a  young  fellow  to  do  is  to  keep 
his  eyes  open — which  unless  he  is  in  love,  he  can 
do — and  note  what  others  do. 

NAPLES  BISCUITS— Small  sponge  cakes. 

NAPOLITAINE  (Fr.)— Neapolitan;  in  Naples 
style. 

NAPOLITAINE,  SAUCE— Brown  sauce  con- 
taining port  wine,  horse-radish  and  currant  jelly. 

NASTURTIUM— Well  known  garden  flower  of 
low  trailing  hahit;  the  green  seeds  are  pickled  as  a 
substitute  for  capers. 

XATUREL(Fr.)— Plain.  POMMES  AU  XATUREJ. 
— Potatoes  plain,  either  in  the  skins  or  without  sauce. 

NAVARIN  (Fr.)— A  brown  mutton  stew  with 
assorted  vegetables;  the  meat  and  vegetables  both 
fried  separately,  first,  then  stewed  together  with 
water  and  thickened.  The  same  as  haricot  of 
mutton. 

NAVET  (Fr.)— Turnip. 

NEAT — English  name  for  a  calf.  NEAT'S  FOOT 
OlL--The  oil  from  calve's  feet,  used  for  oiling  ma- 
chinery. NEAT'S  TONGUE — Calf's  tongue. 

NECTARINE— The  smooth -skinned  peach.  Not 
much  cultivated  in  this  country  in  comparison  with 
the  peach.  Is  cooked,  preserved  and  pickled  in  all 
ways  the  same  as  peaches.  The  seeds  are  the  flavor- 
ing ingredient  in  noyau  liqueur. 

NEGUS — Drink  of  wine  and  water.  Named  aftel 
a  Col.  Negus.  Hot  water  is  poured  to  sherry  or  port; 
sugar  and  slight  flavoring. 

NELSON  TART-Mixture  of  almond  paste,  eggs, 
butter  and  flour  richer  thaa  cake;  baked  in  a  crust. 

NESSELRODE  PUDDING— Kind  of  ice  cream, 
made  of  puree  of  chestnuts,  cream,  candied  fruits 
and  flavorings.  Nameu  alter  a  Russian  statesman. 
Can  be  made  by  preparing  a  chestnut-custard  rich 
with  yolks  and  sugar,  adding  any  kind  of  candied 
fruits  or  marrotts glnces,  and  then  an  equal  quantity 
'hick  cream  whipped,  and  flavored  with  maraschino. 

NEUCHATEL  CHEESE— Soft  kind  of  Swiss 
cheese;  comes  in  form  of  rolls,  wrapped  in  tinfoil. 
Is  made  in  this  country.  Easily  imitated  by  making 
cream-curd  cheese  in  any  dairy.  Favorite  variety 
with  a  great  number  of  hotel  patrons;  gets  better  as 
it  ripens,  and  ought  to  be  kept  in  stock  to  give  time 
to  improve. 

NILSSON  CUTLETS  —  Cold  dish  of  minced 
chicken  in  cutlet  form,  glazed  all  over  and  coated 
with  chopped  truffles  and  olives.  Dished  ornament- 
ally in  a  circle  with  salad  in  the  center. 

NIVERNAISE  (Fr.)— From  Nh-ernon;  a  mix- 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


381 


NOE 

ture  ef  vegetables  in  gravy  for  garnish ;  nearly  same 
as  macedoine  or  jardiniere. 

NOEL  (Fr.)— Christmas.  POU.DING  DE  NOEL — 
Christinas  pudding. 

NOIR  (Fr.)— Black.  CAFE  NOIR— Black  or  extra 
strong  coffee.  BEURRE  NOIR — Fried  butter,  black 
or,  rather,  brown,  used  for  sauce. 

NOIX  (Fr.)— A  nut.  Noix  DECoco — Cocoanut. 
Noix  DE  VEAU — The  cushion-shaped  piece  of  veal 
that  is  part  of  the  round,  next  the  flank,  suitable 
from  its  shape  for  larding  and  glazing. 

NOISETTE  (Fr.)— A  small  nut;  hazel  nut;  filbert; 
also,  fillets  of  meat  or  fish. 

NONNE  (Fr.)— Nun.  NUN'S  SIGHS  or  NUN'S 
SUPPERS  (Soupers  de  Nonnes) — Puff  fritters,  known 
as  Spanish  puffs. 

NOODLES — American  name  for  nouilles.  Shreds 
of  egg  paste,  sort  of  macaroni. 

NOUGAT— Several  varieties  of  candy.  ALMOND 
NOUGAT,  BROWN — Made  by  melting-  sugar  by  heat 
only,  and  stirring  into  it  split  almonds.  ALMOND 
NOUGAT,  WHITE— Sugar  melted  over  the  fire  with 
the  least  possible  amount  of  liquid,  blanched  al- 
monds stirred  in.  CORBEILLES  DE  NOUGAT — Bas- 
kets formed  of  either  of  the  foregoing  candies  in 
their  soft  state  while  hot.  TROPHY  DE  NOUGAT — 


OIL 

A  soft  candy  in  loaf  form  that  can  be  cut  like  cheese,' 
made  of  powdered  sugar,  honey,  glucose,  almonds, 
etc.  HONEY  NOUGAT — Another  name  for  the  pre- 
ceding. 

NORFOLK  DUMPLINGS— Boiled  light  bread- 
dough.  Pieces  of  the  bread  dough  taken  when  light, 
made  into  balls,  allowed  to  rise  again,  dropped  into 
boiling  water.  Eaten  either  with  meat  or  sweet 
sauce. 

NORWEGIAN  PUDDINGS— Cup-puddings  or 
cakes  served  with  wine  sauce.  Made  of  %  Ib.  butter, 
3£  Ib.  sugar,  6  eggs,  ^  Ib.  ground  rice,  %  Ib.  flour, 
2  teaspoons  baking-powder,  flavoring;  mixed  like 
cake,  put  in  buttered  cups;  baked  in  slack  oven,  or 
steamed. 

NOUILLES  (Fr.)— A  yellow  paste  made  of  flour 
wetted  with  yolk  of  egg  only,  rolled  out  thin  as  pa- 
per, cut  in  shreds  for  soups,  or  cut  in  leaves  and  fancy 
shapes  to  decorate  pat£s  and  meat  pies  with;  also  for 
making  raviolis,  noques,  etc.  (See  Italian  Cookery.) 
Nouilles  are  cooked  with  cheese,  or  with  butter,  or 
tomatoes  and  gravy,  in  all  the  same  ways  as  maca- 
roni. 

NOUVELLES  (Fr.)— New.  POMMES  Nou-r 
VELLES — New  potatoes. 

NOYAU — A 'liqueur  or  cordial  flavored  vith  nec- 
tarine, bitter  almond  and  peach  kernels.  NOYAU 
CREAM — Whipped  cream  flavored  with  noyau  and 
set  with  gelatine.  (See  Bavaroise.) 

NUDELN  (Ger.)— Nouilles;  noodles. 

O. 

OATMEAL — An  article  of  the  first  necessity  now 
in  every  hotel;  eaten  both  at  breakfast  and  supper. 
The  rolled  oats  are  much  easier  to  cook  than  coarse 
oatmeal.  When  the  latter  is  used  it  needs  to  be 
soaked  in  water  over  night,  then  boiled  2  hours  to 
make  mush  or  porridge.  It  is  eaten  -with  cream  or 
milk.  "  Oatmeal  used  to  be  the  staple  dietary  arti- 
cle of  our  forefathers,  but  it  is  curious  to  note  that 
while  its  sale  has  fallen  off  to  a  large  extent  in  Scot- 
land, it  has  latterly  increased  greatly  in  England. 
This  is  surely  a  silent  revenge  for  Bannockburn.  We 
have  forgotten  our  national  poet's  line,  '  The  Gale- 
some  parritch,  chief  o'  Scotia's  food;'  and  England, 
which  is  '  annexing'  every  good  thing  that  Scotland 
possesses,  has  now  appropriated  her  porridge, 
while  we  poor  Scotch  are  gradually  deterioating  our 
race  by  the  consumption  of  tea  and  white  bread." 
OATMEAL  PUDDING  WITH  CREAM — Made  of  i  qt. 
boiling  milk,  4  tablespoons  oatmeal,  4  tablespoons 
flour,  little  salt.  Oatmeal  and  flour  stirred  up  with 
cold  milk  then  poured  into  the  boiling  milk;  cooked 

WHITE  NOUGAT  PYRAMID  SUR  SOCLE.  20  minutes  or  longer ;  eaten  with  cream  and  sugar. 

Ornamental  sugar  work  on  a  decorated  stand.  OAT  CAKE— Akron  oatmeal  with  little  butter  rubbed 

An  ornamental  design  built  up  of  either  of  the  above     in  and  salt'  made  into  douSh  with  hot  water>  rolled 

in  the  soft  state  while  hot,  such  as  a  hollow  globe  of  |  out  thin  and  size  of  a  dinncr  P!ate>  cut  m  q"arters. 

brown  nougat  formed  in  a  mould  and  supported  by  a  j  baked  in  oven. 

figure  of  Atlas  in  cast  candy.    TURKISH  NOUGAT —  I     OIGXON  (Fr.)— Onion. 


382 


THE    STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


OIL 

OIL,  FRYING— "'There  are  two  schools  of  cook- 
cry  in  France,  as  distinct  from  one  another  as  the 
la  Jig  lie  d'1  Oil  is  distinct  from  lanffued'Oc.  There 
is  the  kitchen  of  the  North — and  of  Paris— in  which 
butter  is  the  principal  vehicle;  and  there  is  the  kitch- 
en of  the  South — or  Midi — in  which  oil  is  the  chief 
assimilator;  and  the  most  trustworthy  authorities 
on  French  gastronomy  have  always  held  that  the 
cuisine  an  beurnr  was  far  more  conducive  to  diges- 
tion than  the  cuisine  a  r/tuile."  Such  is  the  theory 
deduced  from  cookery  books  but,  in  fact,  butter  is 
excessively  dear  in  Paris  and  very  little  is  used  in 
cooking.  The  need  of  it  is  lessened  by  the  employ- 
ment of  gravies  and  sauces  instead,  and  for  frying' 
oil,  beef  suet  and  lard  are  used.  In  the  United  States 
cotton  seed  oil  is  becoming  the  principal  medium  for 
frying.  The  cheapness  of  an  article  soon  leads  to  a 
trial  and  adoption  without  regard  to  arguments- 
The  cheapest  grades  of  cotton  seed  oil  give  out  an 
unpleasant  smell  and  taste  when  heated  but  the  bet- 
ter grades  do  not,  it  is  but  a  question  of  quality  and 
price;  and  much  of  the  lard  used  by  those  who  ob- 
ject to  the  oil  is  but  the  same  oil  in  disguise.  (See 
Cotton  Seed  Oil  Lard,  Imitation  Sntter.}  -The Jews 
,  who  fry  much  fish  use  oil  for  frying,  it  is,  or  has 
been,  neat's  foot  oil,  but  "vegetable  oil"  now  takes 
the  place  of  that.  "  Potato  chips"  and  French  fried 
potatoes  are  now  advertised  as  being  fried  without 
the  use  of  lard — meaning  that  oil  is  used.  The  hotel 
steward  buys  oil  by  the  barrel  and  satisfies  himself 
by  previous  trial  of  a  small  lot  whether  it  is  suffi- 
ciently refined  for  his  purpose. 

OIL,  SALAD — Olive  oil  is  obtained  by  crushing 
and  pressing  the  olives  in  sacks,  it  is  then  subjected 
to  refining  processes.  A  vast  quantity  is  produced 
yearly  in  the  old  countries  and  California  is  con- 
tributing largely  to  the  supply,  which  she  usually 
ships  in  cans;  so  it  is  not  difficult,  as  is  sometimes 
represented,  to  obtain  real  olive  oil;  but  there  is  a 
likelihood  that  imitation  oil  being  refined  cotton  oil, 
or  pea-nut  or  both  mixed,  may  be  put  upon  the  un- 
wary purchaser  at  the  price  of  pure  olive.  The  best 
test  is  heating  some  of  the  oil  in  a  frying  pan,  let- 
ting it  become  hot  enough  to  smoke,  then  if  the  ex- 
perimenter have  had  experience  with  low  grades 
cotton  oil,  he  will  detect  sufficient  of  the  same  smell 
in  the  refined  article  to  apprise  him  that  it  is  cotton 
oil  still.  Much  cotton  oil  goesabroad  in  barrels  and 
comes  back  in  flasks  labelled  pure  olive  oil.  The 
probability  is  in  most  cases  it  is  a  mixture  of  real 
olive  with  pea-nut  oil  and  double-refined  cotton 
seed.  As  only  the  thoroughly  educated  palate  can 
detect  the  difference  there  is  no  particular  harm  in 
this  but  the  making  the  consumer  pay  for  a  cheaper 
imitation  the  high  price  of  the  genuine  article. 
Salad  oil  is  one  of  the  items  of  serious  expense  in 
hotels  and  restaurants  and  the  subject  is  worthy  of 
thought  and  attention. 

OKRA  —  Well-known  American  vegetable,  the 
seed  pods  of  a  plant  like  a  hollyock  which  grows 
from  4  to  6  feet  high.  There  are  two  varieties 


OLI 

grown  for  market;  the  best  bears  the  short,  thick, 
green  pods  which  remain  tender  longer  than  the 
other  kind,  which  are  long,  pale  green,  slender  and 
wiry.  Few  people,  perhaps  none,  like  the  taste  or 
appearance  of  cooked  okra  at  first,  but  the  liking 
grows  so  that  no  vegetable  is  more  welcome  to  the 
people  of  the  South  than  this,  not  excepting  aspar- 
agus or  peas.  It  cooks  to  a  sort  of  mucilage,  if  pre- 
pared to  the  Creole  taste,  that  is  stewed  in  very 
little  water.  Where  this  is  considered  an  objection  it 
is  cooked  in  plenty  of  water,  salted,  and  the  mucilage 
is  not  then  so  apparent.  STEWED  OKKA — The  young 
and  tender  pods  cut  off  at  each  end,  washed,  boiled 
in  salted  water  about  %  hour,  the  water  poured  off; 
butter,  pepper,  little  more  salt  mixed  in  by  tipping 
up  the  vessel;  okra  served  without  breaking  it  in 
vegetable  dishes.  OKRA  A  LA  CREOLE — The  young 
pods  trimmed,  simmered  in  just  enough  water  to 
cover  with  little  salt,  and  buttered  paper  under  the 
lid.  When  soft,  a  few  spoonfuls  olive  oil  and  a 
minced  red  or  green  pepper  shaken  in;  served  as  a 
vegetable.  STEWED  OKRA  WITH  TOMATO  SAUCE — 
Tender  pods  trimmed  and  cooked  nearly  done  in 
salt  water  with  a  slice  of  bacon,  taken  up  and  trans- 
ferred to  a  saucepan  containing  tomato  sauce  and 
brown  sauce  mixed,  with  little  butter.  STEWED 
OKRA  AND  TOMATOES — Raw  sliced  tomatoes  and 
okra  sliced  crosswise  stewed  together  with  season- 
ings; served  as  a  vegetable  like  corn  and  tomatoes 
cr  succotash.  OKRA  SOUPS  —  Gumbo  soups,  and 
okra  and  tomato  soups.  DRIED  OKRA — This  sells 
in  New  York  at  about  a  dollar  a  pound  at  retail.  It 
is  evaporated  in  slices  like  apples,  is  used  after 
soaking  in  that  form,  and  is  also  ground  to  powder 
and  used  as,  gumbo  file. 

OLIVE — The  fruit  of  the  olive  tree,  formerly  a 
special  product  of  southern  Europe,  now  the  largest 
and  best  come  from  California.  For  hotel  use  olives 
should  be  bought  by  the  keg,  as  glass  packing, 
labels,  etc.,  cost  as  much  as  the  fruit.  The  majority 
of  Americans  are  fond  of  olives  and  the  demand  is 
increasing.  OLIVES  IN  BRINE— As  bought  in  kegs 
and  jars  the  olives  are  in  salt  water;  they  have  been 
gathered  green  and  steeped  for  a  short  time  in  lime 
water  and  lye,  which  counteracts  the  oil  in  them, 
and  after  that  they  will  take  up  salt  as  well  as  cu- 
cumbers and  are  thus  preserved.  To  PPEVENT 
SOFTENING — Olives  must  be  kept  under  the  brine, 
in  the  dark,  covered  up  from  the  air,  and  never 
taken  from  the  keg  with  the  hands;  nearly  full  kegs 
will  sometimes  turn  soft  and  have  to  be  thrown 
away  through  neglect  of  these  precautions;  the  best 
package  is  the  firkin-shaped  bucket  with  a  large 
bung  in  the  lid;  a  wooden  spoon  can  be  used  to 
dip  them  from  the  bung  hole,  which  can  then  be 
tightly  closed.  OLIVES  WITH  SALADS — Besides  the 
favorite  method  of  eating  olives  raw,  and  salted  as 
they  are,  they  are  valued  as  an  addition  and  orna- 
ment to  every  sort  of  salad,  and  only  a  little  less 
welcome  when  stoned  and  served  in  meat  sauces. 
EATING  OLIVES — There  is  etiquette  in  eatir.g  olives. 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


383 


OLI 

Cardinal  Richelieu  is  said  to  have  detected  an  ad- 
venturer, who  was  passing  himself  off  as  a  noble- 
man, by  his  helping  himself  to  olives  with  a  fork; 
it  being-  comme  il  faut  to  use  the  fingers  for  that 
purpose.  OLIVE  PICKLES  —  Some  people  do  not 
like  olives  as  generally  packed  in  brine.  To  such 
we  recommend  the  soaking  of  the  olives  over  night 
in  fresh  water,  for  which  vinegar  may  afterwards 
be  substituted.  By  this  means  the  olives  are  con- 
verted into  a  nice  pickle,  and  are  very  appetizing. 
OLIVE  SAUCE— Olives  in  France  are  introduced  in 
sauces  for  calves'  head  and  fowls;  and  a  duck  is 
served  with  olive  sauce.  For  these  purposes  the 
olives  are  turned  with  a  knife,  so  as  to  take  out  the 
stone  and  leave  the  fruit  whole.  DUMAS'  "How  TO 
COOK  AN  OLivE"-Place  the  olive  inside  an  anchovy 
the  anchovy  inside  a  lark,  the  lark  inside  a  quail, 
the  quail  inside  a  partridge,  the  partridge  inside  a 
pheasant,  and  the  pheasant  inside  a  turkey;  roast 
the  turkey  until  well  done.  Take  the  pheasant  on1 
of  the  turkey,  the  partridge  out  of  the  pheasant,  the 
quail  out  of  the  partridge,  the  lark  out  of  the  quail, 
the  anchovy  out  of  the  lark,  and  the  olive  out  of  the 
anchovy.  The  olive,  imbued  with  the  essential 
juices  of  all  these  toothsome  viands,  will,  Dumas 
asserts,  then  be  a  hors  d'eeitvre,  fit  to  set  before  a 
king. 

OLIVES,  MEAT— English  name,  without  ap- 
parent reason,  for  thin  slices  of  meat  rolled  up  with 
forcemeat  inside;  thus  there  are  "veal  olive"  pies, 
the  rolls  placed  in  order  in  a  dish  with  gravy  and  a 
crust  of  paste,  and  many  similar  dishes. 

OLLA  PODRIDA— See  Spanish  cookery. 

OMELET — Eggs  slightly  beaten,  cooked  like  a 
pancake  in  a  frying  pan,  rolled  or  half  turned. 
There  is  an  important  little  secret  in  making  these 
delicacies.  A  very  clean  frying  pan  is  of  course 
indispensable, and  after  having  placed  about  an  ounce 
of  fresh  butter  to  melt  in  the  frying-pan,  the  oiled 
butter  should  be  poured  into  the  omeiette  mixture, 
and  thoroughly  whisked  into  it.  This  will  not  only 
prevent  the  omelet  sticking  to  the  pan,  but  will  give 
it  arichness  not  otherwise  obtainale.  OMELETTE 
AUX  ROGNONS — Specialty.  "Well,  now,  try  this: 
Stew  the  kidneys,  add  seasoning,  a  pinch  of  cayenne 
(or,  better  still,  a  small  whole  capsicum-pod),  and 
an  apple  or  two.  When  done,  strain  off;  chop  the 
kidneys  fine;  make  a  savory  omelette;  rub  the  apples 
tnrough  a  tammy,  and  add  them  to  the  gravy; 
thicken  it,  and  put  it  in  the  bottom  of  a  scalding-hot 
dish;  place  the  kidneys  in  the  omelette,  and  let  the 
latter  almost  float  in  the  gravy,  (or  sauce)  and  serve. 
Ye  gods!  what  a  feast!"  OMELETTE  WITH  SPIN- 
ACH— Spinach  boiled,  drained,  chopped  fine,  sea- 
soned with  little  onion  fried  in  butter.  A  savory 
otnelut  made  and  served  in  hot  dish  with  the  spin- 
ach around  it.  ASPARAGUS  OMELET — Green  points 
of  asparagus  boiled,  drained,  seasoned,  mixed  in  an 
omelet  and  cooked  in  it.  PARSLEY  OMELET — Three 
eggs,  tablespoonful  of  cream  and  same  of  chopped 


OME 

parsley,  slightly  beaten  together;  cooked  on  one 
side,  salted,  rolled  up.  KIDNEY  OMELET — Mutton 
kidneys  thinly  sliced,  fried,  and  sauce  made  to  them 
with  wine.  A  savory  omelet  made  and  kidneys  in- 
closed in  it,  with  the  thick  sauce.  TOMATO  OME- 
LET— Onion  fried  in  butter,  and  tomatoes  added  and 
dried  down,  seasoned.  Omelet  made,  cooked  on 
one  side  and  tomatoes  inclosed  in  it.  OMELETTE  A 
LA  MINUTE—"  Before  an  English  cook  would  have 
fairly  smashed  her  eggs,  a  French  cliej  has  whisked 
them,  tossed  in  a  pinch  of  salt  and  chopped  parsley, 
shaken  all  over  a  roaring  coke  fire  as  if  he  was  seized 
with  sudden  frenzy,  and  plumped  his  omelet  into  a 
dish  cooked  to  a  turn.  The  Granville  Hotel  has  a 
chef  who  is  great  at  that  triumph  of  the  art  culinary 
— an  omelet.  Especially  does  he  excel  with  shrimp 
and  truffle  omelets."  OMELETTE  A  LA  JARDINIERB 
—Mixed  vegetables  comprising  mushrooms,  carrots, 
turnips,  beans,  peas,  cooked  in  stock  with  herbs; 
brown  sauce  and  thickening  added.  Half  the  vege- 
tables mixed  in  an  omelet,  rest  poured  over  when 
done.  OMELETTE, AU  NATUREL — Plain  omelet 
OMELETTE  AUX  HUITRES — Oyster  omelet.  OME- 
LETTE AUX  OLIVES  —  Omelet  with  chopped  olives 
and  brown  sauce.  OMELETTE  AUX  CHAMPIGNONS 
— Mushroom  omelet.  OMELETTE  AU  PARMESAN — 
With  grated  Parmesan  cheese.  OMELETTE  AU 
FROMAGE — Cheese  omelet.  OMELETTE  AU  JAMBON 
Ham  omelet.  OMELETTE  AU  LARD — Bacon  omelet. 
OMELETTE  A  LA  PUREE  DE  VOLAILLE  —  Pure*  of 
chicken  in  cream  rolled  up  in  the  omelet.  OME- 
LETTE AUX  TRUFFES— Sliced  truffles  in  brown  sauce 
in  the  center  of  the  omelet.  OMELETTE  AUX  EPI- 
NARDS — Spinach  omelet,  green  color,  the  purfie  of 
spinach  mixed  with  the  eggs  before  cooking. 
OMELETTE  AUX  FINES  HERBES— Mixture  of  shal- 
lots, mushrooms  and  parsley  lightly  fried,  mixed  in 
the  omelet  before  cooking. .  OMELETTE  A  L'AL- 
GERIENNE — Rice  boiled,  seasoned  with  butter  and 
tomato  sauce,  spread  inside  an  omelet;  served  with 
tomato  sauce.  OMELETTE  A  L'INDIENNE — Onion 
lightly  fried  in  oil,  with  curry  powder  and  cream 
mixed  in  the  omelet  before  cooking.  Boiled  and 
seasoned  rice  spread  on  the  omelet  and  folded  up  in 
it;  served  with  curry  sauce.  SAVORY  SOUFFLE — 
Light  omelet  made  by  separating  the  yolks  and 
whites,  yolks  beaten  with  little  cream  and  season- 
ings, whites  whipped  firm  and  added;  cooked  by 
stirring  in  the  omelet  pan  and  finish  in  the  oven. 
SPANISH  OMELET — Tomatoes,  chopped  ham,  green 
pepper  and  onions  fried  together,  placed  part  inside 
and  rest  around  the  omelet.  OMELETTE  A  LA  PRO- 
VENCALE — Onion  omelet  with  little  garlic,  the  on - 
ions  and  garlic  lightly  fried  first,  rolled  up  in  the 
omelet.  TRAVELERS'  OMELET  —  Cold,  substitute 
for  sandwiches.  Omelet  like  a  pancake,  spread 
with  potted  ham  or  tongue  and  mustard.  SPORTS- 
MAN'S OMELET — With  puree  of  game  inside  and 
hot  fiimet  of  game  sauce.  OMELETTE  A  LA  MII.A- 
NAiSF.-Macaroni  and  cheese  in  tomato  sauce  inside  an 
omelet,  cheese  sifted  over  outside  while  hot  enough 


384 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


OX  I 

to  partly  melt  it;  sauce.  OMELETTE  AUX  CONFI- 
TURES— Sweet  omelet  souffle'e  with  marmalade  in 
the  baking  dish  under  it,  baked,  sugared  over  top. 
OMELETTE  A  LA  CLAREMONT — Sweet  egg  pancake 
with  apple  marmalade  inside,  sugared  over  and 
glazed.  OMELETTE  A  LA  CELESTINE— Omelet  with 
frangipane  pastry  cream  inside,  apricot  jam  diluted 
with  kirschwasser  poured  over.  OMELETTE  AU 
CHOCOLATE  —  SoufHee  made  by  adding  dissolved 
chocolate  in  warm  cream  to  yolks,  the  whites 
whipped  and  added ;  cooked  partly  in  omelet  pan  on 
fire,  finished  in  the  oven.  MERINGUED  OMELET — 
Omelet  rolled  up  with  jam  inside,  meringued  over 
and  browned.  OMELETTE  AU  RHUM — Rum  omelet. 
Omelet  with  little  sugar  and  cream  in  it  and  spoon- 
ful of  rum;  when  turned  on  dish  sugared  over, 
marked  in  stripes  with  red-hot  wire  on  the  sugar, 
warm  rum  poured  around  and  set  on  fire.  OME- 
LETTE SOUFFLE — Puff  omelet,  sweet  and  flavored; 
made  with  i  teaspoon  sugar  to  each  egg,  yolks  and 
whites  whipped  separately,  with  sugar  and  tea- 
spoonful  milk  with  the  yolks; -all  stirred  together, 
baked  in  dish  or  in  frying  pan  partly  on  top  and  fin- 
ished in  oven.  Sugar  sifted  over  and  should  be 
glazed  with  red-hot  shovel  or  iron.  Omelettes 
soufflees  are  made  almost  as  various  as  ice  creams, 
with  different  flavorings  and  mixtures  of  pistachios, 
almonds,  etc.  (Sff  Eggs.) 

OXIOX— "  We  give  the  name  of  onion  to  all  the 
plants  of  the  onion  tribe.  The  leek  is  to  us  an  on- 
ion, and  so  is  garlic  and  the  shallot.  In  old  En- 
glish the  leek  was  the  type,  and  garlic  was  but  a 
gar-leek — a  spear-headed  leek.  In  the  language  of 
science,  garlic  is  made  the  standard,  and  the  onion 
is  but  a  species  of  allium  or  garlic.  It  may  be  taken 
for  granted  that  of  all  the  flavoring  substances  used 
in  cookery,  the  onion  is,  after  salt,  the  most  valu- 
able; and  cunningly  concealed  in  a  sauce,  in  a  stew, 
or  in  a  soup,  it  yields  enjoyment  even  to  those  who 
would  carefully  put  it  from  them  if  they  saw  it." 
"A  famous  epicure  once  said  that  two  things  were 
absolutely  indispensable  to  a  good  dinner  and  with- 
*  out  either  of  them  the  cook's  art  is  lost.  He  meant 
the  onion  and  the  truffle.  For  the  truffle  in  recent 
years  several  substitutes  have  been  found,  but  the 
onion  still  holds  its  own  unrivaled  as  the  essence  of 
all  dishes  that  are  prized  because  of  their  flavor. 
The  onion  is  the  sheet  anchor  of  the  skillful  cook. 
It  is  impossible  to  prepare  the  delicate  Bordelaise 
sauce  without  resorting  to  the  use  of  onions  and  a 
shade  of  garlic.  This  may  suprise  many  of  those 
who  detest  the  very  mention  of  the  onion,  but  it  is 
nevertheless  a  fact,  and  it  is  the  judicious  use  of 
these  two  seasonings  that  stamps  the  expert  cook." 
ONIONS  FOR  HEALTH — "Another  writer,  advocat- 
ing their  use,  says:  During  unhealthy  seasons,  when 
diphtheria  and  like  contagious  diseases  prevail,  on- 
ions ought  to  be  eaten  raw  at  least  once  a  week. 
Onions  are  invigorating,  prophylactic  bevond  de- 
scription." ONIONS  FOR  A  COLD — "For  a  cold  on 
the  chest  there  is  no  better  specific,  for  most  persons, 


ORA 

than  well  boiled  or  roasted  onions."  ONIONS  A  LA 
CREME— Onions  boiled  in  salted  water,  drained,  put 
in  cream  sauce.  STEWED  ONIONS — Cut  in  quarters, 
boiled  in  salted  water,  drained,  and  put  into  butter 
sauce  or  cream  sauce.  FRIED  ONIONS — (/)  Sliced  in 
a  frying  pan  and  saut^ed  till  partly  brown  and  all 
tender,  fat  drained  off,  seasoned.  (2)  Cut  in  rin^s, 
fried  in  kettle  of  hot  lard  like  fried  potatoes,  drained, 
salted.  BAKED  ONIONS — Parboiled,  drained,  placed 
in  baking  pan  with  butter,  little  sugar  and  water, 
salt;  basted  while  baking  till  brown,  and  glazed. 
OIGNONS  AU  Jus — Boiled  onions  with  meat  gravy. 
OIGNONS  FARCIS — Centers  cut  out,  stuffed,  baked. 
OIGNONS  A  LA  POULETTE — Button  onions  in  yellow 
sauce  thickened  with  yolks.  PUREE  n'OioxoNs  A 
LA  BRETONNE — Onions  mashed  through  a  strainer, 
simmered  with  meat  glaze,  served  with  fried  bread 
in  shapes.  ONION  SAUCES  —  Soubise  sauce  both 
white  ar.d  brown,  Bretonne,  etc.  (See  Sauces.) — 
ONION  SOUPS — Cream  of  onions,  pur^e  of  onions, 
Soubise,  etc.  (See  Soups.) 

OPPOSSUM  —  American  country  luxury.  The 
'possum  is  like  a  young  pig;  its  skin  is  cooked  with 
it  the  same  way,  being  freed  from  the  hair  by  scald- 
ing and  scraping.  The  famous  Southern  native  dish 
of  'POSSUM  AND  SWEET  POTATOES  has  the  'pos- 
sum split  open,  surrounded  with  potatoes  cut  length- 
wise, all  baked  in  a  pan  together  with  salt,  pepper 
and  lard  or  fat  of  some  kind.  Served  with  corn 
bread.  This  animal  is  hunted  with  dogs;  is  found 
in  hollow  trees. 

ORANGE— How  TO  EAT  AN  ORANGE-  In  Flori- 
da, and  many  other  parts  of  the  country,  the  orange 
is  cut  in  halves  and  its  juice  and  pulp  are  passed  to 
the  mouth  with  a  teaspoon.  In  Havana  the  orange 
is  served  whole  on  the  table,  peeled  down  to  the 
juicy  "meat"  of  the  fruit,  and  you  present  the 
golden  ball  to  your  lips  on  the  prongs  of  a  fork. 
How  TO  SERVE  ORANGES — The  best  hotel  plan  of 
serving  is  this:  the  waiter  with  the  point  of  a  pen- 
knife divides  the  peel  only,  in  four  quarters  without 
quite  severing  them  at  the  bottom,  then  removes  the 
peel  from  the  orange  which  he  further  pares  of  its 
white  coat;  he  then  puts  the  orange  back  in  its  peel 
which  is  like  four  leaves  to  a  flower,  and  so  presents 
it  to  the  guests.  Another  way  is  to  peel  the  or- 
anges, divesting  them  as  much  as  possible  of  the 
|  white  inside  rind  as  well,  and  pile  them  on  a  folded 
'  napkin  in  the  fruit  basket  or  compotiere.  A  method 
j  in  advance  of  that  for  a  family  table  or  party  at  one 
;  table,  is  to  take,  say,  4  or  6  oranges,  peel  them  care- 
,  fully,  removing  all  the  rind ;  then  pull  the  natural 
sections  half  apart,  dividing  them  about  half  way ; 
stick  a  clove  in  the  top  point  of  each  section;  bunch 
all  the  oranges  together  on  a  handsomely  folded  nap- 
kin in  a  compotiere,  and  with  the  loosened  sections 
slightly  spreading  outwards  the  whole  looks  like 
one,  like  some  novel  sort  of  fruit  or  flower,  and  the 
further  separation  is  easily  accomplished  with  a  tea- 
spoon. To  PREPARE  AN  ORANGE  FOR  EATING— 
"Joseph  gave  me  a  sample  of  his  work  at  my  house. 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


385 


ORA  ^ 

He  sent  my  servant  out  for  two  oranges  and  a  hunch  ; 
of  violets.  He  took  the  orange  and  cut  it  with  his  j 
penknife  so  as  to  resemble  a  basket,  deftly  extracted  . 
the  fruit,  cut  out  all  the  eatable  part,  replaced  it  in  j 
the  basket,  poured  the  wasted  juice  over  this,  added 
kirsch  and  sugar.  Then  with  a  sharp  penknife  he 
cut  u  longitudinal  slit  in  the  handle  of  the  basket, 
and  inserted  the  violets  in  this,  making  of  the  orange- 
basket  an  enlremet,  pretty  enough  to  be  served  on 
any  table.  Whilst  performing  this  feat  of  culinary 
legerdemain  (for  it.  was  done  so  deftly  and  expedi- 
tiously  that  it  really  was  legerdemain*),  he  called  my 
attention  to  the  fact  that  he  never  once  touched  the 
fruit  with  his  hands."  BUY  A  GROVE — "An  orange 
true  will  hear  fruit  until  it  arrives  at  the  age  of  150 
years,  and  there  are  instances  recorded  of  orange 
trees  bearing  when  500  years  old.  In  Malta  and  Na- 
ples, 15,000  oranges  have  been  picked  from  a  single 
tree;  and  there  is  one  noted  tree  in  the  Sandwich 
Islands  that  has  been  estimated  to  bear  20,000  in  one 
season.  ORANGE  HONEY — Yellow  jam  made  of  3 
oranges,  i  lemon,  i  Ib.  sugar,  %  Ib.  butter,  8  yolks, 
i  egg;  sugar  juice  and  grated  rinds  boiled  together, 
butter  and  eggs  added;  simmered.  Like  honey,  for 
rilling  mirletons,  fanchonettes,  cheese-cakes,  dar- 
ioles,  talmouses,  turnovers,  tarts,  jelly  cakes.  TAN- 
GERINE JELLY — Made  of  %  Ib.  sugar,  i  oz.  gelatine, 
juice  of  15  Tangerine  oranges,  2  sour  oranges,  i 
lemon,  peel  of  i  orange;  gelatine  dissolved  in  hot 
water, 'sugar,  peel,  juice  added,  strained;  to  make  3 
pints  by  adding  water;  set  in  moulds.  ORANGE 
MARMALADE — Oranges  peeled,  the  peel  boiled  3  or 4 
hours,  in  3  or  4  waters,  till  quite  tender  and  bitter- 
m-ss  ;ill  extracted;  then  shred  as  fine  as  hay;  to  every 
dozea  oranges  allowed  4  lemons,  and  juice  of  all 
squeezed  into  kettle,  and  %  as  much  water  besides; 
to  each  pint  of  juice  ij^  Ibs.  sugar,  the  peel  added; 
all  boiled  till  thick  enough  to  keep.  COMPOTE  OF 
OKANGES — (/)  Oranges  divided  in  sections  [peeled]; 
to  S  oranges  i  Ib.  sugar,  %  cup  water,  rind  of  i  or- 
ange; boiled  to  make  syrup;  when  a  little  cool 
poured  over  the  oranges;  eaten  cold.  (2)  Oranges 
divested  of  peel  and  rind,  boiled,  without  dividing, 
in  2  waters  for  J^  hour,  then  boiled  in  syrup;  peel 
boiled  longer  in  3  waters,  then  shredded  and  boiled 
in  syrup;  served  on  top  of  the  oranges ;  cold  like  a 
preserve.  ORANGES  A  LADEMIDOFF — Like  compote 
Xo.  i,  with  maraschino  in  the  syrup.  ORANGES  A 
LA  PORTUGAISE — Orange  skins  emptied  with  a  tea- 
spoon, filled  with  orange  ice  and  fruits,  served  frozen. 
C'ROUTES  AUX  ORANGES-Quarters  of  oranges  boiled 
a  few  minutes  in  syrup,  served  on  thin  shapes  of 
bread  fried  in  butter.  ORANGE  FRITTERS — Peeled 
and  quartered  oranges  scalded  in  boiling  syrup, 
drained,  dipped  in  batter,  fried;  sauce  or  powdered 
sugar.  ORANGE  JELLY' — Sugar,  water  and  gelatine 
boiled  with  white  of  egg  and  strained;  orange  rind 
added  to  it  warm;  orange  juice  filtered  separately 
and  added;  all  strained  into  mould  and  set  on  ice. 
(See  Je/lief.)  ORANGES  FILLED  WITH  JELLY — Or- 
ange skins  emptied  with  teaspoon,  filled  with  jellies 


ORA 

of  two  or  more  colors,  set  on  ice,  cut,  and  colors  ar- 
ranged alternately  to  serve.  ORANGE  ICE — Sugar- 
syrup,  glucose,  orange  peel  steeped,  and  orange 
juice;  frozen.  CROQUEMBOUCHE  OF  ORANGES — 
Sugar  boiled  to  the  crack,  pared  sections  of  oranges 
dipped  in  and  placed  in  order  while  hot  in  a  mould; 
the  casing  becomes  candy  when  cold,  and  the  form 
is  turned  out.  FLAN  D'ORANGES  —  An  open  pie 
filled  with  stewed  oranges,  custard  on  top.  FOL- 
DINGS AUX  ORANGES — Orange  puddings  of  as  many 
sorts  as  lemon  puddings,  either  orange  bread-pud- 
dings, oranges  and  rice,  or  tapioca,  or  starch,  orange 
custard,  etc.  BEIGNETS  D'ORANGES — Orange  frit- 
ters. CREME  D'ORANGES — Orange  cream.  GLACE 
CREME  D'ORANGES — Orange  ice-cream.  ORANGE 
SAUCE  FOR  DUCKS — See  Bigarade.  ORANGE  PIES- 
Made  as  lemon  pies  in  three  or  more  ways.  (See 
Lemons.)  ORANGE  PUDDING — Specialty.  Made  of 
2  stale  small  sponge  cakes,  4  oranges,  3  oz.  sugar,  i 
oz.  butter,  3  eggs,  I  cup  milk;  boiling  milk  to  sponge 
cakes,  little  grated  orange  rind,  all  the  juice  and 
other  ingredients;  baked.  CHARTREUSE  OF  OR- 
ANGES— Oranges  not  peeled,  cut  in  slices  shape  of 
the  natural  sections,  dipped  in  strong  orange  jelly, 
placed  around  a  mould  set  in  ice;  when  set,  filled  up 
with  any  sort  of  jelly,  or  Bavarian,  or  ice  cream. 
ORANGE  SNOW — Orange  jelly  with  whipped  whites 
stirred  in  when  about  to  set,  and  all  whipped  up 
white;  set  in  moulds.  GELEE  MOUSSEUSE  A  L'OR- 
A*  GE — French  name  of  orange  snow  above.  OR- 
ANGE SALAD— Sweet;  made  of  6  oranges,  %  Ib.  rai- 
sins, 2  oz.  sugar,  brandy  or  wine;  5  of  the  oranges 
peeled  and  in  sections,  raisins  cut  and  stoned,  soaked 
in  sugar  and  brandy  and  mixed  in,  juice  of  other  or- 
ange squeezed  over.  (See  Ambrosia.)  ORANGES 
WITH  STRAWBERRIES — "  Nothing  can  surpass  the 
method  of  eating  strawberries  with  cream.  The 
combination  is  not  only  delicious  in  itself,  but  car- 
ries with  it  the  happiest  remembrances  of  rural  life 
and  childish  innocence.  But  cream  is  not  always  to 
be  had,  and  some  people  are  afraid  of  it.  The  Span- 
iards have  another  noble  combination,  moistening 
the  strawberries  with  the  juice  of  a  sweet  orange. 
There  are  gastrologers  who  go  further,  and  say  that 
an  addition  of  orange  peel  (by  grating  the  zest  with 
a  lump  of  sugar)  is  an  immense  improvement;  and 
that  it  must  have  been  in  this  fashion  the  fruit  was 
served  in  the  banquets  of  Mount  Ida."  KINDS  OF 
ORANGES — It  is  said  that  about  100  varieties  of  or- 
anges are  known  in  Italy.  "  'Blood'  oranges,  as 
they  are  called,  come  mostly  from  Valencia,  but  a 
few  from  Malta.  The  aromatic  and  delicious  Tan- 
gerines hail  from  St.  Michael's,  and  also  from  Lis- 
bon, and  varies  considerably  in  price,  according  to 
supply.  Seville  oranges  come  from  the  place  of  that 
name,  and,  as  most  people  know,  are  now  almost 
exclusively  used  for  making  marmalade  and  orange 
wine."  CANNING  ORANGES — "Oranges  have  rec- 
ently been  successfully  canned  The  fruit  is  peeled 
and  broken  into  its  natural  sections  before  canning, 
and  when  taken  out  is  just  ready  for  use.  This  is 


386 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


ORC 

likely  to  become  an  important  industry  in  the  orange- 
growing  districts  of  California  and  Florida."  OR- 
ANGE TRIFLE-  Peeled  oranges  sliced  in  a  dish,  sugar 
over,  another  layer  and  sugar,  boiled  custard  poured 
to  the  oranges  warm,  egg  whites  or  cream  (whipped) 
on  top  when  cold;  served  with  cake.  ORANGEADE- 
Like  lemonade.  ORANGE  WiNE-Sugar  syrup  boiled, 
orange  juice  added  to  it,  fermented  with  yeast  3  or  4 
days,  bunged  tight;  bottled  after  6  months  with  little 
brandy  added  in  the  bottles. 

ORCHAXET  ROOT— A  coloring  ingredient  to 
be  bought  at  drug  stores,  used  to  make  red  butter  for 
coloring  cardinal  sauce,  etc. 

OREIL.LES  (Fr.)  —  Ears.  OREILLES  BE  VEAU 
AUX  CHAMPIGNONS — Calves'  ears  with  mushrooms. 
OREILLES  D'AGNEAU  FARCiES-Lambs'  ears  stuffed, 
breaded  and  fried.  OREILLES  DE  Pone  A  LA  STE. 
MENEHOULD — Pigs'  ears  breaded  and  baked,  served 
with  remoulade  sauce.  OREILLES  DE  PORC  BRAI- 
SEES — Pigs'  ears  braised  in  stock,  served  on  spinach. 
OREILLES  DE  PORC  A  LA  LYONNAISE — Cut  in  strips 
in  brown  onion  sauce. 

ORGEAT — Almond  syrup  or  milk  of  almonds.  It 
is  made  with  milk  for  orgeat  ice-cream.  "And  now 
a  tip  to  you,  ladies  and  gentlemen,  how  to  make  or- 
geat as  the  Frenchman  likes  it,  and  probably  often 
asks  you  for  it.  Take  2%  Ibs.  of  bitter  almonds,  i 
Ib.  i  oz.  of  sweet  almonds,  20  Ibs.  of  white  sugar,  9 
pts.  of  water,  the  peel  of  3  lemons,  and  :2  drops  of 
essence  of  neroli.  Throw  the  almonds  into  boiling 
water,  leave  them  for  10  minutes,  then  place  them 
in  cold  water  and  remove  their  skins;  then  pestle 
them  up  with  the  sugar,  and,  after  adding  the  9  pts. 
of  water  and  the  lemon  peel,  let  them  boil  a  minute' 
or  two,  and  finally  pass  the  decoction  through  a  sei  ve, 
taking  care  to  press  out  all  the  milk  in  the  almonds. 
Orgeat  is  usually  drunk  with  cold  water  (half-and- 
half),  with  a  dash  of  rum  in  it.  It  makes  a  most 
wholesome  and  refreshing  summer-drink." 

ORIENTAL  COOKERY— TURKISH  DINNER- 
"Silence  and  expedition  are  the  chief  characteristics 
of  a  Turkish  meal.  The  table  preparations  are  few, 
but  the  dishes  are  many;  olives,  caviare,  cheese,  etc., 
are  dotted  about,  and  perhaps  as  many  as  ten  dishes 
are  handed  round  on  covered  brazen  dishes  consist- 
ing of  rice  or  barley,  meat  or  boiled  fish,  cakes  sea- 
soned with  vegetables,  roast  lamb,  beans,  a  species 
of  rissole  wrapped  up  in  vine  leaves,  the  inevitable 
pilaf  and  fruits,  and,  as  wine  is  forbidden,  an  intox- 
icating substitute  is  found  in  liquors  and  brandy. 
Each  person  has  his  glass  of  sherbet  by  him,  and 
his  piece  of  unleavened  bread,  for  the  Turks  love 
half-baked  dough.  It  will  comfort  the  European  to 
see  every  one  wash  his  hands  before  his  meal,  for 
forks  are  unknown,  and  each  is  expected  to  dip  his 
fingers  into  the  savory  morsel  as  it  is  handed  to  him. 
During  the  whole  of  the  feeding  process  scarcely 
four  or  five  words  will  be  uttered.and  at  the  most  vour 
repast  will  last  20  minutes;  but  then  afterward,  with 
the  coffee  and  the  hubble-bubble,  conversation  will 


ORI 

flow  freely.    To  the  Turk  eating  is  a  serious  gastro- 
:  nomic  exercise,  which  will  not  admit  of  a;. 
i  versation  being  entered  into  during  the  process."— 
TURKISH  BREAKFAST — "A  Turkish  breakfast  coin  - 
j  prises  about  thirty  dishes.     Soon  after  the  first  dish 
comes  Iamb,  roasted  on  the  spit,  which  must  never 
be  wanting  at  any  Turkish  banquet     Then  follow 
,  dishes  of  solid  and  liquid,  sour  and  sweet,  in  the 
order  of  which  a  certain  kind  of  recurring  change  is 
observed  to  keep  the  appetite  alive.     The  pilau  of 
boiled  rice  is  always  the  concluding  dish.     The   ex- 
ternals to  such  a  feast  as  this  are  these:    A   g 
.  round  plate  of  metal  with  a  plain  edge,  of  three  feet 
in  diameter,  is  placed  on  a  low  frame,  and  serves  ;;s 
a  table,  at  which  five  or  six  people  can  repose  on 
j  rugs.     The  legs  are  hidden  in  the  extensive  folds 
I  which  encircle  the  body.     The  left  hand  must  re- 
main invisible;  it  would  be  improper  to  expose  it  in 
any  way  while  eating.    The  right  hand  is  permitted 
alone  to  be  active.     There  are  no  plates,  or  knives, 
or  forks.   The  table  is  decked  with  dishes,  deep  and 
shallow,  covered  and  uncovered.    These  are  contin- 
ually being  changed,  so  that  little  can  be  eaten  from 
each.   Some  remain  longer,  as  roast  meat,  cold  milk, 
and  gherkins,  and  are  often  recurred  to.    Before  and 
after  dinner  they  wash  their  hands.     An  attendant 
or  slave  kneels,  with  a  metal  basin  in  hand  and  a 
piece  of  soap  on  a  little  saucer  in  the  other.     Water 
is  poured  by  him  over  the  hands  of  the  washer  from 
a  metal  jug;  over  his  arm  hangs  an  elegantly  em- 
broidered napkin  for  drying  the  hands  upon."    THE 
TURKISH  KEBAB — The  Turk  of  to-day  usually  de- 
clines pork,  but  will  not  scruple  to  use  veal.  He  eats 
beef  verv  rarely;  he  indulges  in  ducks,  lean  fowls, 
j  and  sheep  and  lamb,  the  flesh  of  which  is  cut  in  small 
pieces.    These  pieces  are  strung  upon  long  spits, 
which  are  held  and  turned  for  some  minutes  over  hot 
coals,  where  they  are  slowly  roasted,  retaining  all 
their  juices.  This  is  what  is  termed  kebab,  a  health- 
ful and  nutritious  food  which  all  Europeans  and 
Americans  find  delicious.     The    lists  of  Turkish 
dishes  show  no  less  than  sixteen  ordinary  kebabs. 
(See  Kabob.)    SUT  KEBABI — Pieces  of  the  loin  of 
mutton  or  lamb  about  the   size  of  a  guinea  egg 
sprinkled  with  salt,  pepper,  and  ground  cinnamon, 
allowed  to" absorb  the  seasonings  for  2  hours.     Par- 
boiled in  milk,  taken  out,  ran  upon  skewers,  and 
roasted,   basted  with  milk  and  flour  until  brown. 
Dusted  with  cinnamon;    served  hot.     KIYMADAX 
FIRIN  KEBABI — Baked  mincemeat  kebab,  made  of 
minced  raw  mutton,  and  minced  onions  partly  fried 
in  butter,  with  pistachio  nuts,  currants,  salt,  pepper 
and  cinnamon.     A  caul  fat   is  cut  in  pier 
'  mincemeat  in  small  portions  wrapped  in  the  pieces 
|  and    baked.     TURKISH    SAUSAGES— Raw    mutton 
;  minced,  and  raw  rice  mixed,  with  salt,  pepper,  ci:i- 
i  namon  and  milk.   Stuffed  into  sausage  skins,  boiled 
a  short  time  in  salted  water.     When  cold,  fried  in 
!  butter,  or  breaded  and  fried.    TURKISH  DOI.MADES- 
Beef  minced  with  raw  rice,  onion,  parsley,  pepper, 
salt,  butter;  some  vine  leaves  parboiled,  portions  of 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


387 


OKI 

sausage  meat  inclosed  in  the  leaves,  stewed  slowly 
with  water  and  butter  in  a  covered  saucepan;  served 
with  egg-  and  lemon  sauce.  SOUVALAKIAS — Minced 
beef  balls,  like  German  klSse,  made  of  %  Ib.  each 
minced  beef  and  bread  panada  and  J^  Ib.  suet,  flavored 
with  onion,  made  into  quenelles  very  small,  rolled  in 
flour,  cooked  in  light  wine  sauce  an  hour;  served  with 
mushrooms  and  stuffed  olives.  PILAF — Rice  boiled 
in  broth,  variously  seasoned,  nearly  the  same  as 
Italian  risotto.  May  have  tomato  sauce  and  butter. 
A  traveller  says:  "In  the  villages,  however,  the 
inevitable  dishes  are  pilaf.  and  yaort.  The  former 
dish  is  found  almost  all  over  Mahommedan  Asia. 
With  a  foundation  of  rice  or  wheat  it  receives  a 
variety  of  other  compounds,  from  chopped  mutton 
to  sweet  almonds  and  raisins,  and  sometimes  wild 
herbs.  Yaort  is  a  preparation  of  clabbered  milk, 
prepared  so  that  it  will  keep  for  a  long  time.  BEIG- 
NETS  i>u  HAREM — Rice  dough  made  of  cooked  rice, 
flour,  yeast  and  little  salt,  balls  size  of  pigeon's  eggs 
taken  off  when  it  is  light,  and  fried  same  as  dough- 
nuts. They  are  quite  white.  Dusted  with  sugar 
and  served  with  raspberry  sauce.  TURKISH  SWEETS 
— The  Turks  are  celebrated  for  the  variety  and 
excellence  of  their  pastry  and  sweets.  SOUFFLES  A 
LA  SKILIZI — Vanilla  sponge  cakes  moistened  with 
kirschwasser  syrup,  made  hot  and  served  with  sauce. 
RAHAT  LAKOUM — "  The  ra/tat  lakonm  (coagulated 
delight)  of  the  Turks  is  a  preparation  otpecten  (the 
base  imitation  sold  in  this  country  is  flavored  gela- 
tine.) I  fed  upon  it  once  in  the  kitchen  of  the  Se- 
raglio at  Constantinople.  It  was  specially  prepared 
for  the  Sultanas,  and  presented  to  me  by  his  Excel- 
lency the  Grand  Confectioner  as  a  sample  of  his 
masterpiece.  Although  more  than  forty  years  have 
elapsed  since  that  moment  of  delight,  the  remem- 
brance has  not  yet  faded  from  my  dreams.  The  fla- 
voring essences  of  the  grape,  the  nectarine,  the 
pineapple,  and  I  know  not  what  other  fruits,  were 
there  with  all  their  aromas  unpolluted.  The  sher- 
bet was  similar,  but  liquid.  Well  may  the  Turk 
abstain  from  the  gross  concoction  that  we  call  wine 
when  such  ambrosial  nectar  tikes  its  place. " — RA- 
HAT-IL-HOLKUM— Rahat  Lakoum;  otherwise  fa- 
miliarly known  in  this  country  as  "Turkish  De- 
light." Is  made  of  3  Ibs.  loaf  sugar,  4  qts.  water, 
boiled,  9  oz.  starch  added,  boiled  with  constant 
stirring  until  thick.  Pieces  dropped  in  powdered 
sugar  will  not  moisten  or  absorb  the  sugar  when  it 
has  boiled  enough.  To  be  flavored  with  musk  the 
size  of  a  pea,  dissolved  in  rose  water.  Poured  out 
in  oiled  pan,  cut  in  pieces  when  cold.  (See  Fig' 
Paste  and  Gum  Drops.)  EKMEK  KADAYIFI — Make 
a  syrup  of  i  Ib.  sugar  and  2  pts.  of  water.  Cut  open 
4  or  5  muffins  and  soak  them  in  the  syrup  for  2  or  3 
minutes.  Remove  with  a  slice,  and  place  half  of 
them  in  a  baking-tin;  sprinkle  over  with  pounded 
nlmonds  or  pistachios,  then  a  layer  of  clotted  cream 
Y±  in.  thick,  more  almonds,  and  then  the  remaining 
halves  of  the  muffins.  Now  pour  J£  of  a  pint  of  the 
syrup  over,  place  in  the  oven,  or  on  a  moderate 


ORI 

charcoal  fire,  until  the  syrup  is  nearly  all  absorbed, 
and  serve  either  hot  or  cold.  AAPI  BAKLAW,\ — 
Balaklava  cakes.  Paste  like  nomlles'  paste  rolled 
out  thin  as  paper,  piled  on  each  other  with  almond 
paste  between  some  layers,  butter  poured  over, 
baked  in  deep  pan,  honey  syrup  poured  over,  cut  in 
pieces  to  serve.  ROSE  JAM — Many  tons'  weight  of 
rose  leaves,  gathered  and  packed  while  they  are 
freshly  fallen,  are  converted  into  rose  jam,  one  of  the 
exquisite  conserves  which  under  the  generic  name  of 
dulchatz,  are  so  admirably  confected  in  Turkey, 
Greece,  and  Roumania,  and  constitute  a  leading 
feature  in  the  toothsome  refection  offered  to  the 
casual  visitor  in  every  well-to-do  oriental  house- 
hold. Rose  jam,  considered  as  a  sweetmeat,  is  far 
superior  in  flavor  and  savor  to  Rahat  Lakonm,  and 
to  the  somewhat  cloying  preparations  of  angelica 
for  which  certain  Stamboul  confectioners  are  justly 
famous.  It  is  by  no  means  sickly,  or  even  insipid, 
as  those  delicacies  unquestionably  are,  but  is  char- 
acterized by  an  after  taste  no  less  brisk  and  refresh- 
ing than  that  of  the  black  cherry  dulchatz,  paragon 
of  all  Turkish  sweets.  ARAB  GARTROXOMY — The 
silk-clad  merchants  one  encounters  in  the  bazars  of 
Damascus  and  Bagdad  are  capital  judges  of  a  good 
dinner.  If  western  gourmets  are  ignorant  of  the 
haute  cuisine  of  the  Arabs  it  is  owing  to  the  circum- 
stance that  invitations  to  dinner  are  rarely  given  to 
strangers,  whom  true  believers  regard  as  unclean. 
In  a  vague  way  it  is  understood  that  kebabs  and 
pilau  are  not  reckoned  as  high-class  cookery  among 
the  natives.  Some  few,  perhaps,  have  heard  or 
read  of  the  much  esteemed  Samytah,  a  puree  of 
cream,  dates,  and  starch;  the  Therid,  a  soup  of  olive 
oil,  vinegar,  eggs  and  bread;  the  tasty  Sikbaj,  or 
beef  stew;  and  the  golden  Jttdabah,  sugared  rice 
swimming  in  chicken  fat.  But  the  dainty  dishes  of 
the  Arab  epicure,  the  appetite-enticing  -wast,  the 
delicious  sanbusaj,  the  leafy  qutaif,  and  the  honeyed 
Itizinveli,  are  dainties  of  which  the  outer  infidel 
world  knows  nothing.  SIKBAJ — A  stew  of  sheep's 
heads.  Tr.is  is  esteemed  one  of  the  greatest 
triumphs  of  cookery  and  the  test  of  a  cook's  excel- 
lence. The  heads  are  scraped,  the  ears  left  on  and 
filled  with  flavored  forcemeat;  they  are  then  braised 
and  served  with  a  sauce  of  olive  oil  and  vinegar. 
More  than  one  good  Moslem  owes  his  death  to  a 
surfeit  of  this  dainty.  Another  esteemed  prepara- 
tion is  QARID— A  fish  stew.  The  fish  is  chopped 
and  gently  stewed  in  butter,  balls  of  minced  liver 
and  vegetables  are  thrown  in,  and  the  whole  taken 
to  table  with  a  sauce  made  of  vinegar,  capers,  mus- 
tard, rue,  cumin  and  celery.  Tongues,  livers  and 
roes  of  rare  and  expensive  fish  are  added  to  enhance 
the  flavor  and  cost  of  this  dainty.  WAST — A  species 
of  sandwich  which  is  supposed  to  sharpen  the  ap- 
petite. Slices  of  bread  are  spread  with  white  chicken 
meat,  grape  syrup  is  poured  round  it,  and  the  sur- 
face is  spread  with  almonds,  olives,  cheese,  and 
chopped  eggs.  Wast  comes,  according  to  the  Arab 
:  usages,  immediately  after  such  light  entrees  as 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


OKI 

tardynah  and  sanbusaj.  The  latter  is  a  cross  be- 
tween a  ragout  and  a  patty,  being  one  of  the  choic- 
est delicacies  known  to  eastern  epicures.  Ksahaq, 
a  famous  oracle  of  the  kitchen,  bequeathed  to  his 
countrymen  the  recipe  for  sanbusaj.  It  is  a  timbale 
filled  with  a  paste  of  pounded  cabbage,  meat,  fat, 
onions  and  spices.  TURKISH  SAUSAGES — The  intes- 
tines of  sheep  filled  with  a  composition  of  rice-flour, 
chopped  meat,  and  almonds,  and  formed  into  a  kind 
of  knotted  tripe,  are  also  much  esteemed  by  Arab 
gourmands;  and  it  may  take  a  little  of  the  conceit 
out  of  Scotchmen  who  regard  haggis  as  a  special 
product  of  Caledonia,  to  learn  that  it  is  an  imme- 
morial delicacy  of  the  East.  ARAB  SWEETS— In 
the  shape  of  sweets  (of  which,  as  everyone  knows, 
all  Orientals  are  inordinately  fond),  there  are  two 
confections  which  grace  every  gourmand's  dinner 
table.  They  are  the  luzinyeh,  or  almond  cakes, 
"distilling  tears  of  sugar  and  butter,"  and  gulaif, 
or  pancakes.  These  are  served,  as  in  the  West,  to- 
wards the  end  of  the  dinner,  after  a  course  of  "ap- 
petizers." AKAB  HORS  D'CEuvREs — Such  as  sharp 
cheese,  spiced  vinegar,  red  eggs  and  olives,  pickled 
fish  and  asparagus  in  oil.  LUZIXYEH — Same  as  the 
Balaklava  cakes  of  the  Turks  and  Greeks.  The 
hiznyeh  consists  of  thin  shells  of  pastry  — the  thin- 
ness of  the  dough  being  the  point  upon  which  epi- 
cures insist — containing  a  rich  stuffing  of  almonds 
and  sweet  flavoring.  They  are  served  swimming 
in  a  sauce  of  melted  butter  and  honey.  For  a  thou- 
sand years  they  have  been  deemed  one  of  the  great- 
est delicacies  of  the  kitchen.  Ahmed  Ibn  Yahye 
says  of  them: 

"Appetite  cannot  so  close  its  portals 
But  the  approach  of  this  dish  unlocks  them." 

For  all  that,  gutaif  (the  ekmek  kataifol  the  Turks) 
runs  the  luzinyeh  very  close.  The  qutaif,  or  pan- 
cakes, are  thin  and  leafy,  fried  in  almond  oil;  and 
are  served  up  humid  with  "the  oil  ozingfrom  them" 
and  a  rich  syrup  "in  which  they  sink  and  swim," 
and  covered  with  rose-water.  Cold  water  is  not 
greatly  in  request  among  eastern  lovers  of  good 
cheer.  The  beverage  of  the  Arab  epicure  is  dushab, 
a  mixture  of  nebidh  (date-water)  and  dibs  (wine  juice 
reduced  to  a  very  thick  and  luscious  syrup).  From 
time  immemorial  this  has  been  the  favorite  drink  of 
the  Bagdad  gourmands.  PERSIAN  FARE— ''One  of 
the  most  interesting  Oriental  meals  I  remember 
taking  was  with  AH  Khan,  the  Governor  of  Khoi, 
a  city  of  western  Persia.  The  dinner  was  served 
on  a  cloth  spread  on  the  floor.  The  Governor  and 
his  councellors,  grave  and  dignified  old  Persians  in 
flowing  silk  gowns  and  henna- stained  beards, 
squatted  cross-legged  around  the  edge  of  the  cloth. 
Heaping  dishes  of  rice  pilaf,  some  dyed  crimson 
and  some  yellow,  occupied  the  center,  heaps  of  flat, 
thin  sheets  of  bread,  boiled  mutton,  bayaar  kabobs, 
pastry  of  sweetened  rice-flour,  melons,  fruit  and 
bowls  of  iced  sherbet.  Each  Persian  had  one  of 
tha  thin  sheets  of  bread  spread  out  before  him  for  a 
plate;  bending  over  these  they  scooped  up  small 


ORX 

handfuls  oipilafirom  the  nearest  dish,  and,  rolling 
it  into  sizable  balls,  tossed  them  dexterously  into 
their  mouths.  An  act  of  courtesy  would  be  to  ferret 
out  some  dainty  tit-bit  of  mutton  from  the  dish  and 
place  it  on  one's  next  neighbor's  sheet  of  bread. 
No  knife,  nor  fork,  nor  spoon,  n6r  implement  of 
any  kind,  was  on  the  table  beside  the  dishes  save  a 
porcelain  ladle  to  fill  glasses  with  sherbet  from  the 
bowl.  The  thin,  pliable  sheets  of  bread  were  used 
to  wipe  the  finger-tips  after  handling  the  greasy 
mutton,  and  occasionally  a  small  piece  would  be 
torn  off  and  eaten."  How  THE  ARABS  CARVE — 
The  Arabs  know  how  to  carve  a  fowl  without  hav- 
ing the  bird  migrate  all  over  the  table  and  finally 
land  in  the  lap  of  one  of  the  diners.  Five  Arabs 
seat  themselves  around  a  large  bowl  of  rice  sur- 
mounted by  a  fowl.  Two  seize  the  •wings  with 
their  fingers  and  two  the  legs,  and  simultaneously 
tearing  these  off  leave  the  carcass  to  the  fifth.  It  is 
probable  that  they  draw  lots  for  the  honor  of  being 
the  fifth.  It  must  be  a  bad  omen  to  have  six  men  at 
the  table  when  a  fowl  is  carved  in  this  fashion — 
that  is,  bad  for  the  sixth  man  if  he  is  fond  of  fowl. 

ORMERS— Specialty.  Shell-fish  found  on  the 
Florida  as  well  as  the  French  coasts.  "Wot  vou  of 
ormers,  a  shell-fish,  known  popularly  as  'Venus' 
ears,'  from  the  shape  and  mother-of-pearl  beauty  of 
them?  They  are  only  to  be  found'at  very  low  tides, 
and  are  out  of  season  from  June  to  September. 
Choose  those  of  medium  size,  lay  them  in  salt  and 
water,  beat  them  well,  add  season  according  to  taste. 
Stew  for  2  hours  in  Be'chamel  sauce — if  preferred  in 
brown  sauce,  dip  first  in  flour;  if  fried,  dip  in  flour. 
They  are  extremely  good  curried,  but  they  always 
require  a  long  time  to  cook.  The  flavor  resembles 
something  dainty,  between  very  delicate  veal  and 
Ai  03'sters.  I  will  stake  my  reputation  as  a. gourmet 
on  this  dish." 

ORNAMENTED  CAKE— 


See  Icing  Cakes,  Icing  Tubes,  Gum  Paste. 

ORONGE— A  sort  of  large,  flat,  orange  colored 
and  delicious  mushroom  which  grows  on  the  bark 
of  trees,  very  abundant  in  southern  Europe.  Is  put 
up  in  cans  in  oil,  like  cepes.  ORONGES  A  I.A  BORDE- 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


389 


ORT 

LAISE — Same  way  as  cefef,  which  see.  URBAIN  Du- 
BOIS'  FIRST  TASTE — "As  I  looked  around  I  observed 
a  large  open  basket  full  of  mushrooms  of  a  peculiar 
kind  quite  unknown  to  me.     I  was  taking  stock  of 
the  contents  of  his  basket,  when  the  boy,  noticing 
my  curiosity,  asked  me  to  taste  his  merchandise. 
'What  do  you  call  this?'  I  asked.     'Cocons,'  an- 
swered the  boy.     I  was  not  much  the  wiser,  so  I  put  ! 
further  questions  to  the  lad,  who  explained  to  me  I 
that  these  'cocons'  were  young  unopened  oronges.  j 
'Ho\v  do  you  eat  them  in  this  country?'  said  I.    'Oh,  i 
it  is  very  simple.'  Then  taking  one  of  the  cocons  he 
wiped  it  well  with  a  piece  of  paper,  broke  it  in  two,  j 
gave  a  hearty  bite  to  one  of  the  pieces,  and  handed  j 
me  the  other  half,  saying:    'Taste  it  sir;  do  as  I  do."  I 
•  Without  hesitation  I  followed  his  example.     'You 
are  right,'  said  I  to  the  young-  man,   'it  is  more  than 
good,   it  is  excellent.'     And  I  bought  the  whole  of 
the  contents  of  his  basket."    (See  Salads,  Savoie.) 

ORTOLAN  —  A  famous  luxury  of  ancient  and 
modern  epicures,  concerning  which  there  are  more 
stories  of  reckless  expenditure  and  extravagance 
told  than  of  any  other  rare  dainty  whatever  not  ex- 
cepting even  the  truffle.  The  ortolan  is  a  small  bird 
comparable  to  the  rice  bird  of  America;  its  home  is 
Italy,  France  and  southern  Europe  generally.  The 
scarcity  of  the  bird  as  compared  with  the  demand 
gives  it  prominence  as  a  most  expensive  morsel. — 
ORTOLANS  AMONG  THE  ROMANS  —  Soyer  says: 
"Florence  and  Bologna  sent  to  Rome  cases  of  orto- 
lans, the  enormous  price  of  which  irritated  instead 
of  discouraging  gluttony.  They  arrived  in  the  me- 
tropolis of  the  world,  picked  and  separated  one  from 
the  other  by  layers  of  flour  to  prevent  decomposition. 
Each  of  these  little  birds  furnish  only  a  mouthful; 
but  this  incomparable  mouthful  eclipsed  everything 
else,  and  produced  a  sort  of  epicurean  ecstasy  which 
may  be  called  the  transcendantalism  of  gastron- 
omy." ORTOLANS  AND  QCAILS — "At  this  time  of 
vear  the  caterer  must  perforce  meet  the  appetite  of 
his  epicurean  customers  for  'winged  game'  by  plac- 
ing on  menu  ortolans  and  quails.  The  former  delici- 
ous little  birds  —  'lumps  of  delight,'  as  some  en- 
thusiastic gourmet  has  described  them  — are  too 
expensive  for  ordinary  diners,  and  the  quail  is  the 
only  really  popular  game  substitute."  How  TO 
KILL  AN  ORTOLAN — "Ortolans  should  not  be  killed 
with  violence,  like  other  birds,  as  this  might  crush 
and  bruise  the  delicate  flesh — to  avoid  which  the  usual 
mode  is  to  plunge  the  head  of  the  ortolan  into  a  glass 
of  brandy."  ORTOLANS  BROILED  IN  CASES — "Hav- 
ing picked  the  bird  of  its  feathers,  singe  it,  cut  off 
the  beak  and  ends  of  the  feet,  but  do  not  draw  it; 
put  it  into  a  paper  case  soaked  in  olive-oil,  and  broil 
it  over  a  slow  fire — charcoal  or  slack  cinders — and  in 
a  few  minutes  the  ortolan  will  swim  in  its  own  fat 
and  be  cooked.  Some  epicures  wrap  each  bird  in  a 
vine  leaf."  ORTOLANS  A  LA  ROYALE — "One  of  the 
dishes  for  the  supper-table,  upon  the  occasion  of  a 
grand  ball  given  by  Sir  Julian  Goldsmid  on  the  i^th 
of  June  last.  Everything  was  carried  out  upon  the 


OXF 

most  magnificent  scale;  the  table  decorations  were 
elaborate  and  beautiful,  and  the  service  was  all  in 
gold!"  —  "Bone  the  ortolans;  fill  them  with  a  puree 
offoie gras  incorporated  with  a  little  chicken  force- 
meat. Next  roll  each  bird  in  a  leaf  of  buttered  paper, 
and  poach  them  in  an  oven.  When  cold,  the  paper 
should  be  removed,  each  ortolan  carefully  trimmed, 
and  the  whole  covered  neatly  with  a  brown  chaud- 
froid  sauce,  flavored  with  an  extract  prepared  from 
bones  of  the  birds."  ORTOLANS  ROASTED — The 
birds  trussed  without  drawing  them.  First  a  vine- 
leaf  and  then  a  slice  of  bacon  laid  over  the  breast  of 
each  and  tied  on  with  a  string.  Roasted  at  quick 
fire  in  about  25  minutes ;  served  on  toast  with  their 
own  gravy,  and  orange  sauce  aside.  ORTOLANS  IN 
TRUFFLES— Large  truffles  with  part  of  the  inside  re- 
moved and  an  ortolan  placed  inside;  in  a  saucepan 
with  slices  of  bacon,  and  wine,  etc. ;  served  in  the 
truffles  on  toast,  with  sauce  made  of  the  essence  in 
the  saucepan.  ORTOLANS  A  I.A  PERIGOURDIN'E — 
Name  of  the  dish  of  ortolans  in  truffles. 

OSEILLE  (Fr.)— Sorrel.  A  green  herb  used  as 
greens  and  in  soup.  PUREE  D'OSEILLE — Sorrel 
soup. 

OSWEGO  '  PUDDING  — Corn-starch  pudding 
meringued  and  baked.  Made  of  I  qt.  milk,  4  oz. 
starch,  3  oz.  sugar,  2  oz.  butter,  6  yolks;  cooked  xip 
like  thick  boiled  custard;  jelly  spread  over  top  in 
baking  pan;  whipped  whites  with  sugar  on  top. 

OWL — "  M.  le  Blanc  was  once  chief  cook  to  a 
Parisian  nobleman.  For  days  before  Christmas  he 
treated  his  guests  to  mouth-watering  descriptions  of 
'  ze  magnifique  dinnair  on  ze  Chrisemas  day  in  La 
Belle  France.'  A  few  days  before  Christmas  he  be- 
came very  mysterious,  and  intimated  that  those  for- 
tunate mortals  who  sat  at  his  board  should  also  have 
a  '  magnifique  dinnair.'  Accordingly  anticipations 
ran  high.  The  day  at  last  arrived.  His  promises 
were  fulfilled.  The  table  was  spread  with  an  em- 
barrassment of  good  things.  One  dish  was  a  special 
favorite,  to  the  undisguised  delight  of  the  cuisinier. 
It  seemed  a  species  of  game,  was  delicately  flavored, 
but  no  one  knew  exactly  what  it  was.  '  Oh,  mon- 
sieur, do  tell  us  what  this  delicious  dish  is,'  said  a 
young  and  pretty  guest,  when  the  dish  was  demol- 
ished. '  Zat,  madam,  zat  eis  ze  grand  triumph  of  ze 
art.  Only  ze  Frenchmen  mek  ze  delicious  deesh — zet 
ees  ze  vat  you  call  ze  owl — ze  pet  owl.'  'Owl!'  ex- 
claimed a  chorus  of  voices,  and  a  dozen  wry  faces 
were  made.  'Oh,  monsieur,  how  could  you  have 
the  heart  to  kill  the  poor  thing?'  chirped  the  fair  in- 
quirer. 'It  ees  you  zat  mek  ze  cruel  accusations, 
madam.  I  no  keel  him — he  die.'  " 

OX-CHEEK— The  meat  of  an  ox-head.  It  is 
cooked  in  various  ways,  the  same  as  beef,  and  in 
soups. 

OXFORD  SAUSAGES— Specialty;  made  as  fol- 
lows: Take  i%  Ibs.  of  pig-meat  cut  without  any 
skin,  i^  Ib.  of  veal,  and  ij^  Ibs.  beef -suet;  mince 
these  meats  separately,  very  finely;  then  mix  them 


890 


THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


OXG 

with  a  dessertspoonful  of  dried,  powdered,  and  sifted 
sage;  pepper  and  salt  to  taste;  and  the  well-beaten 
yolks  and  whites  of  5  eggs.  The  whole  should  be 
well  beaten  together,  as  much  depends  upon  the 
mixing.  Made  into  flattened  balls  and  fried. 

OX -GA  1,1-— Used  for  cleaning  carpets.  Can  be 
obtained  of  the  butchers. 

OX-HEART — Steeped  in  acidulated  water  it  is 
afterwards  cooked  in  slices  in  various  ways,  or 
boiled  and  then  stuffed  with  goose  stuffing  and 
naked. 

OX-PALATES — Cooked  in  many  ways  the  same 
:.s  sweetbreads.  They  are  fii  st  steeped  and  washed, 
then  scalded  or  parboiled,  and  the  white  horny  skin 
peeled  off;  after  boiled  for  2  or  3  hours  until  tender. 
OX-PALATE  CROQUETTES— Palates  cooked  tender, 
cut  up  extremely  sir.all,  mixed  in  thick  sauce  with 
the  usual  croquette  seasonings,  shaped  when  cold,  j 
breaded  and  fried.  OX-PALATES  A  LA  HORLY— Cut 
to  shape,  run  on  skewers,  breaded,  fried;  served 
with  sauce  and  croutons.  PALAIS  DE  BCKUP  A  LA 
ROBERT — Palates  cut  in  pieces  served  with  Robert 
sauce.  PALAIS  DE  BCEUF  A  LA  RAVIGOTE  —  Ox- 
palates  cooked,  cut  in  pieces,  coated  with  white 
sauce,  breaded,  fried;  served  with  Ravigote  sauce. 
PALAIS  DE  BCEUF  A  LA  VIVANDIERE— Same  prepar- 
ation as  the  preceding ;  served  in  a  brown  sauce  with 
onions,  butter,  port  wine,  parsley.  (Set  Soups.) 

OX-TAILS — Divided  in  short  pieces,  steeped  in 
cold  water,  they  are  then  stewed  for  several  hours  to 
dissolve  the  mucilaginous  substance  that  surrounds 
the  bone,  and  dressed  in  various  \vavs,  but  princi- 
pally in  soup.  HARICOT  OF  OX-TAILS— Pieces  first 
browned  in  a  frying  pan  with  fat  and  onions,  then 
stewed  in  same  pan  with  water  for  3 hours,  assorted 
vegetables  added,  seasoned,  thickened;  served  with 
the  vegetables  and  potatoes.  Ox -TAIL  SOUP  THICK- 
Good  beef  stock,  a  haricot  stew  like  the  preceding 
added  to  it,  the  pieces  of  ox-tail  and  vegetables 
served  in  the  plates.  OX-TAIL  SOUP  CLEAR — Clear 
consomme,  neat  pieces  of  ox-tail  free  from  bone,  and 
different-colored  vegetables  in  lozenge  shapes  served 
in  the  plates  with  it.  OX-TAIL  SOUP  WITH  BARLEY- 
And  with  macaroni,  etc.,  see  Soups. 

OYSTER— OYSTER  QUOTATIONS  FOR  MENUS— 
"  The  man  had  sure  a  palate  covered  o'er 
With  brass  or  steel,  that  on  the  rocky  shore 
First  broke  the  oozy  oyster's  pearly  coat, 
And  risked  the  living  morsel  down  his  throat." 
"An  oyster,  sir,  is  one  of  the  elements  of  social  ex- 
istence, a  delicacy  of  no  age,  sex,  or  condition,  but 
patent  to  the  universal  family  of  man.     Good  in  a 
scallop,  better  in  a  stew,  best  of  all  in  the  shell; 
good  in  pickle,  in  curry,  in  sauce;  good  at  luncheon, 
before  dinner,  at  supper;  good  to  entertain  a  friend; 
good  to  eat  by  yourself;  good  when  you  are  hungry; 
good,  moreover,  when  you  are  not." — "The  Greeks, 
who  were  the  most  zesthetical  of  feeders,  had  them 
opened  at  table,  and  ate  them  'out  of  hand.'    They 
knew  as  well  as  we  do  that  to  lay  an  oyster  on  a  dish, 


OYS 

no  matter  for  how  short  a  time,  diminished  its  piq- 
uancy. Always  insist  on  one  point— that  the  dainty 
morsel  is  opened  on  the  deeh  shell,  so  as  to  preserve 
every  drop  of  the  liquor.  This  done,  the  American 
asks  only  crackers,  butter,  a  slice  of  lemon,  and  the 
pepper  cruet.  The  Englishman  would  put  aside  the 
lemon  and  crackers,  and  ask  for  brown  bread  and  a 
few  blades  of  crisp  white  celery.  As  regards  the 
size  of  oysters,  I  take  it  that  those  are  best  which 
need  no  cutting;  two  bites  to  an  oyster  is  as  inad- 
missible as  two  bites  to  a  cherry."- — "An  oyster 
dinner  was  given  in  Baltimore  the  other  night,  and 
only  oysters  were  served  in  eight  courses,  beginning 
with  raw  and  ending  with  a  pudding  of  oysters,  crabs 
and  chopped  celery  that  is  said  to  have  been  very 
nice."  OYSTERS  OUT  OF  SEASON — "The  reason  why 
oysters  are  procurable  in  London  all  the  year  round 
is,  that  certain  varieties,  when  transferred  from  their 
original  native  homes  to  artificial  beds,  are  so  dis- 
turbed that  they  cease  to  breed,  and  are  consequently 
fit  for  consumption  at  any  time."  FORCING  OYS- 
TERS— "One  of  its  most  remarkable  features  appears 
to  be  the  peculiar  process  adopted  for  '  forcing.' 
This  consists  in  placing  the  young  oysters  into  so- 
called  'ambulances,'  that  is,  boxes  with  \vooden 
sides  and  tops  and  bottoms  covered  with  galvanized 
wire,  the  boxes  being  fixed  about  a  quarter  of  a  yard 
above  the  ground.  The  oysters  in  these  boxes  grow, 
we  are  told,  about  twice  as  rapidly  as  others  which 
are  merely  placed  in  the  '  beds.'  "  OYSTERS  AS 
BRAIN  FOOD — "In  some  of  the  lower  counties,  down 
the  Chesapeake  Bay,  oysters  pass  as  current  money, 
and  in  one  town  which  boasts  of  a  weekly  newspaper 
a  large  percentage  of  its  readers  pay  their  subscrip- 
tions to  it  in  oysters;  thus  the  editor  receives  from 
150  to  200  bushels  of  oysters  yearly,  which  he  is 
forced  to  consume  in  his  own  family ;  and,  as  oys- 
ters are  declared  by  the  faculty  to  be  most  efficaci- 
ous in  producing  and  increasing  brain  power,  it  is  to 
be  hoped  that  the  subscribers  to  that  journal  get 
good  value  for  their  oysters."  PICKLED  OYSTERS — 
"Pickled  oysters,  which  years  ago  were  a  standard 
dish  at  receptions  and  parties,  and  then  were  neg- 
lected, have  come  into  gastronomic  fashion  again." 
BROILED  IN  THE  SHELL — "  If  oysters  are  to  be 
cooked,  a  homely  excellent  way  is  to  lay  the  shells 
on  the  gridiron,  and  as  soon  as  they  open  put  into 
each  a  bit  of  butter  and  a  dust  of  cayenne.  The 
French  open  the  shells  first,  put  over  the  oyster  in 
the  deep  shell  a  little  mailre  d' hotel  sauce,  then  lay 
it  on  the  gridiron,  and  serve  the  moment  the  liquor 
boils.  Americans  are  as  original  in  oyster  stews  as 
in  everything  else.  Almost  every  family  has  its  own 
recipe,  to  which  it  adheres  with  an  unshakable  loy- 
alty." FRYING  IN  OIL — Oysters  fried  in  oil  were  in- 
troduced by  the  late  noted  Philadelphia  restaurateur 
Minico  Finelli,  an  Italian  by  birth.  People  who  vis- 
ited Philadelphia  always  made  it  a  point  to  go  to  his 
restaurant  to  enjoy  this  specialty.  They  were  deli- 
cious and  delicate,  beautifully  brown,  and  without  a 
suspicion  of  grease.  PHILADELPHIA  BROILED  OYS- 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


391 


OYS 
TERS — Hot  oyster  liquor  prepared  fivst  by  boiling, 


OYS 

with  oysters  in  the  shell,  and  immerse  in  a  vessel  of 


skimming,  adding-  butter,  salt,  cayenne.  Large  oys-  ',  boiling  water  which  is  deep  enough  to  completely 
ters  laid  side  by  side  in  a  greased  .double-wire  broiler,  cover  the  basket  of  oysters.  They  are  done  almost 
broiled  on  both  sides  over  very  hot  fire,  then  thrown  j  immediately,  and  must  be  opened  into  a  hot  dish  con- 
into  the  oyster  liquor.  Served  with  toast  aside. —  '  taining  melted  butter,  pepper,  and  salt.  OYSTER 
PHILADELPHIA  PANNED  OYSTERS— Oysters  washed  SAUSAGES— Take  %  Ib.  lean  mutton,  %  Ib.  beef  suet, 
in  cold  water  and  drained;  thrown  dry  into  a  hot  ;  y2  Ib.  oysters  scalded  and  with  their  beards  taken  off. 
frying  pan  and  shaken  about  till  they  boil;  butter,  .  Chop  all  up  together,  add  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  sea- 
salt,  and  pepper  added.  Served  in  hot  dish. —  I  son  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  make  up  in  the  form 
PI.AIX  BROILED  OYSTERS  ON  TOAST  —  Take  the  of  sausages,  frying  lightly  in  the  usual  way.  O\s- 
lurgest  oysters  obtainable;  brush  the  wire  oyster-  I  TER  CROQUETTES — Oysters  scalded  and  cut,  mixed 
broiler  with  softened  butter,  lay  in  the  oysters  and  ;  with  soaked  crackers,  chopped  veal,  batter,  eggs, 
broil  over  a  hot  fire  2  or  3  minutes,  basting  once  on  onion  juice;  shaped  like  sausages,  breaded,  fried, 
each  side  with  the  butter  brush.  Dish  side  by  side  OYSTER  POTATO  BALLS — Potato-croquette  prepara- 
on  one  long  slice  of  buttered  toast  in  a  dish.  Gar-  I  tion  with  yolks  in  it,  and  chopped  oysters  added; 
nish  with  lemon  and  parsley.  SCALLOPED  OYSTERS  ]  balled,  egged,  breaded,  fried.  OYSTER  KROMES- 
"At  a  prominent  restaurant  the  other  day  we  asked  j  KIES— Oysters  cut  up  in  thick  sauce  made  of  their 
for  some  scalloped  oysters.  Fancy  our  disappoint-  \  liquor,  butter  and  flour,  parsley  and  lemon  juice; 
ment  to  have  served  to  us  a  sort  of  fricassee  of  oys-  !  when  cold  and  firm  enough  to  handle,  rolled  to  shape 
ters.  To  be  sure,  it  was  served  in  a  beautiful  silver  ;  of  bottle  corks,  each  one  rolled  up  in  thin  shaving  of 


dish  like  a  scallop  shell,  and  it  wasn't  a  bad  kind  of 
a  dish,  but  it  wasn't  old-fashioned  scalloped  oys- 
ters, so  easily  made  and  so  toothsome  to  the  palate. 
If  they  had  made  them  after  this  rule  I  know  they 
would  have  been  good:  Roll  fine  z  Ib.  of  soda 
crackers;  put  a  thin  layer  of  this  in  the  bottom  of  a 


boiled  fat  bacon,  dipped  in  batter,  fried.  ROASTED 
OYSTERS — In  the  shells;  placed  amongst  hot  coals, 
or  in  a  very  hot  oven;  served  in  the  deep  shell  with  , 
spoonful  of  butter  poured  over,  and  toast  aside. 
FRIED  OYSTERS — Dipped  in  cracker  dust,  then  in 
egg,  then  in  cracker  dust  again,  dropped  a  few  at  a 


baking-dish;  wet  the  cracker  with  the  liquor  of  the  j  time  in  hot  lard,  fried  4  or  5  minutes.   STEWED  OYS- 
oyster.     If  you  are  not  using  shell  oysters,  wash  j  TERS — Oysters  and  their  liquor  boiled  one  minute; 


the  oysters  first  and  let  them  stand  in  a  pint  of  clear, 
fresh  water  for  half  an  hour,  then  use  this  and  milk 
for  the  wetting.  In  the  layer  of  crumbs  place  a 
layer  of  oysters,  well  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  small  bits  of  butter.  On  this  another  layer  of 
bread-crumbs,  wet  again  with  the  milk  and  liquor. 
Then  again  a  layer  of  oysters,  seasoned  as  before. 
Repeat  this  until  the  oysters  are  all  used.  A  layer 
of  crumbs  should  be  the  last  as  w  ell  as  the  first,  and 
should  be  thickly  sprinkled  with  bits  of  butter.  Just 
before  putting  in  the  oven  pour  over  nearly  a  cup 
of  milk.  Bake  to  a  light,  crisp  brown,  and  serve 


boiling  cream  in  another  saucepan  added  with  salt, 
pepper  and  butter  to  the  oysters.  FANCY  STEW — 
The  above  with  a  square  of  toast  in  a  bowl,  oysters 
on  the  toast  which  floats  in  the  cream.  OYSTERS  A 
LA  TARTARE — Oysters  scalded  and  cold  served  with 
tartar  sauce.  HUITRES  A  LA  VILLEROI — Large  oys- 
ters, each  coated  with  Villeroi  sauce,  bread-crumbed 
and  fried.  Huif  RES  EN  PAPiLLOTES-Oysters  rolled 
in  oval-shaped  pieces  of  a  paste  made  of  mashed  po- 
tatoes, flour  and  butter,  and  baked.  HUITRES  A  LA 
DIABLE — Broiled  oysters  with  butter,  lemon  juice, 
and  cayenne.  HUITRES  AU  PARMESAN — Oysters  in 


instantly."      DEVILLED    OYSTERS  —  See    Devilled,     pan  with  little  wine,  chopped  parsley,  bread-crumbs, 


HUITRES  FARCIES  DANS  LEUR  COQUILLES — Speci- 
alty mentioned  as  forming  part  of  the  Le  Conseil 
"judiciaire  dejeuner .'  Put  a  dozen  fat  oysters  into  a 
saucepan.  \Vhen  the  liquor  is  about  to  boil,  place 
them  on  a  strainer  and  strain  off  watert  Take  this 
water  and  boil  it  with  bread-crumbs  and  a  glass  of 


Parmesan  cheese  and  bits  of  butter  on  top;  browned. 
ANDOUILLETTES  AUX  HUITRES— Oyster  sausages. 
CROUTES  AUX  HUITRES — Oysters  pounded  with 
cream  and  spread  on  small  pieces  of  toast.  RIS- 
SOLES AUX  HUITRES — Same  preparation  as  for  cro- 
quettes or  kromeskies,  rolled  up  in  thin  puff-paste 


cream  until  the  bread  is  thoroughly  dried  up;  then  !  and  fried.  BOUCHEES  AUX  HUIIRES — Small  oyster- 
place  it  in  a  mortar  with  butter,  parsley,  minced  I  patties.  PETITS  P\INS  AUX  HUITRES — Small  oyster- 
shallots,  pepper,  and  the  yolks  of  4  eggs.  Work  all  i  loaves;  rolls  fried  outside,  inside  hollowed  and  filled 
these  ingredients  well  together  with  a  pestle.  Put  with  stewed  oysters.  FRIED  OYSTERS  A  LA  FOR- 
this  stuffing  into  the  oyster-shells,  with  an  oyster  in  j  TRESS  MONROE — Drained,  dusted  with  red  pepper, 
the  middle  of  each,  and  cover  each  oyster  over  with  j  rolled  in  cracker  dust,  dipped  in  egg  mixed  with 
the  same  farce.  Cover  same  with  bread-crumbs  and  '  whipped  cream,  then  in  fine  white  bread-crumbs; 
bake  in  oven,  serving  very  hot."  CALIFORNIA  PEP-  i  fried.  Salted,  served  with  lemon  and  parsley. — 
PER  ROAST — Specialty.  Oysters  in  baking  plate  j  FRICASSEED  OYSTERS— Oysters  boiled  2  minutes, 
dredged  with  Mexican  ground  sweet  pepper,  salt  and  liquor  strained,  thickened  with  flour  and  butter  and 
nutter;  baked  in  top  of  very  hot  oven.  Spanish  sauce  yolks;  oysters  have  sauce  poured  over  them.  BAKED 
made  of  oyster-liquor,  chopped  chillies  and  tomatoes  OYSTERS  A  LA  DUXELLES— Fricasseed  oysters  with 
ready  in  a  hot  dish,  oysters  slipped  into  it  right  side  '  mushrooms  added,  with  cracker  dust  on  top,  browned. 
u;>.  STEAMED  OYSTERS — Get  a  wire  basket,  fill  it  in  the  oven.  OYSTERS  A  LA  MILANAISE — Cooked 


392 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


OYS 

macaroni  with  oysters  in  alternate  layers,  yellow 
sauce  poured  in,  cracker  dust  on  top;  browned  in 
the  oven.  OYSTER  CATSUP — Pounded  oysters  with 
their  liquor,  salt,  spices;  heated  to  a  boil,  little  plain 
proof  spirit  added;  bottled.  OYSTER  STUFFING — 
Oysters  mixed  with  bread  and  crackers  with  butter, 
etc.,  to  stuff  fowls  with.  OYSTER  SAUCE  —  See 
Sauces.  OYSTER  SOUP— See  Soitps.  CURRIED  OYS- 
TERS— Are  put  up  in  cans,  same  as  the  familiar 
canned  plain  oysters.  OYSTERS,  ENGLISH  NATIVE — 


The  cut  shows  the  shape  of  this  oyster  which  the 
English  claim  is  the  best  for  eating  from  the  shell. 
The  difference  in  form  of  shell  from  the  American 
oyster  can  be  seen  by  reference  to  the  cut  of  "  Blue 
Point,"  on  page  254. 

OYSTER-  PL ANT-Sa/.?//V,  Scorzonera.  A  white 
root  with  the  taste  of  oysters.  Grows  to  about  the 
thickness  of  a  finger.  Is  best  after  frost  in  the  spring 
of  the  year.  STEWED  OYSTER-PLANT  —  Scraped, 
boiled  in  water  containing  a  little  vinegar,  salt,  and 
flour  to  slightly  whiten  it;  when  tender,  cut  in  short 
pieces  in  white  sauce.  FRIED  OYSTER- PLANT— 
Boiled,  cut  in  lengths,  dipped  in  batter,  fried  like 
fritters.  OYSTER -PL  ANT  FRITTERS — Boiled  tender, 
mashed,  stirred  up  with  egg,  little  flour,  butter,  salt, 
pepper;  spoonfuls  dropped  in  hot  lard.  SALSIKIS  A 
LA  CREME — Boiled,  cut  in  pieces  in  cream  sauce. 
SALSIFIS  A  LA  MOELLE — Oyster-plant  boiled,  cut  up 
and  stewed  in  brown  sauce;  served  on  toast  spread 
with  hot  beef-marrow.  SALSIFIS  A  LA  POULETTE — 
In  yellow  sauce  thickened  with  yolks,  and  mush- 
rooms added.  BEIGNETS  DE  SALSIFIS — Fritters  of 
oyster-plant. 

P. 

FAILLES  AU  PARMESAN  — Cheese  straws. 
Although  called  straws  the  paste  is  better  looking 
and  better  to  bake  if  cut  with  a  paste  cutter  into 
strips  }^-inch  wide.  Equal  quantities  of  butter, 
cheese  and  flour  are  pounded  together  to  make  it, 
but  one  or  two  yolks  and  a  sprinkling  of  water  im- 
proves it. 

PAIN  (Fr.)— Bread.  PETITS  PAiNS-Small  loaves, 
rolls.  PAINS  DE  LA  MECQUE — Mecca  loaves,  cream 
puffs.  PAIN  DE  FOIE  DE  VEAU— Mould  or  loaf  of  liver 


PAN 

paste.  PAIN  DE  PERDKEAUX — Mould  or  loaf  of 
puree  of  partridge.  PAIN  D'ABRICOTS — A  mould  of 
apricot  cheese.  PAIN  DE  POMME  A  LA  RUSSE — A 
mould  of  apple  marmalade  with  whipped  cream  in 
the  center  and  currant  jelly  round.  PAIN  is  the 
equivalent  of  English  cheese  in  head-cheese,  liver  - 
cheese,  etc.  "  Very  excellent  pains  or  cremes  can 
be  made  otpure's  of  delicate  meats,  fish  and  vege- 
tables— creme  de  fiomarj,  cretne  de  crerettes,  cretne 
<Partichauts,J>ain  degibier,  etc.  If  required  to  be 


HOLLOW  BORDER   MOULD, 

for  Pains  de  Volaille  Aspics,  Jelly  Salads,  etc. 

served  hot,  the  contents  of  the  mould  must  be 
steamed  like  a  pudding,  the  cream  being  stirred  into 
the  custard  in  the  first  instance."  "  Little  cakes 
made  out  of  rye-flour  and  abundant  currants  are 
very  popular  in  Paris.  These  pains  de  seigle,  as 
they  are  called,  are  sold  by  all  the  bakers."  PETITS 
PAINS  A  LA  FIANCEE — Rich  nut  cakes  made  of  10 
oz.  hazel  nuts  pounded  with  cream,  10  oz.  sugar,  2 
oz.  butter,  18  yolks,  8  oz.  rice  flour.  Baked  in  sheets 
on  paper,  cut  in  diamonds  glazed  and  iced. 

PALAIS  DE  BCEUF  (Fr.)— Ox-palate. 

PANADA — Bread  soaked  in  milk  or  water  and 
squeezed  dry.  It  is  used  in  making  stuffing,  quen- 
elles, forcemeats,  puddings. 

PANCAKE — The  pancake  is  the  oldest  form  of 
bread  and  there  are  remains  of  ancient  ceremonies 
and  popular  customs  in  regard  to  it  still  observed  in 
some  places  of  which  the  original  significance  is 
now  unknown.  In  Catholic  communities  and  coun- 
tries which  formerly  were  Catholic  the  custom  is 
observed  of  eating  pancakes  on  Shrove  Tuesday, 
which  is  at  the  beginning  of  Lent.  It  is  a  pancake 
feast  in  which  everybody  joins,  the  French  perhaps 
keeping  up  the  observance  with  the  greatest  vigor. 

PANCAKE  PARTIES— "This  reminds  one  that 
last  year  pancake  parties  were  all  the  go  at  the 
fashionable  seaside  places  in  France.  At  Etretat 
especially  it  became  quite  a  mania.  The  pancake 
batter  was  brought  on  the  beach  ready  mixed  in  a 
jar,  and  a  small  portable  charcoal  stove  was  erected 
in  a  sheltered  corner  against  the  rocky  shore.  The 
other  indispensable  components  of  the  pancake,  such 
as  sugar,  lemon,  and  butter,  were  also  brought  in  a 
hand-basket,  as  well  as  bottles  of  cider,  the  only 
beverage  allowed.  It  was  rather  an  amusing  sight 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


393 


PAN 

to  watch  a  group  of  elegantly  dressed  people  sitting 
on  the  beach  around  a  gentleman  in  shirt  sleeves 
with  a  white  apron  before  him,  handling  the  frying- 
pan  amidst  the  jokes  and  chaffing  of  the  audience; 
and  bets  were  often  made  as  to  the  tossing-  abilities 
of  the  amateur  cuisinier.  It  often  happened  that 
when  the  pan  was  handled  by  an  inexperienced  or 
nervous  person,  the  unfortunate  pancake  was  tossed 
up  so  awkwardly  that  it  dropped  half  cooked  into 
the  cinders,  to  the  merriment  of  all  present.  It  is 
not  everyone  who  knows  how  to  toss  a  pancake 
properly.  The  process  looks  simple  enough,  but  it 
is  by  no  means  so  easy  as  it  appears.  In  fact,  it  re- 
quires much  skill  and  practice  to  perform  the  feat 
with  success."  AMERICA:*  PANCAKES — The  pan- 
cake has  become  thoroughly  domesticated  in  Amer- 
ica in  the  form  of  batter-cakes,  which  many  people 
eat  twice  a  day  the  year  round,  a  habit  which  seems 
to  be  peculiarly  American  and  not  indulged  in  any- 
where else  in  the  world.  It  follows  that  we  have 
several  varieties  of  pancakes  and  an  easier  and  more 
rapid  way  of  cooking  them  than  in  a  frying  pan  one 
at  a  time,  for  we  have  a  griddle  which  will  bake  a 
dozen  or  two  at  once  or  fry  them  in  grease  as  well 
as  a  small  frying  pan.  The  chief  difference  between 
the  American  wheat  flour  batter  cake  and  the  French 
pancake  is,  that  the  former  is  (generally)  made 
light  with  some  raising  material,  the  French  cake  is 
Out  plain  batter  which  would  be  tough  if  the  cakes 
were  not  so  very  thin.  ENGLISH  PANCAKES — The 
English  mix  their  pancakes  with  ale  and  give  them 
time  to  rise,  for  ale  acts  the  same  as  yeast  and  their 
pancakes  are  light  in  consequence.  Hence  the  dif- 
ference in  form.  The  English  pancake  is  not  rolled 
up,  being  through  its  light  texture  somewhat  too 
thick  to  roll  well,  but  is  sent  in  hot  from  the  pan, 
dredged  with  fine  sugar  and  sprinkled  with  lemon 
juice.  FRENCH  PANCAKES — The  French  pancake 
is  baked  thin  as  paper;  is  spread  with  some  sweet 
preparation,  rolled  up  like  an  omelet,  the  ends  cut 
off;  a  number  are  baked  in  advance,  placed  on  a 
dish,  sugared  over'  and  the  top  glazed  by  melting 
the  sugar  in  the  top  of  a  hot  oven  or  by  holding  a 
red  hot  iron  close  to  it.  This  is  the  French  pancake 
which  becomes  familiar  to  hotel  guests  as  the  sweet 
entremet  "  French  pancakes  with  jelly."  PANCAKE 
BATTER,  AMERICAN— S  oz.  flour,  2  teaspoons  baking 
•oowder,  i  egg,  i  tablespoon  sugar,  y,  teaspoon  salt> 
fyi  cups  milk  or  cream,  i  tablespoon  melted  butter  or 
.ard  beaten  in.  GERMAN  PANCAKES— A  regular 
article  of  sale  at  the  restaurants  by  this  name  is  a 
pancake  J£  inch  thick,  baked  as  usual  in  a  frying 
pan  but  requiring  considerable  time.  The  batter  is 
made  as  for  light  American  pancakes.  Eaten  with 
butter  and  sugar  or  syrup.  PANCAKE  BATTER, 
ENGLISH—^  pt  ale,  J4  pt  water,  6  yolks,  little  salt, 
about  i  pt  flour,  i  glass  brandy.  PANCAKE  BATTER, 
FRENCH — 4  oz.  flour,  4  eggs,  little  grated  lemon  peel, 
salt,  ^J  pt  cream,  %  pt  milk.  To  be  baked  very  thin 
in  the  pan,  turned  over,  spread  with  jelly  or  marma- 
lade, sugar  on  top.  Swiss  PANCAKES— 6  eggs,  6 


PAP 

oz.  flour,  i  qt  milk,  salt.  Eggs  to  be  whipped  light, 
all  made  into  smooth  batter  like  thick  cream.  When 
11  the  pan  some  currants  shaken  in,  not  rolled  but 
served  with  sugar  dredged  over.  DANISH  PAN- 
CAKES— Made  small  and  thin,  spread  with  puree  of 
chestnuts,  doubled  over  in  half,  sugar  on  top, 
glazed,  served  with  apple  sauce  and  cream.  PAN- 
CAKE SOUFFLES — Plain,  thin  pancakes  are  baked 
and  spread  with  frangipane  pastry  cream  in  which 
some  whipped  whites  has  been  mixed.  The  pile  of 
cakes  then  baked  in  the  oven  are  served  while  ligh^ 
and  hot  POTATO  PANCAKES— An  excellent  sup- 
per-dish. Grate  a  dozen  medium-sized  peeled  po- 
tatoes. Add  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  a  heaping 
tablespoonful  of  flour,  with  a  large  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  lastly  the  whites  of  the  three  eggs  beaten 
stiff,  and  thoroughly  incorporated  with  the  potatoes. 
Fry  the  cakes  in  butter  and  lard  (equal  parts)  until 
they  are  brown.  PANCAKES  WITH  PEACHES  — 
Rolled  up  with  peach  preserves  or  fresh  stewed 
peaches.  PANCAKES  A  LA  MANCELLE — Spread  with 
puree  of  chestnuts  flavored  with  maraschino.  CRE- 
PES AL'X  CONFITURES — Pancakes  spread  with  jelly 
or  preserve  and  rolled.  CREPES  AU  RIZ — Rice  pan- 
cakes. (6ev  Crepes.) 

PAON  (Fr.)— Peacock. 

PAPER  CASES  — Little  paper  boats,  cups  or 
boxes  in  which  dainty  small  fish  or  birds  are  baked 
in  sauce,  or  souffles  are  baked  instead  of  in  cups,  or 
ices  are  frozen  and  served.  They  can  be  bought 
ready  made  at  confectioners'  supply  stores;  are  of 
various  fancy  forms,  crimped  and  fluted,  and  some 
are  of  the  finest  delicate  rice-paper.  Where  these 
cannot  be  obtained  sometimes  there  is  a  paper  box 
maker  who  will  furnish  some  of  a  plainer  sort, 
the  box  machinery  cutting  the  paper  for  cases  in 
shoit  order;  but  otherwise  the  cases  can  be  made  at 
home  by  clipping  fine  white  paper  to  shape  and 
pasting  up  the  ends  or  sides.  Thy  should  hold  from 
J^  pt.  to  Yi  pt.  according  to  use  intended. 

PAPER  FRILLS  FOR  CUTLETS— Paper  cut 
in  fringe  and  coiled  in  spirals  around  the  bones  of 
lamb  or  mutton  cutlets  to  serve  at  party  breakfasts. 
They  can  be  bought  by  the  gross  cheaply.  If  to  be 
made  at  home  double  a  sheet  of  paper  and  clip  the 
doubled  edge  to  fine  fringe,  then  move  the  other 
edges  of  the  paper  one  lower  than  the  other  and  the 
fringe  will  bow  open,  fasten  so  with  paste,  roll 
around  a  pencil,  and  the  fringe  paper  will  retain 
spring  enough  to  coil  around  the  bone. 

PAPER  RUFFLES  FOR  HAMS— Same  as  the 
preceding,  or  larger  size  to  place  upon  the  shank 
bone  of  a  decorated  ham. 

PAPER  NAPKINS— See  Japanese. 

PAPER-SHELL  ALMONDS— Soft-shell  orjor- 
dan  almonds. 

PAPILLOTE,  EN  (Fr.)— In  paper.  Lamb  and 
mutton  chops  in  some  styles  are  cooked  in  paper. 
White  unruled  paper  is  cut  to  the  shape  of  a  heart, 


394 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


PAR 

brushed  with  melted  butter,  the  cutlet  and  sauce  or 
forcemeat  placed  on  one  side,  paper  doubled  over  it, 
the  edges  fastened  by  pinching-  them  up  together 
and  baked  on  a  wire  broiler.  Some  styles  are  finished 
by  making  gridiron  marks  on  top  of  the  papers  and 
serving  in  the  papers  as  if  broiled;  in  others  the 
papers  are  removed  before  serving.  "  Pompadour" 
and  "  Maintenon"  are  among  the  paper -covered 
styles. 

PARMENTIER — A  man  remembered  in  connec- 
tion with  the  introduction  of  the  potato  in  France, 
and  who  caused  it  to  be  adopted  as  food.  The  po- 
tato had  been  known  and  eaten  in  England  and 
Spain  for  150  years  before  but  had  been  kept  out  of 
France  by  a  popular  prejudice.  At  the  period  of  a 
famine  of  bread-stuffs  Parmentier  applied  to  the 
King,  Louis  XVI.,  who  aided  him,  and  by  the  ruse 
of  guarding  the  precious  field  of  potatoes,  ostensi- 
bly, with  soldiers,  the  populace  were  induced  to 
steal  them  and  a  demand  was  thereby  created  and 
the  potato  was  adopted  into  general  use.  He  died 
in  1813.  POTAGK  PARMENTIER  —  Potato  soup;  a 
puree  of  potatoes  with  cream  and  butter.  (See  soups.") 

PARMESAN— Cheese.  A  kind  of  Italian  cheese 
especially  used  for  cooking  purposes,  and  always  in 
the  grated  form.  It  is  mixed  in  everything  denom- 
inated an  Parmesan,  when  if  other  kinds  of  cheese 
are  used  the  name  becomes  an  Fromage  —which 
means  any  kind  of  cheese.  Parmesan  is  directed  to 
l»e  served  with  all  soups  containing  macaroni  or 
other  Italian  pastes;  it  is  found,  however,  in  our 
hotels  that  the  attempt  is  not  often  successful,  the 
offer  of  grated  cheese  not  always  being  taken  in 
good  part.  This  remarkable  cheese  has  the  proper- 
ty of  keeping  for  an  indefinite  period,  and  growing 
as  hard  as  a  stone  without  losing  aught  of  the  deli- 
cacy of  its  flavor.  It  is  not  generally  eaten  as  cheese, 
yet  is  very  toothsome  grated  and  mingled  with  but- 
ter into  a  paste  to  be  spread  on  toast  or  biscuit.  It 
can  be  bought  ready  grated  in  bottles  at  the  Italian 
warehouses  and  fancy  groceries  and  is  used  in  that 
form  at  most  American  hotels. 

PARR  —A  fish,  the  young  salmon.  Up  to  the  age 
of  two  years  the  salmon  has  dark  markings  and  is 
without  the  silvery  luster  which  is  its  characteristic 
when  mature. 

PARSLEY— This  well-nigh  indispensable  herb 
can  be  grown  easily  from  the  seed  in  a  box  in  a  cellar 
or  in  a  garden  corner;  it  can  be  propagated  also  bv 
dividing  the  roots.  Its  flavor  is  mild  but  pleasant 
and  especially  suits  fish,  chicken  and  potatoes.  The 
roots  are  better  in  soup  than  the  leaves.  The  latter 
in  the  curly  variety  furnishes  the  most  ornamental 
«reen  sjarnish  for  many  dishes.  Chopped  finely  and 
squeezed  dry  by  twisting  in  a  towel  it  makes  a  green 
powder  very  much  prized  for  dusting  over  white 
stews,  etc.,  while  the  green  juice  expressed  is  use- 
ful for  coloring  sauces,  making  green  butter  and  add- 
ing to  the  color  of  green  pea  soups.  Parsley  sweetens 
the  breath  and  takes  away  the  odor  of  onions,  eaten 


PAR 

in  potato  salad,  in  which  it  is  one  of  the  principal 
ingredients.  FRIED  PARSLEY— Is  useful  to  garnis-. 
dishes  of  fowl,  etc.  \Vashandthorcughlydryth: 
parsley  in  a  c^oth,  and  fry  it  in  boiling  fnt  for  : 
couple  of  minutes,  or  till  it  is  crisp.  Take  it  or:. : 
with  a  slice;  and  dry  before  the  fire. 

j  PARSXIP — A  root  like  a  carrot,  nearly  white; 
best  in  the  spring  alter  being  frozen  in  the  ground. 
BOILED  PARSNIPS— Generally  eaten  with  boiled  meat 
or  fish.  The  parsnips  pared,  boiled  about  an  hour 
in  salted  water,  served  in  broth.  BROWNED 
PARSNIPS— Split  lengthwise,  boiled,  then  browned 

'  in  the  oven  with  salt  and  fat  from  the  roast  pan. 
FRIED  PARSNIPS— (/)-Boiled,  cut  in  slices,  dipped 
in  flour  and  browned  in  a  frying  pan.  (2)-Slices 
(after  boiling)  egged  and  breaded,  fried  by  immer- 
sion in  hot  fat.  PARSNIP  FRITTERS — Mashed  pars- 
nips with  butter,  pepper,  salt,  egg,  little  flour;  soft 
mixture  dropped  by  spoonfuls  in  hot  fat.  PARSNIP 
CAKES-Same  as  above  without  eggs,  in  flats  brown- 
ed in  pan.  STEWED  PAKSNIPS — Boiled,  cut  small 
in  cream  sauce. 

PARTRIDGE— The  old  bird  confessedly  has  a 
much  higher  flavor  than  the  young  one  but  do  what 
one  may  the  cook  will  never  obtain  the  delicacy  and 
tenderness  which  are  characteristic  of  the  young 
birds.  The  best  way  to  prepare  partridges  in  per- 
fection is  to  cook  old  and  young  together;  the  old 
birds  to  impart  flavor,  the  voung  ones  only  to  be 


PARTRIDGE — PERDREAU    OR   PERDRIX. 

served  at  the  table  in  the  first  instance,  the  others  to 
appear  in  other  forms  than  roasted  or  boiled,  as  in 
salmis  or  soups.  PERDRIX  AVX  Cuoux — Boiled 
partridge  with  cabbage.  One  of  the  national 
dishes  of  France.  Two  young  and  one  old  part- 
ridges in  a  stewpan  with  3  or  4  heads  of  cabbage,  4 
sausages,  i  saveloy,  %  Ib.  parboiled  bacon,  parsley,  i 
qt.stock,  i  glass  sherry ;  simmered  an  hour, young  par  • 
tndges  taken  out,  cabbage,  etc.,  cooked  longer.  Cab- 
bage pressed,  chopped,  placed  on  dish  with  sliced 
sausages  and  bacon  as  a  border,  partridges  carved 
and  piled  in  the  middle,  liquor  remaining  mixed  with 
brown  sauce  poured  over.  SALMIS  DE  PERDREAU  A 
I.'ANCIENNE — If  you  wish  for  a  salmis  possessing 
all  desirable  qualities  do  not  use  the  leavings  from 
a  previous  day,  but  let  the  bird  be  roasted  %  hour 
before  dinner,  cut  it  up  while  still  warm  rmd  keep  in 
a  closed  saucepan  while  sauce  (Jumef)  is  made  of 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


395 


PAR 

the  bones  and  trimmings  with  sherry,  onion,  thyme, 
%  a  bay  leaf,  peppercorns  and  mushrooms  and 
brown  saute.  Boil  down,  strain  and  pour  it  over 
the  cut  up  partridge.  ROAST  PARTRIDGE — Young 
birds  that  have  been  hung  a  while,  slice  of  bacon 
over  the  breast  tied  on,  roasted  in  the  oven  about  y, 
hour.  Served  with  game  sauce  like  that  with  salmis 
or  with  jelly.  PERDRIX  A  LA  CATALAN E — Partridge 
browned  on  the  outside  in  a  pan  with  chopped  ba- 
con, onion  and  aromatics,  wine  added,  braised  gent- 
ly. Raw  ham  cut  in  dice,  a  cupful  of  cloves  of 
garlic  previously  parboiled  and  red  pepper  added. 
BROILED  PARTRIDGES — May  be  served  with  poor 
man's  sauce  and  Indian  pickle.  Old  partridges  are 
only  fit  for  stewing  with  cabbage,  for  stock  broth, 
and  glaze  of  game;  but  are  too  tough  for  anything 
else.  BRAISED  PARTRIDGES — Larded  on  the  breasts, 
covered  with  buttered  paper  in  a  saucepan  with  veg- 
etables and  aromatics,  braised  in  own  steam  and 
liquor  2  hours.  STEWED  PARTRIDGES  —  Cut  in 
joints,  half  fried,  broth  added,  stewed  tender, 
orange  juice  and  littte  of  the  peel,  butter  and  flour 


BALLOTINES  OF  PARTRIDGES, 

Or  any  small  birds  on  rice  stand,  jelly,  truffle 
on  top,  etc. 

to  thicken.  COTELETTES  DE  PERDREAUX  A  LA  BAC- 
CHANTE—Breasts  of  partridge  flattened,  a  piece  of 
bone  or  macaroni  stuck  in  each,  bread  crumbed  and 
fried,  served  with  white  game  sauce  with  raisins, 
juice  of  grapes,  etc.  FILETS  DE  PERDREAUX  AUX 
PETiTsLEGUMES-Breasts  of  roast  partridges  dressed 
in  a  crown  with  young  onions,  carrots  and  turnips, 
out  in  shapes  and  glazed,  and  game  sauce.  EPI- 

f.RAMME  DE  PERDREAUX  AUX  CHAMPIGNON'S — Two 

kinds  of  fillets.  ( See  Epigramme.)  PEKDREAUX 
EN  ESCALOPES  AUX  TRUFFES— Thin  round  or  oval 
slices  from  the  breast  in  a  white  game  sauce  with 
truffles.  CHARTREUSE  DE  PERDREAUX — An  orna- 
mental mould  of  vegetables  filled  with  larded  and 
braised  partridges,  pieces  of  sausage,  dice  of  bacon 
and  jelly.  (See  Chartreuse.)  PERDXEAUX  EN  SOUF- 
FLE— Puree  of  roast  partridges  with  cream,  yolks, 


PAS 

and  whipped  whites,  baked  in  paper  cases.  PAR- 
TRIDGES A  L'  ANDALOUSE — Outside  fried  with  but- 
ter and  ham,  espagnole,  water,  sherry,  parsley,  aro- 
matics, red  pepper,  all  stewed  together  40  minutes. 
Sauce  strained.  BOILED  PARTDIDGE  WITH  CELERY 
— Boiled  with  salt  pork  and  vegetables;  pur£e  ot 
celery  poured  over. 

PARFAIT  (Fr.)— Perfect;  perfection.  Applied 
to  some  kinds  of  sweets  and  to  ices.  Same  as  ex- 
cellent (See  Ices.) 

PASTE  CUPS— Like  the  paper  cases,  but  formed 
of  paste,  almost  as  thin  as  paper,  done  by  dipping 
an  iron  shape  into  pancake  batter  and  holding  the 
shape  in  hot  fat  until  the  thin  coating  of  batter  is 
fried  and  will  come  off.  The  shape  or  mould  is  like 
a  small  tumbler  in  shape,  but  may  be  of  any  other 
form ;  made  of  iron  or  copper,  either  sol  id  or  hollow, 
has  a  stout  wire  handle  joined  to  the  top  to  hold  it 
by.  If  there  is  no  shape  to  be  had,  a  substitute  is  to 
use  tin  patty  pans  or  shells,  dip  the  outsides  in  bat- 
ter and  drop  them  in  hot  lard,  take  off  and  dip  again. 
Most  depends  on  the  batter,  it  must  not  have  any- 
raising  or  shortening  in,  but  made  same  as  French 
pancakes,  with  3  eggs,  i  pt.  milk  and  about'  3  oz. 
flour.  OYSTERS  IN  PASTE-CUPS,  OR  CAISSES  — 
Same  as  patties;  oysters  in  either  white  or  yellow 
sauce,  sprig  of  parsley  on  top.  PASTE-CUPS  AU 
SALPICON — Meat  of  any  kind  cut  in  very  small  dice, 
seasoned,  mixed  with  mushrooms,  parsley  and 
white  sauce;  same  as  chicken  patties.  COMPOTE  OF 
FRUITS  IN  PASTE  CUPS — Dished  like  vol-au-vents. 

PASTE — Several  kinds  are  made.  SHORT  PASTE 
— The  commonest  only  slightly  shortened  has  J^  Ib. 
of  either  suet,  lard,  or  butter  to  a  pound  of  flour. 
Xext,  for  boiled  dumplings,  has  %  ib.  shortening  to 
a  pound  of  flour.  Best,  for  pies  and  baked  dump- 
lings and  timbale  linings,  has  %  Ib.  shortening  to 
the  pound.  PUFF  SHORT  PASTE— %  Ib.  shortening 
to  a  pound  of  flour;  %  Ib.  of  it  rubbed  in  dry,  like 
all  short  paste,  remainder  rolled  in  flakes  like  puff 
paste.  SWEET  TART  PASTE — Short  paste  with  little 
sugar  and  egg  mixed  in,  for  fruit  tarts  and  cheese- 
cakes. ALMOND  PASTE — See  Almonds.  NOUILLES 
PASTE  —  See  Nouilles.  GUM  PASTE  —  See  Gum. 
PUFF  PASTE — Feuilletage.  This  singular  and  highly 
ornamental  paste  consists  of  layers  of  flour  and 
water  dough  rolled  to  the  extreme  of  thinness  with 
alternate  sheets  of  butter  between.  Suppose  a  sheet 
of  dough  made  of  plain  flour  and  water  only,  spread 
out  I  inch  thick;  on  top  of  that  a  similar  sheet  of 
butter  y±  inch  thick.  The  paste  is  folded  over  in  3, 
the  butter  in  it  keeping  the  layers  of  paste  separate. 
When  it  is  rolled  flat  again  there  will  be  3  layers  of 
dough  where  at  first  was  only  one.  Fold  in  3  again 
and  there  will  be  9  sheets  of  dough  in  the  same 
thickness;  fold  and  roll  the  third  time  and  there  are 
27  sheets  of  dough;  the  fourth  time  produces  81  lay- 
ers, the  fifth  time  243  layers  in  the  inch,  the  sixth 
time  729,  and  then  the  paste  is  ready  for  use  for 
some  purposes;  but  to  be  at  its  best  one  more  fold- 


396 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


PAS 

ing  and  doubling  is  required,  which  makes  2,187 
layers  or  sheets  of  paste  to  the  inch.  The  art  of 
making  puff  paste  consists  in  keeping  the  butter  in 
that  state  of  firmness,  yet  pliable,  that  it  will  con- 
tinue to  roll  along  with  the  paste  and  will  keep  the 
flakes  evenly  apart,  otherwise  the  layers  of  dough 
either  break  or  adhere  to  each  other  and  the  result 
is  a  failure.  The  rule  is  i  Ib.  butter  to  i  Ib.  flour 
and  an  ounce  or  two  more  to  dust  with;  the  ingre- 
dients must  all  be  cold.  Used  for  various  fine  pas- 
tries, tarts,  open  pies,  patty  cases,  turnovers,  etc. 
HOT  WATER  PASTE — For  raised  pies;  is  made  of 
y±  Ib.  melted  butter  to  each  pound  of  flour  and  J£  pt. 
water,  butter  and  water  both  made  hot  and  poured 
into  the  flour,  then  stirred  up  to  stiff  dough.  (See 
Pies.} 

PASTILLAGE  (Fr.)— Gum  paste. 

PATATES  (Fr.)— Sweet  potatoes. 

PATISSERIE  (Fr.)— Pastry.  PATISSERIE  D'A- 
MANDES  A  LA  CONDE — Fancy  shapes  of  puff  paste 
covered  with  chopped  almonds  and  sugar  in  large 
grains.  PATISSERIE  A  LA  TARTINE  —  Sandwiches 
of  puff  paste  and  jam. 

PATE  (Fr.)— Paste  and  pie,  especially  the  raised 
pie,  of  which  the  shell  is  formed  in  a  mould  and 
baked  in  it,  and  filled  with  meat  or  birds  afterwards 
and  baked  a  short  time  longer. 


FRENCH   PATE. 

PATE  MELE— Mixed  pate;  a  raised  pie  filled 
with  several  kinds  of  meat  cut  in  small  blocks,  in- 
terspersed with  mushrooms,  almonds,  pistachios, 
and  small  pickles,  all  solidified  in  the  pie  shell  with 
jelly.  To  be  eaten  cold.  The  wall  is  short  paste 
pressed  into  the  pattern  of  the  tin  mould,  which 
opens  on  hinges,  the  shell  is  then  filled  with  flour 
and  baked,  then  emptied,  decorated  with  nouilles 
paste,  filled,  egged  over  and  finished  in  the  oven, 
and  filled  up  finally  with  aspic  jelly  and  wine 
through  a  hole  in  the  lid.  PATE  D'EMINCE— Mince 
pie.  PETITS  PATES  DE  VOLAILLE — Small  chicken 
patties.  PETITS  PATES  A  LA  BOURGEOISE— Small 
patties  filled  with  veal  forcemeat.  PETITS  PATES 
DE  MOLTON  —  Small  covered  patties  filled  with 
minced  mutton,  brown  sauce  and  chopped  mush- 
rooms. PATE  CHAUD  D'AGNEAU — Lamb  pie,  hot. 
PATE  A  LA  LEICESTERSHIRE — A  pork  pie  made  as 
in  the  engraving.  PATE  CHAUD  DE  LAPEREAUX — 
Hot  rabbit  pie.  PATES  D'ITALIE — Italian  pastes. 
PATE  DE  FOIE  GRAS — Liver  paste. 


PEA 

PATTIES — Two  distinct  kinds  are  generally  un- 
derstood by  this  term.  (/)  The  puff  paste  shell  or 
vol-au-vent,  baked  by  itself,  and  the  hollow  middle 
filled  afterwards.  (2)  Tiny  pies  made  by  lining 
patty-pans  with  short  paste,  filling  with  the  oysters, 
chickens,  etc.,  and  covering  with  a  top  crust.  The 
petits  pates  are  generally  of  puff  paste,  without 
patty-pans;  the  smallest  are  called  bouchees.  PAT- 
TIES DE  CREME  DE  VOLAILLE — "Make  a  pur£e  of 
fowl,  cooked  in  milk  (no  salt).  Use  the  milk  in 
passing  the  puree  through  the  tammy;  put  the  whole 
over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan,  with  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
white  vegetable  soup;  stir  till  the  puree  is  quite- 
thick,  then  season  with  salt.  Have  puff-paste  cases 
ready,  three  parts  fill  with  the  puree;  decorate  the 
top  with  white  of  egg,  whipped  to  a  stiff  foam,  col- 
ored with  saffron,  spinach,  cochineal,  etc.;  season 
with  salt,  and  dry  in  the  oven,  but  do  not  color.  Set 
on  stands,  with  lace-paper  under  the  pastry,  and  a 
centre  piece  of  flowers  rising  out  of  the  middle  of 
the  stand.' 

PAUPIETTES  — Thin  slices  of  meat  stiffed, 
rolled  up  and  cooked.  The  same  which  the  English 
call  meat-olives.  PAUPIETTES  DE  VEAU — Slices  cut 
from  the  fillet  spread  with  forcemeat,  rolled,  and 
stewed  with  stock  and  wine. 

PAW -PAW— A  wild  fruit  of  the  Middle  States, 
shaped  somewhat  like  a  banana,  hut  thicker.  Grows 
on  a  tree  of  small  dimensions,  in  bunches  of  3  or  4. 
When  ripe,  it  contains  a  yellowish  pulp  which  re- 
sembles an  over-ripe  muskmelon  in  taste,  and  there 
are  several  seeds  like  broad  beans.  It  is  eaten  by 
some,  but  not  much  sought  after. 

PAYSANNE  («  la)— In  country  style. 

PEACH — One  of  the  choicest  of  American  fruits; 
grows  largest,  choicest,  and  in  greatest  number  of 
varieties.  Delaware  and  California  produce  the 
most  constant  crops  and  control  the  canning  busi- 
ness of  the  country.  California  canned  peaches  in 
syrup  are  the  same  as  the  compote  peaches  of 
French  cookery  and  are  ready  for  use  when  opened. 
PEACHES  AND  CREAM — The  fruit  is  pared,  cut  in 
small  pieces,  mixed  with  sugar  and  cream  in  a  bowl, 
served  with  cake.  If  peaches  are  handsome  it  is  ad- 
visable to  serve  them  whole,  as  they  present  an  ap- 
petizing appearance.  Wipe  them  thoroughly,  ar- 
range them  neatly  on  a  dish,  and  decorate  with 
peach  leaves.  A  border  of  the  rose  of  Sharon  (nar- 
cissus) presents  a  very  pretty  contrast.  PEACH 
SHORTCAKE — Chopped  free-stone  peaches  mixed 
with  sugar  spread  between  and  on  top  of  a  split  cake 
of  plain  short  paste,  or  on  round  sheets  of  puff -paste 
baked  separately.  Eaten  warm  with  cream.  BROILED 
PEACHES — Specialty.  Halves  of  peaches  stuck  full 
of  split  almonds  and  peach  kernels,  dipped  in  pow- 
dered sugar,  broiled  in  the  double  wire  broiler, 
served  hot,  covered  with  scalded  cream,  orange- 
flavored,  and  croutons  of  sponge  cakes  fried  in  but- 
ter around  in  the  dish.  PEACHES  ALA  WINDSOR — 
Two  halves  of  peeled  peaches  placed  in  natural 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


397 


form  in  a  cup  cut  out  of  sponge  cake,  sugared  over, 
glazed  and  cooked  sufficiently  in  the  oven;  peach 
syrup  with  maraschino  for  sauce.  PEACH  CHAR- 
LOTTE— See  Apple  Charlotte  PEACHES  A  LA  CONDE 
— Halves  of  peaches  on  a  bed  of  cooked  rice,  deco- 
rated with  rice  croquettes;  marmalade,  peach  syrup 
;tnd  Madeira  for  sauce.  PEACHES  ,A  LA  RICHELIEU 
— Halves  of  peaches  served  on  round  sponge  cakes 
dipped  in  kirschwasser  syrup,  garnished  with  mixed 
fruits,  citron,  etc.,  in  the  syrup.  SUEDOISE  OF 
PEACHES— A  peach  pyramid  made  of  half  peaches 
on  fried  rounds  of  bread  built  up  in  the  dish  around 
a  center  piece.  Syrup  poured  over.  TARTE  DE 
PECHES — French  open  peach  pie.  FLAN  DE  PECHES — 
Open  peach  pie  with  custard  on  top  of  the  fruit. 
BEIGNETS  DE  PECHES— Peach  fritters,  made  same  as 
apple  fritters  with  halves  of  peaches.  BEIGNETS 
DE  PECHES  AU  VIN  DU  RHIN — Made  with  peaches 
steeped  in  Rhine  wine,  and  wine  syrup  for  sauce. 
PAIN  DE  PECHES — A  mould  of  peach  cheese  or 
marmalade  stiffened  with  gelatine.  The  center  is 
hollow  and  filled  with  whipped  cream.  See  So  der 
Moulds.  CHARTREUSE  DE  PECHES— (i)  Mould  or- 
namentally lined  with  sliced  peaches,  and  filled  with 
peach  marmalade.  (2)  Make  a  puree  of  canned 
peaches,  blanch  and  slice  six  bitter  almonds,  sweet- 
en the  puree,  mix  in  the  almonds,  and  also  one  oz. 
of  gelatine  for  each  quart  mouldful  of  the  puree. 
I-ine  the  moulds  with  slices  of  fruits  of  all  colors. 
The  French  dried  and  preserved  bonbon  fruits  are 
best  for  this  purpose.  Dip  each  piece  in  nearly  cold 
strong  calfs-foot  jelly,  and  let  it  be  placed  in  posi- 
tion. Work  out  a  pattern  of  mosaic  design  with  the 
fruits.  When  set,  fill  with  apricot  mixture,  and 
serve  with  Devonshire  clotted  cream  around  the 
base  of  the  mould.  Turn  out  as  you  would  a  jelly. 
RISSOLES  OF  PEACHES — Spoonful  of  peach  marma- 
lade inclosed  between  the  flats  of  puff  paste,  egged, 
breaded  and  fried.  PEACH  TART  A  LA  MONTREUIL 
— Kind  of  pie  of  peaches  with  rice  at  bottom  and 
top.  PEACH  MERINGUE — Ripe  peaches  cut  small 
on  a  sheet  of  cake,  covered  with  meringue,  sugar 
sifted  on  top,  baked  light  color.  PEACH  DUMP- 
LINGS— Same  ways  as  apple  dumplings.  PEACH 
COBBLER — Popular  Southern  dish; a  peach  pie  baked 
in  a  large,  shallow  pan,  served  with  the  natural 
peach  syrup  and  cream.  PEACH  ICE — Puree  of 
peaches  in  syrup  and  glucose,  frozen.  PEACH  ICE 
CREAM— Ripe  peaches  cut  sr  all,  frozen  in  cream 
and  sugar.  PEACH  PIES — Same  ways  as  apple  pies. 
PEACH  CIDER — Common  in  some  districts;  made 
like  apple  cider.  PEACH  BRANDY — Like  "Apple 
J;ick,"  distilled  from  peaches;  abundant  and  cheap 
in  some  sections.  DRIED  PEACHES,  PEACH  PRE- 
SERVES, MARMALADE,  PEACH  BUTTER,  BRANDIED 
PEACHES  are  other  forms  in  which  surplus  peaches 
can  be  used,  and  PEACH  VINEGAR  and  PEACH 
SWEET  PICKLES  are  highly  esteemed  in  the  peach 
growing  st ites.  ICED  PEACHES — "Another  dessert 
dish  is  composed  of  peaches.  These  are  cut  open, 
the  kernel  i?  next  removed,  its  place  being  filled  up 


with  delicious  peach-ice  flavored  with  maraschino. 
The  two  halves  are  then  cemented  together  with  a 
thin  layer  of  the  same  ice,  the  fruit  passes  an  in- 
stant in  the  freezer,  and  is  then  served.  Other  stone- 
fruits  are  treated  in  the  same  way."  For  other  ways 
to  cook  and  use  peaches  see  Apples,  Apricots,  Pears. 
GERMAN  PEACH  KALTECH  \LE-In  Germany  a  fa- 
vorite and  very  pleasant  bowl  or  "cup"  is  often 
made  of  peaches,  sliced  and  soaked  for  a  time  in  a 
little  water  with  sugar,  and  three  or  four  bottles  of 
Rhine  wine  poured  over  them,  according  to  the 
amount  of  fruit  u?-;d. 

PEACOCK — Formerly  served  at  royal  banquets 
with  the  utmost  pomp  and  ceremony,  generally  with 
its  plumage  replaced  after  cooking  and  its  beak  and 
claws  gilded.  It  is  occasionally  now  sold  for  turkey 
and  passes  without  the  difference  being  noticed. 
The  reason  for  its  not  being  now  in  general  use  for 
the  table  is  the  harsh,  unsociable  nature  of  the  bird, 
which  makes  the  rearing  too  troublesome  and  too 
destructive  to  -other  poultry  to  be  followed  for  profit. 
THE  PEACOCK  AS  A  DECORATOR — "At  all  banquets, 
both  of  the  elder  and  of  the  middle  ages,  the  pea- 
cock was  a  favorite  piece  of  decoration.  Sometimes 
it  was  quite  covered  with  leaf-gold,  as  if  that  were 
an  improvement  upon  its  brilliant  dyes,  and  with  a 
bit  of  linen  in  its  mouth,  dipped  in  spirits  and  set  on 
fire,  it  was  served  on  a  golden  dish  by  the  lady  o^ 
highest  rank,  attended  by  her  train  of  maidens  and 
followed  by  music,  and  was  set  before  the  most 
distinguished  guest.  This  was  a  performance  of 
great  state  and  ceremony,  and  the  bird  was  held  in 
so  far  sacred  that  oaths  could  be  taken  on  its  head. 

PEA-NUT — The  ground  nut  or  ground  pea.  It 
grows  in  little  mounds  of  earth  and  the  nuts  form  on 
the  roots.  Enormous  crops  are  raised  in  Virginia, 
the  Carolinas  and  Tennessee.  The  bulk  of  the  nuts 
are  eaten  roasted,  large  quantities  are  converted 
into  oil  which  passes  for  olive  oil,  palm  oil,  etc. ; 
some  are  used  in  candy. 

PEAR — The  pear  is  produced  in  the  greatest  per- 
fection and  abundance  in  California.  The  Bartlett 
variety  is  the  best  for  table  use.  Shipped  in  boxes 
in  its  fresh  state  to  all  parts  it  is  obtainable  almost 
everywhere  in  the  season.  Canned  in  syrup  it  is 
equally  a  choice  fruit  for  table  use  in  that  form. 
SUEDOISE  OF  PEARS — See  Suedoise  of  Peaches.  PEAR 
CHARLOTTE — Same  as  apple  Charlotte.  PEARS  A  LA 
MARQUISE — Pears  on  a  rice  border  with  whipped 
cream  in  the  center.  TARTE  DE  POIRES — Pear  tart. 
FLAN  DE  POIRES — Open  pear  pie  with  custard  or 
cream  on  top.  BEIGNETS  DE  POIRES— Pear  fritters. 
BAKED  PEARS  are  most  suitable  for  a  luncheon  dish. 
Obtain  some  good  baking  pears,  peel  and  cut  in 
half,  removing  the  cores ;  place  them  in  a  large  brown 
jar  with  i  Ib.  of  loaf  suger  to  4  Ibs.  of  pears,  also 
the  thinly  cut  peel  and  juice  of  a  large  lemon;  cover 
closely,  put  in  a  slow  oven,  and  bake  until  tender) 
(See  Raisine  de  Bonrgo<>  tie.)  COMPOTE  OF  PEARS 
forms  a  nice  sweet  at  this  time  of  the  year.  Stew 


398 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


PEA 

your  pears  in  clarified  sugar,  flas-or  with  strips  of 
lemon -peel  and  color  the  sugar  with  cochineal, 
serve  cold  in  a  glass  dish.  PEAR  MARMALADE — 
Boil  the  rind  of  one  temon  and  i  oz.  bitter  almonds 
in  a  pint  of  water  for  half  an  hour.  Take  them  out 
and  add  one  Ib.  fine  sugar.  Boil  till  dissolved,  then 
add  the  juice  of  three  lemons,  3  Ibs.  pears  cut  into 
chips,  and  J£  Ib.  more  fine  sugar.  Simmer  gently 
till  the  chips  are  transparent.  Store  in  jars.  (Sef 
Apples,  Apricots.) 

PEAS — GREEN  PEAS  A  LA  FRANCAISE— Boiled 
and  white  sauce  added.  GREEN  PEAS  A  L'ANGLAISE 
—Dressed  with  butter  and  salt  only.  PETITS  Pois  A 
LA  PARISIENNE — Boiled  with  onions,  butter,  salt 
and  sugar  and  served  with  the  sauce.  PETITS  Pois 
AU  Jus — Stewed  in  stock.  PETITS  Pois  A  L'Ax- 
CIENNE — Boiled,  put  into  cream  sauce;  made  yellow 
with  yolk  of  egg.  PETITS  Pois  AUJAMBON — Stewed 
with  ham  cut  in  dice  and  young  onions.  PETITS 
Pois  EN  CASSES— Green  peas  boiled  in  the  pods. 
MARROWFAT  PEA— A  large  and  late  variety  of 
green  pea.  SPLIT  PEAS — English  yellow  field  peas 
hulled  and  split,  used  principally  for  making  soup, 
but  good  as  a  winter  vegetable  and  as  a  puree  with 
salt  meats.  BLACKEYED  PEA — A  Southern  variety, 
like  a  bean,  very  generally  eaten  in  the  South;  cooks 
to  a  dark  color.  LADY  PEA — White  Southern  va- 
riety, very  small,  scarcely  larger  than  wheat,  cooks 
yellow;  not  so  coarse  as  the  black-eye  pea;  in  good 
demand  for  the  table.  GREEN  PEAS  BOILED  IN 
THEIR  SHELLS — There  is  a  pea  now  cultivated 
which,  when  young,  has  such  tender  shells,  that 
they  are  able  to  be  eaten  as  well  as  the  peas.  Boil 
for  half  an  hour  in  water,  drain,  and  .warm  in  but- 
ter. Stir  in  some  cream ;  thicken  with  yolks  of  eggs, 
and  flavor  with  a  few  drops  of  vinegar.  OUR  COM- 
MON SPLIT-PEA  SOUP — Wholesome  and  agreeable 
in  winter,  with  dried  mint  and  tiny  croutons,  is 
wholly  unknown  in  France;  the  dried  green  peas, 
termed  pois  casses,  only  are  used  for  similar  pur- 
poses there. 

PECTOSE— The  jelly  making  constituent  of  fruit, 
abundant  in  the  cranberry  and  crab  apple.  "  Besides 
these  juices,  sugar,  cellulose,  starch,  and  vegetable 
albumen,  there  is  an  important  constituent  cf  suc- 
culent fruits  to  which  the  name  oi  pec  ten,  or  pectin, 
or pectose,  has  been  given.  It  is  vegetable  jelly,  aiso 
contained  in  turnips,  parsnips,  carrots,  etc.,  but  in 
smaller  proportions.  We  all  know  it  in  the  form 
of  currant  jelly,  apple  jelly,  etc.  In  its  separated 
state  it  is  about  the  most  digestible  food  in  existence. 

PELAMIDE  (Fr.)— Pilchard,  a  full  grown  sar- 
dine; fish  like  a  herring. 

PEMMICAN — Often  named  in  relation  to  Indian 
or  Arctic  life;  it  is  beef  dried  and  pounded  to  pow- 
der, mixed  with  beef  fat  and  sometimes  with  dried 
fruits  such  as  curtants;  packed  in  cakes  and  bags. 

PEPPER — Ground  pepper  is  subjected  to  adul- 
teration to  a  greater  extent,  probably,  than  any 
other  commodity  required  in  the  hotel  store-room. 


PEP 

and  the  simplest  means  to  avoid  imposition  is  to  buy 
i  the  pepper  in  the  whole  state  and  have  it  ground  in 
the  house.  So  systematic  is  the  practice  of  the  inanu- 
1  facturers  of  ground  spices  they  make  little  or  no  dis- 
guise of  the  fact,  but  only  of  the  kind  of  adulterants 
;  employed,  for  the  buyer  in  quantity  is  offered  dif- 
ferent grades,  as   "pure,  first  adulteration,   second 

!  adulteration,   ana  third  adulteration,"  according  to 

• 

the  price  he  is  willing  to  pav.  Where  pepper  is 
purchased  for  use  and  not  for  re-sale  it  is  manifestly 
the  cheapest  plan  to  buy  the  "pure,"  if  it  be  pure,  or 
the  whole  berry  and  grind  it.  The  stuff  found  in 
adulterated  peppers  is,  in  various  mixtures,  mustard 
hulls,  peanut  cake,  ground  olive  stones,  cocoanut 
shells,  meal,  sand,  spent  ginger,  charcoal,  etc.,  the 
commonest  and  cheapest  samples  containing  no  pep- 
per at  all  but  the  dust  and  tailing  from  the  mills. 
BLACK  PEPPER — Is  the  seed  of  a  perennial  climbing 
plant  found  growing  wild  in  parts  of  India,  but  is 
extensively  cultivated.  The  seeds  or  pepper  corns 
are  gathered  just  before  they  are  ripe  and  are  dried 
on  mats.  WHITE  PEPPER — Is  the  same  berry  as 
black  pepper  allowed  to  ripen  before  picking,  when 
it  does  not  shrink  like  the  black  and  the  outer  black 
husk  or  bran  can  be  removed,  making  the  grains 
white.  White  pepper  :s  much  the  better  for  most 
cooking  purposes;  that  is,  for  adding  to  dishes  that 
are  already  cooked,  as  it  does  not  show  in  dark 
specks,  but  black  pepper  is  to  be  preferred  for  fla- 

i  vor;  to  be  cooked  in  compounds  which  are  to  be 
strained  afterward.  MIGNONETTE  PEPPER — Is  black 
pepper  crushed,  not  ground,  that  it  may  be  cooked 
in  sauces  and  soups  and  be  easily  strained  out,  being 
coarse.  LONG  PEPPER — An  inferior  sort  of  pepper 
sometimes  used  in  pickling  but  now  in  little  demand. 
It  is  not  fit  to  grind,  having  an  unpleasant  flavor. 
It  is  used  to  some  extent  to  adulterate  ground  white 
pepper  and  is  the  source  of  the  offensive  odor  given 
out  by  some  samples  of  white  pepper  when  heated 
in  cooking.  Long  pepper  is  the  seed  of  a  weed 

i  which  grows  along  the  water-courses  in  India. 
CAYENNE  PEPPER  —  Red  pepper  pods  and  seeds 
ground;  the  small  capsicums  are  the  kind  generally 
used,  but  there  is  a  mixture  of  various  sorts.  The 
adulterating  material  is  yellow  corn  meal,  turmeric, 
mustard  hulls,  etc.,  but  it  is  not  difficult  to  get  it 
quite  pure  from  respectable  merchants.  SPANISH 
SWEET  PEPPERS — A  large  kind  of  "bull-nose"  pep- 
per used  green  as  a  vegetable,  stuffed  and  baked,  or 
eaten  raw,  as  a  salad.  COLORING  PEPPER— In  New 
Orleans,  and  Florida  cities  a  sort  of  cayenne  of  very 
mild  taste  is  used  under  the  above  name,  principally 
in  fish  cooking.  It  is  an  article  of  regular  sale  in 
grocery  stores,  and  occupies  the  same  place  in  Creole 
cookery  that  curry  powder  holds  in  that  of  other 
countries.  It  is  mixed  with  Creole  boiled  rice  in  suf- 
ficient amount  to  make  the  whole  dish  light  red:  a 
fish  to  be  baked  is  laid  open  in  the  pan  and  perfectly 
covered  with  the  red  coloring  pepper  before  cook- 
ing; it  enters  into  jambalaya  and  into  the  fish  stew 
known  there  bv  name  of  courtbouillon. 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


399 


PER 

PEPPER  POT— The  native  soup  of  the  British 
West  Indies,  mentioned  in  song  and  story.  It  is  a 
hotch-potch  like  the  Spanish  olla  fodrida,  one  song 
running  to  the  effect  that  when  made  in  camp,  each 
soldier  drops  into  the  pot  whatever  he  has  been  able 
to  capture  or  obtain  in  any  way,  chickens,  game, 
fresh  or  salt  meats,  and  vegetables  of  all  sorts;  the 
special  seasoning  is  a  native  sauce,  cassareep,  and 
plenty  of  chili  pepper. 

PERCH  — "The  ancients  have  not  left  us  any 
hints  as  to  how  perch  were  cooked.  The  present 
practice  over  the  Continent  is  to  stew  them  in  vine- 
gar, fresh  grape,  orange  juice,  or  other  sour  sauce; 
but,  though  this  is  certainly  the  common  way  in 
Italy,  at  the  Lago  Maggiore  they  are  spitted  in  their 
scales,  and  basted  while  roasting  with  the  same  acid 
juice.  In  Holland  butter  is  added.  The  finest  perch 
is  the  zander,  or  giant  perch  of  German  waters.  A 
recent  writer  declares  that  it  is  worth  going  all  the 
way  to  Dresden  to  taste  it."  The  perch  is  one  of 
the  most  abundant  fresh-water  fish  on  both  sides  of 
the  Atlantic.  Its  name  in  French  is  the  same  as  in 
English,  it  can  scarcely,  therefore,  appear  in  any 
menu  in  disguise. 

PERDRIX,  PERDREAUX  (Fr.)  —  Partridges; 
the  latter  term  is  applied  to  young  birds. 

PERIGORD  («/«)  —  With  truffles;  name  of  a 
town  in  France  famous  as  a  truffle  market. 

PERIGORD  PIE— A  pate  or  raised  pie  of  boned 
partridges  and  fresh  truffles. 

PERIGEUX,  SAUCE— Truffle  sauce,  made  of 
espagnole,  meat  glaze,  white  wine  and  sliced  truf 
rles.  Meats  served  with  this  sauce  are  a  la  Peri- 
geiix.  PARISIAN  RESTAURANT  RECiPE-And,  being 
amongst  my  recipes,  here  is  one  for  a  sauce  which  is 
most  delicious,  and  which,  being  of  truffles,  can  be 
eaten  with  almost  any  dish.  It  is  called  Sauce  Peri- 
genx  :  Chop  up  some  lean  ham  into  small  dice  and 
mix  it  with  an  onion  and  shallot  minced  very  fine. 
Fry  this  with  some  butter  in  a  saucepan  until  the 
onion  has  browned  the  whole,  when  add  a  little 
jfvhite  wine  and  let  it  simmer.  Make  some  browned 
butter,  mix  the  sauce  with  it,  with  an  equal  quantity 
of  bouillon  and  shredded  truffles.  Let  it  simmer 
again  until  it  becomes  of  the  consistency  of  sauce. 
Pass  it  through  a  sieve  and  add  as  many  truffles  as 
possible,  cut  into  slices,  when  the  sauce  will  be 
ready  for  use. 

PERIWINKLE-A  sea  snail  of  small  size,  cooked 
and  eaten  as  a  relish,  cold,  but  does  not  enter  into 
any  compound  dishes. 

PERRY— The  juice  of  the  pear;  pear  cider. 

PERSILL  ADE  (Fr.)— Parsley  sauce;  a  dish  made 
•rrt't-n  with  cooked  parsley. 

PERSIMMON— A  wild  fruit  of  the  Middle  and 
Southern  Slates;  good  but  neglected;  grows  on  trees 
of  small  dimensions.  It  has  the  shape  and  appear- 
ance of  a  small  tomato,  the  color,  however,  is  yellow 
when  nearly  mature  and  reddish  brown  when  fullv 


PHE 

rripe;  this  state  is  not  reached  until  after  a  slight 
frost.  It  is  then  a  mass  of  very  sweet  pulp  contain- 
ing several  brown  seeds,  the  taste  is  musky,  like 
the  banana.  While  it  is  of  but  little  value  as  fresh 
fruit  it  will  make  a  pleasant  sparkling  wine.  It  is 
made  into  Persimmon  Seer  in  Virginia  in  this  way  : 
A  barrel  with  pine  branches  in  the  bottom,  or  straw 
if  pine  is  not  to  be  had,  and  a  faucet,  is  half  filled 
with  ripe  persimmons;  a  panful  of  the  fruit  mixed 
with  bran  or  meal  is  baked  until  partly  browned 
and  added  to  the  fruit  in  the  barrel  to  heighten  the 
flavor;  the  barrel  is  then  filled  up  with  water  and 
allowed  to  ferment  like  cider.  In  a  few  days  it  is 
drawn  off  into  another  barrel  and  bunged  tight  or 
bottled,  and  the  first  barrel  refilled  with  water  even- 
tually makes  vinegar.  Good  domestic  wine  can  be 
made  without  the  baked  fruit,  and  without  sugar,  a 
little  yeast  spread  upon  toast  assisting  the  fermen- 
tation. PERSIMMON  BREAD-The  sweet  pulp  of  per- 
simmons rubbed  through  a  strainer  used  to  mix  with 
corn  meal  instead  of  water,  makes  a  sweet  corn  cake. 

PETTITOES— Sheeps'  feet,  lambs'  feet  or  pigs' 
feet.  The  common  popular  name  of  sheeps'  petti- 
toes is  sheeps'  trotters. 

PETIT  OR  PETITE  (Fr.)-  Small.  PETITS  Pois 
— small  (young)  green  peas.  PETITS  PAINS — Small 
loaves,  rolls.  PETITES  FONDUES — small  souffles  of 
cheese  and  eggs  in  paper  cases.  PETITES  MERIN- 
GUES— Small  meringues  or  egg-kisses. 

PETITS -CHOUX  (Fr.)— One  of  the  three  or  four 
names  attached  to  the  hollow  cakes  popularly  known 
as  cream  puffs  when  filled  with  cream.  Thepetits- 
choux  paste  is  employed  for  several  purposes.  (See 
Eclairs,  Profiterolles,  Queen  Fritters.) 

PHEASANT—"  The  pheasant  has  probably  been 
more  praised  and  more  abused  than  any  other  game 
bird.  Dr.  Kitchiner  says  its  rarity  is  its  best  recom- 
mendation, while  Kettner  says,  if  kept  till  the  fit- 
meice  is  tully  developed,  it  is  beyond  all  other  fowls. 
This  is  the  point  at  which  opinion  divides.  The 


PHEASANT — FAISAX  DE  BOHEME. 

pheasant  requires  long  keeping  to  be  eatable,  and 
those  who  do  not  like  'high'  game  do  not  like  the 
pheasant."  "Some  people  will  stare  with  as- 
tonishment when  we  name  boiled  pheasant,  yet 
the  only  pheasant  we  ever  really  enjoyed  was 
boiled,  and  served  with  celery  sauce."  BOILED 
PHEASANT —  "When  you  want  a  superb  dish 


400 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


PHO 

a  dish  that  will  strike  your  guests  with  amaze- 
ment :inil  awe,  boil  a  pheasant,  and  serve  it  with 
oyster  sauce.  I  am  aware  that  this  sounds  like  a 
culinary  heres3'.  Try  it.  I  do  not  say  you  will  aban- 
don roasting,  but  I  do  say  this — the  recollection  of 
that  dish  will  haunt  you  for  months,  and  you  will 
not  rest  satisfied  until  you  have  it  again  before  you." 
ENGLISH  PHEASANT  EN  PLUMAGE— The  head  taken 
off  with  its  feathers,  also  the  rump  with  the  long 
tail-feathers,  both  reserved  while  the  pheasant  is 
larded,  roasted,  placed  in  dish  and  plumage  fastened 
in  place  with  silver  skewers.  ROAST  PHEASANT-- 
Larded,  slice  of  bacon  tied  on  breast,  butter  and 
shallots  inside,  roasted;  served  with  bread  sauce. 
PHEASANTS  IN  ENGLAND — Are  regarded  almost  as 
domestic  fowls,  being  protected  as  they  are  in  game 
preserves  and  bred  and  thinned  out  systematically. 
Their  flesh  is  light  in  color,  and  they  are  cooked  in 
most  of  the  ways  suitable  for  poultry.  French  and 
other  Continental  menus  most  frequently  mention 
Bohemian  pheasants,  or  faisans  de  Bolieme.  FAI- 
SANS  A  LA  SOUBISE — Braised  pheasants  covered  with 
Soubise  sauce.  FAISANS  A  LA  BOHEMIENNE — Phea- 
sants stuffed  with,  joie gras,  truffles,  etc.,  cooked  in 
mirepoix;  served  in  the  sauce  with  truffles.  FAI- 
SANS A  LA  FONTAINEBLEAU— The  breasts  are  larded 
in  a  square.  They  are  braised  in  white  stock  with 
lettuces  and  sausages,  and  served  with  the  garnish 
and  brown  sauce.  Pheasant  pies  and  pheasant  gal- 
antines, in  the  usual  ways. 

PHOSPHORUS  PASTE  FOR  ROACHES— 
The  following  recipe  for  the  destruction  of  cock- 
roaches in  bakehouses,  etc.,  is  efficacious:  Mix  i 
dram  of  phosphorus  with  2  oz.  of  water  in  a  stone 
jar;  set  this  in  hot  water  until  the  phosphorus  is 
melted,  then  pour  into  a  quart  or  half-gallon  pan 
containing  }^  Ib.  of  melted  lard.  Stir  up  quickly, 
and  put  y^.  Ib  of  fine  sugar  and  %  Ib.  flour  made  into 
a  stiff  paste.  Make  the  paste  into  small  balls  about 
the  size  of  small  Spanish  nuts,  and  put  them  about 
wherever  you  find  the  cockroaches,  and  fill  up  all 
cracks  and  holes  with  the  paste.  They  will  eat  it 
and  die  by  hundreds. 
'PICCA~LILLI— Mixed  pickles. 

PICKEREL, — American  lake-fish  of  the  pike  fam- 
ily, larger  than  a  pike,  and  of  first  quality  for  the 
table;  is  cooked  by  broiling,  boiling,  frying,  or 
baking. 

PIECES  MONTEES— Large  decorative  pieces 
of  cooks'  work  of  all  kinds.  "The  service  a  la  Russe, 
by  some  gourmets  lauded  to  the  skies,  by  others 
abominated  as  inartistic  and  unconvivial,  has  almost 
banished  savory  pieces  montees  from  the  dinner  table. 
Save  at  a  restaurant  in  Paris  or  St.  Petersburg,  we 
rarely  see  our  food  in  its  entirety.  But  there  are  cer- 
tain plats  which  should  be  seen  before  they  are  eaten. 
Such  is  the  saumon  a  la  Chambord,  surmounted  by- 
its  forest  of  hatelets ,'  the  dinde  tritffee,  and  in  partic- 
ular tiiepoulet  a  la  Marengo,  that  glorious  pyramid 
of  fowl  fried  in  oil — Napoleon's  cook  hud  no  butter 
when  his  master  teturned  from  his  famous  victory, 


PIE 

and  was  fain  to  use  Lucca  oil  instead — eggs,  sippets, 
and  crawfish.  Served  a  la  Russe  in  fragments  from 
an  invisible  entity,  these  historic  mets  would  lose 
half  their  purport  and  significance." 

PIE — There  is  a  marked  dissimilarity  between  the 
English  and  American  idea  of  pie.  An  English 
feast  is  scarcely  complete  without  pie,  and  at  a  ball 
supper  there  will  be  a  variety;  but  they  are  pies  of 
meat  and  game,  whereas  the  American  pie  in  general 
is  a  sweet.  A  few  hot  pies  of  meat  are  in  high  favor 
here,  such  as  chicken  pie;  but  nobody  ever  thinks  of 
ordering  a  cold  meat  pie.  This  is  the  saying  of  an 
English  gourmet  and  expresses  the  national  idea: 
A  GRADATION  OF  PIES — "The  best  of  all  pies  is  a 
grouse-pie;  the  second  is  a  blackcock-pie;  the  third 
a  woodcock-pie  (with  plenty  of  spices);  the  fourth  a 
chicken-pie  (ditto).  As  for  a  pigeon-pie,  it  is  not 
worthy  of  a  place  upon  any  table,  as  long  as  there 
are  chickens  in  the  world.  A  rook-pie  is  a  bad 
imitation  of  that  bad  article;  and  a  beefsteak- 
pie  is  really  abominable.  A  good  pie  is  ex- 
cellent when  hot;  but  the  test  of  a  good  pie  is: 
'How  does  it  eat  cold?"  Apply  tins  to  the  samples 
above  cited,  and  you  will  find  I  am  correct." — 
RAISED  PORK  PIES — There  are  establishments  in 
England  where  these  are  turneJout  by  the  ton, equal- 
ing the  American  pie  bakeries,  and  are  shipped  to 
all  parts;  they  are  of  all  sizes  but  the  greater  num- 
ber are  of  the  small  sort  for  retailing  at  the  same 
average  prices  as  American  sweet  pies.  They  con- 
sist of  a  case  made  of  hot  water  paste,  which  con- 
sists of  %  Ib.  shortening  to  each  pound  of  flour  and 
%  pt.  hot  water,  stirred  up  at  medium  heat(not  boil- 
ing) into  a  stiff,  smooth  dough  and  shaped  by  hand 
entirely,  the  outer  wall  being  pinched  and  pressed 
upwards  from  the  bottom.  The  cut  meat  and  season  - 
ings  are  then  put  in,  the  lid  put  on  in  a  separate 
piece;  the  pie  decorated  and  then  baked.  The  diffi- 
culty of  making'occurs  with  the  large  sizes.  Those 
who  have  attempted  to  make  the  article  as  a  home- 
manufacture,  know  that  the  great  difficulty  is  to  get 
the  crust  sufficiently  stiff  to  stand  and  keep  erect 
with  such  weighty  contents  as  are  put  inside,  and^ 
without  disastrous  collapse.  By  a  few  deft  turns 
of  the  hand,  the  palm  being  most  used,  the  fore- 
man, at  our  visit,  encased  the  solid  wooden  "block" 
used  for  the  purpose  with  an  even  outer  casing  of 
paste,  until  it  "stood  alone"  on  the  withdrawal  of 
the  block,  like  a  good  silk  dress,  supported  by  its 
own  inherent  richness  of  material.  Inside  this  the 
solid  contents  were  then  placed,  the  lid  was  put  on, 
the  line  of  juncture  neatly  pared  off  with  an  instru- 
ment which  left  an  ornamental  border;  the  flowered 
"chase- hooping"  was  passed  round  the  circumfer- 
ence, to  make  surety  doubly  sure;  the  ornamental 
foliage  or  scroll  work  on  the  cover,  with  the  heradic 
arms  and  manufacturers'  stamp  was  affixed,  and  the 
finished  article  was  ready  to  be  sent  to  the  oven. 
The  latter  is  kept  at  an  evenly  regulated  tempera- 
ture, maintained  by  a  thermometer  gague;and  when 
the  pie  eomes  out  brown,  crisp,  ;md  erect,  the  work- 


THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


401 


PIE 

man's  anxieties  are  at  an  end.  The  better  kinds  of 
pies  have  a  richer  crust.  {See  Paste.)  RAISED 
FRENCH  PIES — Are  often  made  in  winter,  as  they 
will  keep  a  week  or  two  closely  covered,  and  they 
are  frequently  sent,  packed  in  a  close  tin  box,  for  a 
considerable  distance  as  a  Christmas  gift.  These 
pies  have  standing  crust  or  walls,  and  may  be  filled 
with  game  or  poultry,  previously  boned,  seasoned 
and  stewed,  and  they  are  generally  made  very  large. 
"  Put  the  pie  into  an  oven  and  bake  until  brown. 
The  lid  must  be  baked  separately.  When  both  are 
done,  remove  the  bones  and  bread  crusts  from  the 
inside  of  the  pie,  and  fill  with  the  prepared  ingredi- 
ents, which  must  be  previously  stewed  in  their  own 
gravy,  with  the  addition  of  bits  of  butter  rolled  in 
flour."  (See  Pate.)  AMERICAN  PIE— A  Philadel- 
phian  claims  that  there  are  more  pies  eaten  in  his 
city  than  in  New  York.  He  says  that  Philadelphia 
makes  about  45,000  pies  per  day  throughout  the  year, 
which  makes  315,000  pies  per  week,  or  1,588,500  for 
the  entire  year.  In  a  single  day  it  uses  for  the 
average  run  of  pies  40  tubs,  32  qts.  each  of  fruit, 
300  qts.  of  milk,  7  barrels  of  flour,  500  Ibs.  of  lard, 
400  Ibs.  of  cheese,  60  doz.  eggs,  and  various  other 
ingredients  in  lesser  quantities.  The  total  output 
from  all  the  large  concerns  is  about  20,000  pies  daily. 
Then  there  are  hundreds  of  small  bake-shops  and 
each  of  them  makes  from  half  a  dozen  to  several 
hundred  pies,  or  altogether  about  25,000  per  day. 
This  makes  the  total  number  about  45,000  per  day,  or 
15,885,500  in  a  year.  In  New  York  one  of  the  fore- 
men of  a  large  factory  stated:  "In  our  establish- 
ment we  turn  out  every  kind  of  pie  so  far  discovered, 
but  there  are  certain  kinds  that  are  staple.  These 
are  apple,  mince,  lemon,  grape,  raisin,  plum,  goose- 
berry, whortleberry,  strawberry,  peach,  raspberry, 
pineapple,  pumpkin,  and  custard.  Apple,  mince, 
lemon,  pumpkin,  and  custard  are  the  favorites.  All 
our  material  is  the  best  in  the  market,  and  we  buy  it 
in  large  quantities,  always  keeping  our  orders 
ahead."  "  How  much  material  do  you  use  daily  ?" 
asked  the  reporter.  "  In  a  single  day  we  use  about 
loo  dozen  eggs,  850  pounds  of  lard,  12  barrels  of 
flour,  600  quarts  of  milk,  2,500  quarts  of  fruit,  and 
turn  out  about  7,000  pies,  or  about  50,000  a  week  and 
2,600,000  a  year.  The  output  from  the  large  con- 
cerns in  the  city  will  amount  to  35,000  pies  daily, 
and  the  bakers  will  turn  out  about  40,000  more,  or 
75,000  a  day,  525,000  a  week,  and  27,300,000  per  year, 
an  average  of  about  sixteen  pies  per  capita."  YAI.E 
PIE— Put  three  or  four  pounds  of  steak,  seasoned 
,with  pepper  and  salt,  into  a  medium-sized  dish;  cut 
in  pieces  two  chickens,  lay  them  on  the  steak,  and 
over  them  put  a  dozen  oysters,  without  the  liquor, 
add  six  hard  boiled  eggs;  pour  in  half  a  pint  of 
strong  ale;  and  cover  the  whole  with  fresh  mush- 
rooms and  half  a  pound  of  neat's  foot  jelly;  cov2i 
the  dish  with  a  good  paste,  and  bake  in  a  brisk  oven. 
VEAL  PIE— "Weal  pie,"  said  Sammy  Weller,  "is  a 
werry  good  thing  when  it  isn't  cats  and  you  know 
the  woman  wot  made  it." 


PIG  i 

PIGEONS  (Fr.)— Pigeons.     The  same  in  both 
languages. 

PIGEONNEAUX  (Fr.)- Young  pigeons;  squabs. 
PIGEONS — "  Pigeons,  quails,  and  other  dark- 
fleshed  birds  have  the  reputation  af  being  a  heating 
diet,  which  is  probably  correct.  But,  however  that 
may  be,  one  epicurean  rule  holds  good  with  pigeons, 
which  is,  whatever  recipes  may  be  given  to  serve 
hot,  in  all  forms  they  are  better  eaten  cold.  There 
are,  in  fact,  only  two  orthodox  ways  of  cooking 
pigeons,  namely,  in  a  baked  pie,  and  in  a  boiled  pie, 

•  or  pigeon  pudding."     PHILADELPHIA  SquABS-Have 

•  a  great  reputation  and  serve  a  good  purpose  as  a 
substitute  for  game.     Old  pigeons  are  really  good 
only  in  one  way,  that  is,  "jugged"  or  potted,  which 

•  means  cooked  in  a  covered  jar  in  the  oven  for  sev- 
eral hours.   FATTENED  PIGEONS — Bordeaux  pigeons 
may  now  be  seen  in  the  markets  in  boxes  of  12,  as 
large  and  plump  as  partridges.     We  cannot  under- 
stand why  the  farmers  of  France  are  allowed  to  re- 
tain a  monopoly  in  fattening  pigeons  for  the  table; 

i  surely  there  is  an  opening  here  for  our  own  people. 

I  BROILED  PIGEONS— Pluck,  draw,  singe,  and  truss 
your  pigeons;  beat  them  until  flat,  and  warm  in 
melted  butter,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper.  When 
nearly  cooked,  remove  the  pigeons,  sprinkle  them 
with  breadcrumbs  and  broil  over  a  moderate  fire 
until  a  good  color.  Dish  up,  covered  with  piquante 
sauce.  PIGEON  AU  Riz  AUX  TOMATES — Specialty. 
One  of  the  special  dishes  of  the  Cafe  de  Paris,  in 
the  Avenue  de  1'Opera,  is  pigeon  an  riz  aux  tomates, 
and  this  dish  is  prepared  as  follows :  Sautez  in  but- 
ter two  pigeons,  add  salt  and  3  fine  tomatoes  cut  in 
4,  pipped  and  peeled.  Meanwhile  fry  in  butter  2 
finely  minced  onions,  and  when  these  are  of  a  nice 
golden  color  add  200  grammes  of  picked  rice.  Con- 
tinue warming  your  rice  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then 
moisten  with  a  pint  of  clear  bouillon;  allow  the 
whole  to  cook  for  20  minutes,  withdraw  the  pigeons, 
and  add  the  rice.  This  dish  should  be  served  at 
once.  PIGEON  A  LA  ZETLAND — Cut  the  birds  in 
half,  steep  in  a  highly  spiced  wine  marinade,  let 
them  Jie  for  12  hours.  The  last  hour  place  on  the 
hot  plate,  so  that  they  ma}'  be  half  cooked;  then 
drain,  wipe  the  birds  dry,  wrap  in  a  vine  leaf,  draw- 
ing the  stalk  through  the  tip  of  the  leaf,  dip  into  a 
batter  and  fry.  Garnish  with  fried  parsley;  brown 
gravy.  POTTED  PIGEONS— Bone  the  pigeons,  stuff 
with  veal  and  ham  forcemeat  highly  seasoned;  press 
the  birds  into  deep,  brown  earthenware  dishes,  cover 
with  butter  well  seasoned  with  mignonette  pepper, 
mace  and  allspice.  When  the  birds  are  cooked,  lift 
them  carefully  out,  and  whilst  hot  press  into  oval 
pots.  To  dish,  turn  out  on  to  dishes  covered  with 
lace  paper;  garnish  with  light  endive,  capers  and 
pickled  chillies.  PIGEON  CUTLETS  WITH  GREEN 
PEAS-Halves  of  pigeons  simmered  in  butter,  pressed 
flat  until  cold,  trimmed  to  shape  of  cutlets,  breaded, 
broiled;  with  green  peas  in  the  dish.  PIGEON  As- 
pic-Stewed  pigeons,  meat  pounded  through  a  seive, 
mixed  with  cream  and  yolks  and  seasonings  over 


402 


THE   STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


PIG 

the  fire.  Layers  of  aspic  jelly  and  layers  of  pigeon 
puree  alternately  in  a  mould,  made  cold,  turned  out 
and  decorated.  PIGEON  PIE — Bottom  of  baking 
dish  covered  with  thin  beefsteak,  halves  of  pigeon 
on  that,  hard-boiled  yolks,  forcemeat  balls,  mush- 
rooms, thin  slices  of  bacon,  strong  beef  gravy,  crust 
of  pastry  on  top,  baked  1%  hours.  STEWED  PIGEON 
—  Partly  fried  in  butter,  slice  of  lean  ham,  mush- 
rooms, stock,  herbs,  seasonings  and  wine,  stewed  j 
together  until  the  sauce  is  rich  enough  for  gravy. 
ROAST  PIGEONS— Cover  young  pigeons  with  vine 
leaves,  wrap  them  up  in  bacon  and  roast  for  J^  hour. 
Serve  with  their  own  gravy,  and  garnish  with  water 
cresses.  FILETS  DE  PIGEONS  A  LA  DUXELLE — 
Breasts  of  pigeons  coated  with  Duxelles  sauce, 
breaded  and  fried;  Provencale  sauce  and  mushrooms. 

COTELETTES   DE   PIGEONS  AU   FUMET   DE   GlBIER — 

Breasts  of  pigeons  breaded  and  fried,  piece  of  bone 
stuck  in  to  imitate  a  cutlet;  game  sauce.  PIGEON 
CCTLETS — Are  also  made  of  the  halves  of  pigeons 
boned,  except  the  leg  bone,  which  represents  the 
cutlet  bone,  as  above,  with  green  peas. 

PIGEONS,  WILD— There  are  times  in  some  parts 
of  the  country  when  immense  flocks  of  wild  pigeons 
settle  down  in  the  forest  for  a  few  days,  and  the 
people  from  the  neighboring  villages  shoot  them  by 
thousands,  glutting  the  market  for  a  brief  period. 
With  a  little  experience  it  is  easy  to  pick  out  the 
young  birds,  which  may  be  roasted  or  broiled,  and  | 
the  heavier  old  ones  should  have  long  cooking  in  a 
gravy. 

PIG  — How  TO  SERVE  ROAST  PIG— "Of  late  they 
have  got  into  a  trick  of  serving  up  the  roasted  pig 
witthout  the  usual  concomitants.  I  hate  the  inno-  ! 
vating  spirit  of  this  age;  it  is  my  aversion,  and  will 
undo  the  country.  Always  let  him  appear  erect  on 
his  four  legs,  with  a  lemon  in  his  mouth,  a  sprig  of 
parsley  in  his  ear,  his  trotters  bedded  on  a  lair  of 
sage.  One  likes  to  see  a  pig  appear  just  as  he  used 
to  do  upon  the  board  of  a  Swift,  a  Pope,  an  Arbuth- 
not.  Take  away  the  customs  of  a  people,  and  their 
identity  is  destroyed."  PEACH-FED  PIG— At  a  re- 
cent dinner,  given  by  Lady  Eardley,  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  dishes  was  cold  ham  cut  from  a  pig  fed 
entirely  on  peache?,  and  imported  from  America.  It 
was  served  with  aspic  jelly  and  truffles.  PIGS  AND 
PARSNIPS — There  was  nothing  considered  more  del- 
icate in  the  sixteenth  century,  nothing  more  odor- 
iferous, than  the  flesh  of  young  pigs  fed  on  parsnips, 
and  roasted,  with  a  stuffing  of  fine  herbs.  COCHON 
DE  LAIT  A  LA  SAVOYARDE-Sucking  pig  stuffed  with 
sausage-meat,  rice, •shallots,  seasonings;  served  with 
little  sausages,  white  sauce  with  wine  and  mush- 
rooms. COCHON  DE  LAIT  A  LA  PERIGEUX — Stuffed 
with  truffles,  served  with  Perigeux  sauce.  COCHON 
DE  LAIT  A  LA  CHIPOLATA — Sucking  pig  stuffed  with 
chestnuts  and  sausage-meat,  served  with  Chipolata  ' 
garnish.  COCHON  DE  LAIT  EN  GALANTINE — A  ; 
boned  pig,  stuffed,  decorated. 

PIGS'  FEET — They  are  put  up  in  package*  of  all  , 


PIX 

sizes  in  spiced  vinegar,  making  a  convenient  and 
very  acceptable  article  of  hotel  provision  all  through 
the  season  of  cool  weather.  Generally  served  cold, 
very  often  breaded  and  fried,  or  broiled,  or  stewed 
in  white  sauce  thickened  with  yolks.  PIEDS  DE 
PORC  A  LA  STE.  MENEIIOULD— Pigs'  feet  breaded 
and  fried.  BONELESS  PIGS'  FEET— Can  be  bought 
in  cans.  They  are  capable  of  being  cooked  in  or- 
namental or  shapely  ways  by  being  heated  and 
pressed  first. 

PIKE — Fresh-water  fish  common  and  plentiful  in 
America.  The  pike  has  been  honored  with  the  most 
elaborate  cooking  in  France,  pike  a  la  Chambord 
being  an  artistic  dish.  There  are  many  better  fish 
than  the  pike,  however,  and  it  makes  only  a  good 
ordinary  fry  or  broil  at  a  moderate  price  in  this  coun- 
try. BROCHET  A  LA  REGENCE  —  "The  pike  was 
cooked  for  2  hours  in  strong  gravy  and  3  bottles  of 
champagne;  the  stuffing  was  of  pounded  crayfish 
and  whiting,  and  the  pike  was  also  covered  an  inch 
thick  all  over  with  the  same,  the  head  and  eyes  be- 
ing marked  out  with  chopped  truffles,  and  the  body 
covered  with  'bracelets'  of  truffles  and  cravfish  tails, 
with  rosettes  of  filleted  sole.  Bunches  of  eel-cutlets 
were  not  wanting,  nor  pvramids  of  mushrooms,  nor 
oysters,  nor  carps'  tongues  and  milts,  nor  ten  of  Ca- 
rgme's  never  ending  skewers,  fitted  out  with  the 
same  garnitures;  and  then  you  behold  le  brocket  a  la 
Regence,  which  some  miserable  plagiarists  had  the 
audacity  to  put  in  a  menu  opposite  a  dish  of  small 
fish!" 

PILAU,  PILLAU,  OR  PILAF-Turkish  dish  of 
rice  and  butter,  with  or  without  meat  or  tomatoes  or 
other  additions,  generally,  however,  haviug  mutton 
cut  in  dice,  and  a  flavoring  of  fried  onions. 

•PILCHARD— English  sea  fish  like  a  herring. 

PILOT  FISH— So  called  from  its  being  the  fore- 
runner of  the  shark.  The  appearance  of  pilot  fish 
around  a  vessel  is  always  followed  bv  the  appear- 
ance of  the  white-bellied  monsters.  Pilot  fish  are 
captured  for  market  and  cooked  by  frying,  broiling 
and  baking. 

PIMENTO— Allspice. 

PIXON  NUT— Mexican  nut  like  the  pistachio, 
about  the  size  of  a  beech  nut.  Sold  in  most  city 
fruit  stores. 

PINEAPPLE— The  pineapple  is  grown  abun- 
dantly in  the  Bahamas  and  all  the  West  India  islands 
and  is  cheap  in  all  American  markets.  CANNED 
PINEAPPLE — Is  a  favorite  supper  fruit;  it  is  compote 
of  pineapples  ready  prepared.  GRATED  PINEAPPLE 
— In  this  form  it  is  used  in  pineapple  ice  cream  and 
pineapple  sherbet.  See  Ices,  Sherbets.  PINEAPPLE 
PIE — An  open  pie  or  tart  with  grated  pineapple  and 
sugar  for  filling.  PINEAPPLE  CREAM  PIE— Grated 
pineapple  mixed  with  powdered  crackers  and  cus- 
tard mixture,  baked  in  a  crust,  not  covered.  This 
fruit,  can  be  used  in  all  the  principal  ways  same  as 


THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


403 


PIN 

other    fruits,    in  tarts,   marmalade,   jeily  and  pre- 
serves.    (See  Apples,  Apricots.') 

PINTADE  (Fr.)— Guinea  Fowl. 

PIQUE  (Fr.)— Larded  with  strips  of  bacon  or 
tongue,  truffle,  mushroom  stalks,  etc.  FII.ET  DE 
BCEUF  PIQUE — Larded  fillet  of  beef. 

PIQUANT  SAUCE— Brown  sauce  made  piquant 
by  adding  chopped  shallots,  little  vinegar  and  pep- 
per, boiled  a  few  minutes,  chopped  capers  and  gher- 
kins added,  and  meat  glaze  if  only  ordinarv  brown 
sauce  be  used. 

PISTACHIO    NUTS— Much    valued    in   pastry 
and  confectionery  for  their  pea-green  color  and  al- 
mond flavor.  The  nut  is  gathered  in  the  green  state. 
It  is  about  the  size  of  a  filbert,  is  the  seed  of  a  tree 
which  grows  in  Italy  and  the  East.     Is  generally 
found  in  the  Italian  fruit  stores  ready  shelled,  but 
has  a  reddish  husk  which  is  removed  by  scalding, 
like  almonds.    The  price  varies  as  the  crop  some- 
times fails,  but  a  common  price  is  about  40  cents  a 
pound.     While  the  flavor  is  delicate  it  is  weak  and 
needs  the  addition  of  almond  flavor  to  make  it  com- 
plete.   PISTACHIO  ICE  CREAM — Pounded  pistachios 
and  almonds  pounded,  some  spinach  juice  or  safe  I 
vegetable   green   coloring  to   heighten     the    color,  i 
(which,  in  whatever  these  nuts  are  used,  should  al-  | 
ways  be  green),  glucose,  sugar  and   cream  frozen.  I 
PISTACHIO  'FRITTERS — Chopped  pistachios  in  twice 
their  weight  of  sweet  fritter  batter,   dropped    by 
.spoonfuls  in  hot  lard  and  fried — these  can  be  made 
green  fritters  by  adding  spinach  green.     CREME  DE 
PISTACHES — Pistachio  ice  cream.      PETITES    ME- 
RINGUES AUX  PiSTACHES-Kiss  meringues  sprinkled  i 
with  chopped   pistachios  and  filled   with   whipped  | 
cream.         BAVAROIS  AUX    PISTACHES  —  Bavarian  [ 
cream,  green,  with  pounded  pistachios  and  almonds,  j 
sprinkled   over  when  turned   out  of    mould    with 
chopped  pistachios.  PETITS  CHOVX  EN  GIMBLETTES 
— Ci  earn  puffs  like  jumbles,  that  is,  in  rings,  dipped 
in  syrup,  then  in  chopped  pistachio  nuts  and  sugar. 
PETITS  PUITS  AUX  PISTACHES— Little  wells  of  pas- 
try; i.e.,  puff  paste  tartlets,  brushed  over  with  syrup, 
covered  with  chopped  pistachios  and  sugar  and  filled 
with  whipped  cream.   GATEAU  DE  PISTACHES— Pis- 
tachio cakes  made  in  all  the  same  ways  as  almond 
cakes.    (See  Almond.) 


PLAICE— PLIE. 

PLAICE— An  English  flat-fish,    larger    than   a 
flounder,  distinguished  by  yellow  spots  on  the  back. 


PLA 

"Plaice,  to  be  eaten  in  perfection,  should  directly 
it  is  caught  be  cleansed,  its  head  cutoff,  and  then  be 
hungup  by  the  tail,  and  sprinkled  with  salt,  and  left 
to  dry  for  about  twelve  hours;  if  for  filleting,  the 
fillets  should  then  be  removed  and  laid  in  a  marinade 
of  lemon-juice,  a  few  drops  of  oil,  pepper,  salt, 
shredded  onion,  and  parsley,  for  two  or  three  hours. 
The  fillets  must  be  w  iped  perfectly  dry  on  a  clean 
cloth  before  using.  Treated  in  this  way  they  lose 
almost  entirely  the  watery,  wooly  taste  so  often 
complained  of." 

PLANTAIN — A  variety  of  banana,  less  sweet 
than  the  banana  common  in  the  markets  and  better 
suited  to  be  baked  with  sugar. 

PLATE— At  the  sale  of  a  collection  of  old  plate, 
which  took  place  a  few  days  ago  at  a  country  house 
in  Bedfordshire,  the  extraordinary  price  of  eighty- 
six  shillings  per  ounce  was  paid  for  a  pair  of  old 
English  sconces,  date  1718.  Nearly  as  much  was  ob- 
tained for  a  true  Queen  Anne  loving  cup,  with 
double  handles  and  cover,  dated  17:3.  A  quaint  old 
heater,  with  grid-iron,  dated  1679,  realized  no  less 
than  sixty-six  pounds.  It  is  clear  that  the  prevail- 
ing "depression"  does  not  in(the  least  affect  the  cur- 
rent value  of  objects  of  art,  if  they  are  really  of 
genuine  merit.  THE  ROYAL  PLATE,  which  is  prob- 
ably the  finest  in  the  world,  is  usually  kept  in  two 
strong-rooms  at  Windsor  Castle,  and  is  valued  at 
two  millions  sterling.  The  gold  service,  which  was 
purchased  by  George  IV  from  Rundell  and  Bridge, 
dines  one  hundred  and  thirty  persons;  and  the  silver 
wine-cooler,  which  he  bought  about  the  same  time, 
holds  two  men,  who  could  sit  in  it  comfortably.  It 
is  enclosed  with  plate-glass,  and  is  splendidly 
"chased."  THE  CLEANING  AND  TREATMENT  OF 
PLATE — The  best  Paris  whiting  (perfectly  clean  and 
free  from  grit),  moistened  with  spirit  or  water  until 
about  the  consistency  of  cream,  should  be  smeared 
on  the  article  and  lightly  rubbed  off  with  a  soft 
chamois  or  wash- leather.  The  ornamental  parts, 
where  it  cannot  be  rubbed  off,  brush  briskly  when 
dry.  Polish  with  a  rouged  leather  (a  little  rouge 
should  be  placed  on  the  leather  from  time  to  time, 
not  on  the  article);  afterwards  rinse  with  hot  water, 
in  which  a  little  soap  has  been  dissolved,  and  care- 
fully wipe  quite  dry  with  a  clean  leather.  FROSTED 
SILVER — Use  only  whiting  and  spirit,  no  rouge. 
GILT  WORK — Wipe  only  with  a  rouged  leather;  if 
badly  tarnished,  moisten  with  a  little  spirit.  Leath- 
ers for  cleaning  plate  should  be  kept  dry.  When  a 
leather  is  washed,  it  should  be  rinsed  in  a  weak  so- 
lution of  soap  and  water  (water  alone  would  make  it 
hard);  and  when  dry,  pulled  and  rubbed  till  it  becomes 
perfectly  soft.  Plate  after  use  should,  if  necessary,  be 
washed  with  hot  water  and  soap,  and  wiped  over 
with  a  leather  before  it  is  put  away.  Plate  keeps 
its  color  longest  in  a  dry  place,  free  from  gas  and 
other  fumes;  and,  if  cleaned  according  to  above  in- 
structions, will  last  much  longer  than  if  cleaned  in 
any  other  way.  In  the  case  of  Brittania  metal  and 
nickel  silver  goods  (not  silver-plated),  the  plain  sur- 


404 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


PLA 

face  should  be  cleaned  with  polishing  paste,  and  the 
ornamental  parts  brushed  with  whiting  (as  above 
directed),  and  finally  polished  with  a  leather  and  dry 
whiting. 

PLATS —  (Fr.)— Dishes  of  meats,  etc.  PLATS  DU 
JOUR — Dishes  of  the  day;  a  few  prepared  dishes  for 
dinner  which  one  may  find  at  the  best  restaurants, 
besides  the  uprepared  dishes  which  may  be  ordered 
from  the  card. 

PLATEAU— The  central  ornament  of  a  dinner 
table;  sometimes  it  is  a  mirror  laid  flat  in  imitation 
of  a  lake  bordered  with  moss  and  flowers;  some- 
times it  is  a  raised  bank  of  flowers;  at  other  times 
a  pyramidal  device  or  a  temple. 

PLIE  (Fr.)— Plaice,  a  fish. 

PLOMBIERES  ICE— A  mixture  of  ice  cream 
and  candied  fruits,  named  for  a  place.  (See  Ices.) 

PLOVERS  —  The  best  plovers  are  the  golden 
plovers.  Tljey  were  the  first  birds  that  were  eaten 
without  being  drawn,  and  they  are  still  dressed  in 
this  way.  BROILED  PLOVERS — Broiled  plovers  are 
very  good  as  a  supper  dish.  They  should  be  simply- 
broiled  as  they  are,  kept  -well  buttered  while  cook- 
ing, and,  when  ready,  served  on  slices  of  fried  bread. 
ROAST  PLOVERS— Plovers  should  never  be  drawn, 
but  wrapped  up  in  slices  of  bacon  and  roasted.  Lay 
some  pieces  of  toast  in  the  dripping-pan,  and  serve 


PLOVER — PLUVIER. 

the  plovers  on  them.  CROUSTADES  OF  PLOVER  A  LA 
PROVENCALE — Plovers  in  brown  sauce  with  garlict 
mushrooms,  white  wine,  parsley,  served  in. cup- 
shapes  of  fried  bread.  FILETS  DE  PLUVIERS  AUX 
CHAMpiGNONS-Breasts  of  roasterl  plovers  with  crou- 
tons spread  with  the  trail,  and  mushrooms  in  game 
sauce.  FILETS  DE  PLUVIERS  A  LA  LucuLLUs-Fillets 
of  plovers  covered  with  forcemeat  and  served  in  a 
border  of  toasted  bread,  with  a  thick  puree  of  plov- 
ers piled  in  the  center  and  game  sauce  around.  POT- 
TED PLOVERS — Boned  plovers  with  raw  game  force- 
meat packed  in  a  jar  with  seasonings,  wine  and  es- 
sence made  from  the  bones,  cooked  in  the  oven. 
Served  cold. 

PLOVERS'  EGGS— Plovers'  eggs  have,  how- 
ever, a  far  higher  reputation  than  the  birds  them- 
selves. They  are  delicious  little  morsels  hard-hoiled; 
they  are  incomparable  in  a  salad  or  sandwich;  and 
most  admirable  of  all  set  like  large  opals  in  aspic 
jelly.  "  Plovers'  eggs  are  generally  eaten  hard,  and 


PLU 

require  seven  or  eight  minutes  to  cook.  They  are 
often  used  as  border  for  mayonaise  salads,  or  dished 
up  on  a  rice-stand  and  garnished  with  aspic  jelly. 
They  iire  also  served  in  their  shells  and  dished  in 
a  nest  of  moss.  In  the  latter  case  slices  of  brown 
bread  and  butter  should  be  handed  with  them 
"We  have  noticed  this  spring  that  ready-boiled 
plovers'  eggs  appear  in  the  poulterers'  windows — 
price  8  cents  each."  WAYS  OF  SERVING — Plovers* 
eggs  are  best  au  naturel.  Some  people  prepare 
them  in  various  sauces  and  gravies,  or  set  them  in 
aspic  jelly ;  but  simply  hard  boiled  -  they  should  boil 
ten  minutes — and  served  either  hot  or  cold  (the  last 
for  preference),  in  a  napkin,  in  their  shells,  or  else 
shelled  and  prettily  ornamented  with  watercress  or 
parsley,  they  are  more  appetizing  than  when  cooked 
up  a  la  Bechamel,  a  la  tripe,  en  aspic,  etc.  SUBSTI- 
TUTES FOR  PLOVERS'  EGES — When  the  demand 
for  pheasants'  eggs  begins  to  slacken,  they  might 
take  the  place  of  plovers'  eggs.  For  the  table  they 
are  very  fine  eating.  The  young  of  the  black-headed 
gull  is  excellent  eating.  Its  eggs  resemble  crows' 
more  than  plovers'  eggs;  but  vast  quantities  of  them 
are  sold  for  plovers'  eggs. 

PLUCHE—  Of  green  herbs  for  soups  and  stews; 
finely  cut  sorrel,  chervil,  parsley,  etc. 

PLUCK— Common  popular  name  of  the  heart, 
liver  and  lights  (lungs)  of  small  animals  as  exposed 
for  sale  by  the  butchers  as  lambs'  pluck,  etc. 

PLUMS— A  considerable  number  of  stone  fruits 
are  included  in  the  general  name  of  plum,  varying 
from  the  large  egg  plum  and  greengage  to  the  dam- 
son in  size  and  appearance.  All  the  ways  of  cook- 
Ing  and  using  apricots  and  most  of  those  named  for 
apples  can  be  employed  suitably  for  plums  in  some  of 
their  varieties.  The  greengage  is  especially  a  choice 
fruit  for  the  compote  dish,  and  its  color,  to  contrast 
with  the  orange  yellow  of  the  apricot,  gives  it  a 
particular  value  in  decorative  pastry  work.  (Set 
Apples.  Apricots,  Greengage,  Pears,  Peaches, 
Cherries.) 

PLUM  PUDDING  — Peculiar  to  Christmas  in 
this  country,  as  crepes  and  pancakes  are  to  Shrove- 
tide elsewhere.  It  has  been  an  institution  in  Britain 
for  centuries,  but  in  olden  times  was  a  porridge,  a 
sort  of  mincemeat,  and  was  eaten  before  the  meats 
instead  of  after.  There  is  a  story  of  a  late  day  of  a 
great  Englishman  abroad  who,  having  distinguished 
guests  to  dine  with  him  on  Christmas,  decided  to 
surprise  them  with  the  treat  of  an  English  plum 
pudding,  and  accordingly  instructed  his  French 
cook  how  to  make  it.  But  he  forgot  to  tell  him  the 
ingredients  were  to  be  tied  up  in  a  bag,  so  when  the 
pudding  was  ordered  in  the  cook  with  a  string  of 
assistants  marched  in  with  a  procession  of  soup 
tureens  holding  what  should  have  been  the  pudding. 
The  mixture  when  prepared  had  been  stirred  into 
the  great  pot  of  boiling  water  and  made  into  soup. 
SAMPLE  RECIPE — There  are  a  score  or  two  of  dif- 
ferent recipes  for  making  plum  pudd::-.ir;  for  a  good 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


405 


PLU 

sample  see  Christmas  Pudding.  This  is  symbolical: 
THE  PUDDING  OF  THE  THREE  KINGS  — Is  a  very 
rich  plum  pudding,  made  from  the  old-fashioned 
concomitants.  A  basin  is  buttered,  lined  with  a  thin 
suet  crust;  then  the  pudding  mixture  is  put  in  to 
half  fill  the  hasin.  This  is  followed  by  a  rich  cus- 
tard perfumed  with  orange  flower  water;  a  paste 
cover  is  put  on,  and  the  whole  steamed  for  from  6 
to  8  hours;  turn  out  and  serve  with  brand}' sauce. 
The  spices  and  good  things  represent  the  gifts  of 
the  three  kings  of  Cologne,  who  were  said  to  be  the 
wise  men  of  the  Star  of  Bethlehem  fame;  the  paste 
is  the  casket  enshrining  the  treasures.  A  PLUM 
PUDDING—  y2  Ib.  each  suet,  currants,  sugar,  J^  Ib. 
each  citron  and  candied  orange  peel,  6  oz.  flour,  2 
oz.  t,readcrumbs,  %  Ib.  raisins,  i  teaspoon  ground 
cinnamon,  J4  nutmeg,  I  lemon  rind  and  juice,  I  glass 
brandy,  4  eggs,  little  salt;  boiled  5  or  6  hours. 

PLUM  CAKE-Usually  called  fruit  cake.  With 
a  pound  cake  mixture  first  prepared  as  a  base,  any 
desired  amount  of  fruit  may  be  added  with  or  with- 
out spices,  the  color  of  the  cake  when  done  will  be 
according  to  the  spices  and  fruit  contained.  {See 
Dundee  Cuke.)  GOOD  PLUM  CAKE— Is  made  of 
i  Ib.  buvter,  i  Ib.  brown  sugar,  9  eggs,  i  %  Ib.  flour. 
i  b.  currants,  i  Ib.  stoned  raisins  or  seedless  raisins 
chopped,  j£  Ib.  citron,  4  oz.  almonds  blanched  and 
split,  nutmeg,  grate.d  lemon  rind,  I  glass  whiskey; 
baked  in  a  mould  lined  with  buttered  paper. 

PLUVIERS  (Fr.)— Plovers. 

POACH — To  cook  in  a  pocket  or  pouch;  to  cook 
in  a  very  little  water.  POACHED  EGGS — Cooked  in 
a  shallow  pan  of  water  in  rings  —muffin  rings — 
which  keep  them  in  shape,  or,  cooked  in  more  wa- 
ter which  is  made  to  rotate  in  the  pan  by  stirring 
before  the  egg  is  dropped  in,  which  carries  the  egg 
while  the  outside  cooks  in  good  shape.  POACHED 
QUENELLES— Small  balls  of  delicate  forcemeat  are 
poached  in  little  broth,  to  be  taken  up  easily  at  the 
right  moment.  Sometimes  the  surfaces  of  large 
quenelles  are  decorated  and  must  be  poached  with- 
out the  decoration  being  covered. 

POCHE  (Fr.)  —  Poached.  CEurs  POCHES  — 
Poached  eggs. 

POELE — Same  thing  as  mirepoix,  except  the 
color.  Poele  is  white  or  colorless  broth  of  bacon 
and  ham  with  vegetables,  used  to  boil  chickens, 
sweetbreads,  etc.,  in  instead  of  water. 

POIRES  (Fr.)— Pears. 

POIREAUX  (Fr.>— Leeks. 

POIS  (Fr.)— Peas. 

POISSON  (Fr.)— Fish. 

POISSONIERE  (Fr.)— Fish-kettle  with  drainer 
in  the  bottom. 

POITRINE  DE  VEAU  (Fr.)— Breast  of  veal. 
POITRINE  DE  V  EAL*  ROTIE — Plain  roasted ;  brown 
sauce.  POITRINE  DE  VEAU  A  LA  PRINTANIERE — 
Breast  of  veal  boned,  stuffed,  rolled  up,  braised; 
served  with  garnish  of  spring  vegetables. 


POM 

POIVRE  (Fr.)— Pepper. 

POIVRADE  SAUCE— A  peppery  sharp  sauce, 
brown.  (/)  Espagnole  with  vinegar  and  broken 
pepper-corns  boiled  in  it,  and  a  spoonful  of  wine. 
(2)  Carrot,  onion,  salt  pork  in  dice,  pepper-corns 
bruised,  bay  leaf,  parsley,  thyme;  all  fried  in  butter; 
drained  of  butter;  vinegar  and  brown  sauce  added, 
I  or,  if  no  brown  sauce,  some  brown  butter-and-flour 
thickening  and  water;  simmered,  strained. 

POKE  WEED— A  tall,  showy  American  wild- 
plant  which  bears  purple  berries.  The  young  leaves 
are  gathered  in  spring  for  tender  greens.  The  ber- 
ries are  used  for  domestic  dyes. 

POLENTA — Italian  corn-meal  mush  or  porridge 
usually  seasoned  with  grated  cheese,  butter,  or  to- 
mato sauce,  or  all  of  them.  It  is  treated  in  many 
ways  the  same  as  macaroni,  being  baked  with  cheese 
mixed  in  and  on  top.  Polenta,  or  mush,  is  also  made 
of  chestnut  flour  and  of  wheat  farina.  POLENTA 
PUDDINGS — Same  as  American  corn-meal  puddings; 
hot  mush  with  syrup,  butter,  eggs,  fruit,  cream;  in 
several  varieties.  POLENTA  EMMANUEL  —  Boil  i 
teacupful  of  Indian  corn-meal,  stirring  till  thor- 
oughly boiled;  mix  with,  first,  a  small  pat  of  melted 
butter  and  grated  Parmesan  cheese;  serve  very  hot 
with  a  rich  gravy  flavored  with  tomatoes,  and  with 
roast  larks  or  other  small  birds  on  top. 

POLONAISE  (a  la)— In  Polish  style. 

POLPETTI— Italian  croquettes  of  minced  meat 
with  cheese  and  other  seasonings;  fried. 

POMMES  (Fr.)— Apples. 

POMME-DE-TERRE  (Fr.)  — Earth-apple;  the 
potato.  The  full  name  is  seldom  used,  and  whether 
the  \vorApomme  in  a  bill  of  fare  stands  for  apple  or 
potato  is  to  be  judged  from  the  context.  POMMES 
NOUVEAUX — New  potatoes. 

POMEGRANATE— A  southern  fruit  of  little 
utility,  sufficiently  plentiful  in  the  southern  markets; 
the  fruit,  however,  is  curious  and  peculiar  and  the 
subject  of  frequent  mention  in  ancient  books,  while 
the  small  tree  which  bears  it  is  a  most  charming  or- 
nament to  the  gardens  and  pleasure  grounds  where 
it  grows,  bearing  a  profusion  of  showy  blossoms  in 
April  and  May.  The  fruit  is  a  pulpy,  many-seeded 
berry,  the  size  of  an  orange,  with  a  hard,  brown 
shell.  It  is  pink  or  red  inside  like  some  varieties  of 
oranges.  POMEGRANATE  WATER-ICE — Juice  of 
pomegranates  strained  through  a  seive  and  the  pips 
excluded,  an  equal  quantity  of  strong  sugar-syrup 
or  glucose  added,  little  lemon  juice,  orange  rind, 
color  to  make  it  pink;  frozen. 

POMEGRANATE  MELON— Often  called  the 
pomegranate.  It  is  a  tiny  green -rind  melon,  mottled 
like  the  pie-melon,  and  not  larger  than  an  orange. 
Inside  it  is  pink  with  abundant  small  seeds,  closely 
resembling  the  pomegranate.  Although  pleasantly 
flavored  as  a  melon  its  small  size  precludes  it  from 
being  grown  except  as  a  curiosity. 


406 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


POM 

POMPANO— Choice  southern  fish  from  J  pound 
to  4  or  5  pounds  in  weight;  shaped  like  the  sunfish, 
or  "pumpkin-seed  fish,"  with  very  small  scales, 
steel-gray  color.  It  has  a  fine  nutty  flavor,  which  is 
best  brought  out  by  broiling.  Served  with  maitre 
d'holel  butter,  lemon,  fried  parsley  and  fried  pota- 
toes. 

PONCHE  (Fr.)— Punch. 

POP-CORN— A  small  variety  of  Indian  corn ;  the 
grains  burst  and  turn  inside  out  when  parched. 
There  is  a  great  difference  in  corn,  and  those  who 
prepare  it  for  sale  test  every  sample  in  the  popper 
before  buying.  It  has  to  be  kept  a  year  before  thor- 
oughly dry.  A  bushel  of  shelled  corn  will  make 
nearly  4  barrels  of  popped  corn.  POP-CORN  BALLS- 
If  the  corn  is  to  be  worked  into  balls,  a  mixture  of 
sugar,  glucose  and  gum  is  poured  over  it,  a  handful 
is  taken  up  and  pressed  into  shape  like  a  snowball. 
The  red  pop-corn  balls  are  colored  with  thin  cochi- 
neal syrup  on  the  hands  of  the  operator.  POP-CORN 
CAKES — If  pop-corn  cakes  are  to  be  made,  the  corn 
is  moistened  with  hot  syrup  boiled  to  the  crack, 
pressed  out  into  sheets,  cut  into  sections  and  wrapped  j 
in  transparent  paper.  At  the  Centennial  Exposition  j 
the  company  received  $7,000  for  the  exclusive  right 
to  sell  pop -corn.  CANDIED  POP-CORN- — Is  made  the 
same  way  as  comfits  and  sugared  almonds  by  stir- 
ring it  over  a  gentle  fire  in  a  candy-kettle,  pouring 
syrup  over  it  from  time  to  time  till  it  becomes  lightly 
coated,  the  coloring  being  in  the  syrup.  GROUND 
.POP-CORN  FOR  BREADING— Croquettes  egged  and 
breaded  with  ground  pop-corn  have  an  appearance  j 
like  snow  covering  a  brown  surface,  as  the  pop-corn 
does  not  take  color  readily. 

POPOVERS— Domestic  name  for  a  very  light 
muffin  made  of  2  eggs,  2  cups  milk,  2  cups  flour,  salt; 
a  tablespoonf  ul  or  two  of  melted  butter  may  be  added 
at  option,  but  is  not  essential.  The  eggs  whipped 
light  are  mixed  with  the  milk  and  flour,  the  batter 
baked  in  buttered  cups.  The  puffs  rise  high  and 
hollow.  Hot  for  breakfast.  (See  Albany  Cakts.) 

PORGIES— Small  fish  abundant  in  New  York 
markets. 

PORK— Roast  pork  should,  like  lamb,  be  well 
cooked,  carefully  and  regularly  baked;  onion  and 
apple  sauce  served  in  separate  tureens.  LEG  OF 
PORK— Laid  in  salt  for  4  days,  boiled  until  nearly 
done,  baked  to  finish  in  a  pan  with  stock  and  chili 
vinegar;  gravy  made  in  the  pan.  PORK  CHOPS,  AP- 
PLE SAUCE — Chops  breaded  and  broiled,  paper  frills 
put  on  ends  of  the  bones,  to  ornament  and  to  handle 
them  at  the  table  by;  apple  sauce  in  the  dish,  and 
chops  around.  PORK  COLLOPS-  -Neat  slices  of  cold 
roast  leg  of  pork  seasoned,  broiled;  served  with 
mixture  of  onions  and  apples  stewed  together  with 
wine.  PORK  FRITURE — Salt-pork  slices  soaked  in 
skimmed  milk  8  hours,  egged,  rolled  in  flour  and 
fried.  SELLE  DS  PORC  FRAIS— Saddle  of  fresh  pork. 
GIGOT  DE  PORC  A  L'ALLBMANDE — Leg  of  salt  pork 
boiled,  with  stewed  red  cabbage,  carrots  and  tur- 


POR 

nips,  and  poivrade  sauce.  CARRE  DE  PORC  A  LA, 
RKMOULADE — Roast  rack  of  pork,  with  rernoulade 
sauce  with  cl.o.iped  pickles.  PE-IIT  SALE  At'X 
CHOUX — Salt  pork  with  cabbage.  COTELETTES  DE 
PORC  A  LA  ROBERT—  Pork  chops  with  Robert  sauce. 
COTELETTES  DE  PORC  A  LA  BOLOGNAISE — Breaded 
pork  chops  with  grated  Parmesan  mixed  with  the 
crumbs,  fried;  served  with  a  garnish  in  center,  of 
mushrooms,  tongue,  and  short  pieces  of  macaroni  in 
tomato  sauce.  FILETS  DE  PORC  A  LA  MARECHA~E- 
Are  pork  tenderloins  cut  in  round  slices,  Dreaded  and 
broiled;  served  -with  potato  balls.  FILETS  DE  PORK 
A  LA  HANOVERIENNE  —  Pork  tenderloins  larded 
braised  and  glazed,  dressed  in  a  circle  on  dish  with 
stewed  white  pickled  cabbage  in  center,  and  brown 
sauce.  Can  have  spinach  or  apple  sauce  instead  of 
cabbage,  and  name  according.  ESCALOPES  DE  Pi  RK 
A  LA  LYONNATSE — Pork  tenderloin  cut  slantwise  in 
oval  slices,  breaded,  fried,  dressed  in  a  circle,  cov- 
ered with  Soubise  puree  of  onions,  bread-crumbs  on 
top,  and  browned.  ESCALOPES  DE  PORC  A  L'INDI- 
ENNE — Tenderloin  slices  with  curry  sauce.  BROILED 
PORK  TENDERLOINS — (/)  Split  open,  flattened,  sea- 
soned with  salt,  pepper,  powdered  sage;  broiled; 
served  with  a  sauce  made  of  the  gravy  from  fried 
sausages.  (2)  Served  with  fried  onions,  (j)  Served 
with  fried  apples.  (4)  Served  with  butter  and  fried 
sweet  potatoes,  (j)  Served  with  maitre  d' hotel  but- 
ter and  potato  chips.  ENTRECOTE  OF  PORK— Pork 
steak  stuffed,  rolled  up  and  roasted  or  braised;  onion 
sauce.  GRENADINS  OF  PORK — Same  as  grenadins 
of  veal.  POTTED  PORK — Pork  tenderloins  cut  small 
and  pounded  in  a  mortar,  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  sage  and  rosemary,  or  with  spiced  salt; 
mixed  with  some  hot  butter;  packed  in  a  jar  and 
baked  in  slow  oven;  pressed  down  again  when  done, 
and  grease  drained  off;  eaten  cold  or  in  sandwiches. 
(See  Backbone,  Head  Cheese,  Echinee,  Pig,  Saus- 
ages.) 

PORPOISE— Sea-fish  of  the  smooth-skinned  sort. 
"Schools"  of  porpoises  sport  in  shallow  water  near 
the  shore  and  sometimes  in  advance  of  a  vessel  for 
days  at  a  time.  They  are  captured  for  their  oil. 
PORPOISE  STEAK — "The  new  delicacy  in  favor  be- 
yond the  Atlantic  is  porpoise  steak.  The  world  is 
overhauling  its  menu,  and  hunting  up  new  di-shes. 
Some  one  has  suddenly  thought  of  the  porpoise,  or, 
as  the  Americans  call  it,  the  sea-hog,  and  the  result 
is  a  flesh-food  described  as  exquisitely  tender  and 
tasty,  with  a  grain  as  red  and  juicy  as  the  best  cut  in 
a  fillet-steak  or  sirloin.  In  flavor  the  porpoise  re- 
sembles venison,  and  we  are  pretty  sure  to  hear  of  it 
in  London  before  long.  If  it  is  as  good  as  reported, 
it  should  certainly  take  its  place  on  the  mf/itis  of 
marine  hotels."  DOLPHIN  MEAT— "According  to  a 
Transatlantic  paper,  the  flesh  of  the  porpoise  is  sold 
in  Philadelphia  as  a  substitute  for  beef,  under  the 
name  of  'dolphin  meat.'  Ic  is  described  as  red,  juicy, 
tender,  fine-grained,  and  of  very  pleasant  flavor." — 
"In  the  fifteenth  century  porpoises  were  brought 
whole  to  table,  and  were  eaten  with  mustard." — 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


407 


FOR 

PORPOISE  ON  THE  COALS — An  ancient  bill  of  fare 
found  in  the  British  museum  mentions  among  the 
courses  of  a  grand  dinner  "Porpoise  with  Peas" 
and  "Porpoise  Roasted  on  the  Coals."  There  is  a 
record  of  Henry  III  ordering  the  sheriffs  of  London 
to  purchase  for  him  100  pieces  of  the  best  whale,  and 
two  porpoises.  Henry  VIII  gave  occasion  for  some 
witticisms  by  his  fondness  for  this  archtype  of  obes- 
ity; if  it  was  too  large  for  a  horse-load,  an  extra  al- 
lowance was  made  to  the  purveyor.  In  Norway  a 
delicate  caviare  has  been  made  from  its  eggs. 

PORRIDGE — Proper  name  of  "mush,"  which  is 
but  a  provincialism.  Made  of  oatmeal,  cornmeal, 
graham  meal,  fine  hominy  or  grits,  ground  rice, 
farina,  graham  farina,  cracked  wheat,  rolled  oats, 
etc.  Some  of  these  need  to  be  soaked  in  water  for 
some  hours  before  cooking.  They  are  all  made  into 
porridge  by  simply  boiling  in  the  requisite  quantity 
of  water,  and  best  if  in  a  double  kettle  or  bain-marie. 

PORTERHOUSE  CUT— The  best  part  of  the 
loin  of  beef;  the  portion  between  the  last  rib  and  the 
hip  bone.  It  is  an  American  specialty,  the  name 
having  originated  in  a  hotel  known  as  the  Porter 
House. 

PORTERHOUSE  STEAK  — Steaks  from  the 
porterhouse  cut  of  beef.  They  consist  of  a  portion 
of  the  fillet  or  under-cut,  a  portion  of  the  top  loin; 
portion  of  the  spine  bone  and  little  of  tjie  flank  being 
therefore  the  best  of  the  beef.  The  steaks  are  small  ', 
and  narrow  at  the  rib  end,  and  broader  towards  the 
butt. 

POSSUM— See  Offossum. 

POTAGE— See  Soups.  Potage,  like  English  pot- 
tage, signifies  a  thick  soup,  and  consomme  a  thin  or 
clear.  Soup  includes  all  descriptions. 

POT -AU-FEU— Fire  pot;  the  French  national 
soup.  POT-AU-FEU  BOURGEOIS — "The  French  na- 
tional dish  is  unquestionably  the  world-famed pot- 
au-feii,  and  there  is  hardly  a  Frenchman,  rich  or 
poor,  who  does  not  partake  of  that  savory  and  nour- 
ishing preparation  at  least  once  a  week.  This  soup, 
simple  as  it  is,  cannot  be  made  properly  anywhere 
but  in  France,  and  the  assertion,  strange  as  it  seems, 
will  be  corroborated  by  all  who  have  tasted  it.  The 
meat  that  has  been  used  to  make  the  soup  is  eaten 
afterwards,  in  conjunction  with  the  vegetables  that 
were  boiled  in  the  pot.  Thefr>t-au-jeii  is  made  gen- 
eral!}' in  an  earthen  vessel,  used  only  for  the  purpose. 
The  meat  is  put  in  cold  water  with  a  little  salt,  and 
set  on  the  fire.  When  the  liquid  begins  to  boil,  the 
pot  is  drawn  back,  and  the  contents  allowed  to  sim- 
mer as  gently  as  possible  for  4  hours.  The  quantity 
of  meat  employed  is  i  Ib.  to  i  qt.  of  water.  When 
the  ebullition  begins,  care  must  be  taken  to  remove 
all  the  scum  that  rises  to  the  surface.  The  vegeta- 
bles consist  of  carrots,  turnips,  onions,  leeks,  celery, 
and  cabbages.  A  brown  onion  (pignon  brule)  boiled 
in  the  pot  improves  the  flavor  as  well  as  the  color  of 
the  soup.  A  few  minutes  before  serving  the  soup 
the  meat  is  taken  out  of  the  pot,  and  the  broth  is 


POT 

strained  through  a  very  fine  strainer  into  the  soup- 
tureen,  which  should  contain  some  very  thin  slices 
I  of  stale  bread."  CROUTE-AU-POT— "Such  is  the  rec- 
i  ipe  for  the  pot-au-jeu  bourgeois,  as  it  is  .served  in 
every  .small  French  family ;  but  if  required  for  a  din- 
ner recherche  it  changes  its  na:-. •_•  on  the  menu  and  is 
called  croute-au-fot.  In  thi>  Litter  case  a  fowl  and 
a  knuckle  of  veal  are  added  to  make  the  broth ;  the 
vegetables  are  cut  of  an  even  form,  and  the  slices  of 
bread  are  replaced  by  the  crust  of  2  or  3  French  rolls 
cut  the  size  and  shape  of  half  a  pigeon's  egg.  These 
crusts  are  fried  in  some  of  the  clear  grease  skimmed 
from  the  top  of  the  broth,  and  are  handed  round  on 
a  plate  when  the  soup  is  served."  PouLE-AU-Por — • 
"King  Henry  IV  was  alluding  to  the  pot-an-feu 
when  he  said,  in  his  manifesto  to  the  people  of 
France,  that  if  he  !:ved  long  enough,  his  ambition 
was  to  see  every  peasant  in  his  kingdom  prosperous 
enough  to  be  able  to  have  a  fowl  in  his  pot  every 
Sunday." — 'Experienced  housewives  insist  that  any 
contact  with  metal  is  sure  to  spoil  the  flavor;  it  is 
the  earthen  pot,  well  seasoned,  on  which  everything 
depends.  In  this  earthen  ppt,  then,  the  French  cook 
will  place  only  the  best  and  freshest  meat,  the  ten- 
derest  and  most  delicate  vegetables;  onions  and  pep- 
per, those  stumbling-blocks  of  the  inexperienced 
cook,  are  eschewed  altogether,  a  young  leek  sup- 
planting the  onion  in  the  pot-au-feu,  at  least 
with  dainty  feeders.  Xo  single  flavor  should  pre- 
dominate." 

POTATO  — "The  potato  is  not  in  France  the 
homely  esculent  that  it  is  on  this,  side  the  ocean. 
There  are  as  many  ways  of  preparing  it  as  there  were 
in  Goldsmith's  time  of  cooking  a  nettle-top.  Pota- 
toes are  only  admitted  en  robe  de  c:  ambre,  that  is  to 
say,  in  their  jackets,  to  the  midday  meal,  and  then 
on  unceremonious  occasions.  They  chiefly  figure  at 
dejeuners  intimes,  or  dejeuners  taken  at  restaurants 
where  the  bifleck  aux famines  and  la  cotelette  a  la 
puree  de  pomme  de  terre  are  in  great  favor."  — 
POMMES  GEORGETTE — Specialty  of  M.  Joseph,  of 
the  Cafe  Paillard.  "These  are  potatoes  en  surprise. 
I  take  a  potato  and  hollow  it  out,  filling  the  hollow 
with  a  salpicon  of  shrimp-tails  drenched  in  a  bisque 
sauce  made  of  the  heads  and  pounded  bodies  of  the 
shrimps.  Then  I  cover  the  potato  up  and  bake  it  in 
cinders.  It  comes  to  table  baked  and  burnt.  I  called 
it  Georgette,  because  I  created  it  on  the  day  of  the 
first  night  of  Victorien  Sardou's  play  of  that  name 
at  the  Vaudeville  Theatre.  Sardou's  play  ran  only 
ninety  nights.  My  Georgette  has  had  an  unlimited 
run."  POMMES  DE  TERKE  AUX  CEurs — Specialty. 
"For  serving  with  cold  meat,  etc.,  potatoes  cooked 
after  the  following  recipe,  given  me  by  a  Parisian 
chef,  are  very  suitable.  The  recipe  is  for  famines  de 
terre  atix  xufs.  Put  a  good-sized  lump  of  butter  into 
your  pan;  as  soon  as  it  is  hot,  brown  some  onions  in 
it.  Cut  some  cold  potatoes,  which  have  been  boiled' 
in  their  skins,  and  afterwards  peeled,  into  slices. 
Throw  these.slices  into  the  pan.  Spread  over  them 
the  well-whipped  yellow  of  two  eggs.  Salt,  pepper. 


408 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


POT 

r 

and  serve  when  your  potatoes  have  taken  a  nice 
brown  color  on  each  side."  POMMES  HONGROISES- 
"I  discovered  these  to  be  the  pommes  a  la  lyonnaise 
— slices  of  boiled  potato  fried  with  onion  and  baked 
in  the  oven.  At  this  restaurant,  however,  the  pota- 
toes are  sprinkled  with  a  little  grated  cheese  before 
they  are  put  into  the  oven.  A  decided  improvement. 
The  garnish  of  minced  parsley  remains,  of  course, 
indispensable."  POMMES  A  LA  MAIRE — Specialty. 
Potatoes  cut  in  rounds,  boiled  until  barely  done  in 
salted  water,  drained,  put  into  cream  which  has  been 
reduced  to  a  state  of  condensed  richness  by  evapora- 
tion in  a  steam  vessel.  "It  is  the  reduction  of  the 
cream  to  one-half  its  volume  that  is  the  special  and 
essential  feature  of  the  recipe  for  potatoes  a  la 
Maire,  and  it  is  to  this  special  treatment  they  owe 
that  excellence  which  constitutes  them  the  leading 
specialty  of  Maire's  Restaurant."  HASH  CREAM 
POTATOES — Hash  cream  potatoes  is  an  acceptable 
breakfast  dish  if  hot  potatoes  are  used;  but  cold  po- 
tatoes have  a  disagreeable  flavor,  which  spoils  the 
dish.  Cut  three  warm  boiled  potatoes  into  small 
even  pieces,  add  them  to  half  a  pint  of  boiled  cream 
and  a  saltspoonful  of  salt.  Put  the  mixture  into  a 
small  tin  or  baking  dish;  strew  lightly  over  the  top 
a  thin  layer  of  bread-crumbs  or  grated  cheese;  add  a 
pat  of  butter,  and  bake  a  delicate  brown.  ANNA 
POTATOES — A  specialty  at  Delmonico's  renowned 
Xew  York  restaurants.  Cut  very  thin  slices  right 
across  the  largest  potatoes;  lay  the  slices  in  flat  la}'- 
ers  on  a  small  plate  that  will  bear  the  heat  of  the 
oven.  Spread  fresh  butter  freely  over  the  potatoes; 
then  add  another  layer,  and  so  on  until  the  potatoes 
are  about  four  inches  high.  "Delmonico's"  recipe 
gives  %  Ib.  fresh  butter  to  2  large  potatoes.  Bake 
until  the  potatoes  are  tender,  about  half  an  hour,  in 
a  quick  oven.  POTATOES  A  LA  BONNE  BOUCHE— 
Slice  some  boiled  potatoes;  chop  a  blade  of  shallot, 
also  a  little  parsley  very  fine;  place  them  in  a  stewpan 
with  3  oz.  of  butter  and  a  pinch  of  mixed  sweet 
herbs;  let  simmer  slowly  5  minutes,  then  put  in  the 
potatoes,  sprinkle  some  seasoning  over  them,  and  let 
simmer  gently  for  10  minutes,  occasionally  stirring 
to  prevent  burning.  Just  before  serving  squeeze  the 
juice  of  i  lemon  over  the  potatoes.  POTATO  CRO- 
QUETTES—  Steamed  dry  potatoes  with  salt,  little 
butter  and  yolks  added ;  mashed ;  rolled  to  shape  of 
bottle  corks,  egged,  rolled  in  cracker  dust,  fried  in 
hot  lard;  served  with  fish  and  entrees.  POTATOES  A 
LA  DUCHESSE — (/)  Same  preparation  as  potato  cro- 
quettes; made  into  thick  roll,  sliced  off,  slices  on  a 
floured  board  patted  into  leaf  shapes,  marked  with 
back  of  a  knife,  washed  over  with  egg,  baked  light 
color;  served  with  fish  or  entrees.  (2)  Large  cold 
boiled  potatoes  sliced,  cut  with  a  wetted  tin  cutter, 
salted,  egged  over,  baked.  POTATOES  A  LA  VIC- 
TORIA— Same  preparation  as  potato  croquettes  made 
into  round  balls,  egged  over,  baked  light  color  in 
quick  oven.  POTATOES  A  LA  GASTRONOME — Pota- 
toes cut  raw  into  shape  of  bottle  corks  with  a  tube 
cutter,  boiled  barely  done  in  salted  water,  drained 


POT 

out,  finished  by  frying  in  hot  lard  quickly,  light 
color,  dredged  with  fine  salt  and  parsley  dust.  PO- 
TATOES A  LA  MONACO— Potato  cut  raw  into  shape  of 
silver  half-dollars  or  little  thicker,  cooked  same  as 
a  la  gastronome.  POTATOES  A  LA  JULIENNE— Cut 
raw  into  very  fine  shreds  like  straws,  fried  quickly 
in  hot  lard,  dredged  with  salt  and  parsley  dust. 
CURLY  POTATOES— Cut  raw  with  a  kind  of  paring 
machine  into  long  spirals,  fried  by  throwing  into 
kettle  of  hot  lard;  salt  and  parsley  dust.  POTATOES 
A  LA  SERPENTI:;E — An  instrument  like  a  cork-screw 
with  auger  in  center  goes  through  a  potato  and 
makes  a  cord  of  potato  like  the  strand  of  an  un- 
twisted rope;  these  smooth  spiral  cords  are  fried  as 
usual ;  served  as  garnish  to  fish  or  entrees.  POMMES 
A  L'AXGLAISE — Boiled  in  their  skins,  peeled,  cut  in 
quarters  if  large,  shaken  up  in  a  hot  dish  with  soft 
butter,  salt  and  parsley  dust;  sent  in  hot  with  the 
butter  poured  over.  POMMES  DE  TERRE  EN  CHE- 
MISE—  Potatoes  in  their  jackets.  POMMES  A  LA 
MAITRE  D'HOTEL — Boiled,  cut  in  quarters  in  hot 
mai  re  d'liotel  sauce.  POMMES  A  LA  CREME  AU 
GRATIN-  Boiled  sliced  in  white  sauce  with  Parmesan 
cheese,  bread-crumbs  on  top,  browned  in  the  oven. 
POMMES  AU  LARD— Stewed  potatoes  with  bits  of 
bacon  in  the  sauce.  POMMES  A  LA  CREME — Pota- 
toes in  cream  sauce;  same  as  "hash  cream  potatoes" 
above.  POMMES  SAUTES — Boiled  potatoes  cut  in 
slices,  fried  in  a  frying  pan  with  butter  or  sausage 
fat,  salt,  white  pepper,  no  onions.  POMMES  A  LA 
MACAIRE  — "Shoestring"  fried  potatoes,  made  by 
cutting  potatoes  raw  into  one  unbroken  string; 
there  are  machines  for  it.  POMMES  SOUFFLEES — 
Baked  in  their  skins,  the  potato  mixed  with  butter, 
Parmesan  cheese,  eggs,  salt,  put  back  into  the  skins, 
set  on  end  in  a  pan  and  browned.  POMMES  FAR- 
CIES A  L'ITALIENNE— Like  soufflees  preceding,  but 
the  potato  pulp  mixed  with  rice  and  cheese.  POM- 
MES XOUVELLES  A  LA  CREME  —  New  potatoes  in 
cream  sauce.  POTATO  QUENELLES  —  The  potato 
croquette  preparation  in  small  balls,  rolled  in  plenty 
of  flour  and  fried  quickly  before  they  burst,  as  they 
will  if  the  fat  be  not  hot  enough.  PUREE  DE  POM  - 
MES  A  LA  MARIA — Mashed  potatoes  quite  soft  with 
cream  and  butter.  POMMES  EN  SURPRISE — "Be- 
fore I  close  I'll  give  publicity  to  a  tasty  recipe  for 
cooking  a  potato  (and  "fixings")  which  reaches  me 
from  Newfoundland:  Bake  large  potatoes  in  their 
skins  till  three-quarters  done,  nearly  cut  off  one 
end;  with  a  fork  hollow  out  the  center  of  the  potato 
and  fill  in  the  hollopr  with  a  shaving  of  broiled 
bacon,  peppered  and  tightly  rolled;  close  the  potato 
by  the  lid  end,  bake  for  5  minutes."  POMMES  A  LA 
BIONON  —  Boiled  potatoes  in  their  skins,  peeled 
when  cold;  inside  hollowed  and  filled  with  mutton 
mince  highly  sea.-oned,  end  closed  with  piece  of 
potato,  browned  in  butter  in  the  oven.  POMMES  A 
LA  REITZ—  French  fried  potatoes.  POMMES  A  LA 
BORDELAISE — Cut  thin  like  chips,  fried  soft,  taken 
up  into  frying  pan  and  finished  with  butter,  onion, 
parsley  fried  together.  POMMES  A  LA  BRABAN- 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


409 


POT 

CONNE— Dish  of  baked  mashed  potatoes  in  which 
parboiled  onions  and  parsley  and  cheese  are  mixed; 
browned  in  the  oven.  POMMEB  A  LA  VILLAGEOISE 
—Hash-cream  potatoes.  POMMES  A  LA  BRETONNE 
— Cold  boiled,  in  blocks  fried  with  onions;  brown 
sauce.  POMMES  A  LA  COLBERT— Cold  boiled,  in 
blocks  simmered  in  brown  sauce  with  parsley. 
POMMES  A  LA  XAVARROISE  —  Raw,  cut  in  large 
blocks,  parboiled,  fried  light  color  in  oil.  POMMES 
A  LA  ROUENNAISE — Preparation  as  for  potato  cro- 
quettes; in  very  small  balls  dipped  in  batter  and 
fried  like  fritters.  POMMES  CROUSTADES  A  LA  RE- 
GENTE — Potato  croquettes,  one  end  cut  off  and  part 
of  inside  hollowed  out,  filled  with  patty  mixture  of 
lobster,  etc.,  end  replaced,  served  standing'  upright. 
POMMES  A  LA  HOLLANDAISE — Cut  raw  into  shape 
of  sections  of  orange,  boiled  barely  done,  drained, 
shaken  up  with  butter,  salt  and  parsley  dust.  LONG 
BRANCH  POTATOES  —  Long  strings  cut  with  ma- 
chine, fried.  FRIED  PCFF  POTATOES  —  French 
fried,  cooked  slowly  while  the  fat  gradually  cools, 
-drained,  thrown  at  once  into  very  hot  fat  and 
browned.  They  puff  out;  to  be  served  as  soon  as 
done.  SARATOGA  CHIPS  —  Sliced  raw  extremely 
thin  with  a  machine,  washed  and  steeped  in  water 
for  the  starch  to  settle,  drained,  fried  curly  and  crisp 
in  plenty  of  hot  lard;  fine  salt  dredged  over.  "At 
the  bakery  it  was  learned  that  the  concern  has  a 
monopoly  of  the  business'in  this  city,  and  that  there 
are  only  three  makers  of  Saratoga  chips  in  the  coun- 
try. Chips  are  an  American  institution,  and  are 
not  known  abroad  save  from  some  small  lots  that 
have  been  exported.  The  process  of  manufactur 
ing  is  in  part  a  secret.  The  potatoes  are  peeled  and 
sliced  by  machinery.  They  are  washed  and  then 
dried  between  muslin  cloths.  If  they  were  now 
fried,  the  amount  of  starch  that  they  contain  would 
make  them  brown,  and  the  secret  of  the  business  is 
to  remove  all  of  the  starch,  so  that  the  chips  will  be 
perfectly  white.  When  this  is  done  they  are  put 
into  the  hot  grease,  and  come  out  curled  and  crisp 
and  with  the  delicious  flavor  that  has  made  them 
famous  the  world  over."  BROILED  POTATOES  — 
Cold  boiled  or  raw  potatoes  either  can  be  broiled 
and  buttered  while  broiling.  FRENCH  FRIED  PO- 
TATOES— Raw,  cut  in  12  or  more  strips  lengthwise, 
throivn  into  hot  lard,  fried  ligtit  brown  and  drv, 
fine  salt.  STUFFED  POTATOES  —  Baked  in  their 
skins,  part  of  inside  removed,  seasoned  with  cheese 
and  butter,  put  back  and  end  replaced.  POTATOES 
A  LA  PAKISIE.NNE — Potato  balls  scooped  out  of  raw 
potatoes  with  a  "potato  spoon"  in  size  of  cherries, 
fried  in  hot  lard.  POTATOES  A  LA  CONDE— Bails 
twice  as  large  as  the  preceding,  boiled  barely  done, 
finished  by  frying  very  light  color  in  hot  lard;  fine 
salt  and  parsley  dust.  BROWNED  POTATOES  A 
I-'ANGLAISE — Balls  size  of  crab  apples  formed  with 
the  largest  "potato  spoon"  to  imitate  new  potatoes, 
but  all  precisely  alike,  parboiled,  finished  in  a  pan 
with  roast  meat  fat  in  the  oven.  POMMES  A  LA 
BREBANT — Large  dice  cut  from  cold  boilded  pota- 


POT 

toes,  sauteed  in  f rying  pan  with  minced  onion ;  salt 
and  parsley.  LYONNAISE  POTATOES — Sliced  cold 
boiled  potatoes  in  a  frying  pan  with  minced  onion 
in  butter  or  fat;  salt,  pepper  and  chopped  parsley 
added  while  frying.  POTATOES  A  LA  MILITAIRE — 
Croquette  preparation  in  small  balls  fried.  More 
of  same  formed  in  a  tin  mould  like  a  conical  tent 
and  the  center  of  it  filled  with  minced  chicken;  the 
tent  turned  out  in  center  of  dish,  egged  over, 
browned,  and  cannon  balls  piled  around  it  with 
decorations  of  green. 

POTATO  SOUPS— See  Soups. 

POTATO  SALADS— See  Salads. 

POTATOES  IN  SWEET  DISHES  —  Noth- 
ing in  the  domestic  history  of  the  potato  is  more 
curious  than  the  slow  degrees  by  which  cooks  came 
to  treat  the  tuber  as  a  savory  and  not  as  a  sweet  dish 
— as  an  accompaniment  to  the  strongest  meats  in- 
stead of  a  kind  of  confectioner}'.  Houghton,  writ- 
ing in  1681,  speaks  of  the  potato  as  a  pleasant  food 
which  may  be  eaten  boiled  or  roasted  with  butter 
and  sugar.  That  he  means  our  common  potato  is 
plain,  because  in  the  same  paragraph  he  alludes  to 
another  and  longer  kind,  the  sweet  potato,  or  "bat- 
tata."  Eleven  years  before  Houghton's  "  Collec- 
tions" appeared,  however,  Mistress  Hannah  Wollej* 
had  dedicated  to  the  "Truly  Virtuous  Mrs.  Grace 
Buzby,  daughter  of  the  late  Sir  Henry  Gary,  Knight 
Banneret,  and  wife  of  Mr.  Robert  Buzby,  Gentle- 
man and  Woollendraper  in  London,"  her  "  Queen- 
like  Closet  or  Rich  Cabinet  stored  with  all  manner 
of  Rare  Receipts  in  Preserving,  Candying,  and 
Cookery."  The  worthy  Hannah  has  a  solitary  re- 
ference to  the"Solanum  Tuberosum":  it  is  a  rec- 
ipe for  making  a  potato-pie.  You  are  to  have  your 
pie-dish  and  crust  ready  and  "lay  in  butter,"  and 
then  "your  potatoes  boiled  very  tender,"  with  whole 
spice  and  marrow,  dates,  and  the  yolks  of  hard  eggs, 
blanched  almonds,  pistachio  nuts,  "candied  peels  of 
citron,  orange  and  lemon."  Then  the  crust  of  the 
potato- pie  is  to  be  closed,  and,  when  baked,  the  dish 
is  to  be  served  with  wine,  butter  and  sugar.  Writ- 
ing nearly  eighty  years  afterwards,  Mrs.  Hannah 
Glasse,  in  her  "Art  of  Cookery,"  prescribes  among 
the  ingredients  of  a  potato  pudding,  eggs,  sugar, 
butter,  nutmeg,  currants,  half  a  pint  of  sack,  and  a 
pint  of  cream.  POTATO  CAKE — This  is  very  simple; 
steamed  potato  mashed  up,  a  little  flour  and  butter 
worked  in,  with  sugar,  currants,  sultanas,  and  chop- 
ped peel.  Form  it  into  a  rather  soft  dough.  Roll 
it  out  to  the  size  of  a  dinner-plate,  and  about  an  inch 
and  a  half  or  two  inches  thick.  Place  it  on  a  greased 
baking  sheet,  mark  it  across  with  the  back  of  the 
knife  into  eight  or  sixteen  divisions;  wash  the  sur- 
face over  with  egg,  bake,  slip  it  on  to  a  plate,  dust 
over  with  pulverised  sugar,  and  serve  hot.  AMERI- 
CAN POTATO  PIE — Steamed  potatoes  mashed,  mixed 
with  butter,  sugar,  eggs,  nutmeg  and  sherry,  baked 
like  a  custard  in  a  pie  plate  lined  with  paste,  no  top 
crust,  fine  sugar  over  when  done.  (See  Smeet  Pota- 
toes.) 


410 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


POT 

POTATO  PASTY— A  meat  pie  having  a  bottom 
and  top  crust  of  mashed  potatoes  instead  of  flour 
paste. 

POTATO  FLOUR— Potato  flour  is  extensively 
manufactured  in  Germany,  and  is  used  by  sausage 
makers,  bakers,  confectioners,  and  cooks  for  pow- 
dering purposes.  Weaving  establishments  use  it  to 
give  their  goods  a  glossy  appearance,  and  to  size  the 
threads  in  the  woof.  It  is  also  used  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  starch,  potato  sugar,  and  white  syrup. 

POTATO  STARCH— The  potato  starch  which 
settles  at  the  bottom  of  the  tub  of  water  in  which 
large  quantities  of  Saratoga  chip  potatoes  are  steeped 
is  saleable  to  candy  makers.  It  may  be  washed  over 
again  in  clear  water  as  starch  does  not  dissolve  in 
water  that  is  cold;  when  settled  again  the  water 
can  be  poured  off  and  the  starch  then  dried  and 
powdered.  It  is  used  in  shallow  trays  to  receive 
the  imprints  of  fancy  bon-bons  and  creams,  these 
being  the  moulds  into  which  the  new-made  candy 
is  poured. 

POTATO  POISOX— "  No  one  should  buy  their 
potatoes  of  grocerymen  who  let  them  stand  in  front 
of  their  stores  in  the  sun.  Potatoes  belong  to  the 
f  Solanum'  family,  of  which  the  deadly  nightshade 
is  one  of  its  full  brothers.  All  branches  of  the  fami- 
ly contain  more  or  less  of  that  poisonous  narcotic 
called  'solanine.'  The  bulb,  or  potato,  contains  the 
least  of  this,  unless  they  are  exposed  to  the  sun, 
which  rapidly  develops  this  element."  Potatoes 
which  have  been  so  exposed  have  an  acrid,  bitter 
taste  and  bite  the  palate  like  mustard.  But  they  are 
not  past  recovery.  Let  them  be  buried  in  the  earth 
two  feet  deep  for  several  weeks  and  they  come  out 
equal  to  newly-dug  tubers,  well-flavored  and  whole- 
some. 

POTATO  SPIRIT— We  are  told  by  the  French 
authorities,  and  we  have  no  reason  to  doubt  the 
veracity  of  their  statements,  that  nearly  one-half  of 
the  brandy  imported  into  Her  Imperial  Majesty's 
British  domains  is  nothing  more  or  less  than  potato 
spirit — one  of  the  very  worst  and  fiery  of  spirits, 
heretofore  supposed  only  to  be  used  by  absinthe- 
makers  of  the  most  unprincipled  type.  The  modus 
operandi  of  its  preparation  for  the  British  market  is 
somewhat  similar  to  the  treatment  employed  in  the 
making  of  sawdust  brandy  from  the  sawpit  refuse, 
and  the  dust  of  pine  and  fir  trees.  The  potato  un- 
dergoes treatment  with  sulphuric  acid  and  water  to 
develop  or  change  the  dextrin  into  grape  sugar 
This,  after  many  hours'  boiling,  is  mixed  with  a  cer- 
tain proportion  of  lime,  which  causes  a  precipitate, 
and  destroys  or  changes  the  sulphuric  acid  taste  and 
qualities.  It  is  then  fermented  with  sound  malt 
leaven  foraboutthree  days,  when  it  is  distilled,  giv- 
ing an  abundant  yield  of  pure  spirit  of  the  strongest 
and  most  virulent  type. 

POTIRONS  (Fr.)— Vegetable  marrows;  same  as 
giraumons. 


PRA 

POT  HERBS— The  soup  bunch  sold  by  market 
gardeners. 

POTTED  MEATS— They  are  of  two  classes. 
(i)  The  pasted  meats  like  the  potted  tongue,  ham, 
etc.,  sold  in  cans  at  the  fancy  grocery  stores.  (2) 
Hot  or  cold  meats  cooked  by  slow  baking  in  a 
Covered  jar,  same  as  English  jugged  meats.  (See 
Potted  Hare,  Jugged  Meat  f.) 

POTTED  CHAR—  "While  you  can  obtain  pot- 
ted char  in  London,  do  not  dream  of  a  journey  to 
Worcester  for  the  sake  of  lampreys.  This  charm- 
ing fish,  the  poisson  rouge  of  St.  Evremond,  is 
without  question  the  most  exquisite  breakfast  lux- 
ury we  possess;  it  stands  far  in  advance  of  all  pot- 
ted things,  and  our  minor  poets  should  lay  the  fact 
to  heart  that  it  was  after  a  meal  of  charthat  Words- 
worth wrote  his  "Ode  to  Immortality" — fit  product 
of  the  ethereal  feast." 

POULE-AU-POT  SOCIETY  — Association  of 
Paris  hotel  and  restaurant  keepers  for  social  pur- 
poses, the  name  having  reference  to  the  national 
soup. 

POULE-AU-POT— Chicken  pot;  the  richer  pot- 
au-feu.  (See  Pot- au- Feu.) 

POULET  (Fr.)— Pullet. 

POULETTE,  SAUCE— Cream-colored,  made  of 
broth  or  strained  chicken  liquor  thickened  with  flour 
and  butter  and  then  with  yolks.  Parsley  and  lemon 
juice  to  finish.  It  is  Allemande  sauce  with  parsley. 

POULARD  (Fr.)— Female  capon. 

POUND  CAKE— See  Madeira,  Geitoise.  The 
same  sort  made  of  i  Ib.  sugar,  %  Ib.  butter,  10  eggs, 
i  Ib.  flour.  Pound  cake  is  the  familiar  American 
term  while  the  other  names  and  variations  of  quality 
are  little  known. 

.POUSSIN  (Fr.)— Spring  chicken.  PETITS  POLS- 
SINS — Very  young  chickens. 

PRAIRIE  HEX— Ruffed  grouse.  For  ways  of 
cooking  seegrouse.  The  prairie  hen  is  abundant 
in  the  Western  states,  gathering  in  flocks  of  50  or 
more  in  the  neighborhood  of  corn  fields.  This  bird 
is  very  much  better  when  cooked  in  its  simplest 
manner  than  if  overseasoned  with  artificial  flavors. 
It  is  generally  served  in  the  restaurants  split  open 
and  broiled  like  a  chicken,  with  butter  and  currant 
jelly.  One  bird  is  generally  enough  for  two  por- 
tions if  full  grown.  However,  only  young  birds 
should  be  broiled,  the  old  ones  may  be  potted  or 
made  into  pies.  The  breast  of  the  prairie  hen  is  the 
principal  part  of  it,  and  is  very  solid  meat.  PRAI- 
RTE  HEN  PIE — Prairie  hens  are  very  good  in  a  pie. 
Choose  two  plump  birds,  pluck,  draw  and  wipe 
them;  cut  off  the  legs  at  the  first  joint,  and  remove 
the  heads;  season  them  inside  with  pepper,  salt, 
butter,  and  minced  parsley  mixed  together.  Line  a 
pie-dish  with  slioesof  ham  and  seasoning  of  pepper 
and  salt;  put  the  birds  into  the  dish,  add  more  slices 
of  ham,  pour  over  them  half  a  pint  of  good  beef 
stock;  line  the  edges  of  the  dish  with  puff  paste,  and 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


411 


PRA 

cover  over  with  it;  brush  over  with  yolk  of  egg, 
and  bake  in  a  not  too  fierce  oven.  ROAST  PRAIRIE 
HEN — "  Prairie  hens,  grey  hens,  black  game,  ptar- 
migan, and  capercailzie  are  in  season.  The  first 
named  are  excellent  eating,  and  better  plainly  roast- 
ed than  cooked  by  any  other  method." 

PRAIRIE  OYSTER— A  raw  egg  broken  in  a 
bar  glass,  vinegar  and  pepper  on  it,  taken  raw. 

PRAIRIE  DOG— "This  bold  gastronomist,  in- 
stead of  being  offended  at  the  idea,  thought  that 
he  would  see  what  prairie-dog  was  like.  He  shot 
two,  had  them  cooked,  and  liked  them  so  much  that 
he  got  through  the  bulk  of  the  brace  at  one  sitting. 
His  son,  he  says,  had  a  prejudice  against  eating 
dog,  but  he  overcame  his  prejudice  sufficiently  to 
taste  the  dish,  and  the  result  was  that  he  finished  it." 

PRAWNS  — A  larger  kind  of  shrimp.  The 
canned  shrimps  so-called  are  prawns.  These  grow 
to  an  extraordinary  size  on  the  coast  of  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  some  specimens  reaching  a  length  of  8  or  9 
inches  without  the  horns  and  being  large  enough  to 
cut  in  lengths  after  being  divested  of  their  shells. 
Prawns  can  be  cooked  in  a  variety  of  ways  and  are 
excellent  plain  to  eat  cold.  Nearly  all  the  ways  of 
preparing  lobsters  and  crayfish  for  the  table  are 
suitable  for  prawns,  as  in  patties,  pies,  salads,  as- 
pics, curries,  soups,  stews  and  gumbo.  (See  Cre- 
rettes,  C/ievreltes,  Crei-ettes-Boucs. 

PRETZELS — "After  many  inquiries,  I  have  at 
last  discovered  the  address  of  the  bakery  in  Paris 
which  supplies  such  brasseries  as  Dreher's,  Vetzel, 
etc.,  with  the  thirst-provoking  Bretzel.  It  is  a  firm 
of  Alsatian  origin,  the  founder  of  which  introduced 
this  insidious  pastry  into  Paris.  This  house  has  al- 
most exclusively  the  Bretzel  trade  in  its  hands,  and 
does  a  colossal  businees,  for  the  Bretzel  is  now  as 
popular  with  French  beer  drinkers  as  it  is  beyond 
the  Rhine.  Six  vans  are  continually  engaged  in  de- 
livery. The  firm  also  deals  in  ox  muzzle,  a  favorite 
specialty  for  salads,  Munster  chee  e,  and  black 
bread."  These  Bretzels  are  commonly  called  Pret- 
zels in  this  country.  They  are  made  of  common 
bread  dough  well  baked  as  if  for  crackers.  They 
are  dropped  first  into  boiling  lye,  when,  if  just 
proved  enough  they  sink  for  %  minute  and  then 
rise.  They  are  taken  out,  salt  sprinkled  over  them, 
and  then  baked. 

PRINTANIERE  (a  la)  —  With  young  spring 
vegetables,  asparagus  points  in  particular. 

PROFITEROLLES  —  One  of  the  three  or  four 
names  attached  to  the  hollow  puffs  popularly  known 
as  cream  puffs,  or  cream  cakes;  the  variations  in  the 
fillings  and  flavorings  are,  however,  numerous. 
The  profiterolles  are  small  like  walnuts  when  baked 
and  hollow,  and  are  either  served  in  soup  or  rolled 
in  syrup  and  chopped  almonds,  etc.  (See  Queen  Frit- 
ters.) 

PRUNES — French  plums,  well  known  in  the 
dried  state.  They  are  used  stewed  for  supper  fruit 


PUD 

and  can  be  made  into  puddings,  roly- polys,  pies, 
and  mixed  in  cakes. 

PRUNELLES — Small  prunes  of  an  acid  nature 
produced  in  California,  used  as  stewed  fruit. 

PTARMIGAN— The  white  grouse,  white  only 
in  winter.  Otherwise  called  spruce  grouse.  It  in- 
habits high,  mountainous  regions.  Its  flesh  tastes 
of  the  spruce  leaves  upon  which  it  feeds,  but  not 
unpleasantly.  Cooked  as  grouse  and  prairie  hens. 

PUDDINGS— A  number  of  the  old  standard  pud- 
dings can  be  found  described  under  the  respective  let- 
ters ;  the  list  to  follow  here  are  names  likely  to  be  met 
with  in  French  bills  of  fare.  WHENCE  COMES  PUD- 
DiNG-"English  'sweets'  have  an  acknowledged  place 
of  honor  in  the  science  halls  of  the  greatest  French 
chefs.  Le  pouding  is  'the  pudding,'  nothing  more, 
nothing  less;  English  by  its  name  and  English  by 
its  nature."  POUDING  AUX  POMMES— Apple  pud- 
ding of  alternate  layers  of  bread  crumbs  and 
stewed  apples.  POUDING  AUX  MAKRONS — Chest- 
nut pudding.  POUDING  AUX  FIGUES  —  Fig  pud- 
ding. POUDING  AU  Riz — Rice  pudding.  POUDIXG 
AU  GINGEMBRE— Ginger  pudding.  POUDING  AU 
CHOCOLAT — Made  of  sponge  cake  crumbled,  moist- 
ened with  raw  chocolate  custard,  steamed.  POU- 
DING AUX  CARAMEL  A  mould  or  individual  small 
moulds  are  coated  inside  with  cand)-  made  by  melt- 
ing sugar  over  the  fire  without  water;  the  moulds 
are  then  filled  with  strong  custard  or  other  suitable 
mixture  and  steamed.  When  turned  out  the  cara- 
mel coating  comes  with  it  and  serves  as  sauce,  as  it 
is  nearly  dissolved.  POUDING  A  LA  MARMELADE — 
A  marmalade  of  any  variety.  POUDING  AU  BISCUIT 
DE  SAVOIE— A  sponge  cake  pudding  with  brandy 
poured  into  it.  POUDING  AU  PAIN — Bread  pudding 
of  any  of  the  numerous  varieties.  POUDING  AU 
PAIN  Bis — Brown  bread  pudding.  POUDING  AUX 
ABRICOTS — An  apricot  pudding  or  apricot  cream 
tart.  POUDING  A  LA  VICTORIA — A  variety  of  plum 
pudding  with  dried  cherries  instead  of  raisins.  POU- 
DING AU  MACARONI — Macaroni  pudding.  POU- 
DING AU  VERMICELLE — Vermicelli  pudding.  POU- 
DING A  LA  C'REME  DE  Riz — Ground  rice  pudding. 
POUDING  AU  TAPIOCA — Tapioca  pudding.  POUDING 
AU  SAGOU— Sago  pudding.  POUDING  A  L' ANANAS 
— Pineapple  pudding  or  cream  tart;  POUDING  AU 
CITRON — Lemon  pudding.  POUDING  DE  CABINET — 
Cabinet  pudding.  POUDING  GENOISE— A  jelly  roll 
made  of  a  sheet  of  genoise  cake  roiled  up  with  jam. 
TANSY  PuDDiNG-"Of  all  the  old-fashioned,  simple- 
hearted  old  puddings  formerly  common,  even  in 
London  eating-houses,  cowslip  and  tansy  were  the 
most  characteristic.  Shakespeare  no  doubt  partook 
of  both  of  them.  In  both  cases  the  tansy  and  cow- 
slip have  about  as  much  to  do  with  the  puddings  as 
the  flint  stone  has  with  the  proverbial  broth.  The 
pounded  tansies  are  mixed  with  eggs  and  cream, 
spinach- juice,  Naples  buiscuits,  sugar,  white  wine, 
and  nutmegs.  The  mixture  is  thickened  over  the 
fire,  then  put  into  a  dish  lined  with  paste  and  baked. 


412 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


PUF 

This  may  not  sound  well,  nevertheless  it  was  a  cur- 
rent pudding— we  mean  a  popular  pudding— not  so 
many  years  ago."  POUDING  DIPLOMATIQUE  — 
Diplomatic  pudding.  A  cold  cream  ornamented  in 
a  mould.  It  is  made  like  jaune-mange,  or  velvet 
cream,  or  Italian  cream;  a  yolk  of  egg  custard  with 
gelatine  in  it  enough  to  solidify  it  when  ice  cold, 
and  flavored  with  brandy  and  vanilla.  The  mould 
is  coated  with  clear  wine  jelly  by  turning  it  about 
on  ice  and  decorated  with  candied  fruits  stuck  on 
the  cooling  jelly.  More  candied  fruits  are  mixed  in 
the  yellow  cream  which  is  then  poured  in  to  fill  up 
the  mould.  POUDING  DE  CABINET  GLACE  —  The 
same  yellow  cream  with  gelatine  in  it  as  for  Diplo- 
matic, but  the  mould  lined  with  lady  fingers  like  a 
charlotte,  on  the  sides  and  the  bottom  covered  with 
ratafias.  Thick  cream  mixed  with  the  gelatine  cus- 
tard. All  set  in  ice  and  turned  out  and  served  very 
cold,  with  whipped  cream.  POUDING  SOUFFLE  A 
LA  PRINCESSE— Yellow  yolk  of  egg  custard  made 
with  cream  as  for  Diplomatic,  then  mixed  with 
apcicot  marmalade  diluted  with  orange  juice.  When 
nearly  cold  some  whipped  whites  mixed  in,  set  on 
ice  in  a  mould.  In  all  these  there  should  be  i  oz. 
gelatine  to  each  quart.  With  too  much  gelatine  the 
compositions  are  hard  and  leathery,  with  too  little 
they  will  not  keep  shape.  (For  other  puddings  see 
Ices.) 

PUFFS— Two  distinct  sets  of  pastries  are  under- 
stood by  this  designation:  puff-paste  tarts,  turn- 
overs, vol-au- vents,  Banburys,  Coventries  and  the 
like  on  the  one  hand  and  on  the  other  a  variety  of 
cakes  made  of  peties-choux  paste,  represented  by 
cream  puffs  and  eclairs.  A  score  or  more  different 
cakes  are  included  in  this  class,  mostly  baked,  but 
some  are  fried,  as  Spanish  puffs. 

PUITS  (Fr.)— Wells.  Applied  to  tartlets  of  puff - 
paste  which  are  tall  and  have  a  cavity  in  the  center. 
PETITS  PUITS  D'AMOUR— Little  Love's  wells;  tall 
puff  tartlets  filled  with  jelly. 

PULLED  BREAD  —  In  most  good  establish- 
ments "  pulled  bread  "  is  served  with  cheese,  it  be- 
ing an  acceptable  substitute  for  the  usual  bread  or 
buiscuits.  Pull  a  loaf  while  steaming  hot  apart — 
pull,  not  cut;  take  a  fork  and  dig  out  pieces  of  the 
hot  bread  the  size  of  large  nuts,  leaving  them  rocky. 
Place  these  "snaps"  back  in  the  oven,  and  leave 
them  until  nicely  brown.  Do  not,  however,  let 
them  harden  too  much,  or  they  will  be  almost  un- 
eatable instead  of  being  nicely  crisp.  A  stale  loaf 
may  be  treated  in  the  same  way,  but  the  "snaps" 
will  not  be  quite  so  nice. 

PUMPKIX — One  of  the  American  specialties. 
PCMPKIN  VINE  GREENS  —  Real  spinach  is,  of 
course,  out  of  the  question  in  July,  August,  and 
September,  but  several  toothsome  substitutes  are 
obtainable.  For  instance,  a  glorious  dish  of  sum- 
mer spinach  may  be  obtained  by  pinching  out  the 
growing  points  of  pumpkin  vines  two  or  three  inches 
in  length.  These,  when  cooked  and  served  as 


QUA 

spinach,  are  of  the  loveliest  emerald-green  color,  and 
most  delicious  flavor. 

PUMPKIX  PIES— One  quart  of  sifted  pumpkin, 
one  quart  of  rich  sweet  milk,  12  eggs,  %  pound  of 
butter,  i  pound  of  sugar,  2  grated  nutmegs,  4  spoon- 
fuls of  rose  water.  Bake  the  mixture  in  a  puff- 
paste  in  pie  pans.  PUMPKIN  BUTTER — Marmalade 
made  by  stewing  down  pumpkin  with  sugaror light 
molasses,  ginger  to  flavor.  BAKED  PUMPKIN — (i) 
Slices  in  a  baking  pan  with  salt  and  roast  meat  fat 
baked  until  tender.  (2)  Southern  way,  slices  in  a 
baking  pan  with  sugar  and  butter  baked  with  fre- 
quent basting.  (3)  Sections  of  pumpkin  not  peeled, 
baked  without  any  addition,  served  like  baked  po- 
tatoes. MASHED  PUMPKIN  —  Steamed  or  baked, 
mashed  like  potatoes,  and  browned  in  the  oven. 
DRIED  PUMPKIN — Thin  slices  hung  upon  strings 
and  dried  form  a  regular  article  of  merchandise  at 
some  country  stores;  the  "pumpkin  chips"  only 
need  soaking  in  water  to  be  as  good  as  when  fresh 
for  making  pumpkin  pies.  CANNED  PUMPKIN — Can 
be  bought  for  hotel  use  in  even-  town.  PUMPKIN 
BREAD— Steamed  and  mashed  pumpkin  is  used  in 
some  sections  to  mix  with  corn  meal  or  meal  and 
flour  to  make  a  sweetish  kind  of  cake. 

PUXCH — Said  to  be  named  from  a  word  signi- 
fying five,  because  of  its  five  ingredients:  sugar, 
lemons,  spirit,  water,  spice.  (See  Drinks,  Ices, 
Spirits..)  PUNCH  AND  TURTLE — "Punch  is  cer- 
tainly too  strong  and  tasteful  with  turtle  soup,  thick 
or  thin,  and  it  is  barbarous  and  old-fashioned  to 
!  drink  it.  It  impairs  the  sensibility  of  the  palate  for 
|  all  wines  afterwards.  If  wine  must  be  drunk  at  the 
turtle  stage  of  a  dinner,  perhaps  fine  madeira  or 
sherry  is  least  objectionable." 

PUREE — Mashed  ingredients  rubbed  through  a 
sieve  or  a  colander. 

PURSLAXE— A  garden  weed  with  thick,  fleshy 
stalks  and  leaves ;  it  grows  prostrate  and  spreads 
over  the  ground  in  rich  soil.  Is  eaten  in  European 
countries.  POURPIER  ENFRITURE  A  LA  MILANAISE 
— Fried  purslane.  It  is  punctured  and  rolled  in  cin- 
namon, dipped  in  batter  and  fried. 

PYROLIGXEOUS  ACID— Used  in  sugar  boil- 
ing to  prevent  graining  and  is  said  to  give  better 
keeping  qualities  to  the  candy  than  the  other  acids 
used.  This  acid  also  preserves  meat  from  spoiling; 
it  is  the  principle  in  smoke  which  cures  bacon  and 
sausages. 


QUAILS  —  Plentiful  in  almost  every  American 
market  in  the  winter  season,  and  the  standard  dish 
is  broiled  quail  on  toast.  This  habit  or  custom  in 
regard  to  the  cooking,  although,  of  course,  sponta- 
neous in  its  origin,  is  strictly  in  accord  with  the  ver- 
dict of  cultivated  epicures  upon  the  merits  of  the 
quail.  THREE  WAYS — "There  are  in  Paris,  in  the 
cuisines  both  of  the  best  restaurants  and  of  private 
.  houses,  three  approved  ways  of  cooking  quails, 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


413 


QUA 

namely,  as  cailles  a  la  macedoine,  cailles  an  riz,  and 
roasted.  Of  these  various  ways  I  greatly  prefer  the 
.alter,  as  I  think,  and  you  will  doubtless  agree  with 
me,  that  the  quail,  and  especially  the  vine-quail,  can 
stand  very  well  on  its  own  merits  of  flavor  alone. 
The  quail  is  at  its  best  when  roasted  without  the 
addition  of  a  hundred-and-one  kickshaws,  however 
savory  and  intrinsically  meritorious  these  kickshaws 
may  be."  ROAST  QUAIL- — "The  best  recipe  for  roast- 
ing quails,  and  serving  them,  is  one  copied  from  the 
Cooks'  School  (Ecoledes  Cuisiniers),  which  I  accord- 
ingly reproduce  with  a  strong  recommendation. 
Scorch  your  quails,  clean  and  restore  livers,  spit 
them  through  the  thighs  with  a  little  spit,  with  a 
small  slice  of  crustless  bread  between  each  bird; 
secure  the  roast  with  a  skewer  passed  through 
each  end  of  the  spit;  butter  the  quails  with  a  brush; 
roast  before  a  sharp  fire,  basting  them  carefully  for 
10  minutes,  which  is  sufficient  time  to  allow  for  the 
roasting;  salt  them  and  take  them  off  the  spit,  serv- 
ing on  a  hot  dish  with  the  bastings  for  sauce  poured 
over  them,  and  surrounded  with  slices  of  lemon." 
VINE  QUAILS-  "Egypt  is  the  great  source  of  supply, 
but  for  quality  and  size  the  quails  of  Italy  bear  off 
the  palm,  and  epicures  discover  in  them  what  they 
call  the  'Amontillado  flavor,"  which  is  attributable 
to  the  birds'  feeding  on  the  succulent  shoots  of  the 
vine.  These  birds  should  not  be  dressed  in  any  other 
fashion  than  roasted  or  en papillotfs.  The  quail,  fair 
in  form,  pleasant  in  color,  and  delicate  in  flavor,  is 
utterly  spoilt  if  plunged  in  any  liquid,  for  so  evanes- 
cent is  the  distinctive  taste  of  the  bird,  that  a  sharp 
fire  alone  will  prevent  it  from  evaporating." — 
CAILLES  DE  ViGNE-"One  of  the  sights  of  the  streets 
of  Paris  to-day  are  the  hand-carts  full  of  live  quails 
(cailles  de  -vigne)  which  are  wheeled  about  by  itin- 
erant poulterers.  The  quails  are  covered  in  with  a 
wire  netting,  through  which  the  customer  selects 
those  that  promise  the  most  succulence.  The  birds 
are  usually  taken  home  and  killed  just  before  cook- 
ing. The  price  of  a  plump  quail  is  20  cents,  while  a 
very  fine  bird  will  bring  ten  cents  more."  STEWED 
QUAILS — "In  such  a  dish  as  a  compote  of  quails,  any 
flavor  the  bird  might  originally  have  possessed  is 
utterly  ruined  by  the  bacon,  the  parsley,  the  green 
onions,  the  mushrooms,  the  sauce,  and  the  season- 
ings with  which  the  stewed  caille  is  smothered. 
'This  dish,'  the  illustrious  chef  Ude  somewhat  pa- 
tronizingly informed  his  foreign  patrons,  'would  not 
do  for  an  English  dinner,'  an  opinion  in  which  we 
entirely  agree.  A  galantine  of  quails  is  not  much 
better.  CAILLES  BARDEES— "But  in  roasting,  the 
fewer  the  trimmings  the  better  the  bird.  A  vine  leaf 
tied  over  the  breast  and  covered  with  a  slice  of  fat 
bacon  (the  method  known  as  barding)  is  quite  allow- 
able, and  though  a  garnish  of  water-cresses  is  not 
forbidden,  only  a  barbarian  would  souse  the  plump 
mouthfuls  in  brown  gravy.  Eaten  with  toast  which 
has  absorbed  the  trail  in  the  roasting-pan,  the  quail 
is  a  prime  dainty,  and  the  man  who  does  not  overdo 
\+  mav  credit  the  tale  of  Hercules  having  been  re- 


QUA 

called  to  life  after  such  a  dietary,  and  pity  the  Rom- 
ans, who  ceased  only  after  feasting  at  Attic  ban- 
quets to  believe  that  the  coturnix  caused  epileptic 
fits."  CAILLES  A  LA  DUCHESSE — "To  return  to  my 
list  of  specialties  of  Parisian  restaxirants,  I  would 
advise  all  diners  who  visit  I-aperouse's  house  on  the 
Qual  des  Grands  Augustine  during  the  autumn 
months  to  order,  whether  it  be  on  the  daily  menu  or 
not,  a  dish  of  cailles  an  riz,  sometimes  called  cailles 
a  la  Duc/iesse.  To  prepare  them  at  home  proceed  as 
follows:  Clean  and  scorch  12  fat  quails,  putting 
their  livers  back;  put  them  into  a  pan  with  some  lard 
and  about  %  Ib.  of  salt  pork  (petit  sale)  cut  into  little 
dice.  Brown  rapidly  by  tossing  them  in  the  pan  over 
a  brisk  fire;  when  three-quarters  cooked,  pour  over 
2  glasses  of  good  bouillon,  add  a  bouquet  of  parsley, 
a  leaf  of  laurel,  a  clove  of  saffron,  and  some  cayenne- 
pepper.  Let  the  liquor  reach  boiling  point  three  or 
four  times,  and  then  pour  into  it  J£  Ib.  of  picked  rice 
which  has  been  previously  washed  with  care.  Three 
minutes  later  cover  up  the  pan,  and  allow  the  rice  to 
cook  over  a  slow  fire.  When  this  has  taken  place, 
take  out  the  bouquet  of  parsley,  and  serve  the  rice 
on  a  plate,  surrounded  by  the  birds."  BONED 
QUAILS  A  LA  CENDRE — The  chef  de  cuisine  at  the 
Cafe  de  Paris  gives  the  following  recipe  for  a  spec- 
ialty at  his  excellent  restaurant,  namel}-,  cailles  a  la 
Cendre.  Bone  your  quails;  fill  them  with  a  stuffing 
composed  of  poultry  breast,  bacon,  and  minced  truf- 
fles; roll  the  birds,  and  butter  them  slightly.  Place 
them  in  a  row  oh  a  baking-tin,  on  a  strip  of  abaisse, 
or  dough  rolled  out  thin.  Arrange  the  abaisse  so  as 
to  keep  the  birds  together  whilst  baking,  to  which 
proceed  after  wrapping  them  in  a  sheet  of  butter- 
paper.  Cook  at  moderate  heat  for  40  minutes.  Re- 
move the  abaisse,  and  serve.  CAILLES  A  LA  MACE- 
DOINE — Quails.braised  in  stock  and  wine,  with  their 
livers  and  some  chopped  ham  inside  them,  and  bacon, 
ham,  herbs  and  vegetables  in  the  braise;  served  on  a 
macedoine  of  vegetables.  CAILLES  AUX  LAITUES — • 
Quails  braised  and  served  with  stewed  lettuce  (like 
partridge  and  cabbage.)  CAILLES  AUX  PETITS  Pois- 
Quails  with  green  peas.  CAILLES  A  LA  PERIGEUX- 
Stuffed  with  the  livers,  bacon,  and  truffles;  roasted; 
served  with  Perigeux  sauce.  TURBAN  DE  CAILLES 
A  LA  FINANCIERS — Roast  quails  cut  in  halves, 
dished  in  a  circle  with  a  financiere  garnish  in  the 
center.  COMPOTE  DE  CAILLES  —  Stewed  in  stock 
with  wine,  with  slices  of  sweet-bread,  ham,  truffles, 
herbs,  and  croutons  to  border.  CHAUDFROID  DE 
CAILLES — Roast  quails,  the  meat  cut  in  dice  in  a 
chaudfroid  sauce;  served  cold  in  small  rolls  made 
for  the  purpose.  QUAILS  WITH  JAM— An  American 
paper  says  that  blackberry  jam  is  the  newest  epicu- 
rean wrinkle  for  eating  with  broiled  quail. 

QUAHAUG— A  large  variety  of  clam;  esteemed 
for  its  flavor  although  only  a  portion  is  eatable. 
The  favorite  way  of  cooking  is  egged,  breaded  and 
fried  same  as  oysters;  the  clams  appear  to  be  in 
strings  in  consequence  of  the  hard  portions  ha\  ing 
been  removed  as  they  were  opened.  Can  be  bought 


414 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


QUA 

in  cans.  Quahaugs  arc  more  largely  used  for  fish 
bait  than  for  eating.  They  are  unknown  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Atlantic. 

QUASS — Quass,  the  fermented  cabbage  water  of 
the  Russians,  is  their  popular  tipple.  Next  to  beer, 
it  has  more  votaries  thau  any  other  fermented  bever- 
age. 

QUASSIA  CHIPS— To  be  bought  at  the  drug- 
gists. An  infusion  in  boiling  water  with  syrup 
makes  fly- poison. 

QUEEN  PUDDING-A  meringue  pudding,  made 
of  a  rich  bread  custard  baked  one  inch  in  depth  in  a 
pan,  spread  over  when  barely  set  with  fruit  jelly  or 
marmalade,  covered  with  soft  meringue,  sifted  sugar 
on  top  and  baked  light  color.  Eaten  with  cream. 

QUEEX  FRITTERS-The  popular  name  of  beig - 
nets  souffles,  made  of  the  same  peculiar  paste  as 
petits-chaux  ar\Aprt>Jilerol/es,  and  cream  puffs,  which 
is  i  pint  water,  7  oz.  butter  or  lard,  9  oz.  flour,  10 
eggs.  The  water  and  butter  boiled  together,  flour 
dropped  in  and  stirred  and  cooked  to  paste,  eggs 
well  beaten  in,  off  the  fire,  one  at  a  time.  Small 
spoonfuls  dropped  in  hot  lard  enough  to  float  them, 
expand  and  become  hollow.  Eaten  with  sauce  or 
powdered  sugar. 

QUEEN'S  CAKES-Small  drop  cakes  made  of  % 
Ib.  each  butter  and  sugar,  4  or  5  eggs,  %  Ib  flour,  J^ 
Ib.  currants.  Dropped  on  paper  with  the  bag  and 
tube,  sugared  on  top,  baked. 

QUEEN'S  TARTS— Grated  rind  and  juice  of  2 
oranges  and  I  lemon,  4  oz.  sugar,  5  yolks.  Makes 
a  sort  of  orange  custard,  the  juice  being  in  place  of 
milk.  Filled  into  patty -pans  with  puff  paste  bot- 
toms, baked. 

QUENELLES— Small  balls  or  egg  shapes  of 
pounded  white  meat.  The  most  elaborately  made 
have  the  meat  pounded  in  a  morter  and  forced  through 
a  seive.  They  are  served  in  consommes  and  soups 
and  enter  in  sever.il  of  the  standard  garnishes  which 
give  names  to  dishes.  They  are  sometimes  made  to 
inclose  a  highly  flavored  mince,  (see  Consomme 
Nationale,)  and  again  are  made  in  flattened  shapes 
and  the  upper  surfaces  decorated  with  truffles  made 
to  adhere  with  white  of  egg.  DOMESTIC  QUE- 
NELLES— "Quenelles  are  another  delicate  and  attrac- 
tive form  in  which  cold  veal  or  fowl  can  be  served. 
Moisten  one  cup  of  finely  crumbed  bread  with  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  cream  or  milk,  drain  as  dry  as 
possible,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter, 
and  as  much  finely  chopped  meat  as  you  wish;  work 
in  well  one  beaten  egg,  and  season  all  thoroughly. 
Flouring  your  hands,  form  the  paste  into  round 
balls,  rolling  them  in  flour  when  shaped.  Bring  to 
a  boiling  heat  in  a  saucepan  one  large  cup  of  well 
seasoned  gravy,  drop  in  the  quenelles,  and  boil  fast 
five  minutes.  The  gravy  can  be  thickened  and 
poured  over  them,  or  they  can  be  rolled  in  flour  or 
cracker  crumbs,  and  fried  in  lard  or  butter,  draining 
off  all  the  grease  before  serving." 


RAB 

QUINCE— A  fruit  like  a  pear  in  shape,  asef ul  for 
preserving,  for  making  jelly  and  marmalade,  but  of 
little  importance  in  comparison  with  the  other  large 
fruits.  It  is  found  at  its  best  put  up  in  cans,  the 
long  cooking  of  the  canning  process  being  an  ad- 
vantage with  so  hard  a  fruit.  Can  be  used  in  a  ma 
jority  of  the  ways  given  for  other  fruits.  (See  Ap- 
ples, Apricots,  Pears.) 

R. 

RABBIT  —  Rabbit  meat  evidently  occupies  an 
equivocal  position  in  the  list  of  delicacies.  It  is  un- 
questionably good  food.  Young  rabbit  compares 
favorably  with  chicken  and  is  made  to  do  duty  for 
chicken  sometinies,  particularly  in  the  way  of 
canned  chicken,  potted  chicken  and  in  puree  soups 
and  pies.  Yet  one  may  see  that  rabbit  is  not  re- 
garded as  a  luxury  in  this  country  in  the  fact  that  it 
is  never  found  in  the  bill  of  fare  of  the  dearer  class 
of  restaurants  and  is  never  in  the  game  course  of 
any  high-class  dinner,  although  it  may  occasionally 
be  found  in  some  more  elaborate  shape  amongst  the 
entrees.  It  makes  all  the  difference  whether  such 
game  is  scarce  and  has  to  be  guarded  and  fostered 
by  gamekeepers  in  private  hunting  preserves,  or 
whether  it  is  so  plentiful  naturally  as  to  be  the 
cheapest  of  all  meat,  as  it  now  is  in  nearly  every 
place,  for  the  western  farmers  find  the  rabbit  a  pest 
that  despoils  them  of  their  growing  crops,  and  turn 
out  in  winter  in  concert  and  destroy  them  as  vermin 
by  the  wagon  loads.  In  Australia  the  plague  of 
rabbits  is  so  serious  as  to  claim  the  attention  of  the 
government,  and  the  canning  of  rabbit  meat  and  ex- 
port of  rabbits  in  a  frozen  state  has  made  this  meat 
as  plentiful  and  common  in  London  as  it  is  in  our 
western  towns  after  a  heavy  fall  of  snow,  when 
rabbits  are  taken  by  the  thousands.  Still  it  supplies 
a  vast  amount  of  good,  fresh  meat  to  tens  of  thou- 
sands of  poor  people  who  might  otherwise  seldom 
taste  any.  The  foreign  styles  of  dressing  rabbits 
here  mentioned  are  to  elucidate  the  contents  of 
French  menus;  the  home  methods  of  cooking  rab- 
bits may  be  at  once  summed  as  being  thasame  well- 
known  ways  as  for  chickens.  LAPEREAU  A  LA  Pot, 
LETTE — "  Paul,  I  hear,  has  made  a  splendid  thing  of 
it.  He  made  his  name  by  means  of  certain  special- 
ties of  his,  which  no  gourmet  who  respects  himself 
can,  if  anywhere  near  Pourville,  pass  on  without 
tasting.  These  specialites  are  Canard  au  sang, 
Matelotte  Normande,  and  Lapereau  a  la  poulette, 
in  all  of  which  Paul,  who  is  his  own  chef,  excels. 
Cut  up  your  rabbit  into  pieces.  Fry  these  in  butter 
until  firm;  but  not  long  enough  to  brown  them.  Let 
the  butter  run  off,  and  let  the  meat  get  cold.  Then 
lard  the  fleshy  parts  with  strips  of  excellent  bacon. 
Put  the  pieces  back  into  the  saucepan,  with  a  spoon- 
ful of  flour  and  a  bouquet  of  herhs,  moistening  with 
a  glassful  of  white  wine  and  a  little  bouillon.  When 
the  cooking  is  half  finished,  add  some  onions,  some 
mushrooms  cut  into  pieces,  and  allow  the  stewing 
to  finish  over  a  slow  fire.  When  well  cooked,  strain 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


415 


RAB 

the  sauce,  skim  off  fat,  bind  with  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs,  and  pour  it  over  the  meat  which  you  have 
meanwhile  arranged  on  a  dish.  Just  before  serving, 
squeeze  the  juice  of  one  lemon  all  over  the  dish." 
RABBIT  WITH  SPINACH — Bone  the  thighs  and  legs, 
replace  the  bones  by  pieces  of  bacon,  sew  up  the 
openings  so  as  to  put  the  limbs  in  proper  shape 
again,  and  put  it  on  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  with 
slices  of  bacon,  small  onions,  carrots,  thyme,  pars- 
ley, a  bay  leaf,  and  some  stock.  Let  'Jie  whole  cook 
for  two  hours  on  a  slow  fire;  then  strain  off  the 
stock,  and  serve  the  rabbit,  cut  up,  en  spinach. 
FILLETS  OF  RABBITS — Cut  the  fillets  from  two  rab- 
bits, lard  them  with  fat  bacon,  and  shortly  before 
they  are  wanted  put  them  into  a  tin  in  a  hot  oven, 
with  plenty  of  butter,  and  a  little  salt  strewn  over 
them  (the  tin  should  be  covered  with  a  sheet  of  but- 
tered paper);  they  will  only  take  a  few'minutes  to 
dress,  and  should  be  served  with  the  dish  garnished 
with  small  mushrooms,  slices  of  lemon  and  parsley. 
Liver  sauce  is  generally  sent  to  table  with  them. 
RABBIT  A  LA  KIRKHAM — Boned  rabbit.  Pieces  with 
the  bones  taken  out.  Some  rabbit  meat  run  through 
the  sausage  machine  and  made  into  forcemeat  with 
bread-crumbs  and  seasonings,  part  of  it  stuffed  in 
place  of  the  bones,  some  spread  on  the  outside  of 
the  pieces,  egged,  breaded,  fried;  fumet  sauce  made 
of  the  bones,  with  wine.  JUGGED  RABBIT — Potted 
rabbit.  Wash  a.  large  rabbit,  and  cut  into  joints; 
dredge  with  flour,  and  fry  lightly  in  butter  or  drip- 
ping, with  a  few  pieces  of  lean  ham.  The  meat 
should  only  be  half  cooked.  Place  immediately  in 
a  stew  jar  with  pepper,  salt,  and  the  chopped  rind 
of  half  a  small  lemon.  Cover  the  meat  with  gravy 
or  stock,  and  stew  gently  for  two  hours.  About 
twenty  minutes  before  serving  thicken  the  gravy 
with  a  little  cornflour,  and  simmer  in  it  a  few  force- 
meat balls.  LAPEREAUX  A  L'AMGLAISE — Stewed 
rabbit  with  Soubise  sauce.  PATE  CHAUD  DE  LAPE- 
REAUX — Rabbit  pie,  hot.  LAPEREAUX  A  LA  JARDI- 
NIERE— Rabbits  in  a  white  stew  with  vari-colored 
vegetables  cut  in  balls  with  the  potato  spoon.  LA- 
PEREAUXA  LA  TA VERNIER — White  stew  with  but- 
ton onions  and  mushrooms.  LAPEREAUX  GRILLES 
— Young  rabbits  flattened,  cooked  on  the  broiler, 
spread  with  maitre  d'hotel  butter,  served  with  bor- 
der of  buttered  toast  in  triangular  shapes.  LAPE- 
REAUX A  LA  VILLAGEOISE—  Stuffed  and  roasted, 
brown  onion  sauce.  CIVET  OF  RABBIT — See  Civet. 
GALANTINE  DE  LAPINS— Boned,  stuffed,  rolled  up 
in  a  cloth,  boiled,  pressed  into  some  shape  while 
cooling,  decorated  with  aspic  jelly.  (See  Galan- 
tines,') 

RACINES  (Fr.)— Certain  vegetables;  turnips( 
carrots  and  potatoes  served  as  a  garnish. 

RADISHES  • —  In  an  emergency  white  turnip 
radishes  may  be  cooked  and  served  in  the  place  of 
young  turnips,  and  many  prefer  them  to  turnips 
when  nicely  cooked.  To  PREPARE  FOR  TABLE— 
Radishes  should  be  kept  in  ice  water;  the  long  reds 
should  be  scraped  or  thinly  pared  in  stripes,  a  stripe 


RAR 

of  white  showing  with  a  stripe  of  red.  Round 
radishes  may  be  cut  with  the  point  of  a  penknife  so 
that  the  outside  will  curl  backwards  from  the  white 
core  like  a  flower  in  shape.  Radishes  are  eaten  with 
the  fingers  like  olives  and  asparagus.  GOLDEN 
RADISHES — In  the  oblations  of  garden  fruits  which 
the  Greeks  offered  to  Apollo  in  his  temple  of  Delpos, 
they  dedicated  turnips  in  lead  and  beets  in  silver, 
whereas  radishes  were  presented  in  beaten  gold. 
RADISH  TOPS— Make  excellent  greens  cooked  as 
spinach.  RADISHES  ix  SALAD — Much  good  use  of 
radishes  can  be  made  in  the  decoration  of  salad 
dishes,  and  they  are  good  cut  up  in  various  green 
salads. 

RAGOUT— The  old  term  for  Garnish.  (See  Gar- 
nishes.') A  ragout  is  a  rich  compound  stew,  the 
components  being  all  in  small  morsels. 

RAIE  (Fr.)— Ray  or  skate,  sea  fish,  RAIE  A  LA 
NOISETTE  —  Cut  in  pieces  without  bone,  boiled, 
served  in  butter  sauce  with  the  pounded  live*  of  tfie 
fish  and  tarragon  vinegar. 

RAIFORT  (Fr.)— Horseradish. 

RAISED  PIES— See  Pates,  Pies. 

RAISINS  (Fr.)— Grapes.  GLACE  EAU  DE  RAI- 
SINS— Grape  water  ice.  TARTE  DE  RAISINS  VERTS 
— Green  grape  pie. 

RAISINS  DE  CORINTHE  (Fr.)  —  Zante  cur- 
rants. 

RAISINE  DE  BOURGOGXE  —  Ripe  pears 
boiled  in  grape  juice,  the  juice  previously  boiled 
down  to  double  strength  like  a  natural  syrup,  the 
pears,  when  done  stewing,  further  reduced  by  bak- 
ing in  jars. 

RAMAKINSorRAMEQUINS— The  latter  is 
the  French  spelling,  but  is  oftenest  used.  They  are 
cheese  puffs  or  little  puddings  of  cheese  baked  in 
paper  cases.  Made  of  %  pint  milk,  a  oz.  butter,  i 
large  tablespoon  flour,  2  oz.  grated  cheese,  4  eggs, 
pepper,  milk  and  butter  boiled  together,  thickened 
with  the  flour;  cheese  added  and  eggs  well  beaten 
at  last;  baked  in  little  cases  or  cups.  For  lunches 
or  club  suppers.  RAMEQUINS  A  LA  RAYMOND— 
The  same  mixture  as  queen  fritters  with  enough 
grated  cheese  mixed  in  to  flavor  it  well,  baked  like 
puffs  on  pans,  dusted  with  grated  cheese  before 
taken  from  the  oven.  RAMEQUINS  A  LA  SEFTON — 
Or  Sefton's  fancy,  invented  by  an  epicure  of  that 
name.  They  are  puff  paste  with  grated  cheese  rolled 
in  the  layers  cut  in  small  shapes  and  baked.  RA- 
MEQUINS SOUFFLES — Cheese  puffs  in  paste  cups. 
The  mixture  made  same  as  frangipane  with  cheese 
and  salt  instead  of  sugar.  When  cold  whipped 
whites  mixed  in,  baked  in  cups  or  cases.  They  rise 
high  and  are  to  be  served  immediately.  RAME- 
QUINS A  LA  GENEVOISE — Pounded  butter  and  hard 
boiled  yolks  with  grated  cheese  spread  on  small 
shapes  of  bread  and  baked. 

RARE — An  English  Americanism.  At  a  din- 
ner in  Philadelphia  a  few  years  ago  some  one  asked 


416 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


RAS 

an  English  lord,  who  was  one  of  the  guests,  if  he 
would  take  his  duck  rare.  "Rare,  rare?"  queried 
the  noble  lord ;  "now  there  is  another  of  your  Amer- 
icanisms, which  makes  it  so  difficult  to  understand 
you;  and  pray,  what  do  you  mean  by  rare?"  There 
was  a  good  American  present  who  promptly  piped 
out  from  the  other  end  of  the  table:  "  \Ve  mean  In- 
rare,  my  Lord,  what  Dryden  meant  when  he  wrote: 
'Roast  me  quickly  an  egg,  and  see  that  it  be  rare." 

RASPBERRY— One  of  the  choicest  fruits,  most 
perishable,  and  of  a  very  transient  season.  Most 
valued  as  raw  fruit  for  breakfast.  RASPBERRIES 
AND  CREAM  —  Berries  served  in  glass  dishes  or 
saucers,  cream  aside  in  small  pitcher.  RASPBER- 
RIES WITH  ICE  CREAM— A  spoonful  on  top  of  the 
cream  in  the  plate.  RASPBERRY  ICE  CREAM  — 
Raspberries  mixed  in  ice  cream  at  the  finish  of 
freezing,  that  they  may  not  entirely  lose  their  shape. 
RASPBERRY  SHERBET — Berries  rubbed  through  a 
strainer  mixed  with  syrup  and  frozen  white  of  eggs 
added  at  last.  RASPBERRY  SHORTCAKE— Cakes  of 
short-paste  or  puff-paste  about  ^  inch  thick,  baked 
on  plates  split  open,  spread  with  ripe  berries  and 
sugar  between  and  on  top.  Served  with  cream. 
RASPBERRY  MERINGUE — Sheet  of  cake  in  a  pan, 
berries  an  inch  deep  spread  over  it,  sugar,  soft  me- 
ringue an  inch  deep  on  top,  lightly  baked,  cut  in 
squares.  RASPBERRY  CHARLOTTE— Bread  crumbs 
and  berries  with  sugar  in  alternate  layers  in  a  but- 
tered pan,  butter  on  top,  baked.  Eaten  with  cream. 
RASPBERRY  PUDDINGS  AND  PIES  —  See  Apples, 
Blackberries,  Cherries.  RASPBERRY  TRiFLE-Sponge 
cake  in  a  shallow^glass  bowl,  saturated  with  sweet- 
ened raspberry  juice,  then  covered  with  whipped 
cream  and  bordered  all  around  with  bunches  of  rasp- 
berries. RASPBERRY  SYRUP  —  Strained  raspberry 
juice  boiled  with  an  equal  measure  of  sugar,  kept 
in  bottles,  used  for  all  sorts  of  raspberry  prepara- 
tions; in  drinks,  in  ice  cream,  sherbet,  sauces,  etc. 
RASPBERRY  VINEGAR — Is  a  good  sauce  for  all  sorts 
of  flour  and  egg-puddings,  and  pancakes.  Made  by 
putting  a  quart  of  raspberries  and  a  quart  of  vine- 
gar together  in  a  jar  to  remain  8  days,  the  liquor 
then  strained  off  and  i  Ib.  of  sugar  to  each  pint  al- 
lowed, boiled  up,  bottled.  TARTE  DE  FRAMBOISES 
— Raspberry  open  pie.  PAIN  DE  FRAMBOISES — A 
mould  of  raspberry  jam  mixed  with  gelatine,  with 
cream  in  the  center.  CREME  DE  FRAMBOISES — 
Raspberry  cream.  (See  Bavarois.)  GELEE  DE 
FRAMBOISES — Raspberry  jelly.  GLACE  CREME  DE 
FRAMBOISES— Raspberry  ice  cream.  RASPBERRY 
OMELET — A  sweet  omelet  having  thick  stewed  rasp- 
berries in  the  center  rolled  up  in  it.  Sugar  on  top. 

RASPINGS— The  bakers  rasp  off  the  brown  crust 
of  loaves  which  may  be  too  dark  and  the  raspings 
are  used  to  give  a  browned  appearance  to  some 
baked  dishes  and  to  roasted  hams. 

RATAFIA— A  cordial  strongly  flavored  with  the 
kernels  of  stone  fruits;  made  bv  steeping  some 
hundreds  of  kernels  of  peaches,  apricots,  necta- 


RED 

rines  and  cherries  in  a  gallon  of  brandy  with  a  pound 
of  loaf  sugar,  for  several  months.  Used  for  flavor- 
ing liquors,  drinks,  ice  cream,  etc. 

RATAFIAS — Small  macaroons  often  named  in 
cookery  directions,  made  of  3  oz.  sweet  almonds,  2 
:  oz.   bitter    almonds,    2  whites,  i    dessert  spoonful 
brandy  in  the  almonds  while  pounding,  8  oz.  susjar. 
Drops  size  of  5  cent  piece  dropped  on  paper  ami 
\  baked;  see  Macaroons — tnese  are  the  same  more 
I  highly  flavored.     Used  as  cakes,  but  also  as  flavor- 
ings in  puddings  and  creams. 

RAYIGOTE  SAUCE— Ravigote  Vtrlc  ;  Mayon- 
i  naise  sauce  made  green  with  a  mixture  of  chopped 
,'  parsley,  chives,  chervil,  tarragon  and  shallot  and 
spinach  green  or  parsley  juice. 

RA  VIGOTE  SAUCE  HOT— White  butter  sauce 
|  containing  vinegar  and  finely  chopped  parsley,  tar- 
ragon and  chervil. 
RAVIOLIS— See  Italian  Cookery. 
RAW  STEAK — Sometimes  ordered  by  invalids. 
"In  certain  parts  of  Germany  and  France,  a  'deli- 
cacy' is  much  patronized  by  a  great  many  people 
which  is  eaten  absolutely  raw.  A  raw  steak  ( as 
fresh  as  it  can  be  got)  is  minced,  mixed  with  finely 
chopped  shallots  and  parsley,  and  seasoned  to  taste 
with  salt  and  pepper.  A  raw  egg  is  broken  over 
this  mess,  and  the  dainty  dish  is  placed  before  one, 
with  oil  and  vinegar  to  add  as  fancy  may  dictate." 
SCRAPED  RAW  STEAK— As  called  for  in  American 
hotels  the  steak  is  generally  required  to  be  scraped 
with  a  sharp  knife  from  a  broad  round  steak,  it 
being  a  pulp  of  raw  meat,  the  seasoning  depends 
upon  the  order. 

RAY — A  specie  of  flat  fish  of  which  there  are 
several  varieties.  (See  Skate.) 

RICHAUFFE  (Fr.)— A  re-cooked  dish;  cooked 
meat  served  up  in  some  fresh  form.  Equivalent  to 
kedgeree. 

RED  AXTS— Sprigs  of  winter-green  or  ground 
ivy  will  drive  away  red  ants;  branches  of  worm- 
wood will  do  the  same  for  black  ants.  The  in>ccts 
may  be  kept  out  of  sugar  barrels  bv  drawing  a  wide 
chalk  mark  round  the  top  near  the  edge.  Spirits  of 
turpentine  will  keep  all  insects  from  storerooms  by- 
putting  a  few  drops  in  the  corners  and  upon  the 
shelves.  Cocoa  sprinkled  about  the  places  infcsttG 
by  red  ants  will  very  soon  drive  them  away. 

RED  FISH  —  Local  Louisiana  name  of  the  sea 
bass  or  channel  bass.  It  is  pale  red  when  freshly 
caught,  but  not  red  like  the  snapper. 

REDHEAD  DUCK— Ranks  next  to  canvas-back 
in  quality;  is  often  substituted  for  it;  cooked  in  the 
same  wavs. 

RED  SXAPPER-One  of  the  very  finest  American 
fishes.  Its  flesh  is  the  whitest  and  very  firm,  if  there 
be  a  defect  at  all  it  may  be  that  the  flesh  is  too  firm. 
Its  flavor  is  delicate  without  being  so  decided  as  to 
repel  the  people  who  do  not  like  fish  in  general.  It 
is  the  most  satisfactorv  fish  to  fry  for  bivakfast,  the 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


417 


RED 

whiteness  of  the  meats  howing  through  the  breading 
and  affording  a  fine  color  which  some  other  fish 
never  acquire  in  the  pan.  The  snapper  is  abundant 
also,  being  found  in  the  markets  of  every  consider- 
able town  of  the  middle  and  southern  states  and 
beyond.  In  color  is  like  the  gold  fish  in  the  globes, 
but  attains  a  noble  size.  How  AND  WHERE  IT  is 
CAUGHT — This  magnificent  fish  is  one  of  the  most 
common  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  It  is  gorgeously 
colored,  very  graceful  in  all  its  movements,  and 
unusually  wary  and  capricious.  In  weight  it  ranges 
from  2  to  35  Ibs.,  averaging  7  Ibs.  Its  home  is  in 
the  strictly  salt  waters  of  the  Gulf  a  short  distance 
from  the  coast.  There  it  lives  on  the  bottom  at  a 
depth  of  60  to  240  feet.  The  ocean  floor  of  Florida 
declines  gently  at  first,  for  a  distance  of  from  30  to 
50  miles  from  the  shore,  to  a  depth  of  300  feet,  then 
very  abruptly  decends  to  a  depth  of  600  feet,  beyond 
which  the  slope  is  more  gradual  to  a  depth  of  about 
13,000  feet.  The  first  slope  is  a  sandy  one;  the 
second  is  sandy,  rocky  and  muddy,  while  the  third 
is  wholly  muddy.  The  surface  of  the  second  with 
its  uneven  rocks  afford  homes  and  comparative  se- 
curity for  all  kinds  of  small  marine  animals,  such  as 
crabs,  barnacles,  corals,  etc.,  etc.  The  red  snapper  is 
most  prominent  in  these  communities.  It  is  one  of  the 
largest,  most  active  and  handsomest  species.  Its 
life  is  spent  about  the  patches  of  rocks,  swimming 
about  6  feet  from  the  bottom  among  tall  branching 
oscols  and  waving-  grasses  in  a  lazy  graceful  man- 
ner, forever  on  the  alert  to  dash  upon  some  reckless 
smaller  fish.  Ordinarily  it  has  about  fifty  species  of 
beautifully  delicate  fishes  to  select  its  food  from. 
Among  these  are  rare  fishes  that  live  only  about  the 
coral  reefs  of  warm  seas.  Even  the  most  celebrated 
little  fish  of  the  Romans — the  red  mullet,  that  was  so 
highly  esteemed  by  the  epicure  emperors,  furnishes 
an  occasional  meal  for  the  red  snapper.  In  conse- 
quence of  living  upon  food  of  this  character,  the 
flesh  of  the  red  snapper  is  peculiarly  firm  and  sweet, 
being  disposed  in  regular  layers  that  make  it  espe- 
cially desirable  for  serving  at  the  table.  The  red 
snapper  is  caught  altogether  with  hook  and  line. 
Vessels  carrying  6  to  8  men  go  from  home  as  far  as 
250  miles,  being  then  about  50  miles  from  land.  The 
places  where  the  fish  live  is  found  by  sounding- 
lines  that  indicate  the  depth  known  to  the  fisher- 
man, and  that  have  baited  hooks  attached  which  are 
quite  sure  to  get  a  victim  if  there  are  fish  near  by 
and  they  are  disposed  to  bite.  The  vessels  are 
anchored  over  the  spot  or  allowed  to  drift  across  it, 
while  the  fishermen  ply  their  lines  as  rapidly  as 
possible.  Eacli  man  handles  a  single  line,  which 
has  two  large  hooks  and  several  pounds  of  lead  at- 
tached. "When  the  fish  are  hungry  they  bite  as  fast  j 
as  the  lines  are  lowered  to  them,  and  even  rise  near 
to  the  surface  of  the  sea  in  their  eargerness,  biting 
at  the  bare  hooks  or  anything  that  is  offered.  From 
this  habit  they  have  gained  the  name  of  snappers. 
Very  often  two  large  fish  are  hooked  at  once,  and 
then  the  fisherman  has  a  hard  pull,  for  the  snapper 


REE 

is  gamey.  While  it  is  so  easily  captured  at  times, 
there  are  spells  when  it  cannot  be  lured  by  any  kind 
of  bait  or  snare.  BOILED  RED  SNAPPER — Put  in 
enough  hot  water  to  cover  well,  resting  on  the 
drainer  bottom,  with  salt  and  little  vinegar;  sim- 
mered about  yi  hour,  lifted  out  by  means  of  the  false 
bottom,  and  onto  a  dish,  served  with  any  of  the 
usual  fish  sauces;  caper  sauce  is  especially  suitable, 
and  Hollandaise  potatoes.  RED  SNAPPER  STUFFED 
AND  BAKED— Cooked  with  the  head  on,  the  fish 
having  the  back  bone  removed,  without  quite  sever- 
ing the  skin,  from  the  back,  and  the  bone  separated 
from  the  head  at  the  shoulders;  stuffed  and  restored 
to  original  form,  fastened  with  twine.  Baked  with 
slices  of  salt  pork  in  the  pan;  served  with  tomato 
sauce  made  in  the  same  pan.  RED  SNAPPER,  FLOR- 
IDA STVLE — Split  down  the  back  and  laid  open  in  a 
pan,  the  skin  side  down,  the  upper  surface  dusted 
over  with  salt,  white  pepper,  coloring  pepper;  set 
in  the  oven  to  get  hot;  taken  out  in  a  few  minutes, 
and  warm  butter  poured  over;  then  baked  brown 
with  frequent  bastings;  served  with  lemons  and  to- 
mato catsup.  RED  SNAPPER  AU  COURTBOUILLON — 
For  a  fish  of  5  to  8  Ibs.  is  required  2  teaspoons  col- 
oring pepper,  J^  teaspoon  black  pepper,  %  teaspoon 
cayenne,  2  cloves  of  garlic  sliced  thin — all  these  to 
be  placed  in  water  ready  in  a  cup.  Next,  i  onion 
lightly  fried  in  lard,  J^  can  tomatoes  added,  fish  in 
pieces  put  in,  pepper  mixture  added;  cooked  lomin- 
utes,  J^  cup  flour  to  thicken;  served  with  fried  bread. 
RED  SNAPPER  A  LA  BEAUFORT— Fish  boiled  whole 
in  kettle  with  stock,  white  wine,  water,  aromatics; 
when  done,  upper-side  skin  removed,  fish  glazed, 
decorated  with  lobster  coral ;  served  with  matelote 
sauce  of  oysters,  shrimps,  etc. 

REED  BIRDS— The  reed  birds  of  the  North  are 
the  rice  birds  of  the  South.  They  swarm  on  the  rice 
plantations  to  an  extent  that  becomes  serious  through 
their  depredations  upon  the  grain,  and  at  times  all 
available  hands  have  to  be  kept  on  the  watch  with 
guns  and  scare  crows  on  that  account.  In  this  way 
the  birds  acquire  the  fatness  which  makes  them 
equal  to  the  ortolans  and  fig-peckers  of  Italy.  REED 
BIRDS  A  LA  BEECHER — The  following,  except  per- 
haps the  oyster,  was  Henry  Ward  Beecher's  favorite 
way:  "One  of  the  dishes  was  'reed  bird,' and  the 
novel  way  in  which  these  were  served  \vill  interest 
some  readers.  They  were  prepared  by  the  cook  tak- 
ing a  raw  potato,  cutting  it  in  t\vo  and  scooping  out 
enough  of  the  inside  to  make  a  hole  big  enough  to 
hold  a  reed  bird,  an  oyster  and  a  little  butter.  These 
were  boxed  inside  the  potato,  the  whole  tied  up  and 
baked."  REED  BIRDS  WITH  MUSHROOMS — Among 
the  most  acceptable  of  entrees  is  a  dish  of  birds  with 
mushrooms.  Truss  2  doz.  reed  birds,  or  other  small 
birds,  as  for  roasting;  put  into  each  a  button  mush- 
room, of  which  have  a  heaping  pint  after  all  the 
stalks  are  removed;  put  the  birds  and  the  remaining 
mushrooms  into  a  stewpan,  season  them  with  a  very 
little  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  either  ^  Ib.  of  fresh 
butter  (divided  into  four  and  slightly  rolled  in  flour) 


418 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


REF 

or  i  pt.  of  rich  cream.  Cover  the  stewpan  closely, 
set  it  over  a  moderate  fire  to  stew  gently  till  the  birds 
and  mushrooms  are  thoroughly  dry  and  tender.  Do 
not  open  the  lid  to  stir  the  stew,  but  occasionally 
give  the  pan  a  vigorous  shake.  AVhen  the  birds  are 
ready  to  serve,  lay  them  on  toast  with  the  mush- 
rooms placed  around.  BROILED  REED  BIRDS— 
Trussed  with  the  head  left  on  and  tucked  under  the 
wing,  their  own  liver  and  bit  of  butter  put  inside, 
run  side  by  side  on  a  skewer  with  a  very  thin  slice 
of  parboiled  bacon  between  each,  and  broiled  on  the 
skewers  over  clear  coals.  Served  on  toast-garnish 
with  lemon  and  parsley.  PHILADELPHIA  SPECIALTY 
-"The  reed  bird,  like  terrapin  and  canvas-back  duck, 
is  an  exclusively  American  luxury.  Our  Philadel- 
phia contemporary,  Progress,  avers  that  the  cook 
who  cuts  off  the  head  of  this  feathered  dainty 
'throws  away  the  most  delicious  bit  of  a  delicious 
morsel.'  "  REED  BIRDS  IN  ENTREES— In  France 
the  small  bird  is  esteemed  an  epicure's  morsel,  and 
is  dressed  in  a  variety  of  fashions,  e.  g.t  wrapped  in 
calf's  udder  and  roasted,  broiled  in  cases  lined  with 
quenelle  forcemeat,  or  cooked  in  beef  marrow  sprin- 
kled with  chopped  mixed  herbs,  lemon  juice,  and 
grated  crusts  of  bread.  For  salmis  they  are  cooked 
in  precisely  the  same  way  as  any  ordinary  game 
would  be.  For  a  -vol-au--vent  the  reed  bird  would 
be  boned,  stuffed  with  a  rich  forcemeat,  and  served 
in  -vol-au-vent  cases,  with  mushrooms  and  a  well- 
made  white  sauce.  A  la  Parisienne  they  would  be 
boned,  stuffed  with  a  game  forcemeat  and  small 
truffles,  then  braised,  and  sent  to  table  arranged  on  a 
dish  in  a  crown  shape,  with  veal  quenelles  in  the 
center,  and  a  game  sauce.  These  fanciful  ways  of 
dressing  are  generally  employed  for  entrees.  REED 
BIRDS  COLD — In  some  towns  and  villages  of  North- 
ern Italy  small  birds  are  treated  with  the  same  ap- 
preciative kindness.  They  are  roasted  on  a  spit  be- 
fore a  sharp  fire,  and  then  laid  in  pickle  for  a  day  or 
two,  and  then  served  cold.  (See  Alouettes,  Afattvi- 
eties,  Ortolans.) 

REFORM,  SAUCE— Named  for  the  formerly 
famous  Reform  Club  of  London  where  Soyer  of- 
ficiated and  Ude  before  him.  It  is  poivrade  sauce 
combined  with  port  wine  and  currant  jelly. 

REINE  (Fr.)— Queen.  PATTIES  A  I.A  REINE— 
Queen  patties.  POTAGE  A  LA  REINE — Queen's  soup, 
or  to  the  queen's  taste. 

REINE-CLAUDE  (Fr.)  —  Green-gage  plum. 
REINE  CLAUDE  ICE— See  Ices  and  Gateaux. 

RELISHES— See  Appetizers. 

REMOULADE,  SAUCE  —  Same  as  ravigote 
in  appearance,  made  of  hard-boiled  yolks  pounded 
with  mustard,  oil  and  vinegar,  and  minced  garlic 
and  parsley. 

RENAISSANCE  (a  la)  —  Newly  -made,  re- 
formed, made  over  again.  Applied  only  to  whole 
fishes  or  birds,  or  complete  pieces,  like  a  boar's 
head,  which  are  formed  in  natural  shape  again  by 
the  cook. 


RHU 

RENNET — Liquid  used  to  mix  with  fresh  milk 
to  change  it  to  sweet  curd,  whereof  cheese  is  made. 
This  sweet  curd  is  useful  also  in  some  kinds  of  des- 
sert, as  curds  with  clotted  cream,  and,  drained  as  if 
for  cheese,  it  is  mixed  with  eggs,  etc.,  in  various 
sorts  of  cheese  cakes.  Rennet  is  obtained  by  soak- 
ing the  inside  lining  of  a  calf's  stomach  (cleansed 
and  prepared)  in  water.  "  Get  a  calf's  bag  from  the 
butcher's — in  some  places  they  keep  them  already 
pickled  for  the  purpose.  If  you  can  get  one  pickled, 
cut  it  in  halves,  and  put  half  in  about  a  pint  and  a 
half  of  strong  salt  and  water;  let  it  stand  a  dav  or 
two,  then  use  the  rennet  as  required,  taking  care  to- 
add  fresh  salt  and  water  in  proportion  as  it  is  taken 
out,  to  keep  up  the  supply.  The  other  half  of  the 
calf's  bag  keep  in  reserve  in  the  pickle  as  it  comes 
from  the  butcher,  and  as  the  rennet  from  the  first 
half  becomes  too  weak,  add  a  portion  of  the  second 
half  to  keep  up  the  strength.  About  a  tablespoon  - 
ful  to  two  quarts  of  milk  is  the  amount  required;  let 
stand  in  a  warm  corner  for  2  or  3  hours. 

REVENIR  or  FAIRE  REVENIR  —  Short  ex- 
pression used  in  French  recipes  to  indicate  the  pre- 
liminary half-frying  of  the  ingredients,  which  is 
practiced  in  three-fourths  of  the  dishes  prepared  by 
French  methods.  The  outside  of  the  meat  and 
vegetables  are  quickly  fried  and  after  that  the  stew- 
ing begins,  stock  and  wine  being  added  to  the  for- 
mer contents  of  the  saucepan. 

RHUBARB— When  preparing  rhubarb,  particu- 
larly for  pies,  see  what  a  metamorphosis  takes  place 
by  the  judicious  addition  of  a  little  candied  lemon- 
peel,  a  little  fresh  lemon-peel,  a  squeeze  of  lemon- 
juice,  and  a  few  sultanas.  You  will  be  surprised. 
RHUBARB  PIES — Rhubarb  will  take  the  flavor  of 
other  fruits  very  readily,  thereby  enabling  the  cook 
to  vary  the  tarts,  etc.,  sent  to  the  table;  for  instance, 
a  little  lemon-peel  for  addition  one  day,  a  few 
blanched  and  chopped  almonds  another,  a  spoonful 
of  strawberry  jam  for  a  third  day,  plain  rhubarb  the 
next,  and  so  on.  RHUBARB  MERINGUE— Fill  a  deep 
pie-dish  with  alternate  layers  of  rhubarb,  sweet- 
ened and  seasoned  with  nutmee,  and  slices  of  stale 
sponge  cake.  Bake  twenty  minutes.  Whisk  the 
whites  of  three  eggs  thoroughly,  add  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sifted  white  sugar;  spread  this  evenly 
over  the  top.  Return  to  the  oven  for  fifteen  minutes 
to  brown.  RHUBARB  FRITTERS — Peel  young  rhu- 
barb and  cut  the  stalks  into  lengths  of  about  two 
inches,  dip  each  piece  into  batter  and  fry  in  boiling 
lard  until  a  nice  golden  brown.  Serve  fritter  very 
hot,  well  powdered  over  with  sugar.  RHUBARB 
AND  BATTER  PUDDINGS— Fill  a  buttered  pie  dish 
with  rhubarb  cut  as  for  a  tart.  Make  a  rich  batter 
with  two  or  three  eggs,  allowing  a  tablespoonful  of 
flour  to  each  egg,  and  sufficient  milk  to  form  the 
mixture  into  a  thick  cream.  IJour  it  over  the  rhu- 
barb, bake  and  serve  with  fine  white  sugar  and 
melted  butter.  RHUBARB  CHARLOTTE— Dish  lined 
with  slices  of  bread  dipped  in  butter  and  sugar, 
filled  with  cut  rhubarb  well  sugared,  covered  with 


THE  -STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


419 


bread,  baked.  RHUBARB  COMPOTE— Red  rhubarb 
cut  3  inches  long,  set  on  side  of  range  in  cold  water; 
when  scalded,  but  not  boiled,  taken  up;  the  water 
boiled  down  to  a  pint,  i  pound  sugar  added,  boiled 
to  make  syrup,  poured  over  the  rhubarb.  To  be 
served  as  other  compotes.  RHUBARB  JAM — Rhu- 
barb is  very  wholesome,  and  also  one  of  the  most 
useful  articles  of  food,  coming  in,  as  it  does,  when 
apples  go  out  of  season.  Made  into  jam  with  the 
aid  of  a  few  oranges,  it  makes  a  tasty,  useful,  and 
very  cheap  dish.  RHUBARB  CHAMPAGNE—"  When 
making  punch  for  a  party,  instead  of  champagne, 
use  a  quart  bottle  of  rhubarb  ivine.  According  to 
the  legend  of  a  friend  of  mine,  himself  a  writer  and 
expert  on  wine  subjects,  '  Lord  Haddington,  who 
was  the  greatest  wine  connoisseur  of  his  day,  could 
not  tell  champagne  from  rhubarb  wine;'  and  the 
fact  of  its  being  'rhubarb'  would  ensure  its  not 
playing  'old  gooseberry'  with  your  guests."  RHU- 
BARB WINE — To  begin  with,  choose  a  good  juicy 
kind  of  rhubarb,  the  more  delicate  and  rose-tinted 
the  growth  the  finer  will  be  the  color  of  the  wine. 
A  sherry  or  brandy  cask  is  the  best,  but  a  lager  beer 
cask  sweetened  is  not  to  be  despised.  Bruise  the 
stocks  with  a  wooden  mallet  on  a  wooden  board,  or 
with  a  fruit  crusher.  One  old  dame  at  a  village 
near  Chesterfield  who  is  celebrated  for  her  rhubarb 
wine,  and  "makes  for  the  quality,"  runs  the  rhu- 
barb through  a  wringing  machine  at  tight  tension, 
and  her  wine  soon  makes  you  "tight,"  by  the  way, 
Let  it  stand  a  day  or  so,  then  strain  off  the  juice. 
The  next  operation  is  to  sulphur  the  cask.  Take  J£ 
oz.  of  rock  sulphur,  put  it  into  a  small  iron  tube  or 
vessel,  and  lower  it  by  a  wire  into  tne  barrel ;  ignite 
it,  and  bung  up  the  cask  for  12  hours,  but  leave  the 
spile  peg  out,  so  that  a  little  air  may  get  in  to  assist 
the  process  of  combustion.  Xext  fill  the  barrel  with 
the  juice,  reserving  a  gallon  or  so  to  fill  up  the  bar- 
rel and  replace  what  is  lost  in  the  overworkings  of 
the  fermentation.  When  the  fermentation  has  sub- 
sided, add  two  pounds  of  refined  lump  sugar  to  each 
gallon  of  juice,  leave  the  bung  out  for  two  or  three 
days,  and  if  no  further  fermentation  appears,  bung 
it  up.  The  wine  should  be  kept  in  a  cool  cellar,  and 
in  three  months  it  will  be  ready  for  use  or  bottling. 
A  man  in  New  Jersey  has  for  years  made  a  specialty 
of  rhubarb  wine  and  makes  a  delightful  and  whole- 
some beverage,  for  which  he  gets  on  an  average  a 
dollar  a  gallon  by  the  barrel,  allowing  the  city  pur- 
chasers to  do  the  bottling  and  fancy  labeling.  GLACE 
EAU  DE  RHUBARBE — Rhubarb  water  ice.  TARTE 
DE  RHUBARBE— Rhubarb  open  pie. 

RICE — A  southern  luxury,  almost  a  necessity, 
and  the  cooking  of  it  is  carried  to  perfection.  How 
TO  BOIL  RICE — The  object  is  to  have  all  the  grains 
separate  when  done.  Drop  the  rice  into  plenty  of 
boiling  water;  as  the  water  is  going  to  be  drained  off, 
it  makes  no  difference  if  there  is  a  large  quantity. 
After  the  rice  has  boiled  up  once,  move  the  vessel  to 
the  side  and  let  it  simmer  until  the  grains  are  tender 
when  pinched  between  the  fingers.  Then  pour  into 


RIC 

a  seive  and  let  the  water  run  away,  put  back  the  rice 
with  some  cold  water,  wash  it  around,  drain  that  off, 
then  set  the  drained  rice  back  in  the  saucepan  at  the 
side  of  the  fire  for  the  remaining  moisture  to  steam 
through  it  and  make  it  hot  again.  Toss  it  up  with  a 
fork.  RICE  WITH  CUKRY — The  right  way  in  which 
to  serve  rice  and  curry,  as  a  second  or  final  entree  at 
the  table  is  as  follows:  From  the  dish  of  rice  passed 
round  by  the  waiter  a  helping  of  about  5  or  6  table- 
spoonfuls  should  be  taken;  the  curry,  chosen  from  a 
selection  of  at  least  three  varieties,  should  then  be 
handed  round,  and  about  I  tablespoonful  ought  to 
amply  suffice  for  the  above  mentioned  quantity  of 
rice;  chutney  may  then  be  optionally  added  on  one 
side  of  the  plate  from  a  cruet-stand  conveniently 
placed  on  the  table,  and  one  teaspoonf ul  ought  to  be 
enough.  RICE  CAKE— Baked  rice  may  be  used  as  a 
vegetable  or  as  a  dessert.  In  the  latter  case  it  may 
be  varied  by  the  addition  of  sweet  and  bitter  almonds 
pounded,  candied  cherries,  ginger  or  citron,  pre- 
served cherries  and  raisins.  RISOTTO  A  L'ITALI- 
ENNE — Plainly  boiled  rice  in  a  saucepan  with  a  lump 
of  butter,  as  much  tomato  sauce  as  the  rice  will  take 
up,  and  plenty  of  grated  cheese;  stirred  over  fire  or 
baked.  (See  Italian  Cookery.)  RICE  PUDDING — 
One  small  cup  raw  rice,  same  of  sugar,  i  qt.  milk; 
bake  in  a  dish  2  or  3  hours  without  stirring  it. 
SOUTHERN  RICE-PUDDING — One  cup  raw  rice,  i  qt. 
milk,  i  cup  sugar,  2  tablespoons  butter,  5  eggs,  fla- 
voring; rice,  milk  and  sugar  boiled  together,  other 
ingredients  mixed  in;  baked.  IMPERIAL  RICE  PUD- 
DIXG— Cold;  ornamental;  a  mould  coated  with  jelly 
and  lined  ornamentally  with  candied  fruits,  sliced, 
by  sticking  them  on  the  jelly;  boiled  rice,  whipped 
cream,  sugar,  varilla,  and  gelatine  made  up  like 
Bavarian  cream  and  filled  into  the  mould;  filling  is 
pure  white.  Riz  AUX  PRAISES — Paris  specialty. 
Boiled  rice  in  whole  grains  covered  with  sugar- 
syrup  flavored  with  orange  peel.  When  completely 
cold,  serve  it  on  a  dish  in  alternate  layers  of  rice  and 
fresh  strawberries  (uncooked).  Garnish  the  dish  by 
surrounding  the  base  of  the  pudding  with  some  of 
the  finest  strawberries.  RICE  CROQUETTES — Boiled 
rice  with  butter,  sugar  and  volks  made  into  pear- 
shapes  or  rolls,  breaded,  fried;  served  with  sauce  or 
jelly.  RICE  WITH  FRUITS — See  Apples,  Apricots, 
Peaches.  RICE  CASSOLETTES-  See  Cassolettes.  RICE 
APPI.E-DUMPLI.NOS— See  Apples.  RICE  WAFFLES- 
One  cup  cold  boiled  rice,  2  eggs,  2  tablespoons  melted 
lard,  i  pt.  milk,  i  teaspoon  salt,  i  teaspoon  baking- 
powder,  flour  to  make  a  thin  batter.  RICE-BATTER 
CAKES— Same  as  above.  RICE  MUFFINS,  OR  GEMS- 
Cold  cooked  rice  mixed  with  flour  and  milk,  etc. ; 
baked  in  gem  pans.  RICE  IN  BREAD— Rice  is  used 
as  an  adulterant  to  make  bread  carry  much  water. 
It  is  said  that  the  addition  of  4  Ibs.  rice,  boiled  with 
all  the  water  it  will  take  up,  mixed  in  the  dough  will 
make  25  Ibs.  more  bread  out  of  a  barrel  of  flour. 

RICE  FLOUR— Ground  rice  makes  white  and 
delicate  pastries.  RICE-FLOUR  CHEESECAKES-  One- 
half  pound  ground  rice,  J^  pt.  milk;  boiled  together 


420 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


RIC 

like  paste;  J£  Ib.  each  sugar  and  butter,  5  eggs,  fla- 
vor, mixed  with  the  rice-paste;  baked  in  patty-pans 
lined  with  paste.  GROUND  RICE  BUNS — One-half 
pound  each  butter,  sugar  and  rice-flour,  2  eggs,  i% 
Ibs.  flour,  i  oz.  carb.  ammonia,  J£  pt.  milk;  made  up 
like  pound-cake,  cut  off  in  rounds,  dipped  in  sugar, 
baked.  GROUND  RICE  CAKE  — Four  eggs,  J£  Ib. 
flour,  ^  Ib.  pounded  loaf-sugar,  %  Ib.  butter,  teacup 
of  ground  rice,  teaspoonful  baking-powder.  Beat 
the  eggs,  flour  and  sugar  well  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  adding  the  rice-powder  and  butter  last,  of  all. 
Bake  three  quarters  of  an  hour  in  a  hot  oven. 

RICHELIEU  GARNISH-Quenelles  of  chicken, 
cockscombs  and  slices  of  fat  livers  in  brown  onion  • 
sauce.     Dishes  finished  with  this  are  a  la  Richelieu. 

RILLETTES  DE  TOURS— Cold  cakes  of  meat  i 
of  the  head-cheese  order.  At  the  Paris  ham  fairs 
the  rillette  makers  build  up  fancy  pyramids  of  small 
rillettes  and  decorate  them.  The  cakes  are  made  as 
follows:  4  Ibs.  of  lean  meat  is  added  to  6  Ibs.  of  ba-  , 
con  or  caul,  the  whole  being  chopped  fine  and  sea- 
soned with  salt,  spices,  and  bay-leaves.  The  mix- 
ture is  then  cooked  in  a  vessel,  care  being  taken  to 
stir  it  until  it  is  finished,  to  prevent  pieces  attaching 
to  the  bottom  of  the  saucepan.  The  fat  is  skimmed 
off,  the  meat  chopped,  put  into  earthenware  dishes, 
the  liquor  poured  over.  Eaten  cold. 

RISSOLES— Rissole  and  croquette  both  signify 
about  the  same  thing,  something  crisp.  The  dif- 
ference usually  observed  is  to  make  the  rissole  with 
a  coat  of  flour  paste,  the  croquette  with  a  coat  of 
egg  and  bread-crumbs  or  cracker  meal.  The  dis- 
tinctions are  not  always  observed,  however.  A  ris- 
sole is  a  portion  of  minced  meat  combination  rolled 
up  in  a  thin  coat  of  pie-paste  and  fried  in  a  kettle 
of  hot  lard.  RISSOLES  A  LA  Roi — Minced  olives  and 
truffles  and  hard-boiled  yolks  and  whites;  spoonfuls 
inclosed  in  turnovers  of  pie-paste;  egged,  breaded, 
fried.  Garnished  with  lemons  and  cress. 
RISSOLETTES— Small  or  fancy-shaped  rissoles. 
RIS  (Fr.)  — Sweetbread.  Ris  DE  VEAU— Calfs' 
sweetbread.  Ris  D'AGNEAU — Lambs'  sweetbread. 
RIZ  (Fr.)— Rice. 

RIZZERED  HADDIE— See  Scottish  Cookery. 
ROACHES— The  most  successful  means  of  des- 
troying or  banishing  roaches  from  a  building  seem 
to  be:  (/)-Borax  thrown  around  plentifully  where 
they  run,  which  is  near  where  water  is  to  be  found, 
for  roaches  drink  greedily.  (See  Borax).  But  it  is 
an  indispensable  condition  that  borax  -be  freshly 
powdered  and  very  fine.  The  roaches  do  not  eat  it 
but  it  kills  them  by  adhering  to  their  feet  and  they 
die  in  the  efforts  to  get  rid  of  it.  (a)-Phosphorus 
paste  (ju/iich  see)  is  the  only  effectual  means  which 
others  have  found.  (j)-Red  lead  and  flour  in  equal 
quantities  mixed  together.  The  paste  to  be  spread 
on  pieces  of  paper  and  distributed  about  the  places 
infested.  (^)-Cucutnber  peel  thrown  around  their 
haunts.  They  eat  it  for  the  sake  of  the  water  it 


ROL 

contains  and  it  kills,  (j)- Boiling  water  thrown  per- 
severingly  into  the  cracks  and  crevices  where  they 
harbor.  Insect  powder  does  not  kill,  onlv  stupefies 
the  insects  for  a  few  hours  and  they  survive  and 
continue  business.  The  borax  and  phosphorus  paste 
and  the  hot  water  seem  to  have  the  highest  testi- 
mony as  to  their  success  in  exterminating. 

ROBIXS — Cooked  with  a  slice  of  bacon  over  the 
breast,  served  on  toast  in  the  usual  way  of  all  small 
birds. 

ROCKY  MOUNTAIN  OYSTERS  —  Lambs' 
fries. 

ROCK  BUNS — Rough  rocky  looking  cakes  made 
of  y±  Ib.  each  butter,  sugar  and  currants,  3  eggs,  3 
Ibs.  flour,  ^  pt.  milk,  J^  oz.  carb.  ammonia  dissolved 
in  milk.  Makes  stiff  dough,  pieces  pulled  off  rough 
with  a  fork  baked  on  greased  pans.  ROCK  CAKE — 
%  Ib.  each  butter,  sugar  and  currants,  3  eggs,  2£  Ib. 
flour,  baked  in  a  mould. 

ROCK  SUGAR— This  is  the  candy  rock  work 
used  to  build  up  ornamental  pieces  of  confectionery 
and  to  sell  as  sponge  candy;  it  can  be  made  of  all 
colors  and  flavors:  Boil  a  pint  of  clarified  sugar  in 
a  copper  earthenware  pan  to  the  degree  of  crackled, 
( See  Sugar  Boiling)  ;  use  no  acid  in  the  boiling  of 
this;  remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  well  mix  into  it  a 
tablespoonful  of  icing,  by  stirring  it  in  briskly  with 
vour  skimmer.  As  soon  as  the  sugar  and  icing  is  well 
mixed,  and  rises  up  like  froth,  put  it  into  a  papered 
sieve,  or  into  an  oiled  tin  or  mould,  and  when  quite 
cold,  break  it  in  pieces.  If  you  have  not  any  icing 
ready  made,  mix  some  sifted  loaf  sugar  with  the 
white  of  an  egg,  until  it  is  quite  thick,  put  in  a  table- 
spoonful,  and  it  will  answer  the  purpose  of  icing. 
If  you  want  it  colored,  mix  the  coloring  in  with  the 
icing.  "  And  now  we  come  to  the  finest  piece  in  the 
group,  described  in  the  catalogue  as  '  Stronghold 
Caske,  in  piped  sugar  ornamental  work,  on  a  rock 
made  of  (souffle)  sugar."  Souffl6  sugar — or  as  it  was 
called  in  our  young  days,  '  Queen's  bread,'— always 
makes  a  good  bed  for  an  ornamental  piece  of  this 
kind,  and  in  this  case  greatly  enhanced  the  beauty 
of  the  castle  above."  (See  Hints  on  Sugar.) 

ROES  OF  FISH— Shad  roes  bring  the  highest 
prices,  mullet  and  carp  roes  are  as  good  except  in 
the  one  particular  of  color,  they  are  not  so  white 
when  cooked.  SHAD  ROES  FRIED — Seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  rolled  in  flour,  then  egged  and 
breaded,  fried  in  little  fat  in  frying  pan  to  prevent 
curling;  tomato  sauce.  SHAD  ROES  A  LA  MAITRE 
D'HOTEL  —  Steeped  in  oil  with  onion,  seasoned, 
broiled,  served  with  maitre  d"1  hotel  butter.  ROES 
AUX  FINES  HERBES— Shad  or  other  roes  in  a  bak- 
ing pan  with  chopped  mushrooms,  onion  and  parsley, 
and  salt  and  pepper  strewed  under  and  over,  broth 
and  wine,  simmered  together  in  slow  oven,  sauce 
made  in  the  pan.  (See  Laitances.) 

ROGXOXS  (Fr.)— Kidneys. 

ROLY-POLY    PUDDINGS  —  Favorite    kind, 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


421 


ROM 

boiled  or  steamed;  made  by  rolling  out  a  sheet  of 
paste  (either  short  paste,  biscuit  dough,  or  a  special 
flaky  sort  made  by  the  puff- paste  method,  but  less  i 
rich),  covering  with  a  layer  of  chopped  apples  or 
any  fruit  or  mixture,  rolling  up  in  a  cloth  and  steam- 
ing an  hour  or  two.  Every  sort  of  fruit  can  be  used, 
and  mixtures  of  many  kinds,  from  molasses  thick- 
ened with  flour  to  fine  lemon  mince  meat. 

ROMAN  PIE— Italian  lunch  dish.  Boil  a  good- 
sized  rabbit;  cut  all  the  meat  off  as  thin  as  possible 
and  pound  it.  Add  2  oz.  of  grated  cheese,  2  oz.  of 
macaroni  stewed  till  quite  tender,  and  a  little  onion 
chopped  fine;  pepper,  salt  and  allspice;  line  a  mould 
with  good  paste  and  put  in  above  well  mixed ;  bake 
for  an  hour,  turn  out,  and  serve  cold.  Truffles  and 
grated  ham  or  tongue  improve  the  pie. 

ROMAN  PUNCH— Punch  of  rum  and  lemons 
with  additions;  soft-frozen  likegraitito.  SUPERIOR 
ROMAN  PUNCH — Mix  and  freeze  2  qts.  of  lemon  wa- 
ter ice;  a  few  minutes  before  serving,  work  in  with 
the  spatula  2  glasses  of  rum,  2  of  brandy,  2  of 
sherry,  %  bottle  of  champagne,  and  5  whites  of  me- 
ringue; serve  in  glasses. 

ROOK — A  species  of  crow;  the  young  are  eaten, 
generally  in  the  form  of  rook  pie. 

ROQUEFORT  CHEESE  —  Wen-known  im- 
ported cheese  of  a  dry  and  solid  sort  and  high  flavor. 
It  is  ranked  among  the  choice  comestibles  for  high- 
priced  tables.  Can  be  bought  at  the  fancy  grocery 
stores  at  about  double  the  price  of  American  cheese ; 
size  about  6  or  S  Ibs.  This  cheese  is  made  of  sheeps' 
milk.  "  Roquefort,  in  Aveyron,  France,  has  been 
celebrated  for  generations  on  account  of  its  caves 
ana  cheeses;  these  two  items  are  inseparable,  for 
without  the  caves  the  cheeses  would  be  nowhere, 
and  rice  -versa.  All  round  the  country  is  rich  in  de- 
lightful pasture  lands  and  hilly  grounds,  affording 
splendid  fodder  for  the  sheep,  which,  reared  in  hun- 
dreds of  thousands,  develop  udders  of  exceptional 
size,  and  yield  an  appreciable  quantity  of  milk.  The 
ewes'  milk  is  converted  into  fine  cream  cheeses,  and 
these  are  disposed  in  alternate  layers  with  a  sprink- 
ling of  powder,  made  from  a  special  kind  of  brown 
bread,  which  has  been  subjected  to  the  attacks  of  a 
particular  kind  of  mould,  peculiar  to  Roquefort. 
The  farmers  who  make  these  'loaves,'  as  they  are 
now  called,  dispose  of  them  to  the  celebrated  nta- 
turers  in  the  town,  the  Societ6  des  Caves  Reunies. 
The  cheeses  on  reaching  the  caves  are  brushed,  and 
then  pierced  through  their  substance  with  numerous 
minute  holes,  by  means  of  elaborate  machinery. 
They  are  then  set  aside  in  the  caves  to  ripen,  and  it 
is  an  undeniable  fact  that  nowhere  else  in  the  world 
will  the  peculiar  fungus  grow  and  impart  such  a 
toothsome  flavor  to  the  cheese  as  in  these  caves." 

ROSSINI  (a  la) — The  composer  Rossini  was  a 
noted  gourmet  and  particularly  fond  of  truffles;  the 
few  dishes  occasionally  met  with  a  la  Rossini,  are 
distinguished  by  having  a  plentiful  truffle  garnish. 
His  favorite,  dish  of  macaroni  with  truffles  it  was  said 


RUF 

ought  to  h^ve  been  called  truffles  with  a  little  maca- 
roni; his  favorite  salad  was  sliced  truffles  with 
dressing. 

ROUGET  (Fr.>— Red  mullet.     (See  Mullet.) 

ROUELLE  DE  BCEUF  (Fr.)— Round  of  beef. 

ROULADES — Steaks  rolled  up  with  seasonings 
and  strips  of  fat  bacon  inside,  tied,  fried  outside, 
broth  added,  stewed  an  hour  or  two,  gravy  made  in 
same  saucepan.  Served  with  various  garnishes. 

ROUND  OF  BEEF-"A  round  of  boiled  beef  pre- 
sents a  tempting  appearance  when  garnished  a  la 
foret  de  Senart,  Tie  up  some  large  branches  of 
parsley  into  bunches,  and  fry ;  place  these  as  close 
as  possible  round  the  joint  of  beef,  so  as  to  give  the 
appearance  of  a  forest. 

ROUX — Butter-and-flour  thickening  for  gravies 
and  soups.  It  is  the  beginning  of  several  sauces. 
Butter  and  flour  in  about  equal  measure,  but  not 
very  particular  proportions,  are  stirred  in  a  small 
saucepan  over  the  fire  together.  WHITE  Roux— 
The  above  when  it  bubbles  and  has  cooked  two  or 
three  minutes  is  done,  ready  to  have  water  added  to 
it  to  make  sauce  or  thicken  soups,  fricassees,  etc. 
BROWN  Roux — The  same  allowed  to  brown  in  the 
pan  or  in  the  oven,  used  for  brown  sauces  and  stews. 

ROWAN  JELLY— Rowan  jelly,  made  from  the 
berries  of  the  mountain-ash,  is  by  many  preferred  to 
red -currant  jelly,  as  an  accompaniment  to  roast  mut- 
ton, game,  etc. 

ROYAL  CUSTARDS  FOR  SOUPS  —  These 
have  come  to  be  so  called  from  their  being  the  one 
showy  adjunct  to  "Consomme  Royale."  They  are 
pieces  cut  in  some  regular  shape  out  of  a  cake  of 
cooked  egg  that  is  like  an  omelet  steamed  instead  of 
fried;  made  by  well  mixing  eggs  with  a  little  broth 
or  milk,  pouring  it  into  a  buttered  pan  and  steaming 
or  setting  in  boiling  water.  PRECAUTIONS — The 
custard  is  wanted  to  be  solid  and  firm,  not  porous 
and  crumbly,  therefore  the  mixture  must  not  be 
beaten  light  and  must  not  be  cooked  with  furious 
boiling;  it  should  be  set  gradually  at  gentle  heat. 
When  cooked  and  cold  it  is  turned  out  of  the  pan  and 
cut  in  diamonds  or  cubes,  or  lozenges  as  wanted. 
VARIETIES  OF  CUSTARDS  • —  (i)  They  are  made  of 
eggs  with  a  little  seasoned  broth  mixed  in.  (2) 
With  eggs  and  cream.  (3)  With  eggs  and  fish 
broth.  (4)  With  egg-yolks  and  broth,  etc.  (5) 
With  egg-whites  and  broth,  etc.,  —  making  two 
colors  and  kinds.  (6)  With  eggs  or  yolks  mixed 
with  pounded  chicken  meat.  (7)  With  eggs  or 
yolks  mixed  with  chopped  mushrooms,  onions  and 
parsley.  (8)  Green  with  eggs  and  pur£e  of  spinach. 
(9)  Pink  with  eggs  and  red  lobster  or  crayfish  but- 
ter, ('o)  They  are  cooked  in  small  ornamental 
thimble  moulds. 
ROYANS — Selected  sardines;  a  superior  sort. 

RUFFS  AND  REEVES— There  are  some  small 
birds  called  ruffs  and  reeves,  found  in  the  fenny 
counties  of  England,  and  which  doubtless,  in  some 


422 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


RUS 

variety  or  other,  are  inhabitants  of  the  United 
States.  The  ruff  is  the  male,  the  reeve  the  female; 
they  are  so  named  from  the  ruffled  appearance  of  the 
feathers  of  the  neck.  The  most  delicate  and  highly 
valued  of  all  small  water  fowl,  they  are  made  so  by 
the  treatment  to  which  they  are  subjected.  They 
are  taken  alive  and  fattened  for  two  weeks  on  boiled 
wheat,  or  boiled  bread  and  milk  mixed  with  hemp 
seed.  The  secret  of  thus  fattening1  ruffs  and  reeves 
was  discovered  by  the  Yorkshire  monks  in  the 
Middle  Ages;  but  birds  so  treated  are  still  extrava- 
gantly dear,  and  considered  superlative  luxuries. 

RUSKS — (i)  Slices  of  sweet  loaf  bread  toasted 
dry  in  the  oven.  (2)  Slices  of  cake  such  as  sponge 
cake  with  caraway  seed,  dried  and  toasted  in  the 
oven.  These  were  eaten  as  sweet  crackers  now  are 
for  lunches  and  with  wine.  (3)  American  and  Ger- 
man bakers  make  sweetened  rolls  which  are  sold  by 
the  name  of  rusks,  fresh  baked.  (4)  Several  grades 
of  buns,  yellow  and  rich,  known  by  several  names 
across  the  water,  are  made  in  this  country  under  the 
one  common  name  of  rusks;  eaten  warm. 

RUSSIAN'  COOKERY— The  Russians  are  great 
soup  eaters.  Amongst  their  most  favorite  potages 
may  be  mentioned  Vesiga  soup  and  cucumber  soup. 
RUSSIAN  VESIOA  SOUP — The  Vesiga  is  a  gelatinous 
substance  that  envelopes  the  backbone  of  the  stur- 
geon. It  is  sold  in  a  dry  state,  and  bears  some  re- 
semblance to  Russian  isinglass.  Before  using,  it 
should  be  soaked  several  hours  in  water,  and  then 
boiled  in  some  light  broth  until  it  becomes  quite 
tender.  It  is  then  cut  in  pieces  about  one  inch  long, 
and  served  in  a  clear  consomme  with  or  without  the 
addition  of  vegetables  cut  in  fancy  shapes.  The 
Vesiga  soup  is  considered  in  Russia  as  very  nutri- 
tious and  wholesome.  RUSSIAN  ROSSOLNICK — Cu- 
cumber soup  prepared  with  salted  preserved  cucum- 
bers (a  dainty  dish  in  Russia).  It  is  made  as  fol- 
lows: Cut  four  or  five  salted  cucumbers  into  squares 
or1  lozenges  of  uniform  size,  and  boil  them  in  water 
until  done.  Boil,  likewise,  some  parsley  root  and 
celerv  cut  in  pieces  one  inch  long.  Prepare  a  chicken 
broth  with  two  young  chickens,  and  when  ready  to 
serve,  put  the  cucumbers,  the  parsley  root,  the  cele- 
ry and  the  cut  up  chicken  into  the  soup-tureen,  and 
pour  over  the  whole  the  chicken  broth,  which  has 
been  previously  thickened  with  six  yolks  of  eggs 
mixed  with  cream  RUSSIAN  CAVIARE — A  national 
relish  deservedly  popular  in  Europe  is  caviare, 
which  is  simply  the  roe  of  the  sturgeon.  It  is  served 
generally  with  dried  toast,  and  handed  after  dinner 
with  the  cheese.  BEAR'S  PAWS  ALA  RUSSE— An- 
other national  dish  considered  as  a  great  delicacy 
in  St  Petersburg  is  bears'  paws.  They  are  first 
skinned,  washed,  and  put  into  a  marinade  for  sev- 
eral days.  Then  the}-  are  cooked  in  a  mirepoix,  and 
when  done  put  away  to  get  cold.  When  wanted  to 
serve,  the  paw  is  cut  into  four  pieces  lengthways; 
egged,  breadcrumbed  and  broiled.  A  sharp  sauce, 
such  as  poivrade,  piquante,  or  Robert  sauce  is 


SAC 

served  with  it.  RUSSIAN  APPETIZERS  — There 
is  just  at  the  present  time  a  craze  among  the  Par- 
isians of  the  haut  ton  for  things  Russian  which 
i  extends  to  the  dishes  at  table.  At  not  a  few  good 
houses  the  sideboards  are  now  garnished  with  the 
Ziikitska.  which  always  forms  the  preface  to  a  Rus- 
sian dinner.  The  Zukuska  consists  as  a  rule  of  ca- 
viare, herring,  anchovies,  smoked  goose,  smoked 
•  sausage  and  cheese.  These  delicacies  are  served  on 
I  little  enameled  plates.  The  guests  are  supposed  to 
go  to  the  sideboard  and  help  themselves  at  pleasure, 
drinking  a  little  glass  of  bitters  or  vodka,  English 
gin,  or  even  kummel,  to  stimulate  their  appetite. 
When  this  has  been  sufficiently  provoked,  the  com 
pany  take  their  seats  at  the  table,  where  good  Rus- 
sophiles  serve  a  soup  prepared  from  the  sterlet,  a 
fish  caught  in  the  Volga.  There  is  another  soup, 
which  is  said  to  be  a  great  favorite  with  the  Czar 
and  his  family.  This  is  the  savory  "shtshi,"  the 
quintessence  of  all  national  soups,  and  which  ac- 
cording to  a  Frenchman  lately  come  from  St.  Pe 
tersburg  is  prepared  thuswise:  Take  a  large  and 
juicy  piece  of  mutton,  boil  it  down  with  juicy  pieces 
of  beef,  and  an  unlimited  number  of  onions,  garlic, 
herbs,  beets  and  spices;  and  serve  the  same,  cut  in 
small  cubes.  In  Poland,  a  similar  mixtum  composi- 
lum  is  called  "borshtsh,"  on  which  the  Russian 
looks  down  with  sovereign  contempt.  Another 
soup,  which  is  frequently  put  upon  the  Imperial 
table,  is  called  •'  okroska,"  a  sort  of  mush  or  cold  de- 
coction of  pears,  apples,  plums  and  oat  grits,  with  an 
admixture  of  small  pieces  of  meat,  herring  and  cu- 
cumbers floating  therein.  The  Czar  greatly  affects 
chicken  cutlets  a  la  Poskarki,  i.e.  a  chicken  chopped 
very  fine  and  roasted  with  slices  of  bread  and  eggs, 
served  up  in  the  shape  of  a  cutlet;  also  pork  boiled 
in  milk,  eaten  with  a  highly  spiced  gravy.  Other 
favorite  dishes  of  the  autocrat  are  fish  prepared  in  an 
infinite  variety  of  ways,  and  a  rich  and  spicy  gravy 
called  a  la  Samoyede  (the  latter  being  one  of  the 
great  secrets  of  the  Imperial  kitchen),  cucumbers  in 
vinegar,  and  capons.  All  these  dishes  are  now  at- 
tempted in  Paris.  (See  Coulibiac,  Russian  Salad, 
soufs.) 

S. 

SABA  YON  OR  SAMBAONE— A  custard  con- 
taining wine,  whipped;  a  foaming  pudding  sauce. 

SABATIER  KNIVES— A  special  and  favorite 
shape  of  cooks'  knives,  the  name  -s  that  of  the 
original  Paris  manufacturer. 

SACCHARINE — The  new  sweetening  substance 
obtained,  like  the  aniline  elves,  from  coal-tar,  and 
said  to  possess  300  times  the  sweeting  power  of 
sugar.  It  is  a  white  powder,  and  although  in  the 
crude  state  insoluble  in  water,  is  supplied  in  a  solu- 
ble form.  A  grain  or  so  is  sufficient  to  sweeten  a 
cup  of  tea  or  coffee,  and  as  saccharine  passes  through 
the  system  unchanged,  it  would  be  of  special  value 
to  diabetic  patients  and  others  to  whom  sugaris  ab- 
solutely harmful.  The  new  sweetener  possesses  an- 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


423 


SAC 

tiseptic  properties,  and  is  a  powerful  anti-ferment, 
and  hence  should  be  useful  as  a  sugar  substitute  to 
jam-boilers  and  fruit -preservers.  Weare  not  aware 
that  it  has  been  experimented  with  in  this  direction, 
for  truth  to  say,  "saccharine"  is  as  yet  only  an  in- 
teresting laboratory  product  rather  than  a  commer- 
cial article. 

SACCHAROMETER— A  graduated  glass  tube 
for  testing  boiling  sugar.  (See  Sugar.) 

S  AFFRON-The  petals  of  a  flowering  plant  dried. 
There  are  two  kinds  which  answer  the  same  pur- 
poses of  giving  the  color  of  eggs  to  cake  and  various 
culinary  preparations.  Can  be  purchased  put  in  tin 
boxes  at  the  drug  stores.  It  has  been  very  exten- 
sively employed  both  in  medicine  and  cookery  in 
ancient  t'ines  and  even  more  recently  through  an 
exaggerated  estimate  of  its  virtues  but  its  use  has 
very  nearly  died  out.  The  method  of  usiig  is  to 
make  tea  of  a  pinch  of  the  saffron,  which  is  then 
added  to  the  dough  for  buns  or  cake,  or  the  rish  stew 
or  dish  of  rice,  in  which  ways  it  is  still  regularly 
used  in  Creole  and  in  Italian  and  Spanish  cookery. 

SAGE  LEAVES — Leaves  of  a  common  garden 
plant;  easily  grown  and  perennial.  Can  be  bought 
in  a  dried  and  pressed  state  in  pachages.  Best  flavor- 
ing for  pork,  sausages,  goose  and  tame  duck. 

SAGE  CHEESE— A  cheese  of  the  customary 
American  York  State  or  Western  Reserve  sort  is 
sometimes  to  be  met  with  streaked  and  marbled  all 
through  with  sage  leaves  which  have  been  pounded 
to  a  pulp  and  added  to  the  curd  of  which  the  cheese 
is  made.  The  peculiar  flavor  of  this  sage  cheese  is 
much  admired  generally,  although  the  distrust  with 
•which  Americans  look  upon  "mouldy"  cheese  brings 
this  under  the  suspicion  of  those  who  do  not  know 
its  nature  and  makes  it  unsuitable  for  hotel  tables. 

SAGO — Made  from  the  pith  of  a  palm  tree  which 
grows  in  the  East  Indies.  Each  tree  will  yield  from 
800  to  1,000  pounds  of  sago.  It  is  nearly  pure  starch. 
There  are  imitation  sagos  in  the  market  made  of 
some  cheaper  sort  of  starch;  the  difference  becomes 
apparent  in  cooking  as  the  imitations  dissolve  and 
the  form  of  the  grain  disappears;  the  puddings 
then  become  thin  and  watery.  Is  cooked  in  all  the 
same  ways  as  tapioca,  in  most  of  the  same  ways  as 
rice  and  in  soups. 

SAIBLING— Name  often  met  with  in  Continen- 
tal menus.  "  The  best  and  most  delicate  fish  to  be 
had  in  Vienna  are  the  different  species  of  trout,  one 
of  which  I  have  never  seen  elsewhere,  though  it 
certainly  surpasses  in  flavor  the  ordinary  kind.  It 
goes  in  this  country  by  the  name  of  saiblinff  " 

SALADS,  AMERICAN— The  three  American 
salads  are  raw  tomatoes,  lettuce,  and  chicken  salad. 
There  are  other  favorites  and  nearly  all  varieties  are 
eaten  when  offered  but  the  distinction  in  regard  to 
these  is  that  they  are  wanted,  missed  and  called  for 
if  not  furnished,  and  missed  by  all.  Celery  can 
hardly  be  classed  as  a  salad  as  it  is  always  eaten 


SAL 

plain  with  salt,  it  comes  next  in  the  list  of  universal 
favorites,  however,  and  then  may  be  instanced  the 
potato  salad  of  thinly  sliced  potato,  with  parsley, 
oil,  vinegar,  onion  juice,  pepper  and  salt.  After 
these  the  lobster  salad,  and,  a  degree  less  com- 
mon and  more  expensive,  the  shrimp  salad,  and 
then  for  lunch  or  supper  another  potato  salad  of 
sliced  potatos  in  a  yellow  creamy  dressing  made  of 
cooked  yolks,  butter,  raw  yolks,  cream  and  vinegar, 
parsley,  pepper,  mustard,  salt;  the  butter  and  cream 
being  the  substitute  for  oil.  The  taste  for  oil  is 
soon  acquired  but  as  salad  oil  is  not  an  article  of 
general  household  consumption  throughout  the 
country  it  is  anything  but  acceptable  to  the  people 
who  first  try  the  stronger  salads  at  the  hotels.  Still 
the  practiced  diner  in  general  prides  himself  upon 
his  aptitude  at  mixing  his  salad  upon  his  own  plate, 
making  the  dressing  from  the  contents  of  the  cruet- 
stands  and  usually  the  hard-boiled  egg  which  he 
finds  upon  the  top  of  the  dish  of  lettuce;  sometimes 
he  must  have  a  raw  egg  and  with  oil,  mus'ard, 
vinegar  and  seasonings,  compounds  his  own  mayon- 
naise. However,  this  more  elaborate  dressing  can 
generally  be  obtained  from  the  chefs  department 
and  in  most  hotels  there  is  at  least  one  salad  each 
day  dressed  with  mayonnaise  and  decorated  before 
it  is  served.  SAID  ABOUT  SALADS — "In  strolling 
through  the  central  markets  of  Paris  recently  we 
were  struck  with  the  variety  of  salad  ing  displayed 
on  the  vegetable  stalls.  There  is  an  old  French 
book  describing  the  300  salads  of  Father  Matthew, 
and  it  is  said,  and  with  truth,  that  a  Frenchman 
may  have  a  different  salad  -for  every  day  of  the  year. 
The  proper  moment  for  serving  and  eating  green 
salads  is  with  roast  meat,  and  more  particularly  with 
the  game  or  poultry  of  the  second  course.  There  are 
people  who,  without  being  professed  vegetarians, 
would  rather  eat  a  salad  without  meat  than  meal: 
without  asalad."  A  NATION  DESTITUTE  OF  SALAD 
BowL6-"It  is  a  matter  of  hard  fact  that  a  salad-bowl 
is  a  thing  unknown  to  999  out  of  1,000  eating-houses 
in  England.  In  private  houses  and  in  clubs  of  course 
it  is  to  be  found,  because  English  gentlemen  of  the 
class  who  belong  to  clubs  know  that  a  salad  to  be 
enjoyed  must  be  mixed,  and  that  it  cannot  be  pro- 
perly mixed  without  a  good-sized  bowl.  But  let  us 
go  into  one  of  Spiers  and  Pond's  establishments — and 
in  sing!  ing  them  out  I  pay  them  a  compliment.  They 
are  at  the  head  of  their  profession,  they  have  de- 
served well  of  the  public,  and  if  they  fail  in  any  point 
we  may  be  sure  that  the  failure  belongs  not  to  them 
individually,  but  to  the  English  system.  I  have  not 
been  to  all  their  establishments,  but  in  those  I  have 
visited  this  is  what  I  find.  They  keep  an  immense 
bowl  on  the  buffet,  crammed  with  a  confusion  of 
salad -herbs  soaking  in  water.  You  ask  for  a  salad. 
The  waiter  brings  you  a  wet  lettuce  cut  in  halves 
upon  a  flat  plate,  and  he  puts  down  beside  it  an  an- 
nulated  bottle,  full  of  the  abominable  compound 
known  as  salad -mixture.  You  politely  hint  to  the 
waiter,  first  of  all,  that  you  prefer  not  to  touch  his 


424 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


SAL 

prepared  mixture.  He  takes  it  away,  wounded  in 
his  feelings,  and  assumes  that  you  are  going  to  eat 
the  lettuce  •\yith  salt.  You  next  make  a  demand  for 
oil  and  vinegar,  and  try  to  explain  that  a  salad  to  be 
properly  mixed  must,  according  to  the  saying,  he 
mixed  by  a  madman ;  it  cannot,  therefore,  be  mixed 
on  a  flat  plate.  The  waiter  then  brings  a  soup-plate; 
if  you  are  not  satisfied  with  that,  he  brings  a  vege- 
table-dish, then  perhaps  a  slop-basin;  and  if  you  are 
still  discontended,  he  tries  you  last  of  all  with  a 
soup-tureen.  As  for  a  salad-bowl — which  one  can 
get  at  once  in  the  paltriest  French  restaurant — it  is 
not,  as  a  rule,  to  be  found  in  the  splendidly  fur- 
nished establishments  of  Spiers  and  Pond.  This 
simply  means  that  a  salad  properly  prepared  does 
not  belong  to  the  English  system  of  the  table,  and 
does  not  enter  into  the  calculations  of  those  who 
cater  for  it  in  public.  I  sometimes  at  English  inns 
manage  to  get  a  salad-bowl  by  asking  for  a  punch- 
bowl. Mine  host  is  nearly  always  prepared  to  make 
punch,  though  he  does  not  know  what  a  salad  is." 
THE  TRUE  LETTUCE  SALAD— "Sir  Henry  Thomp- 
son, in  his  little  work,  gives  a  short  and  clear  de- 
scription how  to  make  this:  The  materials  must  be 
secured  fresh,  are  not  to  be  too  numerous  and  diverse, 
must  be  well  cleansed  and  washed  without  handling, 
and  all  water  removed  as  far  as  possible.  It  should 
be  made  immediately  before  the  meal,  and  be  kept 
cool  until  wanted.  Very  few  servants  can  be  trusted 
to  execute  the  simple  details  involved  in  cross-cut- 
ting the  lettuce  endive  or  what  not  but  two  or  three 
times  in  a  roomy  salad-bowl;  in  placing  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  halfHhat  quantity  of  pepper  in 
a  tablespoon,  which  is  to  be  filled  three  times  con- 
secutively with  the  best  fresh  olive-oil,  stirring  each 
briskly  until  the  condiments  have  been  thoroughly 
mixed,  and  at  the  same  time  distributed  over  the 
salad.  This  is  next  to  be  tossed  well,  but  lightly, 
until  every  portion  glistens,  scattering  meantime  a 
little  finely-chopped  fresh  tarragon  and  chervil;  with 
a  few  atoms  of  chives  over  the  whole.  Lastly,  but 
only  immediately  before  serving,  one  small  table- 
spoonful  of  mild  French  or  better  still  Italian  wine- 
vinegar  is  to  be  sprinkled  over  all,  followed  by  an- 
other tossing  of  the  salad."  SUMMER  SALADS — 
(/)  Dissolve  half  a  teaspoonful  of  white  or  brown 
sugar  in  a  tablespoonful  of  plain  vinegar;  add  three 
drops  of  tarragon  vinegar,  and  cayenne  and  salt  to 
taste.  Break  up  a  lettuce  or  endive  wiped  very  dry, 
and  add  about  half  teaspoonful  of  chopped  chives; 
pour  over  the  lettuce  a  tablespoonful  of  oil,  and  well 
mix  it  about  with  a  wooden  spoon  or  fork;  then 
sprinkle  the  vinegar -mixture  over  and  turn  all  well 
about  again.  Garnish  with  slices  of  cucumber  cut 
thin,  or  raw  tomatoes  cut  in  quarters.  (2)  A  fresh 
lettuce  washed  and  wiped  dry,  chopped  tarragon  orv 
mint,  a  few  young  onions  or  chives,  and  half  a  cu- 
cumber. Put  into  a  salad-bowl  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  oil,  a  saltspoon  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pep- 
per, a  dessertspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  and  a  dessert- 
spoon of  vinegar.  Then  add  the  chopped  mint  or 


SAL 

tarragon  and  the  onions;  lastly,  the  lettuce  broken 
up  into  small  pieces,  and  stir  all  together,  turning 
the  lettuce  over  well.  Garnish  with  slices  of  cu- 
cumber, (j)  One  raw  egg  well  beaten  up,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  oil,  a  teaspoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar, 
and  a  dessertspoonful  of  plain  vinegar.  Mix  well 
together;  break  up  a  lettuce,  pour  the  mixtuie  over 
it,  and  turn  it  about  thoroughly.  (4)  Two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  salad  oil;  break  three  eggs,  drop  them 
into  the  oil,  well  beat  them  up  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
tarragon  vinegar  and  ^i  dessertspoonful  of  cream; 
mix  and  pour  over  the  lettuce.  This  mixture  will 
keep  for  several  weeks  if  bottled  and  tightly  corked 
UP-  (5)  Cut  up  a  cucumber  into  very  thin  shccs. 
drain  off  all  the  water  that  comes  from  it  by  pressing 
the  cut  slices  between  two  plates;  mix  a  tablespoon- 
ful of  oil  with  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  add  pep- 
per and  salt,  and  pour  over  the  sliced  cucumber. 
(0)  Take  three  or  four  fine  raw  tomatoes,  cut  them 
up  into  quarters  or  halves;  make  a  dressing  of  a  ta- 
blespoonful of  oil,  another  of  vinegar,  a  teaspoonful 
of  tarragon  vinegar,  and  a  dessertspoonful  of  sugar; 
pour  it  over  the  tomatoes;  garnish  with  watercress. 
All  salads  should  be  made  about  half  an  hour  or  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  before  they  are  to  be  eaten. 
Hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  slices  may  in  all  cases  be 
used  for  garnishing.  "The  presentation  to  Lord 
Tennyson  by  Messrs.  Spiers  and  Pond,  of  a  '  pint 
pot  neatly  graven,'  from  the  now  demolished  Cock 
Tavern,  has  evoked  a  fresh  crop  of  gossip  anent 
that  Fleet  Street  rendezvous.  Mr.  Sala  has,  of 
course,  joined  in,  and  this  is  his  amusing  mem.:  'I 
recollect  the  plump  head-waiter  at  the  Cock— Ten- 
nyson's plump  head-waiter;  or,  at  least,  his  twin 
brother,  or  his  only  son,  who  was  the  very  image  of 
his  father.  With  Mr.  H.  Sutherland  Edwards  I  went 
one  day,  ever  so  many  years  ago,  to  "chop"  at  the 
Cock.  'Twas  July,  and  the  weather  would  have 
suited  a  salamander.  Mr.  Edwards  fancied  a  nice 
cool  salad  with  his  cutlet — he  was  an  adept  at  salad 
mixing — and  asked  the  waiter  for  a  cold  hard-boiled 
egg.  "A  hegg!"  ejaculated  the  obese  servitor,  "a 
hegg!  Hif  Prince  Halbert  was  to  come  to  the  Cock, 
he  couldn't  have  a  hegg!"  The  plump  Conservatism 
of  the  Cock  prescribed  oil  and  vinegar  as  the  sole 
sauce  for  salad;  hard-boiled  eggs  were  scouted  and 
banished  as  things  only  fit  for  foreigners  and  Radi- 
cals.' "  NEST  EGGS — "This  specialty,  which  \ve 
owe  to  American  inventiveness,  would  certainly  be 
attractive  amongst  cold  dishes  for  the  hot  weather. 
Its  preparation  is  as  follows:  Take  a  quantity  of 
fresh  spring  onions,  or,  if  preferred,  water-cresses, 
or  mustard  and  cress,  or,  indeed,  all  three,  using  the 
onions  sparingly  if  objected  to,  and  construct  out  of 
this  greenery,  in  a  large  deep  circular  plate  or  howl, 
the  nearest  semblance  of  a  bird's  nest  which  the 
cook's  ingenuity  can  arrange.  Then  place  in  its 
midst  some  hard-boiled  eggs,  whole,  but  shelled  of 
course,  alternately  with  some  pats  or  rolls  of  cream- 
cheese  of  the  same  size  and  shape  as  the  eggs. 
Milk-cheese  may  be  used,  and  is  sometimes  pre- 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


425 


SAL 

ferred,  whilst  it  is  often  easier  of  manipulation  into 
the  proper  form  than  that  consisting  entirely  of 
creai.i.  In  serving  this  dish,  a  pat  of  cream-cheese 
and  an  egg,  together  with  a  due  proportion  of  salad, 
should  be  given  to  each  person,  leaving  everyone  to 
cut  up,  dress,  and  season  with  oil,  vinegar,  pepper, 
and  salt,  etc.,  according  to  taste."  BETTER  MATE- 
RIAL— "I  am  not  sorry  to  find  that  the  finely-shred 
salad-mixture,  in  vogue  when  Louis  Napoleon  III 
first  gave  his  feasts  at  the  Louvre,  are  once  more  the 
rage;  fine  thread-like  shaves  of  lettuce,  cucumber, 
and  other  salad  condiments,  whilst  tender  grape - 
leaves  and  tendrils  from  the  winter  hot-house  forc- 
ing for  spring-fruits,  give  a  piquancy  to  the  dish." 
MIXING  SALADS — There  is  an  Italian  proverb  on 
salad-making  which  tells  us  there  must  be  plenty  of 
oil  and  salt,  but  very  little  vinegar.  The  same  rule 
is  strictly  followed  in  France,  and  it  is  a  part  of 
every  Frenchwoman's  education  to  know  how  to 
add  these  ingredients  in  their  exact  proportions. 
This  is  so  delicate  a  matter,  that  it  is  not  usually  en- 
trusted to  servants  in  middle-class  families.  The 
undressed  salad  is  brought  upon  the  table,  and  the 
mistress  of  the  house  adds  what  she  thinks  is 
necessary  and  mixes  the  whole.  True  connois- 
seurs of  the  vegetable  luxury  wipe  the  separated 
leaves  of  the  lettuce  one  by  one  with  religious 
care.  They  break  the  foliage  for  the  salad-bowl, 
never  cutting  it,  and  they  debate  and  commingle 
the  component  parts  of  the  dressing  with  anx- 
ietv  and  scrupulous  care.  A  good  salad  can  be 
concocted,  of  course,  out  of  fifty  ingredients, 
from  nettle-tops  and  dandelion  leaves  through  cold 
potato  and  beetroot  to  the  lettuce  and  the  endive, 
which  are  salad  plants  par  excellence.  It  is  in  dress- 
ing, however,  that  genius  is  most  exhibited.  THE 
SALAD  OF  THE  ANCIENTS  —  Our  ancestors  served 
salads  with  roasted  meat,  roasted  poultry,  etc.  They 
had  a  great  many  which  are  now  no  longer  in 
vogue.  They  ate  leeks,  cooked  in  wood-ashes,  and 
seasoned  with  salt  and  honey;  borage,  mint  and 
parsley,  with  salt  and  oil;  lettuce,  fennel,  mint, 
chervil,  parsley  and  elder-flowers  mixed  together. 
They  also  classed  among  their  salads  an  agglomera- 
tion of  feet,  heads,  cocks'  combs,  and  fowls'  livers, 
cooked  and  seasoned  with  parsley,  mint,  vinegar, 
pepper  and  cinnamon.  Nettles  and  the  twigs  of 
rosemary  formed  delicious  salads  for  our  forefathers ; 
and  to  these  they  sometimes  added  pickled  gherkins. 
THE  SALADEJAPOXAISE — The  following  is  the  re- 
cipe ror  the  famous  Japanese  Salad,  from  Alexander 
Dumas,  "  Francillon."  Annette:  You  must  boil 
potatoes  in  a  little  stock,  cut  them  in  slices  as  if  for 
an  ordinary  salad,  and  while  they  are  still  warm, 
season  with  salt,  pepper,  very  good  olive  oil,  with 
the  flavor  of  the  fruit  in  it,  and  vinegar.  Henri: 
Tarragon?  Annette:  Orleans  is  better,  but  this  is 
of  no  great  importance;  the  principal  thing  is  half 
a  glass  of  white  wine,  Chateau  Yquem  if  possible. 
Plenty  of  small  herbs  cut  very  finely.  Boil  at  the 
same  time  some  very  large  mussels  with  a  stick  of 


SAL 

celery,  drain  them  well,  and  add  to  the  potatoes  you 
have  already  seasoned.  Turn  all  over  very  lightly 
Tlierese:  Fewer  mussels  than  potatoes ?  Annette: 
Yes,  a  third  less.  One  must  discover  the  mussels  by 
degrees;  they|  must  neither  be  foreseen,  nor  must 
they  assert  themselves.  When  the  salad  is  finished 
and  lightly  mixed,  cover  it  with  rounds  of  truffles 
which  have  been  cooked  in  champagne.  Do  all  this 
two  hours  before  dinner,  that  the  salad  may  be  quite 
cold  when  served.  Henri :  Can  one  keep  it  in  ice? 
A  nnette  :  Xo,  no,  no.  It  must  not  be  treated  with  any 
violence;  it  is  very  delicate,  and  all  the  aromas  must 
be  allowed  to  blend  by  slow  degrees.  "This  salad 
is  now  being  offered  at  most  Parisian  restaurants — 
to  such  an  extent,  indeed,  that  we  have  had  rather 
too  much  of  it.  Your  correspondent,  whose  di- 
gestion, like  that  of  the  tramp  who  requested  the 
farmer's  wife  not  to  fry  his  steak,  is  not  that  of  an 
ostrich,  has  had  "  Salade  Japonaise"  served  him 
since  last  writing,  no  less  than  fifteen  times,  and  is 
in  consequence  a  melancholy  man.  The  Grand 
Hotel  makes  of  this  salad  a  specialty  at  dejeuner, 
each  Thursday  morning — an  innovation  which  it 
describes  as  an  original  and  very  Parisian  idea." 
IMPROVED  JAPONAISE  —  Dumas's  recipe  for  the 
Japonaise  salad  has  been  experimented  with  by  the 
Parisian  cooks,  and  as  now  prepared  differs  vastly 
from  the  famous  exposition  in  Francillon.  Chef 
Gabriel  Berquier,  interviewed  the  other  day,  gives 
the  following  recipe  as  the  perfection  of  Salade 
jfafonaixe  and  the  recipe  is  well  worthy  of  preser- 
vation: Boil  potatoes  in  bouillon,  mince  them  up 
when  cold,  add  shelled  shrimps,  truffles  and  tongue 
cut  into  the  size  of  halfpence;  mix  the  whole  with 
superior  white  wine,  allow  it  to  macerate  for  an 
hour;  add  to  this  mixture  green  sauce  as  for  salad. 
On  the  other  hand  sprinkle  minced  truffles  over 
slices  of  fresh  or  preserved  foie  gras.  Prepare  a 
jelly  of  meat- juice,  white  wine,  oyster-stock,  and 
gelatine,  and  spread  some  of  this  jelly  over  each 
slice  of  foie  gras.  Mask  some  mussels  and  some 
oysters  in  well-set  green  sauce.  To  serve,  take  .1 
long  dish,  hollow  in  center.  Salad  in  center;  on 
salad  slices  of  foie  gras  prepared  as  above;  surround 
with  mussels  and  oysters.  Sprinkle  dish  over  with 
slices  of  truffles  and  of  tongue,  and  make  little  de- 
corations with  the  rest  of  the  meat  jelly.  Send  up 
to  table  with  some  green  sauce  in  the  sauce-boat." 
SALADE  DE  POMMES  DE  TERRE  AUX  TRUFFES— "A 
good  recipe  for  a  potato  salad,  which  is  in  many 
wavs  preferable  to  the  famous  Salade  Japonaise. 
Boil  and  slice  the  potatoes.  Slice  also  very  thin 
some  truffles  boiled  in  white  wine.  Fill  your  salad 
bowl  with  alternate  layers  of  potatoes  and  truffles, 
beginning  with  a  layer  of  potatoes  and  finishing 
with  truffles,  garnishing  this  last  layer  with  a  row 
of  small,  boiled  onions,  fillets  of  anchovy  and  stuffed 
or  plain  olives.  Season  with  salt  pepper,  oil,  and 
vinegar,  and,  after  allowing  the  salad  to  become 
impregnated  with  the  seasoning,  serve.  This  salad 
will  suit  those  who  cannot  stomach  the  mixture  of 


426 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


SAL 

mussels  and  truffles  prescribed  in  Dumas's  recipe. 
LA  SALADE  DU  PRINCE  DE  GALLES — To  which  the 
Heir  Apparent  is  said  to  be  extremely  partial — is 
stated  to  be  composed  of  sardines  boned  and  cut  in 
small  pieces,  lettuce,  watercress,  and  chervil  with 
minced  capers;  the  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs 
pounded  into  flour  are  added,  with  salt,  pepper, 
cayenne,  and  mustard,  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
lemon  juice.  The  salad  is  garnished  with  slices  of 
lemon  and  pickled  capsicums.  PLUM'S  PRIDE — Is 
a  capital  salad;  named  after  its  compounder,  a  re- 
tired butler.  Ingredients  for  six  people:  Three 
large  floury  potatoes,  three  tomatoes,  cooked,  a 
small  cupful  of  sliced  cold  vegetables  of  any  sort 
ready,  a  large  lettuce,  or  two  moderately -sized,  a 
few  sprigs  of  watercress,  some  slices  of  beetroot,  a 
very  little  onion  of  the  fine  shallot  kind,  tarragon 
vinegar  and  common  vinegar  to  taste,  mustard,  salt, 
and  sugar  to  taste,  and  a  teaspoonful  each  of  any 
sauces  you  may  have  in  use;  oil  or  cream.  The 
dressing  is  made  in  the  usual  way,  the  vinegar  being 
added  by  slow  degrees,  in  the  proportion  of  one 
tablespoonful  to  three  of  oil.  The  tarragon  is  used 
to  flavor.  Rub  the  potatoes,  while  hot,  through  a 
sieve,  the  tomatoes  also;  and  about  two  inches  of 
beetroot;  add  the  beat  yolk  of  a  raw  egg  with  the 
tarragon,  vinegar,  etc.,  and  mix  all  well.  As  tastes 
vary  respecting  the  quantities  of  oil  and  vinegar,  the 
mixer  must  use  his  own  discretion.  Mustard  can 
be  added  if  liked,  also  a  chopped  chili.  LOBSTER 
SALAD — This  is  the  salad  par  excellence  at  this  time 
of  year.  It  is  exceedingly  fashionable  and  may  be 
decorated  with  white  rings  of  hard-boiled  eggs  and 
the  coral  or  eggs  of  the  lobster,  whilst  the  fan  or 
tail  of  the  animal  and  its  various  long  antennae 
(feelers)  may  all  play  an  ornamental  part  in  the  get- 
ting up  of  the  dish.  The  lobster  must,  of  course,  be 
boiled,  and  the  meat  of  the  animal,  with  a  sufficiency 
of  green-stuff,  forms  the  basis  of  the  dish.  Very 
small  onions  and  egg  radishes  may  be  used  when  in 
season,  as  also  chervil,  etc.  A  sauce  of  oil,  mustard, 
cream,  and  a  little  cayenne  may  be  served,  either  in 
the  dish  or  separately.  The  decoration  of  a  salad  of 
this  kind  may  be  carried  to  any  length  which  the 
fancy  dictates.  An  outer  border  may  be  made  of 
alternate  slices  of  boiled  potatoes  and  beet-rooi_ 
which  will  look  charming.  To  keep  this  border  in 
its  position,  fill  the  bottom  of  the  dish  with  aspic 
jelly,  and  allow  it  to  set;  throw  in  the  "greenerie" 
in  bulk,  and  cover  all  with  a  very  thick  sauce  of 
cream,  oil,  and  mustard,  seasoned  to  taste;  then  plant 
on  the  ceijter,  so  as  to  stand  erect,  a  few  of  the  hearts 
of  the  lettuces  which  have  been  used,  after  which 
build  around  a  border  of  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  into 
fantastic  forms.  AN'CHOVY  SALAD — "At  Kettner's 
famous  restaurant  in  Soho  they  sometimes  serve 
among  the  hors  d'&ifvres  anchovy-salad  garnished 
with  diminutive  pickled  onions."  SALADE  D'Ax- 
CHOIS — "Kettner,  or  rather  his  successor,  Sangiorgi, 
gives  the  following  recipe:  Wash  in  cold  water 
some  salted  anchovies,  steen  them  in  vinegar,  drain 


SAL 

them  on  a  cloth,  and  take  out  their  fillets,  which 
shred  likewise;  place  them  symmetrically  on  a 
small  plate  or  a  hors  d'ofUTre  dish,  garnished  with 
groups  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  chopped  parsley  and 
onion  separately  also,  with  whole  small  capers. 
Pour  a  little  oil  over  the  whole,  and  serve." 
THE  GARLIC  FLAVOR  —  A  slight  rubbing  of  the 
salad  bowl  with  a  clove  of  garlic  will  impart  suf- 
ficient flavor  for  a  moderately  sized  salad,  or  a  piece 
of  bread  crust  may  be  slightly  rubbed  with  garlic 
and  put  into  the  salad  bowl  while  the  salad  is  being 
mixed,  and  then  removed.  A  SALAD  OF  BOILED 
ONIONS — Is  quite  a  delicacy.  The  unpleasant  es- 
sence of  the  onion  disappears  in  boiling,  and  only 
its  sugar  and  other  innocent  and  savory  qualities 
remain.  This  may  be  recommended  for  a  change. 
The  onions  are  not  to  be  cooked  soft,  but  sliced  and 
parboiled.  THE  O.NIOX  FLAVOR— A  new  idea  for 
salads  is  to  add  the  expressed  juice  of  an  onion. 
The  effect  is  said  to  be  excellent  and  something 
analogous  to  the  practice  of  the  French  cooks,  who 
wipe  a  frying-pan  with  a  piece  of  garlic  before  they 
make  a  savory  omelette.  SALADE  A  LA  ML'LGRAVE 
— Although  very  simple  in  composition  this  is  a 
recherche  salad.  For  20  persons,  say,  take  6  cab- 
bage lettuces,  clean  and  mix  them  with  a  kind  of 
remoulade  containing  capers.  Put  this  mixture  in 
the  salad  bowl;  then  get  ready  some  sliced  tomatoes 
seasoned  with  oil.  vinegar,  pepper  and  salt,  and  put 
them  round  the  bowl.  Well  dished  up,  this  salad 
is  very  pleasing  to  the  eye  as  well  as  to  the  palate. 
BEET  AMD  POTATO  SALAD — Cooked  beets  cut  in 
lozenge  shapes,  and  potatoes  likewise;  kept  separ- 
ate, but  seasoned  alike  with  oil,  vinegar,  pepper, 
salt  and  minced  onion;  mixed  together  and  gar- 
nished with  parsley  or  celery  at  time  of  serving. 

I  One  of  the  prettiest  ways  in  which  to  garnish  win- 
ter salads  is  to  fringe  short  stalks  of  celery  and  put 
around  the  edge  of  the  salad  bowl.  Fringe  by 
means  of  coarse  needles.  BLOATER  SALAD — Broil 
2  herrings,  remove  skin  and  bone  and  cut  the  fish 
into  shreds;  put  into  a  salad  bowl  a  head  of  bleached 
endive;  add  the  fish  and  z  anchovies  cut  up,  i  dozen 
minced  capers  and  2  boiled  and  sliced  potatoes;  over 
all  strew  a  few  minced  herbs,  add  a  plain  salad 
dressing,  toss  lightly  and  serve.  CAZAXOVA  SALAD 
— Shred  the  white  stalks  of  2  heads  of  celery  in  inch 
lengths  and  put  them  in  a  salad  bowl  with  the 
whites  of  3  hard-boiled  eggs  also  shredded,  season 
with  mayonnaise  sauce  and  chopped  eschalots,  and 
strew  over  the  surface  the  yolks  of  the  3  eggs  finely 
chopped. 

SALAD  DRESSINGS— Home-made  salad  dress- 
ing, it  goes  without  saying,  is  infinitely  better  than 
that  bought  ready  made.  A  few  not  generally 
known  items  on  the  subject  may  be  acceptable. 
First  you  can  boil  your  dressing  and  so  keep  it, 
tightly  bottled  for  14  days;  take  3  eggs,  i  table- 
spoonful  each  of  sugar,  oil  and  salt,  i  small  table- 
spoonful  of  mustard,  i  cupful  of  milk  and  i,  or  less, 

.  of  vinegar;  stir  the  oil,  salt,  mustard  and  sugar  in  a 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


427 


SAI. 

bowl  until  perfectly  smooth,  add  the  eggs  well 
beaten,  then  the  vinegar,  and  lastly  the  milk;  place 
the  bowl  in  a  basin  of  boiling  water  and  stir  the 
contents  till  the  consistency  of  custard.  TOMATO 
DRESSING  — The  following  recipe  for  preparing  a 
delightful  dressing  for  the  tomato,  when  used  for 
salad,  will  be  found  useful:  Beat  2  eggs  well  to- 
gether, add  i  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  J£  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  the  same  of  prepared  mustard,  i  tablespoon  - 
ful  of  sweet  cream  and  3  tables poonfuls  of  vinegar; 
place  the  bowl  containing  it  in  a  basin  of  boiling 
water  and  stir  till  it  attains  the  thickness  of  cream. 
PAKMKNTIER'S  SALAD  VINEGAR-  Is  made  as  follows : 
Shallots,  sweet  savory,  chives  and  tarragon,  of  each 
3  ounces,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  dried  mint-leaves,  and 
the  same  of  ualm;  beat  these  together  in  a  mortar 
and  put  them  into  a  stone  gallon  bottle,  fill  up  with 
strong  white-wine  vinegar,  cork  it  securely  and  let 
it  stand  a  fortnight  exposed  to  the  sun,  then  filter  it 
through  a  flannel  bag.  MAYONNAISE — See  Mayon - 
twixe.  Mayonnaise  dressing  can  be  colored  green 
with  spinach  green,  red  with  pounded  coral  rubbed 
through  a  seive,  and  crushed  strawberry  with  a  few 
drops  of  cochineal.  ASPIC  MAYONNAISE  DRESS- 
ING— Melt  a  cupful  of  jelly,  then  put  it  in  a  bowl, 
place  in  a  basin  of  ice  water,  mix  with  J^  cup  of 
vinegar,  i  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  i  scant  of  mus- 
tard, i  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne; 
beat  the  jelly  with  a  whisk,  and  when  it  thickens 
•  add  the  oil  and  vinegar  little  by  little,  lastly  a  little 
lemon  juice,  beating  all  the  time.  This  dressing 
ought  to  be  very  white.  A  RAVIGOTE — "We  can 
recommend  the  following  recipe  for  French  salad 
dressing.  To  3  tablespoonfuls  of  best  salad-oil 
add  a  dessert-spoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar,  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  half  a  saltspoonf  til  of  pepper;  chop 
finely  some  tarragon,  parsley,  chives  (or  a  taste  of 
onions),  and  mix  well;  it  should  be  made  half  an 
hour  before  the  lettuce  is  added."  SALAD  A  LA 
JARDINIERE — Fine  strips  of  vegetables  of  various 
colors  all  cooked  and  cold,  with  green  peas  and 
string  beans,  dressed  with  oil  and  vinegar.  SALADE 
AUX  CONCOMBRES — Sliced  cucumbers  with  oil  and 
vinegar.  SALADE  DE  CHOUX  ROUGES  A  LA  RUSSE 
— Russian  red  cabbage  salad  with,  sauce  of  sour 
cream,  hard-boiled  yolks  and  seasonings.  SALADE 
A  LA  RUSSE — Cooked  salad  of  carrots,  parsnips  and 
beets  in  shapes,  pieces  of  fowl,  anchovies,  olives, 
caviare,  oil,  vinegar  and  mustard.  SALADE  A  L'Es- 
PAGNOLE — Spanish  salad  of  slices  of  tomatoes  and 
pickled  onions,  with  mayonnaise  in  the  center. 
SALADE  A  LA  TARTARE— Lettuce,  pickled  cucum- 
bers, onions,  herrings  cut  in  dice,  oil  and  vinegar. 
SALADE  A  LA  DEMIDOFF  —  Slices  of  potatoes  and 
truffles,  shallots,  oil,  vinegar.  SALADE  A  LA  FRAN- 
CAISE — Lettuce  or  any  one  kind  of  salad  only,  with 
oil,  vinegar,  etc.  SALADE  A  L'ANGLAISE— Lettuce, 
celery,  beets,  endive  and  cress,  with  oil  and  vine- 
gar. SALADE  A  L'ALLEMANDE — Slices  of  potatoes, 
Brussels  sprouts,  cauliflower  and  celery,  with  oil 
and  vinegar.  SALADE  A  L'ITALIENNE  —  Several 


SAL 

kinds  of  green  salad  and  cooked  vegetables,  with 
meat  or  fish,  anchovies,  olives  and  tartar  sauce. 
SALADE  A  LA  FLAMANDE— Smoked  herrings  or  any 
dried  fish,  pickled  shrimps,  apples,  beets,  and  pota- 
toes with  oil  and  vinegar.  SALADE  DE  CRE  SON 
AUX  POMMES  DE  TERRE  —  Water-cress  and  slices 
of  potatoes,  with  oil  and  vinegar.  SALADE  DE  To- 
MATES— Slices  of  raw  tomatoes  with  chopped  shal- 
lots, oil  and  vinegar.  SALADE  DE  CHICOREE  A  LA 
FRANCAISE — Endive  with  oil,  vinegar  and  garlic. 
SALADE  A  LA  MADAME — Lettuce  with  sauce  of  oil, 
vinegar,  yolk  of  egg  and  seasonings. 

SALAMANDER— An  iron  with  a  handle,  like  a 
shovel  of  extra  weight,  to  be  made  red-hot  for  the 
purpose  of  browning  the  tops  of  dishes  which  can- 
not be  set  in  the  oven;  it  is  held  over  near  enough 
to  toast  them. 

SALEP — A  root  known  by  this  name  grows  in 
England  and  is  used  by  the  country  people  as  an 
ingredient  in  puddings.  Also:  A  traveler  in 
Greece  tells  about  a  delightful  beverage  called  salep, 
a  decoction  from  roots,  sold  in  Greek  towns  only 
early  in  the  morning.  The  venders  carry  about 
their  can  of  salep  with  a  charcoal  fire  under  it,  some 
glasses  and  a  can  of  water  for  rinsing  them ;  and 
the  cost,  a  cent  a  glass.  (Probably  a  kind  of  sassa- 
fras tea.) 

SALMIS— A  way  of  dressing  game.  A  roasted 
game  bird  or  animal  cut  up  and  best  pieces  reserved 
while  a  gravy  is  made  by  stewing  down  the  bones 
with  wine  and  seasonings,  the  gravy  then  poured 
over  the  pieces  to  be  served.  {See  Game,  Partridge, 
Grouse.) 

SALMON — HINTS  ON  SALMON  COOKING— "Sal- 
mon ought  to  be  eaten  as  soon  as  possible  after  it  is 
caught.  Nothing  can  then  exceed  the  beautiful 
curdiness  of  its  texture,  whereas  your  kept  fish  gets 
a  flaccidity  that  I  cannot  away  with.  N.  B. — Simple 
boiling  is  the  only  way  with  a  salmon  just  caught; 
but  a  gentleman  of  standing  is  much  t:ie  better  for 
being  cut  into  thickish  slices  (cut  across,  I  mean) 
and  grilled  with  cayenne."  "  Salmon  also,  if  it  be 
a  large  fish,  is  best  boiled  in  portions.  After  it  has 
been  a  minute  in  the  boiling  water,  lift  the  drain, 
and  let  the  water  flow  off;  repeat  this  several  times, 
and  it  will  cause  the  curd  to  set  and  make  the  fish 
eat  more  crisply.  Henry  \Villiam  Herbert  recom- 
mends a  kettle  'screeching  with  intense  heat,  and 
filled  with  brine  strong  enough  to  bear  an  egg.' 
He  deprecates  any  sauce,  as  likely  to  injure  its  own 
delicious  flavor,  and  speaks  with  the  utmost  con- 
tempt of  the  barbarism  of  eating  green  peas  or  any 
other  vegetable  with  salmon.  The  thinnest  part  of 
salmon  is  the  fattest  part;  and  if  you  have  an  epi- 
cure at  table,  he  will  certainly  feel  slighted  if  not 
helped  to  some  of  it."  (St-e  Scottish,  Kettle  of  Fish.) 
SALMON  CL-TLETS  FRIED— Dip  slices  of  salmon  into 
Florence  oil,  strew  over  them  cayenne  pepper  and 
salt,  and  wrap  them  in  oiled  paper;  fry  them  10  min- 
utes in  boiling  lard,  and  then  lay  the  papered  cutlets 


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SAL 

on  a  gridiron,  over  a  clear  fire,  for  3  minutes  longer. 
SAUMON  A  LA  REGENCE — A  whole  small  salmon 
covered  with  fish  forcemeat,  to  which  chopped 
truffles  are  added;  served  with  Perigeux  sauce. 
S \UMON  A  L'ECOSSAISE  —  Salmon  crimped  and 
boiled  in  salt  water,  served  with  butter  and  parsley. 
SAUMON  A  LA  TARTARE  —  Broiled  salmon  steaks 
with  tartar  sauce.  SAUMON  A  LA  HOLLANDAISE — 
Boiled  in  seasoned  stock,  served  with  Hollandaise 
sauce.  SAUMON  A  L'INDIENNE —  Salmon  cut  in 
pieces  stewed  in  curry  sauce.  SAUMON  A  LA  BEY- 
ROUT — Salmon  steaks  broiled  in  papers,  served  with 
a  sauce  of  mushrooms,  shallots,  parsley,  and  wine 
in  brown  gravy.  SAUMON  A  LA  CREME  D'ANCHOIS 
— Salmon  steaks  stewed,  and  anchovy  sauce  made  of 
the  liquor  with  butter,  etc.  DARNE  OR  TRANCHE 
DE  SAUMON— A  thick  cut  from  the  middle  of  the 
fish.  FILETS  DE  SAUMON  A  LA  MARECHALE  — 
Fillets  saute  and  served  with  white  ravigote  or 
aurora  sauce,  garnished  with  shrimps  or  oysters. 
MAZARINE  DE  SAUMON — A  steamed  mould  of  sal- 
mon forcemeat,  decorated  with  shrimps,  served 
with  cardinal  sauce.  MAYONNAISE  DE  SAUMON — 
Pieces  of  cold  salmon  with  lettuce  or  celery  and 
mayonnaise  sauce.  CANNED  SALMON— The  Colum- 
bia river  canned  salmon  is  a  remarkably  good  sub- 
stitute for  fresh  fish,  when,  as  often  happens,  the 
tish  does  not  arrive  in  time  for  the  hotel  dinner,  and 
still  the  fish  course  cannot  well  be  left  out.  It  is 
made  hot  by  setting  the  cans  in  boiling-  water,  and 
the  fish  should  be  served  without  breaking  or  mov- 
ing it  more  than  once,  and  with  any  of  the  usual 
boiled  fish  sauces.  Canned  salmon  may  be  scalloped, 
baked  in  a  dish  of  cream  sauce,  ot  au  gratin  with 
bread-crumbs  and  butter  on  top,  in  shells,  in  patties, 
in  cassolettes,  croquettes,  rissoles,  and  in  various 
other  ways  in  combination  with  other  fish  and  shell- 
fish, as  in  a  matelote.  SMOKED  SALMON  OR  KIP- 
PERED SALMON — Has  always  been  held  a  prime 
delicacy;  it  is  picked  apart  without  cooking,  deco- 
rated with  green  and  served  that  way  for  breakfiist 
or  supper,  or  else  thinly  sliced  and  served  the  same 
•way.  Also,  steeped  in  warm  water,  sliced  and 
made  hot  in  buttter  and  pepper  with  a  little  water, 
or,  after  soaking,  broiled  and  buttered.  FOR  PA- 
CIFIC COAST  SALMON  FISHERS — The  following  is 
copied  from  an  old  cookery  book,  dated  1753:  "To 
-oickle  salmon  as  at  Newcastle:  Cut  pieces  accord- 
ing to  the  size  of  the  fish;  then  take  2  qts.  of  good 
vinegar,  black  pepper  and  Jamaica  pepper  (J£  oz. 
each),  cloves  and  mace  (}^  oz.  each),  and  I  Ib.  salt. 
Bruise  the  spice  pretty  large,  and  put  all  these  to  a 
small  quantity  of  water;  as  soon  as  it  boils  put  in 
the  fish  and  boil  it  well;  take  the  fish  from  the  pickle 
and  let  it  stand  to  cool,  and  then  put  it  into  the  bar- 
rel it  is  to  be  kept  in,  strewing  some  of  the  spice 
between  the  pieces.  When  the  pickle  is  cold,  skim 
off  the  fat,  and  pour  the  liquor  on  the  fish  and  cover 
it  very  close. 

SALMON   PERCH— "A   Swedish    fish,   called 
'salmon  perch,'   has  been  brought  to  the  London 


SAN 

markets  this  year.     It  is  beautifully  white  in  color, 
and  particularly  delicate  in  flavor." 

SALMON  TROUT— A  lake-fish  resembling  both 
the  salmon  and  the  Mackinaw  trout,  having  salmon- 
colored  flesh;  but  of  comparatively  small  size.  It  is 
a  fish  of  the  first  quality  for  the  table. 

SALISBURY  STEAK— For  people  with  weak 
or  impaired  digestion.  It  is  the  notion  of  an  Amer- 
ican physician.  The  surface  of  a  round  steak  is 
chopped  with  a  dull  knife,  the  object  being  not  to 
cut,  but  to  pound  the  meat.  As  the  meat- pulp  comes 
to  the  top  it  is  scraped  off,  until  at  last  nothing  is 
left  but  the  tough  and  fibrous  residue.  The  pulp  is 
then  made  into  cakes  and  lightly  and  quickly  broiled, 
so  as  to  leave  it  almost  rasv  inside. 

SALPICON  — Minced  meat  of  any  sort  highly 
seasoned  with  spiced  salt,  lemon-peel,  savory  herbs, 
truffles,  etc. ;  a  mince  of  which  a  little  is  sufficient  r.s 
it  is  used  to  inclose  in  quenelles,  or  in  fellies  bou- 
chees,  or  small  patties,  in  rissolettes,  and  to  impart 
savory  flavors  to  meat  and  game  when  placed  in  in- 
cisions made  for  the  purpose.  Chopped  chicken  or 
game  with  grated  ham  and  spiced  salt,  moistened 
with  sauce,  is  an  example. 

SALSIFY- The  oyster-plant  (See  Oyster- Plant.) 

SALT  STICKS-  Finger-like  small  loaves  of  bread 
salted  on  top  before  baking,  eaten  with  soup  and 
with  beer.  Made  in  some  hotels  specially  for  a  din- 
ner roll. 

SAMPHIRE— "A  specialty  of  Pegwell  Bay  is 
pickled  samphire,  the  curious  seaweed  so  finely  de- 
scribed by  Swinburne  in  'Atalanta  in  Calydon,' 
'  Green  girdles  and  crowns  of  the  sea  gods, 
Cool  blossoms  of  water  and  foam." 
The  samphire  is  collected  on  a  small  submerged  isl- 
and in  the  Bay,  and  is  bottled  for  sale.  It  gives  a 
pleasant  zest  to  cold  meat,  and  is  said  to  go  down 
particularly  well  with  hot  roast  mutton."  There  is  a 
true  and  a  false  samphire;  the  latter  is  a  salt-flat  weed 
somewhat  resembling  purslane  in  its  fleshybranches, 
but  growing  upright;  it  is  also  called  glasswort 
from  the  large  amount  of  soda  which  it  yields  to  the 
glass  makers;  it  makes  an  agreeable  pickle.  The 
true  samphire,  also  eatable  and  sought  after,  grows 
on  rocky  cliffs,  and  is  the  samphire  mentioned  by 
Shakspeare  —  "the  samphire-gatherer's  dangerous 
trade" — and  in  the  couplet  above. 

SANDWICH— Two  thin  slices  of  bread  with  a 
thinner  slice  of  meat  or  something  equivalent  be- 
tween. "Meat,  or  potted  meat,  fish,  hard-boiled 
eggs,  or  grated  cheese  may  be  used  as  the  lining  to 
the  two  surfaces  of  bread,  etc.  Be  careful  that  the 
slices  of  bread  are  of  the  same  size  and  thickness; 
choose  bread  of  a  close,  uniform  texture.  Spread 
the  inner  surface  of  each  slice  with  butter,  and,  if 
suitable,  add  a  little  mustard  and  salt.  Chop  the 
meat,  ham  and  chicken,  or  tongue  and  veal,  together; 
or,  if  only  one  kind  of  meat  is  used,  cut  thin  slices, 
and  cover  the  buttered  surface  with  them.  Lay  the 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


429 


SAX 

other  piece  of  bread  or  biscuit  on  the  meat  and  press 
the  whole  tightly  tog-ether.  If  fish  is  used,  it  must 
be  chopped  up  small,  and  a  little  cream  and  pepper 
and  salt  mixed  in  before  spreading.  Cheese  is  to  be 
grated,  and  for  cheese  sandwiches  plain  thin  biscuits 
are  always  used.  For  sweet  sandwiches  use  marma- 
lade." When  sandwiches  are  made  for  a  party  at 
ball  or  pic-nic,  the  bread  should  be  cut  as  thin  as  it 
can  be  in  square  slices;  when  the  filling  is  in,  these 
are  to  be  cut  across,  making  triangular  shapes;  then 
the  sides  trimmed  off,  making  them  all  of  one  size 
and  perfectly  even.  Pile  them  up  and  cover  with  a 
dampened  napkin  till  wanted.  THK  CHESTERFIELD 
SANDWICHES — Are  deservedly  popular,  containing 
as  they  do  all  the  elements  of  a  comfortable  meal. 
The  interior  consists  of  chicken  and  ham,  accompa- 
nied with  salad.  SANDWICHES  A  LA  REGENCE — 
Are  also  very  appetizing,  being  made  of  lobster  and 
small  salad.  Other  excellent  mixtures  are  anchovy 
and  egg,  or  anchovy  and  water-cress,  the  combina- 
tion of  saltness  and  freshness  being  much  approved 
of  by  the  epicure.  Another  odd  mixture  consists  of 
.sardine  and  cucumber,  two  edibles  which  "nick"  ex- 
ceedingly well,  probably  on  the  principle  of  the  at- 
traction between  contrasts.  These  sandwiches  are 
never  larger  than  two  inches  square,  and  are  served 
in  a  pile  in  a  dainty  china  dish.  BODEGA  SAND- 
WICH— A  tempting  sandwich  which  is  served  in  the 
Bodega  wine-stores  of  London  consists  of  an  an- 
chovy rolled  round  the  outside  edge  of  a  slice  of 
hard-boiled  egg  neatly  placed  upon  a  thin  slice  of 
brown  bread  and  butter.  WOMAN'S  FAVORITE 
SANDWICH — Restaurant-keepers  unanimously  agree 
that  the  favorite  woman's  lunch  is  a  cup  of  bouillon, 
with  a  sandwich  so  thin  that  it  can  be  i oiled  up  and 
tied  with  ribbon.  A  recent  innovation  in  sand- 
wiches, the  idea  of  which  is  stolen  by  report  from 
one  of  these  lunching  places  for  men,  where  women 
are  not  admitted,  is  to  spread  one  wafer-cracker  with 
jelly,  another  with  pate  de  foie  gras,  and  lay  them 
together,  all  of  which  may  be  very  delicious;  but  a 
woman's  favorite  sandwich  is  an  ethereal  vision  of 
bread  and  meat  -like  two  thin  pieces  of  muslin  slight- 
ly discolored  on  one  side  and  laid  together — a  three- 
cornered  combination  of  frailty.  TONGUE  SANDWICH 
-Cut  up  half  a  pound  of  cold  boiled  beef -tongue;  put 
it  in  a  mortar  with  the  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled 
eggs,  a  tablespoonful  of  made  mustard,  salt,  and  a 
little  cayenne;  pound  to  a  paste;  moisten  with  very 
little  cream;  spread  the  paste  on  slices  of  bread, 
press  them  together,  cut  them  in  tv  o,  and  serve. 
Th«  seasoning  may  be  changed  as  fancy  dictates. 
SIIKIMP  SANDWICHES — Made  as  follows  they  will 
be  found  decidedly  appetizing:  Pound  i  pt.  shelled 
shrimps  with  ><  small  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  anchovy  sauce,  J^  teaspoonful  of  lemon- 
juice,  and  salt  to  taste.  Cut  some  thin  white  or 
brown  bread  and  butter,  spread  the  mixture  on  it, 
cover  it  with  a  second  slice,  press  them  together, 
and  cut  into  delicate  sandwiches,  which  serve  nicely 
garnished  on  a  white  damask  napkin.  Fowl.  SAND- 


SAR 

WICH — Cut  the  meat  from  the  breast  of  a  cold  boiled 
fowl  into  small,  thin  slices;  mince  a  few  stalks  of 
celery;  place  one  or  two  slices  of  the  fowl  on  a  slice 
of  plain  bread,  strew  over  it  a  quantity  of  the  celery, 
and  pour  over  the  celery  a  little  mayonnaise.  LIE- 
BIG  SANDWICH  —Toast  two  slices  of  bread,  and  while 
hot  spread  over  them  a  thin  layer  of  extract  of  beef; 
add  a  very  little  celery-salt;  press  them  together,  cut 
them  in  two,  and  serve.  BRIE  SANDWICH — The 
cheese  known  as  fromage  de  brie  is  excellent  as  a 
sandwich.  Take  the  necessary  amount  of  butter  re- 
quired to  butter  the  slices  of  bread ;  chop  up  a  few 
sprigs  of  parsley  and  chives  together,  work  them 
into  the  butter  and  spread  over  the  bread;  cut  the 
cheese  into  thin  strips,  put  it  between  the  slices  of 
bread,  and  serve.  CAVIARE  SANDWICH — Take  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  caviare,  put  it  in  a  soup-plate,  add  to  it 
a  saltspoonful  of  chopped  onion,  a  walnut  of  butter, 
and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon;  work  well  together, 
spread  on  thin  slices  of  bread,  press  them  together, 
cut  the  sandwich  in  two,  and  serve.  For  another 
caviare  -  sandwich  combination  see  Caviare.  A. 
SQUARE  YARD  OF  SANDWICHES — "At  a  restaurant 
in  Gladbach  a  visitor  ordered  a  roll  sandwich.  When 
it  came,  he  thought  it  looked  rather  small  for  the 
price — 20  pfennigs — and  sarcastically  inquired  of  the 
landlord  how  much  he  charged  for  a  square  yard. 
'  Five  marks,'  was  the  prompt  reply.  '  Very  good, 
then  bring  me  a  square  yard  of  sandwiches.'  He 
insisted  on  his  demand,  and  mine  host  had  to  com- 
ply whether  he  liked  it  or  not.  But  on  reckoning  up 
the  damage  he  found  that  it  took  120  rolls  to  com- 
plete the  square  yard,  which,  at  20  pfennigs  each, 
would  come  to  24  marks  instead  of  5.  Our  traveler 
had  a  '  square  meal '  for  once,  and  distributed  the 
overplus  among  the  other  guests,  who  were  greatly 
amused  at  the  joke." 

SANDWICH  ISLAND  DAINTIES— "The  fol- 
lowing was  the  bill  of  fare  at  a  dinner  which  was 
given  recently  by  King  Kalakaua  to  a  party  of  Amer- 
ican visitors:  'Raw  shrimps,  kukui  nuts,  taro,  pci, 
cold  chicken,  crackers,  raw  fish,  seaweed,  raw  crabs, 
raw  pig's  liver,  fruits,  coffee,  roast  dog,  ice  cream, 
champagne,  lager  beer,  ginger  ale.'  The  roast  dog, 
we  are  told,  tasted  like  duck.  In  Hawaii  dogs  are 
kept  in  pens  and  fed  like  pigs." 

SANGAREE— A  drink  composed  of  wine  and 
water  with  sugar,  lemon,  lime  juice,  or  other  flavors 
optional.  It  is  named  according  to  the  kind  of  wine 
used. 

SARCELLE  (Fr.)— Teal  duck. 

SARDIXE— "When  it  reaches  its  full  growth, 
the  true  sardine  is  a  little  smaller  than  the  herring; 
at  this  stage  it  is  fat,  oily,  and  of  a  mediocre  taste. 
It  weighs  between  a  quarter  and  a  third  of  a  pound. 
This  fish,  which  on  the  coast  of  Cornwall  is  known 
as  the  'pilchard,'  and  in  Brittany  as  the  'winter  sar- 
dine,' appears  toward  the  close  of  the  cold  season, 
and  vanishes  by  June.  It  is  then  more  than  two  years 
old.  This  sardine  is  salted,  but  never  preserved  in 


430 


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SAR 

oil.  It  is  the  so-called  summer  sardine  which  is  fried 
in  boiling  oil,  packed  in  tin -boxes,  and  shipped  all 
over  the  world.  This  is  the  same  fish  as  the  pilchard 
or  winter  sardine,  only  it  is  a  year  younger.  It  ar- 
rives off  the  Breton  coast  in  vast  shoals  during  June, 
and  thenceforward  until  November  it  is  taken  in 
nets,  the  bait  used  being  the  salted  roe  of  the  codfish 
or  a  minute  species  of  shrimp  procured  in  the  neigh- 
borhood. Whither  it  goes  and  where  it  passes  the 
cold  season  is  unknown,  but  it  is  believed  to  be  a 
deep-water  fish,  which  only  in  the  months  mentioned 
comes  to  the  surface.  This  is  certain,  however,  that 
it  is  met  with  only  near  that  section  of  the  Atlantic 
/coast  of  Europe  which  extends  from  Cornwall  to 
Portugal.'-'  HOME  PRODUCTS  SHOULD  BE  CHEAP — 
"Nearly  all  the  fish  eaten  in  America  as  sardines 
come  from  Maine.  They  are  small  herring.  Some- 
times only  a  bushel  or  two  are  taken  at  a  time,  and 
at  others  so  many  as  to  endanger  the  net.  The  de- 
gree of  dexterity  with  which  they  are  cleaned  is  as- 
tonishing, especially  as  it  is  done  by  veiy  young  chil- 
dren. After  this  they  are  placed  on  large  gridirons 
and  suspended  over  a  hot  fire  to  broil.  The  boxes 
are  prepared  with  attractive  French  labels  indicat- 
ing olive-oil,  but  this  is  false,  as  the  oil  is  cotton- 
seed. The  packing  is  another  operation  at  which 
little  people  are  expert.  A  fish  is  seized  in  each 
hand  and  laid  lengthwise  in  the  box,  first  a  head  at 
the  outer  end  and  then  a  tail.  After  the  boxes  are 
full,  a  small  quantity  of  oil  is  poured  in,  and  then 
they  are  passed  to  men  who  solder  them  tightly. 
They  are  next  thrown  into  an  immense  caldron, 
where  they  are  boiled  two  hours,  thus  completing 
the  cooking  process  and  dissolving  the  bones  of  the 
'fish.  The  actual  cost  per  box,  including  all  expenses, 
is  said  to  be  five  cents."  THE  SARDINE  AT  HOME — 
"It  is  safe  to  say  that  the  sardines  of  Messina  are 
not  to  be  surpassed,  though  they  may  possibly  be 
equalled.  Like  Greenwich  whitebait  they  are  rather 
a  specialty  of  the  place.  The  waiter  breathes  a  shrili 
xvhisper  through  the  speaking-tube  which  commu- 
nicates from  the  ground  floor  to  the  kitchen.  A  sat- 
isfactory  response  comes  very  promptly  in  the  shape 
of  a  faint  sound  of  frizzling.  As  the  whitebait  are 
merely  immersed  for  some  seconds  in  a  wirework 
cage  in  some  boiling  oil,  so  the  sardines  are  sent  up 
with  startling  celerity,  considering  the  Italian  habit 
of  procrastination.  The  tiny  fish,  delicately  browned, 
are  served  on  a  soft  bed  of  frizzled  parsley.  By 
way  of  condiment,  there  are  simply  a  couple  of 
sliced  lemons,  and  the  result  is  so  tempting,  so 
fragrantly  appetizing,  that  you  scarcely  take  time 
to  disengage  the  fish  from  the  bones."  SAR- 
DINES EN"  CAISSES — The  fishermen  all  along  the 
coast  from  Gaeta  to  Naples  have  various  \vays  of 
cooking  fish  which  are  unknown  in  the  great  hotels. 
Many  of  them  are  interesting,  and  might  be  attrac- 
tive but  for  the  predominating  flavor  of  garlic. 
Fresh  sardines,  crisply  fried  in  oil,  are  quite  admi- 
rable eating,  but  the  fishermen  have  discovered  a 
more  excellent  way  of  dealing  with  them.  They 


SAU 

place  them  in  a  shallow  tin,  imbed  mem  in  bread- 
crumbs, add  a  few  savory  herbs,  pour  :i  little  goo<} 
olive  oil,  squeeze  a  lemon  or  two  over  them,  and 
then  bake  them  over  a  sharp  fire.  The  result  is  un- 
expected, but  not  disagreeable.  DEVILLED  SAR- 
DINES —  (/)-Try  devilled  sardines  for  breakfasts, 
teas,  and  "snacks."  They  are  easilv  done.  Broiled 
lightly,  a  dash  of  lemon -juice,  a  pinch  of  cayenne, 
and  there  vou  are,  don't  you  know !  (2)-Take  8  or  10 
sardines,  drain  a  little  from  the  oil,  cover  with  mus- 
tard and  cayenne.  Broil  lightly,  or  fry  in  a  little 
butter  or  oil.  Serve  on  fingers  of  buttered  toast. 
SARDINES  A  LA  HORLY — Sardines  dipped  in  batter 
and  fried  are  nice,  though  not  very  substantial,  and 
some  persons  like  pilchards  cooked  in  the  same  way, 
though  they  are  too  strong  flavored  to  suit  all  pal- 
ates; a  plentiful  accompaniment  of  lemon  is  desira- 
ble. CANAPES  AUX  SARDINES—- A  favorite  Parisian 
dish  is  made  of  sardines  carefully  skinned  and 
boned,  laid  on  slices  of  buttered  toast,  and  then  put 
into  the  oven,  with  buttered  paper  over  them,  to  get 
hot.  Before  serving  lemon-juice  is  sprinkled  over. 
SARDINES  WITH  POTATOES— Slice  parboiled  pota- 
toes half  an  inch  thick.  Melt  a  piece  of  butter  in  a 
stewpan,  and  put  in  a  layer  of  half  the  potatoes. 
A  couple  of  chopped  onions  and  some  parsley  must 
i  be  stewed  with  a  piece  of  butter  in  a  small  stew- 
pan.  Chop  sardines  and  stir  them  into  the  latter. 
Stew  for  a  few  minutes,  then  spread  them  over  the 
potatoes  in  the  stewpan.  Cover  with  the  other  half 
of  the  potatoes,  and  stew  them  ten  minutes;  or  the 
whole  may  be  done  in  the  oven,with  the  dish  covered. 
SARDINES  AU  PARMESAN-Sardines  on  buttered  strips 
of  toast  spread  with  grated  cheese.  SARDINES  EN 
PAPILLOTES — Fresh  sardines  boned,  stuffed,  cooked 
and  served  in  papers.  (See  Appetizers,  Canapes, 
Anchovies.} 

SASSAFRAS  — A  small  tree  abundant  in  the 
United  States,  the  bark  of  the  roots  of  which  emits 
a  fragrant  odor  and  possesses  mild  medicinal  quali- 
ties; used  for  making  sassafras  tea,  a  blood  purifier 
and  in  sassafras  beer  and  combinations  of  roots  and 
herbs  in  beverages  and  medicines.  The  bark  can  be 
purchased  in  a  dried  state  at  drug  stores. 

SAUCES  —  Most  of  the  established  standard 
sauces  recognized  by  modern  cooks  will  be  found 
described  more  particularly  under  their  respective 
proper  letters.  SAID  ABOUT  SAUCES — "  For  grilled 
dishes  the  following  appetiser  may  be  recom- 
mended :  One  teasponf  ul  of  cream,  one  of  vinegar, 
one  of  ketchup,  a  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  one  of 
Harvey's  or  Reading  sauce,  a  little  cayenne  and  salt; 
warm  in  a  saucepan,  and  pour  over  the  grill."  THE 
PROPER  SAUCE  FOR  SALMON — "  Never  take  lobster- 
sauce  to  salmon;  it  is  mere  painting  of  the  lily,  or, 
I  should  rather  say,  of  the  rose.  The  only  true  sauce 
for  salmon  is  vinegar,  mustard,  cayenne  pepper  and 
parsley."  A  FISH  SAUCE — "  A  sauce  often  served 
in  France  with  many  kinds  of  white  fish  is  made  by 
putting  chopped  capers,  a  few  drops  of  anchovy 
essence  and  lemon-juice,  with  a  little  parsley  or  tar- 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


431 


SALT 

ragon,  into  ordinary  melted  butter;  the  combination 
of  flavors  is  acceptable  to  most  palates."  A  PARIS 
SPECIALTY — "Another  recipe  of  la  haute  cuisine 
Francaise,  which  is  certainly  worth  noting,  is  the 
one  for  grilled  bream  with  shallot  sauce  (Breme 
grillee,  sauce  etchalotte):  Clean  afresh  bream,  scale 
and  cut  off  dorsal  and  side  fins,  also  end  of  tail;  trim 
and  oil.  Grill  your  fish  over  a  moderate  fire,  pour- 
ing oil  over  it  from  time  to  time.  Serve  on  a  hot 
plate,  with  the  following  sauce  over  it:  Melt  three 
and  a  half  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  two 
spoonfuls  of  minced  shallot;  let  cook  for  three 
minutes;  add  the  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs, 
minced  fine,  two  spoonfuls  of  Harvey's'  sauce,  the 
juice  of  one  lemon,  and  some  minced  parsley." 
HARVEY'S  SAUCE— "A  fair  imitation  of  Harvey's 
ssuce  tmy  be  produced  by  working  the  following- 
recipe  Mince  a  clove  of  garlic  very  finely,  add  6 
chopped  anchovies,  %  oz.  cayenne,  3  tablespoonfuls 
of  Indian  soy,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  mushroom  or 
walnut  ketchup.  Put  these  ingredients  into  a  quart 
of  the  best  vinegar,  and  let  them  soak  for  about  a 
month,  shaking  frequently.  Strain  through  muslin, 
and  bottle  for  use."  STOCK  FOR  WHITE  SAUCE— 
"A  useful  stock  for  white  sance,  soups,  etc.,  can  be 
made  by  using  the  liquor  in  which  fowls  have  been 
boiled.  The  bones  of  the  fowls  themselves,  the 
necks,  feet,  etc.,  should  all  be  saved,  and  with  these 
and  a  slice  or  two  of  lean  ham,  vegetables,  herbs( 
etc.,  no  other  meat  will  be  required,  unless  the  stock 
is  wanted  very  strong.  In  this  latter  case,  knuckle 
of  veal  is  the  best  thing."  "A  pinch  of  sugar  is  an 
improvement  to  all  white  sauces."  ABOUT  CAPER 
SAUCE— "Although  caper  sauce  is  the  orthodox  ac- 
companiment to  boiled  mutton,  it  is  eqnally  good 
with  roast.  Those  who  doubt  should  try  the  ex- 
periment." OYSTER  SAUCE— "Take  i  pint  good 
white  sauce.  Open  and  beard  i  dozen  oysters; 
strain  the  liquor;  put  them  into  the  sauce,  which 
should  be  in  a  bain-marie  pan.  Warm  thoroughly, 
and  let  it  come  just  to  boiling  point;  then  pour  into 
a  hot  tureen  and  serve.  The  beauty  of  oyster  sauce 
is  that  the  fish  should  be  like  a  well-poached  egg; 
just  to  have  the  albumen  set;  no  more."  How  TO 
MAKE  OYSTER  SAUCE — "  What  a  popular  dainty  is 
a  tureen  of  oyster  sauce,  and  how  often  is  it  spoiled 
by  the  common  practice  of  letting  the  ovstersboil  in 
it!  The  proper  way  is  to  strain  the  liquor,  and  boil 
that  with  the  flou;  and  butter,  adding  a  dash  of 
cayenne,  lemon -juice,  nutmeg,  and  anchovy  essence, 
and  the  oyster  the  last  thing,  long  enough  for  them 
to  become  hot  through,  removing  the  sauce  from 
the  fire,  so  that  it  shall  not  boil  after  they  are  put 
in."  SAUCE  FOR  ROASTS — "  The  following  will  he- 
found  a  good  sauce  for  roasts:  Simmer  a  wine- 
glass of  red  wine,  an  anchovy,  a  little  stock,  a  chop- 
ped shallot,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon  in  a  saucepan. 
Pass  through  a  tammy,  and  mix  with  the  gravy  of 
your  roasts."  LIVER  SAUCE  FOR  SMALL  GAME — 
"Scald  the  livers,  and  mince  them  very  fine.  Melt 
a  little  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  a  little  flour  to  it, 


SAU 

and  some  minced  shallot.  Fry  for  a  fexv  minutes, 
add  gravy  stock  in  sufficient  quantity  to  make  a 
sauce,  a  pinch  of  powdered  herbs,  pepper,  salt,  and 
spice  to  taste,  then  the  minced  liver  and  a  glass  of 
port  wine;  boil  the  sauce  up  and  simmer.  Add  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon  before  serving." 

SAUCE  —ADMIRAL — Fish.  (See Admiral.)  A  LA 
MINUTE — Quick  sauce;  flour,  water  and  wine  in  the 
pan  the  meat  is  fried  in.  ALBERT — Cream-colored, 
sprinkled  with  parsley;  contains  shallots,  horserad- 
ish, vinegar,  broth,  veloute;  strained;  finished  with 
yolks  and  cream.  ALLEMANDE —  Cream-colored; 
slightly  acid.  (See  Allemande.)  ALMOND— Sweet; 
custard  with  pounded  almonds.  ANCHOVY  BUTTER 
SAUCE— Brown;  espagnole  with  anchovy  butter  and 
lemon  juice.  ANCHOVY,  ANCHOIS — Cream -colored. 
(See  Anchovy.)  APPLE — Stewed  apple  strained; 
little  sugar.  APRICOT — Sweet;  marmalade  diluted 
with  wine  and  sugar.  APICIUS'  SAUCE — Thick  sauce 
for  a  boiled  chicken.  "Pound  the  following  ingre- 
dients in  a.  mortar:  Aniseed,  dried  mint,  and  lazar 
root  (similar  to  assaf oetida) ;  cover  them  with  vin- 
egar; add  dates,  pour  in  liquamen,  oil,  and  a  small 
quantity  of  mustard  seeds;  reduce  all  to  a  proper 
thickness  with  port  wine  warmed;  pour  this  over 
the  chicken,  which  should  previously  have  been 
boiled  in  aniseed  water."  ARTICHOKE — Puree  of 
Jerusalem  artichokes  with  other  vegetables  and  sea- 
sonings. AURORA — Reddish  or  orange  color.  (See 
Aurora.)  AVIGNON — Cream  onion  sauce,  bechamel, 
garlic,  cheese,  oil,  yolks.  BACON  SAUCE  — Cold; 
fried  bacon  in  dice  mixed  in  sauce  like  Hollandaise. 
BAHAMA — Fish;  chillies  and  onions  in  the  fish  gravy. 
BEARNAISE — Yellow,  buttery,  with  chopped  green. 
(See  Searnaise.)  BECHAMEL — White;  cream  sauce. 
(See  Bechamel.)  BEURRE — Butter  sauce.  BEURRE 
XOIR — Fried  butter,  brown,  with  vinegar  added. 
BIGARADE-  Brown  orange  sauce;  juice  and  shredded 
rinds  in  espagnole  and  essence  of  game.  BLONDE — • 
Butter  sauce  made  with  stock  instead  of  water. 
BLONDE  FISH  SAUCE-  Cream-colored  with  fine  herbs 
mince  in  it,  lemon  juice  and  white  wine.  BOAR'S- 
HEAD  SAUCE— For  cold  meats;  currant  jelly,  port 
wine,  mustard,  orange  rind  and  juice,  shallot,  pep- 
per, mixed.  BOHEMIAN— White;  bread  panada  di- 
luted with  broth,  horseradish  and  butter.  BORDE- 
LAISE — Brown;  espagnole,  claret,  shallots,  garlic, 
lemon  juice,  parsley,  cayenne,  beef  marrow.  (See 
Bordelaifc.)  BORDELAISE,  WHITE  —  Butter  sauce 
with  shallots,  white  wine,  parsley.  BOSTON — Same 
as  Bohemian.  BOURGEOISE  —  Brown  gravy  with 
mustard  and  tarragon  vinegar.  BOURGUIGNOTTE — 
Brown;  Burgundy  wine,  espagnole,  onions,  mush- 
rooms, and  truffles.  BRAWN  SAUCE — Cold;  mayon- 
naise with  extra  vinegar  and  sugar.  BREAD  SAUCE- 
White;  bread  panada  in  milk,  onion,  butter,  flavor- 
ing of  white  wine.  BRESSOISE — Of  Hresse,  noted  for 
fat  chickens;  brown;  chicken  livers  and  shallots 
fried,  brown  gravy,  bread-crumbs,  orange  juice; 
passed  through  a  seive.  BRETONNE — Brown;  thin 
onion  puree  with  chopped  parsley.  BRETONNE, 


432 


THE   STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


SAU 

COLD — For  cold  meats;  vinegar,  sugar,  mustard  and 
horseradish.  CALIFORNIA — Brown;  same  as  Bour- 
guignotte  with  California  wine.  CAPER —  Butter 
sauce  with  capers  mixed  in,  and  caper  vinegar. 
CAPER  FOR  FISH — The  same  with  anchovy  essence 
or  mushroom  catsup  and  high  seasonings.  CARROT 
'  SAUCE — On  same  line  as  purde  of  celery,  etc. ;  puree 
of  carrots  in  butter  sauce.  CAULIFLOWER  SAUCE — 
For  boiled  fowls;  chopped  cooked  cauliflower  in 
butter  sauce.  CARAMEL  SAUCE- Sweet;  the  brown 
coating  of  candy  of  burnt  sugar  inside  of  a  pudding 
mould,  which  dissolves  into  sauce  while  the  pudding 
is  steaming.  CARDINAL— See  Card  nal  Sauce.  CA- 
ZANOVA  — See  Cazanova  Sauce.  CELERY  SAUCE — 
Cream -colored  or  brown;  pieces  of  white  celery 
stewed  and  added  to  either  Allemande  or  espagnole 
CELERY,  PUREE  OF — Either  white  or  brown;  celery 
passed  through  a  seive  added  to  sauce.  CHAMPIG- 
NONS SAUCE — Mushroom  sauce.  CHASSEUR — Hunt- 
er's sauce;  brown  sauce  with  tomato,  onions,  mush- 
rooms, parsley,  lemon  juice.  CHATEAUBRIAND — 
•Brown;  meat  gravy  or  beef  extract,  espagnole, 
wine,  lemon  juice.  CHERRY  —  Sweet;  cherries 
stewed  with  port  wine  and  sugar,  passed  through 
seive,  mixed  with  butter  sauce.  CHESTNUT — Puree 
of  chestnuts  mixed  w  ith  either  white  or  brown  sauce. 
CHEVREUIL — Poivrade  sauce  with  wine,  Harvey, 
currant  jelly.  CHILLI  —  Pink,  variegated ;  tomato 
with  chopped  red  pepper,  shallots,  sliced  green  limes 
mixed  in  white  sauce  with  catawba  wine;  butter  and 
parsley.  CHOCOLATE — Sweet;  chocolate  in  boiling 
milk,  sugar,  vanilla.  CLAM  —  Like  oyster  sauce; 
butter  sauee  with  clam  liquor,  yolks  to  thicken,  and 
cooked  clams  added.  CLARET — Sweet;  eggs,  sugar, 
claret,  cinnamon,  lemon  rind ;  whipped  over  the  fire 
till  thick  and  frothy.  COCKLE  SAUCE — Same  as 
scallops.  COLBERT — Brown  butter  sauce;  espagnole, 
beef  extract  or  glaze,  pepper,  butter,  lemon,  parsley. 
COURTBOUILLON  —  Fish;  white  butter  sauce  made 
with  the  boiled  fish  liquor,  boiled  onion  rings,  and 
parsley.  CRAB  SAUCE — Similar  to  lobster;  the  crab 
meat  in  shreds  in  butter  sauce.  CRANBERRY  — 
Stewed  cranberries  with  plenty  of  sugar.  CRAY- 
FISH— Butter  sauce  pink,  with  crayfish  butter  and 
crayfish  tails.  CREAM — Butter,  flour,  cream  or  milk, 
salt,  white  pepper.  (See  Roux.)  CREOLE — Brown 
tomato  sauce  with  shallots,  wine,  chopped  sweet 
pepper.  CRESS  SAUCE — Boiled  cress  (chopped)  in 
butter  sauce.  CREVETTES — Cardinal  sauce  with  an- 
chovy and  pickled  shrimps.  CUCUMBER— Sliced  cu- 
cumbers fried  in  butter  added  to  either  white  or 
brown  sauce.  CURACOA  SAUCE  —  Sweet;  syrup 
thickened  with  starch,  butter  and  curafoa  added. 
CURRANT  JELLY  SAUCE— Jelly,  espagnole,  and  port 
wine;  boiled.  CURRANT  SAUCE  —  The  preceding 
with  whole  red  currants  added.  CURRY — Yellow;  j 
onion,  ham',  and  parsley  fried;  flour,  curry  powder( 
broth,  strained,  thickened  with  yolks.  CUSTARD  j 
SAUCE — Sweet;  boiling  cream  or  milk  containing  4 
oz.  sugar  to  a  pint;  poured  upon  3  beaten  eggs; 
brandy,  vanilla,  any  flavor.  CZARINA — Brown  sauce 


SAU 

with  sultana  raisins,  gherkins,  etc.     DEMI-GLACE — 
Brown  sauce  obtained  from  the  roast-meai.  pan  by 
adding  broth  and  espagnole     DEVIL  SAUCE — See 
Devilled.    SAUCE  DIABLE — Devil  sauce;  grill  sauce. 
DIPLOMATS — Fish;    pink;   cream  sauce   with  lob- 
ster   or   crayfish    butter   and    anchovy    essence. — 
DIPLOMATS  —  Sweet;    "dip    sauce,"    thick    syrup 
with  flavorings.      DUCHESSE — Cream  sauce  with 
cooked    lean    ham    in    small  squares,  and    butter. 
D'UXELLES.    (See  Duxelles.)    EGG  — Butter  sauce 
with  chopped  hard  eggs.     ENGLISH    PUDDING — • 
Custard  with  sherry  whipped  over  a  slow  fire  tilj 
thick.     ESPAGNOLE  —  Brown  stock  sauce  made  of 
mixed  meats,  vegetables  and  aromatics  fried  brown 
in  butter,  broth  added,  tomatoes,  wine,  brown  roux, 
boiled  slowly  and  long;  strained.    ESSENCEOF  CEL- 
ERY— Green  celery  stalks  stewed  in  broth  and  the 
broth  added  to  white  sauce.    ESSENCE  OF  GAME — 
Whole  birds  or  rabbits,   etc.,  or    the  bones   only 
browned,  then  stewed  and  the  liquor  seasoned  and 
thickened.    (See  Fumet.)    ESTRAGON — Like  parsley 
sauce,  tarragon  instead  of  parsley,  and  little  tarra- 
gon vinegar.     FERMlERE-White,  containing  onion, 
capers,  ham  cut  fine,  wine,  broth,  butter,  flour,  pars- 
ley.   FINE    HERBS    SAUCE  — Cream-colored    with 
yolks,  shallots,  parsley,  white  wine  in  butter  sauce. 
FINES   HERBESfFr.)  —  Brown  sauce  with  chopped 
mushrooms,   shallots  and   parsley.     FLEMISH — Set 
Flemish  Sauce.    FENOuiL-Fish.    Like  parsley  sauce 
with  chopped  fennel  instead  of  parsley.     FINAN- 
CIERS— See  Financiere Sauce.    FLEURETTE— Thick- 
ened rich  milk.    FRUIT  SAUCE — For  frozen  pud- 
dings.    Marmalade   diluted   with  maraschino    and 
whipped  cream.     FOUETEE — Sweet.     Whip  sauce 
of  yolks,  sugar  and  wine.     FUMET  DE  GIIJIEK— See 
Fumet.     GAME  SAUCE — Gravy  from  the  roast  pan, 
carcasses  of  game  birds,  broth,  aromatics,  stewed 
together;   espagnole,  port  wine.     GENEVOISE  -  See 
Generoise  Sauce.    GERMAN — Cold.     Currant  jelly, 
orange,  horseradish,  sugar,  mustard,  vinejar,  oil; 
mixed.     GHERKIN — Pickle  sauce,  brown.     Poivrade 
sauce    with    sliced    pickled    Gherkinr,.      GIBI.ET — 
Stewed  liver  and  gizzards  divested  of  the  hard  lin- 
ing, cut  up  in  gravy.     GREEN  GOOSEBERRY  SAUCE — 
For  boiled  mackerel.  Berries  stewed,  passed  through 
a  seive,  mixed  with  white  sauce.     GROSEILLES  VER  - 
TES — French  gooseberry  sauce.  ,  Green  berries  with 
butter  and  bread-crumbs.     HACHEE  SAUCE-Brown, 
mixed.     Containing  shallots,  mushrooms,  gherkins, 
parsley,    capers,    vinegar,    wine.      HAM    SAUCE— 
Brown  sauce  with  ham  and  small  dice  and  shallots 
fried  together,  and  lemon  juice.     HANOVER — Liver 
sauce  for  fowls.     Poultry  livers   boiled,    pounded, 
with  cream,   lemon  juice,    seasonings;   made  hot. 
HARROGATE — Gravy  in  the  roasting  pan  with  shal- 
lot, lemon  rind  and  juice,  catsup,  claret,  cayenne. 
HARD — Sweet.     Powdered  sugar  and  two-thirds  as 
much  butter  worked  together  till  white  and  creamy. 
HAVRAISE — Strong  broth  of  boiled  fish  made  into 
white  sauce  with  yolks  and  cream.     HERB — For 
boiled  calf's  head.     Chopped   parsley,  chervil  and 


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433 


SAU 

chives  with  vinegar  enough  to  cover.  HESSOISE — 
Cold.  Horseiadish,  sugar,  bread-crumbs  and  sour 
cream.  HOLLANDAISE —  Yellow,  like  mayonnaise 
in  appearance ;  hot.  (See  Hollandaise)  HOLSTEIN— 
Same  as  Havraise.  HORSERADISH  SAUCES—  See 
Horseradish.  HOMARD — Lobster  in  small  pieces, 
with  lobster  coral  in  butter  sauce.  HUITRES — Oys- 
ters in  white  or  brown  sauce.  INDIENNE — Tomato 
with  curry,  anchovy,  lemon  juice.  iTALlAN-Brown 
or  white.  Espagnolt  or  veloute  with  chopped  mush- 
rooms, shallots,  parsley,  white  wine.  JAMBON — 
Brown  saute  with  shredded  ham,  butter  and  shallots 
lightly  fried.  JOINVILLE—  Fish,  orange  colored. 
The  fish  broth  made  into  butter  sauce  with  yolks, 
lobster  butter  and  lemon  juice.  JOLIE  FILLE— White 
chicken  sauce  with  hard-boiled  yolks,  bread-crumbs, 
butter,  parsley.  KARI — Curry  sauce,  same  as  In- 
dienne.  KIRSCHWASSER  SAUCE— Sweet.  Either 
cream  or  syrup  flavored  with  kirsh.  KITCHENER'S 
(Dr.)  BOTTLED  SAUCE — Mushroom  catsup  i  pt. ; 
claret  i  pt. ;  walnut  or  lemon  pickle  )X  pt. ;  pounded 
anchovies  4  oz. ;  fresh  lemon  peel,  horseradish,  shal- 
lots each  i  oz. ;  black  pepper  and  allspice  each  y2  oz. ; 
cayenne  and  braised  celery  seed  each  i  drachm;  in  a 
wide-mouthed  bottle  for  2  weeks,  shaken  daily, 
strained,  bottled.  LEMON — Sweet.  Either  custard 
or  syrup  flavored  with  lemon.  LIVOURNAISE — Cold, 
for  fish.  Mayonnaise,  pounded  anchovies  and  pars- 
ley. LOBSTER— Butter  sauce  with  anchovy  essence 
and  lobster  meat.  LYONNAISE— Rings  of  Bermuda 
onions  lightly  fried,  added  to  brown  tomato  sauce. 
MADElRA-Brown ;  espagnole  with  tomato  sauce  and 
madeira  wine.  MADEIRA,  SWEET — Yolks,  sugar, 
wine,  lemon  rind,  stirred  over  fire  till  thick.  MAITRE 
D'HOTEL — SeeMaitre  d  'Hotel.  MALT AISE— Brown ; 
fine  herbs  mixture,  sherry  and  orange  rind  in  the 
meat  pan  gravy.  MARINADE — White;  thickened 
broth  with  onions,  parsley,  aromatics,  vinegar. 
MARRONS — See  Chestnut  Sauce.  MARROW— Beef 
marrow  in  slices  added  at  last  to  brown  sauce. 
MATELOTE-See  Matelote.  MATRIMONY  SAUCE-For 
dumplings;  brown  sugar,  vinegar,  water,  butter  and 
flour  boiled,  thicker  than  syrup.  MAYONNAiSE-Cold, 
yellow,  salad  sauce.  (See  Mayonnaise.)  MEDICIS— 
Sweet;  chocolate -flavored  Bavaroise  made  thinner 
with  cream ;  cold.  MILANAISE,  WniTE-Cream  sauce 
with  grated  Parmesan.  MILANAISE,  BROWN  — 
Brown  sauce  with  mustard.  MINT — Cold;  fine-cut 
mint,  vinegar,  water,  sugar.  MIRABEAU — White 
garlic  sauce;  boiled  garlic  passed  through  a  seive, 
mixed  in  butter  sauce  and  glaze.  MIREPOIX — Sec 
\lirepoix.  MORELS  SAUCE  —  Brown,  like  mush- 
room sauce.  (See  Morels.)  MOULES — Mussel  sauce. 
MUSHROOM — Brown;  mushrooms  stewed  in  butter, 
espagnole  and  tomato  sauce  added,  and  wine,  lemon 
juice  and  parsley.  MUSHROOM  PUREE — White, 
mushrooms  chopped,  stewed  in  butter,  passed 
through  a  seive.  MOUSQUETAIRE— Cold;  mustard, 
oil,  tarragon  vinegar,  shallot,  salt,  cayenne.  Mou- 
TARDE — Mustard  sauce.  MUSSEL — Boiled  mussels 
in  Hollandaise;  like  oyster  sauce.  MUSTARD  SAUCE 


SAU 

—Mustard  mixed  in  butter  sauce;  for  broiled  fish. 
NANTAISE — Cold,  light  green;  pounded  lobster 
mixed  with  ravigote  sauce.  NAPLES— For  fish; 
cream  sauce  containing  shrimp,  anchovy,  shallots, 
capers,  flavor  of  garlic,  lemon  juice,  cayenne,  mace. 
XAPOLITAINE  —  Brown;  espagnole  with  currant 
jelly,  port  wine  and  sultana  raisins.  NEAPOLITAN— 
Brown;  espagnole,  currant  jelly,  port  wine,  horse- 
radish, ham  and  Harvey  sauce.  NICEOISE— Cold; 
yellow  with  green,  like  remoulade.  Made  with 
hard-boiled  yolks,  raw  yolks,  mustard,  oil,  vinegar, 
chives,  parsley.  NONPARIEL  —  Yellow,  for  fish; 
Hollandaise  mixed  with  lobster-butter,  red  lobster, 
mushrooms,  hard-boiled  whites,  and  truffles.  NOR- 
MANDE  —  Yellow,  creamy;  fish  broth  and  oyster 
liquor  thickened  with  roux  and  volks.  (See  Mate- 
lote ffo'tnande.)  ONION — Four  varieties;  onions  in 
brown  or  white  sauce;  onion  purees  white  or  brown. 
ORANGE  —  For  ducks;  brown  sauce  with  orange 
juice  and  shredded  peel.  (See  Biffarade.)  ORANGE, 
SWEET — Yellow  custard  with  starch  or  flour,  orange 
juice  and  rind,  and  curacao.  OUDE  SAUCE — For 
cold  meats;  lightly  fried  onions  in  butter,  tomato 
sauce,  chillies,  piece  of  dried  haddock  in  shreds, 
lemon  juice  and  water,  stewed  together,  used  cold. 
OYSTER  —  Sauce  poulette  with  oysters.  OYSTER 
CRAB— Sauce  poulette  made  of  fish  broth,  oyster 
crabs  added.  PARISIAN— Maitre  d'hotel  butter  with 
shallots  and  beef  extract  added.  PARISIAN,  SWEET 
— Sherry,  sugar  and  yolks  whipped  over  fire,  cream 
added.  PARSLEY— {/)  Chopped  parsley  in  butter 
sauce.  (2)  Parsley  juice  and  puree  in  butter  sauce. 
PEPPER— Brown;  espagnole  with  addition  of  water 
of  boiled  peppercorns  and  vinegar.  PERIGEUX — 
Brown,  truffle.  (See  Periffeux.)  PERSIL— Parsley 
sauce.  PERSILLADE — A  green  ravigote  of  chopped 
parsley,  chervil,  tarragon,  mustard,  oil,  lemon  juice, 
salt,  stirred  together.  PIQUANTE— See  Piquante. 
POIVRADE— See  Poh-rade.  PLUM— Prunes  cooked 
in  wine  with  cinnamon,  mixed  with  espagnole. 
POLONAISE — White  sauce  with  thick,  sour  cream 
added,  horse-radish,  lemon  juice,  and  chopped  fen- 
nel; for  steaks,  etc.,  in  Polish  style.  POOR  MAN'S 
— Broth  thickened  with  brown  roux,  tomato  catsup, 
essence  of  anchovy.  PORT  WINE  —  Brown,  for 
game,  etc.;  same  as  bourguiffiione,  with  port  wine. 
PORTUGAISE— Butter,  yolk  of  eggs  and  lemon  juice. 
POULETTE— See  Poulette.  PRAWN — Butter  sauce 
tinted  with  lobster  coral  and  prawns.  PROVENCALS 
Both  white  and  brown.  (/)  White  sauce  with  wine, 
tomatoes,  garlic,  mushrooms  and  capers.  (2)  Espa- 
gnole with  tomatoes,  onions,  garlic,  mushrooms. 
PUDDING  SAUCE,  CAREME'S — This  appears  under 
several  different  names;  it  is  Madeira,  sugar  and 
yolks  whipped  to  froth  over  the  fire;  allowed  ap- 
proach the  boiling  point,  but  not  boil.  PUNCH 
SAUCE  —  Sweet;  butter  sauce  with  lemon,  yolks, 
sherry  and  brandy  added;  whipped  over  the  fire. 
RAVIGOTE — The  name  relates  to  the  mixture  of  green 
herbs  (see  Ra-vigote)  which  may  be  either  in  oil  and 
vinegar  or  in  mayonnaise.  REMOULADE — See  Re- 


434 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


SAU 

moukiJe.  ROBERT — Name  of  a  Paris  restaurateur 
of  Rabelais'  time,  whose  specialty  this  sauce  was; 
brown;  espagnole  with  fried  chopped  onions,  mus- 
tard and  glaze  or  beef  extract,  onions  not  strained 
out.  ROM  AINE — A  sort  of  mincemeat  eaten  with  fish, 
being  currants,  raisins,  Italian  pignoli  nuts  (like 
small  almonds),  sugar,  vinegar  and  brown  sauce. 
RASPBERRY — Sweet  (/)  Raspberry  juice  and  sugar 
added  to  whipped  cream.  (2)  Raspberry  syrup 
slightly  thickened  with  starch.  RATAFIA  SAUCE — 
Sweet;  syrup  thickened  with  starch,  flavored  with 
lemon  and  ratafia  liqueur.  RAIFORT — Horseradish, 
cream  and  vinegar.  REGENT'S — Sweet;  vanilla 
yolk-of-egg  custard  with  rum.  RICARDO— Same  as 
salmis  sauce.  RICHELIEU — White  game -sauce  with 
onions  and  wine.  ROE  SAUCE — Fish;  soft  roes 
cooked,  pounded,  seasoned,  mixed  with  butter  sauce 
and  little  vinegar.  ROYAL — Another  name  for  Hol- 
landaise.  ROYAL  SAUCE — For  fowls;  puree  of 
chicken,  seasonings,  bread  panada,  cream  and  yolks 
stirred  over  fire  together.  SAUCE  A  LA  RUSSE— A 
•white  sauce  with  horseradish,  vinegar,  yolks  and 
cream.  RUSSIAN  SAUCE — Hot;  shallots,  lean  ham, 
herbs,  stewed  in  butter;  horseradish,  sugar,  vinegar, 
wine,  white  sauce  and  yolks  to  thicken.  RUSSIAN — 
Cold;  horseradish,  mustard,  sugar,  vinegar,  salt. 
SABAYON- — Sweet;  this  also  has  half  a  dozen  names; 
it  is  the  same  as  Carfime's  pudding  sauce  above, 
with  cream  added  and  whipped  with  it.  SAGE 
SAUCE— For  roast  goose  or  pork;  brown  gravy  in 
roast-pan  -with  chopped  sage.  SAINTE-MENE- 
HOULD  —  Cream  sauce  with  chopped  parsley  and 
mushrooms.  SALMIS — The  bones  and  trimmings  of 
birds  stewed  with  wine,  espagnole,  aromatics,  and 
sauce  strained  off.  (See  Essence  of  Game,  Fumel.) 
SAXONY — Fish;  butter  sauce  made  of  the  fish  broth, 
(see  Roux),  shallot,  mustard,  white  wine,  shredded 
lemon.  SCALLOP  SAUCE — Boiled  scallops  and  their 
liquor  added  to  butter  sauce  with  lemon  juice. 
SHALLOT-Light brown;  for  ducks,  pig,  game;  gravy 
from  baking-pan  with  chopped  shallots  stewed  in 
wine  and  butter  added.  SHALLOT  SAUCE,  MILD — 
Boiled  shallots  rrtinced  and  put  in  butter  sauce. 
SHARP  SAUCE — For  cutlets;  shallots  simmered  in 
butter  and  vinegar,  flour,  broth,  gherkins,  parsley, 
pepper,  salt.  SHRIMP  SAUCE — (/)  Cream  sauce  with 
cut  shrimps.  (2)  Butter  sauce  with  anchovy  essence 
and  lemon  juice  and  shrimps  mixed  in.  SHRIMP 
AND  ASPARAGUS  SAUCE — Butter  sauce  with  shrimp 
butter,  shrimps  and  asparagus  points.  SICILIENNE- 
Fried  onions  in  rings  in  espagnole  and  marsala 
wine.  SORREL  SAUCE — Stewed  sorrel  like  spinach 
mixed  with  either  white  sauce  for  boiled  meats  or 
brown  sauce  for  roast.  SOUBISE — Puree  of  onions, 
white,  with  bu'ter  and  milk,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg, 
pinch  of  sugar.  SOY— An  East  Indian  bottled  sauce; 
it  is  made  of  purple  wrinkled  morels,  galangal  root 
and  spices.  SOYER'S — A  bottled  sauce.  SULTANA — 
For  game;  sultana  raisins  in  game  gravy  with  port  | 
wine.  St-pREME-Cream  sauce  made  of  chicken  broth,  1 
butter,  flour,  essence  of  mushrooms  and  boiled  cream.  [ 


SAU 

TARTAR— Mayonnaise  with  mustard,  minced  gher- 
kins, capers,  chervil  and  parsley.  TEXIENNE — Same 
as  Creole  courtbouillon.  TOMATO- Tomatoes  passed 
through  a  strainer,  stewed  down  thick,  variously 
seasoned  and  compounded.  TRUFFLE  SAUCE-  Sliced 
truffles  fried  in  butter,  espagnole,  wine,  lemon 
juice.  (See  Perigeux.)  TORTUE — (/)  Turtle  sauce 
for  calf's  head;  brown;  espagnole  with  tomato 
sauce,  aromatics,  and  sherry,  (z)  Veal  brown  - 
gravy  with  shallots-,  basil,  thyme,  sherry,  lemon 
juice  and  rind  and  cayenne.  VANILLA — Sweet;  yolk- 
of-egg  custard  flavored  with  vanilla.  VELOUTE — 
The  sauce  which  is  termed  "white  sauce,"  yet  is 
not  cream  sauce.  It  is  the  stock  white  sauce  of 
which  other  sauces  are  made;  it  is  seasoned  broth 
thickened  with  white  roux,  is  fuller  flavored  with 
the  vegetables,  etc.,  in  the  broth  than  butter  sauce 
which  is  made  with  water,  yet  has  not  so  much 
butter.  When  veloute  is  further  eniiched  with  but- 
ter and  glaze,  and  has  egg  yolks  to  make  it  creamy, 
it  becomes  Allemande,  which  is  finished  with  a 
little  lemon  juice.  VERTE — Green  sauce;  ravigote. 
VKNITIENNE — For  fish;  white  sauce  made  of  sea- 
soned fish  broth,  yolks  added,  lemon  juice,  parsley. 
VERJUICE  —  For  ducks;  green  grapes  boiled  and 
mixed  in  espagnole.  VERT-PRE— For  eels,  pale 
green;  pur^e  of  spinach,  chives  and  tarragon  mixed 
with  white  ravigote  sauce.  VILLEROI  —  White 
sauce  flavored  with  mushrooms.  VINAIGRETTE — 
Chopped  shallots  and  parsley  with  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  oil  and  little  vinegar  and  salt;  cold.  WHITE 
SAUCE-Either  i-elottte  or  plain  butter  sauce.  WHITE 
WINE  SAUCE  —  The  broth  of  fish  that  has  been 
cooked  in  wine  and  water,  thickened.  LA  BELLE 
SAUCE — For  fish;  put  J£  pt.  of  cream  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  %  of  a  nutmeg  shaved,  not  grated.  Beat 
to  a  froth  the  yolks  of  2  and  I  whole  egg,  put  the 
cream  over  the  fire,  stir  till  it  thickens,  put  in  12 
oysters  (raw)  finely  chopped,  stir  till  the  cream  is 
quite  hot  and  the  oysters  just  set,  then  whisk  in  the 
eggs.  Just  let  the  sauce  thicken,  that  is  all ;  remove 
from  the  fire,  whisk  for  a  few  seconds  and  then 
dress  the  fish  with  it  after  tasting  it  and  seasoning 
with  salt,  or  the  salt  may  be  added  to  the  eggs. 
Garnish  the  fish  with  rings  of  apple  dipped  in  flour 
and  fried  brown,  alternated  with  half  rings  of  lemon 
pickle.  YORKSHIRE  SAUCE  —  Orange  sauce  for 
ham;  espagnole,  currant  jelly,  port  wine,  orange 
juice  and  boiled  rind  cut  in  shreds.  BOTTLED  TABLE 
SAUCE — The  recipe  for  making  the  genuine  York- 
shire Relish  is  probably  known  only  to  the  manu- 
facturers. However,  the  following  is  said  to  yield 
a  good  imitation  of  that  popular  sauce:  i  oz.  garlic, 

1  teaspoonful  cayenne,  2  tablespoonf uls  Indian  soy, 

2  tablespoonfuls  mushroom  ketchup,  and  i  pt.  vine- 
gar; boil  altogether  10  minutes  and  strain,  and  bottle 
when  cold.     BOTTLED  FISH  SAUCE— The  following 
recipe  will  be  found  to  yield  a  good  fish  sauce:  ij£ 
gals,  port  wine,  %  gal.  walnut  ketchup,  2  pts.  an- 
chovy sauce,   ^  doz.  lemons,  3  doz.  shallots,  ij4  oz, 
chillies,  2  oz.  horse-radish,   i  oz.  mace,  }4  oz.  mus- 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


435 


SAU 

tard;  boil,  strain  and  bottle.  YOUR  OWN  TABLE 
SAUCE — The  following  recipe  will  produce  a  good 
store  sauce :  2  pts.  port  wine  or  claret,  2  pts.  walnut 
ketchup,  2  pts.  mushroom  ketchup,  4  tablespoonfuls 
anchovy  sauce,  2  oz.  fresh  lemon  rind  cut  very  thin, 
2  oz.  finely  scraped  horse-radish,  4  cloves  garlic 
pounded,  i  tablespoonful  pepper,  i  tablespoonful 
allspice,  i  teaspoonful  cayenne,  the  same  of  celery 
salt,  or  bruised  celery  seed,  i  teaspoonful  curry - 
powder;  put  all  the  ingredients  into  a  stoneware  jar, 
and  shake  it  well  twice  a  day  for  a  fortnight;  then 
let  it  stand,  and  strain  it  into  small  bottles  for  use. 
These  quantities  will  make  very  nearly  a  gallon  of 
sauce;  it  will  keep  for  any  length  of  time  and  is  very 
strong. 

SAUCISSOX  (Fr.>— Sausage. 

SAUER-KRAUT— See  Cabbage.  Before  cook- 
ing the  sauer-kraut,  it  must  be  well  washed  in  sev- 
eral waters,  then  well  drained,  and  put  in  a  braizing- 
pan,  with  a  fine  piece  of  streaky  bacon,  a  few  Frank- 
fort sausages,  some  fat  taken  from  the  surface  of  the 
stock-pot,  and  a  ladleful  of  white  stock.  Stew  the 
sauer-kraut  for  3  hours,  letting  it  simmer  gently  all 
the  time  in  a  moderately  heated  oven;  but  the  bacon 
and  sausages  will  have  to  be  taken  out  when  done, 
and  put  aside  to  be  dished  around  the  sauer-kraut 
when  the  latter  is  served.  THE  ALSATIAN  WAY— 
Quartered  apples,  fat  salt  pork  and  a  clove  of  garlic 
are  put  in  to  stew  with  the  sauer-kraut. 

SAUSAGES — In  Vienna  a  mighty  fair  is  kept 
open  on  the  green  sward  of  the  Wurstl- Prater,  or 
Sausage-Park,  throughout  the  spring,  summer,  and 
autumn  months  of  every  year.  From  April  to  Oc- 
tober the  Sausage-Park  daily  teems  with  diversions, 
music,  and  mirth.  Excellent  beer,  and  plain  inex- 
pensive edibles,  are  dispensed  to  the  public  at  half  a 
dozen  spacious  wooden  pavilions,  surrounded  by 
scores  of  strong  tables  and  chairs,  amongst  which 
meander  the  itinerant  vendors  of  sausage,  for  the 
most  part  Italians,  whose  privilege  of  selling  their 
toothsome  wares  in  this  part  of  the  Prater  first  en- 
dowed the  people's  pleasaunce  with  its  predicate  of 
"Wurstl."  From  these  active  and  vociferous  mer- 
chants may  be  purchased  every  variety  of  the  "far- 
cimentum"  so  dear  to  Germans  and  Italians  alike, 
under  the  names  of  tnett-jjurst,  'salami,  leberwurst, 
mortadelhi,  brat-ourst,  blurtuurst.  Frankfurter,  and 
a  dozen  other  sorts  of  highly-flavored,  thirst-creat- 
ing compounds  of  meat,  spice,  and  garlic.  A  CON- 
SERVATIVE PUBLIC—  "Mutton  Sausages.  I  have  had 
tho  recipe  for  mutton  sausages  given  me.  It  seems 
good  and  feasible;  but  I  have  not  tried  it  yet.  These 
sausages  could  be  introduced  into  hotels  and  private 
families;  but  I  would  not  recommend  their  introduc- 
tion to  the  public  through  the  tnedium  of  restaurants 
or  shops.  The  public  only  admit  the  existence  and 
possibility  of  five  sausages  at  present;  viz.,  pork, 
beef,  German,  saveloys,  and  black  puddings,  and 
they  will  loo!;  with  great  suspicion  on  the  other  fifty 
'or  sixty  varieties  if  offered  to  them."  BOLOGNA 


SAV 

SAUSAGE — The  sausages  of  Bologna,  which  are  al- 
most as  highly  appreciated  as  those  of  Strasburg, 
are  made  with  10  Ibs.  of  fresh  pork,  chopped,  and 
mixed  with  half  the  quantity  of  bacon,  the  whole 
being  seasoned  with  salt,  saltpetre,  pepper,  and 
herbs,  and  afterwards  put  in  a  well-closed  bladder. 
1  he  sausage  is  next  steeped  in  brine  for  from  10  to 
12  days.  It  is  ready  to  eat  after  having  been  boiled 
for  2  or  3  hours.  HAMBURG  SAUSAGE— The  famous 
sausages  of  Hamburg,  which  are  known  in  all  parts 
of  Europe,  and  are  made  in  large  quantities,  are 
manufactured  from  the  lean  flesh  of  the  pig  and  the 
ox,  chopped,  and  mixed  together  with  fresh  pork. 
GERMAN  SAUSAGE— In  making  German  sausage,  a 
quantity  of  the  second  quality  df  pork — that  which 
is  welt  interlarded  with  fat — is  chopped  up;  but  not 
so  finely  as  in  the  previous  instances.  It  is  then  sea- 
soned with  parsley,  cinnamon,  bay-leaves,  pepper 
— both  in  the  grain  and  in  powder — and  spices. 
When  the  mixture  is  ready  for  filling,  it  is  passed 
into  skins  prepared  from  the  intestines  of  calves, 
I  and  divided  into  sausages  of  about  four  inches  in 
;  length.  These  are  then  exposed  to  smoke  fora  week, 
j  and,  before  being  eaten,  are  boiled  in  water  for  half 
j  an  hour.  In  some  instances,  pea- meal,  the  meal  of 
French  beans,  and  lentils,  are  used  for  mixing  with 
the  sausage-meat.  Cochineal  is  also  added  by  some 
makers,  in  order  to  produce  the  tint  which  is  so  well 
known.  In  the  south  of  France,  sausages  of  this 
kind  are  made  with  the  addition  of  garlic.  THE 
TRENCH  CREPINETTE — The  flat  sausage,  or  crepi- 
nette,  although  it  does  not  keep  so  well  as  the  other 
kinds,  is  more  delicious  in  its  fresh  state.  It  is  made 
with  the  same  mixture  as  that  above  described,  but, 
instead  of  introducing  the  meat  into  the  sausage - 
skin,  it  is  enveloped  in  a  piece  of  the  caul  of  the  pig. 
The  sausage  is  flat  and  oblong  in  shape,  and  is  either 
cooked  upon  the  stove  or  the  gridiron.  SWADDLED 
SAUSAGES — Paupiettes;  fresh  pork- sausages  fried, 
then  each  'one  rolled  up  in  6  or  8  young  cabbage 
leaves,  tied  with  thread,  fried  and  turned  in  the 
sausage-fat  for  20  minutes;  drained;  served  on  hot 
dish.  SAUSAGE  AND  POTATO  RISSOLES— Small  fresh 
pork-sausages  fried,  cooled ;  potatoes  prepared  as  for 
croquettes;  each  sausage  coated  with  potato,  egged, 
breaded  and  fried.  SAUSAGE  KROMESKIES— Cold 
cooked  sausages  dipped  into  pancake  batter,  dropped 
in  hot  lard  and  fried  brown.  SAUSAGE  PATTIES — 
Patty  or  "gem"  pans  lined  with  short  pie-paste,  half 
filled  with  sausage-meat,  lid  of  paste  put  on,  egged 
over,  baked.  SAUSAGE  PUDDING—  Put  %  lb.  beef - 
sausages  into  a  buttered  pie-dish  and  pouroverthem 
t  this  batter:  One  egg,  %  lb.  flour,  i  pt.  milk,  J^  tea- 
spoonfiil  baking-powder;  bake  i  hour.  SURPRISE 
:  SAUSAGES— Take  large  raw  potatoes,  cut  out  a  cork- 
shaped  piece  and  remove  part  of  the  inside  sufficient 
to  contain  half  a  sausage  divested  of  its  skin,  and 
;  bake  till  done.  (See  Potatoes,  Georgette  [a  la~\,  and 

SAVARIN— Brillat  Savarin,  noted  as  the  author 
of  the  Physiologie  du  Gout,  or  Gastronomy  as  a  Fine 


436 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


SAV 

Art.  He  was  a  French  advocate,  contemporary 
with  Cargme,  De  Cussy,  Dr. Joseph  Roques,  and  the 
last  notable  coterie  of  French  writers  on  gastronomy. 
He  died  at  the  age  of  seventy -one,  of  a  cold  caught 
at  Louis  XVIITs  funeral. 

SAVARIN  CAKE  — A  yeast-raised  cake,  not 
different  from  baba,  except  in  the  decoration  of  the 
mould  with  almonds;  after  baking,  the  cake  is  satur- 
ated with  orange-syrup  or  wine  and  curacao.  SAV- 
ARIN-CAKE  WITH  STRAWBERRY-SAUCE — "A  delici- 
ous entremets  just  now  in  the  strawberry  season  in 
Paris:  Cook  20  little  savarin  -  cakes  in  dariole  moulds, 
and,  as  they  come  out  of  oven,  dip  them  in  syrup 
flavored  with  lemon  and  orange-peel;  let  syrup  run 
off,  mask  them  with  an  icing  of  powdered  sugar  di- 
luted with  straw  berry -juice;  build  them  up  on  dish 
into  a  pyramid,  and  send  them  to  bible  with  a 
pur£e  of  strawberries,  diluted  with  vanilla-flavored 
syrup." 

SAVELOY — A  popular  variety  of  sausage  ready- 
cooked;  it  is  reddened  with  saltpetre;  made  of  2  Ibs. 
saltpetre- pickled  pork,  6  oz.  bread-crumbs,  4  sage - 
leaves,  i  teaspoonful  pepper;  filled  into  skins  and 
boiled. 

SAVORY — One  of  the  seasoning  herbs;  can  be 
grown  in  any  garden;  is  far  better  green  than  in  the 
dry  powdered  state  as  found  at  the  stores;  can  often 
be  obtained  in  regular  supply  from  the  market-gar- 
deners. There  are  two  varieties,  the  summer  and 
winter  savories, .  both  fragrant  and  most  excellent 
for  soups  and  stews. 

SAVOY  CABBAGE— A  variety  of  cabbage  with 
curly  or  crimpled  leaves. 

SAVOY  CAKE  — Sponge  cake;  called  by  the 
French,  biscuit  de  Savoie. 

SCALLOP— A  bivalve;  a  larger  sort  of  cockle, 
white;  shipped  like  oysters  in  bulk  without  the 
shells,  and  obtainable  at  the  fish-markets.  Can  be 
cooked  in  many  of  the  same  ways  as  oysters,  fried, 
scalloped,  in  soups.  SCALLOPS  A  LA  BRETOISE — 
Cook  the  scallops  in  a  little  white  wine  and  broth; 
cut  a  few  eschalors  in  small  dice,  fry  them  in  butter, 
add  the  liquor  of  your  scallops,  strew  fresh  bread- 
crumbs and  the  spawn  of  a  lobster,  chopped  parsley, 
salt,  pepper,  and  a  piece  of  fresh  butter;  fill  some 
scallop-shells  with  the  mixture,  cover  with  grated 
bread-crumbs,  sprinkle  a  little  melted  butter  over 
each,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven.  DEVILLED  SCALLOPS- 
Like  Philadelphia  devilled  oysters,  minced.  Take  a 
hundred  of  them  and  place,  sharp  edges  downwards, 
in  a  large  saucepan;  add  a  pint  of  water;  cover  the 
pot,  and  set  over  a  brisk  fire;  as  soon  as  the  shells 
open,  they  are  ready  for  further  treatment.  When 
cool,  mince  the  flesh  of  the  shell -fish  finely;  add 
bread-crumbs,  a  piece  of  butter,  pepper,  fine  herbs 
to  taste,  and  mix  the  whole  together  with  enough  of 
the  liquor  from  the  scallops  to  make  a  stiff  batter; 
fill  the  shells  of  the  largest  of  them  with  the  mix- 
ture, cover  the  top  with  fine  bread-crumbs,  moisten 
with  melted  butter,  and  place  in  a  brisk  oven  until 
they  are  nicely  browned. 


SCO 

SCALLOP  SHELLS  — Metal  shells,  silver,  or 
plated,  granite  ware,  or  tin.  They  are  made  in  the 
form  of  natural  scallop-shells,  that  being  the  hand- 
somest shape  for  holding  scalloped  fish,  clams,  lob- 
ster, and  all  such  dishes  to  be  served  hot  in  the 
shells.  Can  be  found  at  the  furnishing  stores. 

SCHMIERKASE— "Schmierkase  has  all  the  sea- 
sons for  its  own  among  the  Pennsylvania  farmers, 
but  it  is  only  in  the  fall  that  sauer-kr.iut  and  lod- 
•waerrick  get  their  work  in.  In  the  fall,  too,  metzel- 
sup  is  on  the  circuit,  and  many  rise  up  gladly  and 
clutch  it."  Schmierkase  or  smearkafe  is  the  cheese 
made  for  immediate  use  from  the  curd  of  sour  milk. 
The  "clabbered"  milk  must  be  heated  to  the  boiling 
point,  when  the  curd  becomes  solidified  and  the  clear 
whey  can  be  drained  off  by  pouring  the  whole  into  a 
cloth  and  hanging  it  up  to  drip.  May  then  be  broken 
up  and  seasoned  either  with  salt,  pepper,  and  cream, 
or  as  a  sweet  dish  with  sugar  or  fruit.  If  pressed 
and  kept,  it  ripens  and  can  be  made  a  good  imitation 
of  Xeufchatel. 

SCORPION  OMELETTE— "A  curious  dish  was 
prepared  the  other  day  for  a  British  traveler  in  Mex- 
ico. The  attendants  served  up  an  omelette,  and  the 
servants  partook  very  heartily  of  the  dainty  morsel, 
but  the  traveler  mistrusted  the  food  owing  to  certain 
black  particles  mixed  therein.  Inquiring  as  to  the 
nature  of  the  suspicious  ingredients,  he  could 
scarcely  believe  his  ears  when  the  reply  was  given: 
'Oh,  these  are  scorpions,'  and  an  investigation 
proved  this  to  be  true,  the  lower  orders  in  Mexico 
thus  utilizing  the  young  scorpions,  which  are  dug 
out,  hundreds  in  a  nest,  their  sting  being  cut  off  be- 
fore cooking." 

SCOTTISH  COOKERY— There  is  a  demand 
pressed  upon  hotel-keepers  and  stewards  for  pecu- 
liarly Scotch  dishes  for*  annual  celebrations  more 
frequently  than  for  those  of  any  other  nationality, 
and  the  following  repertory  will  be  found  useful. 
For  the  benefit  of  your  readers  (writes  Mac  Haggis) 
I  beg  to  send  you  the  following  recipe  for  GROUSE 
SOUP  which  is  a  most  palatable  potage.  It  is  usually 
made  from  birds  which  have  been  hashed  in  the 
shooting,  or  cheepers.  Let  the  grouse  be  plucked 
and  drawn,  joint  them,  and  stew  the  pieces  patiently 
in  two  or  three  pints  of  diluted  soup-stock  till  they 
are  tender.  Put  the  backbones  of  the  birds  in  an- 
ocher  pot,  and  simmer  till  all  the  virtue  has  been  ex- 
tracted ;  then  strain  the  liquor  from  each  pot  and  mix 
it  together,  restoring  to  it  the  best  of  the  joints. 
Give  this  a  smart  boil  in  another  pan,  season  to  taste 
with  pepper  and  salt,  add  one  knob  of  sugar  and  a 
glass  of  port-wine.  If  preferred,  a  little  bit  of  car- 
rot may  be  boiled  in  the  compound — many  persons 
add  a  slice  of  toasted  bread  cut  into  very  small  dice. 
This  soup  takes  about  two  hours  and  a  half  to  make 
ready.  Perhaps  some,  however,  would  prefer  to  try 
the  celebrated  POTAGE  A  LA  MEG  MERRILEES, 
which  used  to  be  served  at  Abbotsford.  This  soup 
was  "composed"  by  the  then  Duke  of  Buccleuch's 


THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


437 


SCO 

flief  at  Bow  Hill  in  honor  of  Sir  Walter  Scott.  A 
couple  of  '  array"  hens  or  blackcock,  an  old  grouse, 
or  two  or  three  cheepers,  with  a  partridge  or  two, 
are  necessary  for  this  compound,  but  no  stock  is 
used.  Cut  up  the  birds,  and  stew  them  in  as  much 
water  as  is  necessary  for  making  into  soup,  reserv- 
ing' twenty  or  so  of  the  fleshy  bits  for  after-use. 
Put  in  the  stewpan  the  heart  of  a  small  cabbage,  a 
cut  carrot,  and  a  few  large  beans  (about  a  dozen) 
which  have  had  their  skins  removed;  let  them  be  all 
slowly  stewed  for  three  hours,  keeping  the  lid  of 
the  pot  close.  When  the  time  is  about  up  for  the 
stew  being  done,  fry  the  reserved  pieces  quickly  in 
flour  and  butter,  place  them  in  another  pot,  and 
strain  the  liquor  from  the  stew  over  them.  Boil 
again,  with  a  head  of  celery  cut  into  very  small 
bits;  season  with  salt  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne.  The 
second  boiling  should  last  for  an  hour  or  so.  Note: 
Mac  Haggis  is  not  sufficiently  explicit  about  the  fry- 
ing "the  reserved  pieces  in  flour  and  butter,"  which 
cannot  be  done;  \)\\tmea.nsfairerevenir(feeRevenir) 
— to  fry  the  pieces  in  butter,  then  add  flour,  and  after 
that  the  stock,  which  will  be  thickened  by  the  ex- 
tempore ronx  thus  made.  SCOTCH  HARE  SOUP  — 
"While  I  am  in  my  battene  de  cuisine,  I  must  give  a 
formula  for  the  making  of  hare -soup,  as  it  is  served 
on  the  best  Scottish  dinner-tables— a  vastly  different 
compound  from  what  we  are  accustomed  to  in  Lon- 
don. As  much  of  the  blood  of  the  hare  must  be 
saved  as  possible;  so  that  snared  or  coursed  hares 
are  the  best  for  the  soup-pot.  Use  a.  couple;  cut  one 
in  joints,  in  order  to  make  a  stock;  boil  it  in  as  much 
water  as  may  be  required  for  the  soup,  with,  say, 
two  heads  of  celery,  an  onion  or  two,  and  an  apple 
pared  and  cored.  If  haies  are  scarce,  boil  3  Ibs.  of 
leg  of  beef,  bones  and  aM,  by  way  of  stock;  joint  the 
second  hare  carefully,  saving  ever}'  drop  of  the  blood, 
which  pour  into  the  stock,  both  being  cold  at  the 
time  of  mixing,  having  previously  strained  it  into  a 
clean  pan ;  set  on  the  fire,  and  stir  constantly  till  it 
boils;  then  add  the  joints  of  the  hare,  and  keep  the 
soup  simmering  till  they  are  cooked,  say  in  about  70 
minutes;  serve  very  hot,  with  a  portion  of  the  meat 
to  each  guest,  taking  care  to  give  the  head  to  a  pro- 
fessed epicure.  Sir  Walter  Scott  used  to  say  that 
hares  were  created  to  be  made  into  soup."  SCOTCH 
HOTCH-POTCH — "I  may  mention,  too,  that  I  am  the 
happy  possessor  of  a  '  plain  directions  '  for  making 
'hotch-potch'  and  'cockie-leekie.'  The  first  is  made 
of  a  great  variety  of  vegetables — grated  carrot  and 
chopped  carrot  as  well,  likewise  a  chopped  turnip 
and  a  few  small  turnips,  the  heart  of  a  small  cab- 
bage cut  into  shreds,  plenty  of  green  peas,  as  also  a 
few  beans  (they  must  have  been  skinned);  a  teacup 
of  cauliflower-heads,  and  a  little  parsley  may  also 
be  used.  The  best  meat  to  place  in  the  pot  is  4  Ibs. 
of  fresh  lamb  or  mutton,  cut  into  pieces  or  boiled 
whole,  according  to  taste,  but  it  is  best  cut  into 
mouthfuls.  All  the  green  stuff  required  should  be 
carefully  cleaned.  Let  the  soup  be  well  boiled,  and 
the  cook  should  remember  the  useful  seasoning  of 


SCO 

,  pepper  and  salt.  Do  not  make  more  of  this  soup 
than  can  be  consumed  at  one  sitting;  it  is  best  when 
I  newly  made.  The  cook  should  religiously  bear  in 
mind  that  the  potaffe  must  not  be  boiled  long  enough 
I  for  the  vegetables  to  lose  their  individuality.  Beef 
!  may  be  used  in  place  of  mutton."  SCOTCH  COCKIE- 
i  LEEKIE — "Is  a  very  appetizing  soup,  and  can  be 
made,  if  necessary,  without  a  fowl.  It  should  be 
'thick  of  leeks,"  cut  in  small  pieces,  the  rank  tail- 
ends  being  dispensed  with,  and  the  leeks  ought  to  be 
well  cleaned  and  the  roots  carefully  removed.  Three 
or  four  pounds  of  leg  of  beef  will  make  a  good  found- 
ation; boil  in  as  much  water  as  may  be  necessary  till 
the  meat  is  in  rags,  a  couple  of  big  leeks  being  boiled 
with  it.  Strain  off  the  liquor  and  place  in  it,  cut  up 
in  small  portions  half  a  dozen  or  more  big  leeks, 
which  boil  till  ready.  If  you  have  a  fowl,  cut  off  the 
fleshy  parts  and  cook  them  till  done  in  the  soup,  hav- 
ing previously  used  the  carcass  in  making  the  stock. 
The  compound,  seasoned  to  taste,  ought  to  be  'thick 
and  slab,'  therefore  grudge  not  the  leeks."  A  KET- 
TLE OF  KISH — "A  Tweed  kettle,  of  course,  which  is 
'  par  excellence '  the  kettle.  First  procure  your 
salmon,  empty  it,  and  trim  off  the  rougher  parts  of 
the  fins;  then  wash  the  inside  of  the  fish  well  with 
pure  cold  water,  and  cut  it  across  from  shoulder  to 
tail  into  many  slices,  each  being  about  three  quart- 
ers of  an  inch  in  thicknes.  Your  kettle  (or  pot),  with 
the  necessary  quantity  of  water  (enough  to  cover  the 
cut-up  salmon,  and  to  allow  of  a  little  'boiling  in,' 
as  also  of  a  helping  of  the  liquid  to  each  slice  of  the 
fish,  as  well  as  to  admit  of  a  portion  being  left  in  aid 
of  the  next  kettle),  should  be  on  the  fire,  and  the 
water  boiling  merrily.  Pop  the  slices  of  salmon  into 
the  kettle,  and  let  them  cook  for  fully  twelve  min- 
utes; and  remember  this,  the  water  in  which  you 
boil  your  fish  can  scarcely  be  too  salt — in  fact,  it 
should  be  as  brine.  Long  ago,  on  the  Tweedside, 
when  'the  kettle'  was  a  greater  institution  than  it  is 
now,  a  portion  of  the  water  in  which  one  fish  was 
boiled  was  preserved  as  a  foundation  for  the  boiling 
of  its  successor.  At  Abbotsford,  when  a  kettle  was 
served  on  Sir  Walter's  fishery,  the  usual  accompani- 
ment to  it  was  oat-cakes  and  flour-scones  well 
buttered,  no  sauce  being  thought  of  other  than 
that  with  which  the  '  venison  of  the  waters '  had 
been  boiled,  with  pei  haps  a  drop  or  two  of  vinegar." 
SCOTCH  BROTH — A  Scotch  Recipe.  Put  a  teacupful 
of  pearl  barley  into  four  quarts  of  cold  water,  let  it 
boil,  add  2  Ibs.  of  scrag  of  mutton  or  thin  flank  of 
beef,  two  onions,  two  turnips,  two  carrots  cut  in 
dice,  and  one  carrot  grated;  boil  slowly  for  three 
hours ;  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste  before  removing 
from  the  fire.  KALE  BROSE — Boil  an  ox-heel  in 
three  quarts  of  water,  letting  it  gently  simnier  for 
four  hours.  Shred  two  large  handfuls  of  greens  or 
sea-kale,  put  them  into  the  broth,  and  when  suf- 
ficiently cooked  stir  J4  P'nt  of  toasted  oatmeal  into 
a  little  of  the  fat  broth  in  another  vessel,  add  it  to 
the  rest,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  boil  all,  serve 
hot.  HOWTOWDIE  —  Truss  a  young  fowl  as  for 


438 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


SCO 

boiling.  Place  in  a  stewpan  4  oz.  butter,  and  when 
the  latter  is  quite  hot,  place  the  fowl  in  stewpan, 
and  allow  it  to  brown  nicely  all  over,  turning  it 
round  so  as  to  facilitate  this.  When  brown,  place 
a  bouquet  garnie,  seasoning  of  salt,  pepper,  three 
cloves,  three  small  onions  in  the  stewpan  with  the 
fowl ;  pour  %  pint  of  good  stock  over,  and  simmer 
gently  for  half  an  hour.  Now  turn  the  fowl  over, 
add  J£  pint  more  of  good  stock,  simmer  another  half 
hour.  Havr  ready  some  spinach,  nicely  cooked  and 
seasoned,  some  rice  plain  boiled,  and  put  in  small 
moulds,  and  some  sliced  truffles.  Lay  the  fowl  on 
dish;  the  gravy  will  now  be  a  rich  glaze;  pour  the 
gravy  over  the  fowl ;  arrange  spinach  in  small  pieces, 
or  a  border  of  it,  turn  the  rice  out  of  the  cups,  and  ar- 
range little  distances  apart  on  the  border  of  spinach; 
lay  a  nicely-shaped  piece  of  truffle  on  the  top 
of  each  shape  of  rice.  This  is  a  very  old  and  pala- 
table Scotch  dish.  MINCE  COLLOPS  —  i  Ib.  best 
rumpsteak  minced  fine.  Place  2  oz.  butter  in  a  pan, 
and  stew  the  meat  for  ten  minutes;  then  add  salt, 
pepper,  and  ^  pint  water;  simmer  very  gently  for 
over  an  hour;  add  a  dessert-spoonful  Worcester 
sauce,  and  the  same  quantity  of  flour,  mixed  in  a  ta- 
blespoonful  of  water;  boil  for  two  minutes;  serve 
with  sippets  of  toast  and  Swiss  eggs,  Swiss  EGGS 
— Butter  small  moulds  sprinkled  with  finely  chopped 
parsley,  pepper,  and  salt;  break  some  eggs,  place 
one  in  each  mould,  being  careful  to  see  that  the  yolk 
is  in  the  center  of  mould,  cover  the  moulds  with 
buttered  paper,  and  steam  for  five  minutes;  turn  out 
of  mould,  when  the  parsley  has  a  very  pretty  effect, 
all  over  the  white  of  egg.  SCOTCH  EGGS — Take  ^ 
Ib.  cooked  ham  or  chicken,  finely  minced  and  sea- 
soned, mixed  with  2  oz.  breadcrumbs,  and  one  well- 
beaten  egg;  form  into  oval  balls,  rather  larger  than 
an  egg,  egg  and  breadcrumb,  and  fry  in  hot  fat; 
drain,  and  cut  in  half;  scoop  out  a  small  hollow  in 
the  center  of  each  half,  and  place  the  half  of  a  hard- 
boiled  egg  in  each  piece  of  croquette,  press  well 
down  so  as  to  be  level  with  meat,  have  little  rounds 
of  buttered  toast  or  fried  bread,  place  each  Scotch 
egg  on  a  round,  and  serve  garnished  with  fried 
parsley.  SCOTCH  SHORTBREAD — i  Ib.  flour,  %  Ib. 
butter,  %  Ib.  sugar,  the  yolk  of  one  egg.  Mix  the 
ingredients  together,  and  work  very  well  for  quar- 
ter of  an  hour.  Roll  out  to  one  inch  in  thickness, 
cut  in  squares,  pinch  round  edges,  ornament  with 
peel  or  comfits.  Bake  in  very  moderate  oven  for 
half  an  hour.  The  oatcakes  are  made  of  very  fine 
oatmel,  water,  salt  and  a  little  baking  powder;  they 
are  baked  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  are  very  crisp;  it 
is  quite  a  mistake  to  mix  fat  or  butter  with  oatcakes. 
If  nicely  prepared  without  fat,  they  are  quite  crisp, 
and  far.  more  wholesome  than  when  fat  is  used. 
SCOTCH  WOODCOCK— Take  three  slices  of  bread, 
about  half  an  inch  thick,  remove  crust  and  toast 
quickly;  butter  on  both  sides  and  spread  anchovy - 
paste  thickly  on  one  side  only;  place  these  on  a  hot 
dish,  cover,  and  keep  warm  while  you  prepare  the 
sauce.  Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  with  a  pinch  of 


SCO 

cayenne  pepper,  until  they  are  smooth  and  creamy; 
pour  over,  stirring  all  the  time,  one  large  cupful  of 
hot  cream ;  return  to  the  saucepan,  and  stir  briskly 
until  the  sauce  thickens,  and  then  immediately  pour 
over  the  toast,  and  serve  hot.  Be  very  careful  not 
to  let  the  sauce  boil,  or  the  yolks  will  curdle.  SCOTCH 
OATMEAL  PORRIDGE — Half  fill  a  small  pot  with 
boiling  water.  FU1  your  left  hand  with  medium 
fine  oatmeal.  Trickle  it  slowly  through  your  fingers 
into  the  water.  Keep  stirring  this  with  a  spurtle 
(Anglice,  a  stirring  stick),  that  no  particles  may- 
stick  to  the  bottom,  and  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt.  Add  oatmeal  till  the  mixture  is  of  the  con- 
sistency of  treacle.  Leave  it  on  the  fire  three  min- 
utes longer,  stirring  all  the  time — in  all  ten  minutes. 
All  the  starch-cells  will  then,  (with  this  fine  cut  of 
oatmeal)  be  burst  open.  Lay  out  five  small  soup- 
plates  on  the  table,  the  usual  quantity  in  a  family. 
Catch  hold  of  the  bow  of  the  pot  with  a  cloth  be- 
neith  your  hand.  Pour  out  the  quantum  into  each 
plate,  using  the  spurtle  to  hold  the  pot  in  position. 
Leave  standing  three  minutes  to  solidify  and  cool. 
Supply  a  bowl  of  sweet  milk  to  each.  Half  fill  the 
spoon  with  porridge,  dip  it  into  the  bowl  to  fill  the 
other  half  with  milk,  and  you  will  have  an  article  of 
diet  surpassed  by  none  in  giving  you  brain,  vigof 
health  of  mind  and  body.  Porridge  made  from 
round  oatmeal  is  best,  but  it  requires  twenty-rive 
minutes'  cooking  before  the  starch -cells  are  all 
burst  open.  It  is,  however,  worth  the  trouble. 
SCOTCH  OATMEAL  CAKES— Put  a  small  teacupful 
of  waler  into  a  large  bowl.  Dissolve  in  it  three- 
fourths  of  a  spoonful  of  baking  soda  (bicarbonate  of 
soda).  To  the  solution  add  oatmeal  till  of  the  con- 
sistency of  dough.  Be  quick,  or  it  will  dry  and 
toughen.  Have  two  baking-boards  18  inches  by  18 
inches.  Place  the  ball  of  wet  oatmeal  on  one  of 
them,  sprinkling  dry  oatmeal  beneath  to  prevent  it 
adhering.  Roll  this  ball  out  with  a  2j{-inch  roller. 
Brush  all  the  dry  oatmeal  clean  off,  cut  off  the  rag- 
ged edges,  place  the  other  board  above,  reverse  and 
lift  the  former  board.  A  girdle  is  hung  on  the  fire. 
This  is  a  circular  sheet  of  sheet-iron,  iS  inches  in 
diameter.  Let  the  elongated  cake  of  oatmeal  slip 
from  the  baking- board  on  to  the  girdle.  Cut  the 
cake  in  four.  Repeat  the  operation  with  another 
cake.  When  half  done,  turn  the  four  cakes  on  the 
girdle,  as  they  will  by  that  time  be  "done"  on  the 
under  side.  When  ready  with  the  second  cake,  lift 
off  the  first  four  cakes  and  place  them  before  the 
fire  to  dry,  as  by  that  time  they  will  be  done  enough. 
This,  of  course,  has  to  be  noticed.  Regulate  the 
height  of  the  girdle  from  the  fire  according  to  the 
heat.  Remember  the  old  rhyme  that  King  Alfred 
forgot — 

"The  bannocks  are  burnin', 

And  ready  for  turnin'," 

and  you  will  have  from  the  ordinary  sweet,  fine 
Scotch  oatmeal  a  well -flavored  and  wholesome 
cake.  Fresh,  newly  made  butter  added  to  this  and 
a  finnon  haddock  will  make  a  very  palatable  break- 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


439 


SCO 

fast.  These  two  articles  of  food  have  been  the 
principal  cause  of  the  energy,  the  vitality,  the  force, 
the  vigor,  the  virility,  the  simplicity  and  the  ability 
of  the  Scotch  character.  SCOTCH  PUDDING-TO  one 
qvart  of  well-cooked  barley  add  six  ounces  of  sifted 
sugar,  mix  both  together  with  one  quart  of  milk  in 
a  stewpan,  then  add  four  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  a 
pinch  of  salt,  the  rind  of  a  lemon  rubbed  on  sugar, 
and  a  wineglassful  of  whisky.  Stir  the  whole  on 
the  fire  until  it  boils,  and  then  work  the  batter  per- 
fectly smooth ;  next  work  in  six  yolks  of  eggs,  and 
then  lightly  mix  in  six  whites  of  eggs  whisked  into 
a  firm  froth;  pour  the  batter  into  a  slightly  buttered 
pie-dish  and  bake'  the  pudding  in  moderate  heat. 
SCOTCH  IlAGGis-Take  the  stomach  of  a  sheep,  wash  it 
well,  and  let  it  soak  for  several  hours  in  cold  salt  and 
water,  then  turn  it  inside  out,  put  it  into  boiling  water  j 
scald,  scrape  it  quickly  with  a  knife,  and  let  it  re-  i 
main  in  water  until  wanted.  Clean  a  sheep's  pluck 
thoroughly.  Pierce  the  heart  and  the  liver  in  several 
places,  to  let  the  blood  run  out,  and  boil  the  liver 


THE   HAGGIS. 

Fair  fa'  your  honest  sonsie  face; 
Weel  are  ye  worthy  o'  a  grace 
As  lang's  my  airm. 

and  lights  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  When  they  have 
boiled  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  put  them  into  fresh 
water,  and,  during  the  last  half  hour,  let  the  rest  of 
the  pluck  be  boiled  with  them.  Trim  away  the  skins, 
and  any  discolored  parts  there  may  be,  grate  half  of 
the  liver,  and  mince  all  the  rest  very  finely;  add  a 
pound  of  finely-shred  suet,  two  chopped  onions, 
half  a  pint  of  oatmeal,  or,  if  preferred,  half  a  pound 
of  oat-cakes,  toasted  and  crumbled,  two  teaspoon  - 
fulsof  salt,  and  one  of  pepper,  half  a  nutmeg,  grated, 
and  a  grain  of  cayenne.  Moisten  with  half  a  pint 
of  good  gravy  and  the  juice  of  a  small  lemon,  and 
put  the  mixture  into  the  bag  already  prepared  for  it. 
Be  careful  to  leave  room  for  swerling,  sew  it  se- 
curely, and  plunge  it  into  boiling  water.  It  will  re- 
quire three  hours'  gentle  boiling.  Prick  it  with  a 
needle  every  now  and  then,  especially  during  the 
first  half  hour,  to  let  the  air  out.  A  haggis  should 
be  sentto  table  as  hot  as  possible,  and  neither  sauce 
nor  gravy  should  be  served  with  it.  The  above  is 
sufficient  for  eight  or  ten  persons.  A  SCOTTISH  BILL 
OF  FAKE — Dinner  given  by  the  Scottish  Society  of 
Sheffield,  at  the  Clarence  Hotel  in  that  town,  to 
commenimorate  the  anniversary  of  the  poet  Burns: 
The  Pncses  wi'  admonition  due  will  say  the  "Sel- 
kirk Grace." 


SCR 

Some  ha'e  meat  that  canna  eat, 

An'  some  wad  eat  that  want  it; 
But  we  ha'e  meat  an'  we  can  eat, 

Sac  let  the  Lord  be  thaiikit. 

THE  DENNER — First  Koiiu'-Cock  o'  Leekie.  Clear 
Turtle.  Scotch  Broth.  Second /?o«w'-Salmon,  Fen- 
nel Sauce.  Frizzled  Smelts,  Sauce  Tartare.  Bristled 
Glesca'  Magistrates.  7%/Vrf/fo««'-ScotclTCollops. 
Calf's  Heid  an'  Mushrooms.  Stewed  Kidneys  a  la 
Champagne.  Fourth  Roun'  —  The  Pibroch  will 
soun'  the  approach  o'  The  Haggis.  A  wee  drap  o" 
Talisker.  Fifth  Roun' — A  bit  wee  lambie  an'  a  bit 
o'  its  Mither.  Sirloin  o'  Beef.  Tatties  Biled  an' 
Chappit.  Bashed  Neeps.  Sixth  Roun' — Roastit  an' 
Biled  Bubbly  Jock.  Roastit  Deuks  an' Hens.  Tung 
an'  Grumphy  a  la  Champagne.  Seventh  Roun'— 
Some  sma'  Birds.  Roastit  Pheasants  an'  Muir  Fowl. 
Eighth  Roun'— Cabinet  Puddin'.  Lemon  Puddin'. 
Ninth  Roun'— Sultane,  French  Pastry,  Compote  of 
Rhubarb,  an'  Orange,  Greengage  an'  Apple  Tairts, 
Charlotte  Russea  n'  Raspberry  Creams,  Custard, 
Meringues  a  la  Creme,  Noyeau  an"  Maraschino  Jel- 
lies Trifle,  wi'  ither  sunkets  couthie  to  the  kyte. 
ZV.s-.stfr/-PIneapples,  Grapes,  Apricots,  Pears,  Oran- 
ges, Apples,  Filberts,  Walnuts,  etc. 

We  thank  Thee  for  these  mercies,  Lord, 

Sue  far  beyond  oor  merits; 
Noo,  waiter  lads,  clear  aff  the  plates, 

An'  fesh  us  in  the  spirits. 

Wines,  etc.  (List  on  the  Table).  But  nane  need 
drink  that  are  na  dry.  CURLER'S  PUDDING  — 
"At  a  supper  recently  served  at  the  Caledonian  Ho- 
tel, Oban,  to  the  local  Curling  Clubs,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Craig  Watt  (the  worthy  host  and  hostess)  created  a 
welcome  surprise  by  including  in  the  bill  of  fare  a 
"Curlers'  Pudding,"  a  novelty  not  less  delicious  to 
the  taste  than  singular  in  appearance.  There  were 
two  of  these  puddings,  one  at  each  end  of  the  table, 
exactly  the  size  and  color  of  a  pair  of  curling  stones, 
resembling  polished  Ben  Cruachan  granite,  and  sur- 
mounted with  a  pair  of  real  handles.  A  "  CALF" 
DINNER — At  a  dinner  given  by  Lord  Polkemmet,  of 
the  Scottish  Bar,  his  guests  saw,  when  the  covers 
were  removed,  that  the  fare  consisted  of  veal  broth, 
a  roasted  fillet  of  veal,  veal  cutlets,  a  veal  pie,  a 
calf's  head,  and  calf's-foot  jelly.  The  judge,  oo- 
serving  the  surprise  of  his  guests,  volunteered  an 
explanation.  "Ou,  ay,  it's  a  cauf ;  when  we  kill  a 
beast,  we  just  eat  up  ae  side,  and  down  the  other." 

SCONES — Scotch  name  for  baking  powder  bis- 
cuits. There  are  also  soda  scones,  or  biscuits,  gra- 
ham scones,  etc. 

SCOTCH  BUNS— Made  like  dumplings,  the  out- 
side being  light  dough  made  as  for  French  rolls, 
with  a  good  allowance  of  butter  in  it,  the  filling  a 
walnut-sized  ball  of  currants,  raisins,  almonds,  cit- 
ron and  spice  stuck  together  with  enough  butter  and 
flour.  The  dumplings,  flattened  a  little,  are  notched 
on  the  side,  allowed  to  rise,  egged  over,  and  baked. 
(See  Simnels.) 

SCRAG  OF  MUTTON  —  The  real  neck.  The 
neck  of  mutton,  or  lamb,  or  veal  mentioned  so  fre- 


440 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


SCR 

quently  in  cook-book  directions  generally  means 
what  in  this  country  is  called  the  rack,  the  best  part 
of  the  ribs  which  furnishes  the  shapely  cutlets. 

SCRAPPLE — Domestic  and'local  name,  credited 
to  Pennsylvania,  of  a  mixture  of  head-cheese  and 
cornmeal  boiled  together,  and  when  cold  cut  into 
slices  and  fried. 

SCUPPERNONG-A  large  Southern  wild  grape. 
Good  for  making  wine.  Comes  to  market  as  loose 
berries,  like  plums,  and  not  in  clusters;  not  choice 
for  the  table. 

SEA  COW— The  flesh  of  the  sea-cow,  found  in 
the  vast  rivers  of  Brazil,  resembles  fresh  pork,  and 
is  excellent.  Sausages  are  made  of  it  and  sent  to 
Portugal  as  a  great  delicacy. 

SEA  KALE — It  is  well  known  that  this  popular 
vegetable  is  used  in  a  forced  and  always  blanched 
state.  It  is  a  native  of  the  seashore  and  cliffs  of  the 
south  and  west  coasts  of- England.  "  For  centuries 
before  it  was  known,  as  now,  at  the  tables  of  the 
great  and  wealthy,  it  was  an  object  of  special  re- 
gard in  the  humble  dwellings  of  the  south  coast 
fishermen.  Clambering  up  the  cliffs,  and  swinging 
themselves  by  means  of  ropes  over  precipitous 
heights,  they  encountered  any  amount  of  danger  to 
obtain,  in  spring,  the  tender  shoots  of  that  delicious 
vegetable  as  they  were  just  emerging  from  the 
sand  and  shingle  in  which  they  grew."  It  is  cooked 
in  the  usual  way  for  greens  and  cabbage,  generally 
boiled  with  bacon. 

SEA  TROUT— An  American  sea-fish,  speckled 
and  otherwise  resembling  a  brook  trout,  yet  not  of 
the  salmonidae  family.  Common  and  plentiful,  from 
I  to  2  pounds  weight. 

SEA-URCHIN—  "Another  radiate,  and  the  only 
other  one  of  this  class  that  I  know  to  be  eatable,  is 
the  Echinus  —  the  sen-urchin,  or  sea-egg.  This 
animal  carries  a  system  of  channels  and  membranes 
in  a  hollow  globe  of  flinty,  but  brittle  texture,  cov- 
ered by  spines,  like  a  miniature  hedgehog  well 
rolled  up.  Examine  one  when  it  holds  no  eggs,  and 
you  will  find  nothing  eatable  about  it,  inside  or  out. 
"Whatever  the  season,  however,  but  especially  in 
summer,  a  large  proportion  of  them  will  contain 
several  bunches  of  orange-yellow  eggs  so  minute 
that  the  whole  contents  of  a  big  echinus  will  not  fill 
a  dessert-spoon.  These  eggs  taste  like  an  oyster 
and  are  nutritious;  they  call  for  no  cooking,  and  are 
easily  got  at.  Thus  they  have  always  been  fed  upon 
as  a  relish  by  half-refined  coast  people  like  those  of 
Eastern  Asia  and  its  neighboring  islands,  and  by 
the  well -supplied  Indians  of  Puget  Sound  and  Brit- 
ish Columbia,  and  have  proved  the  stand-by  of  mis- 
erable savages  whose  desolate  homes  afford  them 
little  else  to  maintain  life.  The  Neapolitan  poor 
are  not  as  a  rule  dainty,  but,  while  delighting  in 
sea-urchin,  they  look  down  with  scorn  upon  the 
Calabrese,  because  they  eat  sea-slugs,  which,  if 
properly  cooked,  are  not  very  bad." 

SEA-SLUG— See  Beche  de  Mer. 


SHE 

SEED  CAKES— Plain  and  cheap  sorts  of  cakes 
flavored  with  caraway  seeds.  (/)  Made  of  i  Ib. 
butter,  i  %  Ib.  sugar,  S  eggs,  3  Ibs.  flour,  6  teaspoons 
powder,  i  o^.  caraway  seed,  ij^  pts.  milk,  3  oz.  cit- 
ron chopped  fine ;  baked  in  moulds.  (2)  i  Ib.  sugar, 
y±  Ib.  butter,  5  eggs,  3^  Ibs.  flour,  6  teaspoons  pow- 
der, i  qt.  milk,  lemon  extract  and  J^  oz.  caraway 
seeds;  baked  in  small  moulds. 

SEMOLIXA — Known  in  this  countrv  as  farina; 
it  is  the  same  thing  made  from  wheat  that  fine 
hominy  "grils"  is  from  corn.  (See  Farina,  Soups.) 

SERVIETTE  (Fr.)  -Napkin. 

SHAD— American  sea-fish;  an  early  spring  lux- 
ury. It  enters  the  rivers  in  immense  shoals,  the 
southern  rivers  first  and  those  further  northward  in 
succession  as  the  season  advances,  where  it  is  taken 
and  shipped  to  all  parts  of  the  country.  The  shad 
rarely  exceeds  4  Ibs.  weight,  it  tastes  like  fresh  her- 
ring, is  best  broiled,  but  is  cooked  in  a  variety  of 
other  ways.  The  one  drawback  is  the  abundance 
of  small  bones  in  its  flesh.  When  to  be  broiled,  or 
opened  and  stuffed,  the  back -bone  should  be  re- 
moved and  then  the  rib  bones  drawn  out  with  the 
fingers,  which  will  be  found  an  improvement  and 
facilitates  the  carving  of  the  fish.  BROILED  SHAD 
A  LA  CLERMONT — Split  down  the  back,  the  spine 
removed,  the  fish  steeped  an  hour  in  oil  and  lemon 
juice,  broiled,  doubled  to  its  original  shape,  served 
with  fried  oysters  and  fried  pieces  of  shad  roe 
around  and  maitrt  d'hotel  sauce.  ALOSE  A  LA 
MAITRE  D'HOTEL — Shad  cooked  as  above,  served 
flat  as  it  is,  broiled,  with  the  sauce  and  parsley  and 
lemons. 

SHAD  ROES— See  Fish  Roes,  Laitantes. 

SHADDOCK  OR  "GRAPE  FRUIT"  — The 
shaddock  is  a  handsome,  though  scarcely  a  delicious, 
addition  to  our  dessert  fruits;  the  flavor  of  its  juice 
being  a  sweetish  acid,  intermediate  between  that  of 
the  orange  and  the  lemon,  with  rather  a  bitter  taste. 
i  It  may  not  be  generally  known  that  the  best  marma- 
lade is  produced  from  the  shaddock,  a  sort  of  cross 
between  the  orange  and  the  lemon,  and  named  after 
a  Captain  Shaddock,  who  first  brought  it  from 
China,  or,  as  some  say,  from  Guinea,  and  planted  it 
in  the  West  Indies,  whence  we  derive  our  limited 
supply. 

SHALLOT— That  variety  of  onion  which  grows 
from  a  bunch  of  roots  and  does  not  form  one  com- 
pact bulb.  It  brings  the  earliest  spring  onions,  the 
roots  being  divided  and  planted  singly.  Is  oftenest 
named  in  cooking  directions,  as  it  is  the  mildest 
flavored  of  the  onion  tribe. 

SHARK— In  Havana  the  shark  is  sold  as  food  in 
the  open  market.  The  almond-eyed  heathen  Chin- 
ese loves  shark's  fins  cooked  with  bamboo  shoots. 

SHEEPHEAD— An  American  sea-fish  of  excel- 
lent quality.  Its  name  is  misleading,  unless  spelled 
as  above,  to  those  who  do  not  know  that  actual 
sheeps'  heads  are  not  euten  in  the  United  States.  It 


THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


441 


SHE 

is  very  generally  spelled  sheeps-head  in  the  North 
and  sheepheud  in  the  South;  the  latter  is  the  right 
way,  as  it  is  not  a  sheep's  head,  but  a  sheep-headed 
fish,  the  resemblance  consisting  in  its  having  rows 
of  front  teeth  and  a  sheep-like  mouth.  It  is  best 
cooked  by  boiling.  . 

SHEKRA1 1—"  I  remember  one  day  at  a  chapar- 
kliana  in  Persia  the  chapar-jee  said  he  could  pro- 
vide me  with  both  eggs  and  sheerak.  Sheerah  is  a 
sort  of  thin  molasses  made  from  sweet  grapes.  He 
seemed  a  pretty  intelligent  sort  of  a  young  man,  so 
I  contented  myself  with  telling  him  to  go  ahead  and 
cook  the  eggs.  When  supper-time  came  round  the 
salaaming  chapar-jee  presented  himself  with  a  low 
obeisance  and  served  the  eggs — scrambled  in  the 
molasses!"  . 

SHRIMP — The  true  shrimp  is  much  smaller  than 
the  prawn,  which  is  called  shrimp  in  the  United 
States,  and  therefore  not  so  suitable  for  cooking 
purposes,  hut  is  tenderer  and  of  finer  flavor  and 
hence  better  as  a  relish  for  breakfast  or  tea.  It  is 
of  a  reddish  brown  color  after  boiling,  the  prawn  a 
light  pink.  SHRIMPS  FRIED  IN  THEIR  SHELLS  — 
Are  very  delicious;  like  whitebait,  but  richer. 
Should  any  epicurean  reader  desire  to  try  this  dish, 
he  should  fry  the  shrimps,  as  they  come  from  the 
sea,  not  as  they  are  sold  by  the  fishmonger,  these 
being  already  boiled  in  salt  water.  SHRIMPS  BOILED 
— "Anent  those  tasty  hors  d'oeuvres,  shrimps,  it 
may  be  well  to  note  that  their  flavor  is  immensely 
improved  by  adding  2  or  3  glasses  of  sherry  or  other 
white  wine  to  the  water  in  which  they  are  boiled." 
SHRIMP  CROQUETTES — A  novelty;  are  now  intro- 
duced in  the  fish  course  by  fashionable  caterers. 
SHRIMP  ROLLS — Cut  some  thin  slices  of  bread  and 
butter  from  a  tin  loaf,  which  must  be  fresh,  but  not 
too  new,  or  it  will  not  cut  well.  Cut  off  the  crust, 
and  on  each  slice  sprinkle  a  few  shrimps,  from 
which  the  shells  have  just  been  taken.  Roll  up  each 
slice,  taking  care  to  keep  them  just  one  size,  build 
them  up  on  a  napkin,  and  garnish  with  little  sprigs 
of  parsley.  ESSENCE  OF  SHRIMPS  —  "At  the  bay 
shrimps  of  excellent  flavor  are  caught  in  abundance, 
and  one  resident  does  quite  a  trade  in  potting  and 
converting  them  into  'essence.'  Let  those  who 
swear  by  '  anchovy '  as  a  fish  relish  or  sauce  try 
_ essence  of  shrimps,  and  we  fancy  they  will  not  for- 
sake it  thereafter.' 

SHRUB— Name  of  a  mixture  of  fruit  syrup  and 
spirit.  RUM  SHRUB — A  mixture  of  2  qts.  rum  with 
i  qt.  lemon  syrup. 

SIMNEL  CAKES— They  are  raised  cakes,  the 
crust  of  which  is  made  of  fine  flour  and  water,  with 
sufficient  saffron  to  give  it  a  deep  yellow  color,  and 
the  interior  is  filled  with  the  materials  of  a  very  rich 
plum  cake,  with  plenty  of  candied  lemon  peel  and 
other  good  things.  They  are  made  up  very  stiff, 
tied  up  in  a  cloth  and  boiled  for  several  hours,  after 
which  they  are  brushed  over  with  eggs  and  then 
baked.  In  Shropshire  where  simnels  are  an  institu-  I 


SME 

tion,  a  curious  legend  attaches  to  them.     An  old 
couple  named  Simon  and  Nelly,  so  the  story  goes, 
used  up  the  remains  of  the  unleavened  dough  pro- 
vided for  the  fasting  season,  and  mixed  with  it  some 
plum-pudding  left  from  Christmas,  and  some  eggs, 
and  so  made  a  cake  for  the  Easter  feast  when  their 
children  visited  them.    It  is  said  that  the  result  was 
so  appreciated  that  "Simon  and  Nelly  Cake"  became 
widely  known;  but  the  name  was  soon  curtailed  to 
"Sim  Nell."     As  a  presentation -cake  nothing  is 
more  suitable  than  the  Simnel,  as,  indeed,  may  be 
gathered  from  the  following  quaint  rhymes  in  Har- 
land's  "Lancashire  Legends." 
The  goode  rounde  sugarye, 
Kinge  of  cakes,  a  Symnelle 
It  speaks  of  deareste  familye  tyes, 
From  friende  to  friende  in  Lent  it  hyes; 
To  all  good  fellowshippe  yt  cries, 
"I'm  a  righte  trewe  Symnelle." 
Long  may  symbolique  symnelle  send 
Friende's  everye  lovynge  wishe  to  friende, 
From  "Auld  Lang  Syne,"  till  tyme  shall  ende 
The  goode  olde  Symnelle. 

SIPPETS— Little  pieces  of  bread  for  soup.  Bread 
cut  in  thin  slices,  then  cut  in  small  triangles,  and 
dried  or  lightly  toasted  in  the  oven.  Sippet  is  the 
English  equivalent  of  crouton,  but  the  latter  word  is 
more  generally  used  to  designate  fried  sippets. 

SKATE- A  flat  and  long-tailed  fish  of  the  ray 
family,  common  and  cheap  in  French  and  English 
markets.  RATE  A  LA  MAITRE  D'HOTEL  —  Skate 
boiled  and  served  with  hot  maitre  d'hotel  sauce. 
RAIE  FRITE— Skate  cut  in  fillets  breaded  and  fried. 
RAIE  AU  BEURRE  NOIR — Slices  crimped  and  boilea 
served  with  black-butter  sauce.  RAIE  A  LA  NOI- 
SETTE— Skate  filleted  and  boiled;  served  in  butter 
sauce  with  the  pounded  liver  of  the  skate  and  tarra- 
gon vinegar.  RAIE  AUX  FINES  HERBES — A  fricas- 
see of  skate,  or  white  stew  with  mushrooms,  shal- 
lots, parsley,  butter  and  lemon  juice. 

SMELT— A  small  salt-water  fish  of  delicate  fla- 
vor when  fresh,  and  emitting  an  odor  which  has 
been  likened  to  the  smell  of  violets,  and,  again,  to 
the  odor  of  freshly -cut  cucumbers.  It  loses  this 
perfume  in  a  few  hours,  and  when  shipped  to  west- 
ern markets  as  it  is  in  boxes  of  convenient  size,  like 
crates  of  fruit,  it  becomes  a  very  commonplace  fish 
by  the  time  it  reaches  the  consumer.  SMELTS,  TO 
DRAW — They  should  never  be  opened,  but  drawn  by 
the  gills  and  the  roe  left  inside.  The  heads  are  left 
on  for  most  of  the  styles  of  cooking.  The  simplest 
treatment  is  the  best  when  the  fish  are  fresh,  and 
they  should  be  merely  rolled  in  flour  and  fried 
quickly  in  a  kettle  of  hot  fat.  SMELTS  A  LA  BRO- 
CHETTE — Floured,  run  upon  a  skewer  side  by  side, 
head  to  tail  alternately,  dropped  into  hot  lard  and 
fried;  served  on  the  skewers  if  silver  or  plated, 
otherwise  slipped  off  the  skewer  on  to  a  hot  dish; 
garnished  with  parsley  and  lemons.  EPERLANS  A 
LA  JUIVE— Smelts  in  Jewish  style;  egged,  breaded, 
fried  in  oil;  served  without  sauce.  EPERLANS  A 


442 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


L'ANGLAISE — Smelts  frieo  and  served  with  anchovy 
sauce.  EPEKLANS  EN  RAGOUT — Smelts  stewed  in 
white  stock  with  herbs  and  wine.  EPERLANS  AC 
GRATIN — Seasoned  with  dried  herbs  and  dipped  in 
butter,  covered  with  bread-crumbs,  sprinkled  with 
wine  and  melted  butter,  and  baked  brown.  Btns- 
SON  D'EPERLANS — The  fish  trussed  in  ring-form, 
with  their  tails  in  their  mouths,  and  fried;  built  up 
in  the  dish,  garnished  with  fried  parsley;  butter 
sauce  served  aside.  Smelts  are  also  broiled,  plainly, 
and  either  broiled  or  fried  are  served  with  tomato 
sauce  or  tartar  sauce,  and  also  as  a  garnish  with 
larger  fish.  BOILED  SMELTS— Clean,  scale,  wash, 
and  dry  the  smelts;  boil  them  in  equal  quantities  of 
white  wine  and  water,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  olive-oil, 
and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  %  lemon  peeled 
and  sliced;  when  done,  dish  up  covered  with  the 
following  sauce:  Take  a  tumblerfuls  of  white  wine, 
a  lump  of  butter  mixed  with  a  little  flour,  salt,  pep- 
per, the  juice  of  I  lemon,  i  head  of  garlic  blanched 
and  pounded,  and  chopped  parsley  and  chives ;  warm 
in  a  saucepan  and  pour  over  the  fish.  STEWED 
SMELTS — Place  in  a  china  fire-proof  dish,  pour  over 
them  a  sauce  made  with  fish  or  veal  stock,  chopped 
onions,  capers,  and  fine  herbs,  and  a  little  chablis 
wine;  let  them  cook  in  the  oven  till  tender,  and  serve 
in  the  same  dish.  Always  cut  off  the  head  for  this 
mode  of  dressing  smelts. 

SNAILS— The  "poor  man's  oyster"  is  so  appre- 
ciated by  the  French  that  Paris  alone  consumes  some 
forty-nine  tons  daily,  the  best  kind  coming  from  Gre- 
noble or  Burgundy.  The  finest  specimens  are  care- 
fully reared  in  an  escargotiere,  or  snail-park,  such 
as  the  poor  Capuchin  monks  planned  in  bygone  days 
at  Colmar  and  Weinbach,  when  they  had  no  money 
to  buy  food,  and  so  cultivated  snails.  But  the  ma- 
jority are  collected  by  the  vine -dressers  in  the  even- 
ing from  stone  heaps,  where  the  snails  have  assem- 
bled to  enjoy  the  dew.  The  creatures  are  then 
starved  in  a  dark  cellar  for  two  months,  and  when 
they  have  closed  up  the  aperture  of  their  shells,  are 
ready  for  cooking.  According  to  the  true  Burgundy 
method,  they  are  boiled  in  five  or  'six  waters,  ex- 
tracted from  the  shell,  dressed  with  fresh  butter  and 
garlic,  then  replaced  in  the  shell,  covered  with  pars- 
ley and  bread-crumbs,  and  finally  simmered  in  white 
wine.  "Snail  farms"  have  been  introduced  in  Switz- 
erland, where  many  gardens  round  Davos  and  Land- 
guart,  in  the  Orisons,  are  used  for  the  sole  cultiva- 
tion of  that  Continental  delicacy,  escargots  de  Bour- 
gogne.  A  recent  authority  states  that  enormous 
quantities  of  snails  are  forwarded  annually  f romMar  - 
seilles  and  Genoa  to  Paris,  and  that  tens  of  thousands 
find  their  way  to  the  markets  of  Bordeaux,  Lyons, 
Vienna,  and  Munich.  Such  is  the  demand,  that  many 
persons  now  "cultivate"  snails  for  the  markets,  and 
find  the  business  a  remunerative  one.  As  many  as 
twenty  or  thirty  thousands  can  be  bred  in  a  very 
small  space.  A  damp  and  shady  nook  is  selected 
for  the  "park,"  and  the  prisoners  are  kept  within 
bounds  by  the  simple  contrivance  of  sawdust  and 


SNA 

brambles.  This  does  very  well  in  dry  weather,  but 
when  it  rains,  the  farmer's  wife  and  children  must 
be  constantly  on  the  alert  to  turn  back  the  run- 
aways. The  Viennese  are  the  greatest  snail -eaters 
in  the  world.  The  town  of  Ulm,  on  the  Danube,  is 
the  principal  place  where  snails  are  fattened  for  the 
market,  and  those  which  are  picked  from  the  straw- 
berry-beds command  the  highest  prices.  Importa- 
tion of  snails  for  American  consumption  is  said  to 
be  steadily  increasing  every  year.  Snails  are  ob- 
tainable at  certain  stores  and  in  the  French  markets 
of  Xew  Orleans  all  times  during  the  winter.  The 
snails  have  sealed  themselves  up  in  their  shells  for 
their  winter,  hybernation,  and  are  exposed  for  sale  in 
baskets,  as  dry  as  beans.  ESCARGOTS  A  LA  BOUK- 
GIGNONNE  —  Suppose  they  are  to  be  cooked  a  la 
Bourgignonne,  the  shells  are  carefully  washed  and 
laid  on  one  side;  parsley,  garlic,  chives  orechalotte, 
mushroom  and  butter,  are  then  chopped  together 
into  a  paste,  a  little  of  this  is  put  into  the  empty 
shell,  and  the  snail  after  being  washed  is  restored 
to  its  dwelling,  and  the  opening  is  finally  filled  up 
with  paste;  they  are  then  baked  in  a  dish  of  white 
wine  for  half  an  hour,  with  fire  above  and  below 
them.  From  this  description  it  will  be  rightly  in- 
ferred, that  to  cook  snails  a  la  Bourgignonne  is  no 
simple  matter.  SYRUP  OF  SNAILS— A  certain  cor- 
dial made  with  snail-meat  (strop  d'escargots)  is  re- 
commended by  medical  authorities  as  an  alleviative 
of  pulmonary  affections;  and  SNAIL  SOUP  (bouillon 
d' escargots)  is  a  preparation  which  possesses  very 
strengthening  properties.  SNAILS  RAW  ox  THE 
SHELL — Sceptics  who  do  not  believe  in  the  sto- 
machic value  of  the  snail  will  hear  with  no  little 
disgust  that  they  are  sometimes  eaten  alive  by  per- 
sons who  profess  a  great  faith  in  their  curative 
virtues.  They  first  break  the  shell  to  extricate  the 
inmate,  which  is  then  well  washed  and  swallowed 
like  an  oyster.  I  have  never  tasted  raw  snails,  and 
have  no  special  desire  to  do  so,  but  I  have  been  as- 
sured by  those  who  have  had  the  courage  to  try  the 
experiment  that  the  gastronomic  sensation  is  a  most 
agreeable  one.  SNAILS  FOR  THE  RESTAURANTS — 
The  mode  of  preparing  the  snails  for  consumption 
is  very  simple,  but  requires  a  deal  of  care  and  clean- 
liness. The  first  thing  to  do  is  to  scrape  off  the  clay 
that  covers  the  aperture,  then  the  shells  are  placed 
in  large  vessels  containing  water,  salted  and  acid- 
ulated with:  vinegar.  The  object  of  this  is  to  cause 
the  animal  to  throw  off  the  slime  and  impurity  with 
which  it  is  impregnated.  After  half  an  hour's 
soaking  the  snails  are  washed  in  cold  water,  placed 
in  large  wicker-baskets,  and  plunged  into  immense 
coppers  containing  boiling  water,  where  they  are 
allowed  to  simmer  for  five  minutes.  N'ext,  with  the 
aid  of  a  smali  two-pronged  fork,  the  snails  are  re- 
moved one  by  one  from  their  shells,  thrown  into 
boiling  water  slightlv  salted,  garnished  with  vege- 
tables and  allowed  to  cook  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hour.  The  cleaning  of  the  empty  shells  is  an  im- 
portant point.  After  being  well  scrubbed  and 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


443 


SNA 

washed,  they  are  put  to  boil  for  two  hours  in  plenty 
of  water  containing  soda  in  the  proportion  of  one 
ounce  for  every  hundred  shells.  Finally  they  are 
washed  again,  drained  and  dried  in  hot  closets. 
The  next  process  is  the  refilling  of  the  shells.  SNAIL 
MEAT — "People  who  have  tasted  periwinkles  may 
easily  form  an  idea  as  to  the  nature  of  the  contents 
of  a  snail-shell.  The  substance  of  one  resembles 
the  substance  of  the  other,  but  the  taste  differs  es- 
sentially. There  is  a  pleasing  and  distinctive  flavor 
belonging  to  the  inmate  of  the  tiny  sea-shell,  whilst 
the  meat  of  the  escargot  is  entirely  tasteless,  and 
would  not  be  so  esteemed  were  it  not  for  the  piquant 
stuffing  associated  with  it.  For  my  own  part  i  can 
not  avow  that  I  am  an  enthusiastic  admirer  of 
escargots,  however  dressed  and  served.  I  certainly 
eat  them  without  disgust,  but  also  without  any 
particular  satisfaction." 

SNAPDRAGON— A  Christmas  game  for  a  fam- 
ily; raisins  in  a  warm  dish  are  covered  with  brandy 
or  any  spirit  that  is  strong  enough  to  burn;  it  is  set 
on  fire  in  a  darkened  room,  and  the  sport  consists  of 
picking  the  raisins  out  of  the  fire  with  the  fingers. 

SNIPES— Well-known  and  fairly  abundant  small 
game  birds;  there  are  three  or  four  varieties; 
superior  to  the  woodcock.  The  English  and  French 
epicures  say  snipes  must  not  be  drawn,  but  the 
intestine  and  all  eaten;  fastidious  Americans  do  not 
agree  to  this,  and  the  cooks  have  to  make  the  styles 
of  cooking  to  suit.  BROILED  SNIPES — Are  split 
down  the  back,  the  insides  removed,  wiped,  flat- 


SNIPE— BECASSINE. 

tened,  broiled  and  served  on  toast  the  same  as  quails. 
BECASSINES  A  LA  BROCHE— Snipes  roasted  on  a  spit 
or  long  skewer.  They  are  plucked,  the  heads 
skinned,  the  gizzards  taken  out,  intestine  (trail)  left 
in;  the  head  being  bent  over  the  long  bill  is  thrust 
through  the  flesh  of  the  legs,  each  bird  has  a  slice 
of  fat  bacon  on  the  breast;  they  are  run  upon  a  spit 
side  by  side  and  roasted  rare,  served  on  toast  with 
their  own  drippings  and  maitre  d' hotel  butter.  BE- 
CASSINES EN  CROUSTADES— Shallow  cup  shapes  of 
fried  bread,  the  insides  spread  with  liver  forcemeat, 
a  roasted  snipe  in  each  croustade,  baked  a  few  min- 
utes jast  before  serving.  BECASSINES  A  LA  BONNE 
BOUCHE — Snipes  filled  with  a  forcemeat  of  liver 
pounded  with  bacon,  covered  also  with  forcemeat 
and  baked;  served  on  shapes  of  fried  bread,  with 
truffle  sauce.  SNIPE  PUDDING  —  Is  a  thoroughly 
English  dish  almost  unknown  to  French  epicures. 


SOL 

It  is,  nevertheless,  a  delicious  entree.  The  snipes 
are  split  in  halves  and  seasoned;  a  brown  jam  sauce 
is  made  with  fried  onions,  mushrooms,  flour,  wine, 
and  the  trails  of  the  birds,  strained,  poured  over  the 
snipes  in  a  deep  dish  lined  with  short  paste,  a  paste 
lid  put  on,  steamed  two  hours;  served  hot.  BECAS- 
SINES EN  TERRINE  A  L'IRLANDAISE— A  cold  dish. 
Snipes  cut  in  halves  baked  on  layers  of  bacon  with 
butter,  with  a  temporary  flour-and- water  paste  cover 
over,  which  is  removed  when  the  baking  is  com- 
pleted. BOUDIN.DB  BHCASSINES  A  L'EPICURIENNE- 
French  name  of  the  snipe  pudding  above.  (See 
Woodcock.) 

SNOW  CAKE— The  whitest  white  cake  (except 
angel  cake)  made  with  a  large  proportion  of  corn 
starch,  some  flour,  white  of  eggs,  white  butter, 
sugar  and  lemon  juice. 

SNOW  PUDDING-Cold  trifle.  One  of  several 
domestic  names  applied  to  Russian  jelly.  It  is  clear, 
uncolored  gelatine  jelly,  whipped  while  setting  on 
ice  and  whipped  white  of  eggs  added  at  the  same 
time,  making  a  snow-white  spongy  jelly  when 
finally  set.  Served  with  cold  yellow  custard  as 
sauce.  Also  called  lemon  sponge,  lemon  snow, 
floating  island,  etc.  (See  Muscovite.) 

SOAP — SOFT  SOAP— To  one  pound  of  potash,  add 
three  gallons  of  water.  Boil  the  potash  until  it 
is  all  dissolved.  Then  add  three  pounds  of  any  kind 
of  soap-grease  the  cleaner  the  better — to  the  lye, 
and  set  it  to  boiling.  It  usually  becomes  soap  after 
boiling  from  one  to  five  hours.  Then  add  nine  gal- 
lons of  water,  and  stir  well  together.  When  cool  it 
will  be  beautiful  white  soap,  if  the  grease  was 
clean.  HARD  SOAP — Take  one  pound  of  potash, 
dissolve  in  twelve  quarts  water  in  a  kettle  calcu- 
lated to  make  the  soap,  add  to  the  lye  five  pounds  of 
grease  and  boil  slowly,  add  water  to  the  kettle  as  it 
boils  down.  Keep  about  the  same  quantity  in  the 
kettle  until  it  becomes  soap.  Then  add  eight  ounces 
common  salt,  and  boil  ten  minutes,  which  will  sep- 
arate the  water  from  the  soap.  If  rosin  is  wanted, 
melt  that  in  a  separate  kettle.  Add  lye  with  it  un- 
til it  becomes  thick,  which  will  take  about  one  quart 
to  a  pound  of  rosin.  Then  add  the  rosin  to  the  boil- 
ing soap  before  the  salt  is  added.  The  salt  causes 
the  soap  to  separate  from  the  water  and  rise  upon 
the  top.  When  cold  it  can  be  taken  off  or  dipped 
into  moulds  while  hot.  The  above  hard  soap  may 
be  perfumed  just  before  it  is  cool.  When  lye  is  too 
strong  it  will  not  make  soap;  therefore,  if  the  kettle, 
while  boiling,  is  not  kept  about  the  same  quantity, 
the  lye  will  boil  down  too  strong. 

SOCLE — A  pedestal,  stand,  base  for  an  ornamen- 
tal piece  of  cooks'  work.  SUR  SUCLE — On  an  orna- 
mental stand. 

SODA  SYRUPS— See  Syrups. 

SOLE — No  other  fish  is  named  so  frequently  in 
English  and  French  menus  as  the  sole  and,  as  a 
consequence,  it  is  named  with  great  frequency 
in  menus  of  this  side  as  well,  yet  there  are  no  soles 


444 


THE   STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


SOL 

in  American  waters,  and  all  that  are  genuine  are 
the  few  brought  over  in  ice  by  the  steamers.  The 
flounder  and  the  Nova  Scotia  fluke  have  to  do  duty 
for  the  sole  on  this  side  in  a  general  way,  and  other 
fish  are  pressed  in  to  furnish  the  coveted  fillets  when 
those  are  not  available.  A  tourist  in  California 
wrote  back  complaining  that  all  the  fillets  of  soles 
in  San  Francisco  were  cut  from  halibut.  On  the 
other  hand  we  have  some  of  the  choicest  fish  that 
swim  which  are  quite  unknown  in  European  mar- 
kets, and  they  scarcely  find  a  place>  in  our  own  bills 
of  fare  for  the  odd  reason  that  the  majority  of  the 
cooks  were  brought  up  from  childhood  on  sole,  and 
have  not  yet  learned  pompano,  or  Spanish  mackerel, 
or  anything  but  the  flounder  substitute.  The  sole  is 
a  flatfish  of  excellent  quality,  best  adapted  to  be  cut 


CANDY  SULTANE  SUR  SOCLE. 

in  thin  fillets  (boneless  bands  or  strips),  and  coiled, 
and  cooked  in  that  neat  shape.  FILET  DE  SOLE  A  LA 
MARGUERY— "As  Villemessant,  the  founder  of  the 
Figaro,  used  to  say,  one  can  always  tell  if  a  man  is 
^.gourmet  by  listening  to  what  he  orders  in  ea^h 
particular  restaurant,  for  every  restaurant  here  has 
its  special  dish,  on  the  preparation  of  which,  to  a 
certain  degree,  its  reputation  depends.  The  Restau- 
rant da  Gymnast,  or  Cafe  Afarguery,  for  instance, 
is  celebrated  for  its  filet  de  sole  a  la  Marguery,  the 
iish  being  prepared  with  a  delicious  sauce  made  of 
mussels,  shrimps,  and  white  wine.  The  recipe  for 
the  famous  sole  Marguery  appears  to  be  much 
the  same  as  for  first-class  sole  Normande.  Boil  sole 
in  chablis,  take  out  fish  and  remove  bone,  dividing 
meat  into  four  fillets.  Atld  more  wine  to  that  in 


SOR 

which  fish  was  cooked,  and  make  a  ragout  of  shrimp- 
meat  (from  the  tails),  crawfish-meat  (idem.),  mush- 
rooms, truffles,  mussels,  butter,  and  a  good  piece  of 
meat-stock.  When  these  ingredients  are  all  thor- 
oughly cooked,  pour  the  sauce  over  the  fillets  of  sole, 
and  stand  in  the  oven  for  some  minutes.  Garnish 
the  dish  with  fried  white-bait,  and  serve.  The 
above  recipe  was  given  me  by  a  cordon  bleu 
who  lives  in  the  house.  SOLE  A  LA  NOR- 
MANDE —  To  prepare  this  dish  in  perfection, 
it  is  imperatively  necessary  that  the  fish  should 
be  a  big  one,  and  that  the  flesh  should  be 
entirely  separated  from  the  bones.  The  oval  silver 
dish,  moreover,  on  which  this  delicacy  is  usually 
served,  should  be  well  buttered  and  cunningly 
powdered  with  finely  minced  and  scrupulously 
blanched  onions.  Before  being  cooked,  the  sole 
should  be  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  ju- 
diciously moistened  with  white  wine;  and  while  the 
cooking  is  in  process  the  sauce  should  be  a-making 
— a  "maigre  allemande,"  or  white  sauce,  of  which 
the  stock  is  the  water  in  which  mussels  have  been 
boiled.  The  garnishing  comprises  these  same  mus- 
sels, together  with  oysters,  champignons,  fried 
smelts,  and  fried  sippets  of  bread.  Just  for  five 


minutes  before  serving  must  the  sole  be  popped  into 
a  moderately  heated  oven;  but  the  delicate  white  of 
the  allemande  sauce  must  not  be  suffered  to  brown. 
In  nineteen  French  restaurants  out  of  twenty  there 
is  served  with  the  sole  an  ."allemande  grasse"— 
such  a  vulgar  sauce,  indeed,  as  is  poured  over  a 
fricassee  of  fowl  or  a  dish  of  boiled  sheep's  trotters; 
but  a  real  "  Normande "  should  have  essence  of 
fish  and  not  meat,  for  its  fundamental  motive.  FIL- 
LETS OF  SOLES— Make  a  nice  breakfast  dish  served 
with  tomato  sauce.  Dip  each  fillet  in  batter,  see 
that  they  are  well  covered  with  this,  and  fry  in  boil- 
ing fat  until  they  are  nicely  browned.  Serve  in  the 
center  of  a  dish,  and  pour  the  sauce  round.  SOLES 
A  LA  PARISIENNE— Scrape  and  clean  out  your  soles, 
cut  off  the  heads  and  tails,  and  toss  in  a  sautepan 
with  sufficient  fresh  butter  to  cover  them;  sprinkle 
with  chopped  parsley,  chives,  salt  and  pepper;  turn 
the  fish,  and,  when  cooked,  dish  up,  covered  with 
Italian  sauce.  FILLETS  OF  SOLE  A  LA  JOINVILLE— 
Toss  the  fillets  in  a  saucepan  with  butter.  When 
done,  place  round  a  dish,  and  fill  the  center  with 
boiled  shrimps  and  minced  truffles.  Cover  with 
German  sauce,  to  which  you  have  added  a  little 
shrimp  butter. 

SOLE  (Fr.)— Sole;  same  as  in  English. 

SORBET  (Fr.)— Frozen  punch. 


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445 


SOR 

SOIIBETIERE  (Fr.)— A  freezing  box  in  which 
sorbets  and  other  ices  are  congealed. 

SORREL — A  sort  of  sour  spinach;  a  weed  with 
acid  juices,  used  as  greens  in  soups,  in  sauces  in  the 
form  of  a  puree,  and  in  combination  with  spinach. 
Not  the  same  as  the  low-growing,  clover-leaved, 
sour  weed  called  sheep-sorrel  in  the  prairie  states^ 
Sorrel  grows  tall  amongst  the  grass.  "The  sorrel 
again,  whose  crimson  sepals  flaunt  themselves 
amongst  our  meadow  herbage,  is  largely  utilized  in 
the  preparation  of  French  salads.  Sorrel,  prepared 
for  table  exactly  like  spinach,  is  an  excellent  accom- 
paniment to  sweetbread,  fried  calves'  brains,  or  any 
similar  dish.  Sorrel  makes  an  excellent  sauce  for 
veal,  pork,  or  winter  geese.  It  should,  like  spinach, 
be  put  in  a  sauce-pan  without  water,  except  that 
which  hangs  to  its  leaves  in  washing.  It  should  be 
boiled  slowly,  and  then  be  beaten  up  with  cream, 
butter  and  the  yolks  of  eggs." 

SOUFFLE— A  puff;  something  light.  There  are 
souffles  of  almost  anything  eatable.  Whatever  rises 
to  an  unusual  degree  is  a  souffle;  the  usual  means  is 
to  mix  whipped  white  of  eggs  into  a  pasty  prepara- 
tion, whether  of  meats  or  sweets,  just  before  putting 
it  into  the  oven  or  steamer.  (See  Monte  Sana  Pud- 
ding.) 

SOUPS  —  SAID  ABOCT  SOUPS — "  'C'esl  la  soupe,' 
says  one  of  the  best  of  proverbs,  'yui  fait  le  soldo t.' 
('It  is  the  soup  that  makes  the  soldier.')  Excellent 
as  our  troops  are  in  the  field,  there  cannot  be  a  more 
unquestionable  fact,  than  their  immense  inferiority 
to  the  French  in  the  business  of  cookery.  The  En- 
glish soldier  lays  his  piece  of  ration  beef  at  once  on 
the  coals,  by  which  means  the  one  and  the  better 
half  is  lost,  and  the  other  burnt  to  a  cinder.  Whereas 
six  French  troopers  fling  their  messes  into  one  com- 
mon pot,  and  extract  a  delicious  soup  ten  times  more 
nutritious  than  the  simple  rotican  ever  be." — "Du- 
mas, the  elder,  was  excessively  fond  of  onion-and- 
cabbaffe  soup,  which  he  made  himself.  Soup  con- 
tains the  greatest  amount  of  nourishment  that  can 
be  taken  with  the  least  exertion." — "Scotch  broth  is 
to  Scotland  \vhntpot-au-feu  is  to  France,  made  with 
mutton  instead  of  beef,  and  involves  an  important 
question  in  household  economy." — A  writer  of  New 
York  says:  "Nearly  every  hotel  in  this  city  now 
uses  the  individual  soup  tureen,  and  it  is  a  fact  to  be 
recorded  with  pleasure.  The  day  has  happily  gone 
by  when  plates  of  cold  soup  were  handed  round  the 
table."  FOR  BISQUE  SOUPS — See  Bisqut.  FOR 
CLEAR  SOUPS  —  See  Consommes.  FOR  GAKBURE 
SOUPS — See  Garbure.  Various  special  soups  may 
be  found  described  under  the  several  letters,  such 
as  Turtle,  Terrapin,  Conger,  Chowders,  Game 
Sonpf,  etc.,  and  in  national  cookery  articles. 

SOUPS  OF  BARLEY  — SCOTCH  BROTH— See 
Scottish  Cookery.  CREAM  OF  BARLEY  A  LA  JARDI- 
NIERI: — Cream-puree  of  barley  tinted  with  spinach 
green,  with  vegetables  cut  size  of  macaroni  with  a 
cohin.n  cutter;  peas,  cauliflower,  etc.  CREAM  OF 


SOU 

BARLEY  A  LA  JOINVILLE— Cream-puree  tinted  pink 
with  crayfish -butter  or  lobster-coral,  with  pieces' of 
sweetbreads  and  crayfish-tails.  CREAM  OF  BARLEY 
A  LA  VIENNOISE— White  cream  of  barley  with  fried 
croutons.  POTAGE  A  LA  CREME  D'ORGE— Cream  of 
barley. 

SOUPS  OF  BEEF— ALAMODE  BEEF  SOUP— See 
Alamode.  BEEF  SOUP  A  L'ANGLAiSE-Smooth  brown 
soup  of  stock  thickened  with  roux,  lean  beef  cut  in 
squares,  celery,  turnips,  carrots  likewise.  BEEF 
BROTH  WITH  RICE— Beef  stock  highly  seasoned, 
with  rice  cooked  separately  and  added.  Ox  PALATE 
SOUP  A  L'ANGLAISE — Palates  peeled,  boiled,  and 
pressed,  cut  in  squares,  put  in  clear  soup  with  egg- 
quenelles  and  Madeira  wine;  lemon  aside.  Ox  PAL- 
ATE SOUP  THICK— Brown  like  beef-soup;  pressed 
palates  cut  in  dice;  lemon  slices,  sherry,  parsley. 
Ox  CHEEK  SOUP  A  LA  NELSON— Stock  made  of  ox- 
cheeks,  beef,  ham,  vegetables;  thick,  brown,  with 
wine,  and  the  meat  cut  in  squares.  Ox  TAIL  SOUP- 
Is  made  either  clear  or  thick;  tails  in  round  slices 
stewed  2  or  3  hours;  beef  stock;  carrots  and  turnips 
in  slices  like  the  tails;  all  served  in  the  soup;  little 
sherry  and  lemon.  Ox  TAIL  SOUP  A  I.'ARNOLD — 
The  preceding  thick,  brown,  with  barley.  POTAGE 
AUX  QUEUES  DE  BCEUF — Ox-tail  soup. 

SOUPS  OF  CABBAGE  — CABBAGE  SOUP  A  LA 
CHAMBERY — Savoy  cabbage  sliced  and  half-fried; 
boiled  in  salt-pork  stock;  fried  forcemeat -balls  of 
beef  served  in  it.  PUREE  OF  CABBAGE  A  LA  PIE- 
MONTAISE — Cabbage  passed  through  a  seive,  with 
broth  thickened,  cream,  croutons.  CABBAGE  SOUP 
A  LA  LANGUEDOCIENNE— -Raviolis  made  of  fried 
cabbage  and  onion,  in  potato  soup  with  cheese,  yolks, 
etc.  CABBAGE  SOUP  A  LA  RENTIERS — Stock  with 
salt  pork,  cabbage,  sausages,  vegetables,  sippets  of 
bread;  all  served  in  the  soup.  CABBAGE  SOUP  A  LA 
ROUENNAISE — Sliced  cabbage  half-fried,  stewed  in 
stock,  with  sippets  of  bread.  CABBAGE  SOUP  WITH 
PORK- Assorted  vegetables,  potatoes,  cabbage,  pork; 
all  stewed  together  in  stock.  CABBAGE  SOUP  WITH 
RICE — Sliced  and  fried  cabbage  and  onion  in  salt- 
pork  stock  with  rice.  GREEN  CABBAGE  AND  POTATO 
SOUP — Stewed  summer-cabbage  and  potatoes  to- 
gether in  stock. 

SOUPS  OF  CHICKEN— CHICKEN  A  LA  CUIF- 
FONADE — Seasoned  clear  chicken  broth,  pieces  of 
chicken  in  it  previously  half -fried;  shred  lettuce, 
sorrel,  chervil  added.  CHICKEN'  A  LA  KITCIIENEK — 
Broth,  thickened  white  roux;  roast  chickens,  selected 
meat  saved,  skin  and  trimmings  boiled  in  broth. 
CHICKEN  A  LA  KETTNER  —  Roast  chickens 
cut  up,  skin  and  trimmings  in  broth,  thickened 
white  roux,  chicken  meat,  rice,  and  cream.  — 
CHICKEN  A  LA  MALMAISON— White  soup  contain- 
ing two  colors  of  chicken  quenelles,  yellow  and 
green,  with  small  carrots,  cauliflower,  yolks, 
cream.  CHICKEN  A  LA  MESSINOISE — White  puree 
of  chicken  and  almonds  with  quenelles  of  chicken 
and  tomato.  CHICKEN  A  LA  PuixctssE— Cream- 


446 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


SOU 

colored,  thick,  with  stuffed  braised  lettuce  aside. — 
CHICKEN  A  LA  SoNTAG-Pieces  of  chicken  half -fried 
with  ham  in  butter,  along-  with  leeks  and  rice  in 
thickened  broth.  CHICKEN  A  LA  ST.  GEORGE  — 
Cream -colored  with  barley,  chicken  meat  and  fried 
forcemeat  balls.  CHICKEN  A  L'ANGLAisE-Seasoned 
chicken  stock  thickened,  with  pieces  of  chicken. 
CHICKEN  WITH  OKRA  —  Pieces  chicken  half-fried 
with  onions,  stock,  tomatoes,  okra,  rice.  CHICKEN 
WITH  RICE — Pieces  chicken  half  fried,  in  stock  with 
rice,  plain.  CHICKEN  WITH  TOMATO  — Pieces  fried 
with  ham  and  onions,  stock,  tomato  pur€e.  CHICKEN- 
BROTH  A  LA  BRITANNIA — Prmtanier  vegetables  and 
"  royal  "  chicken  custards  in  broth.  CHICKEN  A  LA 
CiiEYAi-iERE — A  garbure  of  cream -soaked  and  fried 
rolls  served  aside  with  broth.  CHICKEN  A  LA  CHOR- 
SEUIL— Chicken  stocks  with  "royal  "  chicken  cus- 
tards and  asparagus  tops.  CHICKEN  A  LA  NICOISE- 
Assorted  vegetables  including  cabbage  cut  in  dice, 
rice  and  chicken  meat  in  broth.  CHICKEN  A  LA  PA- 
LESTINE— With  Jerusalem  artichokes  cut  small  and 
chicken.  CHICKEN  A  LA  VIENNOISE — Consomme 
with  barley,  chicken  meat,  chervil.  CHICKEN  WITH 
POACHED  EGGS — Broth  with  asparagus  tops  and 
poached  egg  in  each  plate.  PUREE  DE  VOLAILLE 
A  LA  BEARNAISE — Puree  of  chicken  and  almonds, 
boiling  cream,  squares  of  chicken  meat,  fried  rings 
of  bread.  PUREE  DE  VOLAILLE  A  LA  JUSSIENNE— 
Puree  of  chicken  and  bread  panada  in  thickened 
broth  with  yolks  and  fried  crusts.  PUREE  DE  VO- 
LAILLE A  LA  MILESIENNE — Tinted  green;  puree  of 
chicken  with  pounded  pistachios.  PUREE  DE  VO- 
LAILLE A  LA  PERiGORD-Puree  of  chicken,  rice  and 
almonds,  with  "royal  "  custards  containing  purde  of 
truffles.  PUREE  DE  VOLAILLE  A  LA  REiNE-Pounded 
chicken  and  rice  in  stock  passed  through  a 'sieve, 
cream,  butter,  croutons.  PUREE  DE  VOLAILLE  A  LA 
ST.  MANDE  —  Cream-colored  with  chicken  puree, 
pieces  of  cooked  cucumbers,  rice,  chervil.  PUREE 
DE  VOLAILLE  A  LA  CREME — White  cream  pur£e 
with  white  meat  of  chicken. 

SOUPS,  GIBLET— They  are  either  clear  or  thick. 
The  fleshy  part  of  the  gizzards  of  fowls  cut  from  the 
gristle;  the  giblets  are  fried  first,  then  stewed,  and 
soups  varied  like  beef  and  ox-tail  soups.  POTAGE 
AUX  ABATIS  D'OiE — Giblet  soup,  goose. 

SOUPS  FARINACEOUS— TAPIOCA  SOUP  A  LA 
MONTGLAS — Thin  tomato  soup  with  tapioca,  maca- 
roni cut  short,  breast  of  chicken  and  red  tongue  in 
shreds.  TAPIOCA  AU  CONSOMME— Clear  soup  with 
tapioca.  TAPIOCA  AND  TOMATO— Thin  tomato  soup 
with  tapioca.  TAPIOCA  WITH  RICE  —  Clear  soup 
with  tapioca  and  rice.  SAGO  SOUPS  —  Same  varia- 
tions as  tapioca.  POTAGE  AU  SAGOU — Sago  soup. 
POTAC»E  A  LA  JENNY  LIND — Sago  cream  soup,  yel- 
low with  thickening  of  yolks.  POTAGE  A  LA  RE- 
CAMIER — Wash  %  Ib.  best  pearl  sago  thoroughly, 
then  stew  it  quite  tender  and  very  thick  in  water  or 
broth  (it  will  require  nearly  a  quart  of  liquid,  which 
should  be  poured  on  to  it  cold  and  very  gradually 
heated),  then  mix  with  a  pint  of  boiling  cream  or 


SOU 

milk,  and  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  mingle  the 
whole  carefully  with  two  quarts  of  stiong  veal  or 
beef  stock,  which  should  be  kept  always  boiling. 
Serve  immediately.  CREAM  OK  SEMOLINA  —  Fa- 
rina cream  soup  finished  with  yolks,  cream,  butter, 
and  light  croutons.  POTAGE  SEMOLINA  A  LA  PIE- 
MONTAISE— Game  broth  with  farina  and  quenelles 
of  farina,  butter  and  cheese.  POTAGE  SEMOLINA  A 
LA  VENITIENNE — Farina  cream  soup  light  yellow 
with  yolks,  wine,  lemon  juice,  Parmesan  cheese  and 
fillets  of  partridges.  POTAGE  BARAQUINE — White 
tapioca  soup  with  strips  of  chicken  and  truffles. 
POTAGE  A  LA  GOUFFE — Brown  tapioca  soup  with 
squares  of  chicken  breast,  tongue  and  truffles.  PO- 
TAGE A  LA  CREME  DE  TAPIOCA  —  Tapioca  cream 
soup. 

SOUPS  OF  FISH— FISH  SOUP  A  LA  BRABAN- 
CONNE — Strong  fish  stock  with  Rhine  wine  and  to- 
mato pur^e  added ;  "royal"  custards  and  collops  of 
fish.  FISH  SOUP  A  LA  BATELIERE — Thickened  fish 
stock  with  sherry,  oysters,  scallops,  lobster  meat, 
fish  quenelles,  fried  crusts.  FISH  SOUP  A  LA  Du- 
CLAIR — Clarified  fish  broth  with  white  fillets  of  fish 
and  sippets  of  dried  bread.  FISH  SOUP  A  LA  RUSSE 
— Clarified  fish  broth,  shredded  vegetables,  fillets  of 
fish,  fried  crusts.  POTAGE  A  LA  BAGRATioN-Thick- 
ened  broth  of  vegetables  and  fish,  yolks,  cream, 
lemon  juice,  fish  quenelles,  oysters,  lobster  meat, 
duchesse  crusts.  POTAGE  A  LA  CHANOINESSE— 
Pink-colored,  with  crayfish  butter,  soft  roes  of  fish, 
mushrooms,  oysters,  crayfish  tails.  STURGEON 
SOUP  A  LA  SUEDOISE — Strong  fish  stock  with  white 
wine,  brown  roux,  stewed  slices  of  sturgeon  and 
mussels.  PIKE  SOUP  A  LA  CHAMPI.AIN — Fish  made 
into  forcemeat  balls,  fried.  Fish  stock  cream-col- 
ored, with  Catawba,  mussel  liquor,  the  forcemeat 
balls,  fried  bread.  PICKEREL  SOUP  A  LA  MALMES- 
BURY — Fillets  in  small  squares  cooked  in  butter  and 
wine.  Stock  thickened,  cream -colored,  with  mus- 
sels, lobster  meat  and  the  fillets.  FLOUNDER  SOUP 
—Thickened  fish  stock  with  roux,  Catawba,  scol- 
lops, oysters,  and  fillets  of  flounder  cut  to  size  of 
ovsters ;  croutons.  EEL  SOUP  AMERICAN  STYLE — 
Pieces  of  eels  half  fried  in  butter,  flour,  fish  stock, 
tomatoes,  Catawba,  croutons.  EEL  SOUP  A  LA 
HARTFORD— Cream -colored  fricassee  of  eels  with 
scollops  and  croutons.  EEL  SOUP  A  LA  ST.  LAW- 
RENCE— Pieces  of  eels  simmered  in  butter  and  wine. 
Fish  stock  with  lobster,  fried  vegetables  and  aro- 
matics,  thickened,  creamy.  Parsley,  lobster  meat, 
eels  added.  POTAGE  A  L'ANGUILLE  —  Eel  soup. 
POTAGE  A  LA  PROVENCALS  — -  Bouillabaisse.  PO- 
TAGE A  LA  POISSONIERE— White  soup  with  pieces  of 
salmon  and  sole,  oysters  and  mussels.  POTAGE  AUX 
FILETS  DE  SOLES  —  Fish  broth  thickened,  wine, 
yolks,  and  fillets  of  soles.  POTAGE  AUX  HUITRES— 
Oyster  soup.  POTAGE  DE  HOMARD — Lobster  soup. 
POTAGE  A  LA  BISQUE  D'ECRIVISSES  —  Bisque  of 
crayfish. 

SOUPS  OF  GAME  —  See  also  Bisques,  Hare, 
Game,  Partridge.  GAME  SOUP  A  LA  CORCOISE — 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


447 


SOU 

A  soup  of  partridges,  rabbit,  salt  pork,  ham,  smoked 
sausages,  soup  beef,  dried  mushrooms,  lentils,  and 
vegetables.  The  meats  sliced  and  ssrved  in  the 
strained  soup.  BISQUE  OF  GROUSE  —  Game  broth 
with  several  kinds  of  meat,  etc.,  thickened  with 
bread  panada,  wine,  fillets  of  grouse  in  fine  shreds 
"The  grouse  soup  at  Hamilton  Palace  used  to  be 
made  on  the  principle  of  a  young  grouse  to  each  of 
the  party,  in  addition  to  six  or  seven  brace  stewed 
down  for  stock."  PUREE  OF  DUCK  A  LA  NORFOLK 
—  Mallards  roasted,  then  stewed,  meat  pounded 
through  a  sieve;  game  broth,  panada  to  thicken, 
port  wine,  croutons.  DUCK  SOUP  A  LA  HONGKOISE 
Game  soup  containing  puree  of  vegetables  and 
ham,  with  barley  and  the  ducks  in  pieces.  RABBIT 
SOUP  A  LA  POLONAISE — Light  color.  Rabbit  stock 
with  ham  and  vegetables  thickened  with  roux  and 
yolks;  wine,  fillets  of  rabbits;  rice  aside.  HARE 
SOUP — See  Hare.  PUREE  DE  GIBIER  —  Puree  of 
game.  PUREE  DE  LAPEREAUX— Puree  of  rabbit. 
PUREE  DE  GROUSES  —  Puree  of  grouse.  POTAGE 
AUX  GROUSES — Grouse  soup.  POTAGE  AUX  FAI- 
SANS— Pheasant  soup.  POTAGE  AUX  PERDREAUX — 
Partridge  soup.  POTAGE  A  LA  LIEVRE — Hare  soup. 
POTAGE  A  LA  VENAISON — Venison  soup.  POTAGE 
A  LA  CHASSEUR— Game  soup  with  pieces  of  the 
game,  onions,  potatoes  and  mushrooms.  PIGEON 
SOUP  A  LA  FABERT — Pigeons  cut  up  and  fried  with 
ham  and  butter;  flour,  broth,  sherry,  julienne,  vege- 
tables and  the  pigeon  pieces  served  in  it.  PIGEON 
SOUP  BELGIEN  STYLE — The  preceding  with  carrots 
and  green  peas. 

SOUPS  OF  ITALIAN  PASTES  —  MACARONI 
Soup-Boiled  macaroni  cut  short  in  beef  broth.  MA- 
CARONI A  LA  CALABRAISE  —A  dish  of  macaroni  and 
cheese,  brown  tomato  sauce,  garlic,  butter,  etc., 
served  aside  with  beef  broth.  MACARONI  A  LA 
CANINO — Dish  of  macaroni  and  cheese,  puree  of 
fowl  and  gravy  in  alternate  layers  served  aside  with 
broth.  MACARONI  A  LA  TOSCANE — Dish  of  maca- 
roni and  cheese,  tomatoes,  sliced  mushrooms  and 
fried  egg  plant,  and  gravy  in  alternate  layers  served 
aside  with  broth.  MACARONI  A  LA  VILLAGEOISE — 
Broth  with  inch  lengths  of  macaroni  and  fried  leeks. 
MACARONI  AND  TOMATO  —  Inch  lengths  in  tomato 
.soup,  cheese  aside.  VERMICELLI  A  LA  GRECQUE— 
Thickenad,  cream-colored  with  yolks,  cream,  lemon 
juice,  vermicelli.  VERMICELLI  A  LA  NAVARRAISE 
Brown,  thickened  with  tomato  puree  and  vermicelli. 
VERMICELLI  A  LA  PLUCHE— Clear,  with  shreds  of 
green  along  with  the  vermicelli.  VERMICELLI  A 
LA  WINDSOR — Slightly  thickened  consomme  with 
chicken  quenelles  and  vermicelli.  VERMICELLE  AU 
MAIGRE — Without  meat;  vermicelli  in  salted  water, 
butter,  yolks,  cream.  VERMICELLE  A  L'OSEILLE — 
Chicken  broth,  thickened,  yolks,  cream,  stewed  sor- 
rel and  vermicelli.  VERMICELLE  AuToMATE-Con- 
bomme  mingled  with  tomato  puree  and  vermicelli; 
grated  Parmesan  aside.  VERMICELLI  PLAix-Short 
cui  in  beef  broth.  LASAGNES  SOUP — Lasagnes  paste 
bo:J«d,  c-j'shor1  in  brc-'h,  conso.i"n6,  or  in  any  soup, 


SOU 

same  as  macaroni.  NOUILLES — In  any  way  same  as 
macaroni,  vermicelli  and  fidelini.  FIDELINI  A  LA 
ROVALE — Thickened  stock  with  yolks,  cream,  fide- 
lini cut  short;  grated  Parmesan  aside.  POTAGE 
SPAGHETTI  A  LA  SICILIENNE — A  dish  of  spaghetti 
in  brown  tomato  sauce  with  garlic,  dried  mush- 
rooms, etc.,  and  hot  butter  served  with  beef  broth 
aside.  SPAGHETTI  A  LA  TURINOISE  —  Consomme 
mingled  with  tomato  puree  and  short-cut  spaghetti 
and  quenelles;  cheese  aside.  SPAGHETTI  AU  PAR- 
MESAN— Spaghetti  in  clear  stock;  cheese  aside. 

SOUPS  OF  LAMB  AND  MUTTON  —  LAMB 
SOUP  A  LA  PIEMONTAISE — Pieces  of  lamb  in  squares 
half  fried,  flour,  stock,  vegetables,  rice.  LAMB  SOUP 
A  LA  WINCHESTER- White  soup  with  cream,  starch, 
wine,  leeks  and  meat  cut  small.  LAMB  SOUP  A  LA 
REINE — Cut  up  roast  lamb,  vegetables  and  rice  in 
broth.  LAMB  BROTH  WITH  BARLEY — Barley,  meat 
in  dice  and  vegetables.  MUTTON  SOUP  A,  LA  COWLEY 
— Brown  mutton  broth  with  barley  and  boiled  mut- 
ton chop  in  each  plate.  MUTTON  SOUP  WITH  BAR- 
LEY— Strong  mutton  broth  with  barley  and  meat  in 
squares;  green  herbs.  MUTTON  SOUP  A  LA  ROUEN - 
NAISE — Puree  of  barley  with  cream,  and  mutton  cut 
in  squares.  MUTTON  SOUP  A  LA  ViENNOiSE-Force- 
meat  balls  of  mutton  and  parsley  fried,  in  barley 
broth.  POTAGE  AU  MUTTON — Mutton  broth  served 
with  the  mutton  in  it.  POTAGE  A  L'ECOSSAISE  — 
Scotch  mutton  broth.  BARLEY  BROTH  A  LA  FRAN- 
CAISE — Plain  mutton  broth  with  barley  and  sippets 
of  bread.  SHEEP'S  TAIL  SOUP  A  L'ARMENIENNE — . 
Tails  cut  in  lengths,  parboiled,  fried  with  vegeta- 
bles, curry,  flour,  stock.  Pieces  in  the  soup,  rice 
aside.  POTAGE  AUX  QUEUES  D'AGNEAU — Lamb's 
tail  soup. 

SOUPS  OF  ONIONS— ONION  SOUP  A  LA  PLES- 

SY— Onions  half  fried,  in  slightly  thickened  chicken 
stock,  with  sippets  of  bread.  ONION  SOUP  WITH 
CHEESE — Onion  soup  thick  poured  on  bread  spread 
with  cheese.  ONION  SOUP  WITH  EGGS — Onion  soup 
yellow  with  yolks  and  milk.  SOUP  OF  SMALL 
ONIONS  A  LA  CHEVREUSE — Very  small  onions  and 
peas  in  chicken  broth.  PUREE  OF  ONIONS  A  LA 
BRETONNE — Brown  soup  with  puree  of  onions  and 
fried  crusts.  PUREE  OF  ONIONS  A  LA  DIEPPOISE — 
A  fish  and  onion  soup,  white,  with  fish  quenelles. 
PUREE  OF  ONIONS  A  LA  NANTAISE  —  Brown  veal 
stock  with  puree  of  fried  onions;  croutons.  PUREE 
OF  ONIONS  A  LA  NASSAU- White  cream  of  Bermuda 
onions;  butter,  sugar,  thickened  broth,  cream,  crou- 
tons, 

SOUPS  OF  PEAS  AND  BEANS— GREEN  PEA 
SOUP  A  LA  DUCHESSE — Dry  green  peas  boiled  with 
ham  and  herbs,  rubbed  through  a  seive;  the  liquor 
added,  and  croutons.  GREEN  PEA  SOUP  A  LA  MARLY 
— Green  peas  in  chicken  broth,  with  shreds  of  let- 
tuce and  chervil.  GREEN  PEA  A  LA  PRINT ANIERE- 
Puree  of  peas  with  asparagus  tops,  string  beans  cut 
small,  green  herbs,  sugar,  butter,  etc.  GREEN  PEA 
A  LA  ST.  CLOUD — Green  peas  boiled  with  salt  pork 


448 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


SOU 

and  herbs  in  veal  stock,  skimmed;  fried  crusts. 
GREEN  PEA  A  LA  ST.  GERMAIN-  Green  purge  of  peas 
with  "royal"  custards  composed  of  purge  and  eggs 
cooked  in  small  moulds.  GREEN  PEA  SOUP  WITH 
RICE— Purge  soup  with  boiled  rice.  PEA  SOUP  A  LA 
NAPIER— Peas  boiled  with  salt  pork,  passed  through 
a  seive,  the  pork  cut  in  dice  and  fried,  served  in  the 
soup  with  cut  mint  PEA  SOUP  A  LA  VILLAGEOISE- 
Peas  and  shred  vegetables  in  beef  stock,  with  sip- 
pets of  bread.  PEA  AND  BRUNOISE  Soup-Brunoise 
with  purge  of  peas  and  sippets  of  bread.  PEA  AND 
JULIENNE  SOUP — Purge  of  peas  with  julienne  vege- 
tables. SPLIT-PEA  SOUP  —  Split-peas  boiled  with 
salt  pork,  passed  through  a  seive,  in  stock  slightly 
thickened;  fried  croutons.  PUREE  OF  LENTILS  — 
Lentils  boiled  with  salt  pork,  and  same  as  peas  and 
beans.  PUREE  OF  STRING-BEANS  —  Green  soup; 
beans  cooked  in  salted  water,  passed  through  seive, 
in  stock  thickened  with  roux,  sugar,  butter,  boiling 
cream,  colo'ring,  croutons.  PUREE  OF  STRING  - 
BEANS  A  LA  SAVART — Whole  peas  and  short-cut 
string-beans  added  to  the  preceding.  BEAN  SOUP — 
White  navy  beans  boiled,  passed  through  seive,  in 
slightly  thickened  stock  of  salt  pork,  etc. ;  milk  or 
cream;  croutons.  PUREE  OF  LIMA  BEANS — Beans 
and  various  vegetables  boiled  and  purge  together; 
white  stock;  croutons.  PUREE  OF  FRESH  BEANS — 
Green  shelled  beans  boiled  with  salt  pork  and  on- 
ions, beans  and  onions  through  a  seive,  together,  in 
thickened  broth;  croutons. 

SOUPS  OF  POTATOES— PUREE  OF  POTATOES 
A  LA  FAUBONNE-Potatoes  cooked  with  ham,  pounded 
through  a  seive  in  beef  stock  with  yolks,  butter,  and 
julienne  vegetables.  PUREE  A  LA  JACKSON — Purge 
with  boiling  cream,  little  sugar,  butter,  croutons. 
PUREE  A  LA  PARMENTIER — Cream  of  potatoes  with 
cnervil  and  sorrel.  "The  potage  Parmentier  is  pre- 
pared as  follows:  Peel  a  dozen  potatoes,  slice  and 
put  them  in  cold  water.  Slice  two  onions,  a  head  of 
celery,  and  the  white  part  of  two  leeks.  Put  these 
ingredients  in  a  stewpan  with  four  ounces  of  butter 
and  the  sliced  potatoes.  Fry  the  whole  for  ten  min- 
utes, and  then  moisten  with  two  quarts  of  white 
broth.  Add  three  cloves,  some  salt,  a  bunch  of  pars- 
ley, and  let  simmer  until  the  vegetables  are  done; 
then  rub  through  a  fine  seive  or  tammy.  Return  the 
purge  into  a  stewpan;  set  it  on  the  fire  to  boil  slowly, 
adding  a  little  broth  if  the  soup  is  found  too  thick. 
Let  it  simmer  for  twenty  minutes,  taking  off  the 
scum  as  it  rises.  When  ready  to  serve,  add  a  liaison 
of  four  yolks  of  eggs,  diluted  with  half  a  pint  of 
cream,  and  four  ounces  of  butter,  divided  into  small 
pieces.  Throw  in  the  soup  a  little  finely-chopped  and 
blanched  chervil,  and  send  to  table  separately  some 
small  fried  croutons."  PUREE  OF  POTATOES  A  LA 
TURENNE— Potatoes  baked  and  mashed,  milk,  broth, 
fried  salt-pork  squares  and  fried  sorrel.  "GooD 
WOMAN'S  SOUP"— Now  a  first-class  recipe  for  that 
eminently  French  soup,  a  la  bonne  femme  :  Puree 
Pomme  a  la  Bonne  Femme — Peel  two  quarts  of  po- 
tatoes, mince,  and  boil  in  a  sufficiency  of  good 


SOU 

bouillon;  pass  the  purge  through  a  tammy,  and  pour 
it  into  a  saucepan,  where  allow  it  to  boil;  add  some 
blanched  lettuces  and  a  handful  of  minced  sorrel,  al- 
lowing the  boiling  to  continue  until  the  lettuces  are 
cooked.  Prepare  a  garnish  of  vegetables— aspar- 
agus-tops, cauliflowers,  green  peas,  a  handful  of 
Brussels  sprouts  cooked  in  salt  and  water,  strained 
after  cooking,  and  mixed  with  butter.  At  moment 
of  serving  add  the  vegetables  to  the  purge,  and  bind 
with  five  yolks  mixed  with  a  pint  of  sweet  cream 
and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg.  Do  not  allow  the  soup  to 
boil  after  adding  the  cream."  POTATO  SOUP  W{TH 
LEEKS— Fried  leeks  in  shreds  stewed  with  cut  pota- 
toes in  stock;  sippets  of  bread. 

SOUPS  OF  RICE  — Riz  A  LA  FLAMANDE  — 
Thickened  stock  with  rice  and  assorted  vegetables, 
including  Brussels  sprouts  or  cabbage  cut  small. 
Riz  A  L'INDIENNE  —  Curry  soup  with  rice  and 
pieces  of  chicken.  Riz  A  LA  MAINTEXON— Cream - 
colored  with  yolks  and  cream,  and  sliced  breast  of 
chicken.  Riz  A  LA  PAYSANNE  —  Vegetable  soup 
with  rice.  Riz  A  LA  SULTANE— Stock  of  mutton, 
chicken,  ham  and  vegetables  strained;  colored  with 
saffron,  yolks,  cream;  chicken  meat  and  sultana 
raisins.  Riz  A  LA  TURQUE — Little  timbales  of  but 
tered  rice,  yellow  with  saffron,  served  aside  with 
beef  broth.  Riz  AUX  POINTES — Clear  soup  with 
rice  and  asparagus  tops.  Riz  AU  KARI — Yellow, 
slightly  thickened,  curry  and  roux,  cooked  rice 
added.  Riz  AU  JULIENNE — Julienne  soup  with 
rice.  Riz  AU  TAPIOCA — Cooked  rice  added  to  tapi- 
oca clear  soup.  Riz  AU  TOMATE— Consommg,  to- 
mato purge  and  rice  mixed.  RISOTTO  A  LA  PIE- 
MONTAISE  —  See  Italian.  CREAM  OF  RICE  A  LA 
BUFFON — Puree  of  rice  with  cream,  chicken  broth, 
etc.,  and  small  quenelles  and  asparagus  tops. 
CREAM  OF  RICE  A  LA  CAVOUR — Cream  purge  with 
short  macaroni  and  "royal"  custards  made  with 
almond  milk.  CREAM  OF  RICE  A  LA  MEDICIS  — 
Very  small  fried  rice  croquettes  and  grated  Parme- 
san in  cream  of  rice.  CREAM  OF  RICE  A  LA  PRIX- 
CESSE — Cream  purge  with  asparagus  tops.  CREAM 
OF  RICE  A  LA  ST.  SEVER  —  With  lozenge  shapes 
of  bread  fried  in  butter.  RICE  PILAF — See  Oriental 
Cookery. 

SOUPS  OF  SHELL-FISH—SOFT  CLAM  SOUP 
— Clams  opened  and  hard  part  removed,  boiled  two 
minutes  in  broth,  add  boiling  milk  and  white  sauce 
or  thickening,  butter,  mace,  salt,  pepper,  crackers. 
CLAM  SOUP,  AMERICAN  STYLE  —  Same  as  oyster 
soups;  in  milk  with  butter  and  white  sauce  or  thick- 
ening, parsley,  crackers.  CLAM  CHOWDER — See 
Chotvder.  OYSTER  SOUP,  WHITE  —  Milk,  white 
sauce  or  thickening,  oyster  liquor,  oysters  soft 
cooked,  butter,  crackers,  seasonings.  "Put4doz. 
ovsters  with  their  liquor  into  a  stewpan,  and  when 
upon  the  point  of  boiling  drain  them  upon  a  seive, 
catching  the  liquor  in  a  basin.  Put  the  oysters  into 
a  soup  tureen,  taking  off  the  beards  to  throw  into 
the  liquor,  and  then  melt  %  Ib.  butter  in  another 
stewpan  on  the  fire,  to  which  add  4  oz.  Hour;  stir 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


449 


SOU 

slowly,  keeping  it  quite  white,  over  a  slow  fire;  let 
it  become  cool,  then  add  the  liquor  with  the  beards, 
2  qts.  stock  and  i  qt.  milk.  Season  with  salt,  ca- 
yenne, 5  peppercorns,  half  a  blade  of  mace,  i  des- 
sertspoonful of  anchovy  and  i  tablespoonful  of  Har- 
vey sauce,  stirring  till  boiling.  Boil  quickly  at  the 
last,  then  skim  well,  add  i  gill  of  cream,  strain 
through  a  sieve  over  the  oysters,  and  serve."  Ovs- 
STERS  AUX  FINES  HERBES — Fish  broth  and  oyster 
liquor  thickened,  half-fried  shallots,  mushrooms, 
parsley  and  oysters  in  it,  and  white  wine;  no  milk. 
OYSTER  SOUP  WITH  OKRA— Fried  onions  and  ham, 
in  butter,  tomatoes,  oyster  liquor,  green  pepper, 
okra  in  thin  slices,  oysters  added  last;  an  oyster 
gumbo.  CRAYFISH  Soups-See  Bisques.  MUSSEL 
SOUP— See  Mussels.  LOBSTER  SOUP  A  L'INDIENNE 
— A  lobster  curry  soup;  salt  pork,  ham  and  vege 
tables  fried;  curry,  flour  and  stock  added;  lobsters 
boiied  and  pounded  (shells  and  all)  with  yolks  and 
cream,  and  strained  through  a  seive;  lobster  meat 
and  rice  in  the  soup.  LOBSTER  SOUP  A  LA  MARI- 
NIERE — Pink-colored;  fish  broth  thickened,  contain- 
ing lobster  butter,  lobster  meat,  clams,  small  onions, 
sherry.  PUREE  OF  LOBSTER  WITH  RICE  —  See 
Bisques. 

SOUPS  OF  TURNIPS— TURNIP  PUREE  SOUP— 
Use  young  white  garden  turnips.  Peel,  boil  two 
minutes,  then  pour  off  the  water;  slice  the  turnips 
and  allow  i  Ib.  of  the  vegetables  to  a  pint  of  sepa- 
rated milk;  12  whole  white  peppercorns,  one  blade 
of  mace.  Stew  till  the  turnips  are  tender,  then  puree 
through  a  steel  wire  sieve;  add  also  a  couple  of  bot- 
tled or  canned  button  mushrooms,  %  oz-  of  powdered 
sugar,  and  salt  to  taste.  Put  the  purge  into  a  large 
ste  wpan,  add  good  white  stock  to  make  it  of  a  proper 
consistence;  stir  over  the  fire  till  it  is  quite  thick 
and  hot,  beat  in  %  oz.  of  butter  to  the  pint  of  soup, 
or  add  cream  to  give  it  a  soft,  mellow  taste;  pour 
into  a  hot  tureen,  and  serve.  PUREE  OF  TURNIPS 
AND  RICE — The  two  pounded  and  strained  together 
in  veal  stock  and  milk,  butter,  croutons.  PUREE  OK 
TURNIPS  A  LA  SAVOISIENNE  —  Turnips  fried  first, 
flour,  stock,  tomatoes;  through  a  sieve;  served  with 
grisini  bread.  PUREE  OF  TURNIPS  WITH  SAGO, 
rice  or  tapioca  can  be  varied  at  will.  PUREE  OF 
TURNIPS  A  LA  FRENEUSE — A  cream  of  turnips  with 
bulls  of  turnips  scooped  out,  and  sippets  of  bread. 
CREAM  OF  TURNIPS  A  LA  CONDE — Is  a  puree  of 
beans  with  turnip  puree  made  into  "royal  "  custards 
cut  in  squares  in  it  instead  of  croutons. 

SOUPS  OF  VEAL— VEAL  SOUP  A  L'INDIENNE- 
A  veal  curry  or  mulligatawny,  pieces  of  meat  in  the 
soup,  and  rice.  VEAL  SOUP  A  LA  POISSY  —  White, 
creamy  thickened  veal  stock  with  vermicelli.  VEAL 
SOUP  WITH  BARLEY — Plain  veal  broth  with  barley. 
VEAL  AND  RICE  A  L'ANGLAISE  —  Veal  broth  with 
gelatinous  parts  of  veal  sliced  in  it  and  rice.  VEAL 
AND  TOMATO  WITH  RICE — Fried  pieces  of  veal 
and  onion  in  butter,  stock,  tomatoes,  etc.,  and  rice. 
VEAL  SOUP  A  LA  DAUPHIN E — "  Royal  "  custards 
cut  round  in  veal  broth  with  asparagus  tops  and 


SOU 

tarragon  leaves  sliced.  VEAL  BROTH  WITH  CELERY 
— Cooked  white  celery  in  inch  lengths  in  the  broth. 
VEAL  SOUP  WITH  SORREL — Cream  broth  with  pu- 
rge of  sorrel  and  sippets  of  bread. 

SOUPS  OF  CALF'S  HEAD  —  CALF'S  HEAD 
SOUP  A  LA  DUCHESSE— White  soup  with  calfs"  head 
cut  in  squares,  pieces  of  macaroni  and  small  que- 
nelles. CALF'S  HEAD  SOUP  A  LA  BRIGHTON — Veal 
broth  with  vegetables  and  aromatics,  thickened, 
sherry,  head  cut  in  squares,  small  balls  of  veal  sau- 
sage meat,  lemon  slices.  MOCK  TURTLE  A  LA 
FRANCAISE — The  pressed  calf's  head  cut  in  dice, 
espagnole,  tomato  sauce  and  beef  broth  mingled, 
sherry,  chopped  yolks,  parsley,  lemon.  MOCK  TUR- 
TLE A  L'ANGLAISE — It  is  made  either  clear  or  thick, 
the  stock  as  for  espagnole  without  tomatoes,  calf's 
head  cut  in  squares,  sherry,  port,  egg  quenelles, 
lemon.  CALF'S  FOOT  SOUP  A  L'ANGLAISE  —  Feet 
boned,  pressed,  cut  in  dice  when  cold.  Soup  made 
of  the  stock  of  the  feet  and  other  meats  and  vege- 
tables the  same  as  with  calf's  head;  meat  squares  in 
the  soup,  chopped  yolks  and  lemon  slices.  CALF'S 
FOOT  A  LA  DUMAS — Aromatic  calf's  foot  and  veal 
stock  with  marsala,  thickened,  feet  cut  in  dice,  le- 
mon slices  aside.  CALF'S  TAIL  SOUP — Light  color, 
thickened,  Rhine  wine,  pieces  of  tail  and  parsley. 
POTAGE  TETE  DE  VEAU  —  Calf's  head  soup.  Po- 

TAGE  A  LA  FAUSSE  TORTUE-Mock  turtle  SOUp.     Po- 

TAGE  QUEUES  DE  VEAU— Calf's  tail  soup.  POTAGE 
AUX  PIEDS  DE  VEAU— Calf's  foot  soup.  POTAGE  A 
LA  COMTESSE — Sweetbreads. 

SOUPS  OF  MIXED  VEGETABLES— VEGE- 
TABLE SOUP  A  LA  BOURGEOISE — Stock  with  salt  pork 
and  cabbage  and  various  vegetables,  all  sliced  and 
served  in  the  soup  with  sliced  bread.  VEGETABLE 
SOUP  A  LA  HOLLANDAISE — Balls  scooped  outof  sev- 
eral colors  of  vegetables  and  peas,  beans,  cauli- 
flower; cream  soup  with  the  cooked  vegetables  added. 
VEGETABLE  A  LA  POLONAISE — Polish  soup  of  stock, 
bacon,  fowl,  smoked  sausage,  cabbage,  onions ;  thick- 
ened ;  all  sliced  in  it  to  serve.  POLISH  SOUPS  —  "  In 
the  first  place  there  is  Bigos,  dear  to  the  compatriots 
of  Dombrowski  as  that  general's  name  itself,  a 
kind  of  stew  prepared  with  pork  sausages,  sauer- 
kraut, ham  and  bacon,  wrapped  tightly  in  a  napkin 
and  boiled  for  2  hours.  Their  favorite  soup  is  called 
Barszoz,  which  I  have  often  eaten  at  Boncrelle's 
establishment  in  the  Avenue  de  Cracovie,  at  War- 
saw, and  which  I  can  conscientiously  recommend. 
It  is  made  out  of  beef -bouillon,  in  which  slices  of 
red  beetroot  are  boiled.  Kapusniak,  another  national 
soup,  is  very  nasty,  but  very  much  liked;  it  is  made 
of  sauerkraut  and  bacon  boiled  in  beef-soup.  Ucha 
is  a  Russian  soup,  but,  nevertheless,  much  appreci- 
ated in  the  oppressed  country.  A  fish-soup  it  is,  pre- 
pared from  sterlets."  VEGETABLE  A  LAFERMIERE- 
Various  vegetables  sliced,  fried,  then  boiled  in  stock; 
sorrel,  chervil,  bread.  CONSOMME  JULIENNE  -Veg- 
etables shredded  very  fine,  half-fried  in  butter  and 
sugar;  clear  consomme1  added.  SOUPE  JULIENNE  A 
.  LA  MONTPENSIER— Julienne  with  "royal"  custards. 


450 


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SOU 

SOUPE  JULIENNE  A  LA  RUSSE — Made  with  shreds  of 
beets,  kohlrabi,  knot-celery,  mushrooms,  red  tongue, 
ham.  JULIENNE  AUX  CEuFS  POCHE— A  soft  poached 
egg  in  each  plate  of  soup.  POTAGE  BENOY— Differs 
from  julienne  in  so  far  that  in  the  former  the  vege- 
tables are  cut  into  dice  and  fried  before  putting  into 
the  soup.  CONSOMME  BRUNOISE-A!!  sorts  of  vege- 
tables cut  into  small  squares,  half-fried  with  sugar 
and  butter,  in  clear  stock  with  green  peas  and  shreds 
of  green  herbs.  BRUNOISE  WITH  ITALIAN  PASTES  — 
Rice,  croutons,  tapioca,  etc.,  can  be  varied  at  will. 
POTAGE  DIEPPOISE — A  vegetable  soup  like  julienne 
with  potatoes  added,  and  croutons.  POTAGE  FAU- 
BONNE — Puree  of  peas  with  small  white  onions,  sor- 
rel, and  chervil  added.  POTAGE  XIVERNAISE— A 
vegetable-soup;  the  vegetables  scooped  like  large 
peas,  with  small  Brussels  sprouts  and  chicken 
quenelles.  POTAGE  SOLFERINO — A  vegetable  broth 
with  green  peas,  new  potatoes,  string  beans,  shred 
green  herbs  and  pieces  grisini  bread.  BARSCH  A  LA 
POLONAISE — See  Barzez.  Red -beet  liquor  clear, 
containing  small-cut  pieces  of  beef,  duck,  sausage, 
beets.  FLEMISH  SOUP  —  Like  Brunoise,  with  all 
sorts  of  vegetables  cut  in  shapes,  and  Brussels 
sprouts  and  sippets  additional.  POTAGE  LIVONIEN- 
Puree  of  all  sorts  of  vegetables  and  rice,  with  cream 
and  croutons.  POTAGE  A  LA  CROISSY — Puree  of 
white  beans  and  vegetables  together;  whole  green 
peas  added.  CONSOMME  PRINTANIERE — Clear  soup 
with  small-cut  spring  vegetables,  string  beans,  peas, 
asparagus  points.  PRINTANIERE  ROVALE  —  The 
same  with  "royal"  custards  added.  PRINTANIERE 
A  LA  PARISIENNE— With  custards  of  chicken-puree 
and  eggs.  PRINTANIERE  A  LA  VICTORIA  —  With 
chicken-quenelles  reddened  with  lobster-coral.— 
PRINTANIERE  AU  VERT-PRE — Meadow-green  prin- 
taniere  with  puree  of  spinach  and  green  coloring. 
PRINTANIERE  WITH  QUENELLES  —  With  yellow 
quenelles  of  chicken.  POTAGE  COLBERT  WI»H 
EGGS-  Printaniere  with  a  poached  egg  in  each  plate. 
PUREE  OF  SORREL  WITH  CREAM — Veal -broth  thick- 
ened with  roux,  yolks,  cream,  puree  of  stewed  sorrel 
mingled  with  it.  PUREE  OF  TOMATOES — Fried 
vegetables,  onions,  ham;  flour,  tomatoes,  stock, 
strained;  croutons.  LEEK  SOUP  A  LA  PICARDE— 
Same  as  potato  with  leeks.  PUREE  OF  PUMPKIN— 
Stewed  pumpkin  strained  and  diluted  with  milk, 
butter,  seasonings;  sippets  of  bread.  PUREE  OF 
SPINACH — Spinach  simmered  tender  in  butter;  flour, 
broth,  boiled  milk,  strained,  made  green.  CREAM 
OF  CAULIFLOWER — Cooked  in  white  broth,  rubbed 
through  a  seive  with  cream,  butter,  flowerets  of 
cauliflower,  croutons.  PUREE  A  LA  CRECY— Stewed 
carrots  with  vegetables  passed  through  a  seive, 
stock  slightly  thickened;  croutons.  CRECY  AU  SA- 
GOU — Mince  up  2  onions,  fry  in  butter,  add  i  qt.  of 
nnely  minced  carrots,  season  with  salt  and  a  pinch 
of  sugar.  When  they  have  lost  their  humidity,  wet 
slightly  with  bouillon,  cook  over  a  moderate  fire, 
wetting  from  time  to  time  with  bouillon.  Pass  first 
trough  seive  and  then  through  tammy.  Dilute  the 


SOU 

pur<5e   in  i  qts.  bouillon,  allo'v  it  to  boil,  withdraw 
pan  to  side  of  fire,  skim,  and  season  at  the  last  mo- 
ment. Add  %  Ib.  boiled  sago,  and  bind  with  4  yolks 
of  eggs  and  2  oz.  butter.    This  done,  serve.     PUREE 
OF  CARROTS  A  L'ALLEMANDE-Pulpof  can ots  boiled 
in  salt-pork  stock,  flour,  butter,  yolks,  cream,  and 
noiiilles.   PUREE  OF  ASPARAGUS — Green,  with  green 
tops  passed  through  a  seive,  and  coloring;  green 
tops  and  fried  croutons  in  the  soup.    CREAM  OF  AS- 
PARAGUS—  White;  whole  asparagus   in   salt- pork 
:  stock  passed  through  seive;  stock  thickened;  cream, 
i  green  asparagus  tops,  and  croutons.     GREEN  CORN 
;  SOUP — Grated  raw  corn  in  stock  of  chicken  and  salt 
pork  with  a  moderate  seasoning  of  onion;  milk  or 
cream,  and  seasoning  of  chopped  parsley.   CANNED- 
CORN  SOUP— One  can  sweet  corn,  i  quart  boiling 
water,  I  qt.  milk,  3  tablespoonfuls  butter  rolled  in  i 
;  tablespoonful  flour,  2  eggs,  pepper  and  salt,  i  table- 
spoonful  tomato  catsup.    Drain  the  corn  and  chop  it 
in  a  chopping-tray,  put  on  in  the  boiling  water  and 
cook  steadHy  I  hour;  rub  through  a  colander,  leav- 
ing the  husks  behind,  and  return  with  the  water  in 
!  which  it  has  boiled  to  the  fire;  season;  boil  gently  3 
minutes,  and  stir  in  the  butter  and  flour;  have  ready 
I  the  boiling  milk,  pour  it  upon  the  beaten  eggs,  and 
,  these  into  the  soup;  simmer  i  minute,  stirring  all 
the  while;  take  up,  add  the  catsup,  and  pour  out. 
;  TOMATO  CREAM  SOUP— An  American  specialty.  To 
make  it  successfully,  that  is,  without  having  the 
milk  curdle  in  it,    two  separate  soups  should  be 
made:  a  puree  of  tomatoes  without  spices,  and  a 
white  cream  of  chicken  orveal  soup  in  which  apiece 
;  of  salt  pork  has  l>een  boiled;  the  latter  should  be 
thickened  and  finished,  and  the  tomato  soup  then 
i  mingled  with  it  and  not  afterwards  boiled.     PUREE 
1  OF  CHESTNUTS  A  LA  MANCELLE  —  Blanched  and 
,  boiled  Italian  chestnuts  passed  through  a  seive  in 
'.  game   broth;    little  sugar,    butter,   nutmeg,   yolks, 
croutons.    CUCUMBER  SOUP — See'Cur/imt'frs.    Po- 
:  TAGE  CREME  DE  CHICOREE  A  LA  COLBERT — White 
i  stock  and  cream,  thickened  with  yolks,  witii  stewed 
i  chicory  and  poached  eggs.     POTAGE  A  LA  RUSSE — 
i  Brown  soup  with  vegetables  and  round  balls  of 
|  sausage-meat.     POTAGE  A  LA  D'ARTOIS— Puree  of 
!  green  peas.     POTAGE  A  LA  PALESTINE— Puree  of 
•Jerusalem  artichokes.    POTAGE  A  L<  STAMBOUL — 
(  Puree  of  rice  and  tomatoes.    POTAGE  A  LA  CHAN- 
i  TILLY — Puree  of  lentils  with  cream.     POTAGE  A  LA 
•  SOUBISE — Puree  of  onions.     PUREE  DE  CONCOM- 
i  BRES — Pur£e  of  cucumbers.     PUKEE  DE  CHOUX- 
FLEURS— Purde  of  cauliflower.     COLD  SOUP— Put  a 
chicken  in  a  stewpan  with  a  bunch  of  parsley  and 
fennel  and  a  wineglassful  of  cucumber  juice;  3  pts. 
of  broth.  Bring  the  liquid  to  the  boiling  point;  stew 
it,  and  pop  the  stewpan  on  the  corner  of  the  stove. 
When  your  chicken  is  cooked,  drain  it,   pass  the 
broth   through   a  napkin   and   carefully  clarify   it. 
Simultaneously  you  have  had  cooked  a  garnishing 
of  celery  cut  in  sticks  an  inch  long.     Pour  this  gar- 
nishing into  your  soup-tureen  with  the  clarified  con- 
I  somme,  the  scollopped  breasts  of  the  chicken,  and  I 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


451 


sou 

tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley  and  green  fennel. 
Thoroughly  refrigerate  before  serving;  and  your 
potage  will  be  none  the  worse  for  a  few  little  bits  of 
ice  floating  in  the  liquid.  (See  Ices,  Iced  Soups.) 

SOUP  STICKS— Long  and  slender  crusty  rolls  are 
baked  in  fluted  pans,  to  be  eaten  with  soup.  A  sub- 
stitute for  grisini  bread  in  hotels  where  that  harder 
kind  of  finger-bread  would  not  be  generally  accept- 
able: The  moulds  to  bake  in  should  not  be  wider 
than  one's  middle  finger;  a  sheet  of  Russia  iron  can 
be  corrugated  at  the  shops  to  make  a  dozen  of  these 
little  troughs  in  one  piece. 

SOUSE — Pickled  meat,  such  as  pigs'  feet,  in 
spiced  vinegar,  which  are  called  in  some  sections 
soused  pigs'-feet.  SOUSED  SALMON — See  Salmon, 
pickled. 

SOUTHDOWN  MUTTON  — A  fine  breed  of 
sheep  improved  especially  for  mutton  and  not  for 
wool  in  the  South  Down's  grazing  region  of  En- 
gland furnishes  this  name  for  good  mutton  in  the 
American  bill  of  fare. 

SOY— A  bottled  sauce  imported  from  China  and 
India;  composition  uncertain. 

SPAGHETTI— Italian  paste  like  macaroni,  but 
not  tubular;  it  is  a  solid  cord.  Cooked  in  all  ways 
the  same  as  macaroni. 

SPANISH  COOKERY— The  same  names  of 
dishes  are  found  in  the  Spanish  bill  of  fare  as  in  the 
Mexican,  as  might  be  expected,  and  it  is  likely  to  be 
the  case  that  the  high-class  cuisine  in  the  City  of 
Mexico  and  of  the  same  grade  in  the  cities  of  Spain 
are  essentially  one  thing;  the  old  country,  however, 
is  subjected  to  the  rasping  friction  and  shaking-up 
of  the  cosmopolitan  crowd  of  railvvay  travelers  and 
tourists  and  can  scarcely  be  so  conservative  of 
Spanish  habits  as  the  Mexican-Spanish  cities  may 
be.  This  is  an  observant  traveler's  sketch  of  "A 
RAILROAD  EATING-HOUSE  IN  SPAIN— On  the  rail- 
road at  Miranda  I  for  the  first  time  tested  Spanish 
catering  at  the  buffet.  It  was  a  wonderful  meal — 
real  Spanish  cookery,  everything  done  in  oil;  but  it 
was  by  no  mea'ns  bad.  The  wonderful  thing  about 
it  was  the  way  in  which  the  passengers  got  through 
a  meal  of  ten  courses  in  fifteen  minutes  by  the  clock. 
It  was  one  plate  down  and  another  up.  The  waiters 
actually  gallopped  round  the  table  piling  plates  full 
of  soup,  fish,  entree,  joint,  fowl,  salad,  pastry,  cheese, 
and  fruit  before  the  astonished  passengers.  Heav- 
ens, how  we  ate!  How  we  finished  one  plate  and 
pushed  it  aside  and  seized  the  full  one  by  our  side! 
No  changing  knives  and  forks.  It  was  just  one  wild 
waltz  from  dish  to  dish."  Away  from  the  railroads, 
however,  the  family  resemblance  between  Mexico 
and  Spain  is  plainly  discernible;  in  Mexico  the  cook- 
stone  is  a  charcoal  furnace,  the  brasero,  a  furnace 
made  of  baked  earth,  and  in  the  old  country  a  trav- 
eler remarks:  "It  is  to  be  noted  that  in  the  Spanish 
kitchen  charcoal  takes  the  place  of  coal  or  gas  as 
fuel,  while  earthenware  vessels  are  generally  em- 
ployed instead  of  metal  ones.  AKROZ  CON  POLLO— 


SPA 

Rice  and  chicken.  This  is  one  of  the  national  dishes 
of  Spain,  and  may  be  seen  heading  as  well  the  Mex- 
ican bill  of  fare  on  a  former  page.  It  will  be  found 
to  resemble  certain  other  dishes  of  meat  with  rice 
described  in  Italian  and  Oriental  cookeries.  Put  3 
tablespoonfuls  of  oil  into  a  pan,  and  when  hot  place 
therein  some  small  pieces  of  fowl,  which  are  to  be 
cooked  slowly  in  the  oil  for  half  an  hour.  By  this 
time  the  pieces  should  be  brown.  Meanwhile,  in  an- 
other pan,  fry  also  in  oil,  onions,  garlic,  tomatoes, 
and  red  pepper,  adding  this  mixture  to  the  fowl,  to- 
gether with  6  or  8  oz.  of  well-washed  rice  and  :  pt. 
of  stock.  Cover  and  simmer  slowly  until  the  rice  has 
absorbed  the  liquid  and  becomes  soft.  Two  other 
dishes  designated  as  national  dishes  differ  but  little 
from  each  other;  one  is  PUCHERO—  A  soup  made  of 
any  or  several  kinds  of  meat  at  once  and  an  assort- 
ment of  Spanish  vegetables;  all  this  strained  out  and 
served  in  one  dish  while  the  soup  with  bread  is 
served  in  another.  Its  foundation  is  as  follows:  Fry 
onion  and  garlic  in  olive-oil,  add  any  kind  of  meat 
(beef,  mutton,  or  fowl,  either  alone  or  mixed  to- 
gether), cut  into  small  pieces,  and  seasoned  with 
salt,  plenty  of  pepper,  and  a  few  chillies.  Fill  up  the 
puchera  (an  earthen  pan)  with  water  or  stock,  a  little 
vinegar;  z.&&garbanzos(p.  kind  of  chick  pea),  all  veg- 
etables in  season  and  at  hand,  withholding  potatoes 
until  half  or  three-quarters  of  an  hour  before  the 
finish  of  the  dish.  The  ingredients  must  simmer 
slowly.  THE  OLLA  PODRIDA— Is  the  national  stew 
rather  than  a  soup.  It  is  composed  exclusively  of 
Spanish  produce,  such  as  garbanzos  (chick  peas), 
chirizos  (Spanish  red  sausages),  iong  pepper,  garlic, 
tomatoes,  and  all  sorts  of  roughly-cut  vegetables, 
such  as  cabbages,  endives,  carrots,  turnips,  onions, 
gourds,  and  French  beans.  All  these  ingredients 
are  put  together  in  a  large  earthen  pot  of  a  peculiar 
form,  with  a  piece  of  smoked  bacon,  a  fowl,  and  a 
piece  cf  beef.  When  done,  the  vegetables  are  laid 
at  the  bottom  of  a  very  deep  dish,  in  the  center  of 
which  is  placed  the  beef,  flanked  by  the  bacon  and 
the  fowl.  The  sausages  are  dished  around,  and  some 
of  the  liquor  from  the  pot  poured  over  the  whole.  In 
all  restaurants,  inns  and  hotels  in  Spain  there  is  in- 
variably an  olla  podrida  ready  to  be  served  at  the 
traveler's  request.  "  'Tis  reported  of  the  Marquis 
Ciappoint  Vitello,  an  Italian,  who  was  one  of  the 
best  soldiers  that  nation  ever  bred,  that  he  had  so 
great  a  liking  to  this  sort  of  olla  when  he  was  in 
Spain,  that  he  never  cared  to  dine  at  home,  but  walk- 
ing about  the  streets,  if  he  smelt  in  any  citizen's 
house  this  sort  of  victuals,  he  went  in  there,  and  sat 
down  at  his  table  to  dine  with  him.  Before  he  went 
out,  he  ordered  his  steward  to  pay  the  charge  of  the 
whole  dinner."  It  is  imparted  as  a  secret,  however, 
that  this  attractiveness  was  due  to  the  Spanish  saus- 
ages which  makes  both  of  the  foregoing  prepara- 
tions distinctive,  and  not  like  the  ordinary  vegetable 
stews  of  other  nations.  SPANISH  SAUSAGES,  OR 
CHORISSAS,  OR  CIIIKIZOS— Take  equal  weights  of 
fat  and  lean  pork  taken  from  the  prime  parts  of  the 


452 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


SPA 

animal;  mince  this  finely,  and  season  strongly  with 
garlic  and  cayenne;  pour  over  it  as  much  dry  sherry 
as  will  cover  it,  and  let  it  stand  in  a  cold  place  for  3 
or  4  days  till  it  has  absorbed  the  liquor;  put  the  meat 
into  large  skins,  and  moisten  with  the  liquor  that 
remains;  tie  the  sausages  in  links,  and  hang-  them  in 
a  cool,  dry  place;  they  will  keep  for  6  or  8  months; 
when  wanted,  drop  the  sausages  into  hot  water  and 
let  them  simmer  gently  until  done  enough.  One 
habit  in  cookery  the  Spaniads  have  which  is  like 
the  Italians'  and  is  a  reminder  of  the  fry-shops  of 
Rome.  All  kinds  of  cold  vegetables  are  used  in 
Spain,  dipped  in  batter  and  thrown  into  smoking 
hot  oil.  This  method  of  cooking  vegetables  is  ex- 
emplified in  the  truly  Spanish  dish  of  fried  sweet 
potatoes.  SPANISH  BEEFSTEAK  —  An  excellent 
breakfast  dish  is  a  beefsteak  cooked  Spanish  fashion. 
Take  a  slice  of  round  steak  an  inch  thick,  lay  it  on 
a  pie-dish,  add  a  little  water  to  baste  it  with,  and 
bake  it  for  30  minutes;  take  it  out  and  cover  it  with 
a  layer  of  sliced  onions,  and  bake  till  the  onions  are 
tender;  cover  it  with  a  layer  of  sliced  tomatoes,  and 
bake  20  minutes;  sprinkle  on  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
grated  cheese,  and  place  in  the  oven  long  enough  to 
melt  the  cheese.  During  the  baking  it  should  be 
basted  evpry  10  minutes.  This  recipe  is  fiom  the 
note-book  of  a  celebrated  caterer.  CHANFAINA— Is 
one  of  the  oldest  and  most  celebrated  national  dishes 
in  Spain,  and  the  name  is  mentioned  in  many  a 
legend.  The  recipe  is  as  follows:  Boil  a  pork  or 
mutton  liver  in  salt  water,  and  cut  it  when  done  in 
little  square  pieces.  Take  a  fine-chopped  onion, 
some  green  mint,  parsley,  Spanish  pepper,  cloves, 
whple  pepper,  salt,  cinnamon,  caraway,  saffron  and 
the  liver,  and  stew  the  whole  with  good  olive  oil, 
once  in  a  while  put  some  of  the  bouillon,  wherein 
the  liver  was  boiled,  into  the  stew,  and  when  done 
put  some  cracker  dust  or  grated  crumbs  of  stale 
wheatbread  over  it,  and  serve  it  either  hot  or  cold. 
(See  Gondingo.)  GASPACHO— Spanish  salad.  "It 
has  been  said,  Spain  knows  of  the  tomato  when  cold. 
Yes,  and  for  a  model  gaspacho  you  had  better  go  to 
Malaga  or  Seville,  for  the  sun  is  the  prime  ingre 
dicnt.  Take  several  fine  tomatoes  and  as  many  fine 
ripe  red  pimientos  dulcex,  and  when  your  tomatoes 
are  well  drained  cut  them  all  into  large  (not  too  thin) 
slices,  add  a  cucumber  in  transparently  shaved 
pieces,  some<of  the  creamy  sweet  onion  (uncooked), 
and  as  much  garlic  as  you  can  bear.  To  this  add 
salt,  pepper  (real  pepper  from  the  Isles),  and  oil, 
with  a  fair  squeeze  of  lemon  (gathered  fresh),  and 
you  shall  then  taste  of  a  dish  such  as  the  Spanish 
saying  assures  you  will  make  you  'indifferent  as  to 
whether  you  live  or  die.'  "  SPANISH  SWEETS — In 
Spain  fruit  takes  the  place  of  pastry.  Sweet  dishes 
or  dttlces  are  little  used  in  the  Peninsula.  The 
Spaniard's  favorite  sweet  is  turon,  an  almond  cake, 
very  rich,  used  chiefly  at  Christmas  time,  and  the 
following:  VII.HARACOS — Boil  10  Ibs.  of  pumpkin, 
when  thoroughly  done  pass  through  a  Chinese 
strainer;  add  \y>  Ibs.  flour,  10  weil  beaten  eggs,  ^ 


SPI 

teaspoonful  cinnamon,  i  teaspoonfuls  orange  water, 
and  Yi  Ib.  granulated  sugar;  beat  the  ingredients 
well  together  with  an  egg  whit,  and  fry  in  very  hot 
sweet  oil,  the  same  as  for  rice  fritters.  When 
cooked,  put  in  an  oval  dish  and  intersperse  with 
layers  of  granulated  sugar  and  drown  with  good 
sherry  wine;  serve  cold  for  dessert.  This  is  a  na- 
tional dish  for  Christmas  and  New  Years.  SPANISH 
FRITTERS — Cut  some  slices  of  bread  into  any  shape 
you  like,  pour  a  very  little  brandy  on  each,  mix  2 
eggs  with  2  spoonfuls  of  flour  and  a  little  milk; 
cover  the  pieces  of  bread  with  this  batter,  let  them 
rest  half  an  hour,  then  fry  in  very  hot  lard  or  butter; 
serve  hot,  with  a  little  jam  of  anv  kind  preferred  on 
each  fritter.  Spanish  fritters  (Spanish  fashion)  are 
made  without  the  addition  of  brandy.  They  are 
made  by  cutting  the  crumb  of  a  French  roll  into 
lengths  about  the  thickness  of  a  finger,  soaked  for 
2  hours  in  cream  or  milk,  to  which  has  been  added 
ground  cinnamon,  grated  nutmeg,  sugar  to  taste, 
and  an  egg  beaten  up  in  it.  They  are  next  drained, 
then  fried  in  hot  butter  to  a  nice  brown  color,  and 
served  hot. 

SPARROW- "The  tiny  little  wren  lives  3  years, 
the  thrush  10,  the  lark  13,  the  common  hen  of  com- 
merce 10,  the  boarding  house  brand  75,  the  crow  100, 
and  the  English  sparrow  is  immortal."  SPARROW 
PIE  —  An  enthusiastic  epicure  says,  speaking  of 
sparrows:  "  Xoone  who  has  not  tasted  it  can  know 
what  a  delicious  pie  the  little  bird  makes — tender, 
sweet,  and  resembling  the  best  of  reed  -  birds." 
SPARROW  AND  REED-BIRD  —  The  manner  of  pre- 
paring the  sparrow  does  not  differ  from  that  in  the 
case  of  the  reed-bird,  except  that  the  sparrow  meat 
is  somewhat  tougher,  and  requires  a  little  more  care- 
ful cooking.  The  sparrow,  when  nicely  browned, 
flavored  and  mounted  on  toast,  is  so  deceptive  that 
old  sports  are  frequently  unable  to  discover  the 
fraud.  Many  of  the  sparrows  are  sent  through  the 
adjacent  country  and  sold  in  the  restaurants  and 
hotels  for  fancy  prices  and  at  enormous  profit.  Ex- 
perienced cooks  say  they  are  frequently  at  a  loss  to 
decide  whether  or  not  the  birds  offered  for  sale  by  a 
suspicious  dealer  are  really  reed -birds  or  sparrows. 
They  profess,  however,  that  the  flesh  of  a  reed -bird 
is  a  little  whiter,  the  veins  a  little  bluer  and  smaller 
and  the  legs  better  shaped. 

SPARROW-GRASS  — Common  vernacular  for 
asparagus. 

SPECK  —  Salt  pork  or  unsmoked  bacon.  This 
word  is  found  in  old  English  bills  of  fare  of  200 
years  ago.  It  is  in  common  use  in  some  parts  of  the 
United  States  as  in  "cabbage  with  speck." 

SPICED  SALT— (/)-The  famous  cook,  Durand, 
advocates  the  use  of  spiced  salt,  which  he  avers,  has 
often  stood  him  in  good  stead.  The  following  are 
the  exact  quantities  he  gives  in  his  recipe:  Take  20 
oz.  salt,  4  heads  of  cloves,  2  nutmegs,  6  laurel  leaves, 
a  stick  of  cinnamon,  4  whole  black  peppers,  a 
drachm  of  basil  leaves,  and  the  same  quantity  of 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


453 


SPI 

coriander  seeds ;  pound  in  a  mortar  and  pass  through 
a  tammy;  pound  any  large  pieces  that  remain  over, 
pass  through  the  tammy,  and  keep  in  tightly  corked 
bottles.  (z)-2  Ibs.  salt,  i  oz.  of  powdered  sage,  i  oz. 
long  pepper,  J£  oz.  of  cloves,  J^  oz.  mice,  y±  oz. 
coriander  seeds;  moisten  the  salt  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  bay  rum,  dry,  and  mix  with  the  ground 
spices;  bottle  and  use.  Many  variations  can  be  made 
by  using  nutmegs,  white  peppers,  cayenne,  &c. 

SPINACH — Said  about  Spinach:  "Spinach,  to 
be  truly  enjoyed,  should  never  be  eaten  without 
liberal  saturation  of  gravy ;  and  French  epicures  say, 
'Do  not  forget  the  nutmeg.'  This  vegetable  goes 
excellently  with  swine's  flesh  in  every  shape,  but 
especially  ham,  the  stimulating  flavor  of  which  it 
greatly  modifies."  "A  gentleman  who  was  fond  of 
having  his  vegetables  good,  managed  his  spinach 
after  this  fashion :  Say  it  was  boiled  on  Monday, 
and  sent  to  the  table,  properly  seasoned,  as  the  cook 
supposed;  it  went  away  untouched.  The  next  day 
it  was  warmed,  with  an  additional  piece  of  butter, 
and  again  not  eaten;  and  so  on  for  four  or  five  days, 
each  time  absorbing  more  butter;  until  our  gour- 
mand, finding  it  sufficiently  good,  made  an  end  of 
it."  "Spinach  is  often  cooked  in  France  with  white 
wine.  There  is  a  popular  saying,  '-Cela  inets  du 
•via  dans  vos  epinards"  ("That  puts  wine  in  your 
spinach"),  referring  to  a  slice  of  good  luck.  But  I 
am  informed  that  the  dish  thus  prepared  is  not  very 
tasty,  and  that  epinards  au  jus  or  au  beurre  are  in 
every  way  preferable."  Fontenelle  was  a  great  epi- 
cure and  was  inordinately  fond  of  spinach.  He  had 
a  friend  who  frequently  dined  with  him  who  was 
equally  partial  to  the  succulent  vegetable  but  they 
differed  in  their  preferences,  of  the  mode  of  dress- 
ing, for  while  Fontenelle  preferred  it  a  la  creme, 
the  friend  chose  it  dressed  au  beurre.  In  conse- 
quence it  was  customary  when  they  dined  together 
to  have  the  spinach  divided  and  dressed  differently. 
One  day  Fentenelle  was  awaiting  his  friends  arrival 
and  the  spinach  was  ready  for  the  final  dressing 
when  instead  of  the  one  expected  there  came  a  mes- 
senger saying  the  friend  had  suddenly  dropped  dead. 
Fontenelle  thought  a  moment,  then  turning  towards 
the  kitchen  he  said:  "  Tell  the  cook  to  dress  all  the 
spinach  a  la  creme  f  and  without  further  comment 
he  went  to  dinner.  SPINACH  DRESSED  IN  GERMAN 
FASHION— Wash  the  spinach  clean  and  boil  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  with  some  salt.  Then  squeeze 
quite  dry,  and  cut  very  finely.  Mix  six  ounces  but- 
ter, one  ounce  bread-crumbs,  and  some  very  finely 
minced  onion,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  cream  or 
good  rnilk.  Boil  all  up  together  with  the  spinach, 
and  serve.  CANNED  SPINACH — The  latest  novelty 
in  American  canned  provisions  is  canned  spinach, 
•which  is  already  cooked,  and  only  requires  warm- 
ing by  immersion  of  the  tins  in  hot  water  to  be  ready 
for  table.  One  three-pound  can  contains  about  one 
peck  of  spinach,  measured  in  the  green  state.  EPI- 
NARDS A  L'ANGLAISE — Boiled,  drained  and  buttered 
as  in  paragraph  above.  EPINARDS  A  LA  CREME  — 


SQU 

Spinach  cooked  and  mashed,  cream  and  sugar 
added,  served  with  croutons  of  bread  fried  in  butter. 
EPINARDS  Aujus — Spinach  with  gravy.  EPINARDS 
A  L'ALLEMANDE  —  Spinach  in  German  fashion. 
SPINACH  A  LA  MAITRE  D'HOTEL— Boiled,  drained, 
seasoned  with  butter,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and 
sprinkling  of  vinegar.  SPINACH,  AMERICAN  STYLE 
— With  a  thin  slice  of  hot  roast  ham  on  top.  SPIN- 
ACH SOUPS — Spinach  pounded  and  rubbed  through  a 
seive  is  made  into  several  varieties  of  soups,  as 
puree  of  spinach,  cream  of  spinach,  spinach  with 
sorrel,  and  with  various  additions  of  other  vegetar 
bles,  rice  or  pastes.  SWEET  SPINACH  — Cook  the 
spinach  in  fresh  butter;  when  done,  stir  in  some 
pounded  macaroons,  sugar,  grated  lemon -peel,  and 
a  pinch  of  salt.  Hand  sponge  fingers  with  this  dish. 
SPICE  CAKES— Various,  as  ginger  cake  with 
mixed  spices,  fruit  cake  well  spiced  and  small  cut- 
out cakes  of  the  ginger-snap  kind. 

SPONGE  CAKE— Made  of  8 eggs,  %  cup  water, 
i  Ib.  sugar,  J£  Ib.  flour.  Sugar,  water  and  yolks 
beaten  together,  flour  stirred  in,  whipped  whites 
last.  SPONGE  DROPS — Teaspoonfuls  of  ihe  above 
mixture  dropped  on  paper,  dredged  with  sugar  and 
baked.  SPONGE  PUDDING  —  Sponge-cake  mixture 
steamed  in  a  mould. 

SPRAT — A  small  sea-fish,  in  appearance  some- 
thing like  a  sardine;  formerly  supposed  to  be  the 
young  herring.  It  appears  at  certain  seasons  in 
English  waters  in  immense  numbers  and  becomes 
extremely  abundant  and  cheap  in  the  markets. 

SQUAB-American  name  for  young  pigeons.  The 
methods  of  cooking  are  the  same  as  for  quails  and 
young  chickens.  Squab  pie,  like  pigeon  or  chicken 
pie. 

SQUAB  PIE,  DEVONSHIRE— In  Devonshire 
they  have  a  special  local,pie,  which,  is  "fearfully  and 
wonderfully  made."  It  consists  of  a  layer  of  sliced 
apples,  a  lay^r  of  sliced  onions,  and  a  layer  of  meat; 
the  meat  layer  is  well  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt, 
and  a  liberal  allowance  of  sugar.  They  proceed 
thus  until  the  pie-dish  is  filled;  it  is  then  covered 
with  a  crust.  In  spite  of  its  eccentric  ingredients, 
it  is  very  good  eating,  and  squab  pie  and  clotted 
cream  are  the  two  best  things  to  be  got  in  Devon- 
shire. 

SQUASH — There  are  two  classes  of  vegetables 
with  this  name  and  several  varieties  of  each.  The 
summer  squashes  are  like  the  English  vegetable 
marrow,  greatly  esteemed  as  a  mashed  vegetable, 
but  very  watery  until  dried  down.  The  winter 
squashes  are  as  mealy  as  potatoes  and  used  in  the 
same  ways.  They  are  as  large  as  pumpkins  and 
deeper  colored. 

SQUID— The  cuttle  fish;  abundant  in  the  Pacific; 
fished  for  and  taken  in  large  quantities  by  the  Chi- 
nese and  dried  for  use  and  sale. 

SQUIRREL— "The  squirrel,  a  charming  little 
animal,  which  ought  never  to  please  but  when  alive, 


454 


THE. STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


STA 

often  appeared  at  Rome  among  the  most  elegant 
dishes  of  the  feast.  At  first  it  was  only  eaten  by  ca- 
price; unfortunately  for  the  little  animal,  it  was 
found  to  be  very  nice."  "The  usual  way  of  cook- 
ing squirrels  in  France  is  the  same  as  for  pullet 
stewed  a  la  chasseur,  which  dish  the  squirrel,  thus 
prepared,  is  said  greatly  to  resemble.  Squirrel 
is  a  favorite  mets  in  many  French  country  houses. 
BROILED  SQUIRREL — Young  squirrels  are  flattened 
out  and  broiled  the  same  as  chickens.  POTTED 
SQUIRRELS — Baked  in  a  jar  in  the  oven.  (See  "Jug- 
ged Hare  and  Potted  Rabbit.)  SQUIRREL  STEW — 
(Set  Cumberland  SteTV.) 

STAP.CH  —  FRENCH  LAUNDRESSES  RECIPE  — 
Make  two  gallons  of  starch  the  ordinary  way  with 
water,  then  melt  in  half  of  a  common  candle.  Set  it 
out  of  doors  till  cool  enough  to  stir  round  with  your 
hand  and  then  mix  half  a  cup  of  raw  starch  and  stir 
in.  Take  off  the  sk'n  that  will  form  on  top.  "Any- 
body can  iron  with  it." 

STEAM  BREAD-- A  recent  invention.  It  is 
made  of  the  very  finest  flour,  and  baked  in  air-tight 
pans,  which  enclose  it  on  all  sicijs.  It  is  thus  baked 
in  its  own  steam  and  possesses  a  flavor  peculiarly 
its  own. 

STERLET— A  Russian  river  fish:  a  small  kind  of 
sturgeon. 

ST.  HONORE  CAKE— The  chaux  paste,  same 
as  for  queen  fritters  (ivhifh  see)  laid  in  form  of  a 
border  around  a  pie -paste  bottom  crust  and  baked; 
when  done  the  cake  is  filled  up  in  various  ways,  as, 
with  pastrv,  cream  or  custard  bordered  (on  top  of 
the  puff  border)  with  sugared  cherries  or  brandied 
fruits;orwith  the  pastry  cream  in  ixed  with  whipped 
cream,  etc. 

STILTON*  CHEESE  -An  English  cheese,  very 
choice  and  dear.  It  is  made  small  in  s  ze  and  drum- 
shaped,  is  cream -colored,  and  has  a  rough  or  wrin- 
kled crust.  J  ust  at  the  time  this  cheese  has  become 
fashionable  in  the.  United  States  it  is  giving  way  in 
England  to  gorgonzola,  the  new  favorite;  the  com- 
plaint against  Stilton  being  that  it  is  not  kept  up  to  the 
former  high  standard  of  quality  that  made  it  world- 
renowned  as  :\  dessert  cheese.  Stilton,  it  seems,  was 
first  made  by  a  Mrs.  Paulet,  of  Wymondham,  near 
Melton  Mowbray,  who  supplied  a  celebrated  sport- 
ing innkeeper,  named  Cooper  Thornhill,  of  the  Bell 
Inn,  Stilton.  Thornhill  got  a  great  name  for  his 
excellent  cheese,  and  used  to  sell  it  for  half  a  crown 
a  pound,  a  lot  of  money  at  the  time.  In  following 
English  customs  in  this  country  it  is  apt  to  be  for- 
gotten that  over  there  cheese  is  not  thought  to  befit 
to  eat  until  it  is  "ripe."  An  intimation  of  what  that 
means  is  conveyed  in  this:  "The  late  Charles 
Mathews  used  to  tell,  with  great  glee,  a  little  story 
of  Charles  Lamb  which  he  vouched  for  as  authen- 
tic and  believed  to  be  unpublished.  One  evening 
Mary  Lamb  took  a  sudden  and  violent  fancy  for 
some  Stilton  cheese  for  supper,  an  article  of  which 
there  was  not  a  scrap  in  the  house.  It  was  very 


STR 

wet,  and  getting  rather  late;  but  diaries,  with  that 
selfdenial  which  showed  itself  in  a  life-long  devo- 
tion to  his  sister,  at  once  volunteered  to  try  whether 
any  could  be  got.  He  sallied!  forth,  and  reached 
their  cheesemonger  just  as  the  shutters  were  being 
put  up.  In  reply  to  his  demand,  he  was  assured  that 
he  could  have  some  fine  ripe  Stilton;  and  the  shop- 
keeper proceeded  to  cut  off  a  slice.  As  it  lay  on  the 
scales,  Lamb's  attention  was  forcibly  arrested  by 
the  liveliness  of  the  surface  of  the  "fine  ripe  Stil- 
ton." "  Now,  Mr.  Lamb,"  said  the  cheesemonger, 
"  shall  I  have  the  pleasure  of  sending  this  home  for 
you  ?"  "  No,  th-th-thank  you,"  said  Charles  Lamb. 
"  If  you  will  give  mea  bit  of  twine.  I  cou-cou-could 
p'raps  1-1-1-lead  it  home!  " 

ST.  PIERRE — Name  often  met  with  in  foreign 
menus;  it  is  a  seafish,  the  John  dory. 

STRAWBERRY— A  prime  luxury  in  its  raw 
state  when  fresh,  and  good  again  in  the  form  of 
preserves  or  jam,  but  a  very  poor  fruit  for  stewing 
or  pie-making.  The  best  combinations  with  pastry 
instead  of  in  pies  are  the  STRAWBERRY  MERINGUE 
— A  sheet  of  cake  such  as  genoise,  or  butter  sponge 
cake,  or  regular  sponge  cake  (baked),  thickly  covered 
with  ripe  berries  and  sugar,  upon  these  a  thick  coat- 
ing of  soft  meringue  (see  meringue)  with  sugar  sifted 
on  top;  baked  enough  to  cook  the  meringue  but  not 
the  berries,  and  the  other  popular  and  wellknown 
American  dish  of  cooked  paste  with  raw  strawber- 
ries, known  as  STRAWBERRY  SHORTCAKE — The  do- 
mestic form  of  this  is  what  the  name  implies,  a  flat 
cake  of  short-paste  about  %  inch  thick  after  baking 
is  split  open  and  a  thick  layer  of  strawberries, 
sugared,  spread  between,  and  more  on  top.  The 
paste  may  be  made  of  J£  Ib.  butter  rubbed  into  i  Ib. 
of  flour  and  mixed  with  water.  Some,  however, 
use  bisquit  dough  made  light  with  baking  powder. 
The  best  is  puff  short- paste,  of  fully  y±  Ib.  of  biuter 
to  i  Ib.  of  flour,  made  by  rolling  in  the  butter  in 
!  flakes  instead  of  rubbing  in,  and  giving  the  paste  S 
I  rollings  in  all.  The  bakers,  of  course,  make  that 
j  which  sells  the  best,  and  strawberry  meringue  as 
i  above  described,  made  either  with  or  without  me- 
i  ringue,  is  the  popular  "strawberry  shortcake"  of 
the  shops  and  lunch  houses,  meringue  being  a  for- 
eign word  and  the  cake  combination  tasting  as 
sweet  by  the  familiar  home  name.  MAMMOTH 
STRAWBERRIES  —  The  large  berries  served  fresh 

i  should  have  the  stems  left  on  to  hold  them  bv ;  thev 

-  '        * 

;  are  dipped  in  powdered  sugar  as  eaten.  STRAW- 
BERRIES AND  CREAM-This  usually  now  means  with 
ice-cream.  It  should  be  pure  cream  and  not  a  cus- 
tard mixture.  Otherwise  the  berries  picked  from 
their  steins  are  served  in  saucers  with  powdered 
sugar  and  cold  cream  separately.  CLARET  AND 
STRAWBERRIES  —  Some  people  tell  you  that  you 
should  not  drink  claret  after  strawberries.  They 
are  wrong,  if  the  claret  be  good.  The  milky  taste 
of  good  claret  coalesces  admirably  with  the  straw- 

'  berries,  somewhat  like  cream.  If  the  claret  be  bad, 
it  is  quite  a  different  affair;  and  suspect  it  if  you 


THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


455 


STU 

find  the  master  of  the  house  anxious  not  to  make  the 
test."  "  Well,  and  did  you  not  think  him  quite 
right  about  claret  coalescing' with  strawberries? 
The  French  do,  at  any  rate.  Your  dish  of  '  straw- 
berries and  cream  '  is  unknown  here;  you  probably 
remember  the  story  about  the  horrified  '  Whatever 
is  this  for? '  that  came  from  a  French  gentleman  to 
whom  a  plate  of  mashed  strawberries  was  presented 
at  a  garden  party  during  a  recent  season.  Here  cla- 
ret is  added  to  the  strawberries  instead  of  cream  or 
milk,  and  an  admirable  improvement  it  is  on  the 
latter.  Only,  as  Maginn  says,  the  claret  must  be 
good." 

STURGEON— "  The  lordly  sturgeon,  which  may 
be  recommended  to  people  with  tolerably  good 
digestions,  larded  with  fillets  of  eel  and  anchovy, 
and  basted  with  thick  cray-fish  sauce."  A  STUR- 
GEON OF  FULL  SIZE— At  the  Tivoli  restaurant  was 
recently  exhibited  the  head  of  an  exceptionally  large 
sturgeon  caught  on  the  Dogger 
Bank,  and  consigned  to  Mr.  T. 
Kent,  of  Billingsgate.  The 
weight  of  this  royal  fish  was 
644  pounds;  its  measurement  be- 
ing 1 1  feet  2  inches  long,  and  5 
^  feet  2  in.  in  girth.  STURGEON  IN 
g  THE  GREAT  LAKES — The  stur- 
>J  geon  is  taken  in  abundance  in 
pj  Lakes  Michigan  and  Superior, 
#  and  as  the  price  in  market  varies 
I  according  to  the  demand  of  the 
o  curers,  the  lish  are  kept  alive  in 
•J  pens  at  the  fishing  stations  until 
D  orders  are  received  by  telegraph 
to  ship  to  the  city.  SMOKED 
STURGEON  —  Smoked  sturgeon 
is  now  included  by  epicures 
among  fish  delicacies.  About  a 
hundred  pounds  at  a  time  are 
placed  in  a  brick  furnace,  with 
eight-inch  walls,  leaving  an 
inside  square  of  about  three  feet.  A  very  hot 
fire  being  placed  directly  underneath,  the  fat  as 
it  melts  generates  its  own  smoke.  Care  has  to 
be  taken  that  the  flow  is  not  so  heavy  as  to 
produce  too  fierce  a  flame,  as  then  there  would 
be  a  charred  fish,  which  is  not  desirable.  The 
time  necessary  to  smoke  sturgeon  is  about  six 
hours.  Eels  undergo  a  like  process,  and  are  very 
palatable.  There  is  a  peculiarity  about  the  smoking 
of  haddock,  inasmuch  as  it  is  smoked  entirely  with 
sawdust.  Of  course  it  can  be  smoked  by  other 
means,  but  the  best  method  is  the  sawdust  fire. 
DAME  D'ESTURGEOX  AuFouR — Bakedslice  of  stur- 
geon. Lay  a.  fine  slice  of  sturgeon  in  a  tin  dish, 
sprinkle  with  a  little  olive  oil,  the  juice  of  a  lemon, 
chopped  mixed  herbs,  salt  and  pepper;  bake,  and 
when  done,  place  in  another  dish,  pass  the  sauce 
through  a  tammy,  pour  over  the  flsh,  and  hand  re- 
motslade  sauce  separately.  ESTURGEON  EN  FRI- 
CAXDEAU  —  Sturgeon  cut  in  thick  slices,  larded, 


SUG 

stewed  with  bacon  and  mushrooms  and  glazed.  ES- 
TURGEON BRAISE — Sturgeon  larded  and  braised  with 
wine  stock,  herbs,  onions  and  ham.  ESTURGEON  A 
LA  BOURGUIGNOTTE — Baked  cut  of  sturgeon  served 
with  Bourguignotte  sauce.  ESTURGEON  A  LA  Ro- 
YALE — A  sturgeon  tied  up  in  the  form  of  a  cushion, 
covered  with  forcemeat,  ornamented  with  slices  of 
truffles  and  red  tongue.  ESTURGEON  GRILLE  SAUCE 
PIQUANTE  —  Broiled  sturgeon  steak  with  piquant 
sauce.  ESTURGEON  A  LA  REINE — Small  sturgeon 
steaks  larded  with  strips  of  truffles  sand  lean  ham, 
parboiled  in  seasoned  broth;  put  into  oiled  papers 
with  chopped  herbs,  folded  up  and  broiled  in  the 
papers.  Served  without  the  papers  with  butter 
sauce  around.  TRANCHES  D'ESTURGEON  —  Slices, 
or  sturgeon  steaks. 

SUCRE  (Fr.)— Sugar.     SUCRES— Sweets. 

SUCCOTASH— Indian  name  of  a  mixture  of  but- 
ter beans  and  corn  cooked  together,  a  common  and 
popular  American  vegetable  dish. 

SUEDOISE— Swedish  dish  of  fruits,  compotes, 
placed  upon  rounds  of  fried  bread,  and  built  up  in 
pyramidal  form  around  a  center-piece  of  fried 
bread. 

SUGAR — In  cooking  such  sweet  preparations  as 
are  made  with  milk  or  cream,  whether  for  custards, 
puddings,  sauces,  or  whatever  else,  the  sugar  should 
be  mixed  in  before  the  milk  goes  on  the  fire,  and  it 
will  prevent  burning  on  the  bottom.  This  simple 
precaution  does  away  in  many  instances  with  the 
necessity  of  following  the  onerous  course  demanded 
by  most  cook-book  writers,  to  "  stir  the  mixture  (of 
eggs,  milk,  flour,  etc.,)  constantly  till  it  boils."  The 
milk  and  sugar  together  take  care  of  themselves, 
and  when  poured  to  the  eggs,  starch,  or  steeped  ta- 
pioca the  cooking  is  almost  finished  and  little  time 
lost.  DEGREES  FOR  BOILING  SUGAR— These  are  the 
smooth,  the  thread,  the  blow  or  feather,  the  ball, 
the  crack,  the  caramel.  ist.-Smooth,  or  215  degree? 
by  thermometer;  as  an  example  take  12  Ibs.  of  loaf 
sugar,  to  which  put  3  pts  water;  as  soon  as  it  boils 
see  that  all  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  if  not  use  the 
spaddle  to  assist  in  doing  so,  let  it  boil  for  five  min- 
utes or  so,  dip  into  it  the  handle  of  a  teaspoon,  draw 
it  between  the  finger  and  thumb;  if  on  working 
them  together  they  feel  slippery,  that  is  the  first  de- 
gree of  smooth;  this  degree  can  be  used  for  crystal- 
lizing liqueurs  and  various  other  goods.  2d-Thread, 
or  230  degrees  by  thermometer.  In  the  course  of  a 
few  minutes  the  sugar  passes  into  this  degree;  hav- 
ing soaked  the  previous  sugar  off  the  spoon,  try  the 
boil  again,  close  your  finger  and  thumb  together  and 
gently  part  them,  when,  if  you  perceive  a  thread- 
like appearance  between  them,  it  has  passed  into 
this  degree,  which  can  now  be  used  for  making 
liqueurs  or  bonbons,  &c,  3rd — Blow,  and  feather, 
240  degrees.  In  two  or  three  minutes  from  the  last 
sugar  passes  into  this  degree;  dip  a  small  skimmer 
or  slice  with  holes  in  it  into  the  sugar,  drain  it  off 
quickly  and  blow  hard  through  them,  you  will  per- 


456 


THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


SUG 

ceive  bladders  and  feathery  particles  pass  away. 
This  is  the  blow  or  feather,  very  useful  degrees,  and 
can  be  used  for  candying  peel,  fruit,  &c.  4th — The 
ball,  or  250  to  255  degrees.  About  the  same  time  as 
the  last  this  degree  arrives,  have  some  cold  water 
bandy.  Take  a  little  sugar  out  of  the  pan  with  the 
handle  of  the  spoon,  dip  it  into  the  water,  and  if  it 
is  tough  and  you  can  work  it  about  with  the  finger 
and  thumb  like  a  pinch  of  hot  bread,  that  is  the  ball 
which  can  be  used  for  candies  or  creams,  if  jams  or 
preserves  are  to  be  mixed  in  after  being  worked 
into  cream  by  the  spaddle.  $th — Crack,  310  to  315 
degrees.  Use  the  same  process  in  testing  as  the 
last,  but  quickly;  take  a  little  out  of  the  pan,  put  it 
into  cold  water,  when  it  will  crack,  or  slip  it  off 
quickly  and  bite  it  well;  if  it  crunches  and  leaves  the 
teeth  without  sticking  to  them,  pour  the  sugar  out 
instantly  on  your  slab.  This  is  the  most  usesul  de- 
gree to  the  hard  confectioner  for  all  purposes  of 
boiled  sugars.  (N.B. — In  trying  this  last  degree, 
unless  an  experienced  workman,  the  pan  must  be 
lifted  off  the  fire.)  6th— Caramel.  It  is  not  neces- 
sary to  try  this  degree  in  the  same  way  as  the  last; 
the  instant  the  sugar  changes  color,  which  must  be 
closely  watched,  as  it  occurs  rapidly,  it  must  be 
poured  out,  or  if  not  raquired  on  the  slab  but  for 
other  purposes,  such  as  spinning  sugar,  &c.,  place 
it  in  a  tub  of  cold  water  the  size  of  the  bottom  of  the 
pan,  to  stop  the  heat,  or  it  will  turn  very  dark.  This 
degree  is  mostly  used  for  spinning  sugar  for  orna- 
mental table  use.  To  PREVENT  GRAINING  —  Asa 
Tule,  put  about  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  the  cream  of 
tartar  to  an  eight  or  ten  pound  boil,  accordiag  to  the 
strength  of  sugar;  a  teaspoonful  of  the  strong  acids, 
or  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice  or  the  best  malt 
vinegar  to  the  same  quantity  of  loaf  sugar  to  reduce 
its  strength.  The  same  effect  is  produced  by  using 
"glucose,"  a  fifth  part  of  which  to  any  quantity  of 
sugur  will  reduce  it  to  the  required  working  condi- 
tion. The  advantage  of  this  is  in  increasing  the  bulk 
at  a  small  cost.  Although,  strictly  speaking,  this 
is  an  adulteration,  it  is  quite  wholesome.  THER- 
MOMETERS FOR  SUGAR  BOILING— Are  made  of  cop- 
per, degrees  properly  marked  for  the  purpose,  the 
scale  beginning  at  30,  the  degree  for  simple  syrup  as 
used  in  making  mousses  (ice  creams)  being  32.  Can 
be  purchased  at  confectioners'  supply  stores. 

SUGAR  ROCK  WORK,  or  honey-comb  candy, 
used  for  building  ornamental  pieces.  Having  made 
a  wooden  frame  about  12  or  16  inches  square,  and  4 
inches  deep,  place  it  on  a  wet  slab  or  wooden  bench; 
take  7  Ibs.  loaf  sugar  (no  lowering),  boil  to  the  cara- 
mel degree,  previous  to  which,  in  a  pound  jar  three 
parts  filled  with  fine  powdered  sugar,  mix  the  whites 
of  two  eggs,  beat  it  well  till  stiff;  when  the  sugar 
comes  to  the  degree  required,  put  in  any  color  you 
like,  take  it  off,  pour  icing  in  and  immediately  agi- 
tate the  whole  with,  the  spatula;  in  two  or  three 
minutes  it  will  rise  to  the  edge  of  the  pan,  let  it  fall 
.  again  and  continue  stirring,  as  soon  as  it  begins  to 
rise  the  second  time,  instantly  pour  it  into  the  frame. 


SWA 

Many  persons  fail  at  this  process  from  pouring  out 
at  the  first  rising,  which  on  the  slab  becomes  per- 
fectly flat  and  heavy.  When  cool  remove  it  by  pass- 
ing a  fine  string  or  ^ong  palate-knife  underneath  it. 

SUGAR  SPIXXJNG-Or  web  decoration.  Sugar 
boiled  as  above  to  the  beginning  oicaramel,  or,  take 
2  Ibs.  white  sugar,  J£  teaspoon  cream  tartar,  i  pt 
water,  boil  to  the  crack  for  white  web,  or  to  the  be- 
ginning of  caramel  for  yellow.  Let  it  cool  for  10 
minutes,  then  place  your  ornamental  piece  with  the 
stand  and  all  on  the  floor,  spread  a  newspaper  to 
catch  the  waste  threads.  Have  a  bunch  of  wire 
with  8  or  10  ends  or  prongs,  dip  the  wire  prongs 
into  the  hot  sugar,  and  as  it  drains  off  you  will 
swing  it  around  or  across  the  ornamental  piece  to 
make  a  silky  veil  of  fine  threads  till  you  have  all  the 
sugar  used  up.  If  not  wanted  that  way,  lay  a  broom 
on  the  table  with  the  handle  projecting  over  and 
swing  the  threads  back  and  forth  across  the  handle. 
When  done  run  your  hand  under  anfl  cut  the  threads 
loose  from  the  floor  or  paper  and  lay  them  in  a  bunch 
or  skein  where  wanted.  In  this  form  spun  sugar  is 
used  to  represent  water  flowing  in  a  cascade  over 
rocks  made  of  the  honey-comb  candy  above  men- 
tioned, or  flowing  out  of  a  dolphin's  mouth. 

SUNSHINE  CAKE— Yellow  cake  made  of  i# 
Ib.  sugar,  J^  Ib.  butter,  i  pint  of  yolks  beaten  with  i 
pint  of  milk,  \%  Ibs.  flour,  J^  Ib.  rice  flour,  2  tea- 
spoons baking  powder,  lemon  juice  and  rind. 

SURPRISES— Culinary  surpnses,  or  dishes  de- 
signated en  surprise,  are  things  which  prove  to  be 
other  than  they  purport  to  be,  as  when  a  cake  filled 
with  cream  is  made  and  colored  to  imitate  a  ham,  or 
a  baked  potato  is  found  to  conceal  a  filling  of  minced 
meat  or  a  bird. 

SWAN — Lately  figured  on  the  menu  of  Lingner's 
Restaurant.  A  roast  swan,  which  weighed  before 
trussin  35  Ibs.  As  to  its  culinary  treatment,  the  bird 
was  larded  and  stuffed  with  chestnuts  and  truffles, 
braised  before  roasting,  and  finally  served  up  to  the 
double  accompaniment  of  red  cabbage  and  port- 
wine  sauce.  There  was  a  good  demand  for  the 
dish,  and  roast  swan  was  soon  reported  "off." 
Twenty-nine  "  portions  "  were  served,  at  30  cents 
each.  Mr.  T.  Vallet,  of  the  Swan  Hotel,  Alton, 
sends  us  the  following  recipe  in  the  hope  that  it 
may  be  "  of  some  use  to  a  confrere,  who  finds  him- 
self face  to  face  with  a  cygnet  for  the  first  time." 
"  The  following  will  be  found  a  very  good  way  to 
treat  it:  When  the  bird  is  well  cleaned,  rub  it  inside 
and  out  with  a  spoonful  of  finely-bruised  cloves,  fill 
it  with  a  stuffing  made  of  2  Ib.  of  beefsteak,  chopped 
very  fine,  well  seasoned,  adding  4  oz.  of  butter  and 
some  chopped  shallot.  Sew  up  the  bird  and  tie  on 
the  spit  with  care,  so  as  not  to  let  the  gravy  escape. 
Cover  with  buttered  paper.  The  fire  should  not  be 
too  fierce,  as  the  bird  is  ant  to  acquire  a  high  color. 
A  cygnet  of  15  Ibs.  requires  a  little  over  two  hours. 
Half  a  pint  of  port-wine  boiled  with  a  little  glaze 
mixed  with  the  gravy  that  comes  from  the  roast  is 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


457 


SWE 

to  be  poured  on  the  dish.  It  should  be  served  with 
hot  currant  jelly  in  a  boat."  The  breeding  of 
swans  for  market  is  suggested  by  a  correspondent 
as  an  industry  likely  to  bear  profit.  He  writes:  "I 
dined  the  other  day  at  a  house  where  for  a  party  of 
twelve  a  swan  was  the  piece  de  resistance.  It  was 
pronounced  to  be  something  between  a  goose  and 
a  roast  hare  for  flavor,  and,  being  a  cygnet  of  last 
summer's  rearing,  it  afforded,  some  said,  as  much 
meat,  and  some  rather  more,  than  a  first-class  tur- 
key." CIGNE  and  CIGNET  are  the  French  for  swan 
and  young  swan. 

SWEETBREADS— Both  the  thymus  gland  and 
the  pancreas,  are  Included  in  the  culinary  name 
sweetbread,  the  substance  o^f  both  being  very  simi- 
lar and  either  answers  the  same  purpose;  the  pan- 
creas or  stomach  (or  "heart")  sweetbread  being 
generally  accounted  the  best,  although  the  throat 
sweetbread  is  freer  from  veins  and  more  delicate  in 
texture  and  therefore  often  recommended  in  spite  of 
its  irregular  shape,  which  is  like  a  piece  of  pulled- 
off  fat.  The  cooks  rely  upon  the  butchers  for  these, 
and  as  it  never  falls  to  a  cook  to  have  to  kill  and  dis- 
sect anything  larger  than  a  turkey,  he  takes  what 
the  butcher  furnishes  him  without  much  question 
concerning  the  localities  where  they  are  found 
within  the  animal,  and  then  begins  his  part  of  se- 
lecting them,  and  cooking  them  according  to  their 
adaptation,  the  best  in  shape  to  be  sliced,  larded, 
broiled,  baked,  braised  or  otherwise  cooked  in  good 
form;  the  unshapely,  irregular,  torn  or  diminutive 
ones  to  be  cut  or  minced,  served  in  patties,  or  mixed 
with  other  meats  and  mushrooms  in  various  gar- 
nishes, or  in  the  form  of  croquettes, rissols  or  kromes- 
kies,  or  the  form  of  scailoped  sweetbreads  and,  per- 
haps, if  they  be  plentiful  enough  to  devote  to  such 
a  purpose,  in  soup.  Sweetbreads  are  not  such  very 
choice  eating,  they  have  but  little  flavor,  but  they 
are  tender  meat,  like  fat  without  fatness;  they  are 
white  and  adapted  to  be  ornamented  with  strips  of 
larding  of  black  truffles,  green  cucumbers,  or  pista- 
chio nuts,  or  red  smoked  or  corned  tongue,  and  they 
take  the  flavors  of  herbs,  wines  and  well  -  made 
sauces.  That  is  why  they  are  sought  after  and 
necessarily  in  the  nature  of  things  they  are  scarce 
and  have  been  kept  among  the  exclusive  delicacies, 
that  it  was  thought  common  folks  had  no  business  to 
want.  People  who  board  in  hotels,  however,  want 
everything.  There  is  a  large  hotel  in  an  English 
city,  whose  proprietors  are  trying  their  level  best  to 
set  an  American  sort  of  a  table,  but  to  do  that  they 
have  to  send  over  to  France  for  some  of  their  sup- 
plies; they  cannot  get  either  tenderloins  of  beef  or 
good  veal  sweetbreads  from  their  home  butchers. 
The  French  eat  more  veal,  anyway,  than  any  other 
people,  and  calves'  sweetbreads  must  be  so  much 
the  more  abundant  there.  These  are  not  the  only 
kinds  of  sweetbreads,  however,  for  lambs  furnish 
the  most  delicate  of  all,  and  by  reason  of  their 
smallness  they  must  be  the  rarest  and  most  exclusive 
dishes  which  are  made  of  them.  COOKING  SWEET- 


SWE 

BREADS — Sweetbreads  have  taken  their  stand  as  an 
ubiquitous  entree,  and  few  elaborate  menus  are  ar- 
ranged without  them.  Patties  of  sweetbread  and 
truffles  are  in  high  favor  and  seem  to  be  the  caterer's 
standard  dish.  In  whatever  way  they  are  to  be 
afterwards  dressed,  sweetbreads  should  always  be 
steeped  in  water  for  two  or  three  hours,  then  boiled 
from  5  minutes  if  very  young  and  tender,  to  i  hour 
if  they  are  from  very  old  calves,  as  the  butchers 
sometimes  bring  them,  and  after  that  pressed  be- 
tween two  dishes  until  cold.  ESCALOPES  DE  RIS 
DE  VEAU — Scollops  or  slices  of  sweetbreads  pre- 
pared by  cutting  the  cold  and  pressed  sweetbreads 
into  small  thick  slices,  spreading  them  over  with 
a  croquette  mixture  of  minced  onions,  mushrooms, 
parsley,  seasonings  and  panada,  egging,  breading 
and  frying  them.  Brown  sauce  containing  sherry. 
COQUILLES  DE  RIS  o'AoNEAU —  Paris  restaurant 
specialty.  Lamb's  sweetbreads  scalloped  in  shells. 
The  sweetbreads  are  cut  in  dice,  cut  mushrooms 
mixed  with  them  and  both  slightly  fried  in  butter; 
rich  white  sauce  added,  filled  into  table-shells,  bread- 
crumbs on  top  and  melted  butter;  browned  in  the 
oven.  FRICANDEAU  OF  SwEETBREADS-The  sweet- 
breads already  cold  and  pressed  are  larded  with 
strips  of  salt  pork  on  the  best  side,  braised  in  stock 
with  herbs  and  vegetables;  the  liquor  strained, 
boiled  down  to  glaze  and  poured  over  them ;  served 
on  a  bed  of  spinach.  RIS  DE  VEAU  ALA  VILLEROI 
—The  sweetbreads  already  partly  boiled,  pressed 
and  cold  are  cut  in  slices,  coated  with  thick  white 
sauce,  breaded,  egged,  breaded  again  and  fried; 
served  with  white  sauce  and  any  dressed  vegetable. 
RIS  DE  VEAU  A  LA  PONTELLE— White  fricassee  of 
pieces  of  sweetbreads  in  cream -colored  sauce  with 
mushrooms.  RIS  DE  VEAU  A  LA  COLBERT — The 
sweetbreads  already  partly  boiled,  pressed  and  cold 
are  split,  buttered,  dipped  in  bread-crumbs,  broiled; 
served  with  colbert  cauce.  RISD'AGXEAU  A  LA  JAR- 
DINIERE— Lambs'  sweetbreads  larded,  braised  and 
glazed,  served  with  a  jardiniere  garnish  of  mixed 
vegetables.  RIS  D' AGNEAU  ACX  PETITS  Pois— The 
preceding  with  peas,  can  be  served  with  aspar- 
agus points  and  other  vegetables  and  named  accord- 
ingly. The  French  name  of  sweetbread  serves 
well  to  show  how  easy  it  is  to  be  wrong  in  wording 
a  bill  of  fare;  "  ris  "  is  not  only  "  sweetbread  "  but 
the  same  word  stands  for  "smile."  An  American 
lady  at  a  French  hotel  once  astonished  and  amused 
a  party  of  her  country  people  by  translating  the  dish 
''ris-de--ueau  a  la  financiere"  "  the  smile  of  a  calf 
at  the  banker's  wife,"  and  was  not  far  out  of  the 
way.  To  make  it  the  more  hazardous  writing,  while 
ris  is  sweetbread,  *'riz  "  is  rice,  thus:  CASSEROLE 
DE  RIZ  AUX  RIS  D'Ao.N'EAU-A  baked  shape  or  border 
of  rice  filled  with  lambs'  sweetbreads  in  sauce. 
Ris  DE  VEAU  FRITS — Veal  sweetbreads  fried.  Ris 
DE  VEAU  A  LA  PROVENCALE— Larded,  braised  with 
bacon,  garlic,  tarragon  leaves,  the  liquor  strained 
and  boiled  down  to  glaze.  PETITES  CROUSTADES- 
DE  Ris  DE  VEAU — Patty  cases  shaped  out  of  bread, 


458 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


SWE 
fried  and  tilled  with  sweetbread  in  sauce.     BLAN- 

QUETTE   DE  RlS   DE  VEAU  AUX  TRUFFLES— Round 

slices  cooked  with  slices  of  truffles  in  cream  colored 
sauce.    RIS  DE  VEAU  A  I.A  TOULOUSE  —  Larded, 
braised,  served  with  a  Toulouse  garnish  of  cocks- 
combs, mushrooms,  etc.,  in  white  sauce.     RIS  DE 
VEAU   PIQUES    A    LA  TURQUE — Larded,   braised, 
glazed,  served  on  a  border  of  forcemeat  with  rice  in 
the  center.     RIS  DE  VEAU  EN  BIGARKURE— Like  ar 
epigramme;  half  of  them  larded,  braised  and  glazec 
and  half  breaded  and  baked  brown,  served  in  pairs 
with  tomato  sauce.    ESCALOPES  DERis  DE  VEAU  EN 
CAISSE — Small  rounds  cut  with  a  tube  cutter;  with 
"fines  herbes  "  in  buttered  paper  cases  with  bread 
crumbs  on  top,   baked.     CROQUETTES  OF  SWEET- 
BREADS— Cut  very  small  or  chopped,  stirred  in  a  very 
thick  sauce  with  seasonings;  rolled  up  when  cold, 
breaded  and  fried.     CUTLETS  OF  SwEETBREADS-The 
croquette  mixture  patted  into  the  shape  of  mutton 
chops;  a  piece  of   raw  macaroni   to  represent  the 
bone,  breaded  and  fried  or  baked;  served  withtoma  - 
toes    or  other   vegetables.     RISSOLES  OF    SWEET  - 
BREADS-The  croquette  mixture  rolled  like  very  thin 
sausages,    rolled   up   in  thin   pie-paste  and   fried. 
KROMESKIES  OF  SwEETBREADS-The  croquette  mix- 
ture rolled  like  bottle  corks,  rolled  up  in  very  thin 
slices  of  boiled  bacon,  dipped  in  fritter  batter  and 
fried.     SWEETBREADS  WITH  KIDNEYS  A  LA  CORDON 
BLEU— Sweetbreads  larded  thickly  with  truffles, 
spread  over  with  pounded  pistachio  nuts  moistened 
with  white    of   egg,    baked    in    buttered    papers; 
served  with  a  border  of  broiled  lamb's  kidneys  and 
port  wine  sauce.     CURRIED  SWEETBREADS— Large 
slices  of  sweetbreads  fried  with  onion  and  butter, 
stock  added,  flour,  butter  and  curry  powder  stirred 
in;  served  with  rice.    MEDALLIONS  DE  RIS  DE  VEAU 
—Tomatoes  raw,  peeled,  are  cut  in  halves  and  dried 
down  in  the  oven;  round  slices  of  cooked  sweet- 
breads sandwiched  between  two  halves  of  tomato, 
breaded  and  fried;  served   with  fried  parsley  and 
supreme  sauce.     SWEETBREAD  SOUP  OR  POT  AGE  A 
LA  COMTESSE — Made  of  veal  stock,  cream,  cubes  of 
sweetbreads  and  fried  croutons.  SWEETBREAD  SOUP 
A  LA  PONTOISE — Sweetbreads  in  small  pieces  with 
raw  ham,  leeks,  white  wine,  in  chicken  stock  thick- 
ened with  white  roux.      SWEETBREADS    (  RIS   DE 
VEAU) — Are  in  Paris  served  larded  with  a  garnish 
of  pointes  d'asferges,  that  is,  green  asparagus  tops, 
boiled,  with  a  lump  of  butter  added.     This  tasty 
dish  is  tariffed  from  75  centimes  to  7  francs,  ac- 
cording to  the  restaurant  at  which  it  figures  on  the 
menu.     ENTREE  OF  SWEETBREADS— Take  4  sweet- 
breads, soak  and  blanch  them,  then  stew  in  milk  and 
water,   with  mace  and  lemon-peel;   when  cooked 
enough,  strain  the  gravy,  and  thicken  with  a  tea- 
cup of  cream  and  a  little  corn-flour.     Roll  up  eight 
or  ten  quite  thin  pieces  of  bacon,  and  fry  them  crisp, 
and  set  them  on  end  in  the  middle  of  the  dish,  then 
lay  small  bunches  of  asparagus  at  intervals  on  the 
top  of  the  bacon,  cut  the  sweetbreads  into  suitable 
size  pieces,  and  put  them  round,  then  pour  the  sauce 


TAM 

over  them  so  as  to  leave  the  bacon  and  asparagus 
clear. 

SYLLABUB  —  Old  English  name  of  whipped 
cream  flavored  with  wine  and  sweetened.  SYLLA- 
BUB WITH  JELLY  —  Gelatine  jelly  of  any  flavor  or 
color  served  in  a  border  of  whipped  cream. 

SYRUPS— Pure  fruit  syrups  are  extremely  use- 
ful in  hotel  cooking,  being  always  ready  for  sweet 
sauces,  sherbets,  ice  creams,  etc.  RASPBERRY  SY- 
RUP— The  juice  of  raspberries  expressed  either  by 
twisting  up  tight  in  a  strong  towel  or  in  a  fruit- 
press  made  for  such  purposes.  To  \%  pints  of  juice 
2  Ibs.  of  sugar  is  added,  melted  over  the  fire,  boiled 
a  while,  skimmed,  filled  into  bottles  and  corked. 
RED  CURRANT  SYRUP— This  and  other  fruits  by  the 
same  general  rule  as  for  raspberry  syrup.  GINGER 
SYRUP — 2  oz,  bruised  ginger  boiled  in  i  qt  water, 
strained,  and  2  Ibs.  sugar  added,  boiled  down  to  sy- 
rup. SODA  SYRUPS  —  The  foregoing  with  either 
dissolved  gum  arable  or  white  of  egg  added  to  form 
a  head  or  froth  on  top.  PLAIN  SYRUP  —  For  bar 
keepers'  and  general  uses:  7  Ibs.  loaf  sugar 
to  i  quart  water,  boiled  up,  skimmed,  strained. 

T. 

TALLEYRAND— "The  sole  depository  on  the 
entire  tradition  of  the  State,"  Talleyrand,  even  at  the 
age  of  eighty,  ate  but  one  square  meal  in  the  day, 
his  dinner;  and  every  morning  he  required  the  menu 
of  it  from  his  chef.  He  would  rise  at  ten,  dressing 
himself  even  after  the  hands  had  got  rebellious;  and 
half  an  hour  later  would  have  an  egg,  a  fruit  or  a 
slice  of  bread  and  butter,  a  glass  of  water  with  a 
dash  of  madeira  in  it,  or  perhaps  only  two  or  three 
cups  of  camomile  tea,  before  beginning  "work." 
No  coffee,  no  chocolate,  and  "China"  tea  verv  rarely. 
He  dined  at  eight  in  Paris,  at  five  in  the  country, 
well  and  with  appetite;  taking  soup,  fish,  and  a  meat 
entr6e,  which  was  almost  always  of  knuckle  of  veal, 
braised  mutton -cutlets,  or  a  fowl.  He  would  some- 
times have  a  slice  off  a  joint;  and  he  liked  eggs  and 
custards,  but  rarely  touched  dessert.  He  always 
drank  a  first-rate  claret,  in  which  he  would  put  a 
'ery  little  water;  a  glass  of  sherry  he  did  not  de- 
spise, and  after  dinner  a  petit-t'erre  of  old  malaga. 
tn  the  drawing-room  he  would  himself  fill  up  a  large 
:up  with  lumps  of  sugar,  and  then  the  maitre  d' ho- 
tel— CarSme,  no  less — would  add  the  coffee.  Then 
came  forty  winks;  and  afterwards  he  would  play 
whist  for  high  stakes.  His  senile  eye-lids  were  so 
swollen  that  it  was  a  vast  effort  to  open  them  to  any 
width,  and  so  he  often  let  them  close,  and  "slept"  in 
company  that  bored  him.  He  still  continued  to  call 
up  a  secretary  at  night,  and  dictate  to  him  through 
the  closed  bed -curtains. 

TAMARIND  — The  fruit  of  the  tamarind  tree 
which  grows  in  the  West  Indies;  it  is  in  the  form  of 
a  pod  containing  an  acid  pulp;  the  pods  are  packed 
n  casks  filled  up  with  syrup.  Eaten  as  a  sweetmeat 
ind  used  to  make  a  cooling  drink. 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


459 


TER 

TERRAPIN— A  salt-water  tortoise.  The  subject 
of  more  speculative  puffery  and  ingenious  advertis- 
ing to  advance  prices  to  the  most  absurd  extremes 
than  any  other  food-product  of  America.  Every 
crawling,  sliding,  sun  hasking,  mud-wallowing  rep- 
tile of  the  turtle  or  tortoise  kind  now  goes  to  pot  in 
the  name  of  one  particular  variety  called  the  dia- 
mond-back, and  as  all  are  gelatinous,  all  devoid  of 
any  decided  or  characteristic  flavor,  and  all  are  when 
dressed  highly  seasoned  and  alike  flavored  with 
sherry,  to  distinguish  one  variety  from  another  by 
the  taste  is  impossible;  and  to  pay  $4  or  $5  for  a 
plateful,  or  $10  or  $20  a  quart  for  the  prepared  article 
is  sheer  infatuation,  a  fashionable  craziness,  a  con- 
fession to  being  the  dupe  of  cunning  advertisers. 
Terrapin  or  tortoise  is  good  eating  as  cooked  in 
Maryland  country-houses,  as  are  soft-shell  turtles, 
hawk's -bills,  and  snapping  turtles  likewise:  they  are 
all  gelatinous,  tender,  and  susceptible  of  being 
highly  flavored  by  skillful  cookery.  COOKING  TEK  - 
RAPIN — There  are  four  principal  ways,  the  white 
fricassee,  brown  fricassee,  the  terrapin  pie  (like 
chicken  pie),  and  the  baking  in  the  shell  to  be  eaten 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  butter.  These  terms  are  used 
here,  because  chicken  fricassees  or  stews  are  very 
generally  understood,  and  terrapin  is  the  same  with 
the  addition  of  more  or  less  wine,  according  to  cir- 
cumstances or  individual  tastes.  TERRAPIN,  MARY- 
LAND STYLE— The  cream  stew  or  white  fricassee. 
The  terrapin  dropped  into  boiling  water  and  allowed 
to  remain  for  about  15  minutes;  then  handled  with  a 
towel,  and  the  outer  skin  of  the  legs  hastily  scraped 
off  before  it  becomes  set  fast.  The  terrapin  is 
opened,  gall  bladder  sought  for  and  removed  with- 
out breaking,  intestines  thrown  out,  eggs  saved,  and 
liver;  flesh  removed  from  the  shells,  divided  in 
pieces,  simmered  in  butter  and  the  terrapin  liquor 
collected  from  the  shells  while  cutting  up,  little  sea- 
soning of  mace,  salt,  pepper;  flour  stirred  in,  sherry 
and  boiled  cream ;  the  eggs  added  at  last.  TERRA- 
PIN, BALTIMORE  STYLE— The  same  method  with, 
brown  sauce  and  wine  instead  of  cream  and  wine. 
In  either  case  the  first  scalding  is  only  a  parboiling, 
and  the  blood  still  runs  inside,  and  the  cut -up  terra- 
pin must  cook  about  an  hour  afterwards  to  make  it 
gelatinous  and  tender.  TERRAPIN  SOUPS— Cream 
of  terrapin  is  made  of  terrapin  broth  strengthened 
with  veal  or  chicken  broth  and  vegetable  season- 
ings, cream  and  butter,  pieces  of  terrapin  and 
thickening  of  yolks  mixed  in  without  curdling  with 
too  much  heat,  and  chopped  parsley.  Terrapin  soup 
brown  is  made  same  as  turtle  soup. 

THOX  (Fr.)-Tunny;  a  fish. 

TIMBALE—  Thimble  or  drum  shape;  anything 
formed  in  a  plain  round  mould. 

TOMATOES— These  brilliantly  colored  fruits  are 
most  wholesome  and  delicious  to  those  who  have 
once  acquired  the  taste  for  them.  To  our  mind  there 
is  no  more  delightful  salad  at  this  time  of  year  than 
a  coup'e  of  well-ripened  tomatoes  sliced,  sparingly 


TOM 

flavored  with  shredded  onion,  seasoned  with  pepper 
and  salt,  and  liberally  sauced  with  Provence  oil  and 
white  wine-vinegar  (two  parts  of  oil  to  one  of  vin- 
egar.) COOKING  TOMATOES— "There  are  two  modes 
of  adapting  the  use  of  the  tomato  to  man — the  hot 
and  the  cold.  For  the  latter  the  Spaniard  is  supreme ; 
but  the  Provencale  alone  knows  how  to  dress  it  hot. 
The  people  of  Bordeaux  (where  all  the  women  are 
born  cooks)  imagine  they  can  supply  you  with  a  dish 
of  stuffed  tomatoes.  It  is  a  mistake.  Firstly,  their 
soft,  often  hazy,  south-western  climate  does  not 
furnish  the  fruit;  secondly,  they  have  not  the  oil; 
and,  thirdly,  they  have  not  the  'trick'  of  it.  No! 
there  are  a  few  things  for  which  you  must  go  to 
Provence  (of  which  Messer  Francesco  Petrarca — a 
rare  gourmet  in  his  day— was  well  aware.)  You 
must  go  to  Aix  for  its  oil,  to  Barbantane  for  its  as- 
paragus, to  Cavaillon  for  its  aubergines  and  its  mel- 
ons— those  Sir  John  Falstaffs  of  the  kitchen  garden; 
I  to  the  Fontaine  de  Vaucluse  for  its  eels  and  its  fat 
'  becqite fiffiien;  but  to  Avignon  for  its  tomates  farcies. 
This  dish  is  the  business  of  a  dav.  First  take  a 


TIMBALE  MOULDS. 

shallow  copper  tourtiere  and  see  how  many  tomatoes 
of  equal  size  will  fit  into  it,  very  closely  together. 
Next  take  out  each  tomato,  cut  off  one-third  of  the 
upper  part,  and  put  it  (face  downwards)  into  a  plate 
upon  a  pinch  of  strewn  salt.  Leave  the  fruit  for 
about  three  hours,  until  all  the  acid  juice  shall  have 
exuded.  This  prevents  the  stupid  complaint  of  ig- 
noramuses, that  'tomatoes  are  unwholesome,  and 
they  are  afraid  of  them.'  When  all  the  'vice'  has 
been  taken  out  of  them,  range  your  'apples'  in  the 
tourtiere,  with  a  teaspoonlul  of  oil  at  the  bottom  to 
keep  them  moist,  and  then  delicately  apply  to  each 
one  a  light  covering  of  the  forcemeat  described  be- 
low, introducing  the  wee-est  portion  of  it  into  the 
orifices  of  the  cut  fruit.  When  this  is  complete,  set 
it  on  a  charcoal-fire  covered  over  with  ashes,  and  let 
it  stew  gently  till  it  is  ready  to  serve.  The  time  usu- 
ally required  is  two  hours  or  two  hours  and  a  half. 
The  '  stuffing '  consists  of  yolk  and  white  of  eggs 
boiled  hard,  of  tarragon  and  chervil,  of  breadcrumbs 
(sifted),  of  an  onion  or  two  (cooked),  of  a  spice  of 
garlic;  the  whole  well  chopped  and  mixed  together 


460 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


TOR 

(not  till  it  is  a  paste),  and  at  last  having  some  grated 
Gruyere  cheese  (de  premiere  qualite)  added  on  to  it. 
All  this  'stuffing'  must  be  so  delicately  spread  over 
the  tomatoes  that  it  forms  a  manner  of  light  crust; 
and  previously  to  being  carried  to  table  it  must  be 
cunningly  'browned'  by  a  very  skilful  hand.  The 
whole  time  of  its  stewing  it  has  to  be  unremittingly 
watched,  for  if  it  gets  dry,  oil  must  be  gently  dropped 
in,  and  if  a  danger  of  wet  shows  itself,  it  must  be 
obviated  by  a  pinch  of  the  finely -grated  cheese.  It 
is  a  plat  calling  forth  every  quality  of  a  first-rate 
cook;  but  when  it  succeeds,  it  amply  justifies  the 
high  reputation  of  the  Provencal  chefs." 

TORTUE  (Fr.)— Turtle. 

TOURNEDOS  OF  BEEF— Small  thin  beef- 
steaks briskly  fried.  They  are  served  in  crown- 
shape  with  a  sauce  in  the  center. 

TRAGACANTH — Gum  dragon;  used  for  making 
gum -paste  ornaments  for  cakes.  It  becomes  like 
flour  paste  when  soaked  in  water,  and  is  then  mixed 
with  sugar  and  starch. 

TRIPE— It  consists  of  the  first  stomach  of  the  ox. 
The  fibre  differs  from  that  of  meat;  is  both  nutritious 
and  of  easy  digestion.  To  cleanse  tripe  is  quite  a 
trade  of  itself,  it  being  an  object  to  make  the  finished 
product  as  white  as  possible;  the  method  is  to  steep 
the  tripe  in  lime  water  or  in  lye  water  for  2  or  3  days 
and  then  scrape  away  the  outer  coating,  after  which 
it  is  soaked  in  several  waters  for  some  days  longer. 
The  hotel  buyer  finds  it  in  market  ready -prepared, 
either  uncooked  and  fresh  or  in  kegs  in  spiced  vin- 
egar ready -cooked.  The  raw  tripe  requires  10  hours 
slow  boiling  to  make  it  tender  for  the  subsequent 
modes  of  dressing;  the  soused  tripe  is  used  in  all  the 
same  ways,  and  if  desired  can  be  divested  of  most 
of  the  vinegar  by  soaking  in  •water  with  a  little  soda; 
simple  washing  in  one  water  is,  however,  generally 
a  sufficient  preparation.  SAID  ABOUT  TRIPE — "The 
Greeks  devoured  tripe  with  much  complacency,  re- 
garding it,  indeed,  as  a  dainty  fit  for  heroes.  It 
formed  the  chief  dish  at  the  banquets  of  men  who 
met  to  celebrate  the  victory  of  mortals  and  gods  over 
the  sacrilegious  Titans." — "The  Carleton  Club  has  a 
famous  specialty  of  broiled  honey-comb  tripe  with 
butter." — "Well-dressed  tripe  with  its  natural  ac- 
companiment— onions — is  an  excellent  supper-dish, 
as  it  is  equally  digestible  as  a  sole." — "Those  who 
are  fond  of  tripe  I  should  advise  to  instruct  their 
cooks  to  use  white  crystal  sugar  in  the  cooking,  say 
one  ounce  to  the  pound  of  meat,  to  be  stirred  in  im- 
mediately before  being  served."  TRIPE  A  LA  MODE 
DE  CAEN — "Happening  to  be  at  Caen  I  took  steps  to 
learn  exactly  how  the  tripe,  for  which  this  town  is 
so  famous,  is  prepared.  Strangers  sometimes  wish 
to  regale  themselves  with  this  dish;  but  if  they 
happen  to  partake  of  it  on  a  week-day,  they  run 
great  risks  of  being  disappointed,  for  it  is  on  Sun- 
days only  that  the  wholesale  manufacture  takes 
place.  Every  Saturday  the  lovers  of  tripe  carry 
dishes,  soup-plates,  and  other  receptacles  to  the  dif  • 


TRI 

ferent  shops.  The  money  to  pay  for  each  portion  is 
invariably  put  in  the  bottom  of  each  plate.  At  some 
shops  these  dishes  come  in  by  dozens,  and  long  jour- 
neys are  often  undertaken  by  customers  to  reserve 
the  quantities  they  desire  at  the  shops  in  good  re- 
pute. For  if  the  preparation  of  tripe  is  a  general  in- 
dustry here,  one  only  finds  that  fine  gold-colored 
sauce,  which  is  so  justly  appreciated,  at  those  houses 
where  only  the  best  ingredients  are  used,  one  of  the 
principal  of  which  is  the  good  butter  of  the  district. 
The  following  is  the  recipe  usually  followed,  and  is 
suited  to  all  countiies:  .Take  some  fine  fresh  tripe, 
bleached  and  well  washed  in  warm  water.  Rinse  it 
thoroughly,  and  let  the  water  run  off  completely. 
Cut  the  tripe  into  two-inch  squares.  Bone  4  COW- 


TROPHY  OF  PIGEONS  [BOXED]. 

On  shell-shaped  dish;  stand  of  white  wax  or 

mutton  fat  cast  in  mould. 

heels,  and  cut  them  into  pieces;  take  an  ox-tail  and 
cut  it  into  several  pieces.  Take  a  large  narrow- 
mouthed  stone  jar,  put  in  it  first  a  layer  af  tripe,  then 
a  layer  of  onions,  next  your  pieces  of  cow-heel,  then 
the  ox-tail,  then  the  rest  of  the  tripe.  Add  a  good 
handful  of  leeks,  parsley,  thyme,  and  laurel-leaves, 
plus  i  onion  into  which  you  have  stuck  6  cloves. 
Cover  the  whole  with  i  kilo  of  butter  (2  Ibs.  3}^  oz.), 
and  i  kilo  of  good  fresh  beef-kidney  fat.  Pour  in  2 
litres  (4J£  pts.)  of  caramelized  water,  2  glasses  of 
brandy,  and  hermetically  close  the  jar.  Put  it  into 
an  oven,  and  let  it  bake  for  10  hours.  You  will  thus 
obtain  tripe  of  most  excellent  quality."  A  TRIPE 
DINNER — A  company  having  been  formed  to  estab- 
lish and  conduct  a  number  of  tripe  houses  or  restau- 
rants, the  directors  had  a  sample  dinner  prepared 


THE  STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


461 


'  TRO 

where  the  principal  dishes  were  "Tripe  a  /'An- 
glaise"  (broiled),  "Fried  Tripe  a  la  Soubise"  (with 
pure'e  of  onions),  "Tripe  a  la  Milanaise"  (in  tomato 
sauce),  "Baked  Tripe  and  Onion  Sauce."  TRIPE  A 
LA  CREOLE — Cut  \%  Ibs.  of  tripe  into  narrow  strips, 
put  in  a  saucepan  with  enough  gravy  stock  to  cover 
it,  add  }^  Ib.  of  tomatoes,  some  chopped  onion,  a 
clove  of  garlic,  little  olive-oil,  salt,  Worcestershire 
sauce,  and  red  peppers.  Stew  gently  until  well  done, 
and  serve.  TRIPE  A  LA  LYONNAISE — Cut  in  strips, 
mixed  with  fried  onions  and  espagnole,  or  meat- 
gravy.  TRIPE  A  LA  POULETTE— Take  the  thickest 
and  whitest  tripe,  cut  it  into  thin  slices,  and  put 
them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  little  white  gravy,  i  spoon- 
ful of  vinegar,  a  little  lemon- juice  and  grated  lemon- 
peel;  add  the  yolk  of  i  egg  well  beaten,  with  a  little 
cream  and  chopped  parsley;  shake  together  over  a 
slow  fire  until  the  gravy  is  as  thick  as  cream,  but  do 
not  let  it  boil;  served  with  sippets  of  toasted  bread. 
FRIED  TRIPE  -Wiped  dry,  dipped  in  egg  and  cracker 
dust,  fried.  TRIPE  IN  BATTER— Pieces  about  2% 


TRU 

well  together.  FILLETS  OF  TROUT — Are  prepared 
in  precisely  the  same  way  as  fillets  of  salmon;  the 
fillets  are  dipped  in  beaten  egg,  drained,  and  rolled 
in  fine  bread-crumbs,  and  fried  a  light  brown  color 
in  boiling  lard  or  oil. 

TRUFFLE — A  species  of  fungus  which  grows 
several  inches  under-ground,  but  never  appears 
above  the  surface.  It  is  one  of  the  articles  of  great 
luxury  in  France  and  Italy,  where  it  grows.  As  it 
cannot  be  cultivated  but  grows  spontaneously,  the 
harvest  is  extremely  uncertain  and  prices  often  run 
up  to  an  extravagant  height.  This,  however,  is  one 
of  its  attractions.  Brillat-Savarin  remarked:  "Per- 
haps if  they  were  not  expensive,  but  were  within 
the  reach  of  everybody,  ive  should  not  prize  them  so 
highly."  It  is  said  that  the  gray  (inferior)  truffle 
has  been  found  in  Massachusetts  and  Pennsylvania, 
and  the  black  truffle,  equal  to  the  Perigord  truffle, 
has  been  dug  up  in  Virginia.  As  to  the  color,  how- 
ever, some  authorities  contend  that  the  gray  or 
white  truffle  is  the  black  truffle  in  its  unripe  state. 


inches  square  dipped  in  fritter  batter  and  fried  in  a 
kettle  of  hot  lard  or  oil;  served  for  breakfast. 

TROPHY — A  general  designation  for  a  highly 
decorated  piece  of  cooks'  work,  of  no  particular 
form,  but  in  any  form.  Trophies  of  game  are  some- 
times composed  of  cooked  game  of  several  kinds 
with  their  skins  or  feathers  replaced,  beaks  and  claws 
gilded,  etc. ;  but  any  conspicuously  ornamental  piece 
may  be  called  a  trophy. 

TROUT  —  Brook  trout  are  generally  fried  or 
broiled,  though  the  lake  trout  found  in  Hamilton 
County,  Seneca  Lake,  etc.,  are  better  boiled,  and 
served  with  a  simple  sauce  of  parsley  and  butter. 
BROILED  TROUT — The  following  is  a  choice  old  rec- 
ipe for  dressing  trout:  Take  out  the  entrails, cut  the 
fish  across  the  side  and  wash  them;  fill  the  cuts  with 
thyme,  marjoram,  and  parsley,  chopped  fine;  set  the 
gridiron  on  a  charcoal  fire,  rub  the  bars  with  suet, 
and  lay  the  trouts  on,  basting  them  with  fresh  butter 
until  they  are  well  broiled;  serve  with  a  sauce  of 
butter  and  vinegar  and  the  yolk  of  an  egg  beaten 


They  are  found  underground  by  means  of  dogs  and 
pigs  trained  to  hunt  them  by  the  scent.  The  canned 
and  bottled  truffles  obtainable  at  the  fancy  grocery 
stores  serve  a  purpose  in  decorating  dishes  and  fill- 
ing out  the  names  of  dishes  in  genuine  style,  but 
they  possess  little,  if  any,  of  the  perfume  and  flavor 
of  the  fresh  article.  A  BAD  TRUFFLE  HARVEST — 
There  has  been  a  rise  in  the  price  of  Perigord  truf- 
fles, and  the  Parisian  chefs  are  much  concerned  at 
the  high  cost  of  these  delicacies,  which  now  com- 
mand no  less  than  $3  a  pound.  The  less  savory 
Piedmont  and  Dauphine  species,  which  fastidious 
cooks  despise,  may  be  had  for  $2.  These  are  sold 
to  poultrymen  and  pork  butchers  to  stuff  turkeys, 
&c.  There  is  so  much  difference  in  the  quality  and 
flavor  of  truffles,  that  caterers  for  epicurean  tastes 
very  rarely  buy  any  but  the  real  Perigord,  which 
has  a  peculiar  and  delicious  aroma,  A  GOOD  TRUF- 
.FLE  HARVEST — A  Paris  correspondent  writes:  "It 
is  gratifying  LO  learn  that  the  truffle  crop,  now  in 
process  of  gathering,  is  to  be  a  very  abundant  one, 


462 


THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


and  a  single  house  at  Perigeaux,  which  is  the  center 
of  the  truffle  trade,  purchased  three  and  a  half  tons  j 
last  week.     Some  of  the  truffles  in  this  lot  weighed  ; 
over  one  pound  each,  this  being  a  very  uncommon  ; 
weight  to  attain:  and  it  may  be  assumed,  therefore, 
that  truffles  will  be  cheaper  than  they  have  been  for 
the  last  few  seasons."    TRUFFLES  A  LA  SERVIETTE 
— Truffles  in  a  napkin.       The  largest  truffles    are 
baked  in  the  coals  like  potatoes,   and  served  in  a 
folded  napkin.    TRUFFES  AU  SUPREME — The  best 
recipe  for  cooking  truffles  is  Truffes  au  Supreme, 


for  which  proceed  as  follows:  One  dozen  fine  truf- 
fles, black  with  large  grain  are  best;  put  them  to 
boil  in  half  a  botte  of  old  madeira,  with  two  little 
liqueur-glasses  of  fine  champagne  cognac,  gray  salt, 
a  pinch  of  cayenne,  a  clove  minus  its  head.  Let  all 
this  boil  together  for  the  space  of  half  an  hour,  then 
withdraw  the  truffles  and  place  them  in  a  timbale, 
reduce  the  liquor  in  which  they  have  been  boiled  to 
one  half,  add  half  a  spoonful  of  meat-glaze,  "body" 
the  sauce  with  some  good  butter,  pour  it  over  the 
truffles  and  serve  at  once.  TURKEY  STUFFED  WITH 
TRUFFLES — See  Dindon  Truffe. 

TUNNY-A  fish  like  the  Spanish  mackerel,  found 
in  the  Mediterranean.  It  is  taken  also  in  Florida 
waters  and  known  as  the  horse  mackerel.  Tunny 
is  esteemed  by  the  Italians;  they  preserve  it  in  oil 
and  "thon  "  prepared  in  various  ways  is  very  fre- 
quently met  with  in  European  menus,  but  oftenest 
among  the  hors  cFtzuvres. 

TURBAN — Crown  shape;  anything  built  up  in 
such  shape  in  a  dish  or  formed  in  a  turban  mould. 

TURBOT  (Fr.)— Turbot;  same  in  both  tongues. 

TURBOT— This  is  the  most  highly  esteemed  of 
all  flatfish,  not  only  on  account  of  its  intrinsic  ex- 
cellence, but  because  of  its  favorable  shape  for  the 
purposes  of  decoration.  Famous  as  it  is,  and  often 
appearing  in  American  menus,  it  is  .not  found  in 
American  waters  any  more  than  is  the  sole.  It  is 
very  probable  that  in  many  esses  where  the  bill  of 
fare  offers  turbot  the  place  is  filled  with  plaice  or 
large  flounder  or  fluke  for  a  substitute;  but  on  the 
other  hand  the  English  turbot  is  unlike  most  fish  in 
being  the  better  for  keeping  a  short  time  and  the 
fish  brought  over  by  the  mail  steamers  are  still  in 
excellent  condition,  so  that  genuine  turbot  is  not  out 


TUR- 

of  the  question  when  a  rarity  is  desired.  SAID 
ABOUT  TURBOT — A  tujbot,  if  kept  two  or  three  days, 
will  eat  much  finer  than  a  very  fresh  one;  it  being 
only  necessary  to  sprinkle  the  fish  with  salt,  and 
hang  it  by  the  tail  in  a  cool  place.  Before  putting 
it  into  the  kettle  make  an  incision  in  the  back,  rub 
it  well  with  salt,  and  then  with  a  cut  lemon.  If  a 
turbot  be  boiled  too  fast  it  will  be  woolly."  "You 
may  serve  up  salmon  with  as  much  ornament  as  you 
will,  but  a  turbot  asks  for  nothing  but  aristocratic 
simplicity.  On  the  day  after  he  makes  his  first  ap- 
pearance it  is  quite  another  affair.  It  may  then  be 
disguised;  and  the  best  manner  of  effecting  this  is 
to  dress  him  a  la  Bechamel."  "The  great  French 
cook  Careme  never  sent  any  other  sauce  than  melt- 
ed butter  to  table  with  turbot."  Notwithstanding 
'he  foregoing  remark  a  "turbot  ;i  la  Careme"  is 
now  a  complicated  dish  of  boiled  turhot  covered 


with  a  creamy  stew  of  small  shellfish.  The  turbot 
is  epecially  adapted  to  be  cooked  by  boiling — sim- 
mering in  court  bouillon — but  is  also  cooked  in  all 
other  ways  of  any  kind  of  fish.  TURBOT  FINS— 
"  The  thick  part  of  the  fins  and  the  gelatinous  skin 
are  the  parts  of  the  fish  most  relished  by  epicures. 
\Vheif  preparing  it  for  cooking  on  no  account  cut 
off  the  fins."  TURBOT  GRILLE  A  LA  VATEL  — 
Broiled  small  turbot  served  with  mussel  sauce  and 
crayfish.  TURBOT  A  La  RELIGEUSE — Convent  style ; 
boiled,  served  in  Hollandaise  sauce,  sprinkled  with 
chopped  tarragon,  and  garnished  with  hard-boiled 
egg.  FILETS  DE  TURBOT  P^KisiENXE-Take  a  small 
and  fat  Dover  turbot,  and  cut  the  four  fillets  obtained 
from  the  fish  into  scallops,  well  shaped  and  trimmed. 
Prepare  a  forcemeat  of  whiting,  mixed  with  puree 
of  fresh  mushrooms,  and  spread  this  forcemeat  over 
the  fillets  very  smooth.  A  good  mushroom  sauce 
should  be  poured  over  them.  TURBOT  A  LA  Vic- 
TORlA-Simmered  in  court-bouillon  till  tender,  dished 
the  white  side  uppermost  on  a  folded  napkin  or  lace 
edged  fish  paper;  the  whole  white  surface  sprinkli-d 
with  lobster  coral;  decorated  with  stuffed  olives  and 
pickled  cranberries. 

TURKEY — A  turkey  cock  is  best  for  roasting,  a 
hen  for  boiling;  and  be  sure  it  is  properly  cooked, 
for  half -cooked  poultry  is  simply  uneatable.  "  A 
turkey  boiled  is  a  turkey  spoiled,"  runs  the  old  pro- 


THE  STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


463 


TUR 

verb  uncompromisingly;  bxit  a  change  is  always 
pleasant,  and,  in  spite  of  the  dogmatic  old  law,  a 
properly  boiled  turkey  is  uncommonly  good  eating. 
WILD  vs.  TAME  TURKEYS — The  wild  turkey  is  afar 
more  excellent  table  bird  than  the  domestic  turkey; 
in  fact  there  is  no  comparison.  The  barnyard  can 
not  give  that  flavor  and  that  texture  which  testify  to 
wild  berries,  seeds  and  nuts,  fragrant  grasses  and 
pungent  buds  eaten  in  the  freedom  of  the  wilderness. 
In  short  the  true,  the  genuinely  patriotic  Thanks- 
giving roast  is  the  body  of  a  wild  turkey.  The 
great  day  comes  just  at  the  time  when  spring- 
hatched  birds  are  coming  to  maturity,  plump  and 
tender,  juicy  as  ripe  fruitand  flavored  by  thesubtlest 
processes  of  nature  to  a  delicate  nicety  which  no 
cook  may  hope  to  imitate.  The  epicure  knows  this 
flavor  and  values  it,  and  the  wild  turkey  should 
bring  twice  the  price  of  a  domestic  one  in  the  mar- 
ket. "  Lord  Lome's  attempt  to  acclimatize  the  wild 
turkey  has  so  far  proved  successful,  and  there  seems 
no  reason  why  it  should  not  be  bred  throughout  the 
country  and  take  its  place  on  the  menu  side  by  side 
with  the  wild  duck." 

TURTLE  —  Half  a  dozen  great  turtles  in  the 
United  States  alone  give  their  tender  flesh  to  epi- 
cures, and  minister  to  aldermanic  amplitude.  These 
all  come  out  of  the  sea,  and  the  chief  of  them  is  he 
of  the  green  tint.  A  salt  water  turtle,  weighing 
500  pounds,  was  captured  &t  the  mouth  of  the  Spur- 
wink  Rtver,  in  Maine,  by  two  brothers  named  Jor- 
dan. It  seems  the  monster  got  entangled  in  the 
nets  these  men  had  set,  and  they  fastened  to  the  tur- 
tle and  towed  him  ashore.  Monday  they  sold  him 
to  Captain  Howard  Knowlton,  for  his  garden  at 
Peaks'  Island.  The  price  paid  for  the  turtle  was 
$50.  So  broad  is  the  shell  of  this  monster,  that  four 
boys  found  room  to  stand  thereon,  and  the  turtle 
was  strong  enough  to  crawl  along  with  this  load. 
A  MAMMOTH  TURTLE  —  While  the  steamer  Flora 
Temple,  of  Jacksonville,  Fla.,  was  cruising  near  the 
snapper  banks  yesterday  about  fifteen  miles  off 
shore,  Captain  Montcalm  Broward  observed  an 
immense  black  object  floating  on  the  surface  of  the 
water.  Upon  approaching  it  he  discovered  that  it 
was  an  immense  turtle  of  some  sort,  which  was 
lazily  sleeping  on  the  surface  of  the  water.  The 
captain  secured  a  harpoon,  and  when  near  enough 
he  dexterously  threw  the  weapon  and  succeeded  in 
fixing  it  firmly  in  the  back  of  the  monster.  It  was 
found  impossible  to  raise  this  mountain  of  flesh  to 
the  deck  of  the  boat,  so  the  captain  attached  a  haw- 
ser to  the  harpoon  and,  taking  it  in  tow,  brought  it 
up  to  the  city,  arriving  at  Decottes'  woodyard  about 
5  o'clock,  when  the  huge  object  was  hauled  out  upon 
the  shore,  where  its  great  size  soon  attracted  a  large 
crowd  that  gazed  with  wonder  upon  the  strange 
visitor.  The  weight  of  the  captain's  catch  was  va- 
riously estimated  to  be  from  1000  to  1,500  pounds. 
It  measured  across  the  anterior  limbs  fully  eight 
feet  two  inches,  was  seven  feet  two  inches  from  the 
end  of  the  nose  to  the  tip  of  the  tail,  and  perhaps 


TUR 

eight  feet  in  circumference.  The  captain  called  his 
catch  a  tortoise,  but  the  News-Herald  man  identi- 
fied it  as  a  peculiarly  splendid  specimen  of  the  trunk 
or  leathery  turtle  (Spharffis  coriacea.)  This  great 
sea  denizen  inhabits  the  Gulf  stream  along  the  At- 
lantic shores  and  elsewhere.  It  does  not  have  a 
shell,  but  is  covered  with  a  leathery  skin,  with 
seven  longitudinal  ridges.  It  is  the  largest  of  the 
turtle  tribe.  TURTLE  STEAKS  —  The  flesh  of  the 
turtle  is  called  "  Barbadoes  beef"  in  the  \Vest  In- 
dies. Turtle  steaks  and  turtle  fins  are  favorite 
breakfast  dishes  in  the  Antilles.  TURTLE  PIE — 
There  are  many  ways  of  cooking  turtles  in  the  Ba- 
hamas, where  they  are  largely  caught.  The  favorite 
plan  is  to  make  the  bulk  of  the  flesh  into  a  kind  of 
hash,  well  doctored  with  port  and  other  wines,  and 
then  to  serve  it  up  in  the  shell  covered  with  crust, 
so  that  it  looks  like  a  kind  of  meat  pie.  This  is 
called  "baked  turtle."  TURTLE  SOUP  THICK  OR 
LICE— The  turtle  is  killed  by  cutting  off  the  head, 
hung  up  by  the  hind  flippers  to  bleed,  then  lowered 
into  a  kettle  of  boiling  water  and  parboiled,  if  con- 
venient, but  if  not,  can  be  cut  up  raw,  as  it  is  done 
in  the  New  Orleans  fish  markets,  where  turtle  is 
sold  in  cuts  as  wanted  like  ahy  other  raw  meat. 
The  object  of  scalding  is  to  make  the  shell  separate 
easily  and  allow  the  outer  skin  to  be  peeled  from 
the  fins.  When  opened  the  gall  bladder  and  in- 
testines are  taken  out  and  thrown  away,  the  eggs, 
if  any,  saved,  and  the  green  fat  found  under  the 
shells  is  saved  separately,  the  turtle  meat  allowed 
for  the  soup,  and  the  chopped  up  shells  are  then 
put  on  to  boil  in  water.  In  another  boiler  is  made 
the  same  preparation  as  for  espagnole  (which  see) 
of  fried  slices  of  ham,  veal,  onions  and  other  vege- 
tables, spices  and  herbs  in  butter,  brown  rcux 
added,  and  veal  or  beef  broth  and  the  turtle  broth, 
which  are  all  then  allowed  to  simmer  slowly  for 
some  time;  the  ronx  of  butter  and  flour  having 
thickened  the  soup,  it  requires  stirring  and 
care  to  prevent  burning.  The  remaining  op- 
eration is  to  strain  the  soup  from  the  mixed 
ingredients,  skim  off  the  fat,  put  in  the  turtle 
meat  cut  in  pieces,  the  turtle  eggs,  pieces  of  green 
fat,  salt  and  cayenne,  and  madeira  or  sherry,  and 
little  lemon  juice.  TURTLE  SOUP  A  LA  CREOLE — 
The  only  difference  from  the  foregoing  is  the  addi- 
tion to  the  boiling  soup  before  straining  of  a  large 
proportion  of  stewed  tomatoes,  about  one-fourth  of 
the  whole  being  tomatoes  before  straining.  TURTLE 
SOUP  CLEAR— Is  made  in  both  of  the  ways  just  de- 
scribed, with  the  single  difference  that  no  roux  or 
other  thickening  is  put  in.  Cooks,  who  have  a  reg- 
ular daily  habit  of  making  a  clear  consommfi  of  some 
kind  for  dinner,  often  proceed  in  a  different  way  by 
seasoning  and  clarifying  the  turtle  broth  and  color- 
ing it,  adding  the  cubes  of  turtle  meat  at  the  mom.  nt 
of  serving.  Turtle  soup  is  not  nearly  so  well  known 
or  highly  thought  of  in  the  United  States  as  in  En- 
gland, where  it  is  and  has  long  been  almost  a  na- 
tional dish,  noth  with  standing  their  turtles  have  to 


464 


THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


TUR 

be  imported  from  this  side.  This  is  on  record  since 
So  years  ago:  Turtle  Soup — "The  usual  allowance 
at  a  turtle  feast  is  six  pounds  live  weight  per  head ; 
at  the  Spanish  dinner,  at  the  City  of  London  Tavern, 
August,  i  SoS,  400  guests  attended,  and  2,500  Ibs.  of 
turtle  were  consumed."  Appropos  of  turtle  soup 
and  turtle  steak,  it  was  Artemus  Ward  who  said: 
"As  for  me,  give  me  turtle  or  give  me  death.  What 
is  life  without  turtle?  Nothing!  What  is  turtle 
without  life?  Nothinger  still !" 

TURTLE  EGGS— Turtle  eggs  are  held  in  great 
esteem  wherever  obtainable,  equally  by  Europeans 
as  by  others.  These  eggs  have  a  very  soft  shell, 
and  are  about  the  size  of  ordinary  pigeon's  eggs. 
The  mother  turtles  lay  three  or  four  times  a  year, 
at  the  rate  of  from  140  to  200  eggs  each  laying.  The 
Orinoco  and  Amazon  Indians  obtain  from  these  eggs 
a  kind  of  clear  sweet  oil,  which  they  use  in  much 
the  same  way  as  we  do  butter.  In  the  month  of  Feb- 
ruary, wnen  the  high  waters  of  the  Orinoco  have 
receded,  millions  of  turtles  come  on  shore  to  deposit 
their  eggs,  which  they  always  carefully  cover  over 
with  the  sand.  The  natives  about  the  mouth  of  the 
mighty  River  Amazon  alone,  gather  some  5,000  jars 
of  the  oil,  and  each' jar  of  oil  represents  the  product 
of  over  5,000  of  these  turtle  eggs. 

W. 

WOODCOCK— Small  game-bird  larger  than  a 
snipe;  in  season  5  months,  September  to  January  in- 
clusive. SAID  ABOUT  WOODCOCK — "There  is  noth- 
ing in  the  whole  miindus  edibilis  equal  to  a  well- 
prepared  woodcock.  To  no  other  bird  do  we  pay 
such  homage:  is  is  the  glory  of  the  gourmet,  the 
pride  of  the  cook,  the  well-beloved  of  all  men;  the 
height  of  gustatory  excitement,  the  consummation 
of  all  luxury;  succulent  as  regards  its  flesh,  volatile 
touching  its  elements,  and  perfect  respecting  its  fla- 
vor."— "The  gourmets  have  away  of  knowing  when 
the  flesh  of  the  woodcock  is  arrived  at  the  degree  of 
flavor  required  to  be  sought  after.  The  bird  is  sus- 
pended by  the  beam-feather  of  the  middle  of  its  tail; 
when  the  body  gets  loose  and  full,  then  is  the  time 
to  eat  it." — "In  one  respect  the  woodcock  (and  also 
his  cousin,  the  snipe)  is  more  honored  than  any 
other  kind  of  game.  He  is  never  drawn;  every 
morsel  of  him  is  eaten,  to  the  last  entrail.  The 
choicest  bit  is  the  head,  the  thigh  is  finer,  the  trail  is 
considered  superlative.  The  usual  way  of  roasting 
this  bird  is  to  tie  him  up  in  slices  of  bacon,  and  hang 
him,  tail  downwards,  before  the  fire.  Under  each 
bird  is  put  a  slice  of  bread,  toasted  a  delicate  brown, 
and  on  to  this  the  trail  drops.  Sometimes  when  half 
done  the  trail  is  removed,  mixed  with  bacon  fat, 
chopped  shallot  and  crumbs  of  bread,  salt  and  pep- 
per, and  then  spread  upon  the  toast,  which  is  re- 
turned to  the  pan  until  the  bird  is  finished.  Lemon 


WOO 

in  slices  is  served  with  him."— "It  is  a  bad  plan  to 
'spit*  any  small  birds;  they  should  be  tied  to  a  spit, 
and,  if  roasted  in  the  contrivance  which  the  French 
call  a  rotisscire,  they  stand  a  better  chance  of  being 
artistically  roasted." — "When  roasted,  woodcocks 
and  snipes  ought  to  be,  as  the  French  term  it,  vert- 
cuit—  that  is  to  say,  underdone.  As  is  well  known, 
they  must  not  be  drawn;  the  gizzard  alone  is  ex- 
tracted from  the  inside  with  the  point  of  a  skewer, 
inserted  in  the  side  of  the  bird,  which  is  then  trussed 
in  the  usual  way,  and  wrapped  up  in  a  slice  of  fat 
bacon  tied  round  with  string.  Fifteen  minutes  is 
sufficient  time  to  roast  a  woodcock  before  a  brisk 
fire."  WOODCOCK  PIE — "Snipes  and  woodcocks 
are  plentiful  in  Ireland.  In  accordance  with  ancient 
custom,  the  Lord-Lieutenant  sends  every  year  as  a 
Christmas  present  to  the  Queen  a  monster  game-pie 
composed  of  2  doz.  woodcocks  and  about  100  snipes. 
The  birds  are  boned  and  stuffed  with  a  farce  of 


WOODCOCK — BECASSE. 

foie  gras  aux  truffes,  and  the  crust  is  elaborately 
decorated  with  appropriate  designs."  WOODCOCK 
COOKED  iy  AMERICAN  STYLE — Picked  and  singed 
while  fresh;  head  skinned;  eyes,  crops,  and  gizzards 
removed;  trail  chopped  with  two  chicken  livers,  salt, 
pepper,  butter,  and  spread  on  slices  of  toast.  Birds 
with  slices  of  fat  pork  on  breasts  roasted  in  hot  oven 
15  minutes,  toast  with  trail  set  in  oven  5  minutes; 
woodcocks  served  on  the  toast.  BECASSES  A  LA 
PIEMONTAISE —  Woodcocks  roasted,  served  with 
game  sauce  and  truffles.  FILETS  DE  BECASSES  A  LA 
TALLEYRAND — Breasts  of  woodcocks  in  form  of  a 
crown,  with  croutons  of  fried  bread  spread  on  the 
trails,  same  size  as  the  fillets;  fumet  sauce  with 
truffles  in  the  center.  FILETS  DE  BECASSES  A  LA 
LUCULLUS — Breasts  of  woodcocks  coated  with  force- 
meat and  served  on  a  border  of  toasted  bread,  with 
a  thick  purge  of  woodcocks  piled  in  the  center,  and 
game  sauce  around.  SALMIS  DE  BECASSES — Wood- 
cocks are  the  best  of  all  birds  for  a  salmis.  TURBAN 
DE  BECASSES  AUX  CHAMPIGNONS — The  birds  cut  in 
halves  and  dished  in  crown  shape  with  game  sauce 
and  mushrooms.  CHAUDFROID  DE  BECASSES — 
Woodcocks  roasted,  cut  in  joints,  coated  by  dip- 
ping in  thick  chaudfroid  of  game  sauce;  decorated; 
eaten  cold. 


APPENDIX  TO  THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


How  TO  FOLD  NAPKINS 


With  Many  Handsome  Styles  and  Diagrams 
Which  Show  How  it  is  Done. 


CHIIC-A.C3-O.   ILL. 

JESSUP  WHITEHEAD  &  CO. 

PUBLISHERS  HOTEL  COOK  BOOKS. 
1899. 


.Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress  in  the  Office  of  the  Librarian,  at  Washington,  by 
JESSUP  WHITEHEAD,  1887  and  1889.— All  rights  reserved. 


CONTKNTS. 


PAGE. 

Introduction 5 

The  Escutcheon 7 

The  Chestnut  Pocket 8 

The  Shield 8 

The  Mitre.... 8 

The  Cornucopia 9 

The  Crown . 9 

The  Scroll  10 

The  Slippers 11 

The  Cocked  Hat,  or  Boat . 11 

Another  Boat 12 

The  Hamburgh  Drum 13 

The  Heraldic  Rose  and  Star j 14 

The  Minarettes 14 

The  Shell 15 

The  Fan 15 

The  Rosette  Fan 16 

The  Victoria  Regia 16 

The  Swan 16 

Lorgnettes , 17 

The  Pyramid 17 

The  Fleur-de-Lys 18 

The  Archbishop's,  or  Double  Mitre 18 

The  Bread  Basket 19 

The  Flower  Basket '. 20 

The  Imperial  Crown 20 

The  Double  Horn  of  Plenty 21 

The  Colonne  de  Triomphe , 21 

The  Tulip 22 

The  Bridal  Serviette J 23 

The  Prince  of  Wales's  Feather ;„„_  24 

The  Arrow  Head 25 

The  Menu  Holder ._  25 

Mercury's  Cap.. 26 

The  Sail  Boat 27 

Hotel  Napkin  Folding , 28 


(3) 


INTRODUCTION. 


The  folding  of  the  serviette  may  often  be  made  complimentary  to  the  guest. 
Not  only  does  "the  Bridal"  point  out  its  special  application;  but  "the  Crown," 
"the  Prince  of  Wales's  Feather,"  and  "the  Mitre."  "The  Boat"  is  appropriate 
\vhen  a  naval  chief  is  the  honored  guest;  "the  Colonne  de  Triomphe,"  for  the 
entertainment  of  a  hero  fresh  from  a  new  victory;  "the  Victoria  Regia"  fora 
distinguished  botanist,  and  "the  Fan"  for  a  reigning  belle,  so  may  "the  Cocked 
Hat "  be  made  available  when  a  military  hero  is  entertained,  and  "  the  Heraldic 
Rose  "  for  a  guest  whose  hobby  is  with  things  that  appertain  to  the  board. 

In  the  days  of  our  forefathers  the  quantity  and  quality  of  the  viands  were 
thought  of  more  consideration  than  the  appointments  of  the  table.  Provided  the 
hospitable  board  groaned  beneath  the  combined  weight  of  substantial  food  and  a 
silver  service,  the  banquet  was  pronounced  magnificent.  Now  we  have  changed 
all  that.  The  contents  of  the  dishes  have  become  secondary  in  importance  to  the 
decorations.  The  eye  must  be  feasted  as  well  as  the  palate.  Heavy  silver 
ornaments  have  given  place,  or  at  least  are  associated  with,  vases  of  crystal  and 
abundance  of  flowers,  with  scent  fountains  and  the  choice  fruit  selected  for  des- 
sert. The  folding  of  the  serviette,  or  table  napkin,  was  always  a  matter  of  atten. 
tion ;  at  the  present  moment  it  is  doubly  so,  when  the  luxury  of  table  decorations 
are  carried  to  such  an  extent  that  ingenuity  is  constantly  on  the  strain,  not  only 
to  produce  every  possible  variety  of  cartes  de  menu,  but  even  fanciful  stands  to 
hold  them  or  the  guests'  name-cards  in  a  prominent  position.  The  parlor  maid 
or  the  waiter,  or  the  dainty  mistress  of  the  house  herself,  must  look  to  their 
laurels  in  the  matter  of  folding  serviettes,  or  the  other  showy  trifles  placed  on  the 
board  will  cast  the  attractions  of  the  table  napkin  completely  into  the  shade.  To 
fold  them  well  in  the  more  elaborate  styles,  it  is  necessary  that  they  should  be 
made  of  very  fine,  but  rather  stout  damask,  starched  more  or  less,  quite  fresh  and 
nearly  new.  Old  damask,  that  is  soft,  will  not  take  the  more  elaborate  forms. 
Each  serviette,  previous  to  folding  it,  should  be  laid  on  the  ironing-board  damped 
with  (raw)  starch,  smoothed  with  a  hot  iron,  and  immediately  folded  whilst  crisp 
and  steaming.  It  not  only  folds  better,  but  preserves  the  form  longer  by  such 
means;  and  unless  this  is  attended  to  designs  like  "the  Fan,"  "the  Victoria 
Regia,"  "the  Bridal,"  and  "the  Colonne  de  Triomphe,"  could  not  effectually  be 
made.  "The  Boat"  and  "the  Basket"  also  require  very  stiff  serviettes.  The 
serviettes  must  be  exactly  square,  and  pains  taken  to  make  the  sides  perfectly 
even  and  true. 

(5) 


APPENDIX   TO   THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


FOLDING  SERVIETTES. 


THE  ESCUTCHEON. 


B 


Fig.  1.  Fig.  2, 

This  is  one  of  the  easiest  methods  possible  of  ornamentally  folding  a  serviette, 
and  we  recommend  a  novice  to  commence  with  it.  Indeed,  we  have  arranged, 
the  folding  as  progressively  as  possible.  Although  it  will  sit  more  crisp  and  fresh 
in  appearance  if  made  with  a  fine  new  well  starched  material,  the  Escutcheon  can 
^  made  very  well  with  old  or  even  crumpled  damask,  though,  of  course,  servi- 
ettes should  always  be  scrupulously  clean  and  smooth.  First,  fold  the  serviette  in 
half  lengthwise;  and  then  fold  it  in  half  again  lengthwise,  keeping  the  edges  to 
the  lower  end,  which  comes  where  in  the  diagram  A  A  and  B  B  are  marked  (see 
fig.  i).  It  is  necessary  to  be  always  very  precise  in  "making  the  folds,  bringing 
the €dges  and  corners  exactly  to  meet,  a  rule  which  applies  to  all  the  designs; 
but  without  strict  attention  to  which,  the  more  elaborate  patterns  cannot  be 
represented. 

Now  turn  over  each  end  of  the  serviette 
(which  you  have  already  folded  in  four),  in  the 
manner  shown  in  fig.  i,  creasing  it  quite  flat. 
(Then  take  one  of  the  ends  and  roll  it  up  in  the 
manner  shown  in  fig.  2,  from  C  to  D.  Take  the 
other  end,  E,  and  roll  it  in  the  same  way.  It  is  Fig-  4. 
to  be  observed  that  these  rolls  are  brought  exactly  to  meet  (not 
to  overlap)  the  triangle  formed  at  the  top.  It  is,  however, 
necessary  to  remark  that  the  napkin  is  to  be  rolled  in  the 
reverse  way  from  that  apparent  in  the  illustration ;  that  is,  to  be  rolled  under  and 
not  over,  a  difference  which  must  not  be  neglected.  Keep  the  rolls  one  in  each 
hand,  and  with  a  twist  of  the  wrist  bring  over  the  roll  C,  to  the  point  F  (causing 
the  fold  marked  by  the  dotted  line),  and  with  a  twist  of  the  other  wrist  bring  the 
roll  up  to  the  same  point  to  match  it.  Then  lay  it  flat  on  the  table,  the  rolls 
underneath  (see  fig.  3),  and  keeping  them  down  with  the  hand,  raise  the  other 
part  and  shape  it  as  shown  in  fig.  4,  and  slip  the  dinner  roll  in  the  hollow  at  the  back. 


APPENDIX    TO   THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


THE  CHESTNUT   POCKET. 


Fig.  1. 


Fig.  2. 


Fold  the  serviette  in  half  both  ways,  and  open  it  again.  Bring  all  the  corners 
ID  the  centre.  .Turn  it  over  and  again  bring  all  the  corners  to  the  centre.  Turn 
it  back  again  and  slip  the  chestnuts  in  the  four  pockets  to  be  observed  in  fig.  i. 

Fig.  2,  the  Pocket  Serviette,  is  made  in  the  same  way;  but  the  corners  are 
brought  three  times,  instead  of  twice,  to  the  centre,  turning  it  each  time  (see  fig.  2). 

THE   SHIELD. 


,  2, 


Fig.  3. 


The  Shield  is  almost  identical  with  the  Escutheon;  there  is,  however,  a  slight 
difference,  which  forms  a  little  variety  and  practice  in  the  art  of 
napkin-folding. 

First  form  fig.  i,  as  for  the  Escutcheon.  Next  roll  up  the  two 
ends  in  the  manner  shown  in  fig.  2;  that  is,  make  the  rolls  out- 
wardly, not  under  as  in  the  previous  direction.  The  serviette 
will  now  resemble  fig.  3.  Then  set  it  into  form,  and  place 
the  bread  inside.  The  face  of  it  will  stand  perfectly  upright 


and  resemble  figure  4. 


THE  MITRE. 


The  Mitre  is  a  well-known  device,  and  one  which  always  looks  effective 
It  is  not  unlike  the  Crown.  Fold  the  damask  in  half,  and  turn  down  the  two 
corners  to  meet  at  both  ends,  in  the  manner  shown  in  fig.  i,  taking  care  to  let 
them  meet  very  exactly  and  not  overlap.  Fold  it  in  half  at  the  line  A  to  B,  fig. 
i,  to  ascertain  the  centre.  Open  this  last  fold  again  and  bring  the  two  points  to 
the  centre  like  fig.  2.  Fold  these  together  at  the  dotted  line  with  the  points  out- 


APPENDIX   TO   THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


9 


side,  let  down  one  of  these  corners  again,  and  turn  in  the  two  points  A  and  B  also, 
to  make  a  triangle  uniform  with  the  others:  it  will  now  resemble  fig.  3.   Turn  the 


Fig.  3. 


Fig.  1. 


Kg.  2. 


Tig.  4. 


serviette  over;  let  down  the  point  on  that  side:  it  will  then  resemble  fig.  4.     Turn 
in  the  corners  A  and  B,  by  the  line  marked.     Turn  up  the  point  D  to  its  former 


Tig.  5. 


Kg.  6. 


Fig.  1. 


Fig.  2. 


position :  it  will  now  resemble  fig.  5.     Slip  the  hand  inside  the  hollow  to  be  found 
at  the  broad  end,  and  shape  it  like  a  cap,  and  the  Mitre  is  complete. 

THE   CORNUCOPIA. 

Cornucopias  are  easily  folded,  and  very  effective  down  a  long  dinner  table, 
with  a  single  scarlet  geranium  flower  at  the  apex 
of  each.  Halve  the  serviette 
lengthways;  turn  down  the  cor- 
ners at  the  two  ends  to  meet  in 
the  centre  and  form  a  triangle, 
like  fig.  4,  in  the  Crown. 

Take  the  corners  at  the  base  and  bring  them  to  the  apex, 

like  fig.  i.    Then  double  it  together  with  folds  inside:  it  will 

now  appear  like  fig.  2.     At  the  side  marked  A,  there  are 

three  folds.      Set  it  upright  over  the  dinner  roll,  with  two  of  these  folds  one  side 

and  one  on  the  other.     Shape  it  nicely,  keeping  the  space  from  B  to  C  close. 

THE  CROWN. 

This  is  a  handsome  design,  and  is  one  which  requires  very  well  starched 
damask.  The  bread  is  placed  inside,  underneath  the  crown.  Now  that  flowers 
are  so  much  used,  nothing  could  have  a  more  charming  effect  than  a  slight  wreath 
of  flowers  round  the  base  of  it,  at  the  part  marked  A  to  B,  in  fig.  i.  Fig.  2  repre- 
sents the  serviette  laid  on  the  table.  Fold  it  exactly  in  half  from  A  to  B,  open 


Fig.  3. 


10 


APPENDIX   TO   THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


and  fold  the  reverse  way,  from  C  to  D.    Open  it  again.    These  creases  are  merely 
made  to  ascertain  the  true  centre.     As  it  lies,  turn  all  the  points  to  the  centre, 

C  A 


E 


D 

Fig.  1.  Fig.  2.  Tig,  3. 

and  crease  down  in  the  manner  observed  in  fig.  3,  which  forms  a  diamond.    Take 
the  four  corners  of  the  diamond  and  fold  them  to  the  centre  again.    The  serviette 

will   still  preserve  the   shape   shown   in 

diagram   fig.  3,  but  be   smaller  in   size. 

Bring  the  top,  A,  to  the  right  hand,  B, 

and  the  left  hand,  B,  to  the  other,  A;   it 

will  now  resemble  fig.  4.     Fold  down  the 

corners,  E  F  and  G  H,  parallel  to  the  line 

I  J;  it  will  now  resemble  fig.  5.     Put  the 

hand  inside  it  at  the  broad  end,  and  shape 

it  like  a  cap,  over  the  hand,  folding  one  end  into  the  other  as 
shown  at  C,  in  fig.  5.  The  stiffness  of  the  damask  should  be  sufficient  to  keep 
these  last  folds  in  place;  the  corner  fold  should  just  be  turned  one  corner  within 
the  other  as  an  envelope,  and  pinched,  to  secure  its  remaining  firm. 

THE  SCROLL. 


Fig.  4. 


Pig.  2. 


The  Scroll  is  simple  to 
fold.  It  is  represented  com- 
plete (fig.  3).  The  bread  is 
under  the  centre,  on  which 
__  the  name  card  mav  be  laid- 
It  does  not  require  to  be 
stiff.  First  fold  the  serviette  four  times  length- 
ways. Fold  down  one  end  in  the  manner 
shown  at  A,  in  fig.  2.  Then  fold  the  end  A 
completely  across,  forming  the  line,  B  B.  Roll 
up  the  end  A,  and  produce  the  fig.  3.  Treat  the  other  side  in  the  same  way. 
Fig.  3  illustrates  the  process.  The  space  in  the  middle,  A,  fig.  i,  is  closed  over 
the  bread. 


Fig.  3. 


APPENDIX   TO   THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


11 


THE   SLIPPERS. 


Fig.  ir~  FIC.2. 

The  Slippers  are  very  easy  to  make.  Double  the  serviette  four  times  length- 
ways. Then  fold  like  fig.  i.  The  ends  are  simply  rolled,  taking  the  corners  '!.. 
the  method  shown  in  fig.  2;  bring- 
ing them  over  as  shown  in  fig.  3, 


FIG3. 

and  with  another  turn  forming  the  Slip- 
pers (fig.  4).  Secure  the  point  at  A,  with 
the  left  hand,  whilst  rolling  up  the  other 
side;  and  then  hold  both  points  together 
with  the  left  hand  and  place  the  right  in 
the  top  of  the  Slippers,  setting  them  over  the  dinner  roll,  which  should  be  placed 
underneath  at  B,  fig.  4;  and  the  Slippers  pinched  close  together  at  the  top  over 
it.  A  few  flowers  in  the  hollows  of  the  folds  is  a  pretty  addition. 

THE  COCKED   HAT,   OR   BOAT. 


Fig.  ti. 


Fold  a  serviette  in  half  lengthways  (see  fig.  i),  then  in  half 
again  (fig.  2).     Fold  it  lengthways  again,  with  the  edges  inside,  in 
the  way  shown  in  fig.  3.     Fold  it  in  half  lengthways  at  the  dotted   line   with  the 
edges  outside.     Turn  down  the  corners  in  the  manner  explained  bv  fig.  4,  both 
sides  alike;  it  now  resembles  fig.  5.     Turn  in  the  superfluous  end  C,  shown  in 
fig.  4,  inside  the  hat:  this  makes  it  resemble  fig.  6.     Shape  it  with  the  hand  and 
slip  it  over  the  dinner  bread.      If  the  edges  are  left  outside  in  folding  (fig.  3), 
when  finished,  a  space  will  be  offered  at  the  top  wherein  a  few  flowers  may  be 


12 


APPENDIX    TO   THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


placed.  A  Boat  may  also  be  folded  by  this  diagram  by  reversing  its  position  on 
the  plate.  A  still  better  way  to  make  the  Boat  is  to  double  a  serviette  in  half 
lengthways,  and  again  the  reverse  way.  Fold  the  two  edges  to  the  centre:  this 
makes  an  oblong.  Turn  it  over  on  the  other  side.  Turn  two  of  the  corners  to 


Fisr.  3.  IIIIIHM  E.I      Fig.  4.  Fig.  5. 

meet  in  the  centre ;  must  not  be  opposite  corners,  but  both  at  the  right  end. 
Turn  the  two  left  end  corners  half  to  the  middle.  Iron  down.  Then  fold 
the  whole  in  half  lengthways,  having  the  corners  inside.  This  completes  the 
Boat.  Put  the  bread  underneath. 

ANOTHER   BOAT. 


The  Boat  is  exceedingly  pretty,  especially  if  freighted  with  a  few  flowers. 
The  serviette  should  be  well  starched  to  sit  firm  and  sharp,  and  must  be  an  exact 
square.  First  fold  it  in  half  like  a  shawl.  Next  take  the  corner  A  (fig.  i),  and 
bring  it  to  C.  Turn  over  the  serviette  on  the  other  side.  Take  the  corner  B, 
and  bring  it  to  C  in  the  same  way,  but  on  the  other  side:  this  forms  fig.  2.  Fold 


FJG.2* 

fig.  2  in  half  by  the  line  in  the  centre,  bringing  D  to  E,  and  forming  fig.  3.  Fold 
the  point  F  to  H.  Turn  over  the  serviette  and  fold  G  to  H,  on  the  other  side: 
this  produces  fig.  4.  Fold  the  half  of  the  end  J  to  K,  producing  fig.  5.  Fold  L 
to  K,  on  the  other  side.  These  folds  must  be  so  made  as  to  leave  the  upper  part 
of  the  serviette,  which  will  now  again  open  and  look  like  fig.  3,  from  F  to  G. 


Slip  the  hand  inside  here,  round  it  open  a  little,  and  so  bring  F  to  meet  G,  mak- 
ing it  flat  the  reverse  way:  this  is  represented  by  fig.  6.  Turn  down  the  whole 
point  M  to  N,  on  the  thinnest  side,  like  fig.  7.  Slip  in  the  thumbs  at  the  opening 
at  O  in  fig.  7,  and  holding  the  last  fold  firmly  down ;  dexterously  turning  the  Boat 
inside  out:  the  inside  fold  resembles  a  capital  A.  Pinch  the  sides  of  the  A  the 


APPENDIX   TO   THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


13 


other  way,  making  it  an  A  again  ;  and  drawing  out  the  Boat  lengthways.  Shape 
it  a  little  with  the  hand.  The  bread  may  be  slipped  under  the  centre,  A,  or  cabin 
of  the  Boat,  provided  it  is  not  too  large.  A  pretty  addition  to  this  would  be  to 
attach  the  carte  de  menu,  by  the  means  of  a  Chinese  ribbon,  to  a  chip,  spill,  or 
slender  stick,  and  fix  it  in  the  Boat  as  a  sail.  The  name  card  may  also  be  attached 
to  resemble  an  additonal  sail. 

THE   HAMBURG  DRUM. 


The  first  three  folds  are  made  like  those  of  the  Mitre ;  namely,  fold  the 
serviette  in  half  lengthways.  Turn  down  the  corners  like  fig.  i,  fold  it  in  half 
across  the  centre,  inwards,  from  A  to  B,  keeping  the  corners  inside.  It  will  now 


FI&2-  FIS-3.  FIG  A 

resemble  fig.  2.  Fold  it  again  from  C  to  D,  into  the  shape  of  fig.  3.  Let  down 
the  point  E ;  turn  down  the  corners  F  and  G,  to  make  a  triangle  uniform  with  the 
others:  thus  you  have  fig.  4.  Let  down  the  corner  H,  as  shown  in  fig.  5:  this 


FIG. 5.  HG.6.  FJ  .7 

corner  must  be  the  one  that  has  the  selvage  on  the  lower  corner.  Make  the  fold 
by  the  dotted  line  in  fig.  5:  this  produces  fig.  6.  Take  the  upper  fold  at  A  and  B 
in  the  same  diagram,  open  it  back  and  crease  it  down  to  resemble  fig.  7;  turn  the 


14 


APPENDIX   TO   THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


napkin  over.  You  now  have  fig.  8.  Fold  over  the  edges  C  and  D  to  E,  to  match 
the  folds  on  the  other  side.  Turn  up  the  napkin  again ;  turn  up  the  point  C,  a'nd 
bring  the  corners,  E  and  F,  together  likewise.  Slip  the  hand  into  the  hollow  at 
the  base,  as  you  did  for  the  Mitre ;  and  place  over  the  bread. 

THE  HERALDIC  ROSE  AND  STAR. 


FULL 


F1G.3. 


Spread  a  serviette,  full  size,  flat  on  the  table.  It  must  be  a  perfect  square, 
exact  at  the  corners.  Bring  the  four  corners  exactly  to  the  centre,  in  the  way 
described  in  fig.  i.  Take  the  corners  A  and  B,  and  without  turning  the  serviette, 
again  bring  them  to  the  centre,  as  shown  in  fig.  2.  Bring  C  and  D  likewise  to 
the  centre:  this  forms  fig.  3.  Take  one  corner  and  turn  it  under  (not  over  as 
before)  by  the  dotted  line  e  iof;  turn  under  the  other  three  the  same  way.  Then 
again  bring  all  the  four  corners  to  the  centre,  on  the  upper  side,  as  in  fig.  2. 


F1G.4-. 


FI05. 


Afterwards  repeat  turning  all  the  corners  under,  as  in  fig.  3.  Then  once 
more  repeat  fig.  2,  and  bring  the  remaining  corners  to  the  centre,  uppermost. 
Press  the  folds  firmly  down.  Then,  one  at  a  time,  turn  the  corners  half  back> 
shaping  them  like  little  pockets,  by  slipping  the  fingers  in  at  C  (A  to  B,  fig.  4),  and 
forming  the  corners  out  square.  This  makes  the  Rose.  Or  by  turning  it  down 
in  the  same  way,  without  squaring  out  the  corners,  the  Star,  fig.  5,  is  made.  Open 
up  the  eight  petals,  to  be  found  in  the  centre,  and  fit  in  the  dinner  roll. 

THE   MINARETTES. 

The  Minarettes  is  a  design  expressly  originated  for  the  present  work.  It 
requires  to  be  well  stiffened.  Fold  the  napkin  in  half.  Turn  down  the  corners 
as  in  fig.  i  of  the  Mitre.  Fold  in  half  and  turn  in  the  corners  till  you  have  an 
exact  triangle  as  in  the  Mitre  (see  fig.  i).  Then  let  down  the  outer  side  of  the 
triangle.  Fold  the  corners  at  both  sides  by  the  dotted  lines,  A  and  B  (fig.  i). 


APPENDIX   TO   THE    STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


15 


Take  the  outer  pieces,  C  and  D,  and  fold  back  so  as  to  have  two  points  alike. 
Fold  the  lower  end  to  match;  halve  it,  and  you  will  now  have  fig.  2.      Fold  up  at 


FIG.2. 


.  3. 


the  dotted  line.      Pass  the  fold  inside  like  fig.  3.      Bend  over  the  corners  like  fig. 
4,  and  place  the  Minarettes  over  the  roll. 

THE  SHELL. 


The  Shell  requires  a  very  stiff  serviette.  Fold 
the  two  edges  together  in  the  centre,  lengthways, 


as  shown  in  fig.  i.     Fold  in  half  down  the  centre,  also  lengthways,  leaving  the 

edges  outside.     Then  crimp  evenly  in  the  manner  shown  in  fig.  2.     Open  up  the 

top  end,  and  turn  down  the  edges  each   way,  as  they 

appear  in  fig.  3.  Keep  the  lower  ends  together  like  a 

fan.  If  well  donei 
it  can  be  balanced 
on  the  plate  by  the 
ends,  in  the  man- 
ner illustrated  by 
fig.  4. 

THE   FAN. 

The  fan  is  made 

precisely    like    the  Eg*  fi. 

Shell,  only  the  edges  are  not  turned  down ;  but  in  folding,  at  first,  are  kept  inside. 
The  fan  is  placed  in  a  glass,  in  the  way  shown  in  fig.  5. 

It  is,  also,  sometimes  folded  again  before  crimping  three  parts  up.     This 
forms  a  double  Fan,  and  the  lower  one  should  be  pulled  out  a  little  by  the  fingers. 


16 


APPENDIX   TO   THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


THE   ROSETTE   FAN. 

The  Rosette  Fan  is  very  handsome  and  uncommon,  but  difficult  to  make, 
requiring  very  nice  manipulation.  First  fold  the  serviette  in  half,  lengthwavs, 
the  edges  downward.  As  it  lays  on  the  table,  make  it  into  three  equal  folds, 
lengthways.  Then  take  the  upper  fold  between  the  finger  and  thumb,  length- 
ways, and  the  lower  fold  between  the  second  and  third  fingers  of  each  hand. 
Bring  the  lower  fold  up  to  within  an  inch  and  a  half  of  the  fold  left,  and  the  one 
between  the  finger  and  thumb  to  within  an  inch  and  a  half  of  that.  The 
hemmed  edges  ought  to  be  an  inch  and  a  half  below  the  last  of  the  three  plaits 
you  have  now  formed.  Press  them  well  down.  Crimp  as  for  the  Rosette.  Hold 
what  would  be  the  handle  of  the  Fan  well  in  the  left  hand,  and  keep  it  all  close 
together.  Insert  right  through  the  upper  fold  or  plait  the  handle  of  a  silver 
fork,  the  flat  way,  and  when  right  through,  turn  it,  rounding  out  the  plait  like  a 
bullionne  on  a  lady's  dress.  Treat  the  other  two  plaits  in  the  same  way.  Then 
put  the  handle  end  firmly  in  a  glass  and  let  the  top  spread  out.  The  effect  is 
excellent. 

THE  VICTORIA   REGIA. 

This  spirited  design  is  difficult  to  accomplish,  and  requires 
to   be   very    stiff  indeed.      Fold   the   serviette   in    half  twice, 


Fig.  1.  Fig.  2.  Fig.  3. 

lengthways,  keeping  the  hems  to  the  edge.  Then  plait  it  as  the  Shell  was  plaited, 
in  the  way  shown  in  fig.  i.  The  number  of  petals  will  depend  on  the  number  of 
folds,  which  should  be  twice  as  many  as  were  made  for  the  Shell,  the  width  being 
only  half  as  much.  Keep  the  folds  as  close  together  as  possible,  and  begin  form- 
ing the  petals  by  drawing  back  the  first  hem,  as  the  edge  of  the  Shell  was  done. 
Proceed  to  turn  down  the  next  fold  and  make  another  round  of  petals  to  meet  the 
first  ones,  and  finish  by  making  the  last  hem  fold  in  the  same  way  (fig.  2).  Set  it 
round  by  bringing  the  two  edges  of  the  serviette  together.  It  is  not  at  all  easy 
to  set  the  petals  well.  The  bread  is  not  to  be  placed  in  or  under  it;  but  a  single 
flower,  such  as  a  rose,  may  very  properly  be  slipped  into  the  heart.  Fig.  3 
represents  the  Victoria  Regia,  which  should  be  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  plate. 

THE   SWAN. 

The  Swan  is  a  very  simple  fold,  yet  one 
requiring  some  knack  to  produce.  The  servi- 
ette should  be  very  stiff.  Form  a  triangle  by 
folding  it  in  half.  Hold  the  point,  A,  between 
the  teeth;  take  C  and  B  in  each  hand.  Hold 
it  tight  across  the  chest,  so  that  from  A  to  D  it 
FlG.I.  is  strained  tight  against  you.  Roll  up  the  ends 

B  and  C  very  tight,  one  in  each  hand,  in  the  manner  shown  in  fig.  2.  The  reason 
it  is  held  tight  across  the  chest  is  to  keep  it  plain  at  E ;  otherwise  it  would  curl  up 
to  the  top.  Now  bring  the  points  B  and  C  together  (fig.  2).  Bend  over  the  point 


APPENDIX   TO  THE   STEWARD'S   HANDBOOK. 


17 


A  and  shape  the  twisted  pieces  so  as  to  give  the  appearance  of  a  Swan.  Our 
illustration  gives  but  a  rough  notion  of  it,  as  it  is  not  easy  to  delineate  well  on 
paper,  and  at  the  same  time  show  the  way  of  bending  it.  With  a  little  manipula- 


FIG  3. 

tion,  a  very  good  imitation  of  a  Swan  may  be  produced.  The  centre  piece  is  the 
head  and  neck ;  the  twisted  portions  represent  the  outline  of  the  breast,  body 
and  the  legs. 

LORGNETTES. 

Lorgnettes  are  very  ^asy  indeed,  and  are  a  neat  design.     Fold  the  serviette  in 
half  lengthways.     Fold  back  an  inch,  or  an  inch  and  a  half,  at  the  double  end, 


Fig.  1. 

and  bring  it  to  the  centre,  in  the  same  way  observable  in  fig.  £.  Turn  it  over  on 
the  other  side  and  roll  both  ends,  one  at  a  time,  to  the  centre ;  taking  care  to  press 
in  with  the  fingers,  as  it  is  rolled,  the  tendency  to  bag  up;  so  as  to  keep  it  smooth 


FJG2.  E1B.3." 

outside,  and  the  centre  band  tight.     Stand  it  upright.     The  Lorgnettes  do  not 
inclose  the  bread. 

THE   PYRAMID. 

The  Pyramid,  provided  the  napkin  is  very  stiff  and  fine,  is  easily  made. 
Double  it  in  half  one  side  within  an  inch  of  the  other,  so  that  it  may  be  more 
slender  towards  the  point.  Fold  it  in  seven  the  narrow  way,  like  fig.  3,  in  the 
shell.  Press  these  folds" down  with  an  iron;  then  crimp  them  across  with  a  paper 
knife,  folding  it  in  and  out  the  width  of  the  knife.  Lastly,  join  it  round  like  a 
pyramid,  and  stand  it  upright  over  the  bread.  For  a  bride,  or  a  distinguished 
guest,  slender  wreaths  of  flowers  may  be  placed  all  round  in  every  crimping. 


18 


APPENDIX   TO   THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


THE   FLEUR-DE-LYS. 

The  Fleur-de-Ljs  should  be  folded  with  very  stiff  damask,  a  little  damp,  and 
fresh  ironed;   but  may  be  made  with  a  small  light  damask,  without  starch,  by 


B 


Cj 


Rftfc 

using  a  little  pin  at  the  back  of  the  waist,  marked  C  to  D  in  diagram  (fig. 
5).  Rich  heavy  damask  of  a  large  size  is  always  tiresome  to  fold  without  starch' 
although  looking  whiter,  brighter,  and  handsomer  on  table.  Lay  the  serviette 
flat  on  the  table:  fold  it  in  half;  and  in  half  again,  lengthwise;  keeping  the 


\ 


Fie;.  2. 

selvages  all  to  the  top.  Halve  it  the  narrow  way,  A  to  B  (fig.  i).  Merely  make 
the  crease,  and  open  this  last  fold  again :  thus  you  have  the  centre  marked.  Take 

the  ends  E  and  D,  and  fold  them  to  the  centre: 
you  thus  have  an  oblong,  equal  to  two  squares. 
Turn  down  the  corner  E,  and  you  have  a  resem- 
blance to  fig.  2.  Take  the  point  D  in  that  diagram, 
and  bring  it  to  C.  Take  the  point  E  and  turn  it 
under  to  C,  in  the  way  shown  in  fig.  3.  Treat  the 
point  F  in  the  same  manner.  Thus  fig.  4  is  made. 
Double  fig.  4  in  half,  flat  from  A  to  B.  Hold  it 
tight  between  the  thumb  and  finger  at  C  and  D. 
Take  hold  of  the  points  at  A  and  pull  them  out 
to  resemble  the  petals  of  a  Fleur-de-Lys,  like  fig. 
Fig.  5.  5.  Turn  up  the  corners,  E  and  F,  at  right  angles 

to  stand  it  upon,  pinching  the  waist  well  in.  If  not  quite  stiff  enough  to  stand 
alone,  after  being  pinched  a  moment,  place  a  pin  at  the  back  of  the  waist;  but 
pins  are  always  better  avoided. 

THE  ARCHBISHOP'S,  OR   DOUBLE   MITRE. 

The  Archbishop's,  or  Double  Mitre,  is  exceedingly  pretty,  and  may  be  folded 
from  any  serviette.  First  fold  the  linen  in  half,  and  lay  it  flat  on  the  table.  Turn 
down  six  inches  from  the  top.  Fold  down  an  inch  and  a  half  of  this  at  the  edge, 
and  fold  that  over  again ;  the  folds  forming  an  outside  band  like  that  shown  in 


APPENDIX   TO   THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


19 


fig.  i,  from  A  to  B.     Raise  the  ends  A  and  B  in  the  hand,  and  form  the  point  C, 
in  fig.  2,  allowing  the  folds  of  the  linen  to  overlap  a  little.     Smooth  it  down  flat, 

cyfIK 


Pi?.  1. 

without  raising  or  moving  it  from  the  table;    fold  the  lower  end  the  same,  and 
bring  it  up  to  D  E,  in  fig.  3.     Turn  the  fold  D   E,  down 
on  the  right  side,  and  make  another  point  with  it  like 
that  at  C,  in  fig.  2,  but  a  little  lower,  so  as  to  show  the 

top  point  above  it.     Lastly, 

fold  up  the  lower  edge  F  G} 

about  an  inch  and  a  half,  to 

form  the  band  of  the  Mitre. 

Bring  the  two  ends  F  and  G, 

round  to  the  back,  to  make 

the  shape  of  a  cap,  and  in- 
sert one   in    the   other.      If 

large  enough,  fix  it  over  the 

dinner  roll.     If  not,  set  it  on 


Fig.  3. 

the  table,  and  place  the  roll  upright  in  the  hollow. 
guest, 

THE   BREAD   BASKET. 


The  front  should  face  the 


Turn  down  the  corners  in  the 


Fold  the  serviette  four  times  lengthways, 
way  observed  in  fig.  i.    Make  C 

the     three      standing     folds  £ 
across  the  centre,  the  middle 
one  to  project,   C  and  D  to 
bend  inwards.     This  makes 


a.  hill  or  ridge  in  the  centre. 
Fold  back  each  corner  at  the 
dotted  lines  F  and  C.  Now 
hold  it  erect  like  fig.  2.  Pinch 
it  up  together  in  a  flat  line. 

Make  a  circle  of  it  by  bringing  the  ends  together  and  inserting  B  in  A.      Place  it 

round  the  bread. 


20 


APPENDIX   TO   THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


THE   FLOWER   BASKET. 

Take  a  very  stiff  square  of  damask,  and  fold  it  exactly  in  half.  Open  and 
fold  in  half  the  reverse  way.  The  centre  is  now  ascertained. 
Fold  all  the  corners  very  exactly  to  the  centre.  Iron  them 


Eg.l.  Fig.  o.  Jig.  8. 

down ;  turn  over,  and  again  turn  the  corners  to  the  centre.  Turn  the  serviette 
over  again  and  take  each  corner  from  the  centre,  and  fold  it  back  at  the  half. 
Then  crease  it  from  A  to  B  (fig.  i),  open  the  crease,  and  fold  it  again  from  C 
to  D.  Take  it  in  the  hand  and  bring  the  crease  A  to  C,  and  C  to  B,  and  so  all 
round.  This  will  enable  you  to  make  it  stand.  Hold  the  apex  between  the 


Fig.  4. 


fingers  of  one  hand  and  square  out  the  four  sides.     This  makes  it  resemble  fig.  2, 
and  completes  it.      A  few  flowers  should  be  arranged  in  the  compartments.      For 


variety  the  corners  may  be  left  upright,  like  fig.  3 
fig.  4,  a  different  design  is  obtained. 


By  reversing  it,  as  shown  in 


k 


THE  IMPERIAL  CROWN. 

The  Imperial  Crown  requires  very  stiff  damask — an  exact  square  is  best, — and 
either  a  very  small  serviette,  or  a  very  large  one 
folded  in  four,  to  reduce  it  to  a  quarter  its  size. 
Lay  it  flat  on  the  table:  fold  the  end,  A  B,  over  to 
the  dotted  line  in  the  centre,  C  D.  Do  the  same 
the  other  side, 
bringing  E  F  to 
C  D.  Then  place 
the  end,  A  B,  in 
three  folds,  as  for 
a  fan,  the  whole 
length  of  the 
Flfi.l.  damask,  and 


F1C.2. 
crease  them  down,  making  the  folds  exactly  use  the  piece  between  A  B,  and  the 


APPENDIX   TO   THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


21 


fold  at  g,  h.  Then  fold  the  end,  E  F,  to  match.  Then  bring  the  folded  ends, 
A  B,  to  the  centre,  _/,  crossing  the  folded  part  of  one  over  the  other  where 
they  meet.  The  serviette  will  now  look  like  fig.  2.  Turn 
the  fold,  E  F,  to  the  back  and  fold  down.  Next  bring  the 
corner  E,  by  the  dotted  line  K  L,  completely  across,  like 
fig.  3;  the  end  N  is  to  be  level  with  the  end  E.  The  end  N 

is  then  to  be  crossed  over  to  match, 

and  the  end  of  the  band  inserted 

in  the  folds  of  the  other,  so  as  to 

hold  firmly  together.    Put  the  hand 

inside   and    shape   it.      When   set 

over  the  dinner  roll  it  will  stand 

firm.     It  should  be  a  full-sized  roll 

The  front  of  the  hat  should   face 

the  guest.      If  the  carte  de  menu  is 

not  too  large,  it  may  be  placed  in 


FI0.3. 


FIG  .4. 


the  plaited  fold  at  N,  before  crossing  the  ends  over. 

THE    DOUBLE    HORN   OF    PLENTY. 
This  requires  a  stiff  serviette,  damp  and  fresh  ironed.      It  may,  however,  be 


Fig.l.  Fig.  2. 

made  from  a  limp  one,  if  a  small  pin  is  inserted  at  each  side,  after  the  last  fold. 

Lay  the  serviette  flat  on  the  table;  fold  in  four  lengthwise,  keeping  all  the  sel- 
vages one  way.  Turn  the  two  ends  to 
meet  in  the  centre.  Turn  that  over,  and 
turn  down  two  corners  not  at  the  selvage 
edge,  at  the  lines  A  to  B,  and  C  to  D. 
Turn  it  over  and  it  will  resemble  fig.  i. 
Take  the  end  C,  and  roll  it  over  to  D 
(see  fig.  2).  Bring  A  to  B  in  the  same 
manner,  and  complete  the  design.  It  is 
most  suitable  for  a  Christinas  dinner 
party,  when  it  may  be  filled  with  holly 
or  any  bright  flowers;  or  one  space  may 

be  filled  with  holly  and  the  other  with  grapes,  almonds,  raisins,  &c.,  to  represent 

plenty  (see  fig.  3).     Pinch  the  horns  down  and  hold  them  a  minute,  to  make  them 

preserve  their  shape. 

THE   COLONNE   DE   TRIOMPHE. 

This  is  difficult  to  fold,  although  it  may  be  done  with  a  soft  damask.  Starch 
is,  however,  an  improvement.  The  secret  of  success  depends  entirely  on  rolling 
it  very  lightly.  Lay  the  serviette  flat  on  the  table.  From  A  to  B  (fig.  i),  fold 


Fig.  3. 


22 


APPENDIX   TO   THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


down  about  six  inches,  if  it  is  a  large  serviette.     After  trying  the  fold  once,  by 


FICil. 


FIQ.2. 


reference  to  the  illustration,  it  will  be  seen  if  the  proportion  is  properly  kept. 
The  one  which  we  have  just  folded  ourselves,  as  a  model,  stands  fifteen  inches 


FIE.3. 


Rfi/H 


high,  eleven  for  the  shaft  of  the  column,  and  it  is  very  erect  and  firm,  although 

made  of  limp  damask.      Fold  the  damask  in  half  from  C  to 

D  (fig.  i),  to  ascertain  the  half.     In  the  left  hand  nip  up  the 

corner  E,  as  shown  in  the  illustration;  the  centre  C  and  the 

corner  G  in  the  same  way,  like  fig.  2,  shaping  them  into 

laurel  leaves.     Then  pleat  down  the  serviette,  holding  the 

top  still  in  the  hand,  in  the  way  described  in  fig.  3.     Next 

take  the  end  H  (fig.  2),  that  is,  the  left  hand  lower  corner, 

and  pass  it  completely  round  the   serviette  to  the   right, 

bringing  the  selvage  tight  round  from  A  to  B  in  fig.  3.    Lay 

it  on  the  table,  holding  the  neck  at  E  grasped  in  the  hand, 

at  first;  and  tucking  down  and  keeping  tight  the  folds  from 

C  to  D  (fig.  4),  whilst  rolling  over  the  end  E  to  F,  as  tightly 

as  possible,  umbrella  wise;  pressing  it  on  the  table  as  \ou 

roll  it  up,  to  keep  it  firm.      Fasten  the  end  with  a  little  pin. 

Then  firmly  tuck  in  the  odd  corners  at  the  base,  in  the  wav 

half  a  pound  of  sugar  or  an  ounce  of  almonds  are  turned 

in.     Twine  a  wreath  of  flowers  around  it.      The  artificial  wreaths  of  small  roses 

or  holly,  sold  at  the  grocers',  are  pretty  for  the  purpose.     Set  it  upright,  and  with 

a  little  manipulation  it  will  sit  firm  in  the  plate. 

THE   TULIP. 

The  Tulip  requires  a  very  stiff    material.      The  folds  are  very  simple,  but 
require  nicety  of  fingering  and  pressure  with  a  hot  iron.       Bring  all  the  corners 


FJG.5. 


APPENDIX   TO  THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


23 


to  the  centre,  as  for  the  Crown.      Bring  the  corners  down  to  the  centre  again  and 
again;  in  all  five  times.      Press  it  well.      Finish  all  the  serviettes  to  be  folded 


so  far,  and  then  recommence  with  the  first  by  turning  down  all  the  corners  one 
by  one,  to  form  the  Tulip  petals,  which  should  hang  down  in  long  points,  like  a 
dog's  ears.  Place  the  Tulip  on  a  glass. 

THE  BRIDAL  SERVIETTE. 

The  Bridal  Serviette  is  almost  identical  with  the  Pyramid,  and  is  so  called 

because  it  is  a  favorite  for  wedding 
breakfasts.  At  the  top  it  is  to  be 
decorated  with  a  few  flowers.  For 


B 


FIB.I.  FIG2. 

the  bride,  stephanotis,  white  roses,  or  any  white  flowers  available,  mixed  with  a 
little  orange  blossom.  For  the  other  guests,  scarlet  flowers.  The  serviette  must 
be  very  stiff  and  damp  from  fresh  iron- 
ing. Lay  it  on  the  table  flat.  Fold  it  not 
in  half,  but  within  an  inch  and  a  half  of 
the  top  (see  fig.  i).  Take  the  corners  A 
and  B,  and  fold  them  to  C  and  D  again, 
within  an  inch  and  a  half  of  the  last  fold, 
and  like  the  last  fold  flat  and  straight 
across.  This  produces  fig.  2.  Again  take 
the  ends  E  and  F  and  fold  over  to  G  and 
H,  within  an  inch  and  a  half  of  the  last 
fold.  This  will  probably  about  halve  the 
remaining  piece;  but  that  will  depend 
on  the  size  of  the  serviette.  Then  fold 
it  the  narrow  way,  backwards  and  for- 
wards, as  for  a  fan,  nine  times,  creasing 
it  firmly  down.  Opening  it  as  little  as  possible,  turn  down  all  the  tops  of  the 
folds  in  the  way  noticed  in  fig.  3,  beginning  at  the  top  6f  the  three  tiers.  Then 
join  it  round,  fixing  the  first  fold  over  the  last,  and  pinch  it  together  at  the  top. 


F1G.3. 


APPENDIX   TO   THE   STEWARD'S    HANDBOOK. 


THE   PRINCE   OF  WALES'S   FEATHER. 

The  Prince  of  Wales's  Feather  is  a  perfectly  new  design,  invented  especially 
for  the  present  work.  It  is  simple  in  effect  and  very  handsome  in  appearance. 
It  requires  a  very  stiff  crisp  serviette.  Lay  the  damask  on  the  table,  ironing  it 


Fie.i. 


FIG.3, 


FIG.  2. 

damp.  Fold  it  from  fig.  2  in  the  Crown,  from  A  to  B,  using  the  hot  iron  to 
crease  it.  Without  disturbing  this  fold,  crease  in  half  again  the  reverse  way, 
from  C  to  D,  thus  reducing  the  size  to  a  quarter.  Smooth  it  with  the  iron.  Next 
fold  this  in  half  diagonally,  like  fig.  4  in  the  Crown.  Observe  fig.  4,  in  the 


FIGA 


F1Q.5 


Fine: B 

illustrations  on  the  present  page,  carefully.  Fold  it  in  half  from  A  to  B, 
using  the  iron;  this  will  produce  fig.  2.  Make  the  fold  C  to  B,  on  one  side 
only,  in  the  manner  shown  in  fig.  3.  Then  fold  it  back  again  at  the  dotted 
line  D,  and  it  will  resemble  fig.  4.  Fold  the  other  side  to  match,  always  using 
the  iron  to  press  every  fold.  Open  it  and  it  will  resemble  fig.  5,  with  the  folds  A, 
C,.  D.  Make  the  folds,  E,  as  shown  in  fig.  5,  taking  care  not  to  flatten  the  other 
fo  ds,  leaving  the  serviette 

only   just   open    enough    to 

make  the  folds,  E,  each  side. 

It    now     resembles     fig.    6. 

Bring    the    last     two     folds 

quite  flat  and   inside  C  and 

D,  and  it  will  resemble  fig.  7. 

Treat    the    other     side    the 

same,   and   then    fold   it   in 

half  in  the  middle,  A,  and  it 

will   resemble   fig.   8.     Now 

allow  it  to  open  a  little  and 

hold  it  by  the  apex,  B,  fig.  9. 

Keep  it  very  much  indented  Fig.  10. 

in  the  centre  (A  to  B);  bring  the  wings  or  side  feathers  rather  forward,  and  curl 
over  the  three  tips  of  the  feathers  by  bending  them  with  the  fingers.  'Place  it 
upright  in  a  wine  glass  or  a  slender  single  flower  glass  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
Fan  is  olaced.  Fig.  10  shows  the  Prince  of  Wales's  Feather  complete. 


FJQ*. 


FJ6.9. 


APPENDIX  TO  THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


25 


THE  ARROW  HEAD. 

Fold  the  napkin  in  half  lengthwise  to  the  right,  and  turn  down  top  edge  A  A 
by  dotted  line  X  X  to  centre  line  C  C;  repeat  the  same  with  bottom  edge  B  B  by 
dotted  line  O  O  to  centre  line  C  C,  as  shown  in  fig.  i ;  it  w  ill  then 
appear  like  fig.  2.     Next  proceed  to  fold  in  half  towards  you  by 


Fig.  1.  ' 


Fig.  2. 


Fig.  3. 


turning  down  top  edge  D  D  by  centre  line  C  C  to  bottom  edge  E  E,  which  makes 
it  resemble  fig.  3.  In  this  figure  lift  up  the  edge  F  F  at  bottom,  and  bring  the 
right-hand  top  corner  C,  tucking  it  under  edge  held  up  by  left  hand  until  it  comes 
level  with  centre  line  X  X  ;  repeat  the  same  with  left-hand  top  corner  C,  bring  it 
underneath  bottom  edge  F  F,  which  must  now  be  held  up  by  right  hand  until  the 
corner  C  comes  level  with  centre  line  X  X,  and  level  with  the  right-hand  corner 
previously  tucked  underneath;  it  will  then  form  fig.  4.  Now  fix  it  upon  the  bottom 


Fig.  4. 


Fig.  5. 


edge  A  A,  open  out  the  sides  right  and  left  at  B  and  C  equal  distances  all  round. 
It  is  then  finished  as  seen  in  fig.  5.  Dinner  rolls  can  be  placed  in  any  of  the 
recesses. 

THE  MENU  HOLDER. 

Fold  the  napkin  into  three  parts  lenghtwise,  as  seen  in  fig.  i,  then  take  the 
right-hand  end  A  A  and  fold  in  to  the  centre  marked  X  X;  repeat  the  same  with 
left  hand  B  B  to  the  centre  line  X  X,  depicted  in  first  fig.;  it  then  forms  fig.  2.  In 
this  diagram  turn  down  the  right-hand  top  corner  C  to  centre  X  X,  repeat  the 


Fig.  1. 


Fig.  2. 


Fig.  3. 


same  by  turning  up  the  left-hand  bottom  corner  D  by  dotted  line;  turn  the  whole 
over,  keeping  the  points  right  and  left  of  you,  as  seen  in  fig.  3.  In  this  diagram 
turn  down  top  edge  A  A  to  bottom  edge  B  B,  at  the  same  time  giving  the  left-hand 


26 


APPENDIX  TO  THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK. 


corner  a  lift  upwards,  so  as  to  allow  the  underneath  point  to  appear;  it  will  then 
resemble  fig.  4.  Proceed  now  by  turning  the  right-hand  corner  A  by  dotted  line 
X  X,  lifting  with  the  left  hand  the  uppermost  point  marked  E,  and  put  the  right- 
hand-corner  under  it;  turn  the  napkin  over  to  the  left,  and  repeat  the  same  with 
another  corner  B,  which  appears  to  the  right  hand  by  dotted  line  X  X ;  tuck  this 
between  the  edges  at  C,  crease  the  whole  well,  then  open  bot- 
tom edges  and  fix  up,  pressing  the  centre  part  down,  where  the 
dinner  roll  or  a  piece  of  bread  may  be  put  or  underneath  or 


Fig.  4.  Fig.  5.  Fig.  6. 

the  menus  can  set  in  on  top,  and  you  nave  this  pattern  finished  as  seen  in  fig.  6 

MERCURY'S  CAP. 

Commence  this  design  by  opening  out  the  napkin  with  points  to  and  from  and 
right;  and  turn  down  all  the  corners  to  the  centre,  thus  reducing  the  square 
smaller,  turn  the  napkin  over  to  the  right,  keeping  the  points  in  the  same  places 
as  at  commencement;  it  then  appears  like  fig.  i,  except  that  the  points  are  all 
underneath.  Next  turn  up  the  point  nearest  you  marked  A  by  dotted  line  to  B. 


Fig.  1. 


Fig.  3. 


You  now  get  fig.  2;  and  in  this  figure  turn  down  the  uppermost  of  the  two  top 
corners  marked  A  by  dotted  line  seen  about  three  parts  down  shown  in  diagram; 
it  then  forms  fig.  3.  Turn  the  napkin  over  to  the  right.  You  then  get  a  similar 
figure  to  last.  Turn  down  the  top  point  A  to  bottom  point  B,  and  it  forms  fig.  4. 
Now  turn  the  napkin  over  towards  you,  and  the  points  will  then  be  a  top  like 
fig.  5.  In  this  figure  all  that  remains  to  do  is  to  turn  down  the  uppermost  top 


Fig.  4. 


Fig.  5. 


corner,  and  turn  the    right-hand    corner    B    underneath    by    dotted   line    until   it 
reaches  centre  of  points.     Put  back  the  point  just  turned  down  from  top.     You 


APPENDIX  TO  THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK.  27 

then  still  have  two  points  at  top.  Turn  the  napkin  over  to  the  right,  and  do  the 
same  with  the  other  corner,  which  is  now  to  the  right  hand,  by  tucking  it  under- 
neath the  uppermost  top  corner;  and  the  Cap  is  complete  by  setting  it  up  like 
fig.  6,  showing  it  finished. 

THE  SAIL  BOAT. 


In  commencing  this  beautiful  fold,  you  must  open  a  napkin  out  square  in  front 
of  you,  and  turn  down  top  edge  by  the  middle  until  it  reaches  the  bottom  edge 
near  you,  then  take  the  left  side  A  A  in  fig.  i  over  to  right  side  B  B  by  dotted 
line  X  X;  you  then  still  have  a  square  napkin  as  at  commencement,  only  a  re- 


Fig.  2. 


Fig.  3. 


Fig.  4. 


duced  size.  The  four  points  of  the  napkin  are  now  at  right-hand  bottom  corner, 
which  points  must  be  moved  pointing  directly  towards  you,  as  depicted  in  fig.  2: 
and  in  this  diagram  fold  the  napkin  in  half,  taking  the  part  marked  A  near  you  to 
top  corner  B  by  dotted  line  X  X,  when  it  will  then  resemble  fig.  3.  Proceed  to 
turn  the  right-hand  side  by  dotted  line  to  centre  X  X,  and  repeat  the  same  with 
the  left  hand;  you  then  get  fig.  4.  Turn  the  whole  over,  and  turn  up  the  bottom 
points  A  A  by  line  X  X  in  fig.  5,  and  close  it  like  a  book  by  the  centre,  and  you 
then  get  fig.  6.  If  you  look  carefully  at  the  top  corners  of  this  diagram  you  will 


Fig.  6. 


Fig.  7. 


see  there  are  four  points,  indicated  by  the  figures  i,  2,  3,  4.  Turn  the  napkin  on 
the  edges  on  left  side  of  fig.  6  marked  A  A,  or  hold  the  napkin  by  the  same  edges 
in  the  left  hand,  and  commence  to  pull  up  the  points,  with  No.  i,  continuing  with 
the  other  numbers  until  they  are  all  standing  up,  as  seen  in  fig.  7;  those  points 
give  the  appearance  of  sails.  The  yacht  is  then  finished,  and  a  little  manipulation 
•with  the  fingers  and  these  points  can  be  made  to  have  a  very  pretty  effect. 


APPENDIX  TO  THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK 


HOTEL  NAPKIN  FOLDING. 


AN  ART  WORTH  MORE  THAN  FOREIGN  LANGUAGES. 

The  art  of  folding  napkins  is  the  most  valuable  accomplishment  a  waiter  can 
acquire.  There  are  some  who  contend  that  a  waiter  cannot  be  considered  completely 
equipped  for  his  profession  without  knowledge  of  several  languages ;  still  it  must 
be  owned  this  knowledge  of  various  tongues  is  only  useful  in  the  city  restaurants 
frequented  by  strangers  to  the  country  while  a  waiter  may  spend  his  life  in  good 
hotels  where  linguistic  accomplishments  are  never  c  ailed  into  play.  Not  so 
however,  with  the  art  of  folding  napkins.  It  is  needed  everywhere.  There  is 
nothing  a  waiter  can  do  that  is  at  once  so  interesting  and  so  quickly  proves  him 
to  be  what  he  says  he  is,  a  man  who  understands  his  business.  There  is  nothing 
he  can  do,  if  a  stranger  in  a  strange  place  that  will  so  quickly  give  him  introductions 
and  acquaintance  as  to  take  a  dozen  sheets  of  stiff  white  paper  and  with  them  instead 
of  napkins  execute  the  finer  patterns  shown  in  this  book  and  set  them  up  for 
display.  They  attract  attention  at  once  and  prove  better  than  a  letter  of  introduction 
for  a  young  man  seeking  employment,  and,  fortunately,  this  useful  art  is  far  easier 
to  learn  than  a  foreign  language. 

NAPKIN  FOLDING  TO  MAKE  MONEY. 

In  our  talk  about  waiters  it  is  several  times  mentioned  that  there  are  w  hat  are 
called  good  tables  to  which  the  best  or  most  deserving  waiters  are  allotted.  In 
the  case  of  a  Paris  cafe  it  is  shown  that  these  best  tables  are  only  reached  bv  slow 
promotions  and  delinquent  or  absentee  Avaiters  are  invariably  placed  at  the  bottom 
or  worst  tables  when  they  return  to  work  and  have  to  progress  to  the  better  places 
slowly.  The  meaning  of  good  tables  is  that  they  are  occupied  by  guests  who  pay 
their  waiter  well ;  the  worst  tables  are  those  frequented  by,  let  us  say,  "dead-heads,"' 
or  by  some  sort  of  customers  of  whom  little  or  nothing  is  to  be  expected.  It  is 
precisely  the  same  in  our  hotels  and  perhaps  most  markedly  the  case  in  pleasufe 
resorts  where  families  take  up  their  summer  or  winter  residence,  occupy  the  same 
tables  through  the  season  and  pay  their  waiter  well.  The  headwaiter  gives  such 
tables  as  favors  to  the  waiters  he  likes  the  best,  and  if  he  does  not  like  a  waiter  he 
can  keep  him  down  to  a  table  where  he  cannot  make  a  dollar.  The  best  way  a 
waiter  can  help  himself  and  make  it  so  the  headwaiter  cannot  afford  to  keep  him 
down  is  to  learn  to  be  a  boss  napkin  folder;  if  he  is  the  best  folder  in  the  dining 
room  he  has  a  big  advantage;  he  will  be  always  needed,  and  needed  at  the  best 
tables.  Perhaps  the  reason  of  this  is  not  plain  to  all,  it  is  because  the  best  guests 
expect  all  sorts  of  elegant  little  attentions  and  must  not  see  the  next  table  to  them 
faring  better  than  they.  The  waiter  brings  in  various  things  upon  folded  napkins 
and  if  he  could  not  produce  ornamental  effects  that  way  he  could  not  be  in  such 
a  position.  When,  for  example,  he  brings  in  the  various  cut  cakes,  macaroons 
and  bonbons,  he  provides  himself  with,  say,  the  "Chestnut  Pocket"  on  page  8  or 
the  "Heraldic  Rose"  and  cross,  page  14,  not  caring  for  the  cross  but  opening  up  the 
pockets  and  filling  them  with  the  handsomest  and  most  delicate  confections  he 
can  obtain  at  the  pantry  or  fruit  room.  The  cheese  and  crackers  he  brings  in 


APPENDIX  TO  THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK.  29 

another  pattern;  the  table  he  has  already  furnished  with  such  a  pattern  at  each 
plate  as  the  "Flower  Basket,"  page  20,  or  what  not,  while  his  rival  at  the  next  table 
may  be  trying  himself  to  do  something  still  better  These  attentions  are  practiced 
by  the  waiters  because  it  pays  them  to  do  so;  the  people  at  the  good  tables 
appreciate  them,  and  moreover,  they  expect  them  and  the  head  waiter  is  obliged  to 
find  waiters  who  can  meet  these  expectations.  Some  of  the  handsomest  folds  are 
cabable  of -many  changes;  the  "Heraldic  Rose"  when  opened  up  is  known  as  the 
"Boston  Fold,"  the  "Flower  Basket"  with  the  points  up  is  known  as  the  "Saratago 
Fold,"  but  several  of  tnese  might  as  well  be  called  the  "Tip  Catcher,"  the  "Re- 
member Me,"  the  "Christmas  Gift  Collector,"  etc. 

NAPKIN  FOLDING  FOR  EFFECT. 

Napkins  there  must  be  at  every  dinner  in  every  hotel  of  the  least  pretensions 
to  elegance  and  it  is  a  waste  of  a  grand  advantage  not  to  make  use  of  them  for 
ornamental  effects  by  employing  the  more  imposing  forms  of  folding  them  for 
setting  on  the  table  in  readiness  for  the  dinner.  The  use  of  the  napkin  to  hold 
the  dinner  roll  or  piece  of  bread  is  a  fashion  of  private  table-setting  and  for  caterers 
for  private  parties,  but  the  piece  of  bread  to  each  plate  is  not  a  hotel  custom,  ft  is 
not  suitable.  The  flat  folds  of  napkins  instead  are  used  as  above  named  to  bring 
pretty  things  to  table  in  and  to  hold  buttonhole  boquets  or  the  menu.  Where  the 
napkin  and  the  art  of  folding  shows  up  the  grandest  is  in  the  hotel  dining  room 
with  its  fifty  tables,  its  hundreds  of  plates,  its  long  white  rows  of  Pyramids,  Ham- 
burg Drums,  Tulips,  Palm  Leaves  ,  Double  Fans;  Columns,  Crowns,  Mitres,  any 
of  them,  the  taller  the  better,  all  alike,  of  course,  on  each  day  but  changed  in  form 
every  day.  That  indeed  is  a  sight  that  is  pleasing  alike  to  hotel  man  and  guest 
and  for  good  reason ;  it  is  a  scene  of  real  beauty  and  symmetry  of  forms  and 
distances,  pleasing  by  its  whiteness  and  intimation  of  cleanlines  and  purity.  It  is 
something  much  too  ornamental  and  satisfactory  to  be  lost  to  a  dining  room  for 
Avant  of  a  knowledge  how  to  fold  napkins. 

THE  WAY  TO  LEARN. 

Learn  the  folds  by  using  good  stiff  white  paper,  the  size  is  of  but  little  conse- 
quence. The  apparent  difficulty  of  following  the  diagrams 
and  directions  vanishes  after  one  trial,  and  when  the  folds 
have  been  carried  out  with  a  sheet  of  paper  a  stiff  napkin 
can  be  tried  with  a  better  chance  of  immediate  success. 
Some  of  the  forms  which  require  a  hot  iron  for  every  fold 
are  hardly  practicable  for  use  in  hotels  except  for  special 
party  occasions,  but  there  are  plenty  of  easy  forms  that  do 
not  consume  much  time  and  some  of  them  produce  as  good 
effects  in  ornamenting  the  dining  room  as  the  most  difficult  The  Excursionist 
shapes  could  do.  Take  this  simplest  of  all  for  example,  and  look  down  a  long 
dining  room  with  this  pattern  set  at  every  plate.  The  waiters  on  watch  can  roll 
vo  enough  of  these  without  calling  on  the  off  watch  for  help;  but  the  finer 
can  be  brought  in  on  Sundavs. 


HOTEL  COOK  BOOKS. 

No.  l.-"THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK." 

(SEVENTH  EDITION.) 

IFIEaiaiE,    :E»OST:F-A_i:D,    S2.OO. 

EMBRACES  THE  FOLLOWING: 
PART   FIRST— The  Hotel   Book  of  Pine  Pastries,  Ices,   Pies,   Patties,  Cake*,   Cream*,   CasOrta. 

Charlottes,  Jellies  and  Sweet  Entrements  in  Variety. 
PART  SECOND -The  Hotel  Book  of  Puddings,  Souffles  and  Meringues.    A  handy  Collection  oi 

Valuable  Recipes,  original,  selected  and  perfected  for  use  in  Hotels  and  Eating  House* 

of  every  Grade. 
PART   THIRD— The  Hotel  Book  of  Breads  and  Cakes;  French,   Vienna,  Parker  House,  and  other 

.lolls,  Muffins,  Waffles,  Tea  Cakes;    Stock  Yeast  and  Ferment;  Yeast  raised  Cakes, 

etc.,  etc.,  as  made  in  the  best  hotels. 
PART    FOURTH— The  Hotel  Book  of  Salads  and  Cold  Dishes,  Salad  Dressings,  with  and  without 

oil;  Salads  of  all  kinds,  how  to  make  and  how  to  serve  them;  Boned  Fowls,  Galantines, 

Aspics,  etc.,  etc. 

The  above  parts  are  all  comprised  in  the  "  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK,"  together  with 
a  large  amount  of  valuable  miscellaneous  culinary  matter. 


No.  2.-"  HOTEL  MEAT  COOKING." 

(SIXTH  EDITION.) 

IFZRIOE!,   IFOSTIP.A.IID,    $2.OO. 

EMBRACES  THE  FOLLOWING: 
PART   FIRST— The  Hotel,  Fish  and  Oyster  Book;  Showing-all  the  best  methods  of  Cooking  Oyrten 

and  Fish,  for  Restaurant  and  Hotel  Service,  tog-ether  with  the  appropriate  Sauces  tod 

Vegetables. 
PART   SECOND— How  to  Cut  Meats,  and  Roast,  Boil  and  Broil.    The  entire  trade  of  the  Hotel 

Meat  Cutter,  Roaster  and  Broiler,  including1  "  Short  Orders,"  Omelets,  etc. 
PART   THIRD — The  Hotel  Books  of  Soups  ana  Entrees,  comprising  specimens  of  French,  English, 

and  American  Afemu,  with  translations  and  comments.      Showing1  how  to  make  up 

Hotel  Bills  of  Fare,  with  all  the  different  varieties  of  Soups  and  Consommes  in  proper 

rotation,  and  a  new  set  of  entrees  or  "  made  dishes"  for  every  day. 
PART    FOU  RT  H— Creole  Cookery  and  Winter  Resort  Specialties. 
PART   FIFTH— Cooks'  Scrap  Book— A  Collection  of  Culinary  Stories,  Poems,  Stray  Recipes,  etc.,  etc. 

Index  of  French  Terms,  an  explanation  and  translation  of  all  the  French  terms  used  in 

the  Book,  alphabetically  arranged. 

Hf  The  above  parts  are  all  comprised  in  "  HOTEL  MEAT  COOKING,"  together  with  a 
large  and  varied  selection  of  matter  pertaining  to  this  part  of  the  culinary  art. 


No.  3.-"WHITEHEAD'S  FAMILY  COOK  BOOK." 

IFIE^T-OIE,    ^OSTDP.A.T.ID,    S1-5O. 
A  PROFESSIONAL  COOK'S  BOOK  FOR  HOUSEHOLD  USB. 

Consisting  of  a  series  of  Menus  for  every-day  meals,  and  for  private  entertainments, 
with  minute  instructions  for  making  every  article  named. 


The  Recipes  in  all  these  books  are  properly  headed,  numbered  and  indexed,  for 

nandy  reference. 

The  author  of  this  series  of  Hotel  Cook  Books  is  a  professional  Cook  of  Thirty 
Years'  experience,  and  every  recipe  has  been  tried  and  practically  proved. 

The  above  books  will  be  sent  postpaid  on  receipt  of  price:  "  American  Pastry  Cook," 
$ax»;  "Hotel  Meat  Cooking,"  $2.00;  "Family  Cook  Book,"  $1.50. 

Address  all  orders  to 

Jessup  H^hitehead  &  Co., 

PUBLISHERS  OF  HOTEL  COOK  BOOKS, 

CHICAGO,  ILL 


3STO-    4. 

The  Famous  California  Book  of  COOKING,  STEWARDING,  CATERING, 
and  HOTEL  KEEPING,  called 

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AND  EIGHT  WEEKS  AT  A  SUMMER  RESORT. 

Two  Books  in  One.    About  4OO  Pages. 

A  Remarkable  Volume  which  shows  how  Money  is  made  by  Boarding  People  and  What  it 

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THIRD  EDITION.          -          -          PRICE,  S3.OO. 

FOR  SALE   BY 


JESSUP  WHITEHEAD  &  CO. 


CHICAGO,  ILL. 


PART  FIRST — Some  Articles  for  the  Show  Case.  The  Lunch  Counter.  Restaurant  Breakfasts, 
Lunches  and  Dinners.  Hotel  Breakfasts,  Dinners  and  Suppers.  Oyster  and  Fish  House  Dishes. 
The  Ice  Cream  Saloon.  Fine  Bakery  Lunch.  Quaker  Dairy  Lunch.  Confectionery  Goods, 
Homen.ade  Beers,  etc. 

PART  SECOND — Eight  Weeks  at  a  Summer  Resort.  A  Diary.  Our  daily  Bill  of  Fare  and 
•what  it  costs.  A  Party  Supper  for  Forty  Cents  per  Plate.  The  Art  of  Charging  Enough.  A 
School  Commencement  Supper.  Question  of  How  Many  Fires.  Seven  Fires  for  fifty  persons  vs. 
one  Fire  for  fifty.  The  Round  of  Beef  for  Steak.  A  Meat  Block  and  Utensils.  Bill  of  Groceries. 
A  MontKs  Supply  for  a  Summer  Boarding  House,  -with  Prices  A  Refrigerator  Wanted.  About 
keeping  Provisions;  Restaurant  Patterns.  A  Good  Hotel  Refrigerator.  Cost  of  Ice  to  stiffly  it. 
Shall  we  have  a  Bill  of  Fare?  Reasons  -wny  :  a  Blank  Form.  Is  Fish  Cheaper  than  Meat? 
Trouble  with  the  Coffee.  How  to  Scrub  the  Kitchen.  Trouble  with  Steam  Chest  and  Vegetables. 
Trouble  with  the  Oatmeal.  Building  a  House  with  Bread  Crusts.  Puddings  without  Eggs.  A 
A  Pastry  and  Store  Room  Necessary.  A  Board  on  a  Barrel.  First  Bill  of  Fare.  Trouble  with 
Sour  Meats.  Trouble  with  the  Ice  Cream.  The  Landlord's  Birthday  Supper.  Showing  ho-w 
rich  and  fancy  Cakes  -were  made  and  iced  and  ornamented  -without  using  Eggs.  The  Landlady's 
Birthday  Supper.  Trouble  in  Planning  Dinners.  Trouble  with  Captain  Johnson.  Trouble  in 
Serving  Meals.  Trouble  with  the  Manager.  Breakfasts  and  Suppers  for  Six  Cents  per  Plate. 
Hotel  Dinners  for  Ten  Cents  per  Plate.  Hotel  Dinners  for  Seventeen  Cents  per  Plate.  Supper 
for  Forty  for  Eight  Cents  per  Plate.  Breakfast  for  Forty  for  Nine  Cents  per  Plate.  An  Expensive 
Wedding  Breakfast,  for  the  Colonel  and  the  Banker's  Daughter.  Four  Thousand  Meals.  Review. 
Groceries  for  4,000.  Meat,  Fish  and  Poultry  for  4,000.  Flour,  Sugar  and  Coffee  for  4,000. 
Butter  and  Eggs  for  4,000.  Potatoes,  Fresh  Vegetables  and  Fruits  for  4,000.  Canned  Fruits  and 
Vegetables  for  4,000.  Milk  and  Cream  for  4,000.  Total  Cost  of  Provisions  for  4,000.  How  to 
Save  Twenty  Dollars  per  Week.  How  Much  we  Eat.  How  Much  we  Drink.  How  Much  to 
Serve.  Work  and  Wages.  Laundry  Work.  Fuel,  Light  and  Ice.  Total  Cost  of  Board.  How  Much 
Profit?  How  Many  Cooks  to  How  Many  People?  Boarding  the  Employees.  Boarding  Children. 
Meals  for  Ten  or  Fiften  Cents.  Country  Board  at  Five  Dollars.  If — a  Bundle  of  Suppositions. 
Keeping  Clean  Side  Towels.  How  Many  Fires— Again.  A  Proposal  to  Rent  for  next  Season. 
Conclusion. 

THE  CONTENTS  ALSO  INCLUDE: 

One  Hundred  Different  Bills  of  Fare,  of  Actual  Meals,  all  with  New  Dishes ;  the  Amount  and 
the  Cost  per  Head. 

Eleven  Hundred  Recipes.  All  live  matter  that  every  Cook  needs— both  by  Weight  and  by  Cup 
and  Spoon  Measure. 

A  Dictionary  of  Cookery,  Comprised  in  the  Explanations  of  Terms  and  General  Information  con- 
tained in  the  Directions. 

Artistic  Cookery.     Instructions   in  Ornamentation,   with  Illustrations,  and  Notes  on  the  London 
Cookery  Exhibition  of  1885. 
It  is  thoroughly  analytical,  practical,  readable,  and  the  first  book  of  the  principles  of  the  systematic  hotel-keeping. 

PRICE,   $3.00. 


WHO  CAN  BEAT  THIS? 


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This  exquisitely  beautiful  style  of  ornamental  work  in  white  icing  is  taught 
in  CObKING  FOR  PROFIT— in  the  ARTISTIC  COOKERY  department  of  that  book, 
and  in  no  other  book  in  the  world.  It  is  an  original  style;  the  whitest,  most  grace- 
ful, most  effective  for  a  banquet  table;  capable  of  endless  changes  of  design,  and 
not  restricted  as  to  size.  This  magnificent  specimen,  four  feet  in  height,  is  the 
trophy  of  a  first-class  workman.  Read  his  letter  on  the  following  page. 


Mr.  Collmar's  Letter  Accompanying  Photograph  of  Sugar   Work: 

PARKER  HOUSE,  NEW  BEDFORD,  MASS.,  March,  1889. 

MR.  JESSUP  WHITEHEAD. 

Dear  Sir: — Inclosed  I  send  you  $2  for  a  copy  of  your  "Hotel  Meat  Cooking" 
for  another  friend  of  mine.  Also  a  photograph  of  a  center  piece  of  sugar  icing 
work  which  I  did  in  your  style;  what  do  you  think  of  the  design?  I  used  it  at  the 
Board  of  Trade  banquet  here,  and  when  it  was  filled  up  with  small  cakes  and  sugar 
fruits  and  decorated  with  smilax,  it  was  much  admired.  The  lower  basket  was  15 
inches  in  diameter.  The  entire  piece  was  3  feet  10  inches  high.  I  made  the  frui* 
of  gum  paste  shaped  in  individual  ice  cream  moulds. 

Yours  Respectfully, 

CHRIS.  F.  COLLMAR, 

New  Bedford,  Mass. 
P.  S. — I  used  25  Ibs.  of  sugar  in  the  center  piece. 


"COOKING  FOR  PROFIT"  also  contains  equally  plain  instructions  for 
wax  and  mutton  fat  decorations  for  meat  dishes.  It  would  be  worth  more  than  its 
price  if  only  for  these  special  instructions;  but  besides  that,  it  is  the  most  useful, 
plain  and  practical  book  for  the  "all-round"  cook  who  works  up  to  a  bill  of  fare 
'that  ever  was  printed.  It  is  different  from  the  others  in  containing  both  meat  and 
pastry  work  in  the  one  book,  and  plenty  of  bill-of-fare  names.  Send  for  '•'•COOK- 
ING FOR  PROFIT."  Price,  $3.00.  The  second  edition  has  recently  been  printed, 
the  first  having  been  sold  out. 


The  Hotel  World,  of  Chicago,  has  been  publishing  THE  STEWARD'S 
HANDBOOK — the  first  part  of  it  only  and  not  the  Dictionary — serially  every 
week  for  more  than  forty  weeks,  and  is  to  be  credited  with  many  of  the  quoted  ar- 
ticles which  have  been  clipped  at  various  times  from  its  varied  pages  and  repro- 
duced in  the  book  where  they  will  be  permanently  useful.  The  Hotel  World,  pub- 
lished by  Messrs.  Bohn  &  Bro.,  is  a  good  paper  to  subscribe  for. 

J.  W. 


TX 

921 


WHITEHEAD'S 

Professional  Cookery  Books. 

No.  1.— THE   AMERICAN    PASTRY    COOK.    A 

book  of  perfected  Receipts,  for  making-  all 
sorts  of  articles  required  pt  the  Hotel  Pastry 
Cook,  Baker  and  Confectioner.  Seventh  edi- 
tion. Cloth,  $-2.00. 

No.  2.-HOTEL  MEAT  COOKING.  Comprising 
Hotel  and  Restaurant  Fish  and  Oyster  Cook- 
ing. How  to  Cut  Meats,  and  Soups,  Entrees 
and  Bills  of  Fare.  Sixth  edition.  Cloth  $2.00. 

No.  3.— WHITEHEAD'S  FAMILY  COOK  BOOK. 
High-class  cookery  for  families  and  party- 
givers,  including  Book  of  Breads  and  Cakes. 
Fourth  edition.  Cloth,  $1.50. 

No.  4.— COOKING  FOR  PROFITand  Eight  Weeks 
at  a  Summer  Resort.  A  new  American  Cook 
Book  adapted  for  the  use  of  all  who  serve  meals 
for  a  price.  Third  edition.  Cloth,  $3.00. 

No.  5.— THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK  and  Guide 
to  Party_  Catering,  Stewarding.  Bills  of  Fare, 
and  a  Dictionary  of  Dishes  and  <?ulinary  Terms 
and  Specialties.  'Clolb,  $3. 00. 


3   1205  00071    6488 


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A     000  577  764    4 


